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FAQs on Supplementing With Kalkwasser, Trouble/Fixing
Related Articles: Calcium,
Understanding Calcium & Alkalinity,
Kalkwasser,
Calcium Reactors Related FAQs:
Kalkwasser 1, Kalkwasser 2,
Kalkwasser 3,
Kalkwasser 4, & FAQs on Kalk:
Rationale/Use, Calcium Measuring/Test
Kits, Sources of Calcium,
Calcium Supplements, Mixing/Storing
Kalkwasser, Dosing Kalkwasser,
Kalk Reactors, Kalk Automation,
Alkalinity Interactions,
About Kalk Use & Other Supplements, e.g. Magnesium,
CaCl2 (Calcium Chloride)/ Pickling Lime Use,
Calcium and Alkalinity, |
Please... Do NOT just pour "it in"... w/o testing, knowing your
calcium and alkalinity (and Magnesium) demand, you will easily throw
off your overall water chemistry. RMF |
Kalkwasser <<Mis>>Application
– 03/19/09
Ok. I guess I'm an idiot.
<<Oh?>>
I've been in this hobby for oh about 3 years now learning way more stuff
than I ever thought would be needed to "have an aquarium".
<<Mmm…indeed>>
Maybe 8 months into the thing I graduated to using Kalkwasser.
<<Pros and cons to its use… But I do use it myself>>
I think from that point till the present I have been using it
incorrectly but not to the point of devastation obviously because all
systems are going ok I guess.
<<…okay>>
This is going to sound really stupid especially from someone who has
dedicated a lot of time to reading books and internet research like this
site but I have been under the impression (my own) that Kalkwasser
because of the way it settles in a reservoir after mixing with your
water, needs obvious aeration to keep Kalkwasser ingredients suspended
while it drips into my aquarium.
<<Um, nope… Doing so can/will actually render the solution moot as the
introduced Carbon Dioxide from the aeration will react with the
dissolved Ca++ to form much less soluble CaC03 (Calcium Carbonate)>>
What possible benefit could come from the stuff if it just sits at the
bottom of the reservoir giving me clear water for the output?
<<Mmm, your research should have enlightened you to the fact that after
mixing, the “clear water” is a concentrated solution of Ca++ and OH-
ions>>
So here all this time I have a fancy rig set up which is my 29 gallon
Rubbermaid can in the laundry room (lid on- don't go all laundry
chemicals on me right now I can't take it), with proper dosage of Kalk
spooned in. Then one large Rio pump stirring that whole mess up so it
doesn’t settle to the bottom, and one small pump at the bottom which is
attached to my 1/4" airline tubing that runs up and over the can,
through the laundry wall, into other room where the "reef" is and into
the sump. I have a valve on the end of the tube to control the drips to
maintain the proper water level in my sump.
<<Not a bad setup…other than the Rio only needs to be used
“periodically” to stir the Kalkwasser>>
It's been a real bugger clogging with that milky Kalk dripping through
there.
<<No doubt>>
So periodically I open the valve more to push the obstruction through
and reset. It doesn't take much and tank inhabitants don't "appear" to
mind.
<<The “obstruction” is likely mostly insoluble Calcium Carbonate from
exposure to atmospheric Carbon Dioxide…along with whatever impurities
are carried along in the solid particles>>
All on my own I decided that I needed to try something else because that
was becoming a pain. So I decided to do like some other people and go
with the two part ESV stuff for calcium and such.
<<Okay>>
Just got it today and haven't even opened them yet, but I do promise to
be careful.
<<Just follow the manufacturer’s instructions…along with water testing
for need of the supplement>>
I figure, without the Kalk issue, I can have more consistent top-off
water without the clogging and get my calcium elsewhere.
<<Several approaches to dosing this bio-mineral, yes>>
Now that I see from further research, it appears I could go back to the
Kalk and mix initially but this time just let it settle and that's ok I
guess.
<<Many hobbyists do use this approach with success>>
So correct me if I'm wrong please.
<<Not wrong… Do look on the NET for the excellent articles on
Kalkwasser/Kalkwasser dosing by Randy Holmes-Farley. Here’s a link for
starters: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/index.php>>
Sorry for the run on sentences and any other poor grammar or misspelled
words or other errors.
<<Spell-check is a wonderful tool>>
Jason
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Re: Kalkwasser
<<Mis>>Application – 03/20/09
Thank you for the link on the correct procedures for administering
Kalkwasser.
<<Quite welcome>>
I still have a couple quick questions I'm sure you will know the answer
to.
<<Okay>>
You say I need to "periodically" stir/aerate the Kalk with my Rio pump.
Define periodically.
<<Not “aerate”…but “stir” the Kalkwasser to saturate the stock solution.
When using a “reactor” where new fresh water comes in to the vessel to
replace that dosed to the tank then you would want the pump to
“periodically” stir the mix (run for a couple minutes, two or three
times over a 24hr period) to ensure dissolution of the powder/saturation
of the water. If the Kalkwasser is not being utilized in a reactor, but
is simply dripped or pumped from a container, then you only need to run
the pump to stir the mix when new water or Kalkwasser powder is added to
the storage vessel>>
If I'm using a 29 gallon can and it's nearly full of Kalkwasser
solution, and my evaporation rate is about one drop/second refilling
back into my sump (155 total gallon system with halides), how much
stirring do I need over the course of about a week (depletion)?
<<If no new water is added during this period then additional mixing is
not necessary. Once you do the initial mixing and the solids settle out,
the stock solution is saturated at that point and as long as new fresh
water is not introduced to the container, any additional mixing/stirring
of the solid material is moot. I do also want to mention that once the
clear solution has been used up and you are ready to add more water to
the mixing container that it is not necessarily so that you also need to
add more Kalkwasser at this time. It depends on how much Kalk powder you
begin with, but more often than not there is more than can be
dissolved/utilized in one go. Try just adding more fresh water, mix it
well with the Kalkwasser solids in the container, allow the solids to
settle out and test the pH of the water. If the pH is 11-12 then you
should be able to use the new stock solution without adding more
powder>>
Also, once this is empty, do I discard the remaining solid(s) at the
bottom of the can or leave it in there? I've never removed solid Kalk
before because it had previously all been mixed up and administered.
<<Ah…I should start reading ahead… It’s up to you, but I reuse this
material. You will accumulate insoluble material, so do figure on
dumping/cleaning all a few times a year>>
One other thing, is there a pH/temp tester out there that is head and
shoulders above the rest?
<<I find the Pinpoint electronic meters from American Marine to perform
well>>
Or all they all problematic?
<<They all require care/maintenance/periodic calibration or replacement
of the electrodes>>
I was looking into a Hanna 5 pH/temp tester but want your input first.
<<A lot of folks use these “portable” meters but I find the electrodes
of the larger “monitor” type meters like those offered by American
Marine to be more durable and easier to keep calibrated…and easily
replaced as needed>>
Thanks again, you people are a tremendous asset to the hobby.
Jason
<<Many thanks for the kind words…is a pleasure to assist. Eric Russell>>
Kalkwasser vs. Bubble Algae 8/23/08
Hi Bob,
<Kiwi>
I have a question for you. I was using Kalkwasser to kill off some
aiptasia
<Mmm, wouldn't do this... Do look into Red Sea's newest
product for... really spiffy>
and got some Kalk on the bubble algae
cluster adjacent to the anemone.
<Oops>
Two days later the cluster
of bubble algae was dead and gone. Have you tried this?
<Nope>
Is
it safe?
<Not likely... the killing, dissolving of disparate life
"in" system is often problematical... the release of all sorts of
chemicals, cells...>
I haven't seen any ill affects in the tank. I do
however; wonder if the spores of the bubble algae were released since it
was entirely covered in Kalk?
<Don't know... but would not be
surprised>
Any ideas as to how or what happened?
Sincerely,
Kiwi
<Caustic, basic "burn" reaction... toxified the algae to the
extent that it "gave up". Likely, as you state, this material dissolved
as a reflex defensive mechanism... is now spreading throughout the
system. Cheers! Bob Fenner>
Qiwen "Kiwi" Feng
Aquatic Express Inc.
451 Grandview Avenue, Ridgewood, NY 11385
Kalk Slurry FAQ corrections 7/3/08
Greetings!
While
researching Kalk dosing I came across a minor error on this page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/kalkh20faq2.htm, 10th entry from the top.
Here is the abbreviated text:
"Kalk Slurry - 2/17/03
what is the
proper way to add Kalk slurry and how much water should be used?
<.... Be sure to use a digital pH meter to prevent spikes of more than
.02>
...
<...with kind regards, Anthony>"
The decimal should be
moved from .02 to .2,
<Agreed... will append>
as Anthony actually
states in the previous entry on that same page!
I have one additional
concern -- although various opinions exist concerning the usage of
Kalkwasser, I believe the term "Kalk Slurry" is assumed to have a
universal definition by most readers in the hobby (or at least it should
IMO).
<A good... but incorrect assumption>
The conflict of
information I came across concerns whether or not to dump the solids
into the tank along with the cloudy water (basically everything in the
cup) versus decanting the mixture, as it pertains specifically to the
Kalk Slurry method. In today's FAQ the reader is advised to decant the
solution:
"Kalkwasser Slurry method - 7/2/08
I've been reading
about the Kalk slurry method on your site as well as other sites. I just
wanted some clarification on this method. I know your supposed start
with a 1/8 or 1/16 of a teaspoon of powdered Kalk added to cool or cold
RO water, mix it and add the slurry slowly to the main tank. What I'm
not clear on is... I've only read one article that mentions...you should
only add the cloudy water layer...not the precipitated Calcium Hydroxide
solids on the bottom.
<Yes... best to decant, otherwise avoid
introducing the solids>"
<Yes... my stmt.>
In an archived FAQ
located here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/kalkh20faq2.htm, the reader is
advised that the slurry method involves dumping the powder in as well;
Calcium hydroxide grades - 2/15/03
...
"<if you dose by a
supersaturated solution and discard the minor precipitate, then you can
get the cheaper product. Kalkwasser is self-purifying because of its
caustic nature. At the high pH of the solution, most metals and
contaminants precipitate out. Now... if you intend to dose the powder
directly (like my Kalk slurry method mentioned on WWM and in my book),
then you will want to buy the better grade>
<thanks kindly, Anthony>"
Given that the definition of a slurry describes solids suspended in a
liquid without completely dissolving, I would lean toward the latter
answer
in determining a universal definition for Kalk Slurry.
I
hope this is of some use to the site, my tank inhabitants thank you all
for your dedicated efforts and hard-earned knowledge.
Regards,
Brandon
<Thank you for your efforts at clarification. BobF>
Ugh, These Blasted Test Kits!...And Maybe A Little Kalkwasser Seesaw
Effect? – 03/18/08
Yep, admittedly I fell prey to bad test kits,
first with alkalinity and then with magnesium.
<<Very common, in my
opinion>>
Here is my issue, 1000 gallon system, my reactor used to be
able to maintain Alk and calc at appropriate levels, the test kit I was
using (Red Sea as I couldn’t get Salifert at the time)
<<Do try
Seachem’s line of test kits…good quality for value>>
for magnesium
was reading 1200 ppm. Little did I know it was below that by 200ppm per
my Elos kit,
<<I’m not familiar with this brand/manufacturer…though I
do seem to recall favorable comments from Bob re>>
and I was using
Kalk which was eroding it further.
<<Mmm, yes…I’m not absolutely
certain of the science behind it, but I believe it is something to do
with the addition of Kalkwasser increasing the precipitation nuclei of
the water column, thus promoting the disproportionate loss of
Magnesium>>
Needless to say I fell into this desperate addition of
varying buffers to maintain Alk and calcium until magnesium finally hit
1300+ (I'd like to stabilize it at 1400, I’m running Zeo Mag in my
reactor and it’s putting out 1350).
<<I think it likely the reactors
and the Kalkwasser additions are battling each other…probably best to
discontinue the latter>>
So, long story short, tested my levels last
night, Mag 1300, Alk 8, CA 400. My reactor ran all day, is well tuned in
with a pH of 6.5 and Alk output off the scale. I dosed Kalk for a while
today to raise pH as it was floating around 8.1 and I wanted to get it
higher (dripping maybe 20 drips per minute, in a 1000 gal system I
thought it was just about right). Tested Alk tonight and it was 7, CA
360 and Mag 1200!
<<Refer to my previous statement re the Kalkwasser
use>>
I do have a little detritus but not a big buildup. I don’t
understand why I can’t nail down solid levels. I increased the CA
reactor output and it’s a steady stream, but I am really wondering at
this point if I am not best off adding another CA reactor.
<<This
would be preferable to the Kalkwasser additions>>
I do have heavy SPS
but I can’t believe they are sucking that much calcium.
<<If
exhibiting heavy or even just “good” growth their demand can be
considerable>>
I am beginning to wonder if I am not in some type of
runaway supplement nightmare
<<…yes>>
(I add all according to
directions), but the sheer fact that Mag fell by 100 in a day (per my
Elos test), indicates to me stop dripping Kalk, use Seachem’s buffer for
pH if need be, and dose mg according to directions until it stabilizes.
<<Sounds like a plan>>
I don’t have any nutrient sinks that I know of
(only DSB is a DSB 30 gal trash but it has no detritus in it).
Any
help is greatly appreciated!
<<Stopping the Kalkwasser dosing and
stepping-up the Calcium reactor(s) should make a dif…oh!..as well as a
large water change to help bring all back in “balance.” Regards, EricR>>
Re: Possible Kalkwasser issue... with the link! 5/20/07
Bob,
<Diego>
Thank you again for the quick and useful reply.
I'm still a little bit puzzled by what's happening and would like to
share a couple of thoughts and questions to make sure I understand the
problem.
Here's what I'm struggling with.
I. I understand that
the danger parameters are not as hard walls as I may think, but if a
snowstorm is happening wouldn't it cause fluctuations in parameters such
as Ca and Alk. I measure them daily and they seem to remain pretty
constant.
<I see>
II. I use a very low concentration of
Kalkwasser since I don't have a huge consumption of calcium. I would
expect this to reduce the risk of these events.
<Yes>
III. After
further observation I realized that not all particles are white and many
seem light brown. In addition they seem to be coming from the back of
the tank following the water movement.
<Okay>
In addition to a
snowstorm I was thinking it could be and accumulation of detritus in
some area of the tank (hidden behind LR) that is being circled around by
the water movement. My third hypothesis is that I'm incorrectly fishing
in the Kalkwasser container, therefore exporting some of the
precipitates that form while mixing.
<Could easily be>
I forgot
to add that everything in the tank seems to be doing wonderfully.
This is making me look at other hypothesis since I would think that
Ca/Alk crashes would at least cause some stress.
<Usually yes>
I
know I've been taking up a lot of your time but if possible wanted to
ask one last question.
When preparing RO/DI water to be used to mix
saltwater, the best procedure would be to just mix it for 24hr with a
powerhead or you would also buffer it to pH 8.4 before adding the salt?
<I would buffer after adding the salt... In fact, any changes I would
measure for and amend AFTER the salt is completely dissolved, the water
circulated (otherwise aerated)>
A huge thanks,
Diego
<Welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>
Re: Possible Kalkwasser issue... with the link! plus weird creatures
in the sump.
Bob,
I hope your enjoying the Memorial day
weekend.
<Yes... thank you>
Thanks again for the very useful
answers.
I took some observation time to understand the origin
of the particles that I'm seeing. After some tests interrupting the
Kalkwasser, I'm pretty sure that it's detritus floating around along
with some microbubbles.
I'm wondering now if there is a safe
level of detritus that can be suspended in the water or if it's
always better to minimize that?
<Mmm, no, not always. The vast
majority of biomass in aquatic environments relies on this material
(active and not) through filter-feeding mechanisms for nutrition>
Is this true also for air bubbles?
<These may be trouble, and
cured through various interventions... depending on their cause
http://wetwebmedia.com/bubtroubfaqs.htm>
I realized that the
bubbles aren't coming form the skimmer operation so I'm thinking
that it might be difficult to get rid of them. My main problem here
is that I started noticing this when I installed my new MH lights
and I can't see these particles when only the actinics are working,
therefore I'm also thinking that it may have always been like that.
<Maybe>
On a second note I would really appreciate your help on
identifying some weird creatures that I found in my sump (see
attached pic: sump). While cleaning the skimmer I saw what seemed to
be small bags of eggs with rabbit like ears, attached to the sump. I
hope that the picture is clear enough (the yellow color is caused by
the wooden structure, the water is colorless). The sump is full of
these bags all around the bottom. I'm wondering if this could be in
someway connected to the particles I'm seeing in the main tank?
<Mmm, not likely... these look like small Sea Cucumbers to me
http://wetwebmedia.com/cukeidfaqs.htm>
During my studies in
the US I was working on a project related to growing algae for CO2
sequestration and I just realized that some parts of that project
could be extended to reef keeping.
<Ah yes>
In particular I
was wondering if you know of any tank lighted with fiber optics and
a solar collector?
<Not yet>
It would be possible to
concentrate the solar light using a collector on the roof and use
the fiber optics to transport the light to the tank. It would need
some calculation but I'm thinking that in areas with enough sunlight
it would save a lot of electricity?
<Yes>
I'm sorry but when I
start talking about my passions I really get carried on. If I can
add one more thing, I wanted to send you a couple of underwater
pictures that I took in Hawaii.
<I see your Auriga BF>
I
don't know if you use reader's picture for the daily pics and don't
want to look too presumptuous in sending them. I'm always surprised
in how the behavior changes from the ocean to the tank. Non reef
safe fish live along with corals and very territorial fish in tanks,
live in schools. I guess scale here makes the big difference.
<We
are in agreement my friend>
Thank you for your patience,
<And
you for your participation. Bob Fenner> |
  |
Re: Kalkwasser, pH, dKH...And the Need for Understanding – 04/15/07
Hi Eric
<<Hello Roger>>
Thanks for the in depth reply.
<<Hope it helps>>
I will indeed read all the suggested material.
<<Please do my friend...and beyond what was suggested. Knowledge is
indeed powerful here>>
My Ca reading is 400 following the Kalk
incident!
<<Ahh, ok...this is fine>>
And yes it is the dKH
reading which is 13.
<<A "bit" high as stated, but no reason to
panic...just let it fall naturally>>
Could it be I was doing OK
before I followed the erroneous advice on using Kalk?
<<I think so,
yes>>
Apart from the Nitrates being constantly at the 12ppm mark,
everything else seems fine, oh except the pH which is perhaps something
I'm worrying about wrongly and what I was hoping the Kalk would cure.
<<Indeed... Though at the "low" end the pH is not "bad" but it wouldn't
hurt to boost it a bit for some measure of a safety cushion. I suggest
you try the Seachem product 'Reef Booster' for this...buffering your
saltwater mix just prior to doing your water changes should work
nicely>>
My reasoning on the c02 issue was I'd read that that might
be a cause of low pH.
<<I see... This shouldn't be an issue with an
"open" top tank, use of a skimmer, and good water flow within the tank
itself...unless your home is sealed tightly and the CO2 levels within
are high (easily tested by aerating some tank water outside the house
for a while and measuring the pH)>>
With nitrates the level has
never changed since I started testing it 6 months ago.
<<I would try
a new/another brand test kit to validate this>>
My LFS state that
theirs is 25 and think my level is good!!!!
<<It's not "awful," but
is higher than I like to see on a consistent basis. Perhaps you could
add some Chemi-Pure or Poly-Filter to your filter path to see it this
helps bring it down>>
Any advice would be gratefully received. I
was using a canister filter with bio balls and noodles (heard theses
were nitrate factories) so have managed to remove them over time so that
the filter now is used for water movement and small particle removal
only, so now the LR and sand are keeping the bio filtration spot on but
no change in nitrate levels!
<<Do make sure you clean the
particulate filter "at least" weekly as the trapped detritus is a prime
source of nitrates. And this canister filter is a great place to place
the chemical filtrates mentioned>>
Thanks once again,
Roger
<<Quite welcome. EricR>> Nuclear Meltdown
Bob,
I am
still in a state of morning. I left Tuesday for a convention in Atlantic
City, NJ. When I left that morning my 75g reef tank was doing well. I
left a neighbor (familiar w/ aquariums) to watch over my tank. When I
got home Thursday night, I went to check the tank and noticed it was
cloudy. Then I looked at all of the carnage. Everything in my tank had
been killed off. The fish, inverts, hermits and even the bristleworms
(didn't know I had that many!) I was able to save approx. 12 left-handed
hermits and 1 green stripe goby. These were quickly placed in my
quarantine tank and are doing fine. I
could tell from the smell that
my ammonia levels hit the top of the charts. I attribute the die-off to
2 possible solutions. The first the use of
Kalkwasser. I think it
became too caustic.
<This stuff is way too toxic for its intended
use period... a very poor idea/choice in folks trying to sell
"something" to the public IMO...>
The second I am unsure about. My
neighbor noticed that my protein skimmer was not working. He assumed
that I had unplugged the unit. Would a failure like this create this
sort of problem?
<Yikes, oh yes... a chain of bad reactions>
Also,
is the live rock worth saving? I'm talking about a nuclear explosion. Am
I back to square one?
<Yes, worth saving... if nothing else, not too
hard to re-culture with some new LR on/over the old. And yes to being
near to square one>
Thanks for your insights as usual.
Bob Wrigley
<Very sorry to hear of your losses, troubles. Patience and retrospection
my friend. Such adversity can be instructional. Bob Fenner>
Substrate Compaction
Hello again, Bob. Thank you for such a
speedy response on my questions. I tapped into the water line before my
softener to the R/O. Man, what a
difference! My dkH went from .6 to
11.8.My calcium readings were like 170ppm(with the help of Turbo
Calcium) to 280ppm with nothing but R/O
water salt (partially
softened water still mixed in, so my readings should get a little higher
on my next batch). Hopefully, this will boost my coralline
algae
growth..
<Yes... good moves... you should see a difference with days
to a few weeks>
I also switched to Instant Ocean not mixed any yet).
Another note; I've moved my rock to my 65 gallon tank I've just set back
up. It is
longer and shallower than the 58 gal. tank (better,
right?).
<In general yes>
Besides, the 58 gal. was borrowed from
my brother, which I had planned on purchasing from
him, but would be
better off using the money elsewhere. I've caught you up, so here's
another problem: I've used Kalkwasser off and on in the past. I've
also had a problem with substrate compaction. I don't always vacuum the
gravel (Seaflor) like I should, but when I do, there are big chunks that
are
hard to break up. I've heard Kalkwasser causes this. Is there
something I'm doing wrong or is this unavoidable?
<These are likely
related events... and yes to prevention... simple dragging of a wooden
or plastic dowel/rod through the substrate during weekly maintenance
will prevent a good deal of this compaction/aggregation>
Would a
larger substrate size help?
<Perhaps... or adding some to the
existing>
I also thought about not using a substrate, but I would
lose my buffering. What would be my best option? Thanks in advance,
Steve.
<The best option? Not using the calcium hydroxide at all...
but availing yourself of a carbon dioxide type calcium reactor... If you
use the Kalk, only drip it in slowly... only at night... only in a
vicinity of rapid water mixing... and only as much as needed... Many
intermediate approaches to consider... Bob Fenner> Live Sand
Mr. Fenner,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I begin by saying
thanks for the amazing service that you and the WWM provide. A wonderful
and invaluable resource that borders on information overload!
<yes... we have been told that we are really full of it many times <G>>
I have been able to research numerous topics with your FAQ's and your
added Google search engine! Thank you.
<excellent to hear>
My
question is about live sand. I am seeing "clumps" of sand -- I tried
that in the search feature -- and have noticed that the grains seem to
be sticking together.
<yes, I understand and can explain it>
Tank
info:
58 Gallon + Wet Dry Ceramic Media)/skimmer + HOT Magnum
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate >10ppm
pH 8.1
dKH 10
Calcium
400
I add the Kent CB as the tests warrant and had been using
Aragamilk.
<bingo... misapplication as part of the problem>
My
sand "crew" includes:
<this has nothing to do with detritivore
activity>
Sand sifting star, Over-achieving Dragon Goby,
<yes...
Amblygobius phalaena: this goby is one of the very best and most
hardy!!! for sand sifting. I love them>
10 Blue-legged hermits, and a
Blue Damsel that has taken to re-arranging the sand in three of the four
corners of the tank!
What do these clumps indicate about my water
chemistry?
<it is exactly precipitated (literally) by wildly
fluctuating chemistry. Perhaps unnoticed by you if you test your pH at
the same time every day. Some folks get it by pouring in Kalkwasser
solutions too much or too fast which causes a temporary spike in pH
locally. It may occur from the misapplication of other Ca or Alk
products (like your Aragamilk product.. of which I am dubious about its
benefits in the big picture) when used too much or too quickly (smaller
more frequent dosing is better than large weekly doses. And finally it
can happen in tanks (receiving such products or not) that have wild
"natural" swings in pH between night and day. I see that you report a pH
of 8.1. If this is accurate and a reading taken by day as I suspect
(when pH in aquaria is highest by far)... then you have a borderline
serious problem with pH. You may actually be dipping down to 7.8 or
lower at night (tank respiration). And this is all assuming that your
test kit read accurately! What if the kit read high? And your day night
readings are actually 7.9/7.6...yikes! No wonder then aragonite in your
bed is fusing.>
Or is this supposed to happen?
<nope... an
indication of a minor flaw in the system that could turn into something
bigger. Still not much to worry about>
Everything looks fabulous but
I am noticing more of these little sand "balls" every day.
<yes...
do examine your dosing system and day night pH swings (take a test
reading after a long dark night before the lights come on and not after
a fresh dose of ca/ALK)>
I really did try to find this mentioned in
the FAQ section and under LS but I may have been looking for the wrong
thing.
<appreciate you taking the time to look... hopefully you found
other interesting things>
Thanks for all your hard work and for
sharing your expertise. Have a wonderful day. Lee
<best regards,
Anthony> Kalkwasser still....
Hello again Anthony (It's
only me from over the sea....)
<Cheers, dear!>
I don't know if you
remember, probably not now but approx. 3 weeks ago I was asking about
dosing my reef tank with Kalkwasser. I was worried about what I thought
was high pH (8.5). Do I take it that 8.5 is actually not high?
<correct. It is indeed on the higher end... but a reef tank that was say
8.5 at peak day and dropped to 8.3 at night sounds nearly perfect to me>
I say this because you said that a pH of 8.6 would precipitate my high
phosphates, support Alk and add free calcium. I thought pH should be
around 8.3?
<8.3 is a convenient average and one that is promoted
(driven) by industry production of overpriced sea buffers that are
mostly baking soda which can only bring a system to 8.3 and no higher
easily <wink>. NSW averages on actual reefs (not the whole ocean average
which is lower) is around 8.45>
I still have not started dosing as I
am still worried about the affects . This is because I now test for
calcium as well as Alkalinity.
My tank is 100 gals (Imperial not US
gals). The parameters I test for are:
Temp normally 78 has crept up
to 82 in last couple of days because of abnormally hot
weather (for
England that is!)
<a four degree jump is a rather stressful... do
keep a close eye>
SG = 1.024
pH = 8.5 (8.3 at 2.00a.m. yawn!....)
liquid drop and tablet tests agree here Ammonia = 0 ,Nitrite = 0,
Nitrate between 10 and 20ppm Dry-Tabs Master test kit.
Alkalinity =
250ppm (is this high?) Aquarium System Fastest
Calcium = 500ppm +
used all measured dose without sample water turning blue.. previous
reading
3days ago 410ppm 10% water change done since then. Salifert
CaPro:-Test
<holy cow! The calcium reading is very hard to believe.
If you aren't adding any other calcium supplements then you have
EXTREMELY hard tap water or it is a clear inaccuracy of the test
equipment. You are dangerously close if true to having carbonates
precipitate out (a snowstorm). Please do not add ANY Kalkwasser until
this is clarified.>
phosphates = 5.0 (very high even straight from
tap, main reason for wanting Kalkwasser,
<WOW, yes... 5.0ppm is
staggering. Terrible nuisance algae in the tank too?>
hair algae
plague))
<ahhh, yes>
Dry tablets
My question is this: Can you
have too high a reading for calcium/alkalinity and if so what should be
done?
<yes... both are not meant to be held at the high end of the
ideal simultaneously. 8-12 dKH for ALK and 350-425ppm calcium is just
fine>
will dosing with Kalkwasser make the calcium /alkalinity
readings even worse?
<yes, but in different ways. If you push the Ca
higher, you may drive the ALK lower through the crystalline
precipitation of carbonates. A bad scene. You may need a RO or DI unit
to temper your hard tap water. Starting with purified water, you can
reconstitute the mix to a more reasonable Ca and ALK levels>
I use
Instant Ocean sea salt but am changing to Reef crystals when that runs
out.
<please don't as long as you use tap water (if the high CA is
true). You already have too much calcium>
I tested freshly mixed
Instant Ocean and found it had mixed a pH of 8.6 (thought it mixed 8.3
?)
<usually yes, but you seem to have higher than normal hard water>
I again used both dry tablet and liquid drop methods and they gave the
same reading.
I normally dose the tank, sparingly (less than
recommended doses) with Iodine, Strontium and calcium once a week (no
calcium for the last 3 weeks) since I realized how high it was but you
see it has still gone up since then with no additive just a water change
<ahhh.. no supplements, but the water change= definitely hard water
evidenced by the jump in Ca. Do consider a DI unit to purify your water.
A Kati Ani two column deionizer will be a fine investment>
Taking all
this into account , would you still dose with Kalkwasser ?<nope>
I
will just add that I have no room/capability of adding a sump/refugium
under the tank much as I would like too, I am saving up for a tank that
has all this incorporated in it but this will not be happening just yet!
All inhabitants seem happy enough (touch wood!).
Many thanks for all
your past /future help , I am slowly learning with your help. I have not
found
any site anywhere with such an abundance of information and
people willing to help like you do .
Also I have learnt a new word
from you , so Kudos to you!
<excellent!:)>
Bye for now - Jenny
<until you make the investment in a water purifier, simply do water
changes with Instant Ocean, add no calcium or buffer either so long as
they are over 350ppm and 8 dKH respectively. Best regards, Anthony>
Re: Kalkwasser still....
Hi again Anthony What a lightning
response!!
<we aim to please! Actually... we are just looking for
some good fish and chips when we finally do visit the UK :)>
You have
confirmed what I was thinking about not adding Kalkwasser yet/if ever.
We do have very hard water here.
<indeed... it all points to that. A
blessing for keeping marines and African cichlids, but a nightmare for
Amazon and pond fishes>
I am now a bit (no, a lot) worried about this
snowstorm thing you say I'm close to. Would it have happened when I did
the water change if it was going to? Could it still happen and if so
what can I do to either stop it or correct it if it happens.
<the
event is unmistakable... it looks like snowflakes suddenly and massively
appearing in your tank: like a snowstorm. I can say that you have
nothing to worry about if you keep doing regular water changes
(providing fresh minerals for the corals) and always replace evaporation
with distilled water (else you will concentrate the solids in the
display by using tap water for evap top off)>
will I lose my tank
inhabitants?
<it can be fatal yes and must be allowed to run its
course... doing a water change during the snowstorm only feeds the
reaction with more carbonates. You will be OK if you don't let your
Calcium climb above 500 ppm approx>
I was going to do another water
change soon but I dare not now!
<please do! The water changes are
necessary and critical. Your tank draws calcium daily... the water
changes help to replace it. You simply must add the distilled or RO
water for evaporation make up and you will be fine>
Please clarify my
next move apart from getting a RO or DI unit (I know what a reverse
osmosis unit does but what is/does a DI unit please?) which would you
most recommend me to get .
<DI is a deionizer and quite similar to an
RO unit. Much better in my opinion because it produces no waste water.
It can also be fully recharged with household chemicals>
Thanks again
for such a fast response - I am very grateful. Jenny
<My pleasure.
Anthony Calfo>
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