FAQs on Supplementing With Kalkwasser, Mixing
Related Articles: Calcium, Understanding Calcium &
Alkalinity, The Use of Kalkwasser
by Russell Schultz, Calcium
Related FAQs: Kalkwasser 1, Kalkwasser 2, Kalkwasser 3, Kalkwasser 4, & FAQs on
Kalk: Rationale/Use, Calcium Measuring/Test Kits, Sources of Calcium, Calcium Supplements, Dosing Kalkwasser, Kalk Reactors, Kalk
Interactions, About Kalk Use & Other Supplements,
e.g. Magnesium, Troubleshooting/Fixing, CaCl2 (Calcium Chloride)/ Pickling
Lime Use, Calcium and Alkalinity,
Kalk / vinegar 3/15/18
Good afternoon Bob. Hope the knee is getting better.
<Thank you John; not yet>
I was wondering if you could offer any “rule of thumb” on how much vinegar I
need to add per gallon of Kalk to extend its shelf life? Thanks!
<Mmm, the simplest organic acid, acetic; aka vinegar... is unfortunately not a
very consistent product; and you don't mention what amount of Kalk you're adding
per volume. I'd like to offer this quote:
"I add 60ml of vinegar to a gal of Kalk. I keep my Kalk concentration at 2tsp
per gal. Use it as a carbon source and to help keep the Kalk in solution better.
60gal cube with 10gal sump. I add 600ml/day of Kalk which is roughly 9.1ml of
vinegar dosed a day"
as reasonable for a start. I would caution you to measure/monitor nutrient (NO3)
levels, as you may find that your Nitrate in particular drops precipitously,
depriving chemosynthetic and photosynthetic life of necessary fertilizer. Bob
Re: Kalk / vinegar
Cool! Thanks Bob!
Kalk Stirrer And Operation 11/10/10
I have recently set up a Deltec Kalk stirrer to supplement my calcium
reactor. Current water parameters are thus Ca 370 Mg 1350 (maintained
with Seachem supplement) dKH 11.2 tank size is 130 gallon.
I run the stirrer as a top off only at night with the saturated (clear)
solution running into the sump. Can you give me an indication of how
much Kalk to put into the stirrer every week please? Would like to top
up the Ca to 420 odd as I'm getting a coralline explosion and will
be placing various LPS stonies in the next six months.
I currently put in around 35 grams and let the stirrer run for a day
prior to top off at night, this is then dosed with a peristaltic pump
attached to a timer. This 35 grams only seems to maintain the calcium
<You will need to determine that amount. When you mix a fresh batch
of Kalkwasser, take a calcium reading of the mix after 24 hours. If it
is under 800ppm, you can add a little more Kalkwasser. When you reach
close to 800ppm, the total amount of Kalkwasser mix you've added
will be the amount you can use for each mix. You cannot exceed 800ppm
as that is the saturation point, and no matter how much more Kalkwasser
you add to the stirrer, it will never exceed 800ppm.>
Also how often to I swap out the Kalk in the stirrer for fresh? If I
remember rightly it was weekly is that correct?
<Once you have used up the newly mixed limewater, the Kalk residue
should be discarded and start anew as excessive carbonate build up can
raise dKH which in turn can/will cause calcium precipitation. Your
present dKH is a little on the high side. I would maintain no higher
than 9 dKH, preferably 7-8 dKH.
Do read here and related articles/FAQs found in the header.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: 20K HID and Actinic Blue Light'¦now Kalkwasser
and Nitrate -- 06/10/09
Thanks very much for your prompt answer.
Normally I use deionized or distilled water to make Kalkwasser
But I recently noticed that the deionized water contains 10 ppm of
<<Odd, the deionization process should remove all
traces'¦perhaps it is leaching from the containers>>
I would like to know if I can use seawater, with around 0 ppm, to make
the Kalkwasser water?
<<I suppose you could'¦though I don't know what kind
of result you will get/if the extra salt ions will cause any adverse
reaction. Try it and see what happens'¦>>
I just made a coil denitrator and would like to know the output flow
rate per hour of the water.
<<This is a balancing act'¦ Start with a fast drip and
measure the output for Nitrate and make adjustments
accordingly'¦you want as fast a stream as you can get with a
'zero' Nitrate reading>>
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Old Kalkwasser -- 04/14/09
I looked thru your many Kalkwasser FAQs and cannot come to a firm
conclusion on an approach to an almost automatic Kalk setup.
I have a 10 gal container that I fill with new RO water once a week via
a shut off valve. I have a premeasured cup of Mrs. Wages pickling lime
to create the mix of limewater. I then mix up the solution manually and
let it sit for at least 10 hours.
<<Sounds good thus far>>
I then run an Aqua-Lifter on a timer to dose the Kalk slowly into the
tank at a predetermined drip rate to keep pH within check.
My main question is the leftover Kalk on the bottom of the 10 gal
container. Since I have the draw tubing 2' from the bottom of the
container, I will never receive ANY of the sediment sitting on the
bottom of the container but it will get mixed in when new lime and
water is added.
Do you see an issue with this?
It's really convenient to mix up 10 gals once a week, but the
larger dosing container is rather cumbersome to pickup and washout
weekly. Any advice?
<<What you are doing is fine (but do still figure to give the
container a good cleaning 2-3 times a year)... In fact, you can
probably just add water and give the old slurry a good stir without
adding new Kalk powder for a time or two after. The water can only
dissolve 'so much' of the Kalk powder at a time...test the pH
of the solution after mixing and if it falls below 11 you know to start
adding new powder>>
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Kalkwasser Magic Number (pH) -- 04/08/09
I have done like most and have spent oodles of time scouring this forum
for the answers I need to all of my questions to find the answers to
many other things I wasn't looking for but was good to know
But I'm not in the mood at this time to hunt for the one question
you can easily answer for me if you would be so kind.
I recently purchased a Hanna pH/temp tester, the red one, and have
calibrated it. Seems really accurate at least temperature wise as I can
compare it with my other thermometers. It takes a few moments to get to
its final reading as it slowly moves to the proper degree/pH. Anyway, I
have been dosing with Kalkwasser via my 29 gallon Rubbermaid trash can
with a slow drip in to my sump. I make up enough to last a week. When I
refilled to a week's worth (maybe 15 gallons RO water), before
adding new Kalk, I tested the pH of the water and found it to be
<<Not unusual'¦often the remaining solids can be
stirred/remixed a time or two to create a new 'batch' of
Kalkwasser without the need for adding more powder>>
What should the pH be at when it is added to a fresh mix?
Seems like 11.3 is pretty good for not even having to add more
I'm sure if I added more Kalk the pH would go up but to what?
<<To about 12 or a bit more. But why not just do it and see for
I do know enough to know the old, "if it ain't broke don't
fix it", so I'm not going to do anything stupid here while
everything is stable and healthy looking, but I would like to know what
the magic number or target should be.
<<As long as the pH is 11 or more, I see no need to add more
Kalkwasser powder. Just give the new water a good stir and let the
solids settle out again (the water can only render in to solution a
finite amount of Kalkwasser powder). But'¦ Some folks are also
more comfortable with dumping/cleaning/mixing fresh each
time'¦is up to you
Also, can those pH calibration fluids that come in those packets be
emptied into a plastic bottle or something to store in to be reused
later, or once you open it you have to use it once and chuck it?
<<As long as the calibration solution does not become diluted or
contaminated it can be reused. The solutions can also be obtained in
bulk (e.g. - 220ml bottles), though the single-use packets likely
afford the highest degree of accuracy (less chance of
contamination)'¦depending on how they are used>>
Thanks cyber friends,
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Calcium Oxide (Making Calcium Hydroxide) --
01/22/09 At work I have access to food grade Calcium Oxide CaO
(lime). I believe when calcium oxide is mixed with water it is Calcium
Hydroxide (Kalkwasser mix). <<A bit oversimplified but yes, the
Calcium Oxide 'reacts' with the water during a process called
'slaking' to form Calcium Hydroxide. The byproduct would then
again be mixed with water to make the 'Kalkwasser'>> Can
I use this instead of Kalkwasser? <<Won't be 'instead
of''¦ If you go to the trouble to slake the Calcium Oxide,
then the byproduct will be Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser
powder)>> I know a concern for Kalkwasser is that there could be
harmful impurities in the raw material. I have the Certificate of
Analysis for this Calcium Oxide so I know that this material has very
low to no harmful impurities. <<Considering most of the organisms
we keep can detect values in the parts-per-million, even
parts-per-billion range'¦having 'very low' harmful
impurities can be quite significant. But even so, this food-grade
product is likely fine, and certainly no more of a risk than the
grocery store pickling lime used by many hobbyists>> I just
wanted to get advice from an expert before I go and do a little
experiment at home. <<I'm no chemist, but the reaction of the
Calcium Oxide and water will generate a lot of heat'¦and
reportedly about double the volume of the solid material. I also do not
know how violent (if at all) this reaction will be. I suggest any
experimenting be done outside with very small amounts until you get a
feel for the process. Be sure to wear eye and skin protection (as a
'base' substance, the Calcium Oxide/Hydroxide is more damaging
to your eyes than an acid!) and do research the 'slaking'
process before you start. And though not as readily accessible as he
once was, you might also see if you can reach Randy Holmes-Farley (a
reef hobbyist AND experienced chemist) over at Reef Central for his
take on what you want to do>> Thanks for your help. Love the
website. Matt Columbus, Ohio <<Happy to share mate.
RO/DI water 11/30/07 Hello <hello Steve> I
found many sections on aerating and buffering newly made RO/DI water
for water changes and makeup water. My question is if I'm adding
Kalkwasser to a gallon of water to drip into my system does this also
need to be aerated and buffered first? If RO water has a low PH
wouldn't the high PH Kalkwasser offset this? <Your question is a
good one. pH is lower after coming out of a RO unit because many of the
"minerals" that would buffer pH have been removed. Once the
water flows from the RO to the DI unit it has ALL the minerals removed,
leaving pure water. This water has 0 TDS and is a very "soluble
solvent". This means it is eager to absorb any mineral content
that it exposed to. Therefore, mixing it with Kalkwasser (Calcium
Hydroxide) will immediately have a reaction. The pH will soar up to 9.0
and the hardness will soar to 8-12DKH. This is good for a Saltwater
tank as it adds calcium and buffer to the tank. As far as making it
goes, add your dry powder to your 1 gallon jug, then shake very well so
that you dissolve as much as possible. Then let settle so that you go
from cloudy water to clear water. The only thing you want to add to the
tank is the clear water. Then just drip that in overnight each day or
as necessary (depending on your rate of evaporation) Hope this
helps-Rich.. aka. Mr. Firemouth) Thanks