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FAQs about Canister, Cartridge Filters For Marine Systems,
Rationale/Use Related
Articles: Physical Filtration, Review
of the ViaAqua Canister Filter,
Related FAQs: Canister Filters 1,
Canister Filters 2, Canister Filters
3, Outside Power Filters, &
FAQs on: Placement,
Media, Plumbing,
Maintenance, Troubleshooting/Repair,
By Manufacturer: Eheim,
Fluval, Other Brands, |
Canister, cartridge type filters are useful as mechanical, and to a
degree biological adjuncts for otherwise well-set-up and maintained
(and other-filtered) marine systems |
Flow Rate – 09/25/09
Sir,
<<Hiya Rod…no need to be quite so formal, mate>>
In your responses you state that the water turnover should be 4 to 6
times the tank size.
<<Hmm, have you corresponded on this with someone previously? Do please
include prior related correspondence with your submissions so we can
refer them to the appropriate crew member. But to get back to your
statement… There are no hard and fast rules re water flow in aquaria.
Like so many other factors, it to needs to be tailored to the
occupants>>
I have a 75 gal tank so flow should be over 300 gph, if I figured right.
<<Maybe so…not enough data here for me to give an informed reply>>
Then how is an Eheim 2215 with a flow of 165 gph supposed to be good for
up to a 95gal tank?
<<This rating is for the “filtering capacity” of this canister
filter…and has nothing to do with whether it provides “adequate flow”
for any particular system>>
Do I really need 2 of them?
<<To filter a heavily stocked system…very possibly, yes. But if only
more “flow” is needed/desired, there are better methods/devices for
this. Have you read here, and among the associated links
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm)?>>
Thanks,
Rod
<<Happy to share… EricR>
Flow Rate – 09/25/09
Thanks for the quick response.
<<Quite welcome>>
Sorry for the lack of info. But that answered my question; they are
looking at filtering capabilities not flow.
<<Ah…very good then>>
Keep up the good work.
<<We’re trying>>
I use the planted advice all the time.
Thanks again,
Rod
<<Cheers, EricR>>
Canister Filter Questions: Eheim in a SW setup. 4/23/2009
Hi,
<Hi Sherri.>
I just purchased an aquarium on Craig's list and got it home and now
I need help.
<OK>
I had a Oceanic Saltwater aquarium several years ago and I actually
had a lot of luck with it and would like to try one again.
<Welcome back to the hobby.>
This aquarium is about 100 gal and it has the EHEIM Professional
2226 filter.
<An excellent filter when properly maintained.>
My question is can this filter be used for a Saltwater tank?
<It can be used for a saltwater tank provided it does not have the
integrated heater.>
If so what other things do I need, like a Protein skimmer and what?
<You should definitely use a protein skimmer. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm >
Any help at this point would be great and as I said I am familiar
with the saltwater tank but I had the Oceanic where everything was
built-in on the back of it...I looked at the EHEIM site and can not
find if this filter can be used for Saltwater or if it is Freshwater
only. If you know please let me know so I can get it set-up.
<It will be fine for saltwater. Do realize that while canister
filters are useful for a saltwater setup, they do need more frequent
maintenance - it will need to be cleaned every week to two weeks.>
Thanks
<My pleasure>
Sherri
<Mike>
Ocean Clear Filter/Use Or Not To Use 3/6/09
Good Morning
Crew!
<Good morning, Jeff>
My question deals with a use of an Ocean Clear
canister filter.
I am replacing my current 120 gallon reef system that I
purchased used, is horribly scratched, and terribly plumbed, for a new Oceanic
System.
I would like to keep things simple, as I am home often, and stick to
routine water changes and maintenance religiously.
I have been using an Ocean
Clear canister filter on my current system, and would really like to eliminate
it from my new system if possible, and advised.
<OK>
There are a couple of
factors involved in my consideration of leaving the Ocean Clear out, as follows:
If I use the Ocean Clear and a 30 gallon tank as a sump, the sump will have to
sit kitty corner in the tank stand in order to fit the Ocean Clear.
This
makes it a bit more difficult to get at the father corner of the sump which is
where the Refugium is located. I am quadriplegic, and require help in
maintaining my system, so I like to keep things as efficient as possible.
<Understandably.>
What a good amount of sponge/filter media in the sump be
sufficient, even though I would have to remove and clean it more often than I
would the Ocean Clear?
My other option is to use a 20 gallon long tank for a
sump with no Refugium, that would leave me room for the Ocean Clear on the end
as a 20 gallon long is 30".
My feelings are that the larger the sump, the
better.
<Yes, more water in the system and capacity for unexpected shut
downs.>
Also, a Refugium built into the sump would be a plus, am I correct on
this?
<Would be a big plus.>
I will greatly appreciate your expert advice.
<The micron filter systems are great for sparkling clear water. On the other
hand they need to be maintained at least weekly. If not, the trapped waste will
soon elevate nitrate levels once decomposition starts. Cleaning isn't much fun
as the filter needs to be soaked in a bleach/water mixture for 24 hours and then
a rinsing and soaking in freshwater to make it safe for re-use. I would keep the
30 gallon sump and refugium and incorporate an efficient protein skimmer in the
system if you are not already using one. You can use the sponge, but again, this
will require weekly maintenance and would not be necessary if a protein skimmer
is in use along with an ample clean up crew to tidy up.
I do not use any
mechanical filtering in my tank for the reasons stated above.>
Thank you for
your help, and the fantastic website.
<You're welcome, Jeff, and thank you
for your fine errorless writing. Is much appreciated.
James (Salty Dog)>
Jeff Castaldo
Canister Filter in a Reef 20g 12/8/08
Hi There,
<Carlos.>
I've been reading your site for years, it's a wealth of
information.
<Thank you.>
My question is about canister filters in reef
setups. I have a 20 gallon that had a wet dry with a bit of Seachem's Matrix.
All was fine till I had some nice 150w MH so had to get rid of the wet dry and
bought a canister filter. I added the Matrix I had to the new canister filter,
included some Purigen and active carbon and a week
later added more
Matrix totaling 1Kg.
2 weeks later my nitrate went from 20 to over 50.
<...>
I have been doing 30% water changes ever since but to no avail.
<What does your change water read re nitrate?>
I clean the entire canister
filter every fortnight, and floss every week, should I just turn off the
canister filter and run with just a pump in the tank or give it more time (7
weeks now)?
<Do you have any other means of biofiltration, live rock
perhaps?>
I am not over feeding, in fact I've stopped feeding my corals to
see if it helps.
<The nitrate is coming from somewhere, feeding corals or
fish, makeup water.>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Cheers,
Carlos
<Do write back regarding any other biomedia and your water tests on
the change water. More info needed here. Scott V.> Re: Canister
Filter in a Reef 20g 12/9/08
Hi Scott,
<Hello Carlos.>
Thanks for your reply,
<Welcome.>
I have over 8 Kgs of premium
live rock, nice and purple.
<With this amount of LR in a 20 you
certainly could remove the Matrix, it is likely just sitting there
collecting detritus, not helping your nitrate issue.>
To aid
circulation I have 1 Tunze 6025 powerhead. My makeup water is from NSW
from mid north coast of Australia, I tested it and it has 0 nitrates, my
makeup water for evaporation has 0 nitrates as well and I add Prime to
it.
<Another possible source. While NSW has its benefits, it also
has its risks. One of which is die off in the water itself. See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seawater.htm and the above links.>
I also
have a bit of Caulerpa in there to help with the nitrates. As a
scientist my self, I am stumped :(
Thanks once a again,
Carlos
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Sorry forgot to mention, I add 2 smallish pieces
of live rock in there 3 weeks after adding the canister filter, could
this have caused this huge spike?
<Certainly, yes. Depending on the
point that these rocks were �procured�, this certainly could be the
source.> Re: Live Rock... actually canister filter use, SW
10/20/08
I also have a large Fluval FX5 external filter.
What would you suggest I do with it.
<Run it empty if you want, just
water movement.>
Should I fill it with filter media or use it with
nothing in it for water movement.
<They are a bit of maintenance
nightmares, need to be cleaned often (weekly), so the less stuff to trap
detritus the better.>
Kenny
<Chris>
Sump or Canister filter or both? 8/24/08
Hello again guys, I've
been doing a lot of research lately and I'm feeling really stupid right
now. When I started into the saltwater hobby I was evidently told all
the wrong things. Ok, here we go. I have a 46g bow front with no sump, a
BakPak 2 protein skimmer and a canister filter plus about 45 to 50
pounds of live rock and live sand for the substrate. I was told this is
basically all I needed.
DUH!!!.
<This setup can be quite
successful, not that bad.>
I'm currently in the process of getting my
newly acquired calcium reactor up and running but have decided to hold
off until other problems are solved. First, I would like to know what I
need exactly to get this thing right. Sump, canister filter or a wet/dry
filter, or a combination?
<If you wish to upgrade, a simple sump
will do. This can house your reactor, skimmer, heater, etc. While you
are at it, do consider incorporating a fishless macroalgae refugium,
these can work wonders. No wet/dry needed, you rock takes care of that,
the canister can be used for mechanical filtration and running carbon if
you wish, but will need to be cleaned very frequently as to not allow
detritus to accumulate, leading to nitrate production. Do also keep in
mind that a sump/refugium can be something as simple as a $5 plastic bin
or cheap 20 gallon aquarium, no need to spend several hundreds of
dollars on acrylic unless you want to.>
I eventually want to put
corals in this system so I want the setup to be right. My canister
filter is on its last legs and I've been pricing the Eheim pro's but if
this type of filter is not good then I could easily spend the money on a
sump or wet/dry and overflow box plus pumps and plumbing.
<I would
rather see you invest in a sump and overflow setup with this rather than
another canister. Also, do consider drilling this tank for an overflow
before you stock a bunch of corals in it!.>
Please help this poor
misguided fool!
Craig
<It sounds like you are on the right track,
Scott V.> Re: Sump or Canister filter
or both? 8/24/08
Thank you for the quick response.
<Welcome.>
I have a few more questions though. I've read that the live rock
shouldn't be placed directly on the LS due to trapping dangerous gases.
This is how my current setup is. I would have to change it I know, but
do I save the sand by vacuuming it very well or should I just replace
it? Should I replace the LR as well or remove it and scrub it down and
hope for the best? The rock should be raised up above the LS correct?
Then just arrange the LS around the LR or leave the LS out all together
and place the rock on the glass?
<Hmmm, the only real danger comes if
you wish to have digging critters in the tank. They can dig beneath a
rock, leading to a rockslide in your tank. You may put the rock in your
tank and then add the sand if you wish for your aquascaping to be more
stable. Use the same rock and sand, no need to change.>
As far as a
sump goes, what needs to be in it besides a return pump? I know I can
place the skimmer in it and the return line from the reactor but I've
read that bio bale or balls are not good.
<Nope, your live rock will
provide biofiltration.>
My protein skimmer has bale, should I remove
it?
<I would. This stuff is in there just as much to prevent
microbubbles as anything. With the skimmer in your sump this should not
be an issue. Also, do pay attention to the water level relative to the
skimmer, this can make a huge difference.>
Should carbon go into the
sump or some kind of phosphate remover?
<Carbon if you run it.
Phosphate removers should be used with caution and water testing. It is
easy to strip the water of phosphate, it is a required compound.>
I've been searching around some sites looking for a sump and overflow
boxes, what is your opinion on these? CPR CS50 300gph and the CPR CS90
600gph for the overflow and a Eshopps RS-75 10gal sump.
<They will
all work, use double what you will need incase one fails, likely in time
one will. Also, plan on an actual flow of 300 gph per 1” bulkhead, this
is the size these boxes typically use. Do consider the drilling I
mentioned before, check out my site: Glass-Holes.com for more info.>
I'm not sure what my flow rate should be for the sump so that’s why I'm
looking at two different overflow boxes. I've honestly thought about
emptying the tank completely and take the fish to my LFS for safe
keeping until I can get all this stuff cleared up, good idea or bad?
<No, not really much to clear up.>
This tank has been running for
about 6 yrs. now as is.
<If the status quo is working, maybe you
don’t want to touch it!>
I'm in SC and there aren't any really good
LFS's in this area where the info can be trusted. I have some books but
they all approach a marine setup differently. The sump info and LR,LS
info would really help me out in trying to figure out what to do. I love
the site you all have and have found the information eye-opening, thank
you again.
Craig
<All this is just a matter of reading through the
WWM FAQs re overflows and plumbing. Doing so will shed much more light
on the whole process. Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Sump or Canister filter or both? 8/26/08
Hi again, o.k.
you've sold me on the drilling idea because my airline to my skimmer
gets clogged all the time. But how do I drill the tank with the fish
still in it?
<You don’t, it will need to be emptied. Very much worth
doing before you take the leap of adding corals.>
Also, I'm not clear
on the comment about the water level in relation to the skimmer in the
sump. How do I get the water level right in the sump to prevent a flood
if the power goes out?
<There are many, many pages covering this.
Start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sumpdesfaq.htm
and it will become
clear.>
As far as the LR and LS, I plan on removing both and place
the rock on top of 2" dia. pvc cut to a 1" or 1-1/2" height to raise it
off the floor of the tank and then adding the LS. Just not sure on the
depth the LS should be. Sounds like a good idea?
<Yes, this will be
fine. As for the sand: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dsbfaqs.htm .>
This
is a 46g. bow front tank so which overflow would I need?
<An
overflow that will handle the flow we discussed previously will do. Get
one that will handle twice to flow (more drains) to have some
redundancy; ideally two 1.5” drains.>
Thanks again. The information
here is golden.
Craig
<Welcome, keep reading, Scott V.>
Eheim Canister Flow Rate 8/1/08
Hi WWM Crew,
<Krissy>
I
have been searching for some time for the answer to this question (I
have even called Eheim directly). My question is how does Eheim
calculate their listed flow rate for canister?
<By measuring the
flow, I know, had to say it!>
I know most brands list their flow
rates as what the max flow will be if the canister was empty and ran
without media. It seems to me that Eheim has lower flow rates than other
brands but still lists them as able to handle larger capacity aquariums.
For ex: Marineland c-series 360 is rated at 360 gph and recommended for
up to 100 gallon tanks. Eheim pro II 2126 lists a flow rate of 250 gph
but is still recommended for 100 gallon aquariums. Is Eheim more
accurate at listing the flow rate in a real world situation (i.e. filled
with media)?
<I personally cannot speak to the method Eheim uses to
rate their flow capacity. But, there are two points worth mentioning
regarding this. First, Eheim is known for making the best of the best
canister filters for good reason, they work great, extremely reliable
and user friendly. Second, do not confuse flow rate with filtering
capacity. A 250 gph flow is plenty to filter a 100 gallon aquarium. The
ratings have many other factors, such as media capacity and
effectiveness.>
Thanks for the help!
Krissy
<Welcome, I hope
this gives you some insight. I have used many canisters over the years,
Eheim products being a fav. Scott V.>
Should I continue to use my canister filter? 7/8/08
Hi crew,
<Hello>
It seems I send you a question once a week now, but you
seem to be one of the few reliable resources available. I have a 55
gallon reef tank,
with a canister filter, AquaC Remora Protein
Skimmer (recently purchased, maybe a month ago), about 50 pounds of
live rock, and an
approx. 1.5 inch sand bed. I test my water
weekly, and I can never seem to get my nitrates and phosphates to
zero. I do a 10% weekly water
change and I used phosphate drops
to control the PO4.
<Better to find the source of the phosphates
than try to chemically treat it after the fact.>
I was speaking
with an experienced reefer last night and mentioned that I was using
a canister filter. He said that this may be the cause of my high
nitrate and phosphate levels, stating that if I don't clean my
filter media every few months, that the filter will continue to pump
through the scum
on the media, therefore releasing nitrates and
phosphates back into the tank.
<Less so with the phosphates than
nitrates, but they can be problematic. Also to counter this the
filter needs to be cleaned weekly.>
He said with a 55 gallon
tank, the Remora and my live rock are the only filtration devices
that I need. He suggested getting rid of the canister filter. This
guy has an AMAZING 120 gallon reef tank, and a 110 gallon reef tank
with all SPS coral, calcium reactor, dual overflows...the works...so
I think he knows what he is talking about.
Though I haven't been
in the hobby for very long, I was under the impression that I needed
a filter on my tank.
<Not really, unless you have a high bioload,
otherwise the rock and skimmer should be sufficient.>
What do you
guys suggest?
<You could remove it, just be ready with water
changes if any parameters gets out of line, it may take a little
while for the bacteria in the rock to compensate for the loss of the
canister. Or you could just remove all the filter media and continue
to use it for water movement and occasional carbon/poly-filters.>
Thanks again, Jared S.
<Welcome>
<Chris>
Re: Should I continue to use my canister filter? 7/8/08
Chris,
<Hello>
Thanks for the information.
<Welcome>
I
think I will go the route of removing the media to maintain water
flow. And I should keep the carbon and poly-filters in the filter at
all times? Or place them in occasionally?
Thanks again, Jared S.
<I would run only as needed, otherwise you will have the same
problem as now and need to clean them weekly, which can be a
maintenance headache.>
<Chris> |
User friendly canister filter and bristleworm control 02/25/2008
Hi Guys: What a wonderful website!!! My question is regarding user
friendly canister filters. I'm a bit confused.
<<G'Morning, Andrew
today>>
I have a 55 gallon marine tank with Emperor 400 Bio Wheel,
powerhead and CPR Back Pack protein skimmer (your recommendation; thanks
so much, love it!!). Have about 70 lbs. of live rock, in addition to
crushed coral and base rock. Livestock: (one of each) false percula
clown, royal Gramma, striped damsel and a wrasse that eats bristleworms.
<<Maybe consider switching out the crushed coral at some point for reef
grade sugar sized aragonite sand>>
The present equipment keeps
aquarium fairly clean between bi-weekly, 20% water changes. Water is
clear but never polished. Why is this? Bristleworms? Insufficient
filtration?
<<Switch water changes to 10% per week, rather than the
larger change every two weeks. The bristleworms won't cause dirty
water>>
Would like to put "water polishing" filter on to really
sparkle up the water.
Questions:
1. Can I use a canister filter
in addition to present equipment?
<<Yes, you can do that, and run
some carbon in the filter to hopefully clear up the water>>
2. What
is you recommendation for a simple user friendly canister filter? What
size, brand, model do you recommend for this set up? Keep in mind my
mechanical skills are extremely limited. (The CPR BakPak PS is just
super!! I need something as efficient and easy to maintain as this).
<<The Rena XP2 filter would be a fine choice (
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~AP7313.html ). These
are easy to use with tray filtration. You can add a bag of carbon to one
of the trays and live rock rubble to the other>>
3. Need bristleworm
control tips in addition to the wrasse which does a decent job but does
not eliminate them completely. Is this possible?
<<If your bristle
worms are not at plague levels, then they are fine to leave in there.
They will act as part of your cleanup crew in the tank>>
Looked at
the Marineland Magnum 350 and Eheim models of canister filters but am
not sure which would be appropriate. Would the HOT Magnum 250 do the
job? Do you recommend HOT, immersible, or undertank models?
<<the
marine land is not a very adaptable filter besides running the standard
sponge filter, which is not really much use to you....same again with
the cheaper Eheim filters, they are just sponge filter pads.. The Rena
Xp2 or 3 would be a far better choice>>
Please advise. Thanks so
much!! June Mary
<<Thanks for the questions. Hope this helps. A
Nixon>>
Canister Filter... media, SW 2/14/08
Hi
everyone and thanks for all your past help! My tank spec is as follows;
280 litre tank, 1 inch bed of fine crushed coral sand, good selection of
nice live rock, few mushrooms, star polyps,1 lemon peel angelfish, 2
clownfish, 1 scooter blenny, 1 fuzzy dwarf lionfish, 1 regal tang (
larger tank on way as promised by wife! ),
<For the Scooter Blenny’s
sake also.>
1 fire shrimp, 1 purple reef lobster, I run a Fluval 405
external filter, Hydor 300 watt external heater, red sea Prizm deluxe
skimmer ( next thing on list to upgrade after a lot of sucking up to
wife ha ha ),
<Good plan.>
Arcadia over tank Lumminaire t5 lights,
Tunze Nanostream Turbelle 6045 powerhead ( was running 2 of these but
kicked up to much sand , just so powerful ).
<These do provide tons
of flow and must be directed carefully.>
All livestock happily
getting on and all seem to be very healthy, eating and active. I have
read somewhere recently that the external filter I use is actually only
any good to use for ROWAphos and carbon?
<Canisters can be used for
mechanical/biological filtration also, they just require frequent
cleaning to prevent detritus buildup which leads to excessive nitrate
production. You refer to your substrate as sand, but if it is the
typical coarsely crushed coral substrate, then same applies to it as the
canister filter.>
Do you think this is right? Would my tank crash if
I didn't use the external filter with all the sponges and filter media (
bio rings ) or would my live rock be able to cope?
<This depends
entirely on how much live rock you have. For a tank this size I would
look to have a minimum of 50lbs (23kg) for filtration.>
Thanks for
your time and expertise, hope to hear from you soon.
<Welcome, I have
included some pertinent links below, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstsel3.htm
Fluval Died...Replacement Recommendation 1/29/08
Hi there.
Grateful for all your insights and answers.
<Hi Walt, happy to
help out.>
Hope you can get specific on our situation.
Have a
150 gallon tank with a TruVu Platinum series sump.
Only
inhabitants are a 7 inch Porcupine Puffer and a 3 inch Dog Faced
Puffer.
Our nitrate levels have been quite high for awhile, and
while the fish are healthy, we're trying to 'improve' conditions.
<OK, better water quality never hurts.>
Recently got rid of the
wet/dry bio-balls and put in a refugium with biosediment, rock,
sand, Chaeto, and turtle grass.
<Nice.>
Have an Aqua C Urchin
Pro skimmer (got this because of the small footprint size in the
left part of the sump...9x9)
<Good skimmer.>
Our Fluval 404
canister filter just stopped working (5 years old, transferred it
from a 55 gallon).
So now the question....
Get a new, better,
filter - and if so, a recommendation please.....
(Marineland,
Eheim, etc)
<I would have to vote for the Eheim.>
OR
just
upgrade to a super skimmer (footprint issue a concern) and forget
the canister filter approach.
<This really depends on the amount
of live rock you have in this system. If your canister was providing
your primary biofiltration you should act quickly to replace it. If
you have sufficient live rock, you can skip the canister altogether.
As far as skimmer choices, I would rather keep the skimmer you have
over the model proposed. If you wish to upgrade (not a bad idea),
perhaps another Urchin or something in AquaC’s EV series. Both will
be tight, but should fit in your sump area of 9”x9” (do account for
the addition of the pump required with the EVs when measuring things
out). The EV series can even sit outside the sump if you have room.>
THANK YOU!!!
Walt
Re: Fluval Died...Replacement Recommendation 1/29/08
Thank
you very much for the quick response, as we weren't sure how
'urgent' a priority replacing the Fluval was.
<If it were your
primary biomedia, yes.>
With approximately 100 pounds of live
rock in the 150 tank, perhaps we'll see how the levels are before
rushing out to get a new canister filter.
<You have plenty for
your stated bioload.>
(I believe I read on WWM that some
canisters can be nitrate 'houses', which really defeats our goal of
lowering the levels...would that be true of even an Eheim?)
<Yes
it is, if it is not cleaned very frequently.>
AND...If we decide
to go with just the live rock approach rather than an Eheim
canister, do we need even more live rock in the tank?
<You could
put a little more in a 150, but you will be fine here.>
THANKS
again!
Walt
<Welcome, best of luck, Scott V.> |
Should I Use A Canister Filter? - 12/31/07
Hi Eric or whoever
is on duty this evening,
<<Hiya Ken...Eric here>>
My 90 gallon
SPS tank is doing great.
<<Excellent>>
I recently set up a
second tank primarily for a RBTA and a pair of Clarkii clown fish.
<<Neat!>>
I will probably add another 4 small fish and some star
polyps and mushrooms at some point.
<<Mmm, too bad...the
tank/anemone would fare much better in the long term without the
polyps and mushrooms trying to constantly poison it>>
The tank is
a 46 gallon bow (3 foot length) with about 65 pounds of live rock,
TEK 5 T5 lighting, two Tunze 6025 Nano Stream powerheads, and a
Deltec hang on back skimmer. I am not using a sump. Even though I
can make a large % water change with a couple of buckets of new
water, or water from my SPS tank with this size tank if I ever run
into trouble, I was wondering if I should add a canister filter to
my set up?
<<I would...for chemical filtration
(carbon/Poly-Filter)>>
If I did this, I would not use the bio
media or noodles, and just use the sponge for mechanical filtration
to trap debris.
<<If you do...be sure to clean the filter sponge
of detritus one or more times a week, else the canister filter will
become more of a "problem" than a "solution">>
I could also use
it for PhosBan etc if needed.
<<Indeed>>
I have no mechanical
filtration in my SPS tank, but the debris eventually will end up in
my sump which I can then clean out.
<<Agreed... And with good
strong water flow, the suspended detritus (or marine snow, if you
like) is actually quite good "food" for your corals>>
This tank
has no sump. I of course will have a clean up crew for the tank. Do
you think the canister filter is a good idea or a waste of money?
<<Can be quite useful, as described/when maintained properly>>
If
it is a good idea, is Eheim still the way to go?
<<Many choices
available these days...but you won't go wrong with the Eheim
product>>
Thanks,
Ken
<<Happy to help. EricR>>
Re: Should I Use A Canister Filter? – 01/02/08
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Ken>>
Happy New Year! I hope all is well with you.
<<And a ‘Happy New Year’ to you as well!>>
I may opt out of the
mushrooms and polyps then.
<<Will be best…in my opinion>>
I
did not realize that they "poison" the water.
<<Mmm, yes…quite
noxious. And as with everything on a reef, are constantly “at
battle” for the available real estate utilizing their quite
formidable chemical weaponry. A fact that is compounded by the
confines of an aquarium>>
I though the issue was with the anemone
moving around and stinging its tank mates.
<<This too can be/is a
problem. But in this scenario, it is more likely the anemone would
eventually succumb to the stress and strain of defending itself from
the encroaching polyps and mushrooms as they reproduce and spread.
These organisms are quite popular with new aquarists for their ease
of keeping, colors, and prolific nature…but I can tell you, many
(including myself) regret their introduction>>
If you recall, I
did plan on a BTA in my 90 gal tank but took it out after a couple
of months. BTA became a PITA. :)
<<Does happen>>
One last
thing about the canister filter, would using a PhosBan filter with
RowaPhos be as good a solution as using an "Eheim" type filter? I
know they are completely different but if I do not use the canister
for mechanical filtration, Rowa Phos would probably be all that I
would put in the chamber anyway.
<<There may be some difference
in the degree of efficiency between a canister filter and these
fluidized reactors, but yes, for what you describe this is fine>>
IF, this tank runs as my 90 gallon does, I won't use carbon or
anything else. I only use the PhosBan reactor and no other media on
my 90.
<<I see>>
What is your opinion?
<<I say, give it a
go>>
I haven't spoken to you in about a year (when my tank was
set up initially)
<<Ah yes…I believe I was in Hawaii
visiting/diving with Bob at the time>>
so let me give you an
update.
<<Okay>>
If you recall, it is a 90 gallon tank with an
H&S skimmer, Marine Technical Concepts Pro-Cal calcium reactor,
Sunlight Supply Maristar light fixture with two 250-watt 10,000k
Ushio bulbs and two 54-watt T5 ATI bulbs, and two Tunze 6000
powerheads with controller. The tank did not start out as an SPS
tank, but that is basically what it became. I literally have my SPS
growing like weeds.
<<Neat!>>
I can keep my alkalinity
constantly between 10 and 11 dKH. My calcium is about 420 but I
really don't check it that often as I really just monitor
alkalinity.
<<Would seem that calcium reactor is working well>>
My nitrates and phosphates are very close to zero using a Salifert
test kit. I think my skimmer gets the credit for that as I do not do
a lot of water changes.
<<Likely so…but do consider the water
changes also replenish the good/remove the bad things we don’t/can’t
test for…or even know about, or understand their role/effect.
Everything in your tank is a consumer of the elements in saltwater,
as well as a polluter of this medium. Nothing has a larger impact on
replenishing the one and diluting the other than frequent water
changes… Something that should never be neglected in my
book…regardless of how “efficient” the filtration gear or how well
we “think” our tank is doing>>
It was great hearing from you.
<<And you, mate!>>
I'm glad you're still here.
<<Ah, well…I’ll
likely continue for as long as Bob sees benefit from my
participation [grin]>>
Regards,
Ken
<<Be chatting. Eric
Russell>>
R2: Should I Use A Canister Filter? - 01/02/08
Hi Eric,
<<Ken>>
You have a good memory.
<<I wish… [grin]>>
We were
exchanging email at that time you were diving in Hawaii.
<<Yup>>
You are correct about the water changes in that it is not just about
diluting what is in the tank, but also what gets brought back in. I
do notice after a water change, some of my coral are more open.
<<Mmm, yes…but which aspect is the cause re? Dilution of pollution?
Re-supply of essential elements? Both? Likely the latter I think>
I have one last question regarding my new tank that has recently
cycled.
<<Okay>>
When I use a turkey baster to blow off the
rocks, there is a lot of debris.
<<Indeed…detritus/mulm>>
Since I have no mechanical filtration or sump, I was thinking of
briefly using my diatom filter that I used to use when I had a plant
tank and use it on this tank while I blow off the rocks and the
debris is suspended in the water.
<<You could… Or simply siphon
it away when doing FREQUENT WATER CHANGES [big grin]>>
It is a
Tetra or Whisper and it worked quite well. Is there any harm using
the diatom powder? This may be a dumb question but can I get diatoms
in the tank from this?
<<While the powder does have a very high
silica content, I think there is little to be concerned with
considering the short duration of use involved. Do be sure to keep
the powder itself from entering the tank>>
Thanks and regards,
Ken
<<Happy to assist. EricR>> |
"Polishing" Water
12/24/07
Dear Crew,
Happy holidays!
<And Happy Holidays to
you, too! Scott F. in today!>
I need your help yet again. I want to
clarify my water more. I have an Outer Orbit light fixture and the light
seems to reflect every particle in the water. I was thinking of adding
an additional filter, but not sure which one. I was thinking of either
an Eheim where I can pack my own filter media, or an Ocean Clear inline
filter made just for polishing water. If I go with the Eheim, I don't
know what filter media to use. I would prefer the Eheim as this will
only draw 50 watts. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Jeff
<Well, Jeff-
I like the Eheim, too. I would probably use a mechanical media, such as
"Ehfimech", which is a porous clay material that traps debris. I would
also utilize activated carbon for its chemical filtration capabilities.
If you pay attention to the replacement and cleaning of these media,
you'll get really great results for the long run. Best of luck to you!
Regards, Scott F.>
External Canister filter 11/26/07
Hi
<Hello>
My set up
is 190 Liter 42g, (UK) bow front, air driven skimmer, LR (but unsure
how much (see pic, please note one or two small pieces of base rock
at the bottom).
Filtration is via an Eheim pro 2 2026- media-
some sort of white ring in the bottom compartment, covered with a
blue coarse sponge, then a layer of white/cream porous balls in the
next and a bag of phos remover next to it.
<OK>
All parameters
low, but I’ve been advised remove all media and have the Eheim
solely for mechanical filtration. I’m diligent when it comes to
maintenance, and I intend to clean the filter, propeller (gunk), and
the media once a month (using tank water when doing a change),
therefore shall I stick with my set up, or remove the media?
Mo
<The problem you are hearing about is with the mechanical filtration
itself. It traps detritus that could otherwise be processed out of
your system, producing excessive nitrate. The filter and media can
be used if you are very diligent about cleaning, I would clean it at
least once a week. Just keep an eye on your nitrate level and watch
out for the dreaded algae. Happy reefing, Scott V.> | 
|
Why Add A Canister Filter With A Wet-Dry? – 11/07/07
Hello guys
and thank you for donating to me some of your time.
<<Quite welcome>>
In an e-mail that was sent to me from Eric R., he answered some of my
questions regarding my high-nitrates (has recently gone down to 25 from
over 160 ppm)
<<Excellent>>
and also gave me a few general tips.
<<I hope they were of use>>
It was suggested by Eric to buy a
refugium and also a small canister filter with cut-up Poly-Filter in it
to better my setup.
<<Indeed...both are always worthwhile additions
in my opinion>>
I understand why I should have a refugium (a medium
Aquafuge refugium and live sand is coming in the mail), but I didn't
understand why I would need a small canister filter plus I don't want to
buy one if it won't be worth my while.
<<The canister filter was
suggested merely as a means to provide some additional chemical
filtration to your system...if you have some other way of utilizing the
Poly-Filter media then by all means do so>>
Maybe I was unclear when
describing my setup. Oh, and FYI I've only been in the marine hobby for
3.5 months so I am of little knowledge.
<<You are changing that just
by reading/being here>>
I have a 120g FOWLR saltwater tank with 45lbs
live rock with a 2" layer of crushed coral.
<<I probably mentioned
this before, but this two-inch “crushed coral” bed is probably a large
contributor to your Nitrate issue as the course material will trap much
uneaten food/detritus and the depth is not sufficient to foster enough
of the right kinds of bacteria to function as a proper DSB. It would be
best to either reduce the depth to an inch or less...increase the depth
to four-inches or more...or change it out for a “sugar-fine” Aragonite
material>>
It houses a Snowflake Eel, 4 Damsels, and various Hermit
Crabs and snails. For filtration I use a Little Giant water pump that
runs 640 gph into a 2' wide by 1' deep by 1' high wet-dry trickle. The
water when going through the middle chamber in the wet-dry trickles
first goes thru a standard filter pad, then thru De-nitrate and
activated Carbon, then thru a piece of felt, then thru more De-nitrate
and activated Carbon plus Chemi-pure, then thru another filter plan, and
finally trickles over live rock before being pumped into the main tank.
I have a Berlin Triple Pass Turbo Hang-On Protein Skimmer that is rated
for tanks up to 250g. I now realized I made a poor purchase regarding my
skimmer but I'm not about to replace it due to the fact it cost over
$200. I also have 3 foot-long air stones lining the back of my tank for
extra oxygen for my Snowflake.
<<The skimmer should oxygenate the
water well enough...as I suspect the air stones are creating much
salt-creep around the top of your tank>>
Considering my current
setup, would it be a good idea to add a canister filter? If so, why, and
how big?
<<A canister filter would ensure the most
efficient/effective use of the Poly-Filter just by the very nature of
its design/function (forces water “through” the filter material), and
any of the small “external” canister filters would suffice...but...you
can also likely employ the Poly-Filter material somewhere in your
Wet-Dry filter... Is up to you>>
Thank you for your generous service.
-Phil
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
Giant Hawkfish problem... Actually induced env. prob.s
9/3/07
Hi,
<Christine>
I have looked up your site for a
while now but now I am having trouble with my giant hawkfish and I hope
someone is able to help me. I have had him for about a year and in the
last month I have switched from a sump system to a canister filter...
<Mmmm... I am not a fan by and large of using these types as sole...>
it is a Rena xp4 and the tank size is 100 gallons. He shares it with an
eel (fimbriated) and since i switched the sump out i noticed his
breathing got a lot heavier.
<Oh yes... very likely the agitation of
air/water in the sump brought oxygen into high saturation>
I thought
it was the heat so I got a chiller, still the breathing was heavy
although the temperature is perfect so I got some aeration going in the
tank. For about a few weeks he was fine but as of the last few days I
noticed his breathing has gotten very heavy, lethargic and occasionally
does this scary coughing thing where he looks like he might explode.
<Very dangerous... Very likely these two species/specimens also need
more room than this 100... I have seen Fimbriated morays that required
hundreds of gallons for themselves>
I did a full battery of tests and
found the nitrate and nitrite to be both high..
<How high is high,
sigh...>
I did a 20% water change added some AmQuel + and so far the
readings have been perfect.
<Warning! This Kordon product (the PVP
ingredient) will give false negatives with some test kits...>
Everything is at zero. Although the ph is a bit low at 7.8.
<Too
low...>
Anyway, that's all the info i think that might help... i will
be adding another biological filtration unit to the tank with a few days
in hopes that it needs more (as he and his brother are messy eaters) but
i just don't know what might be wrong.
<The loss of the sump... not
enough volume... the too-driven-nitrification effects of canister
filtration, poor water quality... You've stated it all>
I will also
get proper ph to up the ph level to 8.2.
<Not a good idea, means...
need more naturally available carbonate, bicarbonate... more hard,
soluble substrate/s...>
The eel seems to breathe heavy at times but
it seems the hawkfish is the one who is losing his color, breathing
heavy at times and then almost not at other times and occasionally
coughs. Sorry if this is long but i don't know what it might be.. any
thoughts? Parasite maybe and if so how does one tell? I don't want to
add anything to the water that might make them worse... thanks so much
for any feedback! Oh and also the salinity is perfect as well as the
temperature so those are not possible problems. thanks!!! :)
Christine
<... Please... get a larger system, bring back the sump,
consider using the canister simply as a contactor... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm
and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner>
Re: 30 gallon aquarium with Eheim 2234 7/28/07
Bob,
<Hubert>
Thanks for your reply. I guess I need to do some additional
research on fish/system compatibility. After reading few books I had the
peaceful community tank figured out.:-).
Also, I know that there is
no media in the skimmer, but what I was referring to was the type of
media in my Eheim filter that would be best in conjunction with the
Remora skimmer.
<Is as stated previously>
So if the live rock
provides great bio filtration, skimmer is removing all
<Not all>
the nasties from the water, should my filter media (Eheim) focus on
mechanical/chemical filtration only. Or should I also use bio filtration
in the Eheim as well. Thanks!!
<In most all marine applications I
suggest canister filters only as adjuncts to bio-filtration, with the
chance of occasional chemical filtrants. This is all archived/posted on
WWM>
Hubert
<BobF>
Use of Canister Filters, SW, Koran Sys., Selecting a/the "truth"
– 06/07/07
Guys, I found this on FAQ
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm, . You said to read
about the systems and such, Bob said the FX5 canister filter might not
be a good choice and I have too many incompatible fish in my small 80
gal tank, but...
<Yes>
Under Canister filters, the FAQ says they
can be good for bio filtration.
<Can... in actual practice the use of
canisters period has some dire potential... should the power or pump go
out for a period of time... an hour or more let's say... and resume...
the anaerobic activity can be troublesome... to deadly>
The FX5 I'm
using is about the largest in the industry, strictly bio only, and is
easy to clean if necessary.
<Good features, points>
Using
additional filtration for mech/chem and a skimmer (of which I just
purchased a larger one), by reading some of this FAQ it looks good. The
question answered below makes mention of the other filtration besides
the canister needing to be addressed but doesn't dissuade the writer
from using them.
<Antoine's opinion at the time...>
Secondly, the
writer has a 55gal with similar bioload, that being a Koran angel, a
yellow tang, a moon wrasse (thinking Lunare wrasse or similar), plus
some others. There is no mention of concern about incompatibility or bio
overload for the tank size.
<Again... I certainly would mention...
Please, not to be argumentative here, take a look around reference works
re Pomacanthus...>
I'm adding another 25 gallons with the 80 gallon,
plus with the designs to go to a 135 in the very near future.
<Still
too small for this species...>
Now, the shark is pretty stationary
(and currently only 6", but yes, will grow), and yes the puffer creates
a bigger bioload on the tank. But the three large fish (not large yet in
the 80, larger with time in the 135), that being the doggy, the tang,
and an angel, ought to be similar to gentleman's livestock below and
there was no concern mentioned in this FAQ.
<Again... keep reading.
Selecting one input from a small sample is not going to grant you much
insight... Yes, even if it were mine>
A Koran gets pretty large, too,
and in a 55gal?
<Yes>
See, I did go back and reread the FAQ on
compatibility of the three fish, and with the yellow tangs didn't see
where there was a direct conflict. Angels can be aggressive, yes. Some
actually recommend puffers as good tank mates with these fish, too.
Just stressing again that the below question was an example and isn't my
original Q. Two, I am in NO WAY being critical of any WWM answer, as you
guys have been really helpful to me, but I just wanted to point out that
sometimes when I do reread the previous stuff I get some conflicting
info.
Below quoted from FAQ on Canister filters:
"Re: Filter
change
Hi all-
Thank you for the reply to my filter question. As a
follow-up, will switching from a hang-on filter to a canister make a
significant difference?
<most canister filters are larger than
hang-ons and may very well be more effective by virtue of their size.
Pick a good brand like Eheim that has been around for decades and is
tried and true>
I am currently running a 55 gallon saltwater aquarium
with about 30 pound of live rock, a CPR Bak Pak skimmer, an undergravel
filter, and a Whisper hang on filter. Basically, it's a FOWLR (plus one
starfish) with a Cardinalfish, Koran angel, yellow tang, two striped
damsels, and moon wrasse.
<hmmm... do maintain that UG filter
diligently>
The biggest reason for my considering a filter change is
the frequency with which I'm changing the filter pads, sometimes twice a
week.
<either you are feeding WAY too much food or your skimmer has
not been adjusted to collect good skimmate DAILY or a combination of
both. A canister filter is not going to solve your problem... only put a
bandage on a symptom>
I know a canister filter requires maintenance
as well, but I wonder if I'm harming water quality by having a filter
with less filtering ability (although water parameters test fine).
<if you get the canister, do modify with a course foam block (like from
a Hagen AquaClear filter) on the intake strainer. Rinse and reuse this
frequently and this will dramatically extend the life of the media in
your canister>
Thanks in advance for all your help. All good wishes,
Daryl Klopp
<best regards, Anthony>"
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/pomacanthus/koran.htm
and the linked files above. BobF> Canister or Power Filter
for Nutrient Export? Neither 3/15/07
Hi Crew..,
<Hello.>
I have a 55 gal reef tank with about 35 lbs of live rock, an A-Miracle
HOT wet/dry trickle filter and a remora protein skimmer and two extra
pumps just to increase water flow. Inhabitants are 10 Nassarius snails,
a serpent star, mushroom, a few button polyps, diamond goby, flame angel
, a bicolor pseudo and an algae blenny. Nothing terribly fancy as you
can see. Mostly, things run well, but whenever I seek to add a fish, I
start having problems. I think the wet/dry is too small, and as a
result, the system cannot handle even a slightly increased bio load.
I'd like to add supplemental filtration, and I am considering the Eheim
Pro 2224 canister. What do you think?
<For nutrient control, no.>
Should I use it as both chemical and mechanical filtration, or, given
that its just to be a supplemental, am I better off just with chemical
filtration to keep nitrates and phosphate
<Nice to have on hand in
emergencies, use if you are keeping noxious inverts....but necessary to
run it all the time? No.>
s in check? Any suggestions on using
carbon in this scenario? Will adding such supplemental filtration allow
for a slightly heavier bio load?
<No, use more water changes and/or
refugiums for this.>
I'm not looking to over do it. I just want to
add maybe 2 fish and perhaps some hermits, maybe another mushroom.
Thanks!! I love the site!!
<Honestly what you need is better
nutrient export. I wouldn't recommend a canister or a power filter for
any for any of this. Look up Hang on Refugiums...refugiums in
general....on WWM. Adam J.>
Marine Filtration
Problems/Options 2/5/07
Hi,
<Hey Mark.>
Thanks for
the great site.
<Welcome.>
My question is about filtration.
<Okay.>
I recently added a canister filter to my 125 gallon tank
in a attempt to up grade my system only to realize that this is not
really a good option.
<Correct.>
I was considering removing all
the filters and media and placing live rock in the baskets. But it
feels like a waste of electricity to run it at all.
<Well if you
have LR in the display….not necessary, I would just keep it empty, use
it to run chemical media/carbon when necessary.>
I do not have a
sump and all my equipment is in the main display. Is it enough
filtration to just run a good hang on protein skimmer with live rock
and power heads for water movement and if so how important is the depth
of the sand bed, I currently have 1 inch.
<Well what type of
skimmer is it? Most hang on skimmers can not handle such a large
aquarium…Look into adding refugia.>
My fish are a juv. blue angel,
juv. sailfin tang a juv. Naso tang and pair of black and white percula
clowns. Also, I change 10% of the water weekly.
Best regards, Mark
<To you as well, Adam J.> SW, placement of ancillary canister
filter for chemical media use
Greetings guys from sunny South
Africa trust you are all well, thanks for the great site and great
advice. A quick question please I am currently upgrading my entire set
up and adding a 100 Litre sump / refugium to my 400 Litre tank . I am
currently using a small 50 litre sump with a bag of activated carbon, my
question is that I have a Fluval filter that I am not using and want to
add this directly to my main display tank system but primary just use it
for my activated carbon.
<Okay>
Would you recommend this?
<Mmm, not a bad idea, use>
Will that not be a bad thing for my
refugium as it will suck up all the beneficial creatures?
<Likely
not suck many up... some will come to live in it>
Your advice would
be greatly appreciated.
Werner Schoeman
<I would rig
this canister filter up to run water into and out of your main tank
itself. Bob Fenner>
To Canister or Not to Canister? 7/18/05
That is the question!
<"Whether it be nobler in the mind to suffer
the slings and arrows of outrageous water changes...">
Thank you in
advance for any guidance you can provide.
I've learned so much from
your site since locating it several months ago. I started with a 55
gal. FOWLR last Aug. then purchased a stocked 125 gal. in April of this
year with the intent of upgrading and transferring most of my 55 into
the 125. I currently have approx. 150-200lb. of LR, a AquaC Remora Pro
(no sump), a Whisper power filter with Chemi-pure, and four Maxi-jet
1200's for water movement. Livestock includes a mated pair of false
Perculas, Yellow Tang, Naso Tang (I know he will eventually
outgrow--came with the 125 tank), Royal Gramma, Coral Beauty, Mandarin
Dragonet, assorted snails and a few hermit crabs, Button Polyps, Finger
Leather Coral, and Green Star polyps. I do not wish to do a full reef
and will not be adding anything for a while. I do not have room for a
sump at this time and have been considering an Eheim 2028 or 2250
canister filter to replace the Whisper--mainly for mechanical/chemical
filtration and increased circulation. Would you recommend doing this?
<Mmm, am a huge fan of Eheim in general, their canister filters (and
pumps) in particular, but I would opt to add another large hang on
filter here actually... the canister would be nice in that it's quiet,
efficient in biological and mechanical filtration, but they're a pain to
service on most marine systems... and can cause troubles if not serviced
quite often (like weekly)>
My nitrates are 0 and I understand
canister filters can raise this--does this still occur if I don't use
their biological material?
<Mmm, there are other media that can be
used to discount overdriven nitrification>
Any recommendations you
can give are much appreciated!
Diana Miller
<You have mine here,
and all of outs on WWM. Bob Fenner> Re: Beginner Seahorse Tank, on
resolving conflicting advice on Canisters 10/5/05
Bob,
Leslie, thank you both for your time and advice on my
previous email. I've taken your advice, did more research, and have
taken the plunge!
<Welcome>
I set up a 37G, foregoing the
Nanocube. I have about 1/3 volume in Live Rock, Remora Pro skimmer with
Mag3 pump. I got the live rock from the LFS, "mostly cured" in their
words. I have a small AquaClear 20 powerhead to supplement flow, at
about half capacity.
According to my research and belief, the Remora
should be returning about 100 gph to the tank, and my powerhead approx
60-70 gph, I think. Was aiming for about 170-180. (37x5=185). For the
seahorses to come....
I hope you can help me with the following.
(1) My guy at the LFS has been pushing me to get a Canister. I
want some mechanical filter to hold carbon, and to filter
particles. But it seems some people on WWM say LR and skimmer is enough
and canisters are more negative (nitrate?) than positive. I'm
worried about inconvenience of cleaning. On the other hand, the added
water volume and carbon would be desirable, I think. Which way should
I go? Canister? Powerfilter?
<I would use the latter myself...
easier, cheaper to run, acquire... and does all the two can/will do>
Is Eheim 2215 too much flow for the seahorses? I have read bigger is
better, here on WWM on canisters.
<Could, would
work... has a discharge spray bar....>
But I'm worried about too
much flow. The LFS guy says point the water return down and I can limit
influence on the flow. Or should I just ditch the entire idea and leave
it with LR and skimmer?
<Up to you. Can be added later if you want>
(2) It's been about a week since I set it up, and the water is
doing great (ph.8.1, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10mg/l, spg 1.024,
Ca 430). but today, I noticed a lot of the LR is starting to
turn/grown rusty/orange/brown on the edges. It does not look like the
pictures of BGalgae or Cyano I see on the FAQ here. No wispy hairs,
just looks like... rusty fuzz. Is this natural?
<Yes>
or should
I be concerned?
<Re? Read on WWM re... cycling, LR curing...
Cyano... this latter is what this mainly is>
Even the rock that
has great purple coralline when I got it, is starting to turn "rusty" on
the edges. On the other hand, I think there is at least a little pimple
of orange sponge growing on another piece of rock that wasn't there a
few days ago.
(3) My RemoraPro is foaming, but not enough to reach
the container.
Do you think this is because I have
nothing in the tank and there is genuinely little to skim, or because I
have to tweak and skim more?
<Maybe a bit of both>
The skimmer has been running for 3 days now. I have the prefilter foam
on the Mag. Should I not have this attached?
<Time for the
requisite "stop obsessing" stmt. here>
(4) So far all I have in my
tank is the LR, live sand, and water. I thought cycling would take
longer, but last three days, I have not had any ammonia or nitrite. Am
I missing something? Did I miss the cycling somehow? I can't decide
what to add first - snails, etc., or some macro algae for seahorses to
hitch onto (looking ahead).
Caulerpa seems to be
the most available around here, and looks like something seahorses would
enjoy hitching onto. But the advice on them also seem to be both
extremes - easy, not easy. risk or crash.
not in
the main tank (I don't have a refugium). Should I get something
else? or is it ok to get Caulerpa? Should I stick with fake plants and
synthetic corals for hitching posts?
<I would for now>
I am
getting a bit nervous and excited to have it all set up. Thanks for
your help in advance!
Hiro
<Bob Fenner>
Filter-less
1/30/06
Hi,
After my last water change, I decided to unplug
my Fluval and see if the tank can get along without it.
I have a 55
gallon tank with a remora C skimmer, 3 power heads that together turn
over approximately 700gph.
I do 5% water changes weekly. I've
recently noticed a lot of brown particles on the surface of the water.
I can't think of any reason for this but the elimination of the Fluval,
which by the way only had carbon in it.
I would be interested in
your thoughts..............
Thank you
<Canister filters can be
of use in many types of marine set-ups, but the use described here is
better served by simply placing the chemical filtrant in a Dacron bag in
the water flow path somewhere. I would add some mechanical/particulate
filtration however. Bob Fenner> Canister Filter vs. Wet-Dry Filter
3/20/06
Hello, <Hi Joe - Tim answering your question today!>
I have racked my brain researching what filter I should get for my 75
gallon tank. I plan to have a fish only saltwater tank with no
invertebrates.
Despite the internet research, the 4 books I've read
and the local fish stores - I can't decide. The wet-dry seems to be the
best, but at double the price. The canister seems to be the economical
choice but will it be enough?
The research I have done leads me to
believe that a fish only tank will be ok with a canister filter but if I
add invertebrates then I'll need a wet-dry filter. Please let me know
how far off I am. <Joe - please read this and the links on this page for
all the information that you seek
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm >
Should I get a protein skimmer too? <You should definitely get a protein
skimmer, irrespective of whether you opt for a fish only or full reef
system. Do research skimmers before making your purchase as there are
considerable differences in quality with correspondingly minor
differences only in price!>
Thank you in advance for you time. <
Always a pleasure - I do hope that I have been of some help!>
Respectfully,
- Joe
Canister vs. Refugium...And Winna' by
TKO in the First round is - 03/09/2006
Hi Bob,
<Josh
actually, but hello just the same.>
I was reading some FAQ yesterday
and noticed that in a particular question you recommended the removal of
a canister filter to assist denitrification. I was wondering if you
could give me your opinion of whether I should swap my canister filter
for a refugium containing Chaetomorpha algae.
<I'd say absolutely.>
My specifications are: 850 Litre tank; Wet/dry mini reef with Skimmer,
Eheim 2218 Canister filter.
<Did you just say wet/dry? Hmm...may be
the answer to your question.>
My nitrates are too high. About
40-50ppm, and this is what I am aiming to reduce.
<And rightly so.
I'd look into removing both the wet/dry and canister here (eventually).
Are you using LR? How much? You can plan this system to take care of
itself, with diligence on your part.>
So what will I lose/gain by
doing this?
<All posted...repeatedly.>
Thanks
Joe.
<I
know it's not definitive, but so it goes. Your help lies in
understanding/embracing a filtration methodology. It becomes easier as
you read about each. Remember...don't buy the cup holder if you don't
need it. - Josh> Canister poss. addn. to a F and
anemone WLR 5/9/06
Hi Crew - I have a couple of
questions for you today. First, some useful info: I have a mixed reef
74gal reef ready oceanic tank with a 30gal sump.
I have converted
both holes in the overflow box to drains and have return via hard PVC
from the opposite corner of the tank. I am using a LARGE Iwaki MD70RLT
for the return (I know this may be "too much flow") operating at about 6
feet head pressure. The return pump also runs a skimmer and a
chiller. I have over 100lbs of LR. My tank is about 2-3 years old and
has been relatively trouble free until recently. NO3 levels are below
10ppm, NO2 and ammonia are ~0. My phosphate test kit reads zero.
Problem/Question 1: I recently upgraded to this larger pump and because
the flow through the sump is so high, it is hard to keep filter floss in
place (as you might expect). I am stuck with this pump however and
rather like the flow in the tank. However, I have recently had my first
algae explosion which I think is due to inadequate particulate
filtration.
<And likely the "natural" aging of your hard substrates,
loss of "bio-diversity"... Please search, read on WWM re... I would
switch out a bit of the substrate and LR>
I use RO/DI water always,
feed very little (a small cube every 3 days or so), replace light bulbs
fairly frequently (pc), and do frequent (enough) water changes.
So
now, I am considering adding a canister filter inline between the return
pump and tank (after protein skimmer) to help remove some of the
particulate matter. I plan to clean the filter weekly/biweekly with
water changes. Can you recommend a quality canister that can
accommodate this type of flow and pressure?
<There are a few... a
fave is the "Nu-Clear" line... for their size, decent engineering,
flexibility... though still a pain to open, keep clean...>
Also, do
you see any major problems with this thinking, so long as filter is
cleaned frequently - other recommendations?
<... a
few... diverting some part of the water flow into a "closed-loop",
getting a larger sump, re-orienting/baffling the present flow/doing away
with the floss and making the sump more into a refugium... with
concomitant modifications there>
Problem 2 which may/may not be
associated with above problem: I have recently been noticing that I am
losing Turbo snails like crazy. I have a number of Turbos and
Astraea. The astrea seem to be doing ok, but I keep finding dead
Turbos. The only thing that I can think of is that I have recently
begun using a pH buffer as my pH is always hovering around 7.9 due to
DI/RO use.
<Mix these adjuncts in with the new water,
well in advance of its use>
I have never been a fan of additives but
thought my tank may appreciate the higher pH (although, I have never
noticed any problems over the last 3 years with the lower pH). I don't
keep hard corals, so I have never worried about Ca levels. Could
reduced Ca levels due to increasing alkalinity be causing this?
<Yes>
Since raising the pH, I have a bubble tip anemone that I have
had for years that is now much smaller and not expanding its tentacles
nor eating. Hence, I have stopped using the additive and noticed that
the tentacles seem to be much longer and it is eating again. All other
inverts and fish seem to be fine - minus the snails. I know I'm
probably missing something.
Sorry for the length, and always - thank
you for your great help!
Peter
<Thank you for writing so
clearly, thoroughly. As mentioned, do change out part of the hard
substrates, mix supplements in with the change water in advance. I do
suspect that a good deal of your issues here are resultant from a loss
of both ready biomineral reserve (from the substrates becoming less
soluble based in their exposure, make-up), and the reactionary use of
the buffer. I would read through the sections on WWM re Refugiums, make
modifications to the present or additional sump, and not likely add a
canister filter mechanism here. Too much flow restriction,
maintenance/induced troubles likely. Bob Fenner>
Ammonia
Spike After Power Outage.. canister filter danger 7/2/06
Hi,
<Hello there>
Thank you for your excellent site. I'm a
former fresh water hobbyist turned salt water since Oct. of last
year. Your site has been a huge help in the last year. I have always
found ample information without having to write but have experienced my
first major problem. I was hoping for a second opinion on my plan of
action to deal with this. My livestock include one sailfin tang (I know
he'll need a bigger tank and will provide for him), 2 clarkii clowns
(mated pair), one blue damsel, one red knobbed starfish, one banded
serpent star (a brown w/ darker brown striped brittle star not sure if
that's the correct name as I've never found his exact pic on your site),
<There are many such species>
3 blue legged hermits, a cleaner
shrimp, and live rock with various little hitchhikers.
I have a 72
gallon, hex tank, that has been running for almost 9 months. It cycled
well last year and I thought that I had made it through the flooding in
the area that had shut the power off several times without trouble. I
discovered this morning I was wrong. My ammonia level was slightly
elevated
(normally it is 0, nitrite, and nitrate zero, pH 8.2, temp
around 72) this morning it was 0.25 ppm for ammonia. I found out my
magnum 350 was the problem.
<For other readers this is a canister
filter... would "go anaerobic" with cessation of power/flow>
Although it had come back on after the power returned it wasn't primed
and therefore never was really working. Like I said I'm a beginner
since my fresh water always had hang on whisper filters.
<And these
are hang-on power filters... open to the air>
So now I know that
I've got to check that when the power goes off. I got the 350 running,
but stupid me over looked that the little water left in the intake and
return ubing had gone bad. It caused my ammonia to spike to 1.0 ppm. I
was horrified.
So I added the recommended dose of ammo-lock 2 as an
emergency stop gap after doing a 25% water change. I plan to do another
25%water change in two days.
<Any ammonia will hopefully
be gone before this>
I will also stop by the LFS to pick up some
stress zyme to add after the next water change. I thought that that may
offer some help to replace any bacteria harmed from this large a
disturbance in the cycle (I had vacuumed the sand, changed out some of
the decor, and changed out the filter
media before I turned on the
filter and sent that horrible water into the tank).
<Yes, best to
vent initially...>
I will continue to test and do changes as needed
to keep the ammonia, etc in control. Does this seem a good plan?
<Yes... though, as stated, likely all will be rectified in short order
on its own>
I had been planning to add some more live rock, would
now be a good time to do so?
<Not for a few weeks>
I feel like
an idiot for not realizing the filter wasn't moving water and then
letting that water into the tank.
<Happens... a common mistake.>
Soon after I set the tank up my father was diagnosed with cancer and ten
days later my father in law had a heart attack. Things are only
starting to get back to normal so I'm not as observant as I should be
with the tank.
<Good that you recognize these influences, events...
Even better that you are able to keep all in perspective. In a/the grand
course of things, the aquarium is "small potatoes"... Put emphasis where
emphasis lies>
Sorry for the long email, I was trying to give all
the needed info. Thanks for all the help and hard work.
-Ali
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
DSB Canister Filter? -
07/24/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I just started the fish
keeping hobby and I established a 90 gallon reef tank in my living room.
<<neat!>>
While doing research I came across the process of
denitrification.
<<Okay>>
I came to understand that Nitrate
filters are not reliable.
<<Mmm, probably not so much "not reliable"
as "fiddly"...requiring constant attention/adjustment to optimize their
usage>>
Instead, I read that a DSB could be very effective at
reducing Nitrates.
<<Indeed>>
Well the thing is, I don't want to
add a deep layer of sand in my display tank, and since I can't get a
sump (there's no space under the tank) I came up with an idea that might
seem weird: Could I apply a thick layer of sand in an empty canister
filter to act as a DSB filter?
<<Mmm, no...aside from not being a
large enough volume to be of benefit, pressurizing/running the filter
will cause the water to be "forced" through the entire volume of sand.
This will defeat the denitrification process as there will be no
"stratification" of the sand bed with the varying levels of oxygen
allowing the different classes of bacteria to form/populate...all of
which are part of/necessary to the process of denitrification>>
I
imagine it will fulfill the role of a sump.
<<Not in my opinion>>
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
<<Since a sump is out of the
question, you might wish to look in to the addition of a "hang-on" style
refugium in which to place the sand bed. Another option would be if you
have room "over" the tank to place a large (salt) bucket half-full of
sand with water pumped up to the bucket and allowed to gravity drain
back to the tank from a bulkhead fitting placed just below the lip of
the bucket>>
Also, I live next to the sea, where the sand in the
coastal areas is extra-fine (which I read is preferable for DBS). Could
I use this sand? or is it a bad idea?
<<Best not to use it due to
the possibility of introducing pollutants/pests>>
One last
question. Concerning macroalgae, how effective are they at
denitrification?
<<Not so much "denitrification...is a different
type of host/environment, performs a different function from the deep
sand bed...yet still useful through regular harvesting for removal of
organic compounds (including nitrate) as part of their nutrient uptake>>
Also is there a problem to add those in my display tank (I'm
particularly interested in red macroalgae)?
<<Can be done, though
some species can be very invasive (e.g. - Caulerpa sp.) while others
might be quickly consumed (e.g. - Gracilaria) by some fish species (e.g.
- Tangs/Rabbitfish)
Sorry for the long read.
<<No worries mate>>
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
<<I hope I have>>
Thank
you.
Mohammad
<<Regards, EricR>> Filter
dilemma... Lions and canisters, no my! 8/24/06
Hi
there! I've been asking lots of questions and every time your answers
were more than helpful, thank you so much! I have a filter question this
time... I am planning to set up a tank for a Lionfish (Pterois radiata).
It's a 65 gal,
<Will be too small...>
I already have the tank,
the lights, etc. Actually, I only need the filter to start the whole
thing. I know that Lions need a damn good filtration, so I was
wondering, what filter should I use? There are so many choices, and not
enough info...
<Lots of both available>
I was looking at these
two models, but if you have any other suggestions for this kind of
setup, it would be more than appreciated... anyway, there are the two
choices I have for the moment:
- Pentair Aquatics canister filters
(separate units, one mechanical, on chemical...)
<Nah...>
-
Eheim Professionel II (more expensive, but I heard that it's a good
choice...)
<Is better, but not the route I would go either...
Canisters aren't generally "appropriate technology" for marine
systems...>
I'm quite confused, and I'd really appreciate some help
here! Thank you very much!! BTW, the Radiata will be the only fish in
the tank... Merci infiniment! Ivan
<... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm
and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lionsysfaqs.htm
and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner> - Filter Media -
hello to all,
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
As I've read through thousands of your
very very helpful FAQs, I see that it is mentioned that the bio material
in wet/dry's are the cause for a nitrate factory. I am currently
running a Fluval 404 on my salt-going to reef-tank and I'm running those
little BioMax cylinders and active carbon. Would it be a wise move to
remove the bio-material and just run carbon and poly filter in my
canister filter? <Not using this canister filter, no. If a full-blown
reef is what you want to do, it would be wiser to consider entirely new
filtration gear to replace the Eheim.> I've got a 65g, w/ 60lbs of
liverock and protein skimmer. <Might be time for a sump/refugium.>
Thanks,
Jason
Surfs up!
<Cheers, J -- >
Eheim filters (and saltwater filtration)
Hi I have a 72 gallon
tank with two damsels, a Prizm pro 300 protein skimmer, a power head and
a Fluval 304.I noticed that my nitrates were a surprising 100 so I
called my LFS last week and they told me that my Fluval wasn't good
enough for my 72 so I bought a Eheim 2217 with the nitrate removing
media and I noticed that you don't really support canister filters. Do
you think that the Eheim will bring down my nitrates because I really
want to try an emperor angel that I've had my eye on for quite some time
now. thank you
<Mmm, well, I really like Eheim products in general,
and do use their canister filters (on my freshwater tanks)... But for a
tank of this size and type, you'd be better of revisiting your options
and brands. I would upgrade your skimmer... and look into other filter
modes. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm
and on... and on! through the many FAQs and article files linked (in
blue, at top). See you in a while. Bob Fenner>
Supplemental Filters
Dear Bob and Staff,
I stir things up a
bit on the live rock with a turkey baster about once a week. A lot of
debris flies around during the process. My question is since I am only
running a wet/dry filter with two overflows. Would it be wise to buy a
canister or diatom filter and maybe use it once a week to pull floating
debris out of the tank instead of hoping it will make its way to the
overflows? <Hello Jim. Yes, it would be a good idea. I use a Magnum
HOT for this purpose. It is versatile in that you can use the micron
cartridge for water polishing, or the media canister for whatever. James
(Salty Dog)
Thank you!
Wet Dry Filter, actually...
canister
I currently have a wet dry filter setup on a 150 gallon
saltwater tank. It is one of the systems that you need to start the
intake yourself by siphoning water through the tubes. Anyway my
question is this, can I switch over to a Canister filter? They
seem to be much quieter and easier to manage. A friend of mine has a
very nice saltwater setup in his office and he has an Eheim canister
filter. I only bought the wet/dry because the salesperson told me
that's what I needed. My wet dry has been set up for about 8 months
now.. Can I switch to a canister filter? If so what kind would you
recommend and what do I need to do to switch without affecting my fish?
<There are few canister filters out there (regardless of claims) that
can effectively handle a tank that large. You don't mention the use of
live rock so the wet/dry is a must for denitrification. The wet/dry also
does a very good job in exchanging gas/oxygen with the water. As far as
easier to manage, the wet/dry in my opinion is easier. Canister filters
do need to be cleaned weekly with new filtering pad replacement. James
(Salty Dog)> Thank You 100 gallon tank, mainly
filtration...
Tank goal: To keep corals, mushrooms, Caulerpa, and
slightly delicate fish like angels, etc. Yes Bob, I have a little more
than 500 pc watts to keep those corals and algae growing.
<Okay>
I
have bought a 100 gallon tank which has been sitting around for several
weeks but I just can't decide on what type of filtration to use. I
thought I had it all figured out but every fish store I go to disagrees
with my idea.
<As long as you agree with yourself... that's all that
matters>
I am planning to use an Eheim 2060 (500gph) with a large
skimmer and plenty of live rock (60-80 lbs). If I ever find a simple,
easy to understand sump system I may at sometime in the future add a
sump but that probably will not happen immediately unless you think it
is a necessity.
<Good attitude... or at least we're in agreement>
Four sales people at different shops and even Petwarehouse have all said
"Get a wet dry" but I don't want the added problems that are cataloged
on your website.
<A sump is a sump... you don't need a wet-dry... I
wonder how much money these folks might make by selling such off the
shelf systems...?>
These sales people insist that the Eheim won't be
enough filtration because: 1) it won't turn the tank over as many times
as I will need for a quasi-reef/fish tank,
<The live rock is/will be
the primary filter...>
2) gph on canisters decrease every day the
canister is used so the gph is constantly decreasing,
<Not so much
with a properly packed Eheim... I speak from decades of using them>
3) one canister will only take the water from one end of the tank
therefore not cycling as much overall water is needed, and other similar
complaints.
<Uh, the tank only has two ends... and you can/should
use submersible pumps, powerheads for more circulation, aeration...>
I want a simple, low maintenance filtration system that is effective
(performance and cost) as well as operating quietly and that will be
difficult for me to misuse.
<Your insight astounds me!>
Eheim
with live rock and a good skimmer sounds like a winner to me but no one
else seems to agree.
<Umm, I do.>
I have read lots of info and at
this point and have resigned myself to taking whatever your suggestions)
is.
<My advice is, of course to only let only your conscience be your
guide... You're on the/a correct path my friend. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
once again, David Dowless Adding another tank
Hello
again Mr. Fenner,
My brother-(who I brought into this great
hobby/lifestyle) is remodeling his house & getting a 180 gal tank for
his house & I'm jealous!
<We should start a club>
So, now I'm
considering another 50g to set on the other side of my new Sony 55
digital TV.
<Wowzah! I'm tired of squinting at our thirty inch
fossil cathode-ray type!>
My existing tank is a 50 w/2 Fluval 304's &
think I will set up the new tank the same way as the existing. My
question is, can I use one of the existing Fluvals along w/some of the
live rock & sand the shorten or eliminate the cycle process???
<Absolutely>
I would buy 2 new Fluvals and use one in the existing
tank and one in the new. What do you think?
<Sounds good>
My
brother is actually coming to Las Vegas this weekend & we are going for
all you can eat sushi sat night, you are welcome to join us.
<Ah, no
alligator tears for me, will be diving, photographing in the Bahamas>
I'll stop tempting you after this.
<Wanna bet?>
If you are ever in
Tustin, ca., definitely stop at a sushi bar called Tommy's-I have people
here in L.V. that make trips to so cal to eat there.
Thanx again for
your assistance.
<And you for yours. Bob Fenner> Re: Adding
another tank
Mr. Fenner,
I live in L.V., I don't bet!
If my
brother talks me into a room divider 150 or 180, can I still use the
Fluval, sand & rock to kick start the system?
<Yes>
I would
probably go w/an under stand system, drilled thru the bottom & not have
canister type filter. Can I still use the "macaroni" from my Fluval?
<Yes>
Have a terrific time in the Bahamas and Thanx again.
If you
go to Tommy's, have a Galaxy Roll. The best.
Chat w/you soon
Craig
<Yum! Bob Fenner> Canister filter question
Dear Bob,
<You got Steven pro today.>
I love your website, it has been a great
help in learning how to set up my saltwater tank. My tank has been going
for about six months. It is a 12 gallon tank (one of the ones from
Eclipse) that I have taken the hood off of and put a power compact light
and a glass top for better lighting on. I have about 18-20lbs of live
rock and about an inch of live sand as a substrate. I wanted to add a
protein skimmer so I bought the Prizm skimmer as I read on your site
that it was a good one for a small tank. I have a few polyps and one
medium mushroom. I also have two clown fish that are fairly small. My
levels are pretty good pH 8.1, nitrite 0, nitrate 10, ammonia 0,
alkalinity 4meq/l, KH 12 and I add the standard trace elements
Kalkwasser, strontium, coral vital, iodine. My question is that now that
I have the protein skimmer I have to get rid of my filter that was
hanging off the back of the tank because I have run out of room. A
friend of mine said he would give me his Eheim professional II 2026 and
all I would need to do is buy the substrate for the inside. This is a
good canister filter that would solve my space problem, but is it too
much for my small tank? In the next year I would like to move my small
tank into a larger tank (probably a 30 or 50 gallon) so I thought this
would be a good filter to grow with. Next question, should I use all of
the recommended substrates (Ehfisubstrat, Ehfimech, 3pads) so that it
becomes a biological filter in addition to my live rock? I asked at a
store and they said that usually in a small tank you would change the
pads every 2 months and every 6 months you should rinse the substrates
in salt water. He said that it was okay to let most of your bacteria go
to the filter and that in the end this would be beneficial for the tank.
Does this all sound correct to you?
<I have a suggestion for you that
is going to sound weird, but it is what I would do. I would get the
Eheim and not put any media in it. Your 12 gallon tank is pretty small
to start with. Once you added the rock and sand, it probably only has
about 8 gallons of water in it. You are not thinking of adding any more
fish than your two clowns, are you? I would use the Eheim for additional
circulation (~250 gph) and water holding capacity (maybe a gallon). Your
rock and sand will provide you with enough bacterial surface area for
your two fish.>
Thanks for your help. -Pete
<You are welcome.
-Steven Pro> Eheim 2213
can I use an Eheim 2213 to
filter a marine tank. I own one and it is the ultimate fresh water
filter, I would think it would be just as good at filtering saltwater, I
am converting my 55 gallon and I have in tank canister and Eheim
canister. there is more than enough water turnover, or is my Eheim
useless.
<not useless at all... a very fine filter that can indeed be
used as your primary in a marine system...but not the only filter. Some
live rock and/or a secondary mechanical filter will be necessary and
give you great peace of mind with your investment in the magically
beautiful marine animals. My very strong advice is to add as much live
rock as you can afford. It is so efficient as a source of filtration
that in some cases it can actually outperform and replace your Eheim.
Still keep the Eheim for carbon and gross filtration>
thanks Sam
<best regards, Anthony> Re: Filter change
Hi all-
Thank you for the reply to my filter question. As a follow-up, will
switching from a hang-on filter to a canister make a significant
difference?
<most canister filters are larger than hang-ons and may
very well be more effective by virtue of their size. Pick a good brand
like Eheim that has been around for decades and is tried and true>
I
am currently running a 55 gallon saltwater aquarium with about 30 pound
of live rock, a CPR Bak Pak skimmer, an undergravel filter, and a
Whisper hang on filter. Basically, it's a FOWLR (plus one starfish) with
a Cardinalfish, Koran angel, yellow tang, two striped damsels, and moon
wrasse.
<hmmm... do maintain that UG filter diligently>
The
biggest reason for my considering a filter change is the frequency with
which I'm changing the filter pads, sometimes twice a week.
<either
you are feeding WAY too much food or your skimmer has not been adjusted
to collect good skimmate DAILY or a combination of both. A canister
filter is not going to solve your problem... only put a bandage on a
symptom>
I know a canister filter requires maintenance as well, but I
wonder if I'm harming water quality by having a filter with less
filtering ability (although water parameters test fine).
<if you get
the canister, do modify with a course foam block (like from a Hagen
AquaClear filter) on the intake strainer. Rinse and reuse this
frequently and this will dramatically extend the life of the media in
your canister>
Thanks in advance for all your help. All good wishes,
Daryl Klopp
<best regards, Anthony> New saltwater setup
Bob;
I just happened upon your website today and am astounded not
only by the fact that it is so comprehensive in information, but that
you make yourself available for questions from newbies by myself. :-) I
am grateful!
<You are welcome my friend. Given a similar background
and desires, you would likely do the same>
At the risk of boring you
to tears with simple newbie questions ....
I've purchased and read
your book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist," and have found it to be
extremely useful. However, I'm a bit confused by the conflicting
information I've read on the Internet (of course) regarding the
usefulness of canister filters in marine aquaria.
<Different
strokes... canisters can be useful adjuncts... for added biological
filtration, handy places to launch chemical filtrants... Not a "one item
does it all" type of filtration however... and do have some drawbacks
(tendency to clog, generate abundant nitrates... inconvenience of
cleaning...>
I'm about to set up my first saltwater tank, and have
purchased the following, upon the advice of my LFS:
Standard 55gal
tank
Fluval 404 canister filter
SeaClone protein skimmer
standard hood setup with 2 24" 15-watt Triton fluorescent tubes
40
lbs aragonite reef sand
My intent is to begin with a
fish-only-with-live-rock setup. After some time, I'll probably also add
some hardy invertebrates.
My LFS recommended that I fill the canister
filter with biological filtration media, only.
<One route to go>
I've since read many disparaging comments on the Internet regarding
canister filters being "nitrate factories," and I'm getting the
impression that I may be better off upgrading my lighting and, after the
nitrogen cycle has completed, removing the canister filter and having
only the skimmer, and live rock for denitrification.
<All valid
points that might be instituted.>
If I keep the canister filter, will
my fish and invertebrates be doomed to unhealthy nitrate levels unless I
do water changes on an incredibly frequent basis?
<You'd be better
off with a "sump type" filter arrangement.>
Some people on the
Internet even go so far as to state that a canister filter and live rock
work at "cross-purposes" ...
<Actually they're more complimentary...
in simple terms of aerobic and anaerobic de/nitrification...>
Any
advice?
<Plenty... at this juncture, do keep studying, evaluating
this apparently conflicting information (you will find it actually is
not so... much more like the real universe, things are better/worse
"depending"...) until you can sort through your choices... Some
substantial part of the fun and learning from involvement in our
interests is the personal growth of discerning opinion and fact. You
will see. Bob Fenner>
Thank you for your time.
- Dave Clark
Extra filter pump for Fluval 404
Hi Bob,
My present filtering
is done by a Fluval 404. My problem is I moved the Fluval behind a wall
a way from the tank. Now my water flow is very low, due to the distance
tank.
<Actually... practically speaking, this distant placement
should make little difference (the pressure in the intake line should
offset the "head" resistance in the discharge side... unless it's a very
long way (tens of feet let's say) or you've reduced the tubing
diameter... Do look for "kinks" in the line... restrictions through
valving, filter media/packing, fittings (I would remove any "spray bars"
for instance.>
My question is I just purchased a Mag 7 to help the
Fluval with pumping. Should I place the Mag before the Fluval or after.
I also have a UV sterilizer after the Fluval. The Mag 7 is rated @
700gph and the Fluval is much less. I don't want to damage the Mag or
Fluval with this increase in pump volume. Any help would be great!!
<I am very leery here of telling you to try and do something I myself
would not do... If a centrifugal pump were added, it would be placed
ahead of the restrictive filter (such pumps "push" by design,
engineering, not "pull"... However there may be a real danger in
"popping" the filter canister, O-ring... I would NOT add a pump here...
Let's chat over some other possibilities... like adding a sump/refugium
to your system and using the new pump there... or moving the canister
filter closer to the system... or both. Bob Fenner>
Thank you
Jamie Re: Extra filter pump for Fluval 404
Thanks Bob
for the suggestions, I would say I have about 12 - 15 feet of hosing
round trip drop & rise for hoses would be about 3 ½ to 4 feet).
<Good
input, once again the height is of little consequence... as the water is
"pushed" as much as it is "pulled" with the lines originating and ending
at the same approximate level (relative to the mass of this planet.>
The intake side, is the Fluval intake pipe that comes from manufact. The
hose travels down the back side of the tank to a bulkhead in the wall. I
live in a Bi-level house with a crawl space under the steps. Fluval & UV
are placed here for easy access.
<Oh! The induced drag through the
sterilizer may be significant... could be a/the deciding factor...
possibly might be worth experimenting here... cutting the hose between
the canister and U.V. and inserting the Mag 7 there...>
The return
side is configured in a similar manner with another bulk head in the
wall returning to the tank the cleaned water. The new hoses are ¾ ,
<Is this 3/4"? I hope so. Can't make out the tiny print>
I think the
Fluval hoses are only ½, which I don't use anymore. I thought maybe the
Mag 7 after the UV to help draw the water back
up to the tank.
<Not made to "draw" but to push... hard on the pump... may cavitate
badly if placed to "suck"... Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Jamie
Marine set-up query
Hi Anthony
<cheers>
Sorry, one last
thing. I checked my 2ft tank for fit in my 4ft cabinet last night and
had bit of a thought upon seeing the sump and Fluval 404 together. Could
I run the 404 intake hose from the sump and use it to pump the sump
water back up to the tank ?
<no my friend. This great little filter
was not designed to handle that sort of head pressure. You will need a
dedicated pump for the purpose>
Cheers, Scott
<kindly, Anthony>
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