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FAQs on Marine Water Quality involving Phosphates, Science
Related Articles:
Phosphates in Marine Aquarium Systems by Marco Lichtenberger,
Phosphates in Carbon; An analysis of the phosphate content of
activated Carbon by Steven Pro,
Ammonia, Nitrates,
Nitrites, Silicates, Marine
Chemical Filtrants,
Related FAQs: Phosphates 1,
Phosphates 2, & FAQs on Phosphate:
Importance, Measure,
Sources, Control,
Chemical Filtrants,
Troubleshooting/Fixing, &
Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia,
Silicates, Avoiding Algae
Problems in Marine System,
Nutrient Control and Export,
Algae Control,
Marine Maintenance, Alkalinity, Chemical
Filtrants, Understand what you're
doing before trying to "do it"... | .JPG)
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Phosphate question 3/10/06 Hi all. I have been
reading about phosphates at wetwebmedia.com. One of the suggested ways
to reduce phosphates is to : "Raising pH like with Kalkwasser... to
8.4-8.5 to precipitate out the phosphates for good." <Can be
employed, yes> Now, I have very high phosphates (off scale with
Salifert test kit) but I wanted to test your suggestion. I took a water
sample (about 40 mL), starting pH was 8.15 and added 1 drop of 1.0 M
NaOH. <I would not use sodium hydroxide (except to clean dirty
ovens)> the pH raised to about 8.75. Maybe there were a couple of
small crystals formed, but no major precipitation. I tested the water
and the phosphates are at about the same level. I them lowered the pH
back to 8.08 by adding 0.02 M HCl, retested and got the same results.
Questions: 1) Have you done this and have it work in a tank?
<Have not used the chemicals listed... well, have used Hydrochloric in
other applications. The reference refers to Kalk...> 2) What is the
insoluble phosphate species that is supposed to form? <Calcium
phosphate [Ca3(PO4)2].> 3) Wouldn't this be a reversible process?
<All processes are reversible... but the energetics, chemical species in
a marine aquarium discount this> 4) Is the precipitation supposed to
be a slow process (i.e. hours?) <Nope... almost instantaneous>
Thanks for your time. R., Romero <Please try the Kalk, Calcium
Hydroxide... Bob Fenner> Re: Phosphate question Thank you -
03/11/2006 I was trying to do the experiments with reagents I
have prepared in the lab. I will prepare some saturated Kalk and try to
repeat this. In the interest of science, I may try it next time I also
do a water change on the 'old' water, before I attempt the live
tank. Thanks for your time Romulo <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Phosguard and SPS coral - 5/18/2006 Hey everyone,
<Hello Marc> Just a question about some information I received from
a local LFS. The guy told me that the continued use of Phosguard (by
SeaChem) will slow the rate of growth of my SPS corals. Have you heard
this before or had any experience with it and have you found any other
'chemical' absorption media or the like that can be an issue with
corals??? <Marc, the SeaChem Phosguard is aluminum based and
extended use can release potentially toxic aluminum into your
tank. There are phosphate removing products that are not aluminum based
and safe to use. One such product is ROWA phos.> Thanks <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Marc
RO I have
high phosphate in my tap water--0.1ppm--so I bought a GE brand reverse
osmosis unit. This RO water still contains about the same amount of
phosphate, so I installed a Kent post DI canister. The water output
after the DI still contains 0.1ppm of phosphate according to my test
kit. Any thoughts? <although such water purifiers do not guarantee to
remove all inorganic/organic phosphate... do consider that your
colorimetric test kit is unable to read below .1ppm accurately. Such
hobby grade kits really are poor quality. Still useful though. Have you
tried to test the effluent of your RO (the reject water) to confirm that
a higher level of phosphate exists there? It should... else more reason
to suspect the test kit is inaccurate or unable to read. Do try other
test kits for comparison. Kindly, Anthony> Phosphate Blues...
I recently moved to small rural community in Indiana, into a temporary
rental house with corn and soybean fields surrounding it. Not
surprisingly, after (Early-Oct) I set-up a small (30g) reef tank with
our well water, I began to have algae problems of a magnitude never
experienced living in the San Diego and Denver areas. Initially, I had
tested well-water for NH4/NO2/NO3 with no significant result. Today I
finally received PO test kit, full-scale 10ppm with well/+5ppm with
"city water" available in town. No wonder my 20% weekly water changes
were ineffective. Yikes! Yep, all you were doing with those water
changes was re-supplying the algae with food!> I am using a TetraTec
300 and Eheim 2213 with lots of Carbon, also a Prism hang-on (OK, I
didn't read up much before tank set-up), and undergravels with sweeper
heads ( Ditto, should I ditch the undergravel & powerheads?) <I am
not a fan of undergravel filters in most situations> 20lbs of good
Fiji LR, just 4 small Damsels, 4 medium hermits. Can I use a remote
holding tank (Rubbermaid 22G) and economically remove phosphate from
water using Poly Filter (12.00ea) in a small hang-on? <Polyfilters
can remove quite a bit of phosphate from source water. I love them!
However, I think that you'll need to take more aggressive means to
eliminate it for the long run...> My alternative is =1.00$ per gallon
DI or distilled from the local drinking service at $1.00 gal. Randy R.
<Well, in the long run, I'd recommend an R/O unit for purifying your
makeup water source. I realize that it's expensive, but when you
consider that Polyfilters need to be replaced after they are exhausted
(which varies, depending on how much they are able to absorb in a given
period of time), the R/O is the better way to go in the long run, IMO.
Yep- the initial cost is greater, but over time I think it will pay for
itself.> P.S. I don't want to waste your resources on more important
questions, I can contact the manufacturer, but I thought you might be
able to give me an expedient answer. <Please don't hesitate to
contact us if you need assistance, okay? Regards, Scott F.>
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