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FAQs on Marine Water Quality involving Phosphates,
Science
Related Articles:
Phosphates
in Marine Aquarium Systems by Marco Lichtenberger,
Ammonia,
Nitrates, Nitrites,
Silicates, Marine Chemical Filtrants,
Related FAQs: Phosphates 1, Phosphates 2,
& FAQs on Phosphate: Importance,
Measure,
Sources,
Control, Chemical Filtrants,
Troubleshooting/Fixing,
& Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia,
Silicates, Avoiding
Algae Problems in Marine System,
Nutrient Control and Export,
Algae Control, Marine
Maintenance, Alkalinity, Chemical
Filtrants,
Understand what you're doing before trying to "do
it"...
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Phosphate question 3/10/06
Hi all. I have been reading about phosphates at wetwebmedia.com. One of
the
suggested ways to reduce phosphates is to : "Raising pH like with Kalkwasser...
to 8.4-8.5 to precipitate out the phosphates for good."
<Can be employed, yes>
Now, I have very high phosphates (off scale with Salifert test kit) but I wanted
to test your suggestion. I took a water sample (about 40 mL), starting pH was
8.15 and added 1 drop of 1.0 M NaOH.
<I would not use sodium hydroxide (except to clean dirty ovens)>
the pH raised to about 8.75. Maybe there
were a couple of small crystals formed, but no major precipitation. I tested
the water and the phosphates are at about the same level. I them lowered the pH
back to 8.08 by adding 0.02 M HCl, retested and got the same results.
Questions:
1) Have you done this and have it work in a tank?
<Have not used the chemicals listed... well, have used Hydrochloric in other
applications. The reference refers to Kalk...>
2) What is the insoluble phosphate species that is supposed to form?
<Calcium phosphate [Ca3(PO4)2].>
3) Wouldn't this be a reversible process?
<All processes are reversible... but the energetics, chemical species in a
marine aquarium discount this>
4) Is the precipitation supposed to be a slow process (i.e. hours?)
<Nope... almost instantaneous>
Thanks for your time.
R., Romero
<Please try the Kalk, Calcium Hydroxide... Bob Fenner>
Re: Phosphate question Thank you - 03/11/2006
I was trying to do the experiments with reagents I have prepared in the
lab. I will prepare some saturated Kalk and try to repeat this. In the
interest of science, I may try it next time I also do a water change on the
'old' water, before I attempt the live tank. Thanks for your time
Romulo
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Phosguard and SPS coral - 5/18/2006
Hey everyone,
<Hello Marc>
Just a question about some information I received from a local LFS. The guy told
me that the continued use of Phosguard (by SeaChem) will slow the rate of growth
of my SPS corals. Have you heard this before or had any experience with it and
have you found any other 'chemical' absorption media or the like that can be an
issue with corals???
<Marc, the SeaChem Phosguard is aluminum based and extended use can release
potentially toxic aluminum into your tank. There are phosphate removing
products that are not aluminum based and safe to use. One such product is ROWA
phos.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Marc
RO
I have high phosphate in my tap water--0.1ppm--so I bought a GE brand reverse
osmosis unit. This RO water still contains about the same amount of phosphate,
so I installed a Kent post DI canister. The water output after the DI still
contains 0.1ppm of phosphate according to my test kit. Any thoughts?
<although such water purifiers do not guarantee to remove all
inorganic/organic phosphate... do consider that your colorimetric test kit is
unable to read below .1ppm accurately. Such hobby grade kits really are poor
quality. Still useful though. Have you tried to test the effluent of your RO
(the reject water) to confirm that a higher level of phosphate exists there? It
should... else more reason to suspect the test kit is inaccurate or unable to
read. Do try other test kits for comparison. Kindly, Anthony>
Phosphate Blues...
I recently moved to small rural community in Indiana, into a temporary rental
house with corn and soybean fields surrounding it. Not surprisingly, after
(Early-Oct) I set-up a small (30g) reef tank with our well water, I began to
have algae problems of a magnitude never experienced living in
the San Diego and Denver areas. Initially, I had tested well-water
for NH4/NO2/NO3 with no significant result. Today I finally received PO test
kit,
full-scale 10ppm with well/+5ppm with "city water" available in town.
No wonder my 20% weekly water changes were ineffective.
Yikes! Yep, all you were doing with those water changes was re-supplying the
algae with food!>
I am using a TetraTec 300 and Eheim 2213 with lots of Carbon, also a Prism
hang-on (OK, I didn't read up much before tank set-up), and undergravels with
sweeper heads ( Ditto, should I ditch the undergravel & powerheads?)
<I am not a fan of undergravel filters in most situations>
20lbs of good Fiji LR, just 4 small Damsels, 4 medium hermits.
Can I use a remote holding tank (Rubbermaid 22G) and economically remove
phosphate from water using Poly Filter (12.00ea) in a small hang-on?
<Polyfilters can remove quite a bit of phosphate from source water. I love
them! However, I think that you'll need to take more aggressive means to
eliminate it for the long run...>
My alternative is =1.00$ per gallon DI or distilled from the local drinking
service at $1.00 gal. Randy R.
<Well, in the long run, I'd recommend an R/O unit for purifying your makeup
water source. I realize that it's expensive, but when you consider
that Polyfilters need to be replaced after they are exhausted (which varies,
depending on how much they are able to absorb in a given period of time), the
R/O is the better way to go in the long run, IMO. Yep- the initial cost is
greater, but over time I think it will pay for itself.>
P.S. I don't want to waste your resources on more important questions, I can
contact the manufacturer, but I thought you might be able to give me an
expedient answer.
<Please don't hesitate to contact us if you need assistance, okay? Regards,
Scott F.>
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