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FAQs on Long Tentacle Anemone Compatibility
Related Articles: LTAs,
Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones, Cnidarians,
Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed
Anemones, Related FAQs:
LTAs 1, LTAs 2,
LTA Identification, LTA Behavior,
LTA Selection, LTA Systems,
LTA Feeding, LTA Disease,
LTA Reproduction,
Anemones 1, Anemones 2,
Anemones 3, Anemones 4,
Bubble Tip Anemones,
Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Other Pest
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting, Anemone Feeding,
Anemone Systems,
Anemone Identification, Anemone
Compatibility,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, | 
Not nearly blind, body-oblivious fishes like Moray Eels.
Gymnomuraena zebra, the aptly named Zebra Moray is a
slow-moving chocolate black with vertical white striped beauty.
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Re: Bubble Coral Split/Long-Tentacle Anemone Removal --
10/22/2009
Thank you for your help! Justin and you, Bob, have been awesome.
<Glad to assist!>
My next question is what is "cleaving" and then, the next question has
to do with another coral I have.
<I'm fairly certain the 'cleaving' Bob referred to, would also be known
as 'fragging' -- often these individual coral polyps on these types of
LPS are broken down into individual branches, each with their own
polyp... He was recommending not to do this, as they will grow largely
as one unit if uninhibited. Do correct me if I'm wrong here, Bob!><<This
is what I intended. RMF>>
My Pagoda coral is about 9" across now, and I would like to make it
smaller. How do you recommend going about that?
<Typically done with a diamond cutting blade attached to a Dremel or
similar device -- just work slow.>
Last, but not least (sorry for the 3 part question), my anemone (whose
photo I've enclosed) has outgrown my aquarium. He is a Long Tentacle
Anemone I bought 1.5 years ago as a 2" specimen. (The clownfish in the
photo was only around 1" long and the Coris Wrasse, about 2"
long...Okay, I have to just put this in here...that male clownfish
turned into a gold barred maroon this year. They both took 3 years turn
colors and she's about 4" long now and bites. ). I have included both
photos so you can see the incredible amount of growth over a year and
half of my Long Tentacle Anemone. His rate is around 1" monthly.
The problem is, if you notice, he's outgrown his environment and I am
afraid he will begin stinging corals. I can't get him loose. I tried to
move him to his own aquarium, but I can't seem to get him to come loose,
even using a big soup spoon. He's approximately 18" tall when he's
floofing in my tank.
<Allelopathy is a very real possibility here -- I have read varying
methods for removing such anemones (or at least getting them to loosen
their grip a bit) by using somewhat direct flow from a powerhead, as
well as some ice against the glass where its foot is resting -- do be
careful with the ice suggestion, if the temperature differential is too
high, the glass could potentially crack.>
Thank you in advance for your very welcome and knowledgeable expertise.
Bonnie
<Glad to provide it! -JustinN>
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And Then There Were Six,
Chromis beh. 6/25/09
Hi Crew,
<Darryl>
I recently added 7 small (3/4 inch) Chromis Viridis to my reef tank.
Then, on their second day of residence, I watched my LTA consume one.
<What they do>
He was still breathing, very slowly, as he went down. I figured that was
the stupid one. ;-) Now I'm finding that the Chromis are sleeping with
the LTA at night.
<Also natural... associate with stinging celled life to avoid fish
predation>
Often as many as four of them in there among the tentacles. Is this
common/normal/safe behavior?
<Normal yes, safe, no... Would "hang" in and about an arborose stony
(likely an Acropora sp., perhaps a Pocillopora...) if you had one
present>
They've plenty of nooks in the LR that they're eschewing. Maybe they
know about the Stomatopod and figure the anemone is the lesser evil.
<Mmmm>
I've tried to get that darn mantis out. Traps have failed, hyposaline
dips have failed. My LFS suggested leaving the rock out to dry for a
couple hours, but that seems unlikely to work, in my opinion, and his
lair has some nice Porites sp. that I'd like to keep if possible. He's
rather small, sub-one-inch and so far and hasn't wrought so much havoc.
He walloped some hitchhiker Xanthids, but who's complaining.
I'm hoping that as he gets bigger he'll get hungrier for bait I
periodically leave out.
<Ok>
I know, now, that the LTA wasn't the wisest addition. Purple tentacles,
green and fluorescent green oral disk, about 6 inches across (on
average), bright orange base. But I've noticed that he never quite
closes his mouth. It's usually open about a centimeter. Is this gaping?
<Not necessarily>
He seems otherwise happy, hasn't moved since I buried him in the gravel,
stands up at night and flattens out during the day. I'm a bit worried
about allelopathy with the Euphyllias, Faviidae, Zoanthids, and
Sinularia in there.
<Worth consideration...>
Thanks in advance,
Darryl
<Bob Fenner>
Re: And Then There Were Six 6/27/09
Hi Bob,
<Darryl>
Thanks for your input...
<Welcome>
It seems that the chromis had the last laugh. The anemone coughed out
what was left of the fish as a whitish ball the following morning but
not before busting its gut, so to speak.
<How they... egest>
I've noticed looks like a tear along the column with a small amount of
what appears to be mesenterial filaments bulging out. I'm entirely not
sure what to make of this, but I've read ( on WWM ) that there's a good
chance that this will heal within a few weeks.
<Yes>
I'm a bit hesitant to remove it
<I would not>
to a hospital tank in this condition for fear of causing more damage.
The water parameters all appear normal/unchanged: SG = 1.023,
<I'd raise...>
pH = 8.2,
NH4 = 0, N02 = 0 NO3 = 5 mg/l, Ca = 450 mg/l.
<A bit too high... what is your Alk, dKH?>
The nem's behavior hasn't changed and there's no apparent necrosis. So
I've got my fingers crossed.
I have a couple other concerns. The Ctenochaetus strigosus has come to
regard the nem as its toilet.
<Not unnaturally>
It repeatedly defecates on the anemone, which doesn't seem to
mind/react, but this leaves a large pile of poo on the surrounding
substrate that I have to very carefully vacuum out.
<Many anemone species... make a good part of their nutritional base
thus>
Might an Anemonefish prevent this by keeping the surgeon at bay and/or
cleaning up the area around the anemone?
<Mmm, yes>
Not to mention keeping the chromis away. I've read ( WWM, again ;-) that
they often do more harm than good but I'm wondering if this is a special
case....
Finally, The shifting from my vacuuming has caused the nem to "float" to
the surface of the substrate. It's still holding on but it's only got a
grip on the surface grains and I'm afraid it will fall over when it
stands up. The nem has never been willing and/or able to sink itself
into the substrate, which is a coarse-ish crushed coral.
<Mmm, maybe put a semi-flat smooth-ish rock underneath>
The grain size varies from 1/8" to 3/8" with similarly sized shells
mixed in. Should I try to dig a hole all the way down ( about 3" ) so it
can get a good grip on the glass?
<... the rock>
Alternatively, I've considered taking a small polyethylene tub ( the
ones that CD ROMS come in ), setting the nem in that, and sinking it
into the gravel filled with soft fine oolitic aragonite. Alas, I learned
too late about the disadvantages of crushed coral.
Darryl
PS - Lighting = 4 x 39W 36" T5 HO. (2 6500K, 2 actinic). Water Depth =
12" Is this too weak, marginal, or ok for the nem?
<S/b fine>
I'm thinking marginal as it seems happy. It has never moved from where I
put him a month ago. There's no apparent bleaching, but admittedly I
have no idea how long it would take to show symptoms.
<Most captive systems are over and inappropriately illuminated intensity
wise... Bob Fenner>
Anemone Spawning Event – 4/24/08
Good day to you and everyone who
reads this.
<Hello, Brenda here!>
This was a first for me, I came
home from work to find my LTA normally the size of a dinner plate down
to the size of a cup saucer but standing up a good 10 inches with the
tentacle's tight and curly. The mouth was out about half an inch to
three quarters of an inch with white "smoke" coming out no pun intended.
This lasted for about three to four hours as it slowly went down in
size. My 72g tank now looks very milky and the skimmer has stopped
working (just like when oils from your hand get to it). So I guess my
question is: Is this sperm and what is the best way to clear my water
without over doing a water change?
<Yep, your anemone spawned! You
need to do a large water change, no other way unfortunately. I also
recommend running some fresh carbon. I would do this as soon as
possible. Keep an eye on everything, and be prepared for more water
changes. Good luck! Brenda>
LTA attacked by Choc chip star 04/07/2008
Hi,
<<Hello,
Andrew here>>
Friday we woke up to find our chocolate chip star
hovering over the spot where our LTA was. We removed the star from
that spot and could not find the LTA anywhere, not even a trace of
it. Needless to say the star went back to my LFS the same day.
<<A wise decision, very predatory>>
I was heartbroken by the loss
of our anemone. We have had it for about 8months, and it was about 8
inches in diameter and very healthy. So I bought a new anemone to
replace the old one, it is a BTA. When I returned home to acclimate
the BTA, to my surprise the LTA was out and alive! I have a 75gallon
with a snowflake eel, and volition lion, about 90lbs of live rock,
and snails for cleanup crew. The LTA does not appear happy, he will
not inflate fully, his tentacles are long and inflated though,
appears to have no injuries, has not moved from his spot, however
his mouth remains slightly open (which I am aware is not a good
sign). He does seem to inflate more as the days go on, but mouth
remains open. I placed
the BTA on the opposite side of the tank,
where he immediately attached his foot.
My questions are as
follows:
1. What precautions should I take when housing two
different anemones in the same tank?
<<Plenty of distance
between SP.>>
2. What should I do for my LTA?
<<If possible,
move to quarantine tank, target feed and monitor closely>>
3.
Will the LTA be okay?
<<Given good water parameters, staple
diet, lighting, should recover fine>>
4. What should I watch for
or be worried about?
<<The main to watch is the distance between
these two, else chemical warfare will ensue>>
I did perform a 20%
water change yesterday Sat), just to be on the safe side. I use
RO/DI water which I mix myself. All of my parameters are perfect. We
have had the tank for a year, and it has been very stable for the
past 6months. I do have a skimmer, two additional powerheads (which
are screened to avoid the anemones being sucked in) and appropriate
lighting for anemones.
Thanks in advance for your help! Love
your site
Michelle
<<Hope the above helps. If problems do
arise between the two nems in the tank, i would suggest removal of
the BTA.. Personally, i prefer to only see multiple nems in tanks of
100 gals plus, this gives plenty of room for the two to have
"plenty" of space between them>>
<<Thanks and good luck. A
Nixon>>
Re: LTA attacked by Choc chip star 04/09/2008
Hi again,
<<Hello Michelle>>
Thanks for the quick response. So for an
update: I was unable to move the LTA to quarantine because he would
not let go of the glass bottom. Today he was looking alright, then I
noticed the LTA has moved, he is still close to where he was and in
the crushed coral, still stuck to the glass bottom. When I went to
feed the rest of the tank I noticed he was not looking to good. He
was a little curled up, tentacles still inflated but he appeared
shrunken. He did happily accept a small piece of food and ate fine.
<<That's a good sign that food has been accepted, and moving is a
sign its not happy where it currently is, should find a happy spot
for itself soon enough>>
I just did a water change yesterday. I
checked my levels today and here are the results: Ammonia: 0,
Nitrites: 0, Phosphate: 0, pH: 8.3, Nitrate: 30-40!!! I know high
levels of nitrates can be harmful to anemones. How can I fix this?
<<Water changes are you new best friend here to get them lowered,
odd you have had a sudden spike up that level of nitrates. Nothing
died in the tank?>>
My water change was a 20% change (75gal tank)
Should I do another water change?
<<Please do>>
Try a buffer?
Will a vitamin boost help? What should I do? I don't want to lose my
anemone or any other occupant of the tank. Please help!
<<Adding
buffers etc is not the way forward, water changes to bring your
param.s back in line is the best thing>>
Thanks again I really
appreciate your help,
Michelle
<<Thanks, hope this helps. A
Nixon>> |
LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/12/08
I have a one year old 75
gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and into
my toms <?> aquaria PS3 BakPak filter with a skimmer. (by the way
there is pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have
a couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back
corners set on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it does
a pretty impressive job as far as getting an alternating current. I
also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that obviously
does not move, but one of the deflectors hits the current from the
Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead
on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji
and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. that
gives me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed depending
on how much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown digs up
throughout the day.
<Yes, they are good at that.>
Corals: huge
green Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or 10 months and
does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of them full
colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a large amount of
LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of Frogspawn. I also have
two rather large colonies of mushrooms.
I only have five fish
and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the LTA ever since I
put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a Diamond Spotted Goby
and a Brown Tang.
My water parameters are as follows:
cal:
400-420ppm (checked twice daily)
alk: 9-11dKH (checked twice
daily)
ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of ( pinpoint -
calibrated every 20 days)
mag: 1230-1290 (tested every 30 days)
temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer
sg: 1.024 ( tested every
water change)
I do a 10 gallon water change every 14 days with
Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of full strength
limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank every day and
supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I have to. I also
make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I have to use other
additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef Builder). I
also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine every Saturday. Everything
else should be included in water changes except mag only because of
limewater but I also have Reef Advantage Magnesium which I add as
needed.
Now to the question at hand. About nine months ago I put
in a LTA (compulsive buying), probably should not have considering
the tank was only a couple of months old. I bought it nonetheless
and for the first four months it stayed right where it went to the
first day, and it was the ideal spot that I kind of made for it,
right in the front view of the tank. The LTA stayed there for about
4-5 months and then moved to the back of the tank, pretty much
around to the other side of the rock it had always been under but
now it is in the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple of
months and then I added some rock for more coral places and in the
process halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone has
grown about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good color,
very very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a
week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at lights
out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it was the
night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially since it keeps
stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the same spot all
poofed out and looking spectacular.
<Reason why anemones and
corals don't mix.>
It should have a significant amount of light.
I can keep Acroporas alive why not an anemone. I have 474 watts all
together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt
10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic T5.
<I'd put another 10K T5 in
place of the 460 actinic.>
I just recently heard about some
chemical warfare going on in anything less than a monstrously large
aquarium housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come
they got along for so long and no problems.
<Lucky>
The
Frogspawn was in the tank before the LTA so they have been together
always and no prior problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the
light then he would end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much
brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in the sand than where he is
now.) So if he was searching around for more light why would he go
back to the same spot he was trying to leave? Although the place
where he is at now does not have much current, again there are many
more places in the tank that he could go while getting more light
and the same amount of current other than where he is now but he
always ends back where he started. By the way this all started about
7 days ago and every night it is the same thing. Another thing is
that it all takes place throughout 4 hours. After the actinics go
off he starts his climb to the top of the tank sits there for a
while and then goes right back down to the sand where he stays till
the following night. And yet another thing is that if I never looked
in my tank at night (like when I am usually asleep not standing over
my tank at all hours of the night because you just cant get enough)
then you would not even know it was happening because the next
morning it is right where it was and opens up fully and still
accepts food.
I guess I do have two easily answerable questions
besides the behavior of the anemone.
#1 will an anemone kill
itself by choosing a spot where it does not get enough light like
under a cliff or overhang?
<Very unlikely.>
#2 With only 75
gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly large
Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches
across when fully open), is this to small of a system to house them
both?
<Yes, especially with the 16" span of the anemone. Do read
here and related articles/FAQ's above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral, companies,
"i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just do not have the
time to edit queries with numerous spelling/grammar errors before
posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/13/08
wrote:
LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/12/08
I have a one year old 75 gallon
reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and into my toms
aquaria PS3 Backpack filter with a skimmer. by the way there is
pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have a couple
of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back corners set
on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it does a pretty
impressive job as far as getting an alternating current. I also have
a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that obviously does not
move, but one of the deflectors hits the current from the Hydor to
make it alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead on the
other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji and
Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. that gives
me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed depending on how
much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown digs up throughout
the day.
Corals: huge green Goniopora that has been in the tank
for 9 or 10 months and does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2
of them full colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a
large amount of LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of
Frogspawn. I also have two rather large colonies of mushrooms.
I
only have five fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the
LTA ever since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a
Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang.
My water parameters are as
follows:
cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily)
alk: 9-11dKH
(checked twice daily)
ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of (
pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days)
mag: 1230-1290 (tested every
30 days)
temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer
sg: 1.024 (
tested every water change)
I do a 10 gallon water change every 14
days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of
full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank every
day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I have to. I
also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I have to use
other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef
Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine every Saturday.
Everything else should be included in water changes except mag only
because of limewater but I also have Reef Advantage Magnesium which
I add as needed.
Now to the question at hand. About nine months
ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying), probably should not have
considering the tank was only a couple of months old. I bought it
nonetheless and for the first four months it stayed right where it
went to the first day, and it was the ideal spot that I kind of made
for it, right in the front view of the tank. The LTA stayed there
for about 4-5 months and then moved to the back of the tank, pretty
much around to the other side of the rock it had always been under
but now it is in the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple
of months and then I added some rock for more coral places and in
the process halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone
has grown about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good
color, very very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1
time a week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at
lights out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it
was the
night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially
since it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the
same spot all poofed out and looking spectacular.
It should have
a significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not an
anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt
420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic
T5.
I just recently heard about some chemical warfare going on in
anything less than a monstrously large aquarium housing both
Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got along for so
long and no problems.
The Frogspawn was in the tank before the
LTA so they have been together always and no prior problems. If my
anemone is unhappy with the light then he would end up in a brighter
spot, ( there are much brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in
the sand than where he is now.) So if he was searching around for
more light why would he go back to the same spot he was trying to
leave? Although the place where he is at now does not have much
current, again there are many more places in the tank that he could
go while getting more light and the same amount of current other
than where he is now but he always ends back where he started. By
the way this all started about 7 days ago and every night it is the
same thing. Another thing is that it all takes place throughout 4
hours. After the actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of
the tank sits there for a while and then goes right back down to the
sand where he stays till the following night. And yet another thing
is that if I
never looked in my tank at night (like when I am
usually asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the night
because you just cant get enough) then you would not even know it
was happening because the next morning it is right where it was and
opens up fully and still accepts food.
I guess I do have two
easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the anemone.
#1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where it does not
get enough light like under a cliff or overhang?
#2 With only 75
gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly large
Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches
across when fully open), is this to small of a system to house them
both?
In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral,
companies, "i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just do
not have the time to edit queries with numerous spelling/grammar
errors before posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you
for the info, Salty Dog, and I will try to be a little more careful
in the future.
<You're welcome.>
Sorry about the
misinformation but my t5s are 54 watts each and four of them (HO-2
10k, and 2 460nm). Does that matter or still the same reply, (change
the other two to 10k) so that all of my t5 bulbs are 10k. (Also what
do you think about just making two of them 12k or 14k, in place of
the 460nm.
<I'd go with one actinic rather than two. Many folks
have just gone with all 14K lamps with good results. I just run two
14K MH's on my tank.>
I have heard good things about high growth
rates for sps corals under that spectrum)
Another question, I
have read to keep a 1/1 ratio of daylight and actinic. Is it safe to
say that is not entirely true?
<Believe that is dated info with
the advent of the 10K-20K lamps.>
I'm sorry, but I did not find
anything about the problems between the long tentacle anemone and
the frogspawn coral on the link you provided. Is the problem that
the LTA will sting the frogspawn on contact, or can there be
chemical problems without contact?
Is it a must to remove one or
the other?
<Problem is, when the anemone moves, it stings
everything along the way. As far as corals, there will always be
some allelopathy going on. The use of a skimmer and/or high quality
carbon/resin such as Chemi-Pure goes a long way in removing these
allelopathic compounds.>
Is it only the LTA that these problems
exist? (or the same with a BTA)
<If you mean stinging this is
true with most anemones.>
Another (kind of important) thing I
forgot to mention is I have always used dip tests for nitrate and
the color never changed. Since then my buddy got an electronic
(Pinpoint) nitrate tester, and my nitrates are always around 13ppm.
It has been that way for the 2 months that I have tested with the
electronic tester. This does not seem to be the trigger for the
anemones behavior, but do you think it is possible, just that it
took him a while to react?
<No, a nitrate reading of 13ppm is not
all that bad but best to keep it under 10ppm.>
The high nitrate
reading was the reason for the fuge setup. It has been running now
for about 20-30 days. I just took an Eclipse 6 and drilled some
holes in it and installed it in-line with my filter. I put 10 lbs of
medium course dry Arag to give me about 3-4 inches of substrate, but
in another 2 weeks I am going to add the other half of the 20 lbs.
bag.
Does this sound acceptable? I do not have any macro in there
now because it only has an eight watt bulb in it and I do not think
that is enough <enough>.
<As long as the bulb is a PC, it should
be enough.>
My nitrates never change no matter how many water
changes I do. Is that normal?
<Can be. Do you ever vacuum the
substrate? This area is one of the biggest causes of nitrates. If
you use mechanical filtration and do not clean/change pads weekly,
the trapped waste will turn into dissolved organics.>
One more
thing, since the start of the tank I have had bio-balls in my sump.
I have never cleaned them (they are as clean as the day I installed
them, and there is no light that touches them). I have recently
heard that they are not that good in an established reef tank.
<In my opinion, the bio balls alone are not going to create high
nitrate levels. Bio Balls do not produce waste. Most folks do not
use Bio Balls if live rock is used. There is enough beneficial
bacteria on the rock to take care of the nitrification process.
I
use the Bio Balls in my sump and never encounter nitrate problems,
in fact, my nitrates are always at the residual level of the test
kit.>
Is that the same thing for the glass cylinders?
<The
glass cylinders can trap very small particles of waste. Some say
they are efficient at removing nitrates. I've never tried them so I
cannot comment. The best way to lower the nitrate level is by
lowering the nutrient level in the system. Do read this link.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Do you think I should take them out and pack my sump with rock
rubble instead? (This would be done very slowly.)
Do you think
that the bio-balls are a contributing factor to the nitrate problem? |
Re: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/13/08
I have a one year old
75 gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and
into my toms aquaria PS3 Backpack filter with a skimmer. by the way
there is pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have
a couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back
corners set on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it does
a pretty impressive job as far as getting an alternating current. I
also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that obviously
does not move, but one of the deflectors hits the current from the
Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead
on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji
and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. (that
gives me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed depending
on how much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown digs up
throughout the day.
Corals: huge green Goniopora that has been in
the tank for 9 or 10 months and does great, 4 chunks of different
acropora (2 of them full colonies), and a hand size chunk of
Hydnophora and a large amount of LPS corals including a 15 headed
branch of Frogspawn. I also have two rather large colonies of
mushrooms.
I only have five fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes
that live in the LTA ever since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line
Wrasse, a Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang.
My water
parameters are as follows:
cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily)
alk: 9-11dKH (checked twice daily)
ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when
10k shut of ( pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days)
mag: 1230-1290
(tested every 30 days)
temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer
sg: 1.024 ( tested every water change)
I do a 10 gallon water
change every 14 days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add
2 liters of full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my
tank every day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I
have to. I also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I have
to use other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef
Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine every Saturday.
Everything else should be included in water changes except mag only
because of limewater but I also have Reef Advantage Magnesium which
I add as needed.
Now to the question at hand. About nine months
ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying), probably should not have
considering the tank was only a couple of months old. I bought it
nonetheless and for the first four months it stayed right where it
went to the first day, and it was the ideal spot that I kind of made
for it, right in the front view of the tank. The LTA stayed there
for about 4-5 months and then moved to the back of the tank, pretty
much around to the other side of the rock it had always been under
but now it is in the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple
of months and then I added some rock for more coral places and in
the process halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone
has grown about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good
color, very very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1
time a week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at
lights out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it
was the
night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially
since it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the
same spot all poofed out and looking spectacular.
It should have
a significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not an
anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt
420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic
T5.
I just recently heard about some chemical warfare going on in
anything less than a monstrously large aquarium housing both
Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got along for so
long and no problems.
The Frogspawn was in the tank before the
LTA so they have been together always and no prior problems. If my
anemone is unhappy with the light then he would end up in a brighter
spot, ( there are much brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in
the sand than where he is now.) So if he was searching around for
more light why would he go back to the same spot he was trying to
leave? Although the place where he is at now does not have much
current, again there are many more places in the tank that he could
go while getting more light and the same amount of current other
than where he is now but he always ends back where he started. By
the way this all started about 7 days ago and every night it is the
same thing. Another thing is that it all takes place throughout 4
hours. After the actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of
the tank sits there for a while and then goes right back down to the
sand where he stays till the following night. And yet another thing
is that if I
never looked in my tank at night (like when I am
usually asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the night
because you just cant get enough) then you would not even know it
was happening because the next morning it is right where it was and
opens up fully and still accepts food.
I guess I do have two
easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the anemone.
#1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where it does not
get enough light like under a cliff or overhang?
#2 With only 75
gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly large
Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches
across when fully open), is this to small of a system to house them
both?
In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral,
companies, "i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just do
not have the time to edit queries with numerous spelling/grammar
errors before posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank
you for the info, Salty Dog, and I will try to be a little more
careful in the future.
Sorry about the misinformation but my t5s
are 54 watts each and four of them (HO-2 10k, and 2 460nm). Does
that matter or still the same reply, (change the other two to 10k)
so that all of my t5 bulbs are 10k. (Also what do you think about
just making two of them 12k or 14k, in place of the 460nm.
I have
heard good things about high growth rates for sps corals under that
spectrum)
Another question, I have read to keep a 1/1 ratio of
daylight and actinic. Is it safe to say that is not entirely true?
I'm sorry, but I did not find anything about the problems between
the long tentacle anemone and the frogspawn coral on the link you
provided. Is the problem that the LTA will sting the frogspawn on
contact, or can there be chemical problems without contact?
Is
it a must to remove one or the other?
Is it only the LTA that
these problems exist? (or the same with a BTA)
Another (kind of
important) thing I forgot to mention is I have always used dip tests
for nitrate and the color never changed. Since then my buddy got an
electronic (Pinpoint) nitrate tester, and my nitrates are always
around 13ppm. It has been that way for the 2 months that I have
tested with the electronic tester. This does not seem to be the
trigger for the anemones behavior, but do you think it is possible,
just that it took him a while to react?
The high nitrate reading
was the reason for the fuge setup. It has been running now for about
20-30 days. I just took an Eclipse 6 and drilled some holes in it
and installed it in-line with my filter. I put 10 lbs of medium
course dry Arag to give me about 3-4 inches of substrate, but in
another 2 weeks I am going to add the other half of the 20 lbs. bag.
Does this sound acceptable? I do not have any macro in there now
because it only has an eight watt bulb in it and I do not think that
is enough .
My nitrates never change no matter how many water
changes I do. Is that normal?
One more thing, since the start of
the tank I have had bio-balls in my sump. I have never cleaned them
(they are as clean as the day I installed them, and there is no
light that touches them). I have recently heard that they are not
that good in an established reef tank.
I use the Bio Balls in my
sump and never encounter nitrate problems, in fact, my nitrates are
always at the residual level of the test kit.>
Is that the same
thing for the glass cylinders?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Do you think I should take them out and pack my sump with rock
rubble instead? (This would be done very slowly.) 2/15/08
Do you think that the bio-balls are a contributing factor to the
nitrate problem?
Thanks again, Salty Dog. I am sure you guys are
tired of hearing it by now but I have to agree with everyone else
and say you guys rock, and this is probably one of the best sources
of reliable info online.
<Thank you.>
I do have one more
question ( off subject but will "reply" so you have all info about
tank). Like I said before, I do 10 gallon water change every 2 weeks
and 5 gallons in between. That equals out to 30 gallons every 4
weeks on an 80 gallon setup. (Although I cannot have 80 gallons in
my system when you figure all the displaced water because of rock
and sand etc., so I am doing a good amount of water changes.)
<Yes>
It seems no matter what, I get a surface film build-up by
the time I am ready for the next water change. The whole problem
lies in the overflow box. I don't know if you are familiar with it
but it is a Tom's Aquaria PS3.
<Nope.>
It has a skimmer but
does not work that great because the overflow box does not take
water right off the surface like it says it does because the slots
for the intake go into the water about four inches. So it will not
pull the surface film down. I cut some plexi and shoved it in there
by the slots and now it pulls of the top 1 inch of the water but the
u tube is so big that it keeps up with the heavy flow of the pump so
that it will not pull down the surface sludge. I have stewed on this
for months and the only other way I can think of doing this right is
to build/buy another overflow, but I ran into big problems
installing this fuge because the PS3 is just not compatible with
pretty much anything. What I mean to say is you just can't "add
onto" this setup like you could a big sump. So I was thinking
recently about just picking up one of those
12$ Tom's Aquaria
surface skimmers that hooks into a standard power filter and
grabbing one of the many spare power filters I have sitting around
and just letting it run for a day between water changes to pull off
the film. I would have this full of activated carbon media. That
should pull the organics out right?
<As long as surface water is
being taken in, it should.>
Okay If your with me so far my
question is this:
I run 1 activated carbon floss pre-filter pad
that I change out every 2 weeks no matter how it looks, and an
activated carbon pillow that probably holds close to 2 or 3 cups of
carbon that I change every month. Now I realize that is a lot of
carbon to be running on a reef tank all the time but I do a lot of
water changes and everything has always been fine, besides that is
just another conversation altogether. So I guess the question is
this, do you think running more carbon to pull the surface film will
just be too much activated carbon running in my system, and also do
you think that carbon would successfully remove the film without
pushing that water through a skimmer?
<Too much carbon, one cup
would be plenty and no, the carbon isn't going to do much in the way
of removing surface sludge, carbon just traps very fine
particles/organic waste.
Your best bet would be to invest in a
protein skimmer that draws it's water from the surface. In that
regard you will be removing surface scum and dissolved organics and
should improve the water quality very much. AquaC is one company
that offers add on surface skimmers for some of their models. Go
here. www.proteinskimmer.com
James (Salty Dog)> |
Was Hair algae invasion, now Relocating LTA - 3/15/07
Alex (or
whoever we are fortunate enough to get):
<Hi Michael and Dianne, you
got Alex again tonight…>
Thanks for the recent answers about our
long-haired algae invasion. We are planning to spend this Sunday
cleaning ALL the rock in the 120 with a toothbrush and, while we're at
it, rearrange everything.
Part of this process involves dismantling
our 12-gallon nano (we prefer to give our attention to the larger tank).
Since we have three clarkiis in the 120, we returned to our LFS the two
small clownfish, and since we have two lawnmower blennies in the 120, we
returned our algae blenny. Very sad to have to return fish we've come to
enjoy watching, but preferable to seeing them die.
<That is
sad. But the right thing to do.>
Anyway, that leaves us with one
question. Our nano has a very healthy, very happy LTA living in it. When
he's wide open, he's about six inches in diameter. We are not thrilled
with the idea of putting an anemone into the 120.
<No…>
However,
we have a clarkii living in our Goniopora (and we are afraid he will
eventually kill it). Perhaps having an anemone will encourage him to
move to a more appropriate home. (Although it is kind of cute to watch
him in the morning sleeping with his head on the closed-up coral like it
was a pillow.)
<Awww…>
But are we making a bad decision? Should
we return the LTA to the LFS instead of moving him into our reef tank?
(We listed the contents of our tank in the long-haired algae
communication.)
<Unfortunately, it would not be a good idea to add
an LTA to the reef tank. Corals and anemones are a volatile mix in the
confines of an aquarium. Read here and linked files at top of page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltacompfaqs.htm
If you are still
considering getting out of the coral side of things, you could keep the
LTA in the large tank, but not with the corals. Otherwise it should go
back to the LFS also if you do not want to keep another tank.>
Thanks for helping us keep our tank safe and healthy for our adopted
occupants!
<Sincerely hoping we can help… Alex>
Michael and
Dianne Toadstool sys., Percula/anemone hosting 12/18/06
Hey everyone!
<Greetings, Mich here.>
Sorry if I ask too meany
<many?> questions. <little, nasty, or number? I'm guessing you mean
number.>
I know you are busy!
<How did you know?>
But who
else am I going to go to?...The LFS...?
<Hehehe ...there are some
good ones out there.>
I have an LTA. I was
wandering how rare it is for p. clowns to host these?
<In the wild
only four species of clownfish are typically observed with this anemone,
the Percula Clowns (Amphiprion percula) is not one of them. However in
an artificial environment, artificial things happen.>
I also have
a green toadstool. I know, shouldn't be together.
It came on a VERY
small pc of rock. Too small to weight it down upright, and too small to
wedge into the live rock without hurting the coral itself. I've tried
super glue gel. Didn't work so well.
<Yes, I have experienced this
frustration also.>
So I resorted to a rubber band (natural color).
<Good solution!>
Will there be any trouble with this being in the
system?
<No. This should not cause problems. The rubber band will
dissolve with time.>
Hopefully it works for a while!
<It
should.>
The poor thing probably has fallen 5 times in a month!
<and can't get up!>
It is pretty secure now though.
<Did it get
Life Alert?>
Thanks so much for your help!
<You are quite
welcome.>
By the way, the clownfish anemone page on the chat forum
isn't working!
<Oh, thank you for this, will notify.> <<On WWF? On
WWM; what is the URL? RMF>
Keep up the good work!
<We'll do our
best!>
Hope to meet you all one day!
<It's always nice to put a
face with a name. Remember aquarium conferences are fun! -Mich>
Anemone/LTA - 2/28/2006
Hello, <Hello Chris> I've got an LTA
that is doing excellent in my tank (anchored in the sand at the front of
the tank), and is hosting two skunk clowns who love it. I've had no
problems with it and the other corals in my tank, but I've noticed it is
growing huge and is getting near my Fiji leather (not touching
yet). Recently, I read on WWM that keeping anemones in a reef tank is
a bad idea, <Yes> and that it is unnatural as they are not found in the
same areas of the reef. If it's one or the other, I'd rather have the
reef (an authentic one at that), so should I remove the LTA and will the
clowns be affected by the sudden removal of their home? <I would remove
the anemone. It will just be a matter of time before your corals are
stung. Anemones are not necessary for clowns to survive and will do
fine without one.> Are clowns found naturally in the reef, without their
anemone hosts? <No>
Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris Stevens
Reef And LTA...Not A Good Mix - 11/25/05
Good Afternoon,
<<Good Morning>>
I would like to buy a LTA for
my 55 gallon reef, I have been looking up info for about a month now.
<<Then you should have discovered these animals are best kept in species
specific tanks, not reef tanks.>>
Would it be alright to keep it
with a Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown, Shrimp Gobi, Plate Coral, Red
Mushrooms, Green Mushroom, Cabbage Coral, Yellow Polyps, Gigas Clam,
Needle Algae, 2 power heads, Sea Clone 100 protein skimmer , Magnum 350
canister filter, 20 lbs. live rock, and 45 lbs live sand?
<<Not in
my opinion. You should not be mixing a motile anemone with sessile
invertebrates...the anemone can/will do much damage if/when it goes
walkabout. If you are serious about keeping one of the animals for the
long term, do some research as to proper care and set up a tank just for
the LTA.>>
And I have a Condy anemone would it be possible to keep a
LTA with it if not I will put in my other 20 gallon tank.
<<The
Condylactis anemone should not be in the reef tank either...and it
definitely should not be mixed with the LTA. EricR>> Clowns
and my LTA
Hey Bob! Dude from Miami again! How are you bro?
<Fine, thanks>
Sorry, got another question for ya - I just put in my
new LTA (see pic) last night and he/she is doing terrific! (Pleasant
surprise!) Anyway, my question is: Will my Nemo (Amphiprion ocellaris)
hang with this LTA and form a relationship?
<Mmm, a good possibility,
though these two species are not found in natural association in the
wild>
I know its only been one day, and it will take time, but I'm
wondering what the chances are of them hooking up. (Nemo seems mostly
interested in eating and looking cute) And, if not, can I get a second,
different type of clown that will go to the LTA, and if I can, which
type of clown would be my best choice?
<Yes... please take a look at
the compatibility chart here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
I've read through your FAQ's and articles on clowns, but still a
little uncertain. Will a second clown compete with Nemo, or try to kill
him?
<A possibility... how big is this system? If more than sixty
gallons, you've got more than a 50:50 chance they'll "get along">
Or
will they sex off and maybe even share the Anenome if the second one is
bigger than Nemo (Nemo's quite small)?
<Very unlikely>
I know lots
of questions/details - sorry, but I trust your opinion(s), not really
anyone else's!
Thanks again for all your help and the ultimate site.
Dude
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Re: Clowns and my LTA
Thanks for the response Bob! Yeah, I have just a 55 gallon with
Ecosystem filtration. I figure a saddleback clown would be my best bet
for a second, but I've also read on your FAQ's that Clarkiis go to the
LTA as well.
Another possibility I guess would be to get another
slightly larger Nemo to pair them up, since you said its a good
possibility that the ocellaris will hook up with the LTA despite not
being naturally assc'd in the
wild.............
Thanks so much
again Bob for all your help!!
Dude
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Anemone troubles, induced
Hey Guys.
<John>
Just
wondering if is possible to put a Long Tentacle Anemone in the same
(30gal) tank as a Condylactis anemone?
<Not a good idea>
also, I
was wondering why my LTA appears buried in the sand all day and then
when the light go's out, he curls up and comes completely out so that
you can see his orange base (foot?) and doesn't bury in the sand again
until the light go's back on in the morning?
<Trouble... Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
scroll down
to the index on Anemones... READ>
Thanks!
(how do I
see a response to this email?)
J.F.
<We respond directly to all,
as well as post on WWM. Bob Fenner> LTA symbiotic
relationship question
I have just witnessed my Long Tentacle
Anemone doing something I didn't know they did. While it was lying on a
Live rock, the center of it started to enlarge (around the mouth area,
when it enlarged, it was white in color (mouth area) and it looked like
it had opened its mouth and leaned over to the rock and out of it's
mouth came a small creature ( about the size of a Japanese beetle but
with a small tail and it was as if it had a curtain around it so you
couldn't see legs. It slowly moved out of the mouth and crawled up on
the live rock and went into a hole in the rock. The anemone slowly
raised back up and shrank in size for bout an hour. Like it had a baby
or something. I haven't seen the small creature since. The anemone seems
to be doing fine though. I was wondering what your thoughts were?
Saltwatered in PA
<There are many commensal to mutualistic organisms
that live in concert with these animals... you likely saw a crustacean
one. Bob Fenner> Long Tentacled Anemone/s
I have two
long tentacled anemone, one which has settled in nicely. The other
though is puzzling. I turned off one of my powerheads (2 in a 45 gal
tank). The anemone shriveled up and my husband said it was dying. I
turned on the powerhead again and it came back to life. I guess it
prefers the powerhead. Today I added some items to the tank, 5
shaving brushes, one coral beauty two horseshoe crabs (very small) and
two curly q anemones, and a pencil urchin.
<Trouble... anemones are
not easily kept in home-hobbyist settings... two LTA's are not
compatible... mixing in the other species, disastrous>
Now the
anemone that played dead the other day is just floating around the tank.
I have tried to get it settled, but it refuses to attach to anything and
keeps floating around. It looks to be in good health, the tentacles are
full with purple tips. Any ideas?
<Plenty. The U.S. should stop
invading sovereign nations and realize that commerce is "king", people
should turn off their teevees and exercise a great deal more. Oh, you
mean re your circumstances? Yes, read... on WWM re Anemones, their
systems, compatibility. Start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm. Read,
act, now! Bob Fenner>
<<Time for an editorial page!>><Heeeee!
RMF> Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/s
I moved the curly q
anemones and the long tentacled anemone settled down on the tank floor
once again and has blossomed. I guess it just didn't like the new
anemones. If push comes to shove, I'll move some to another tank. Thanks
for your help.
<Sounds good>
By the way, I cannot do without CSI
in any of its forms or Law and Order.
<Am changing my name to Bob
Bruckheimer>
Other than that the TV can sit dormant. As for attacking
other nations, well, someone has to play nice and since people are too
stupid to do that, well, the bigger of them has to be the peacemaker.. .
. .
<You will never make people free, create peace by murdering
peoples families and children. Bob Fenner> Evolution, the
Conversation Evolves
Ok, phasing from politics to religion. . . .
.people will never be free, from the beginning some were not free.
<Define "freedom">
And, since we are in the last "days", these things
must happen. We (Christians) know this and are ok with it. After all, it
has been decided. . . by a higher power than any of us here on earth. So
get on the ride, strap yourself in, and get ready, it's going to be a
bumpy one!
<Heeee Heeee! I put invisible friends like the Easter
Bunny and Santy Claus in the same box. Good luck, life to you. BobF>
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