Re: Emergency! chipped corner, PROBLEM WITH NEW TANK   9/19/08 Mr. Fenner, I can't believe I'm writing you again, I'm trying not to cry. We did get a new tank, taller than our old one. We got it set up and moved all the rocks and livestock in it the night before last, though we were short about twenty gallons and ran the system not fully filled. Last night we added the rest of the water. This morning, I see some kind of bubble (I guess) on the corner, somewhere between halfway and two thirds up from the bottom. I am positive that it was not there before. I had noticed something a little funky in that spot, but I thought it was just a little excess sealant on the outside, the actual seal between the two panes looked completely fine to me. (I know we're supposed to fill a new tank and observe for leaks before adding livestock, but time and manpower was an issue; a big mistake, I know). I've already drained the water down to about where the "bubble" is (is that sufficient?), and have powerheads running in the tank with the rocks and livestock. <Mmm, see below> I don't really understand what I'm seeing. It looks like the problem is not in the seam per se, but on the side edge of the front panel. I'm attaching three pics. The first one is taken looking at it directly from the front. The second one is looking at it from the side (at kind of a funny angle so the light would get it right). The third is taken from the front, looking at it diagonally. I think I know what you are going to say. (That we have to drain all the water, put it all and the rock and livestock into countless bins with powerheads; take this tank back to the store, get our friend to help us again move this tank and another new one, fill it in the garage first with fresh water, observe it for a day, then drain it, move it into the house and set it up...the thought of all this makes me want to have a nervous breakdown... Go ahead, Mr. Fenner, put "the fear of Bob" onto me... Elise <Actually, this defect is not likely problematical at all. If this tank were mine, I'd go ahead and leave it set up. Though the one "whitish" seam is not "all that great" (there was a bit too much gap twixt the panels when Silastic was applied), this vacuolation won't likely lead to failure. Bob Fenner>

Re: Emergency! chipped corner, PROBLEM WITH NEW TANK   9/19/08 Really??? Holy cow, I can't describe how happy you just made me. I shouldn't be alarmed, then, that this "thing" appeared after the tank was full, and was definitely not there before? <Mmm, no, or at least "not very"... such bubbles are quite common... Unless the tank has "just been made" (in the last days, week...) they're not problematical unless too large (spanning the joint let's say)> Thanks, thanks, thanks so much and thanks for the very speedy response! What, are you sitting at your computer waiting for me to write you with all my problems? Tee-hee! Elise <May seem so. Usually I "wait" till next day, try to respond to what others here have not done so, so that I learn content, format... but folks who are apparently in distress, I will "jump ahead" on. BobF>

Issue or not? My new 240 has mystery bubble/chip in glass Pics included  8/19/08 Hi crew, So I got this tank setup a couple of weeks ago. I had it built in Early July, picked up on the 10th or so of July. Filled it up on August 6 I believe. There is a photo before where it doesn't show the bubble and now where you can and some close up shots. It is on the inside of the tank as if there was a chip on the side that was not noticed when dry. Now that there is water in it, it has shown up. I can not feel it from the inside of the tank when pressing on the sealant. What should I do? Have you guys seen this before? <The bubbling does show up over time at times... either from forces "pulling" the gas into larger view/size, sometimes from microbial involvement (metabolism). I would do nothing re it. The chip here is worrisome... something struck inward of this panel at an obtuse angle... If you live in an area where the ground shakes, I would take this tank down, Silicone a panel of glass of some size over this area on the outside of the tank, turns this panel to the wall. (Use the other side as the front). Bob Fenner>

Resealing Used 55 07/28/2008
WWM Crew:
I bought a used 55 gallon that I found to have a leak. I've been all over the WWM site, and already know what needs to be done. This tank is a work in progress since I will not be putting it up until our next military move at the end of 2009. I have time. However, I have been told by two hobbyists that I cannot reseal unless I plan on having water in the tank within a year's time.
<... incorrect>
They are saying that I will have to reseal and that I have been lucky to have dry tanks usable after 2 years.
<... No>
I have been using Google and checking this site today, I haven't found anything to substantiate this claim yet.
<There is no such substantiation. They're wrong>
If this is indeed the case, then I can wait several months before messing with it. If not, is there an interesting historical tale I can run back and relate to these hobbyists?
<Am feeling so old today that I'll consider myself as such... have them contact me, or Dow Corning re Silastic applications if they're so inclined... Now, back to work in the real world to generate GDP. BobF>
Thank You,
Becky C

Bonding Acrylic to Glass 7/17/08
HI there,
<Hello.>
Hope you’re having a good day. I wanted to know what’s the best thing to glue acrylic to glass? I have a glass aquarium and I want to build external coast-to-coast on it using acrylic. Can you please help me?
<You could use a two part epoxy gel such as 5 min epoxy, although I would not. For an external overflow do consider using glass and silicone, this will make a much more reliable bond to keep water off your floor!>
Thanks
Ghazni
<Welcome, Scott V.>

125 gallon glass aquarium, sealant good?  06/24/2008
Hello to all!
<<Morning, Andrew today>>
Sorry for the first message, somehow I managed to send it with just a few words!
<<its fine, we are here now>>
I have a question regarding a used 125 gallon aquarium that I just purchased. I got it at a steal and was just wondering what kinds of things I should look at as far as signs of silicone failure. The tank is different from what I am used to seeing. It is 1/2" glass with a 3/8" glass brace in the center on top. The trim is wood grain but instead of being flat like most, it tapers as it goes down the side. I am trying to figure out what brand this thing is. The only sticker I can find on it has FM which is bold lettering, like a stamp then it has the date, May 30, 1999 and a serial number...Maybe someone is familiar? Thanks for your time and keep up the good work on the site.
<<Not a tank make i am familiar with, unless its referring to "Fauna Marin". As to your questions on what to look for. Look for browning silicone, splits and lifting, bubbles between the glass joints are indicative of poor silicon and bad joints. The main thing i look for to start with, is browning silicon. Please do read more here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqrepairfaqs.htm including linked articles and FAQ's >>
Jacob
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

125 gal tank about to pop?   6/12/08
Hi, I have a 125 gal tank, no idea how old it is. We bought it used. I would guess around 10 yrs or so. Anyway we just set it up about a week ago. I noticed after we added water all the way to the top that the front panel on the right looked as if it was pulling away from the panel on the side.
<!?>
On the left side the silicon is clear and has no air bubbles in it. On the right it has large air bubbles and is cloudy looking. So far there is no leak, but we did drop the water level to half for now. The tank houses 2 4 inch sliders and several feeder fish. I think the turtles will be fine for know, but I am unsure how to fix the problem.
<... posted>
Do I need to empty the tank and completely take it apart and put it back together?
<One approach... however... IF the tank is holding together, and you're happy/satisfied with it partly filled...>
And how on earth would I go about doing that? Or could I just empty it and take the silicone off the inside of that corner and replace it, and try to push some into the gap were it is pulling away? Would it stand any chance of holding? I have to say I am very worried, as I would not like a pond in my living room. Please any help is greatly appreciated.
<Here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm
about the sixth tray down... Aquarium Repair... Bob Fenner>

Re: 125 gal tank about to pop? 6/12/08
Hi, me again. I looked at all the stories there,
<Stories?>
but was unable to find one that answered my specific questions. I would like to have a full tank as my sliders really like the space.
<... need room to get out of the water as well...>
But I am not sure about the seam. Can I empty the tank, scrape off all the corner silicone and clean out silicone between the 2 panels on just that side?
<Nope>
If so how far down and how to reseal the new silicone to the bottom old silicone? Could I reseal by pushing new silicone in between the panels and then reseal the corner inside? Or do I need to take all the inside silicone off and the side that has pulled away and start from there? Will it hold? Please help!! Thank you>
<Read those stories again... IF you decide to re-silicone this tank, all panels will need to be disassembled... it will do no good to just Silicone in the corners... this material is almost non-functional structurally. BobF>

Tank Building Beginner 3/22/08
Hi all,
<Hi Brian.>
I've read a lot on your site, and it is pretty informative! Great Job and thank you!
<Thank you, we are happy you find it of good use!>
I want to build a tank 48x18x15. I have never built a tank before and I have lots of questions I am having trouble answering. I'll itemize then for you:
1.) I have several 1/4" plates from an old store front, 54x45, it's clean with no major scratches. Is this suitable for building a tank?
<Technically, yes. I would opt to go a bit thicker for a DIY project of this size. Overbuilding is one advantage of doing it yourself.>
2.) If there is a small bubble (size of a pinhole) in the glass is it no good?
<This can be fine, but do keep in mind that the ¼” glass is already at the bare minimum for this project strength wise.>
3.) Is there a difference between 100% silicone and 100% RTV Silicone?
<There is not a difference so long as the RTV has no other additives, some do some don’t.>
4.) Are all 100% silicone's created equal, or do you have a suggestion on a brand or something to look for?
<100% is 100%. Do be aware that some are not 100% silicone, they contain mildewcides and other additives to prevent mold growth. Stay away from these.>
5.) Is there an difference between 100% silicone and Aquarium Sealant, beyond the packaging?
<Nope.>
6.) How perfect do the cuts in the glass need to be for success?
<Fairly straight and square.>
I've been practicing cutting, and find that there is occasionally a slight taper in the edge, or minor rippling along the cut, it that no good?
<This is not good, especially when you consider only a ¼” bonding area. You want a good glass to glass fit with a minimal amount of silicone between the pieces. The silicone should not be used as a gap filler.>
Well I think that’s a start, and thank you for your help guys!
Cheers,
Ben O'Brien
Maine
<Welcome, Scott V., central California.>

Tank Compromised? Seal...   2/22/08 Hi! <Hello there> I'm happy that I stumbled across your website. I'm just getting into marine aquaria and it has answered numerous questions that I have had and, I'm sure, will answer countless more in the future. <Sounds good> On to the issue at hand. My initial purchase was from an associate who had a reef aquarium set up. He is moving and cannot bring it along. The purchase was for an all-glass 72 gallon bow front (non-drilled) aquarium along with the stand, a nice light set, a protein skimmer, a wet/dry sump, numerous pumps blah, blah, blah... He bought the set up new but I'm not sure how long ago. Basically, I got the entire package for $400. He informed me that the silicone seals in the tank were turning color (possibly from oxidation) <Mmmm> and some of the seals may need to be re-siliconed (pictures attached). <I see them> It does, however, hold water. I still purchased the set up simply because the other stuff that was included in the package was well worth the $400 even if I have to purchase a new tank. <Okay> So anyway, after a closer look at the seams in the tank I noticed that the front left seam toward the bottom was actually turning white (the initial color of the silicone was black). I reached into the tank to feel the silicone and it was somewhat brittle as expected. <Yes...> After reading much of the information on WWM about resealing/repairing tanks I took a razor blade and carefully removed the silicone that is on the inside of the glass (not between the glass joints). For the most part the silicone that is between the glass joints looks intact (I'm assuming that it should be approximately the same thickness as the glass that it is sealing) except for the front left corner near the bottom. That seal still looks white. I am concerned about this because I wouldn't want to get the system up and running and spring a leak a week later. <I agree with, share this concern> So, would I be correct in assuming that I need to reseal the tank? (genius, I know...) Also, I have read different accounts about resealing tanks (or maybe I have simply misinterpreted what I've read). It appears as if in some cases the silicone that is inside the tank, but not directly between the joints, can be carefully removed and replaced provided the seam between the actual glass panels is left unharmed. In other cases I see that a single panel can be removed and resealed. Then there are the accounts of taking the entire tank down, removing all of the silicone and replacing all of the panels with new seals. <Mmmm, well... the Silastic "not between the glass" is actually mostly non-functional in terms of holding the panels together (this is done almost completely by the small amount between the panels... The bit in the corners is really there basically to keep tools from getting into the real seal...> I'm thinking that since the silicone issue in the front left bottom part of the tank is so extensive I'll have to repair that but I'm not sure about the rest of the tank and the rest of the seams. <... Not realistic... If taking the one panel apart, the rest should be done... and IS a job for sure...> Also, I have seen other tanks with the black silicone that also have the issue where the silicone turns yellow/white. Is this common with the black silicone or does it happen to all silicone and the contrast to the original black color makes it so noticeable? <Does happen with some "batches" of Silastic... but not all. I have some European made units (most lack the "extra" corner beads entirely) and they are fine after decades of use...> Anyway, thanks for any help/info that you can suggest. Dave <Basically three choices, go with the tank as it is now (not advised), try to fix by taking apart and re-sealing (much time, lots of single-edged razor blades), or seek out, buy a new tank/replacement (which is what I would do), leaving this old one to turn into a paludarium, some other not-totally water filled function... Up to you. Bob Fenner>

Fish Tank Sealant Question 1/12/08
Hi!
<Etta>
I have looked through your site and have not found an answer to my question. I need to seal one of my 10G fresh water fish tanks. I had mice in it and now want to convert it back to have fish in it. The only problem is they have chewed the bottom corners of the sealant and it needs to be replaced. I just wanted to know the difference between a regular 100% white silicon sealant or regular clear 100% fish tank sealant and what to use. I have some regular hanging around the house but wanted to know if it would kill my fish before I use it.
<100% silicone is all you need. Just be sure it is truly 100%, no mildewcides and the such. The white can work if it is 100% silicone, but it will be kind of unsightly.>
Thank you! Please reply.
-Etta
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Custom frameless tank   1/11/08
Hi,
<Sandy>
I just purchased a custom size frameless 125 gallon tank from Lee-Mar. When I received the tank there were numerous air bubbles in the silicone there the panels are joined, I don't mean just little bubbles, I mean large areas that look like a worm crawled though the sealant. They are on all the seams, side, and bottom. The tank was built using ¾ inch Starfire glass and I am concerned with the tanks ability to "stand the test of time". Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Sandy
<Very unusual to hear/read of such apparently sloppy workmanship by Lee Mar... I have known the old owner and now his sons who run the company for decades... and usually the company's craftsmanship is superb. I would take some digital pix and send them to the management... And to me/us as well... IF these vacuolations are not too numerous, nor too interconnected, there should be no problem going forward... Bob Fenner>

Re: Custom frameless tank 1/12/2008
Thank you so much for your assistance! We did get a hold of Lee-Mar yesterday, and they, as you, seemed to be surprised that this tank passed quality control, based on the photo's and descriptions of the tank.
<Ah, excellent>
They are going to take the tank apart and re-do it. Your prompt response and advice was much appreciated. I look forward to a new tank and visiting your site often. Sandy Moats
<Thank you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>