Kalk dosing - 11/26/07
<Hello Jeff,>
I have a sort of quick chemistry question.<Ha! Quick?> I did get a degree in chemistry as an undergrad, but without use, pretty much all knowledge has disappeared. I have been dosing Kalk by trying to get stable readings on my kH and Ca tests and have used a separate 2 part mix to fine tune the kH/Ca balance. My current readings are kH 11.2 and Ca 370.<KH above 10 will drop calcium below 400ppm>
This system doesn't really address pH maintenance unfortunately, and that parameter has had some fluctuation (7.9-8.2).<The pH will fluctuate naturally as the KH and Calcium levels change. It will also bounce a little (few points) with light levels and photoperiods.>
Basically, my understanding is that the kH is a measure of the buffering capacity of the water, i.e. the ability to resist change in pH.<true>
Kalkwasser is a solution of CaOH that both maintains the kH and the Ca in roughly the same proportion.<Yes and no. Kalkwasser, also known as Calcium Hydroxide will raise the pH significantly(over9.0) and boost calcium levels. It's main purpose is to supplement RO/DI water back to a buffered solution and to add calcium daily with make up water from evaporation. It will not be a reliable buffer for pH and calcium levels alone.>
Consumption of buffering material by stony corals and the buildup of C02 and organic acids all contribute to decreased pH. I have very good aeration, and have tested the pH with vigorous aeration and see no difference, so retained CO2 does not appear to be impacting my system pH significantly. Any build up in organic wastes will decrease the pH and consume the buffering capacity, proportionately dropping the kH, true?<Yes>
Based on all of these postulations, I've come up with the following hypothesis: A drop in pH is a ultimately a direct reflection of lost buffering capacity. Measurement of pH is thus an adequate parameter for assessing consumption of kH, whether by coral consumption or binding to organic acids and being skimmed off.<NO. pH is far too unstable in reef aquaria as so many outside forces affect it in a 24 hour period. For example, lighting with Metal Halides can increase pH levels at the end of a 10-12 hour photoperiod, yet the lack of light will lower the pH at the opposite end of the photoperiod. Bio-load and fish activity, feedings, etc. will all have small affects on pH(1-2 points like 8.2-8.0)>
If this is true, then Kalk dosing could be automated to maintain a stable pH. I haven't really heard of anyone doing this, so I think one or all of my premises are off base. I figure there are more factors at play. Setting the Kalk reactor to turn on when pH drops below 8.2 probably bears significant risk of dangerously increasing kH and causing supersaturation and precipitation or "white-out". Why this would be true, I don't know and would appreciate your input.<If automated, the chance of precipitation would be much higher as you stated. The reason is there would be a build up of buffer over time that the system would not be able to balance out. Also, the higher buffer levels would lower the Calcium levels too low. Let's say the pH reached 8.4 .How would you remove buffer to get the pH back to 8.2? There in lies the problem. It only buffers automatically up the scale.
In the end, Calcium and Alkalinity levels are paramount and pH is really not as important. (outside of some strange extremes). So, if Calcium is maintained at 400-430ppm and Alkalinity levels are between 8-10 KH or 3-4meq/l then the pH will fall between 7.9-8.3 naturally thru out the day.>
Here are some more articles to explain further...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/may2002/chem.htm
http://advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2002/chemistry.htm
http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/d_warren_090797.html
Enjoy!>
Thanks so much for your help,
Jeff
<no Problem, Rich...aka...Mr. Firemouth

Kalkwasser dosing question -11/09/07
Hi again. I am hoping you can help me clarify something. I have a 16 gallon nano and am trying to raise the calcium level. My PH is 8.4 and my current calcium level is 340. I have been using B-Ionic calcium buffer system as a daily supplement. I am using a CPR in sump skimmer, and my tank inhabitants are a clown fish, a cleaner shrimp, a baby deresa clam, a small brain coral, some mushrooms and a baby bubble.
<What's your alkalinity?>
Since the tank is so small, I would prefer not to use a drip system and would rather add the Kalkwasser manually to avoid overdosing . If I am careful, can I add it to my top-off water, which I pour into the sump?
<Depends on how you do it...>
And if it is safe to add directly to the top-off water, what would you suggest as a safe ratio? I know that this is going to be a trial and error thing, but obviously I would like to keep the "error" part to a minimum.
<It depends on your alkalinity and the nuances of your particular tank. However, I'd start off with just a pinch in a gallon of top-off water (but only add 1/4 gallon at a time). Measure your pH before, 5 min after and then an hour after. Measure your alkalinity and calcium before and a few hours after. Generally though, Kalk might not be your best solution here. Is there some reason you don't want to just use more two part solution? ...or use calcium chloride?
Also, be sure to see the FAQ on Kalk addition:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/kalkh2ofaqs.htm>
Your help would be very much appreciated. Thank you. Lindsey.
<Best,
Sara M.>

Kalk Dosing... A Must To Accurately Measure/Monitor pH – 10/30/07
Howdy guys/gals,
<<Cheers Mike!>>
Just have a quick question I can't find an answer to.
<<Let’s see if I can help>>
I just recently traded a fish tank for a Stony Reef Kalk reactor (super excited!!!!).
<<Neat!>>
I don’t have an ATO unit or pH controller yet.... but wanted to get this thing into action!
<<Mmm...you can get by without an “automated” top-off unit (and I suggest the Tunze Osmolator over the ATO gear), but you will need to be able to closely/frequently monitor pH. I strongly recommend you put the purchase of a pH meter ahead of any automated top-off equipment, if finances preclude getting both>>
Input comment here LOL.
<<Comments inputted>>
Here are some quick specs -
100 gallon tank
ph - 8.2-8.4
SG - 1.025
Cal. 400-450
Alk 8-9
Mag - 1300
Mainly Acropora (10+ small-med colonies), Montipora (10+ small-med colonies), and one derasa (growing like no tomorrow).
<<Sounds very nice>>
It seems like they are consuming quite a bit of carb/bicarb, and Calcium because I test once a week and the numbers drop by 1 dKH and 50ppm calcium. I was thinking about setting a Tom's Aqua-Lifter pump on a digital timer for 1-2 minute intervals 2 hours apart, 6 times at night. The pump runs about 3.5gph so the dosage would be 1min - .058 gallons - or 2mins. - .116 gals. Is this going to be too much at one time??
<<Not likely>>
1/10th of a gallon seems like nothing in a 100gallon tank but do you think it would be detrimental to dose this quick?
<<It is always wise to be cautious, start small, and monitor continuously to determine the correct “dosage” of Kalkwasser. The water in the reactor can only dissolve/absorb “so much” of the Kalkwasser...as long as you are dosing the supernatant and not allowing solids to enter the tank then I suggest you set the pump and timer to replace “all” water lost to evaporation...i.e. – run all your top-off water through the Kalkwasser reactor. If you have an idea of how much water is lost to evaporation on a daily basis (and you should), then it is a matter of just doing the math to determine how long the pump must run to replace this. You could set it up to make the replacement overnight when pH typically falls...or space it out over a 24-hour period>>
pH spike ??
<<Thus the need for an electronic monitor...in my opinion>>
Suppose I won't know until I try it but my pH titration test kits aren't accurate enough.
<<You need to correct this or purchase a pH monitor before proceeding with the Kalk reactor>>
Any advice on how to get this reactor in action would be greatly appreciated. I really should just wait, I bet...
<<Until you can accurately measure/monitor pH...yes>>
Thanks – Mike
<<Regards, EricR>>

I am wondering if one can dose too much Kalkwasser? Is it safe
to add it on a continuous drip when your levels are already at 450? I would like to use it to raise pH and help get rid of phosphates as you had previously suggested, but I am concerned that it may raise my calcium levels too high...is that something to be worried about? Thanks! By the way thank you for your suggestions on curing my rock with light! My new rock was cured in 9 days! (A record for me.)
>>
Thank you for writing for clarification. There is such a thing as having too much free calcium in your water, and overuse of Kalkwasser can lead to this scenario. An upper limit for me is about 500 ppm, which in the vast majority of settings (natural and synthetic water, decor and substrate, supplement conditions) should allow for an elevation of pH to the desired temporary range of 8.4-8.5. 
The real potential downside to even higher calcium levels has more to do with the antagonistic relationship of Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide) solution with the equally important consideration of alkalinity. In so much as adding the Kalk (at night, dripped in, near an area of rapid mixing like a powerhead discharge) doesn't reduce alkalinity below let's say 3.5 meq/l, I wouldn't worry about how much calcium there was present. Put another way, I'd drip in the Kalkwasser in attempt to elevate pH, precipitate your phosphates up to the point where your alkalinity was diminished below 3.5 meq/l.
Bob Fenner

Dosing Kalkwasser
Bob,
I would like to start dosing with Kalkwasser. I have an 80gal. reef with no sump, yet. The instructions say to use 1-8th to 2 teaspoons of
mixture for a gallon of water. Would it be best to start on the low end of the spectrum and go on from there? 
<Umm, careful here... the instructions are for making "stock solution" of Kalkwasser, NOT the amount to directly, indirectly put in your tank per gallon. Put another way, this is the amount of Kalk you try to get into solution for dripping into your tank slowly, at night, in an area of rapid mixing... NOT two teaspoons per gallon of your system/tank...>
I am thinking of getting the 2.5 gal. Kent marine aqua-dose for this. Is this a good choice?
<Yes, a good product>
My calcium is @430, pH @ 8.3, dKH @ 8(I need to work on this). 
<These are fine values.>
All the corals in my tank are healthy except for a fading elegance. I read in the FAQ that you can feed them. What would I feed an elegance coral?
<Most any large, small meaty food items... applied right to the animals polyps when open... with plastic feeding tongs if possible... once or twice a week...>
One last question, is phytoplankton a recommended additive for a reef tank? I've never used said product before but have read a bunch.
<IMO/E, yes... very useful>
Your input always helps, THANX.
Charlie
<Glad to be here my friend. Bob Fenner>

Kalkwasser slurry
Hello, I was reading through the articles on Kalkwasser and noticed something about a "slurry of Kalkwasser (whisked in cool water)" as an alternative to dripping. I honestly tried to find this information so as not to bother you. I am very interested in this method. I currently drip Kalkwasser, but do it sometimes infrequently laziness). I use a Kent Aquadoser and it sometimes is aggravating because it will sometimes stop dripping during the night. I clean it regularly with vinegar. I would appreciate any help on this subject. Thank you, Steve.
<Cheers, Steve... that was my recommendation. I detailed it in my book (www.readingtrees.com and Bob's review at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bkcorlproprev.htm) and have referred to several times here on WWM. It is very easy to apply this way and very easy to abuse... you really need to have a digital pH tester (pen $30-50, meter $75+). Add slurry at night in small doses at first to a strong stream of water. Add no more than what will raise your pH by .1-.2 (critical) limited by what your net daily demand for calcium is (verified by going without a calcium supplement for a day or two, testing before and after and then figuring out through careful and slow experimentation how much Kalkwasser you need daily to keep up with it). This is a grossly abbreviated synopsis of it... but I hope you get the gist of it. Best regards, Anthony>

Kalkwasser in deep... use of CH3COOH
<Anthony here waking up from an alcoholic haze from visiting our friend Bob and a great time in San Diego. Or maybe it isn't alcohol at all... perhaps just intoxication from all of the noxious gases produced by my body from the unnatural amount of Mexican food that I ate in sunny Southern Cal...Ha!>
I was reading an article from Leonard Ho (the article was traduced into Spanish which is my language, so apologize me for my mistakes) in that article he speaks about the use of Kalk in combination of Acetic Acid.
<yes... some aquarists have been experimenting with this>
It suppose that the Acetic acid gives (or at least function as) all the CO2 needed to react. 
<this is not fair, likely or even accurate. I don't mean that the method is wrong... just not exact or easily replicable if proven to be helpful. One cannot fairly say "all"/adequate CO2 needed is provided when such levels vary naturally in displays from inadequate through plentiful>
His formula is 15 ml of Acetic Acid (diluted at 5%, as vinegar) in one liter of water (Distilled or from the aquarium) plus 1/2 spoon of Kalk. The vinegar will provide all the CO2 in order that all the Kalk react. This solution will provided a lot of good things:
first one: we will obtain more CA++ than using just water
<negligible... but acceptable>
Second: The Acetic Acid will provide an equivalent to all the CO2 we need to avoid the precipitation of the new calc ions into useless calcium carbonate.
<the precipitation of carbonates cannot honestly be assured/prevented just by the application of acetic acid. This is inaccurate. And any such precip by Kalk used alone is easily avoided by proper application of the hydroxide. Adding too much or too fast will cause a local spike that begins the crystalline precipitation of carbonates. Proper dosing of Kalk will not cause this so this benefit is moot>
Third: When all the calcium chemistry finished the residual of the acetate ions (from the vinegar) will leave organic carbon which will serve as food to the bacteria which will redound in an improvement in the capability of those bacteria to convert nitrate to nitrogen.
<or it can impact the natural pool of buffers just the same>
The paper abound in chemistry explanations, and everything sounds good.
<My personal opinion is not as bad as it might sound from above. I believe the method may have some merit... but ultimately it is an attempt to "re-invent the wheel" or rather, to fix something that isn't broke, so to speak. Such notions are spawned often from the Misapplication of Kalkwasser. With knowledge the proper application of Kalkwasser is so simple, quick, safe and easy>
My questions are:
1) Did you ever heard about this method?
<yes, as above>
2) if you heard, do you know how fast this solution has to be poured into the sump?<all Kalkwasser is more effective when dosed gently into the top of the display proper>
3) if you need a lot of calcium, ¿can you pour more than one liter at a time?, can you double the acid acetic and Kalk in the same liter of water?
<any application of Kalk is entirely dependent upon what the actual daily demand for calcium is... not how much or how little Kalk can be added to a system per day without causing a precip or other negative effect. I have detailed this in my book (regarding Kalk slurries) and it has been rehashed in the wet web media archives (Google search or follow links)>
4) how much time it will take to raise the calcium enough to be measurable with a colored calcium test?
<varies by tank/system >
5) how often it suppose that we have to use this formula?
<my preference is for plain Kalk slurries and/or calcium reactors>
I know it is a lot of questions, but the paper explain a lot about chemistry, but nothing about the dose or protocol of use.
Thank you, Carlos Díaz
<with kind regards, Anthony Calfo>

Kalk dosing
Hello and thanks for all of your helpful hints and suggestions!! I am now bringing my pH up to acceptable levels with the Kalk dosing. Was 7.9 and now am keeping it up to 8.25 regularly. 
<good to hear... do check recent posts on the FAQs also about low pH and well insulated houses (atmospheric influence) and opening a window to raise pH in the aquarium!>
The question I have with the Kalk "slurry" is: Do you mix up the solution and then dump all contents from the glass into the aquarium or do you pour it slowly and stop when the undissolved Kalk starts dripping in? This has been a bit vague in your Q&A forum. 
<no worries... both ways can be done. I elaborate on this application in my Book of Coral Propagation if you are inclined. The gist of it though is that it is not so much a matter of slurry or decanted solution, but rather what is your daily demand for calcium (go three days without any dosing and measure calcium before and after then divide by three to get a daily average). Once we figure out how much calcium is needed daily, we then need to slowly dose calcium to fulfill that demand (confirmed by testing that reveals the calcium level isn't straying downward with your x mg of Kalk daily). You could begin with an eight or a quarter of a teaspoon daily (probably a little low if you have a good bit of live rock and/or coral). The only limiting factor here is that regardless of what your daily demand for calcium is, you should never add more slurry or decant than your pH can sustain without jumping my more than .1-.2 (i.e.- before slurry 8.2, after slurry 8.35). For such measures and experiments with Kalk slurries, accurate pH testing equipment is necessary (digital pen or meter). It is uncommon that your tank will not be able to get all of its daily calcium needed through a single dose without spiking pH. Only tanks with massive coral loads need a second dose or more. Remember to only dose Kalk after the lights are out too>
Also in my 60 gallon acrylic sump I have hard and soft corals, snails, emerald crabs and a Niger Trigger, one sand sifting goby and a lawnmower blenny. Is it safe to add a baby Clown Trigger or would that not be wise? 
<not at all wise: not invert safe, gets too large/aggressive, and will kill most tankmates in time>
I have always wanted a Niger and a Clown Trigger and I have the Niger. 
<the Niger Odonus is a wonderful and passive species. An exception among triggers>
Can I get the Clown too? Thanks as always, Jeff Reed
<best regards, Anthony>

Kalk Slurry 7/18/04
I have read all your forums on Kalk dripping and some of Anthony Calfo recommendations, also info on calcium reactors and Kalk slurry methods.  I want your opinion on which one to pursue, slurry or drip.  
<simple my friend... along the way you missed (or did not have/read the original passage in my book)... the Kalk slurry is for people that have so much coral growth or an otherwise high demand for calcium that a drip of supersaturated solution cannot bring enough CA in. If that's you... and you aren't using a Ca reactor, then perhaps the slurry is for you. Else no worries. Run a safe and easy drip>
I have a 75 gallon sump-less reef with mostly softies and a few LPS, a one SPS (candy cane). I run a remora hang-on, carbon and 2 power heads for circulation.  I have been having problems maintaining pH (8.0), and wish to start dosing Kalk (have wanted to for sometime, PH problem became a good motivator).
<do try dripping it first perhaps... or very tiny amounts in slurry if you prefer>
My system evaporates about 1/2 gallon a day, not too light intense (4 X 65 watts pc), open back canopy.  I have been reading up on DIY Kalk drippers, seems easy enough.  
<yes, agreed>
How much pickling lime do you recommend that I add? Most advice says 1 teaspoon per gallon to drip nightly.
<a teaspoon will not dissolve in a gallon of water... only so much to supersaturate. Save some CaOH and shake up half as much>
Currently, I top-off about every other day (1 gallon) would it be better to add a slurry or shot of Kalk into my top-off here?  Or would the pH swing be too great?  
<also important from the original passage... you must use a digital pH meter with the slurry method. That will help you determine how much to add at once and how fast>
If going this route, how often should I check for PH afterwards as I am out the door for work shortly following top off?
<check pH about a half hour afterwards>
Thanks..........Mike (Toledo, Ohio)
<best regards, Anthony>