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FAQs about Canister, Cartridge Filters For Marine Systems,
Troubleshooting/Repair
Related Articles: Physical Filtration, Review
of the ViaAqua Canister Filter,
Related FAQs: Canister Filters 1,
Canister Filters 2, Canister Filters
3, Outside Power Filters, &
FAQs on: Rationale/Use,
Placement, Media,
Plumbing, Maintenance, By
Manufacturer: Eheim,
Fluval, Other Brands, |
Mmm, best to prime these units by starting with suction on the
discharge side, allowing water to siphon in through the intake/s...
filling the unit/s... perhaps tilting, inverting to clear last
bubbles. |
Air Bubbles Coming From
Hydor Prime 30 Canister Return Hose/Bubble Trouble 11/3/09
Hello,
<Hi Aaron>
I have a 30 gallon tank, along with a Hydor Prime 30 and a SeaClone 100.
I have managed to "fine tune" the air valve on the SeaClone so there is
no bubbles coming from that. However I am getting bubbles that randomly
shoot out of the return hose. They are small, fine bubbles but they are
very annoying. I have repositioned the return hose in many ways,
shortened the inlet and outlet hose, verified there are no kinks or
leaks. What can I do to fix this issue? Please help!
<It is very unlikely the problem lies with the return hose. Check the
drain hose connection at the filter for a good seal, and also the "O"
ring seal on the pump housing.
Carefully remove the "O" ring and inspect for cuts, clean out groove
with a toothbrush, then clean and apply clear silicone lube ("O" ring
lubricant by Lifegard) on the "O" ring. This should take care of the
problem. Also check for obstructions in the drain line to the filter and
be sure the intake screen is free of debris.
<James (Salty Dog)>
Aaron
Eheim 2028 losing prime\sucking air 4/23/2009
Hey Guys,
<Hi Wes.>
My name is Wes, I just purchased an Oceanic 120 gallon tank, I chose
the Eheim 2028 canister to filter this tank.
<A good filter. Will last years with proper maintenance.>
After I put everything together, I started the system, and found
that when I try to put the water flow to the
maximum setting, It starts to get air bubbles in the intake line,
then stops cycling the water.
<Hmm, you have an air leak somewhere in the intake.>
The pump continues to run, but the water is not flowing through the
tubes.
This unit also came with aftermarket intake and spray bar.
made by Eheim which I have installed.
<I have the same setup, it is a very good kit. - Did you put all of
the o-rings on and lubricate them when you put the intake and
discharge pipes together?>
When the unit stops cycling the water, I can push the primer down a
few times and the unit will cycle for about ten seconds then stop
again.
<Priming freed the airlock on the pump.>
This unit also has a flow rate indicator on the return. When I put
the flow rate to max the indicator turns completely orange (meaning
the system is blocked). I have taken the media baskets out two times
now to ensure that the intake tube is positioned correctly (which it
appears to be). Could it be that the aftermarket pieces are causing
this problem?
<Seems to be - I think you have something not set up correctly -
missing or rolled o-ring.>
What other suggestions do you have to rectify this problem?...
<Take the intake apart and make sure everything is assembled
properly.
Look for any physical defects in the tube as well.>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Please keep in mind I have
never dealt with a canister filter before..:) Thanks for any help
you can offer!
<My pleasure>
<Mike>
Re: Eheim 2028 losing prime\sucking air 4/24/2009
<Hi Wes>
Okay...found the air bubble problem...I had a rolled O-ring at the
top of the intake tube (good call on that one by the way! ).
<Thank you.>
The filter runs continuously now, but when I try to put the water
flow on max the water flow indicator still goes orange indicating
there is a blockage.
The filter is still cycling fine, just with the orange indicator.
Could this be because the spray bar is about 2 inches under the
water, so the flow meter is registering this added pressure?
<Bingo.>
Again any advise would be greatly appreciated!
<In my 150 gallon FOWLR, I removed the spray bar entirely. and just
had the elbow just under the surface of the water. If you want to
keep the spray bar, do get it closer to the waterline.>
Thanks
<My pleasure, Mike>
Broken Canister Filter 1/22/09
Hi WWM team
<Hello Dan>
I love your site, it is extremely helpful.
<Thank you.>
My
question... I have a Fluval 403 and the motor died. I know it's not the
impeller or anything like that... it's the electrical cord connection.
<The connection at the pump or the wall end?>
Anyways, the filter
maintains a good seal with no leaks.
Since I don't have the $$ to
replace it, I was wondering if I could connect a water pump (I have a
mag drive and a ViaAqua lying around) just after the output, as long as
it is about the same flow rate?
Shouldn't this achieve the same
result?...pumping water back into the tank.
<Likely will not be worth
the effort as the replacement pump would be a good distance from the
outlet of the Fluval. This will make it difficult for the pump to draw
from the canister and likely will cause cavitation of the pump resulting
in a flurry of micro bubbles in your tank.
I'm thinking you are going
to have to create a siphon by drawing on the end of the outlet hose and
then plugging in the pump. Not something I'd want to do on a regular
basis, and, even it it worked, it would discourage you from cleaning the
filter when needed. You would be better off looking for a used filter on
some of the forums.
Most are willing to sell at very reasonable
prices.>
Thanks so much!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Dan J
<<James... why not suggest replacing the cord? RMF>>
Upgrading Filtration 12/10/08
Hi,
<Tina.>
I have a
question about maybe upgrading a canister filter. I have a 90g euro
braced acrylic tank.
Here is what I have. 175 lbs live rock, 60 lbs
live sand, Aqua C remora protein skimmer, magnum 350,
Rena xp3
canister, Hydor Koralia 3. Here is my problem/question. Here is the
situation. Started tank with live rock & sand almost 2 years ago.
Happily added fish & LPS corals over a year. Nitrates went up to 20, did
water changes, talked to www crew, too many fish, took out 1/2 of them,
nitrates now at 20 after 20g water change down to 10 over a week back up
to 20. Fish load: 1 jaw fish, 1 flame angel, 3 green chromis, 1 6 line
wrasse, 1 anthis,1 tomato clown, 1 Pseudochromis. other stuff LPS, 1
clam, 1 anemone, 2 shrimp, snails, tiny starfish. November had a problem
with hair algae & dying off of a clam, some fish, and most of my snails,
again www crew solved the problem. (you guys are sooooo smart.)
Anyway today my Rena stopped working after only having it a year. I
don't know if I should fix it (have a call in to Mars to see if they
know what's wrong there) or upgrade. I know canisters can cause nitrates
but I clean it weekly & have only the sponges & white filter in there, I
also clean the tubes etc every 6 months. Do you think it is causing the
high nitrates or still too many fish?
<Your bioload sounds fine from
a filtration standpoint. The canister filter is really not doing
anything for you at this point, your skimmer and live rock can handle
the job.>
I started off with the LPS corals but am selling them off
because I want sps corals, but I know there is no point until I get rid
of the rest of the algae & get the nitrates down to 0.
<Not zero,
but low and under control.>
All my tests except the nitrates are
where they should be. Also do I have any time to spare? Without the Rena
running (completely took it out, don't want stuff building in the filter
or tubes) is my tank a ticking time bomb?
<No, but do be sure to
supplement the flow the canister was providing.>
Should I run down to
Petco & buy a canister or do I have some time to order something better?
I have thought about either another canister (maybe Eheim), a wet/dry, a
sump with live rock, or a refugium.
<One of the latter two, or both!
If you do go with a sump, consider drilling the tank rather than using a
hang on the back overflow.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ovrflowboxfaq4.htm>
To be honest I really
thought that the 175 lbs of live rock & 60 lbs of sand was supposed to
be my filter but the nitrates suggest otherwise, unless the Rena is the
problem (I do 20 g water change weekly). So better filter?
<Yes, in
a sump/refugium form.>
Maybe more live rock & sand & adding more
Hydors for circulation & no canister?
<Bingo.>
Give it up totally
and admit I don't know what the heck I am doing?
<Don't give up,
keep reading and learning.>
Any help you can give will be much
appreciated. Ya'll are fantastic!
<Thank you.>
Thanks in advance
Tina
<Welcome, Scott V.> Re: Upgrading Filtration,
esp. canister f' 12/10/08
Hi,
Scott thanks for your
quick response to my letter about the Rena filter & upgrading.
<Hello Tina, you're welcome.>
Turns out the Rena xp3 just needed a
impeller.
<Not uncommon.>
But now you have me thinking instead of
investing in a sump can I just take the baskets/media out of the Rena &
fill it with small pieces of live rock?
Big enough of course not to
obstruct the flow.
<You could do this. Once you go sump you will
never go back!>
I don't know if you have to have a open sump to off
gas or not.
<It is better to have an open top. The increased surface
area is one of the benefits of a sump.>
Or if it needs light.
<Only if you are growing a macroalgae in there.>
Frankly I am not
brave enough to drill a hole in a $700 tank filled with who knows (or
wants to) how many $$ of live stuff with no other home to save them from
one little oops!
<Understood. If you use the hang on the back units
do be sure to use two, with each one capable of handling the overflow
duties on its own in case the other fails.>
I have asked for a
refugium for Christmas, we will see if Santa loves me or not ha ha!
thanks again
Tina
<We will see. Talk soon, Scott V.>
Rena filter question, can. rep. 11/27/08
I've read through your excellent FAQ on canister filters but have a
problem which doesn't come up there. A Rena XP2 filter which has been
running happily for three or so years has started to pump
intermittently. It will pump as normal for five minutes or so then go
off for a few minutes. You can hear the motor just start and stop
running - it doesn't sound like air is being expelled at any time. I've
checked all the connections, cleaned the impeller, and reprimed
thoroughly clearing air bubbles, but none of this seemed to help. Might
it be the unit's fault?
Cheers
Al
<Mmm... could be a few
things... the more likely is that the impeller magnet is losing its
magnetism... Does happen. I would first replace this before junking the
entire unit. The next most likely source of cause here is some sort of
intake blockage... that is, a "vacuum" on the non-discharge side of the
unit... I would remove, possibly bleach/rinse the intake line tubing,
thoroughly clean the fittings leading to... and the media in the filter
canister... Sometimes this sort of "vacuum" leads the impeller to "fall
out of synch" with the motors matching magnetic field. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rena filter question 11/27/08
as a follow-up
to this: I've timed the cycle and it seems to fairly reliably go 9
minutes on and 3 minutes off. Bizarre!
cheers
al
<Interesting... one other possibility is some sort of malfunction
in/with the motor, the electronics regulating it... BobF>
Re: Rena filter question 11/28/08
Many thanks
for your generous advice. I discovered the cause - a buildup of
limescale on a heater had caused it to crack, fill with water, and then
earth itself through the filter motor, frying it (this morning it was
down to 2mins on / 7 min.s off - hopefully that will still have been
enough to keep the bacteria in there alive.)
<Likely so... and yikes!
Glad you weren't electrocuted... I would GFI all circuits that have to
do with any/all aquariums... Please read here re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gfcimarines.htm>
I replaced both the
filter (just the power head) and the heater and everything's running
nicely again. Fish don't seem too bothered about it and temp didn't drop
below 22' so I think I've had a lucky escape.
Best wishes,
Al
<Thank you for this follow-up Al. It's posting/sharing may help many
others profoundly. Bob Fenner> Canister Filter Flow
Problems 9/8/08
Hello,
I have an external filter and it
was working well for about 2 months, but after the 2 months it has been
really weak. It used to be able to push the water through 2 plastic
pipes (the ones with the holes in so the water can be sprayed out) but
now it can only just about do one. I have cleaned the whole filter with
new sponges but it is still the same. What could be the problem? If it
helps it is a Aqua - Pro 2sp.
<Do actually check the lines, run a
brush through them to clear any obstructions, along with the water
passages in the filter itself. Do also check the impeller in the filter,
this may have something wound up in it or just need a cleaning. One
other thing to note is that if air is introduced into the lines during
cleaning you may need to prime the filter just as if it were just
installed.>
Thanks
<Welcome, Scott V.> Re:
filter... 9/9/08
Hello
Thanks for your email. How
could I clean the pipes that lead to the tank?
Because the two are
really dirty an I think that is what is making it go slower.
Thanks
<Greetings. You can either just flush them through with tap water, or
else use special brushes on long, flexible wire handles sold for
cleaning filter pipes at aquarium stores. Cheers, Neale.>
Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem 9/25/07
Hi there,
<Dave>
I just set up a brand new Rena Filstar xP4 filter, but something is
wrong and water will not flow through the circuit.
<Mmm... likely
an air pocket... about the pump impeller itself...>
When I prime
the filter, the canister fills and air comes out of the outlet pile
as described in the manual, but when I switch on after 2 minutes,
the motor turns, but no water seems to be being sucked into the
filter,
<Actually... it is NOT sucked in... gravity supplies
this, and it is pumped centrifugally out...>
and the outlet hose
only fills to the level of the waterline. I can hear the motor
turning inside the canister and see the water at the top being
stirred around a bit, but nothing else is happening.
<Not
uncommon>
The filter is set up as instructed in the manual, and
using the filter media provided. It is located between the minimum
and max height below the waterline (~50" below the top of a 21" high
tank), inlet and outlet clips, filter box clips and disconnect and
pipe joints are tight. All components are new out of the box.
<Well described>
Any idea what the problem could be and how to
fix?
<Yes... "carefully" tilt the entire unit a few times...
while running the pump... on to its side or even slightly
inverted/upside down... this should mix enough water about the
volute (the area surrounding and including the pump impeller) to
vent the remaining air out... Voila!>
I have not been able to
find any troubleshooting info on xP series on the
www, as
everyone says how easy they are to prime.
<Canister filters can
be the Dickens to prime the first time... Only takes a small amount
of air around a well-balanced impeller to end up as you presently
are here>
Hope you can offer advice,
Dave
<I do hope you
have the room, the length of tubing to do the maneuver mentioned...
Do write back with applause or further consternation if you would.
Cheers, Bob Fenner> Re:
Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem 9/27/07
Its
consternation I'm afraid Bob.
<Rats!>
I could hardly wait to
go home from work to try your advice. I had already tried gingerly
tilting the tank from side to side and squeezing the sides to create
some pressure to force air out, but had been wary of manhandling the
canister with the motor running.
<Yes... is heavy, clumsy to
move about... and the worry of hose disconnection...>
With added
confidence, I followed your advice. Some air did come out, but the
filter did not spring into action. I noticed that while tipping the
unit, I got minor leakage from the seam of the motor housing
compartment, and when I took the top off it had water inside. I
don't know if that should be, but I guess if there is a route for
water to come out, there is a route for air to get in?
<Mmm,
shouldn't be, no>
After that I got rid of the air in the outlet
hose, by removing the quick disconnect, opening the valve with my
thumb over the inlet and siphoning down the outlet hose.
<Good>
I also filled the canister to the brim and carefully put the top
back on, to exclude air. That did not work either, but I noticed
that when I ran the motor, new air bubbles appeared near the top of
the canister and an air pocket forms where the motor unit sits
inside canister box.
<Mmmm>
I'm fairly convinced that it
should not be this difficult, and that I have a defective unit with
an air leak through the top of the canister that is stopping it from
operating. Nothing left to do I think, but to go back to the vendor
and ask for a replacement.
<Yes... but first...>
Will let you
know what happens and look forward to posting about a working and
stocked community aquarium in the future. Meanwhile I will browse
your excellent articles demystifying cycling.
Cheers,
Dave
<I would try taking all the hose sections apart Dave... re-fitting
them (pushing all back together hard)... and with the ding-dang
thing basically empty... try starting it all again... with the
intake line siphoning while you use the disconnected discharge line
(as you state above) discharging into a bucket... with the pump
running. Am pretty sure this is an "air lock" situation (about the
impeller) still... that just needs to be purged... IF there is an
air leak on the intake side though... this does need to be
remedied... Wish I was there physically to aid you... BobF>
Re: Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem solved 10/2/07
Hi Bob,
<Dave>
To tie off this thread I finally found out what was wrong
with the filter.
<Ahh~!>
The unit I purchased was supplied
missing a small black cap that covers off one of the ports in the
top motor housing unit (not shown in the manual),
hence no
pressure. The LFS replaced the unit, so I will soon be up and
running.
<Great!>
Thanks for your tips, which mean that I now
know what to do if I have any problem with the filter in future when
the tank is stocked.
Dave
<Thank you for this useful
follow-up. Will post for others edification. Cheers, BobF>
Re: Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem solved 10/3/07
No worries
Bob,
<Dave>
Actually this problem was a blessing in disguise,
otherwise I would probably not have discovered all the wonderful
information at WetWebMedia until I had a more serious problem with a
tank full of fish.
<Ahh!>
Just to add that the Rena Filstar
xP4 really is very quiet, and had it not been for the missing part,
would have been simplicity itself to set-up and operate, so despite
my problem I would happily recommend it to others.
<Good>
I'll follow up on the QC with the manufacturer (now Mars Fishcare)
Dave
<Real good. BobF> |
Noisy Eheim Pro 2028 7/8/07
Hi
I have purchased a
2nd hand [had been used for 6 months] Eheim 2028.
<A very good
product in my estimation:
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=EH2028K>
It
works perfectly but seems as if air may be present as it ‘rattles’ when
the taps are fully open. If I partially close the taps the noise stops.
Is this normal?
<No>
If not how can I dispel any remaining air?
<Mmm, a few ways, but the most assured is likely to turn the power off,
disconnect the discharge line, and have it lowered into a bucket, allow
the water to drain/siphon through the unit... perhaps while giving the
filter itself a few gentle shakes side-to-side to dislodge any air
caught in the pump... If you can get a friend to help, watch the
lines/water, try turning the pump motor on/off a couple times during
this process...>
Thanks
Alan
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Filter Help, canister with air lock
Hi all.
I have a Rena XP
canister filter(4 yrs old) that will not fill up with water.
Usually after I clean it, all I have to do is push the quick disconnect
valve down and the filter begins priming. Today that was not the case. I
filled the inlet pipe up with water, thinking that it just needed a
little more, but it still would not take water in. What is wrong with
it? I don't see any leaks. I need to do something quick!
Thanks in
advance.
<Most likely there is a bit of air trapped in and around the
impeller (the volute)... this can be most easily cleared by carefully
lifting and tilting the filter canister on to its side a few times while
the motor is running... Another technique is to pull the discharge line
from the tank and let the water run into a bucket on the floor... this
will clear the air out. Bob Fenner> Ammonia and Nitrite Emergency
6/6/05
Hi Crew, my name is Justin and I am having a bit of a
problem on the action I should take with the screw-up I just made. I
have a 55 gallon salt water tank with a moray eel in it. Since I am a
beginner I decided it would be a really good idea to clean my filter
(you guys probably know where I am going with this). So I rinsed my
Eheim 2028, and all of the media of course, in tap water. From reading
on this really helpful website (and lack of common since), I realized I
just sent all of my beneficial microbes down the drain. <Hmm... this can
be a problem. More because of the chlorine rather than the rinsing
itself.>
So everything seemed fine for 2 days then BOOM ammonia that
was 0 is 1.5 and nitrite that was less than .3 is now .9. I am terrified
for my eel, he seems fine, but I'm worried my microbes will not come
back fast enough. I have 40 lbs of live sand and 20lbs of live rock I am
hoping that they will help. I am sorry if some one has asked a similar
question but I could not find it after an hour of searching. Well I hope
you can get back to me soon and help me with my problem. Thanks
Justin <Your live rock and sand should easily meet the filtration needs
of your tank. I would consider removing the canister filter for a more
thorough cleaning and monitoring the water chemistry closely. If the
ammonia or nitrite get any higher, I would institute a couple of large
water changes, but otherwise, let them come down naturally. Best
Regards. AdamC.> Dad's old canister filter... 8/15/05
To
Whom it may concern,
I have recently inherited my Dad's old
fish tank. He has a magnum 220 canister filter. I have taken it apart
and cleaned it several times. The last few days it has been spitting out
a lot of air bubbles. It has recently been cleaned and all the
connections are secure and air-tight. Could this simply mean that the
filter is just getting old and needs replacing? It is probably almost 10
years old. Thank you for your
insight. Dan
<Mmmm, there is an air gap along (most likely) the intake side of this
filter somewhere... I would use sprayed water at the fittings, a bit of
length of tubing placed next to your ear and at these junctions to
see/hear where air is being entrained... I might buy/replace all the
flexible tubing (not much money) at the Home Depot, Lowe's... before
canning this canister... Bob Fenner> Canister
filter stops running 10/5/05
Hi, and thank you for taking
the time to read this.
<Howdy, welcome>
I have a Serafil 900
canister filter. Recently it switched itself off an stopped running.
It's done this before and normally taking it apart, cleaning it and
putting it together again sets it in order. That doesn't seem to be
working this time however. When I switch it back on it runs for maybe 3
minutes and then just stops. During that time I can hear the sound of
water running inside it, which I gather is air circulating around the
impeller. I don't think there's a huge amount of air in there though and
this hasn't been a major problem in the past. Other than that everything
seems to be fine. All the parts fit together well and are all in good
condition. Is there anything you can think of that would cause it to
just stop like that? I just wanted to check that it's not something that
I'm doing incorrectly.
Thank you,
Dan
<The easiest way to
prevent this is to fill the canister filter by siphoning through the in
line and out the discharge... in a bucket... Once set-up, air-locks can
be released by (carefully) tilting/inverting the running filter, upside
down. Bob Fenner>
Ammonia problem, stopped canister filters
02-05-06
Hello to all. Well have one big problem and I am in
need of some advice on what to do. Might have happened to you guys
before but this is the first time it has happened to me. I have a 29g
TruVu with 40lbs of LR and 3in sandbed of LS. I currently have pair of
true perculas, had citron clown goby, and LPS live coral. This
mourning when i woke up and turned my tank lights on I noticed that my
clown goby was nowhere to be found. I looked and looked for him but he
disappeared. I then thought to myself that he must have died because of
lack of oxygen because yesterday my xp1 Rena had got clogged with some
macro algae that was in my tank but got sucked up in my
filter. Yesterday the clown goby was breathing very rapidly so that why
I had checked the filter. I thought by cleaning it and unclogging that
would fix the problem but it didn't because this morning the goby was
nowhere to be found.
<Uhh, unclogging the canister filter... you did
rinse it out thoroughly before returning it to service I hope/trust>
So then I began to look for him. I couldn't find him so my next step
was removing the
LR piece by piece...And that got me pissed because
once I moved all the rock I still didn't find him. Has this ever
happened to anyone? If so what did you do?
<...?>
I
tested for ammonia and it had gone up to .25mg/l. Now I for sure know
he is dead but can't find it. I do have bristleworms in the tank and
also spaghetti worms. Could they have already ate him up?
<Yes>
Could they have buried his body in the sand to eat? Please
help me. I did a water change and it did seem to help but I still have
a feeling the ammonia will continue to go up again? Any advice in what
I can do to fix this problem?
<Time going by at this point>
...I
have had my tank for over a year now so I know I am past the cycling
stage. Never have had this problem with ammonia ever. I moved my clown
fish to my QT but am scared to lose my corals! Help me please. Any
advice is better than nothing.
<The ammonia anomaly was almost
certainly caused by the plugged then unplugged canister filter...
causing the demise of the goby... perhaps the worms eating it. Bob
Fenner>
Equipment/Filters...Bursts of bubbles from a Magnum
350 5/25/06
Bob, <James today, Bob exploring the
mysteries of the deep in HI> <<Heeee! RMF>>
I noticed the question
from Donna regarding air-bursts from her HOT Magnum. I have been using
three 350's and two HOT's for several years and the only time I observed
air building up in the canister (and causing bursts of bubbles) was when
I had an airstone near the intake and it would suck in the occasional
bubble until a larger bubble was built up inside the canister. and then
it would periodically spew a mist of air droplets in the exhaust several
times a minute. This sounds like it would have been obvious to the most
casual observer, but it took me several days of messing with everything
I could think of on the Magnum until finally I was glaring at the
snorkels in frustration and saw a bubble spiral around into the intake
side. (D'oh!!) Using 5 Magnums for the last three years and that's the
only way I've seen air get entrained - through the intake. <Thank you
for this, Mark, will post. James (Salty Dog)>
Mark Hein
What's This Spewing From My Canister Filter?...Bacterial Film - 07/25/06
Good evening WWM crew,
<<Hello Lorri>>
I have spent the better
part of today researching my most recent quandary about my new (3 month
old) 40 gallon marine aquarium. My husband is starting to growl about
not getting dinner, so I felt it was time to ask my question directly to
you...the experts.
<<Mmm, yes...must maintain the peace at home
<grin> >>
Today's question is basically this: Why does the output
tube from my Fluval 204 spew copious amounts of opaque junk (looks like
small pieces of uneaten raw shrimp) back into the tank after I have
turned off the canister to clean the filter and then restart the filter
according to manufacturer’s instructions? I am obviously doing
something wrong. Just not sure what. As always any input would be
appreciated.
<<You're not doing anything wrong, nor is this anything
to be worried about. Your filter's output tube (indeed ALL your tank’s
plumbing lines) gets coated with a filmy mat of bacteria. This is a
natural occurrence and one reason we recommend over sizing plumbing
lines a bit to allow for the decreased flow that occurs as the material
builds on the inside surfaces of the plumbing. These mats grow in
relation to the pressure/flow direction of the water in the
filter/plumbing lines. When you stop the flow, the bacterial mats
"relax" a bit and when the flow starts up again bits are torn away and
these are what you see exit in to your tank. In my experience these
"bundles" of bacteria/bio-film are harmless and quickly dissipate in the
tank>>
By the way please share my good news with Mr. Fenner
regarding the Purple Long Tentacle Anemone whose tentacles were slightly
burned when they came in contact with some diluted marine buffer I had
added to the aquarium "she" has made a most spectacular recovery and
appears beautiful and healthy again. I now add the buffer during water
changes per his advice. Thank him for his reassurance.
<<You just
did...am sure he will see this>>
Lorri Thanos
<<Regards, EricR>>
Bubble/Cyano Issues - 08/22/06
Greetings from Grayslake, IL
<<Back at you from Columbia, SC>>
I've read a lot (I won't say all)
of the FAQs regarding bubbles but I am still running across an issue.
<<Ok>>
Here is my set up:
- 29 gallon reef tank up and running
for about 8 months now
- CPR Bak Pak
- Magnum 350 Canister
Filter
- 2x96 Watt 10k PC (On for 7 hours)
- 2 actinic bulbs PC
(On for 10 hours)
- 40(+-) lb live rock
- 2-inch live sand
-
RO/DI 4-stage system
Here is my problem. I still get bursts of air
bubbles from the canister filter.
<<Hmm, air intrusion from
somewhere...builds up to the point where the bubble is large enough to
"escape" to the outflow/impeller chamber of the filter pump...thus the
"bursts" of bubbles>>
I have broken down the system and have
replaced the o-rings and have added metal clamps on the all of the hoses
to try to tighten it all down. Can't really find any leaks in the
system.
<<Have you tried "sealing" all the joints one-at-a-time with
Vaseline?
<Mmm, would not use a Petroleum-based material... too
likely to act as a solvent... soften the tubing in the long/er run.
Perhaps a Silicone-based lube. RMF>
Have you checked to see if
bubbles are being generated/pulled in to the filter through the intake
from the intake water chamber (sump?)?>>
In addition to the bursts
of air bubbles, when the lights are on I get a small amount of bubbles
constantly.
<<Check the placement of the filter intake/the
possibility of bubbles in the surrounding water being pulled in to the
filter>>
Suggestions? Replace it?
<<Might be worth a try>>
What would you guys/gals recommend for a replacement?
<<I've always
had good luck with the Fluval line of canister filters...and if you have
the bucks, Eheim is a good choice>>
I am also getting some muck on
the top of the sand when the lights are on but it is gone when the
lights are off?
<<Cyanobacteria...possibly>>
Some of my live
rock has turned red on the tips, don't think that it is coralline
algae. Some form of algae was wondering if I need to be concerned here
or not.
<<Hard to say...likely not. But do have a look through our
FAQs/articles re "Cyanobacteria" and "blue-green algae">>
Thank you
for your time.
<<A pleasure to assist>>
Like everybody
else...Love the site! Very very informative.
<<Always good to
hear...thank you>>
Sincerely,
Richard Hunt
<<Regards, Eric
Russell>> Re: Bubble/Cyano Issues 8/22/06
Thanks for the reply.
<<Welcome>>
I am not running a sump, just
the CPR Bak-Pak and the Magnum Filter. Regarding the Vaseline...
<Again, NO to the use of Vaseline... IS a SOLVENT. RMF>
how is that
done? Do I pull out the connections and add it to the connection or to
the hose?
<<No need to pull apart the connections...just smear some
around the "above water" connections to seal them temporarily. Do this
one at a time watching each for a bit to see if the bubbles stop>>
The intake is behind a piece of live rock, so I don't really have any
air coming from there I don't believe.
<<The steady stream of air
bubbles while the lights are on could be nitrogen bubbles from your
rock/substrate being sucked in to the filter intake>>
Again, Thank
you
Richard Hunt
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>
Re:
Bubble/Cyano Issues - 08/22/06
Now that’s interesting. I do
have tiny bubbles all over the red stuff on the rocks that I spoke about
in my original post. Could that be what is getting into the filter?
<<Ah, most assuredly Cyanobacteria then...and yes, the filter intake
could be pulling-in these bubbles>>
If so...how do I get rid of the
bubbles from the live rock?
<<Increased water movement often helps
when battling this blue-green algae. Do have a read here and among the
links in blue for much more information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
>>
Thanks,
Richard
<<Quite welcome, EricR>> SW
canister filtration 12/6/06
I have been reading
over your site and now realize I may have to change my filtration. You
almost always recommend a sump for all salt tanks... I have 2 Eheim
canister filters on a 75 gallon with an aqua c remora pro skimmer. In
the Eheims I have the white filters, blue filter, Chemi-pure and the
ceramic rings. Would this be ok with weekly maintenance? Or will my
water quality eventually become poor due to inadequate filtering? Any
suggestions you have would be of great help.
< With diligent
maintenance you can avoid common problems associated with canisters, but
the main concern is a power outage. These filters can become anaerobic
in a short time if power is lost, and pump some really nasty stuff back
into the tank when the power is restored. If you have enough live rock
you can remove the canisters, albeit one at a time over a few weeks. You
can also keep a canister to place your chemical filtration in as long as
you clean it out often. >
Thanks
< Most welcome and best of luck
- Emerson > Rena Filstar Issue... air leak 1/31/07
Hi Guys-
<Howdy>
I have a 300 gph Rena FilStar canister filter
which has been functioning beautifully for about 6 months. Over the
last few days the water level in the canister has dropped and every 2-3
minutes, there is a sucking sound and a whoosh of aire entrapped in
water is jettisoned out through the out let hose. It creates quit a
horrendous sound.
<Yes... you have an "air leak" somewhere on the
intake side of your plumbing>
Have I lost my seal on the filter?
<Yes>
How is air entering the canister? Whats the remedy, new o
ring, or a new canister filter?
T
Joe Tremper
<Mmm... a
careful examination (possibly with a length of tubing against your ear,
other noise turned off... and/or a squirt bottle with "just water"... to
try and detect the leak... starting from the intake from the tank... to
the canister itself... Perhaps a systematic disassembling, trimming of
"old" flexible tubing, re-fitting to the hard plastic couplers/els...
maybe the addition of a bit of smears of pure Silicone lubricant to seal
all a bit easier... including the top/O-ring... Good hunting! Bob
Fenner> - Broken Fluval? -
I have searched and
cannot find a solution. My Fluval 404 isn't running correctly. It seems
that the return water flow is half of what it normally is. I cleaned the
impeller and am at a loss. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
<Do go through all the tubing and intake screens as well... look for
possible obstructions, otherwise contact Hagen directly.> It is a few
years old. Motor sounds fine.
Thanks in advance
Lisa
<Cheers, J -- > Fluval Emergency
Hi. I think I may
have made a catastrophic mistake this morning. I walked by my 55 Gallon
FOWLR tank this morning and saw my Fluval 304 canister filter was
unplugged. Without thinking, you guessed it, I plugged it in.
Well
it only took about 30 seconds for the rotten egg smell of hydrogen
sulfide to hit me in the face. I was crushed as I didn't think of that
possibility before as well as I realized there was no turning back once
I made that crazy decision to plug it in. I turned the filter back off
and cracked it open and it was very black inside. I just got back from
vacation a few days ago and everything was fine so I don't know how the
filter got unplugged.
I have a few questions. First, I threw
everything away that was in the Fluval (foam pads, activated C bags,
ceramic Biomax, and PolyFilter) and added a fresh 100 g bag of activated
C, a whole pad of Polyfilter, and fresh foam pads. I also started
preparing 14 gallons of water to do a 25% water change when I go
home. Is there anything else I can do. How much C would be reasonable
to run; should I add like 6 100 gram packs to the Fluval or just run
one? And the two questions I hate to ask. Is it almost certain death
to my fish since I actually smelled the gas coming out of the water, and
will the sandbed and 50 lbs of LR in my tank be garbage now or will the
H2S not absorb and contaminate for life?
Thanks for the advice as I
want to save anyone I can.
Ray
<Hello Ray,
The first and
best thing you can do is a large water change obviously, in the range of
50 percent. You didn't mention if this canister filter is the only
source of water circulation in your tank, nor did you mention how long
it had been off. Those are two rather important pieces of information.
Your rock is probably fine, and in all likelihood so is your sand bed,
but again I lack some vital information.
If your fish are still
swimming when you get home, then they'll be fine! For all the talk of
hydrogen sulfide gas, I've never seen it whack a fish myself. That
doesn't mean it hasn't happened, but in my experience I've never
witnessed it.
Run as much carbon in your canister as you wish, there
is no right answer there. If your sand bed is dead, then all the carbon
in the world will not help you, and you'll have to pull it. If you've
had power heads or a return pump circulating the water all the while,
your sand bed is most certainly just fine.
Cheers
Jim>
Fluval fix
Hi
Wondered if you could help.
I have a Fluval
304 about 4 yrs old. It always ran fine until the other day.
I clean
it once a month basically replace the carbon and rinse the foam. I use
it more for chemical filtration as I have a Bio-Wheel and Aquaclear on
the tank as well. I also like it because of the flow it gives me as
well.
Anyway I stripped it down and put it back together as I have
done a hundred times. I put it back under the tank. When I came home at
lunch the following day the water in the tank was down about 1 1/2" (
its a 65g by the way). I thought it was the tank but after some
investigation I discovered it was leaking from the filter. There was a
steady drip of water running down from the blue handles on either side.
I thought it might be because I had filled up the baskets to the top
with some carbon and pre-filter material more than is usually in there
and it was restricting the flow of the water through the filter in some
way. I took out the extra material and returned it to how it was before
but this didn't fix it. I then thought it might be the seal for the
motor housing so I have just run down to the LFS and replaced that but
that isn't working either.
I will try to describe where the water is
coming from.
Where the two parts lock together all the way around
there is a kind of bulge well on the part where the handles are it kinda
flares out and creates a well next to the handle. At the top of these
wells there are small holes and that is where the water comes from. The
canister part of the filter not the motor housing. I hope you understand
and can either help me or let me know who can.
Thanks
PS - I
sent in a question about 3 weeks ago and didn't get an answer. No biggie
I solved that problem now but would really appreciate an answer to this.
< I had a guy at work with a similar problem and he asked me to take a
look at it. I think the problem is with a dried out O ring that seals
the upper and lower pieces together. I never got a chance to try it but
I think if you grease the O ring with a white grease or even try some
petroleum jelly you may have some luck. I know that he had called the
company rep and got no answers and I never talked to him again to see
how it turned out. I think he just bought a new filter from a different
company.-Chuck>
Dean K. Smith Re: Leaking filter, FW
Thanks for the prompt answer.
I replaced the seal with a new one
yesterday and the leak slowed down a little but didn't stop.
So I
called the company today ( I am in Canada by the way) and as soon as I
told them the problem the told me to return the filter for repair. They
seemed to know exactly what it was and weren't concerned that the filter
was no longer under warranty. Seems to me this must be a common problem
with this filter. Anyway they told me to send it to them at my cost they
will return it in a couple of days at there cost. Hopefully it turns out
well and I am glad I am also running another filter on this tank.
Thanks again for the quick response and keep up the great work with the
site I visit everyday.
< When it comes back please write and let me
know what they did. thanks.-Chuck> Re: Leaking filter, FW
Thanks for the prompt answer.
I replaced the seal with a new one
yesterday and the leak slowed down a little but didn't stop.
So I
called the company today ( I am in Canada by the way) and as soon as I
told them the problem the told me to return the filter for repair. They
seemed to know exactly what it was and weren't concerned that the filter
was no longer under warranty. Seems to me this must be a common problem
with this filter. Anyway they told me to send it to them at my cost they
will return it in a couple of days at there cost. Hopefully it turns out
well and I am glad I am also running another filter on this tank.
Thanks again for the quick response and keep up the great work with the
site I visit everyday.
< When it comes back please write and let me
know what they did. thanks.-Chuck> Leaking Fluval Redux
Well I got my filter back today. It all seems to be in order and working
fine.
I checked over the filter before I started it up again and it
seems the only difference is a new type of impeller cover. It seems a
better fit and has a fitting that looks like it prevents the impeller
from sliding out of the well ( I had a problem with that). I wish they
had sent a replacement though because it is very difficult to unclip now
and I can see myself maybe breaking it down the road.
They stated
that they replaced the impeller, the impeller shaft, the impeller cover
and the O-ring and they also tested the unit for 24 hrs at no extra
charge to me.
The impeller was only about 3 months old and the
O-ring was brand new.
Overall I would say I am satisfied but not
impressed as I was a little ticked that the turn around time was 6 days
instead of the 3 that they stated when I called them.
But anyway the
filter is back on the tank and both the fish and I are enjoying it
working properly
Hope this is some help as I visit the site everyday
and would like to give a little back lol
< Thank you very much for
the reply. It has helped me and hopefully it will help others checking
the site.-Chuck> O-ring problem
Hi,
I want to start by
saying I am really glad I found your site today. I learned a lot more
since finding it than I have in the short 6 months since I found out
that I am nuts for this hobby.
On to my question. With my wife out
of work, I am on a very tight budget. I wanted to get a larger tank to
go with my 10 & 20 gallon tanks, and kept an eye out for a "garage sale
special" After looking out, I picked up a 45 gallon tank, stand, filter
& Heater for under $100. The filter is a Chinese no-name brand canister
filter, but definitely works, as I am familiar with the former owner and
his Flowerhorns. The name on it says "Sun Sun", but I can't find any
info on them. Like I said, no name Chinese made. It looks like the
o-ring gave out, and was hoping you might know a DIY resource for
O-rings.<Chris, look in the yellow pages under bushings/bearings. Most
of these places have a huge assortment of O rings. Take the part of the
filter that has the O ring with you> James
Canister filter losing prime
If we lose power and then it comes
back on the Fluval will not start pumping water. However the motor is
running, have to shake the canister to get it to start. Any thoughts on
how to fix this? Thanks
<You have some/an air gap... some gas trapped
in the canister or flexible tubing... that is accumulating in the
motor/impeller when all is turned off... You need to invert, right the
canister a few times to discharge this each time you have the filter
apart... and learn to prime it completely when re-starting it... by
lowering the discharge line... Bob Fenner>
Canister filter emergency
Hi Bob!
<You reached Steven Pro
today. Anthony Calfo and I are helping out while Bob is away.>
I just
discovered that my Eheim 2215 canister filter has not been running,
probably for a week or more (the plug was loose in the socket; it looked
plugged in but wasn't, and the pump normally runs so quiet that it took
a long time to notice. Pretty dumb.) How do I go about cleaning the
gravel so that it can function as a biological filter again? Do I need
to drain the hoses that connect the filter to the tank, since they're
probably filled with yucky water? My 55-gal tank has a CPR BakPak
skimmer with bio-bale, and about 70 pounds of live rock, so it's not
totally without filtration, but of course I want to take care of this
right away. Thanks for your help! -Suzanne.
<Clean and drain
everything in the Eheim. It will probably smell something awful (similar
to rotten eggs) if it has been off for a week. -Steven Pro> Re:
canister filter emergency
Excellent advice... but how exactly do
I go about cleaning the gravel?
<I would put it in a bucket and rinse
repeatedly with hot water while churning with your hands. -Steven Pro>
Filter blockage deaths
Hi Bob,
I went on my honeymoon for 2
weeks.
<Congratulations>
during our absence the filter tube fell
causing it to kink and block. The person we had looking after the fish
came in and found the fish dead (Picasso trigger, 2 clowns, 4 stripe,
emperor angel and blue tang). It had been 6 days since they had last
seen the fish. We had an auto feeder set and all was OK up to then. (We
had introduced the feeder slowly making sure the fish were OK to eat
dried food and that the feeder worked OK over an extended period of
time).
<Oh>
I returned 3 days after the fish had been found and by
then the filter tube had been unkinked. All the chemical measurements
were normal. What would cause the fish to die? Could they have died by
lack of oxygen? A number of small crabs (2cm) and worms that were living
in the live rock were also dead. The anemone also died, however one
large coral has remained alive.
<Many changes could, might have
occurred as a consequence of the "kinking"... low dissolved oxygen for
sure... and with con/subsequent changes in loss of aerobic nitrifying
bacteria... and, and, and...>
This is the first time we have lost any
fish since we started about 6 months ago and we are very upset. How
would the fish have died and would they have suffered.
<Not likely to
have suffered. Aquatic life is "hard-wired" differently than tetrapods
(e.g. birds, mammals).>
Regards,
Michael.
PS. Thanks for your
website. There is much contradictory advice on SW aquariums, but we
usually take your advice.
<Thank you my friend. Don't be discouraged
with these accidental losses. Make provision that it cannot recur and go
on. Bob Fenner> O rings (Tetra repair part)
I have a
Whisper power filter- Model 2B- the O ring leaks water. Can you tell me
were I can get new ones. Thanks, C. Herbst
<I would contact Tetra
directly. They were very good about sending me a few new ceramic shafts
for my pond pump. Their website is http://www.tetra-fish.com/index2.html
-Steven Pro> Problem with Fluval 204 Canister Filter
Hello, and great site by the way.
<Thank you very much. I am sure Bob
appreciates all the compliments he gets.>
I've got a new freshwater
setup. A 100 Gallon Tank about half full for a VERY lucky Red Eared
Slider (Turtle). Everything is working great for this little guy, but
I've had a bit of trouble with the Fluval 204 Canister Filter that I
bought for him today. The filter seems to be constantly developing air
bubbles and is difficult to prime. It is an intermittent problem.
Sometimes the filter will go for hours without a problem, and sometimes
it's only a few minutes. I have the filter mounted level with the tank
because of space restrictions. My basic questions are:
1.Does the
placement of the canister cause difficulty in filtration?
<Yes, it
should be well below the tank water level.>
2. Is it normal for this
type of filter to have this much trouble with air bubbles?
<It is
common for Fluvals to have problems purging the air when the sponge
filters are new. They hold a lot of air and it takes awhile to force it
out. Also, your height differences maybe making the problem worse.>
3. What kind of media would you recommend to keep this ammonia producing
monster from poisoning himself?
<Activated carbon, Zeolite clay, and
the ceramic rings.>
Thanks for your time and effort in putting up
such a comprehensive source of information for those of us that are
"Aquatically Challenged" Eric
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Re: Canister filter question
Thanks for your quick response.
Okay, I understand and will probably take your suggestion. But just to
further my education what would be the harm in allowing that filter to
act as a biological filter as well? Could I add half of the recommended
media? So there would be less surface area. Finally how often do you
clean out a canister filter's media if it is a bio filter? -Pete
<It
is unnecessary to use as a biological filter if you have sufficient
liverock and live sand in your micro reef tank. It will breakdown
certain compounds making it more difficult for your protein skimmer to
remove them, adding unwanted nutrients to your system. The media will
displace more water and will eventually get dirty and cut down on the
flow rate from the canister filter. -Steven Pro> Priming
Canister Filters
I have a Fluval 404 filtration system for my 185
gallon aquarium and can't seem to get it pumping. Motor is running . do
these have to be left on for a while to start (primed)?
<Don't have
to be left running (go and turn off NOW!) w/o water in them... you have
to prime this canister filter... suck on the discharge end over a bucket
to fill the intake line and canister itself... THEN plug it in. Bob
Fenner> Filter Problems (canister, marine)
hey... I
don't know if you guys are familiar with filters... but my filter won't
suck up water anymore.... can you tell me what the problem is... its a
magnum filter... the old ones.. not the new 350... but yeah... it won't
suck up any more water... I checked it many times.. the only thing wrong
with it is the rubber band which is on the cap... I asked a man about it
and he said that the because the band has little breaks on it that it
would let in air.. would air affect the filter's ability to suck the
water... I mean at first it works... but only for a few seconds.. the
water level in the filter starts to lower, then at about halfway emptied
it stops sucking in anymore water... can you help me out... I know it's
not a fish problem but.. any help is fine... thanks... Sokha
<You
should replace your gaskets. -Steven Pro>
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