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FAQs on Long Tentacle Anemone Compatibility

Related Articles: LTAs, Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed Anemones 'Coral' Compatibility: On Reducing Captive Negative Interactions Cnidarians  by Bob Fenner, ppt. vers: Cnidarian Compatibility: On Reducing Negative Cnidarian Interaction Parts: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,  by Bob Fenner

Related FAQs: LTAs 1, LTAs 2, LTA Identification, LTA Behavior, LTA Selection, LTA Systems, LTA Feeding, LTA Disease, LTA Reproduction, Anemones 1, Anemones 2, Anemones 3, Anemones 4, Bubble Tip Anemones, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Other Pest Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Lighting, Anemone Feeding, Anemone Systems, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Selection, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Health, Anemone Placement

Not nearly blind, body-oblivious fishes like Moray Eels. Gymnomuraena zebra, the aptly named Zebra Moray is a slow-moving chocolate black with vertical white striped beauty.

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

LTA eating fish?     8/13/12
Hello all,
<Karen>
Thanks again for such a fabulous site and all of your help. My family and I recently went on vacation and I neglected to feed my LTA before we left (we were gone for four days). It is host to a pair of maroon clowns who are pretty docile and spend most of their time tending it. All of the fish have lived together without incident for quite sometime. When we returned, my dotty back, starfish and flame hawk were missing and the lemon peel was dead and rotting in the opposite side of the tank from the LTA :( The blue damsel, green Chromis, mandarin goby and clowns were left and healthy.
Needless to say, the water was gross. I did a 50% water change (thanks heaven I keep water premixed), cleaned the skimmer and changed the canister filter's charcoal packs. All of the equipment seemed to be working fine and temp was normal. The remaining fish are still healthy a week later. Is it possible the LTA ate the fish?
<It is; yes... though these animals can dissolve quite quickly when dead>
BTW, no one had access to the house to fish sit so the fish were not fed while we were gone.
Thanks for your input.
Karen
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Long tentacle anemone - 5/9/2012
Hi there
wwm: Ewan
I have a question about the Majestic Angel with a Long Tentacle Anemone. Now that the angel is eating mysis, flakes, spirulina, and chopped shrimp, he is now bold and shows himself more. He also nips at the anemone as expected from previous posts.
wwm: Anemones and large Angelfish are an ill advised combination.
If I get a pair of Ocellaris to host the anemone, will that help the anemone?
wwm: Possibly, if the clowns are large/aggressive enough to fend off the Angel and if they take to the LTA. Ocellaris are not a natural symbiant of Macrodactyla doreensis. I would remove the Majestic until a pair of clowns are established in the anemone and defend it aggressively. The Majestic will likely kill the anemone if not removed in the meantime.
Will the angel and clown fight from your experience?
wwm: Not likely.
Thanks
wwm: Quite welcome.
Ewan
wwm: Jordan

All fish Under Stress - Anemone?/Macrodactyla doreensis/Compatibility 7/20/11 <<RMF>>
<Hello Aaron>
I recently acquired a small "long tentacle" anemone about 4" across when fully open. My clown immediately hosted in it. This morning I found a XL chromis and a Domino Damsel stuck in the anemone both dead. The chromis was partly digested. When I got home from work, my Yellow Tang was also stuck in the anemone and all the rest of the fish are breathing hard, staying towards the bottom and appear to be near death. What could be causing this?
<This is exactly why keeping fish other than anemone hosting species is not a good idea.>
are the anemone's digestive juices poisoning the other fish?
<Unlikely, my guess is the stressed fish got a poke.><<Or also too likely, there is a dire battle going on twixt the Actinarian and "corals"... Need to be acclimated to each other... gone over on WWM. RMF>>
The odds of an anemone catching 3 fish in the same day seem pretty low.
<Can, depending on tank size which you did not mention.>
The water quality is good and all corals and inverts are open and doing well.
<If the anemone decides to move, your corals will also be in danger.>
Any clues?
<Do an ammonia test and act if necessary. Bob may comment here as well.><<Return or separate this Anemone. RMF>>
Course of action?
<Best to keep anemones and clownfish in their own aquarium. I suggest taking the anemone back if possible, or find a new home for it.>
Much appreciated
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Aaron
More: re: All fish under stress - anemone?   7/20/11

Thanks for your input, Bob.
James
<Glad to be of assistance. B>
Re All fish Under Stress - Anemone?/Macrodactyla doreensis/Compatibility 7/20/11 <<RMF>>
Thanks.
<You're welcome.>
Its a 75 gallon tank. I've had anemones before without any issues but this one did position itself in the entrance to a cave the fish like to swim through.
<Is the risk you take. I've been down that road in the past and have lost fish to anemones.>
No ammonia. In the last 24 hours I've lost three 8 year old fish including a Yellow Tang and my original damsel from the cruel cycling process. (Btw Ill never cycle that way again and go a more humane route.)
<Have you read the dailies on our site today? Bob added his comments to this as well but he likely sent them along to you.
James (Salty Dog)><<Yes, I did/do. RMF>>

Clarkii Clown And LTA 5/16/10
Hello.
<Hello Jennifer>
Hopefully you can help us out. My husband and I recently started a saltwater aquarium, and love the new hobby. I purchased a Clarkii clown and a LTA at the local store yesterday. These two were together at the store and hoped it would be the same at home. The clown has still taken to the LTA at home, but the LTA hasn't had a chance to foot in the sand because the clown keeps bothering it. Does it or can it hurt the LTA if it doesn't foot somewhere? Any suggestions on helping it foot somewhere safe? Please help...
<Yes, it is best to allow the LTA to get a foothold before introducing a clownfish. The simplest way is to place an egg crate plastic divider in the tank separating the two until the LTA settles in.
The egg crate material is available at Home Depot or similar stores and can be found in the lighting
department. You may want read/learn about your LTA here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
thanks in advance.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Purple LT Anemone... poor env., incomp...    4/15/10
Hello!
<Hi Brandon>
Iv tried figuring this out on my own, but I have had the toughest time keeping my Purple Long Tentacle Anemone. Everything seems to be OK with it, it is sticky, mostly purple, base is vibrant orange, but I can't keep the thing still.
<It is not happy>
It doesn't seem to latch on to anything, All he seems to do is explore the tank, and almost always stays in a shady area. I call him Marco by the way, after the explorer :)
Here are my tank specs to the best I know to give :
(I wish I'd found this site before I made purchases)
<Ok>
29 Gallons (I know, small)
<Yes. Probably too small for one LTA. Impossible to keep two here>
Basic Lighting (Photosynthetic and Daylight)
<Not enough>
A good amount of rocks (15-20 pounds?)
<Probably too much if it is covering the sand>
3 Inch deep Sand Bed
<Too shallow>
1 Ocellaris Clown
1 Maroon Clown
<Not compatible. Better to swap this out for another Ocellaris>
1 Engineer Goby (He stays to himself)
<Not surprised with the Maroon in there>
(This is where you really yell at me)
<No yelling! Promise!>
1 newly obtained Hermit Crab (quite big) with a Calliactis attached to him
(This is how I found you guys, and I've learned that I'll be doing plenty of feeding)
<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/twaanemfdgfaqs.htm>
1 Long Tentacle Anemone
1 Purple Long Tentacle Anemone (Marco)
What can I do to make this guy stick to a nice spot?
<Nothing. He is doomed in this setting>
I feel like he is committing suicide when he holes up under a rock with no light. Do I just let him hole up wherever he likes even if there is no lighting and i cant see him?
<No, I would try to take him back to the shop. They should not have sold you this animal. Read here, they need at least a foot square space of sand each, with good lighting and a sand bed of at least 6 inches. Also, two together are not compatible unless they are clones, so one is also killing the other. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm >
Also, I drop frozen Mysis that I thaw out in water directly from the tank almost every day, and it seems like the Regular Anemone eats it, I haven't seen Marco (who has no host, for the life of me I don't know why the Maroon wont warm up to him) eat the Mysis (which is all I have, do i get something else?) even after the Mysis touching its tentacles.
<Feeding is not the main issue here'¦ the environment is. You make no mention of water quality either>
The regular Anemone has been there for about 2 months, Marco about 1 month, and I just added the Hermit today. Have I doomed someone along the way or can I fix this?
<You can fix this by.. removing one Anemone, providing 6 inches of live sand for the other.. removing the Maroon, improving your lighting.. and oh yeah'¦ these should not be placed in systems that have sand beds under a year old either.>
Maybe the Hermit would love our Florida beaches . . . : p
<Please don't release this animal into the wild.. this is appalling practice for many reasons>
Thank you for any reply :)
<No problem Brandon. I'm sorry I could not provide better news for you.>
Brandon
<Simon>
Re: Purple LT Anemone 4/16/10

<Hello Brandon>
First Off, Thank you so much Simon for helping me!
(Water quality seems to be fine by the way)
<No worries!>
I've decided I will get another tank, because I know the supplier won't help me. In fact I won't be helping them much anymore either!
<Mmm, this is a very common practice - mis-selling Anemones>
On another note, the regular Anemone is currently attached to a rock and loves it there (and is great for show). The current sand bed is 2 years old, has copepods, and tons of other micro-organisms (it is so fun to watch!)
<Great!>
From my understanding I need to add at least another 6 Inches and remove a few rocks.
<No, you need to add TO 6 inches. Since you have 3 already, this can be done an inch at a time, once every 6 weeks or so. There is plenty of guidance here & related http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dsbmaint.htm>
So would the best move be getting another tank and working from there or find someone to donate poor Marco to?
<Either/ or would be better than the current situation. I would have a larger tank with just the one Anemone if it was me>
The Manifest Destiny depends on Marco's survival.
<Yes, for sure! Expansion of the available territory IS required>
Also would it be best to move the Maroon into a new tank? I believe I can obtain a seasoned 35 Gallon tank from my girlfriend, who always has it running, but no much in there but rock.
<It is better to choose one species of Clown, OR another, and have a pair. If you have a bigger system then the larger and more aggressive Maroon would be fine. If you stick to the smaller system then you are better off with the Ocellaris>
And lastly, since the sand needs to be deeper, how do I go about putting it in when it would be younger than 1 year?
<Posted. An inch at a time>
The Hermit seems to be quite happy where he is :) I would never release him, only find a new home.
<Good to hear!>
Thanks again!
I'm glad I've found a place with seemingly all the answers
<Heee! Not necessarily all, but definitely 'some'. Simon>

LTA attacking Torch Coral? Usual lack of reading re comp.  1/7/10
Hi, the other day my LTA floated itself around the tank,
<Mmm, not good>
and ended up interlocking tentacles with my torch coral.
<Ohh>
since then, the anemone has seemed to settle down to one suitable spot. at first it looked like the anemone got the worst of it, but now seems just fine (even growing), but the portion of the torch coral that tangled with the LTA is definitely dying off. should I be worried about the other sections of torch coral in the colony, or will they be okay as long as they aren't bothered by the anemone? Thanks, Jay
<Not a good idea to mix Actinarians... as you can/could read on WWM. Too likely this situation will repeat in future. Both organisms have a great capacity at regeneration. See WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Re: LTA attacking Torch Coral? 1/7/10
Cool, I actually didn't find your website until I did a search on Electric Flame Scallops (very helpful). lets just say the malevolence of my LFS is apparent to me now.
<!?>
my wife is very attached to the LTA, so would it be terribly inhumane if I were to contain it under some sort of clear plastic basket or inside a hang-on quarantine box?
<Wouldn't work in any case... Perhaps her own new system...?>
oh as it seems the norm here this is what I'm running. 30 gal rectangular, 30 lbs of Fiji live rock, tom aquatics rp3 filter/skimmer (without the foam pad in the intake, it was holding to much decaying material in the tank),
<Good move>
Eheim 120v heater, Hydor Koralia 2 circulator, 24" Coralife t5 vho actinic/10,000 bulbs less than a month old, running a simple blue LED for moon lighting. water temp stays between 78-80 degrees. ph 8.4, ammo 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, kH is a 12, calcium stays a little low at 380 ppm consistently,
<No problem>
0 phosphates. livestock is 1 torch coral, 1 green digitate Acropora, Christmas tree worm rock (arrived with glass anemone, waiting for Aiptasia-x in the mail), one long tentacle anemone, 1 clownfish, 1 electric flame scallop that I hope now to give the most compassionate existence to that I can (as the LFS said it wouldn't take it back unless it died within the two weeks I bought it, and I know nobody else to give it a better home), 7 electric blue hermit crabs, 4 turbo snails (two are VERY large), and a neat little conch that hitched a ride on the live rock. it might be a little apparent that I put a lot of trust in my LFS prior to finding this site.
I've only been doing this for 2 months, 3 if you count the month I let the tank sit with just live rock to cycle, so I wont let it get me down. thank for the help, Jay
<A pleasure to share with you Jay. Bob Fenner>

Re: Bubble Coral Split/Long-Tentacle Anemone Removal -- 10/22/2009
Thank you for your help! Justin and you, Bob, have been awesome.
<Glad to assist!>
My next question is what is "cleaving" and then, the next question has to do with another coral I have.
<I'm fairly certain the 'cleaving' Bob referred to, would also be known as 'fragging' -- often these individual coral polyps on these types of LPS are broken down into individual branches, each with their own polyp... He was recommending not to do this, as they will grow largely as one unit if uninhibited. Do correct me if I'm wrong here, Bob!><<This is what I intended. RMF>>
My Pagoda coral is about 9" across now, and I would like to make it smaller. How do you recommend going about that?
<Typically done with a diamond cutting blade attached to a Dremel or similar device -- just work slow.>
Last, but not least (sorry for the 3 part question), my anemone (whose photo I've enclosed) has outgrown my aquarium. He is a Long Tentacle Anemone I bought 1.5 years ago as a 2" specimen. (The clownfish in the photo was only around 1" long and the Coris Wrasse, about 2" long...Okay, I have to just put this in here...that male clownfish turned into a gold barred maroon this year. They both took 3 years turn colors and she's about 4" long now and bites. ). I have included both photos so you can see the incredible amount of growth over a year and half of my Long Tentacle Anemone. His rate is around 1" monthly.
The problem is, if you notice, he's outgrown his environment and I am afraid he will begin stinging corals. I can't get him loose. I tried to move him to his own aquarium, but I can't seem to get him to come loose, even using a big soup spoon. He's approximately 18" tall when he's floofing in my tank.
<Allelopathy is a very real possibility here -- I have read varying methods for removing such anemones (or at least getting them to loosen their grip a bit) by using somewhat direct flow from a powerhead, as well as some ice against the glass where its foot is resting -- do be careful with the ice suggestion, if the temperature differential is too high, the glass could potentially crack.>
Thank you in advance for your very welcome and knowledgeable expertise.
Bonnie
<Glad to provide it! -JustinN>

And Then There Were Six, Chromis beh.  6/25/09
Hi Crew,
<Darryl>
I recently added 7 small (3/4 inch) Chromis Viridis to my reef tank.
Then, on their second day of residence, I watched my LTA consume one.
<What they do>
He was still breathing, very slowly, as he went down. I figured that was the stupid one. ;-) Now I'm finding that the Chromis are sleeping with the LTA at night.
<Also natural... associate with stinging celled life to avoid fish predation>
Often as many as four of them in there among the tentacles. Is this common/normal/safe behavior?
<Normal yes, safe, no... Would "hang" in and about an arborose stony (likely an Acropora sp., perhaps a Pocillopora...) if you had one present>
They've plenty of nooks in the LR that they're eschewing. Maybe they know about the Stomatopod and figure the anemone is the lesser evil.
<Mmmm>
I've tried to get that darn mantis out. Traps have failed, hyposaline dips have failed. My LFS suggested leaving the rock out to dry for a couple hours, but that seems unlikely to work, in my opinion, and his
lair has some nice Porites sp. that I'd like to keep if possible. He's rather small, sub-one-inch and so far and hasn't wrought so much havoc. He walloped some hitchhiker Xanthids, but who's complaining.
I'm hoping that as he gets bigger he'll get hungrier for bait I periodically leave out.
<Ok>
I know, now, that the LTA wasn't the wisest addition. Purple tentacles, green and fluorescent green oral disk, about 6 inches across (on average), bright orange base. But I've noticed that he never quite closes his mouth. It's usually open about a centimeter. Is this gaping?
<Not necessarily>
He seems otherwise happy, hasn't moved since I buried him in the gravel, stands up at night and flattens out during the day. I'm a bit worried about allelopathy with the Euphyllias, Faviidae, Zoanthids, and Sinularia in there.
<Worth consideration...>
Thanks in advance,
Darryl
<Bob Fenner>
Re: And Then There Were Six 6/27/09

Hi Bob,
<Darryl>
Thanks for your input...
<Welcome>
It seems that the chromis had the last laugh. The anemone coughed out what was left of the fish as a whitish ball the following morning but not before busting its gut, so to speak.
<How they... egest>
I've noticed looks like a tear along the column with a small amount of what appears to be mesenterial filaments bulging out. I'm entirely not sure what to make of this, but I've read ( on WWM ) that there's a good chance that this will heal within a few weeks.
<Yes>
I'm a bit hesitant to remove it
<I would not>
to a hospital tank in this condition for fear of causing more damage. The water parameters all appear normal/unchanged: SG = 1.023,
<I'd raise...>
pH = 8.2,
NH4 = 0, N02 = 0 NO3 = 5 mg/l, Ca = 450 mg/l.
<A bit too high... what is your Alk, dKH?>
The nem's behavior hasn't changed and there's no apparent necrosis. So I've got my fingers crossed.
I have a couple other concerns. The Ctenochaetus strigosus has come to regard the nem as its toilet.
<Not unnaturally>
It repeatedly defecates on the anemone, which doesn't seem to mind/react, but this leaves a large pile of poo on the surrounding substrate that I have to very carefully vacuum out.
<Many anemone species... make a good part of their nutritional base thus>
Might an Anemonefish prevent this by keeping the surgeon at bay and/or cleaning up the area around the anemone?
<Mmm, yes>
Not to mention keeping the chromis away. I've read ( WWM, again ;-) that they often do more harm than good but I'm wondering if this is a special case....
Finally, The shifting from my vacuuming has caused the nem to "float" to the surface of the substrate. It's still holding on but it's only got a grip on the surface grains and I'm afraid it will fall over when it stands up. The nem has never been willing and/or able to sink itself into the substrate, which is a coarse-ish crushed coral.
<Mmm, maybe put a semi-flat smooth-ish rock underneath>
The grain size varies from 1/8" to 3/8" with similarly sized shells mixed in. Should I try to dig a hole all the way down ( about 3" ) so it can get a good grip on the glass?
<... the rock>
Alternatively, I've considered taking a small polyethylene tub ( the ones that CD ROMS come in ), setting the nem in that, and sinking it into the gravel filled with soft fine oolitic aragonite. Alas, I learned too late about the disadvantages of crushed coral.
Darryl
PS - Lighting = 4 x 39W 36" T5 HO. (2 6500K, 2 actinic). Water Depth = 12" Is this too weak, marginal, or ok for the nem?
<S/b fine>
I'm thinking marginal as it seems happy. It has never moved from where I put him a month ago. There's no apparent bleaching, but admittedly I have no idea how long it would take to show symptoms.
<Most captive systems are over and inappropriately illuminated intensity wise... Bob Fenner>

Anemone Spawning Event -- 4/24/08 Good day to you and everyone who reads this. <Hello, Brenda here!> This was a first for me, I came home from work to find my LTA normally the size of a dinner plate down to the size of a cup saucer but standing up a good 10 inches with the tentacle's tight and curly. The mouth was out about half an inch to three quarters of an inch with white "smoke" coming out no pun intended. This lasted for about three to four hours as it slowly went down in size. My 72g tank now looks very milky and the skimmer has stopped working (just like when oils from your hand get to it). So I guess my question is: Is this sperm and what is the best way to clear my water without over doing a water change? <Yep, your anemone spawned! You need to do a large water change, no other way unfortunately. I also recommend running some fresh carbon. I would do this as soon as possible. Keep an eye on everything, and be prepared for more water changes. Good luck! Brenda>

LTA attacked by Choc chip star 04/07/2008 Hi, <<Hello, Andrew here>> Friday we woke up to find our chocolate chip star hovering over the spot where our LTA was. We removed the star from that spot and could not find the LTA anywhere, not even a trace of it. Needless to say the star went back to my LFS the same day. <<A wise decision, very predatory>> I was heartbroken by the loss of our anemone. We have had it for about 8months, and it was about 8 inches in diameter and very healthy. So I bought a new anemone to replace the old one, it is a BTA. When I returned home to acclimate the BTA, to my surprise the LTA was out and alive! I have a 75gallon with a snowflake eel, and volition lion, about 90lbs of live rock, and snails for cleanup crew. The LTA does not appear happy, he will not inflate fully, his tentacles are long and inflated though, appears to have no injuries, has not moved from his spot, however his mouth remains slightly open (which I am aware is not a good sign). He does seem to inflate more as the days go on, but mouth remains open. I placed the BTA on the opposite side of the tank, where he immediately attached his foot. My questions are as follows: 1. What precautions should I take when housing two different anemones in the same tank? <<Plenty of distance between SP.>> 2. What should I do for my LTA? <<If possible, move to quarantine tank, target feed and monitor closely>> 3. Will the LTA be okay? <<Given good water parameters, staple diet, lighting, should recover fine>> 4. What should I watch for or be worried about? <<The main to watch is the distance between these two, else chemical warfare will ensue>> I did perform a 20% water change yesterday Sat), just to be on the safe side. I use RO/DI water which I mix myself. All of my parameters are perfect. We have had the tank for a year, and it has been very stable for the past 6months. I do have a skimmer, two additional powerheads (which are screened to avoid the anemones being sucked in) and appropriate lighting for anemones. Thanks in advance for your help! Love your site Michelle <<Hope the above helps. If problems do arise between the two nems in the tank, i would suggest removal of the BTA.. Personally, i prefer to only see multiple nems in tanks of 100 gals plus, this gives plenty of room for the two to have "plenty" of space between them>> <<Thanks and good luck. A Nixon>>

Re: LTA attacked by Choc chip star 04/09/2008 Hi again, <<Hello Michelle>> Thanks for the quick response. So for an update: I was unable to move the LTA to quarantine because he would not let go of the glass bottom. Today he was looking alright, then I noticed the LTA has moved, he is still close to where he was and in the crushed coral, still stuck to the glass bottom. When I went to feed the rest of the tank I noticed he was not looking to good. He was a little curled up, tentacles still inflated but he appeared shrunken. He did happily accept a small piece of food and ate fine. <<That's a good sign that food has been accepted, and moving is a sign its not happy where it currently is, should find a happy spot for itself soon enough>> I just did a water change yesterday. I checked my levels today and here are the results: Ammonia: 0, Nitrites: 0, Phosphate: 0, pH: 8.3, Nitrate: 30-40!!! I know high levels of nitrates can be harmful to anemones. How can I fix this? <<Water changes are you new best friend here to get them lowered, odd you have had a sudden spike up that level of nitrates. Nothing died in the tank?>> My water change was a 20% change (75gal tank) Should I do another water change? <<Please do>> Try a buffer? Will a vitamin boost help? What should I do? I don't want to lose my anemone or any other occupant of the tank. Please help! <<Adding buffers etc is not the way forward, water changes to bring your param.s back in line is the best thing>> Thanks again I really appreciate your help, Michelle <<Thanks, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/12/08 I have a one year old 75 gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and into my toms <?> aquaria PS3 BakPak filter with a skimmer. (by the way there is pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have a couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back corners set on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it does a pretty impressive job as far as getting an alternating current. I also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that obviously does not move, but one of the deflectors hits the current from the Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. that gives me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed depending on how much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown digs up throughout the day. <Yes, they are good at that.> Corals: huge green Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or 10 months and does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of them full colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a large amount of LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of Frogspawn. I also have two rather large colonies of mushrooms. I only have five fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the LTA ever since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang. My water parameters are as follows: cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily) alk: 9-11dKH (checked twice daily) ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of ( pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days) mag: 1230-1290 (tested every 30 days) temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer sg: 1.024 ( tested every water change) I do a 10 gallon water change every 14 days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank every day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I have to. I also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I have to use other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine every Saturday. Everything else should be included in water changes except mag only because of limewater but I also have Reef Advantage Magnesium which I add as needed. Now to the question at hand. About nine months ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying), probably should not have considering the tank was only a couple of months old. I bought it nonetheless and for the first four months it stayed right where it went to the first day, and it was the ideal spot that I kind of made for it, right in the front view of the tank. The LTA stayed there for about 4-5 months and then moved to the back of the tank, pretty much around to the other side of the rock it had always been under but now it is in the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple of months and then I added some rock for more coral places and in the process halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone has grown about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good color, very very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at lights out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it was the night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially since it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the same spot all poofed out and looking spectacular. <Reason why anemones and corals don't mix.> It should have a significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not an anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic T5. <I'd put another 10K T5 in place of the 460 actinic.> I just recently heard about some chemical warfare going on in anything less than a monstrously large aquarium housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got along for so long and no problems. <Lucky> The Frogspawn was in the tank before the LTA so they have been together always and no prior problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the light then he would end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in the sand than where he is now.) So if he was searching around for more light why would he go back to the same spot he was trying to leave? Although the place where he is at now does not have much current, again there are many more places in the tank that he could go while getting more light and the same amount of current other than where he is now but he always ends back where he started. By the way this all started about 7 days ago and every night it is the same thing. Another thing is that it all takes place throughout 4 hours. After the actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of the tank sits there for a while and then goes right back down to the sand where he stays till the following night. And yet another thing is that if I never looked in my tank at night (like when I am usually asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the night because you just cant get enough) then you would not even know it was happening because the next morning it is right where it was and opens up fully and still accepts food. I guess I do have two easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the anemone. #1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where it does not get enough light like under a cliff or overhang? <Very unlikely.> #2 With only 75 gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly large Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches across when fully open), is this to small of a system to house them both? <Yes, especially with the 16" span of the anemone. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral, companies, "i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just do not have the time to edit queries with numerous spelling/grammar errors before posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/13/08 wrote: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/12/08 I have a one year old 75 gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and into my toms aquaria PS3 Backpack filter with a skimmer. by the way there is pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have a couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back corners set on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it does a pretty impressive job as far as getting an alternating current. I also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that obviously does not move, but one of the deflectors hits the current from the Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. that gives me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed depending on how much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown digs up throughout the day. Corals: huge green Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or 10 months and does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of them full colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a large amount of LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of Frogspawn. I also have two rather large colonies of mushrooms. I only have five fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the LTA ever since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang. My water parameters are as follows: cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily) alk: 9-11dKH (checked twice daily) ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of ( pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days) mag: 1230-1290 (tested every 30 days) temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer sg: 1.024 ( tested every water change) I do a 10 gallon water change every 14 days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank every day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I have to. I also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I have to use other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine every Saturday. Everything else should be included in water changes except mag only because of limewater but I also have Reef Advantage Magnesium which I add as needed. Now to the question at hand. About nine months ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying), probably should not have considering the tank was only a couple of months old. I bought it nonetheless and for the first four months it stayed right where it went to the first day, and it was the ideal spot that I kind of made for it, right in the front view of the tank. The LTA stayed there for about 4-5 months and then moved to the back of the tank, pretty much around to the other side of the rock it had always been under but now it is in the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple of months and then I added some rock for more coral places and in the process halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone has grown about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good color, very very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at lights out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it was the night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially since it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the same spot all poofed out and looking spectacular. It should have a significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not an anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic T5. I just recently heard about some chemical warfare going on in anything less than a monstrously large aquarium housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got along for so long and no problems. The Frogspawn was in the tank before the LTA so they have been together always and no prior problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the light then he would end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in the sand than where he is now.) So if he was searching around for more light why would he go back to the same spot he was trying to leave? Although the place where he is at now does not have much current, again there are many more places in the tank that he could go while getting more light and the same amount of current other than where he is now but he always ends back where he started. By the way this all started about 7 days ago and every night it is the same thing. Another thing is that it all takes place throughout 4 hours. After the actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of the tank sits there for a while and then goes right back down to the sand where he stays till the following night. And yet another thing is that if I never looked in my tank at night (like when I am usually asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the night because you just cant get enough) then you would not even know it was happening because the next morning it is right where it was and opens up fully and still accepts food. I guess I do have two easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the anemone. #1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where it does not get enough light like under a cliff or overhang? #2 With only 75 gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly large Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches across when fully open), is this to small of a system to house them both? In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral, companies, "i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just do not have the time to edit queries with numerous spelling/grammar errors before posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)> Thank you for the info, Salty Dog, and I will try to be a little more careful in the future. <You're welcome.> Sorry about the misinformation but my t5s are 54 watts each and four of them (HO-2 10k, and 2 460nm). Does that matter or still the same reply, (change the other two to 10k) so that all of my t5 bulbs are 10k. (Also what do you think about just making two of them 12k or 14k, in place of the 460nm. <I'd go with one actinic rather than two. Many folks have just gone with all 14K lamps with good results. I just run two 14K MH's on my tank.> I have heard good things about high growth rates for sps corals under that spectrum) Another question, I have read to keep a 1/1 ratio of daylight and actinic. Is it safe to say that is not entirely true? <Believe that is dated info with the advent of the 10K-20K lamps.> I'm sorry, but I did not find anything about the problems between the long tentacle anemone and the frogspawn coral on the link you provided. Is the problem that the LTA will sting the frogspawn on contact, or can there be chemical problems without contact? Is it a must to remove one or the other? <Problem is, when the anemone moves, it stings everything along the way. As far as corals, there will always be some allelopathy going on. The use of a skimmer and/or high quality carbon/resin such as Chemi-Pure goes a long way in removing these allelopathic compounds.> Is it only the LTA that these problems exist? (or the same with a BTA) <If you mean stinging this is true with most anemones.> Another (kind of important) thing I forgot to mention is I have always used dip tests for nitrate and the color never changed. Since then my buddy got an electronic (Pinpoint) nitrate tester, and my nitrates are always around 13ppm. It has been that way for the 2 months that I have tested with the electronic tester. This does not seem to be the trigger for the anemones behavior, but do you think it is possible, just that it took him a while to react? <No, a nitrate reading of 13ppm is not all that bad but best to keep it under 10ppm.> The high nitrate reading was the reason for the fuge setup. It has been running now for about 20-30 days. I just took an Eclipse 6 and drilled some holes in it and installed it in-line with my filter. I put 10 lbs of medium course dry Arag to give me about 3-4 inches of substrate, but in another 2 weeks I am going to add the other half of the 20 lbs. bag. Does this sound acceptable? I do not have any macro in there now because it only has an eight watt bulb in it and I do not think that is enough <enough>. <As long as the bulb is a PC, it should be enough.> My nitrates never change no matter how many water changes I do. Is that normal? <Can be. Do you ever vacuum the substrate? This area is one of the biggest causes of nitrates. If you use mechanical filtration and do not clean/change pads weekly, the trapped waste will turn into dissolved organics.> One more thing, since the start of the tank I have had bio-balls in my sump. I have never cleaned them (they are as clean as the day I installed them, and there is no light that touches them). I have recently heard that they are not that good in an established reef tank. <In my opinion, the bio balls alone are not going to create high nitrate levels. Bio Balls do not produce waste. Most folks do not use Bio Balls if live rock is used. There is enough beneficial bacteria on the rock to take care of the nitrification process. I use the Bio Balls in my sump and never encounter nitrate problems, in fact, my nitrates are always at the residual level of the test kit.> Is that the same thing for the glass cylinders? <The glass cylinders can trap very small particles of waste. Some say they are efficient at removing nitrates. I've never tried them so I cannot comment. The best way to lower the nitrate level is by lowering the nutrient level in the system. Do read this link. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm James (Salty Dog)> Do you think I should take them out and pack my sump with rock rubble instead? (This would be done very slowly.) Do you think that the bio-balls are a contributing factor to the nitrate problem?

Re: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/13/08 I have a one year old 75 gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and into my toms aquaria PS3 Backpack filter with a skimmer. by the way there is pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have a couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back corners set on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it does a pretty impressive job as far as getting an alternating current. I also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that obviously does not move, but one of the deflectors hits the current from the Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. (that gives me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed depending on how much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown digs up throughout the day. Corals: huge green Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or 10 months and does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of them full colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a large amount of LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of Frogspawn. I also have two rather large colonies of mushrooms. I only have five fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the LTA ever since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang. My water parameters are as follows: cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily) alk: 9-11dKH (checked twice daily) ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of ( pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days) mag: 1230-1290 (tested every 30 days) temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer sg: 1.024 ( tested every water change) I do a 10 gallon water change every 14 days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank every day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I have to. I also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I have to use other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine every Saturday. Everything else should be included in water changes except mag only because of limewater but I also have Reef Advantage Magnesium which I add as needed. Now to the question at hand. About nine months ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying), probably should not have considering the tank was only a couple of months old. I bought it nonetheless and for the first four months it stayed right where it went to the first day, and it was the ideal spot that I kind of made for it, right in the front view of the tank. The LTA stayed there for about 4-5 months and then moved to the back of the tank, pretty much around to the other side of the rock it had always been under but now it is in the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple of months and then I added some rock for more coral places and in the process halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone has grown about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good color, very very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at lights out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it was the night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially since it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the same spot all poofed out and looking spectacular. It should have a significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not an anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic T5. I just recently heard about some chemical warfare going on in anything less than a monstrously large aquarium housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got along for so long and no problems. The Frogspawn was in the tank before the LTA so they have been together always and no prior problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the light then he would end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in the sand than where he is now.) So if he was searching around for more light why would he go back to the same spot he was trying to leave? Although the place where he is at now does not have much current, again there are many more places in the tank that he could go while getting more light and the same amount of current other than where he is now but he always ends back where he started. By the way this all started about 7 days ago and every night it is the same thing. Another thing is that it all takes place throughout 4 hours. After the actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of the tank sits there for a while and then goes right back down to the sand where he stays till the following night. And yet another thing is that if I never looked in my tank at night (like when I am usually asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the night because you just cant get enough) then you would not even know it was happening because the next morning it is right where it was and opens up fully and still accepts food. I guess I do have two easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the anemone. #1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where it does not get enough light like under a cliff or overhang? #2 With only 75 gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly large Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches across when fully open), is this to small of a system to house them both? In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral, companies, "i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just do not have the time to edit queries with numerous spelling/grammar errors before posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)> Thank you for the info, Salty Dog, and I will try to be a little more careful in the future. Sorry about the misinformation but my t5s are 54 watts each and four of them (HO-2 10k, and 2 460nm). Does that matter or still the same reply, (change the other two to 10k) so that all of my t5 bulbs are 10k. (Also what do you think about just making two of them 12k or 14k, in place of the 460nm. I have heard good things about high growth rates for sps corals under that spectrum) Another question, I have read to keep a 1/1 ratio of daylight and actinic. Is it safe to say that is not entirely true? I'm sorry, but I did not find anything about the problems between the long tentacle anemone and the frogspawn coral on the link you provided. Is the problem that the LTA will sting the frogspawn on contact, or can there be chemical problems without contact? Is it a must to remove one or the other? Is it only the LTA that these problems exist? (or the same with a BTA) Another (kind of important) thing I forgot to mention is I have always used dip tests for nitrate and the color never changed. Since then my buddy got an electronic (Pinpoint) nitrate tester, and my nitrates are always around 13ppm. It has been that way for the 2 months that I have tested with the electronic tester. This does not seem to be the trigger for the anemones behavior, but do you think it is possible, just that it took him a while to react? The high nitrate reading was the reason for the fuge setup. It has been running now for about 20-30 days. I just took an Eclipse 6 and drilled some holes in it and installed it in-line with my filter. I put 10 lbs of medium course dry Arag to give me about 3-4 inches of substrate, but in another 2 weeks I am going to add the other half of the 20 lbs. bag. Does this sound acceptable? I do not have any macro in there now because it only has an eight watt bulb in it and I do not think that is enough . My nitrates never change no matter how many water changes I do. Is that normal? One more thing, since the start of the tank I have had bio-balls in my sump. I have never cleaned them (they are as clean as the day I installed them, and there is no light that touches them). I have recently heard that they are not that good in an established reef tank. I use the Bio Balls in my sump and never encounter nitrate problems, in fact, my nitrates are always at the residual level of the test kit.> Is that the same thing for the glass cylinders? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm James (Salty Dog)> Do you think I should take them out and pack my sump with rock rubble instead? (This would be done very slowly.)  2/15/08 Do you think that the bio-balls are a contributing factor to the nitrate problem? Thanks again, Salty Dog. I am sure you guys are tired of hearing it by now but I have to agree with everyone else and say you guys rock, and this is probably one of the best sources of reliable info online. <Thank you.> I do have one more question ( off subject but will "reply" so you have all info about tank). Like I said before, I do 10 gallon water change every 2 weeks and 5 gallons in between. That equals out to 30 gallons every 4 weeks on an 80 gallon setup. (Although I cannot have 80 gallons in my system when you figure all the displaced water because of rock and sand etc., so I am doing a good amount of water changes.) <Yes> It seems no matter what, I get a surface film build-up by the time I am ready for the next water change. The whole problem lies in the overflow box. I don't know if you are familiar with it but it is a Tom's Aquaria PS3. <Nope.> It has a skimmer but does not work that great because the overflow box does not take water right off the surface like it says it does because the slots for the intake go into the water about four inches. So it will not pull the surface film down. I cut some plexi and shoved it in there by the slots and now it pulls of the top 1 inch of the water but the u tube is so big that it keeps up with the heavy flow of the pump so that it will not pull down the surface sludge. I have stewed on this for months and the only other way I can think of doing this right is to build/buy another overflow, but I ran into big problems installing this fuge because the PS3 is just not compatible with pretty much anything. What I mean to say is you just can't "add onto" this setup like you could a big sump. So I was thinking recently about just picking up one of those 12$ Tom's Aquaria surface skimmers that hooks into a standard power filter and grabbing one of the many spare power filters I have sitting around and just letting it run for a day between water changes to pull off the film. I would have this full of activated carbon media. That should pull the organics out right? <As long as surface water is being taken in, it should.> Okay If your with me so far my question is this: I run 1 activated carbon floss pre-filter pad that I change out every 2 weeks no matter how it looks, and an activated carbon pillow that probably holds close to 2 or 3 cups of carbon that I change every month. Now I realize that is a lot of carbon to be running on a reef tank all the time but I do a lot of water changes and everything has always been fine, besides that is just another conversation altogether. So I guess the question is this, do you think running more carbon to pull the surface film will just be too much activated carbon running in my system, and also do you think that carbon would successfully remove the film without pushing that water through a skimmer? <Too much carbon, one cup would be plenty and no, the carbon isn't going to do much in the way of removing surface sludge, carbon just traps very fine particles/organic waste. Your best bet would be to invest in a protein skimmer that draws it's water from the surface. In that regard you will be removing surface scum and dissolved organics and should improve the water quality very much. AquaC is one company that offers add on surface skimmers for some of their models. Go here. www.proteinskimmer.com James (Salty Dog)>

Was Hair algae invasion, now Relocating LTA - 3/15/07 Alex (or whoever we are fortunate enough to get): <Hi Michael and Dianne, you got Alex again tonight'¦> Thanks for the recent answers about our long-haired algae invasion.  We are planning to spend this Sunday cleaning ALL the rock in the 120 with a toothbrush and, while we're at it, rearrange everything. Part of this process involves dismantling our 12-gallon nano (we prefer to give our attention to the larger tank). Since we have three clarkiis in the 120, we returned to our LFS the two small clownfish, and since we have two lawnmower blennies in the 120, we returned our algae blenny. Very sad to have to return fish we've come to enjoy watching, but preferable to seeing them die. <That is sad.  But the right thing to do.> Anyway, that leaves us with one question. Our nano has a very healthy, very happy LTA living in it. When he's wide open, he's about six inches in diameter. We are not thrilled with the idea of putting an anemone into the 120. <No'¦> However, we have a clarkii living in our Goniopora (and we are afraid he will eventually kill it). Perhaps having an anemone will encourage him to move to a more appropriate home. (Although it is kind of cute to watch him in the morning sleeping with his head on the closed-up coral like it was a pillow.) <Awww'¦> But are we making a bad decision? Should we return the LTA to the LFS instead of moving him into our reef tank? (We listed the contents of our tank in the long-haired algae communication.) <Unfortunately, it would not be a good idea to add an LTA to the reef tank.  Corals and anemones are a volatile mix in the confines of an aquarium.  Read here and linked files at top of page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltacompfaqs.htm If you are still considering getting out of the coral side of things, you could keep the LTA in the large tank, but not with the corals.  Otherwise it should go back to the LFS also if you do not want to keep another tank.> Thanks for helping us keep our tank safe and healthy for our adopted occupants! <Sincerely hoping we can help'¦ Alex> Michael and Dianne

Toadstool sys., Percula/anemone hosting 12/18/06 Hey everyone! <Greetings, Mich here.> Sorry if I ask too meany <many?> questions.  <little, nasty, or number?  I'm guessing you mean number.> I know you are busy! <How did you know?> But who else am I going to go to?...The LFS...? <Hehehe ...there are some good ones out there.>      I have an LTA. I was wandering how rare it is for p. clowns to host these? <In the wild only four species of clownfish are typically observed with this anemone, the Percula Clowns (Amphiprion percula) is not one of them.  However in an artificial environment, artificial things happen.>   I also have a green toadstool. I know, shouldn't be together. It came on a VERY small pc of rock. Too small to weight it down upright, and too small to wedge into the live rock without hurting the coral itself. I've tried super glue gel. Didn't work so well. <Yes, I have experienced this frustration also.> So I resorted to a rubber band (natural color). <Good solution!> Will there be any trouble with this being in the system? <No.  This should not cause problems.  The rubber band will dissolve with time.> Hopefully it works for a while! <It should.> The poor thing probably has fallen 5 times in a month! <and can't get up!> It is pretty secure now though. <Did it get Life Alert?> Thanks so much for your help! <You are quite welcome.> By the way, the clownfish anemone page on the chat forum isn't working! <Oh, thank you for this, will notify.> <<On WWF? On WWM; what is the URL? RMF> Keep up the good work! <We'll do our best!> Hope to meet you all one day! <It's always nice to put a face with a name.  Remember aquarium conferences are fun!  -Mich>

Anemone/LTA - 2/28/2006 Hello, <Hello Chris>  I've got an LTA that is doing excellent in my tank (anchored in the sand at the front of the tank), and is hosting two skunk clowns who love it.  I've had no problems with it and the other corals in my tank, but I've noticed it is growing huge and is getting near my Fiji leather (not touching yet).  Recently,  I read on WWM that keeping anemones in a reef tank is a bad idea, <Yes> and that it is unnatural as they are not found in the same areas of the reef.  If it's one or the other, I'd rather have the reef (an authentic one at that), so should I remove the LTA and will the clowns be affected by the sudden removal of their home? <I would remove the anemone.  It will just be a matter of time before your corals are stung.  Anemones are not necessary for clowns to survive and will do fine without one.> Are clowns found naturally in the reef, without their anemone hosts? <No> Thanks, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Chris Stevens

Reef And LTA...Not A Good Mix - 11/25/05 Good Afternoon, <<Good Morning>> I would like to buy a LTA for my 55 gallon reef, I have been looking up info for about a month now. <<Then you should have discovered these animals are best kept in species specific tanks, not reef tanks.>> Would it be alright to keep it with a Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown, Shrimp Gobi, Plate Coral, Red Mushrooms, Green Mushroom, Cabbage Coral, Yellow Polyps, Gigas Clam, Needle Algae, 2 power heads, Sea Clone 100 protein skimmer , Magnum 350 canister filter, 20 lbs. live rock, and 45 lbs live sand? <<Not in my opinion.  You should not be mixing a motile anemone with sessile invertebrates...the anemone can/will do much damage if/when it goes walkabout.  If you are serious about keeping one of the animals for the long term, do some research as to proper care and set up a tank just for the LTA.>> And I have a Condy anemone would it be possible to keep a LTA with it if not I will put in my other 20 gallon tank. <<The Condylactis anemone should not be in the reef tank either...and it definitely should not be mixed with the LTA.  EricR>>

Clowns and my LTA Hey Bob!  Dude from Miami again!  How are you bro? <Fine, thanks> Sorry, got another question for ya - I just put in my new LTA (see pic) last night and he/she is doing terrific!  (Pleasant surprise!)  Anyway, my question is:  Will my Nemo (Amphiprion ocellaris) hang with this LTA and form a relationship? <Mmm, a good possibility, though these two species are not found in natural association in the wild> I know its only been one day, and it will take time, but I'm wondering what the chances are of them hooking up.  (Nemo seems mostly interested in eating and looking cute)  And, if not, can I get a second, different type of clown that will go to the LTA, and if I can, which type of clown would be my best choice? <Yes... please take a look at the compatibility chart here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>   I've read through your FAQ's and articles on clowns, but still a little uncertain.  Will a second clown compete with Nemo, or try to kill him? <A possibility... how big is this system? If more than sixty gallons, you've got more than a 50:50 chance they'll "get along"> Or will they sex off and maybe even share the Anenome if the second one is bigger than Nemo (Nemo's quite small)? <Very unlikely> I know lots of questions/details - sorry, but I trust your opinion(s), not really anyone else's! Thanks again for all your help and the ultimate site. Dude <Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clowns and my LTA
Thanks for the response Bob!  Yeah, I have just a 55 gallon with Ecosystem filtration.  I figure a saddleback clown would be my best bet for a second, but I've also read on your FAQ's that Clarkiis go to the LTA as well. Another possibility I guess would be to get another slightly larger Nemo to pair them up, since you said its a good possibility that the ocellaris will hook up with the LTA despite not being naturally assc'd in the wild............. Thanks so much again Bob for all your help!! Dude <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Anemone troubles, induced Hey Guys. <John> Just wondering if is possible to put a Long Tentacle Anemone in the same (30gal) tank as a Condylactis anemone? <Not a good idea> also, I was wondering why my LTA appears buried in the sand all day and then when the light go's out, he curls up and comes completely out so that you can see his orange base (foot?) and doesn't bury in the sand again until the light go's back on in the morning? <Trouble... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down to the index on Anemones... READ> Thanks!   (how do I see a response to this email?) J.F. <We respond directly to all, as well as post on WWM. Bob Fenner>

LTA symbiotic relationship question I have just witnessed my Long Tentacle Anemone doing something I didn't know they did. While it was lying on a Live rock, the center of it started to enlarge (around the mouth area, when it enlarged, it was white in color (mouth area) and it looked like it had opened its mouth and leaned over to the rock and out of it's mouth came a small creature ( about the size of a Japanese beetle but with a small tail and it was as if it had a curtain around it so you couldn't see legs. It slowly moved out of the mouth and crawled up on the live rock and went into a hole in the rock. The anemone slowly raised back up and shrank in size for bout an hour. Like it had a baby or something. I haven't seen the small creature since. The anemone seems to be doing fine though. I was wondering what your thoughts were? Saltwatered in PA <There are many commensal to mutualistic organisms that live in concert with these animals... you likely saw a crustacean one. Bob Fenner>

Long Tentacled Anemone/s I have two long tentacled anemone, one which has settled in nicely. The other though is puzzling. I turned off one of my powerheads (2 in a 45 gal tank). The anemone shriveled up and my husband said it was dying. I turned on the powerhead again and it came back to life. I guess it prefers the powerhead.  Today I added some items to the tank, 5 shaving brushes, one coral beauty two horseshoe crabs (very small) and two curly q anemones, and a pencil urchin.  <Trouble... anemones are not easily kept in home-hobbyist settings... two LTA's are not compatible... mixing in the other species, disastrous> Now the anemone that played dead the other day is just floating around the tank. I have tried to get it settled, but it refuses to attach to anything and keeps floating around. It looks to be in good health, the tentacles are full with purple tips. Any ideas?  <Plenty. The U.S. should stop invading sovereign nations and realize that commerce is "king", people should turn off their teevees and exercise a great deal more. Oh, you mean re your circumstances? Yes, read... on WWM re Anemones, their systems, compatibility. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm.  Read, act, now! Bob Fenner> <<Time for an editorial page!>><Heeeee! RMF>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/s
I moved the curly q anemones and the long tentacled anemone settled down on the tank floor once again and has blossomed. I guess it just didn't like the new anemones. If push comes to shove, I'll move some to another tank. Thanks for your help. <Sounds good> By the way, I cannot do without CSI in any of its forms or Law and Order.  <Am changing my name to Bob Bruckheimer> Other than that the TV can sit dormant. As for attacking other nations, well, someone has to play nice and since people are too stupid to do that, well, the bigger of them has to be the peacemaker.. . . . <You will never make people free, create peace by murdering peoples families and children. Bob Fenner> 

Evolution, the Conversation Evolves Ok, phasing from politics to religion. . . . .people will never be free, from the beginning some were not free. <Define "freedom"> And, since we are in the last "days", these things must happen. We (Christians) know this and are ok with it. After all, it has been decided. . . by a higher power than any of us here on earth. So get on the ride, strap yourself in, and get ready, it's going to be a bumpy one!  <Heeee Heeee! I put invisible friends like the Easter Bunny and Santy Claus in the same box. Good luck, life to you. BobF> 

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