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FAQs on Culturing Food Organisms: Techniques
Related Articles: Culturing
Food Organisms,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Reproduction, Marine
Ornamental Fish Culture, Mysids,
Related FAQs: Food Culture 1, Food
Culture 2, & FAQs on Marine Food Culture:
Rationale/Use, Sources (Info.,
Starters, Products, ...), Selection
of Culture Species, Tools/Materials,
Feeding Food Organisms, Culture
Pests, Predators,
Troubleshooting/Fixes, &
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 1,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 2,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 3, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
4, Frozen Foods,
Coral Feeding, Brine Shrimp, Algae
as Food, Vitamins, Nutritional
Disease, Coral Feeding,
Growing Reef Corals, | .JPG)
Like a miniature world... or aquarium (!), cultures must be attended
to in terms of populations, species, foods, wastes, dissolved
gasses...
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Producing 'Pods (Amphipod Propagation)
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Actually, Scott F. here this afternoon!>
My friend has a Mandarin
and we want to build a tank to breed worms and pods for her Mandarin. If
we do such a thing, can the worms and pods be transferred from my tank
to hers, or will they be too small?
<Well, they are not large
creatures, but they are captured without too much effort. Regardless of
their sizes, they will be beneficial to the fish that she's keeping!>
What would be the best way to harvest them for the Mandarin in the other
tank?
<You might want to use a fine mesh net to do some "sweeping"
of the bottom of the propagation tank. Even better still, if you could
somehow hook up the prop. tank to the display housing the Mandarin, then
the animals may very well be swept into the main tank with little or no
intervention required on your part. The concept of a refugium is based
upon this very need-having an attached system to help process organics
and "feed" the display!>
The plan is to use a 38 gallon tank with a
bag of live sand and some live rock and Caulerpa (sp?) algae.
How
important is the live rock to getting this going?
<A nice quality
live rock will be helpful, but you could certainly get by with some
"rubble"- small pieces of rock that will provide a nice place for the
'pods to forage. You may also want to use some Chaetomorpha macroalgae,
which has a rather dense composition, and forms a network of
hiding/feeding/breeding places for these animals>
Does it need to be
uncured to make sure there still are worms and pods on it? Would cured
rock have any left?
<Ideally, you'd want cured rock pieces; You can
usually convince the staff at your LFS to sell you some "rubble" from
the bottom of one of their live rock holding tanks. That will do the job
nicely and inexpensively.>
Could we seed the tank with like 15 pods
from mail
order and would that be enough to get the population
going?
<Sure. That would be a start. You may also want to see if a
fishy friend has some available-perhaps in some filter media or rock
pieces...>
How long would it take to get enough going to feed the
mandarin on a regular basis?
<Well, these animals have a fairly
rapid reproductive cycle, but you're probably talking a couple of months
before you could get a sustainable daily harvest>
What else would I
need to make the tank an optimal tank for worms and pods for mandarin
gobies?
<Really, not much else. Just make sure that you don't have
any fishes that will out-compete the slower Mandarins in their search
for these food items. With a lot of patience and attention to some
details concerning the "food production", you should have a very
successful setup!>
Thank you for your advice.
Brendgol Majewski
<My pleasure, Brendgol! Good luck in your efforts! Regards, Scott F.>
Dosing phyto/zoo plankton, culture
Hello all,
<Howdy>
I
looked down the other day and realized how much I'm spending on DTs.
Ouch. I dose my 400 gal reef per their recommended schedule. I am using
it for my filter feeders - feather dusters, various soft corals. I also
target feed the frozen Cyclop-eeze to my LPS weekly.
<Sounds good....
with a system this size... oh I see this below>
I am once again
thinking about culturing my own. I looked at the Aqualine Buschke
Plankton Light Reactor and Plankton Reactor system, the DIY culture
stations (see
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/ds/ for one description),
and came across a Zinn Reactor (http://www.reefonline.com.au/shop/product_info.php?products_id=234).
The Zinn Reactor seems like the easiest and most painless of the
solutions, but I can't find any real information about it. Do you have
any thoughts on the different solutions. Is culturing your own such a
pain that buying the DTs seems like a bargain after trying? Other
thoughts for me?
<Is actually... easily done... and a hoot to boot!>
Coral List:
Capnella, Cladiella, Pachyclavularia, Sarcophyton,
Sarcophyton elegans, Euphyllia paradivisa, Euphyllia paranchora,
Caulastrea, Fungia, Polyphyllia, Turbinaria peltata. May add over time -
Clavularia, Anthelia, Platygyra, Trachyphyllia geoffroyi.
Thanks!
Larry
<I definitely encourage you to try your hand at culture here...
I've done this (and am exceedingly lazy...), can be "cook booked" and if
you follow simple procedures (principally to avoid contamination) you'll
soon be a plankton culturist! Bob Fenner>
Phytoplankton culture and culture density measurement 7/7/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
I would like to say thank you in advance for
your time. I have a few questions with regards to culturing
phytoplankton. The purpose is for a small look at invertebrate larvae
nutrition requirements. My primary reference is Dr. Toonen's 1996 "Home
Breeder's FAQ for Marine Invertebrates". I am not a "real scientist" I
originally only wanted to set up a nano-reef, but I got sidetracked
while reading.
<Sounds good>
In establishing my culture, I'm
planning to use local natural seawater (I'm on the coast of NC) that I
will pasteurize. I am also planning to use the commercial Micro-Algae
Grow formula as my nutrient. The phytoplankton cultured will be fed to
invertebrate larvae (species as yet undetermined) that are maturing in
aerated flasks (also pasteurized NSW, but no other nutrients added).
Larvae growth will be measured by optical microscopy.
1. In order to
determine if the larvae are feeding, I need to know the density of algae
in culture at different points in time following feeding. I can do this
by making cell counts, however: A Sedgewick-Rafter counting cell seems
too large (1mL volume) for the densities recommended, even a Palmer
counting cell (.1mL volume) seems excessive. There are gridded
Sedgewick-Rafter cells available, including one from Aquatic Eco-Systems
that is reasonably priced. Can I responsibly use a gridded cell?
<Yes, I have used these>
Or, because I cannot ensure an even
distribution of plankton across the grid is this a bad idea?
<Will
be able to get enough distribution that by randomly counting a number of
cells, you should be able to get good approximations>
2. Even
allowing for a gridded cell, a microscopic cell count will take time. I
know from your site and others, that it is not possible to get an
accurate density measurement solely by eying the coloration of the
culture, but I got the impression that this had to do with "eyeballing"
the culture. I have the opportunity to pick up a used spectrophotometer
cheap... If I measure take the absorption at x nm* for different
densities of algae, wouldn't I get a reasonably accurate count of algae
density?
<Yes... a simpler device, a colorimeter (one set wavelength
of light for absorption/transmission) will/would even work here. You
can/should develop your own "curve" for density (counted) versus
readings with this tool>
*-where x would be determined by trial and
error 3. This is the worst question I guess, and if you tell me to keep
searching I understand: I find it's easy to get life cycle information
(when it exists) for a species when you already know it's name, etc. But
I have not found a database of larval stage characteristics of
ornamental invertebrates. Could you recommend a test subject? Ideally it
would be: a. cheap and common, b. externally fertilizing, c. easy to
induce gamete release, d. has a planktotrophic larvae phase that lasts
less than 2 weeks.
<There is much known re "close" invertebrate
species, but this takes a bit of familiarity, practice in "searching the
literature"... I strongly encourage your visiting a large college
library (of a school with a Bio./Zoology dept.), and having a Reference
Librarian "show you the ropes"... Computer search bibliographies are
very productive here... and a lot of fun... "Time whips by"...>
Part
d. is the hard one to search for.
<Not too difficult as you will
find>
Again, thank you for your time. Your site is an incredible
resource.
-Tony
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>
Culturing bacteria as food 5/15/07
Hi Bob!
<Peter>
I'm an avid troller of WWM, and it has been an endless resource for
me!
Great job by you and the team helping everyone out!
<A
pleasure to serve, share>
I've been wondering; with the advent
of many techniques for culturing phytoplankton and zooplankton for
the feeding of our charges, why I haven't read anything regarding
the culturing of nanoplankton.
<Mmm, at the hobbyist, commercial
level... only a matter of time... perhaps now!>
Would it not be
theoretically possible (I've yet to try this myself) to use
solutions containing ammonium bicarbonate, acetic acid, phosphoric
acid and simple sugars for the culturing of microfungi and bacteria
for the express purpose of sustaining filter feeding cnidarians,
ascidians, echinoderms and annelid worms (and any other possible
bacteriovores I may have missed)?
<Is possible... can be done>
Has this, or something similar, already been attempted?
<In
public aquarium, experimental institution levels, yes>
How would
one go about priming such a culture and maintaining it?
<Could
likely start such from a filtered sample of simple seawater...
natural or otherwise from an established system. In the presence of
extra nutrient, a lack of predators...>
Perhaps with a live
rock/live sand base?
<Yes>
How would one determine the
correct feeding amounts?
<Through experimentation, measuring one
of the simpler components likely that a simple test kit can be used
for... amending your "mix" of feeder stock to replenish...>
Would you dose this into your main viewing tank using a drip method
or a peristaltic pump?
<Either one, or even regular measuring,
and just pouring in an aliquot>
Your thoughts would be greatly
appreciated.
-Peter
<Mmm, I do encourage you to read this
book by Frank Hoff (here on Amazon):
http://www.amazon.com/Plankton-Culture-Manual-Frank-Hoff/dp/0966296001/ref=sr_1_1/103-2945648-4573462?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1179246216&sr=1-1
for input re gear, procedures...>
P.S. Have your book, and hands
down one of the best aquarium reads *ever*.
Thanks for the
contribution(s)!!
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words...
and engaging prospective project! Bob Fenner> Re: culturing
bacteria as food 5/16/07
Hi Bob,
<Peter>
Thanks for the rapid response. I will definitely look
into that reading material... I did find an interesting publication
worth reading for those who might wish to attempt something similar
as well.
http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_45/issue_4/0789.pdf
<Yes>
I was actually mulling it over after I sent my last e-mail; I was
trying to picture what a semi-self sustaining culture setup might
look like.
Assuming that the majority of bacteria we could
culture fit the 100:8:0.25 CNP ratio, where any present O2 was
simply fuel for reactions (as in the acetate ion portion of
dissociated acetic acid), and that we can provide that ratio closely
using common, affordable chemicals (much as I mentioned),
<Can>
would we need to provide any additional basic nutrients?
<Yes...
Bergey's publications is my favorite in-print resource here... but
something in the way of a complete "feeder stock" solution will have
to be provided>
Do you need enzymatic or proteinaceous material
to help bacteria replicate or are basic building blocks sufficient
in their case...
<These can be provided in a few ways, but are a
very good idea to add on an ongoing basis, yes>
I remember
growing prokaryotes
in a test tube in school using glucose, acid
and protein... the last being the clincher, but then again that was
from scratch (creationists *need* to see this happen).
<Heeeeeee! Perhaps all, even "evolutionists", would be
enlightened...>
Would you recycle skimmer output for its organic
material for bacteria "food"?
<Mmm, no... too much vacillation
here in terms of make-up, non-useful materials... Better/best by far
to keep your/ones culture material/system axenic:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axenic>
So regardless of the
inputs, I imagine that at some point in the cultures life cycle,
there would be sufficient new bacteria being "born" to consume all
input into the system.
<Yes... in a growing, going culture for
sure>
A 10-gallon tank, a rather large fluidized bed filter as a
substrate
<Worth trying, but I'd opt for a simpler sponge
type... air or fluid-moving pump driven>
maybe filtering
directly back into the 10-gallon, along with a DSB and live rock was
my main construction idea.
<Mmm, again, worth trying>
If the
culture can reach a growth equilibrium with the inputs, than
regardless of those inputs' relative toxicity to our standard
charges there should be no problem in overflowing this system in the
main display/fuge for feeding purposes. (i.e. if there is no longer
any detectable level of NH4+ then can one assume that it is all
being consumed by ever growing and dying bacteria?)
<Should be
fine, if not "too much, too soon" material added>
Can bacteria
be thought of us as being heterotrophic?
<Some definitely are...
though most folks consider them to be exclusively either chemo- or
autotrophs>
Is there any benefit to lighting the culture?
<Mmm, maybe...>
Does dying bacteria count towards the load on a
system?
<Yes... depending on what one's counting... like BOD,
total nutritive value...>
If we feed X amount of bacteria laden
water into a main system, where only Y is being consumed, is the
balance "pollution" ?
<Yes, likely so to a degree>
What I am
hoping to discover is that our standard charges are not only
bacteria hungry (ala ascidians), but also not picky eaters insofar
as species of bacteria.
<Some are known to be more so than
others... there are many size/gradients, chemical and physical
properties of this biota, as well as differential "palatability"...
as you'll soon come to understand>
Believe it or not, this all
began with an absolute obsession of successfully maintaining
Polycarpa aurata...
<Ahhh! I do hope to dive with you someday...
where this species is common, gorgeous... Am attaching a fave pic
here, with Atriolum mixed in>
Thanks again,
Peter
<Cheers, Bob Fenner> |
Continuous rotifer drips 5/21/07
I am working on a
continuous rotifer drip that recirculates. I have an approximately
seven gallon salt bucket at the same height as the reef aquarium,
and using an Aqualifter (Tom brand) pump to pump from the reef to
the bucket, which overflows about 1/3 of the culture into the
reef. I am culturing Nanochloropsis oculata in freshwater using
tapwater- it's very easy to do this way for me- and I've learned
that using only live algae, and waiting until the culture is
completely clear before feeding again, are crucial to maintaining
water quality in a continuous culture.
<A good note/point>
The overflow is 1 inch tubing, and I've passed airline tubing
through it and connected this to a rigid tube that goes to the
bottom, so the overflow essentially comes from the bottom; the
culture is self cleaning.
The problem I'm having is
getting the rotifers to adapt to pH 8.5 and SG 1.025.
<Mmm,
won't do so if cultured in FW>
I am using Brachionus
rotundiformis as I think they will tolerate the higher temps and
maybe are more salinity tolerant.
<Yes... this one is
euryhaline:
http://www.lib.noaa.gov/korea/korean_aquaculture/zooplanktonic.htm
But should be slowly adapted to culture water conditions before
introduction if you expect for it/them to live for any period of
time>
So far I have not used a UV on the intake, being happy
with whatever else grows so far.
<Mmmmm>
I may be
successful just doing what I'm doing- and waiting for the rotifers
to adapt. But, do you have any experience with a continuous drip
like this, or know of any successful long term rotifer drips?
Many thanks
Charles Matthews
<Well... the Nanochloropsis can
be cultured in FW as you state, but I would take care to raise the
salt content on the Brachionus... easier to care for the latter in
more saline conditions... and to use (I take it for marine
aquaculture in turn) as a feed stock as such. I would take more care
in keeping the cultures free of other life... Bob Fenner>
Re: continuous rotifer drips 5/21/07
Hi Bob
<Charles,
oh Chip!>
An honor to get a reply from you, and
thanks. Regarding my post, to clarify, I meant that I was going to
culture the algae in freshwater, and use this to feed the rotifers
cultured at full strength seawater. Thanks for your thoughts and
will keep a watch on needing the UV
Chip
<Welcome... Again,
I would try "mediating" the spg twixt the Nanochloropsis culture
media and that of the Brachionus... Bob Fenner> |
Copepod Production 5/9/08
Hi,
<Hello>
I have a 55 gal
reef with 75 lbs of live rock that has been set up for nearly 1 yr. At
first I started with a primitive filter system (a
BioWheel and very
cheap skimmer) while it was difficult to keep my nitrates low, I had
tons of copepods. I have upgraded to a sump (sorry don't know how many
gallons) a refugium (with 3" of miracle mud, live rock rubble, and macro
algae) and a better quality protein skimmer. My nitrates have
consistently stayed at zero for over 6 months, but I never see any
copepods.
<Being eaten?>
I even try to look past the macro algae
in the refugium and I never see anything there either. I've seeded the
refugium several times with copepods, but I never see the population
increase. What can I do to increase the pod population. I am asking
because I want to eventually keep a Mandarin Dragonet, but want to make
sure that I can supply his needs by increasing the pod population in my
display tank and by culturing them in a stand alone.
Many thanks for
your assistance.
<You're welcome and do read here and related
FAQ's/articles below text.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i1/Pods/pods.htm
James
(Salty Dog)>
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