Canister Filter 1/23/08
I have read many of the questions and your replies in regards to using filter media in canister filters. Some of your responses were to use filter media but with frequent cleanings to prevent nitrate build up. Makes sense. Other responses were not to use filter media at all. And some responses were to eliminate them completely.
<Yes, different people, situations and opinions. Generally the same results for the differing advice.>
I have a 75 gal. fish only, at this time, with a refugium, protein skimmer, a Fluval 404, Magnum 350, approx. 70# of live rock and 80# of live sand. I intend to add additional live rock as money permits.
<OK>
I have two Maroon Clowns, one Cleaner Shrimp, and assortment of Hermits and Snails. At this time I am using blue foam filter media in both filters. My tank has been up for only 4 weeks.
<Careful adding anything with the clowns, especially since they are established first.>
My questions are, should I continue using the filters as they are with frequent cleanings.
<If you want to.>
Or would I be better served by using them for bio filtering only or could I eliminate them and use the refugium, protein skimmer and live rock and sand for my filtering.
<You could do this, it would be my choice.>
Also will the filter media remove any microscopic creatures that might benefit future additions to my tank.
< Some may become trapped or even colonize the media between cleanings, but this will be negligible given the flow through these.>
Thanking you in advance,
Shawn
<Welcome. You really have sufficient live rock to support your livestock. You can continue running the canisters with frequent maintenance, but it is more work and not really necessary. Best wishes, Scott V.>
PS your website is awesome
<Thank you.>

Chemi Pure Question 1/22/08
Hello Wet Web Media crew,
<Hi Danny>
Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer a quick question of mine. I just made the switch in my 75 gallon saltwater FOWLR aquarium from Bio Chem Zorb to Chemi Pure. I always changed the Bio Chem Zorb once a month, but the manufacturer of Chemi Pure suggests it only needs to be replaced every 4-6 months. I'm a bit suspicious of this, and I certainly don't ascribe to their claim that it eliminates the need for future water changes. I still plan to do my 20% water changes every two weeks. What I would like to know is how often you suggest that I replace the bag of Chemi Pure in my canister filter? Would this recommendation be equally applicable for both fish-only tanks and reefs?
<Danny, this hype is all going to depend on fish load and tank/filter maintenance. I use this product and I change the media about every four months. My tank is lightly stocked and during water changes I do vacuum the coral sand. The use of a protein skimmer will also increase the time between Chemi Pure changes.
You also mention "replace the bag of Chemi Pure". In your size tank, two units of Chemi Pure are suggested for optimal water quality.>
Thank you very much!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Danny

Hi! Questions about Eheim media... 1/6/2008
Hi! First off, thanks for all of the VERY helpful information on your site. I've been spending a lot of time researching things before I set up my newest freshwater aquarium, and your site has helped a great deal. Thank you!
<You're welcome.>
I have a new 90-gallon tank in my new home that has been waiting for me to have enough money to work on. I am finally ready to start.
<Very good.>
I've had two 10-gallon and a 29-gallon freshwater tanks before, and I loved them. I had very good success with them. But I was using Bio-wheel over-the-rim filters in them, and now since I am setting up a 90-gallon, I am going to be using my first canister filter. I'm a bit nervous about it :)
<Don't be. Canister filters have improved dramatically over the years, and most are very easy to install and maintain. The two things to always have at hand are a bucket and a towel though, because even though modern filters come with taps and valves to prevent leaking, there's always a little water left behind that can get out. I highly recommend setting up your filter one time with the tubes stuck in a bucket of water. Do this in the kitchen or on the porch. Go through the process of setting up and then taking apart. It's much easier to learn this by practising first, than figuring it all out when the filter is wedged in a cabinet under the aquarium!>
I purchased an Eheim Professional III model 2180 (the one with the heating element). I'm waiting for it to arrive, but I'd like your expertise on what kind of media I should fill it with. I've searched the FAQs and articles, and found that Bob recommends Eheim's Grob and Fein Flocken, but I am getting quite confused...
<Every aquarist has favoured media, but the bottom line is they're all pretty good, and if you decide to buy according to budget and availability, you can't really go wrong. That said, there are a few brands that get the nod in terms of being that little bit better than the rest. But any such differences will be minor, and not the sorts of things that end up with dead fish!>
First, the Eheim products all have non-US-friendly names to them...
<German products, German names... I'd imagine most Germans find words like "Hummer" and "Pop Tart" pretty silly sounding, too! Anyway, the Ehfi- part of the name is some sort of standard prefix, like "Mc" at McDonalds. The second part of the name describes the media. So EhfiSubstrat is Eheim Substrate (='Substrat' im Deutsch) for biological media; EhfiTorf is Eheim Peat (='Torf'); and so on. In the same way McNuggets are McDonalds brand of mechanically-recovered minced chicken carcass shapes bound together with salt and skin.>
second, the Grob and Fein Flocken is a little hard to find... and third, being that this is my first canister filter, I'd like your expertise on what I should fill it with, and just as important, in what order (from top to bottom).
<This is quite easy to figure out. Look at the flow of water first. You put mechanical media (media to remove silt) in the first compartment(s), and biological media (media to remove ammonia) in the later compartment(s). The idea is you want to remove the silt before the silt suffocates the bacteria. Simple as that. Beyond this basic rule, you can pick and choose whatever you want.>
I wouldn't waste your time if I didn't look throughout the FAQs already for a nice breakdown of what media you recommend in it and in what order. The info I found is kind of recommends products here and there, but what I'd find very helpful is if you could recommend something like:
Top layer: Ehfi-ooga (this will trap large particles)
Next layer: Ehfi-booga (this will do x)
Next layer: Ehfi-oogey (this will do y)
Bottom layer: Ehfi-boogey (this will polish)
...etc :)
<I'd go with some sort of filter wool for the first compartment, coarse filter media for the second, and then the last two both biological filter media. Using Eheim products, that'd be something like EhfiSynth, EhfiMech, and then two lots of EhfiSubstrat (or EhfiSubstrat pro). But there's no need to restrict to just Eheim brands. Siporax filter media is at least as good for biological filtration, and filter wool is much the same whoever makes it, and the point to filter wool is that you CHANGE it regularly. If I was keeping clean fish (like tetras) then going with 1 x mechanical media and 3 x biological media would be possible. But if the fish are messy (like cichlids) then 2 x mechanical media and 2 x biological media is more sensible.>
Thanks SO MUCH for your help and your continued service to the fish community. It's very much appreciated!
- Chris
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Hi! Questions about Eheim media...
Thanks so much, Neale! It's definitely a huge help.
<Glad we could help.>
And the term "mechanically-recovered minced chicken carcass shapes bound together with salt and skin" is pure genius :)
<And technically correct, too! Cheers, Neale.>

"Polishing" Water  12/24/07
Dear Crew,
Happy holidays!
<And Happy Holidays to you, too! Scott F. in today!>
I need your help yet again. I want to clarify my water more. I have an Outer Orbit light fixture and the light seems to reflect every particle in the water. I was thinking of adding an additional filter, but not sure which one. I was thinking of either an Eheim where I can pack my own filter media, or an Ocean Clear inline filter made just for polishing water. If I go with the Eheim, I don't know what filter media to use. I would prefer the Eheim as this will only draw 50 watts. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Jeff
<Well, Jeff- I like the Eheim, too. I would probably use a mechanical media, such as "Ehfimech", which is a porous clay material that traps debris. I would also utilize activated carbon for its chemical filtration capabilities. If you pay attention to the replacement and cleaning of these media, you'll get really great results for the long run. Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>

Why Add A Canister Filter With A Wet-Dry? – 11/07/07
Hello guys and thank you for donating to me some of your time.
<<Quite welcome>>
In an e-mail that was sent to me from Eric R., he answered some of my questions regarding my high-nitrates (has recently gone down to 25 from over 160 ppm)
<<Excellent>>
and also gave me a few general tips.
<<I hope they were of use>>
It was suggested by Eric to buy a refugium and also a small canister filter with cut-up Poly-Filter in it to better my setup.
<<Indeed...both are always worthwhile additions in my opinion>>
I understand why I should have a refugium (a medium Aquafuge refugium and live sand is coming in the mail), but I didn't understand why I would need a small canister filter plus I don't want to buy one if it won't be worth my while.
<<The canister filter was suggested merely as a means to provide some additional chemical filtration to your system...if you have some other way of utilizing the Poly-Filter media then by all means do so>>
Maybe I was unclear when describing my setup. Oh, and FYI I've only been in the marine hobby for 3.5 months so I am of little knowledge.
<<You are changing that just by reading/being here>>
I have a 120g FOWLR saltwater tank with 45lbs live rock with a 2" layer of crushed coral.
<<I probably mentioned this before, but this two-inch “crushed coral” bed is probably a large contributor to your Nitrate issue as the course material will trap much uneaten food/detritus and the depth is not sufficient to foster enough of the right kinds of bacteria to function as a proper DSB. It would be best to either reduce the depth to an inch or less...increase the depth to four-inches or more...or change it out for a “sugar-fine” Aragonite material>>
It houses a Snowflake Eel, 4 Damsels, and various Hermit Crabs and snails. For filtration I use a Little Giant water pump that runs 640 gph into a 2' wide by 1' deep by 1' high wet-dry trickle. The water when going through the middle chamber in the wet-dry trickles first goes thru a standard filter pad, then thru De-nitrate and activated Carbon, then thru a piece of felt, then thru more De-nitrate and activated Carbon plus Chemi-pure, then thru another filter plan, and finally trickles over live rock before being pumped into the main tank. I have a Berlin Triple Pass Turbo Hang-On Protein Skimmer that is rated for tanks up to 250g. I now realized I made a poor purchase regarding my skimmer but I'm not about to replace it due to the fact it cost over $200. I also have 3 foot-long air stones lining the back of my tank for extra oxygen for my Snowflake.
<<The skimmer should oxygenate the water well enough...as I suspect the air stones are creating much salt-creep around the top of your tank>>
Considering my current setup, would it be a good idea to add a canister filter? If so, why, and how big?
<<A canister filter would ensure the most efficient/effective use of the Poly-Filter just by the very nature of its design/function (forces water “through” the filter material), and any of the small “external” canister filters would suffice...but...you can also likely employ the Poly-Filter material somewhere in your Wet-Dry filter... Is up to you>>
Thank you for your generous service.
-Phil
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

Filtration on new Marine tank.   8/12/07
Hi Bob, Jay here from the UK.
<Howdy!>
Top website, the best of its kind.
<Thanks>
I am in the process of setting up a 100 gallon FOWLR tank and was hoping that I could ask you a question with regards to doing so?
<Shore>
I have a Juwel Vision 450 with a Fluval FX5 canister filter, and a? Aqua Medics TurboFlotor 1000 Multi SL protein skimmer, I also plan to add a 3+ inch DSB and 100lbs of live rock and a few suitable fish and some invertebrates. My question is that the Juwel came with a built in 2 stage biological filtration system that contains the following:
1. Filter wool pad
2. Active carbon sponge
3. Nitrite removal sponge
4. Ammonia removal sponge
5. Coarse filter sponge
6. Fine filter sponge
The above in built filter system is run via a 1000 litre per hour power head, would you leave this filter system in place or would you remove it to gain more space in the tank and go with the Fluval FX5?
<I would leave all in for now... but likely gravitate to not using chemical filtrants here in time (as the system becomes more established in the next few months) to replacing all but the coarse filter media... sandwiching this about a permanent "to-hypoxic" media like Siporax or Ehfi-Mech or such (one-time purchase)... This to get you what this filter can do practically... and not use up your time for maintenance and flow rate...>
I do not want to add a sump at present as drilling my tank will invalidate my 3 year warranty, I would really appreciate your opinion on this.
<A good idea to ask about... other fellow marine hobbyists there/UK on the various BBs and hobby club groups... what they've done... Myself, I would proceed with having the tank drilled...>
Thanks very much
Jay
PS. I have just received your book in the post, what I have read so far is very good indeed, cant wait to read the rest.
<Oh to have had the focus of J.K. Rowling! Cheers, Bob Fenner>

30 gallon aquarium with Eheim 2234, media for a can. stkg. a small SW...   7/27/07
Hello,
<Hi to you>
I've just started my first saltwater tank, and the tank is "vacant" at the moment as it is cycling. However, I do have a couple of questions:
1. I am planning on adding about 20 to 25 pounds of live rock to provide bio filtration and I also have Eheim 2234 Ecco canister filter. What type of media would you recommend for this type of filter to get the best water filtration possible and how would layer each media. Eheim's webpage is limited in that regards and I would like to use other media (Marineland, Seachem) to achieve the best results?
<I would use the Eheim media (it's superior), the ceramic, coarse, fine and perhaps occasionally place carbon... last in the order of flow path>
Im also planning on buying AquaC Remora protein skimmer and would like to find out what would be the best possible combination of filter media to maintain healthy looking aquarium.
<...? Filter media in the skimmer? There is none>
Im planning on adding 2 percula clownfish, 2 firefish and 2 chromis and a tank cleaning crew.
<... Not the Chromis along with the Clowns here... and really not the Microdesmid... Please, research before acquisition... WWM... re Compatibility, Systems...>
Thanks for your help!!
<Keep reading and you'll likely do fine... if nothing else you'll make less mistakes, understand the ones you do make better. Bob Fenner>

Eheim 2026 media question on FOWLR setup   4/27/07
hi bob!  no I didn't get a response to my original note.  thanks for checking!!
<Ahh! Didn't think I placed such... am responding now, below>
I've been trolling through your FAQ's the last couple of days and have gleaned quite a bit.  Being very new to this hobby, I did want to send a quick email to validate what I think I have learned from the FAQ's and have applied to my setup - no doubt an expensive hobby, so I want to take the cautious approach.  My LFS has been helpful but they do not sell Eheim's so I wanted to get a 2nd opinion.
<Okay>
I have a 75gallon tank with live sand and I will be purchasing 75lbs of live rock by the end of the week.  No fish or inverts yet - basically I've mixed RO H20 and salt mix and got it temp, with a powerhead and Eheim circulating water.  The tank was purchased "lightly" used and came with a "lightly" used Eheim 2026 Pro II series (trying to make due with what I have for now and then slowly upgrade).  I'm a little concerned about getting enough water flow so I added 2 powerheads in opposing sides and directions
of the tank. I have the Eheim media arranged the following way from
bottom
to top (basically right off the box):
1 L Ehfi Mech
1 Eheim Course "blue" Filter Pad
2 L Ehfi Substrat
1 Eheim carbon pad
1 EHFISYNTH Filter Pad
In terms of other equipment, I just purchased a CPR Dual Bak Pak for
protein skimmer and just ordered two Hydor circulation pumps to keep water moving.  My LFS is recommending I purchase a UV sterilizer but from what
I've read in the FAQ's, the jury is still out since they will kill good and bad bacteria.
So finally the questions:
1) Of the above stated media, should I change anything - order or media?
<No>
I'm very concerned about the "canister nitrate factory" notion but it seems with proper maintenance this can be mitigated.  Any tips and suggestions to avoid this scenario?
<Weekly opening, rinsing of all media...>
  From what I've read, and again need this validated, the live rock should adequately perform the biological filtration.  But
can I eventually pull out the Ehfi Mech and the pads and just use carbon as a chemical filtration without any mechanical filtration?
<Mmm, not really... unless you're going to add more mechanical et al. filtration elsewhere>
Given it's a 75 gallon, the livestock number is limited - I'm guessing maybe 4-5 fish of average size.
2) From what I've read, Chem-Pure is awesome stuff and I've ordered
online 1x10oz (2 bags) since I can't find it at my LFS. Where in the media order should I place the Chem-Pur and is it substituting media, i.e., Ehfi Substrat or augmenting what I have?
<The latter... above the Ehfi-Mech... one unit per month... switching out one of two total every month...>
3) From what I've read, you recommend weekly cleaning of the canister -  at least replacing the Ehfisynth pad and checking the media baskets every couple of weeks.  Is that b/c of the Ehfi Mech? Or b/c it's a closed system?
<Mmm, neither... just the necessity of cleaning out a good deal of accumulated "detritus" in such a filter type in SW use>
Just wondering if I can setup the media differently to do less frequent cleaning of the canister (every 2-3 weeks vs. weekly)?
<Try it and see... I'd monitor your nitrates as an indicator of cleaning intervals. Bob Fenner>

Canister Filter Pads in Marine Aquaria - 3/27/07
Hello,
<Hey Mike, JustinN with you today.>
I have a 55 gallon  saltwater aquarium, with a Fluval 304 canister filter hooked up to it I've been reading on the internet that you should
take out the filter pad that is in the filter I just wanted to know if this is true or should I leave it in, If I take it out what would I use to
filter the bigger particles out of the water.
Thanks for your time.
Mike Stevens
<Quite the run-on sentence there, bud! In the future, do try to avoid this... As far as the canister filter goes, the choice on leaving the filter pad in is entirely up to you, but regardless of if you do or not, that canister filter will need to be cleaned fairly religiously to not create an accumulation of nitrates and wastes. Rinse out the media in a bucket of water change water (that which you pull out of the tank, not what you are putting back in, of course!) Hope this helps! -JustinN>

Magnum HOT canister size  3/13/07
Hi,
<Hello there>
New to the hobby, your webpage (which has given me LOTS of information, and inspiration!  Thanks!)
<Welcome!>
I am running a 20g (high) freshwater aquarium.  I will not go into details about my system here, but my question is this....
The Magnum HOT system.  I am using it and find it works satisfactory for 24/7 operations.  I traditionally use the SeaChem matrix carbon in the carbon canister.  And sometimes throw in some PhosBan, or other stuff into a media bag and hang inside the canister.  Does anyone know the actual rating of the media canister?
<Rating? As in? Volume? How often to switch out different types of media?>
Can I put Purigen, or PuraComplete directly into the canister?
<Yes>
If so, do I have to fill it completely?
<No>
  I am assuming I do need to fill it completely, and that may be costly for the higher priced media's compared to just carbon.
Ok, a quick second question.... :)
I have a 2g tank I have been using for fry, and after they passed the "suckemup into the filter" stage, I put a Duetto 50 filter in there.  Now I purchased a 5.5g for another room and would like to put the fry in that.  I was thinking of getting a hang on tank filter for it, but do not know which one would be the "best".  I am looking for variable flow control, and maybe the ability to use other medias than the simple cartridge.
<Mmm... the variable control issue has got me... I like the Hagen and Whisper/Tetra-Second Nature... lines best myself...>
I have a 5g Hex by Marineland and HATE the filter in it.
<I too am not such a fan>
  The BioWheel is great, but the little filter cartridge gets filthy fast, and the carbon is NOT equally distributed in the frame.
<Good point>
Not to mention no place for added media. I did purchase this kit as my first aquarium getting back into the hobby.
<Do write Marineland re these issues, your points... They'll appreciate it>
Thanks for the help!
Carrie
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Filter help... canister... filter media... maint...   3/3/07
I need a little filter help. I have 2 canister filters now. You state they should be cleaned every week. I know I should change the white filter pad weekly. The blue course filter rinse with tank water? Rinse the Chemi-pure weekly with tank or tap water weekly and replace in about 3 months?
<yes> The ceramic media has a lot of brown stuff over it, rinse with tank water and remove all stuff or leave stuff on it?
<Rinse the media with tank water>
Now I want to set up a wet/dry I just got from a friend. Should I use the bio-balls or leave them out?
<Leaving the bio balls in the wet/dry will almost certainly start a nitrate reactor.  I would take them out. and just use the wet dry as a sump.>
I have some live rock, not a ton. I should place a Chemi-pure bag in the bottom tray, and replace every 3 months? In the sump area I can place my skimmer and live rock? Is there any other maintenance on the wet/dry? When? I am new to this and want to get this right. I hope you can help!
<You can use the Chemi-pure in the sump.  I would not place the live rock in the sump.  It will do better in the main display.  A general rule of thumb is one pound per gallon.  I have my skimmer in a sump and would encourage anyone to do the same thing.  Easier access without disturbing your fish.  Also if you have to add things to the tank, a sump is a good thing to have.  I use mine to add makeup water for water changes.  If there are no pads, or bio balls then you will have no maintenance on the wet/dry. Other than making sure that it does not overflow.>  
Thank you.
<You're welcome.  Brandon F.>

Marine Filtration Problems/Options  2/5/07
Hi,
<Hey Mark.>
Thanks for the great site.
<Welcome.>
My question is about filtration.
<Okay.>
I recently  added  a canister filter to my 125 gallon tank in a attempt to up grade my system only to realize that this is not really a good option.
<Correct.>
I was considering removing all the filters and media and placing live rock in the  baskets. But it feels like a waste of electricity to run it at all.
<Well if you have LR in the display….not necessary, I would just keep it empty, use it to run chemical media/carbon when necessary.>
I do not  have a sump and all my equipment is in the main display. Is it enough filtration  to just run a good hang on protein skimmer with live rock and power  heads for water movement and if so how important is the depth of the sand bed, I  currently have 1 inch.
<Well what type of skimmer is it? Most hang on skimmers can not handle such a large aquarium…Look into adding refugia.>
My fish are a juv. blue angel, juv. sailfin tang a juv.  Naso tang and pair of black and white percula clowns. Also, I change  10%  of the water weekly.
Best regards, Mark
<To you as well, Adam J.>

Eheim floss alternatives in a canister 7/14/05
Hi.  I've a new Eheim 2026 Profesionel 2.  The fine white Eheim pads, I'd imagine must be changed frequently but they are expensive.  Can I use regular no-name floss instead?
<I wouldn't>
  Would there be a danger of fibers catching and obstructing the impeller?  
<Possibly... but worse, more likely all will "pack down", channel...>
Someone suggested that if I do use ordinary no-name floss, I should cease using sintered glass as it sheds fines, potentially damaging to the impeller and its chamber.
<No>
  What are your ideas and experiences.  (Not living in Western Europe or the States, I cannot get products online, by the way.  So the Eheim pads remain expensive).
<Am a huge fan of a one-time purchase of Eheim's Grob and Fein Flocken... a polyester media that you can rinse out and re-use... for decades... this is what I use... the Grob (large) ahead of a handful of the Fein. Bob Fenner>

Fluval question -Please help
James or anyone, 
<James, here> 
I read that you use a canister with Chemi Pure. I plan on using a canister filter for chemical filtration in addition to my sump (former wet/dry) and skimmer. I am wondering what is the recommended media to be used for chemical filtration apart from ChemiPure e.g. something to manage phosphates etc. 
<Your choice, either Sea Chem or Kent Marine phosphate removers would be my choice.>
Secondly should I be running the recommended chemical filtration (via my Fluval) during my cycling phase? 
<I wouldn't use it during cycling.>
Finally I was going to use the canister for mechanical filtration but was told this could be a nitrate trap. I would like to change/clean my canister media monthly. 
<Monthly changes will be a nitrate factory. I clean my filter weekly and my nitrates never exceed 5ppm, then again I do 10% water changes weekly. James (Salty Dog)> 

Alkalinity Test kits, Canister filter inserts and Nitrate 5/24/05--Part3 - (And No Shills Necessary!)
Thank you for the quick response to my questions below (and the free "keeping spouse happy with tank" advice)!
<Glad to! As for the spouse... I am glad that others can benefit from my failures! Ha! Actually, my wife is very tolerant.>
Per your advice, the lava rock is removed, and I'm planning on adding the remaining live rock in one batch (after confirming it is cured by keeping it in tub in garage). I'll also buy a better alkalinity test. I've been using Jungle Quick Dip strips, but they have always been "off the chart" in the "ideal" range. I've been questioning their accuracy. Any recommendations on best test? <Always choose an alkalinity test that is a titration type. Titration tests require you to add drops of reagent until a change from one color to another is observed. The value is calculated from the amount or number of drops of reagent that are added. Test kits for alkalinity that use dip strips or compare to a color chart are very unreliable. I am fond of Salifert and Tropic Marin alkalinity kits, but many good ones are available.>
I'm going to go with selling the Fluval, but keeping the Eheim for the great water movement it gives me. I had heard--LFS--that filling the Eheim completely with the Eheim filters would "polish" the water without creating nitrates. Do you agree? Or would I be better just having the Eheim completely empty? (I'm the guy who knows there is no way I will be doing weekly maintenance on the canister--most likely just every month or two.) Thanks again for your help and great site. Greg 
<I disagree with your LFS, but there is no harm in trying. If you observe nitrates after a couple of months, I would either step up the maintenance or remove all media from the canister filter.>
P.S. I'm going to shill for you. I made an Amazon Honors Payment to you guys and was surprised that more people don't do the same. I'm always buying stuff from the LFS when I go in and pick their brains because I feel their time is worth something and they're in business to make money. More so for you guys who are doing this site free of charge to the fish-keeping world. Not everyone is made of money--although this isn't the least expensive hobby I can think of--but I'm still surprised people don't throw a bit more change/bills in your electronic glass jar.
<Thanks for the contribution! It is refreshing and uplifting to cross paths with someone who is willing to voluntarily support something they find value in. Best Regards. AdamC.>

Canister filter inserts and Nitrate 5/16/05
Greetings WWM Denizens! Thank you for all the advice, info and time spent accumulating it! You have gotten me from freshwater to saltwater, which may explain my configuration and question/problem. (I've searched the forums and can't find my particular query.) My problem is nitrates (surprise, surprise), and I wanted to know if my solution would work . <Thanks for the kind words! Glad you have benefited from the info here.>
Tank is converted from freshwater, about 9 months old with salt as follows: 100 gallons, Aqua C Remora Pro, with the larger skimmer, about 50 pounds of live rock--adding more slowly; 40 pounds of lava rock, which I am hoping will slowly become live rock (it has only been in saltwater tank); 3 powerheads knocking water around; my good old Fluval 403 from the previous century; an Eheim 2217; I also have about an inch of crushed coral for cushioning and prettiness. 
<Sounds reasonable, although adding live rock slowly is often a problem since each new piece has to cycle. I strongly suggest setting up a small tank (even a plastic tub) to cycle new rock in before adding to the tank. Also, lava rock can be unpredictable in composition and is a risk for introducing contaminants (especially metals). I would personally lean toward removing this in favor of live rock.>
The problem is nitrates. No matter how careful I am with feeding and how much goop my skimmer picks up, the nitrates will not drop below 15-20. (Ammonia always 0, pH 7.8 to 8.0, treating with 1 Tsp washing soda each 25 gallon water change.) I use RO water from a nearby ice and water store (about $60/year at 25 gallon change every four weeks), which I test for nitrates every now and then, so that's not the source. 
Forgot livestock--one perc, two yellow medium sized tangs, one dwarf coral beauty--that's all! 
<Your stocking is reasonable, but your pH is a bit low. I would urge you to check alkalinity (especially if you are adding washing soda). You nitrates are likely a result of two things... since your ammonia and nitrate are being processed in the highly aerobic canister filters, nitrate is being produced away from the live rock. 
When the nitrate is produced on/in the live rock, it can be further reduced to nitrogen gas in the anaerobic zones in the rock. You probably have enough rock now to completely take over biological filtration. In any case, such a small amount of nitrate is probably not a problem.>
The long term plan/solution is to add a sump/refugium, but until I can figure out how to explain that to my wife, I'm stuck with the canisters. 
<The sump/refugium will have many benefits, but in the mean time, keep those canisters squeaky clean! A good rinsing of the media in a small amount of tank water weekly will help a lot. Also, I have found that many expenditures can be (mostly truthfully ;^)) be rationalized to your spouse by explaining that it will save money in lost livestock.>
From reading the posts, I think I understand you all agree that weekly--yikes!--changes/cleaning of the foam/pads would help with reducing nitrates. Although I spend time every day with my beloved tank, opening those things once a week (or every other week) isn't going to happen. (See previous comment about wife and add "traipsing water across the living room" and you'll understand why.) 
<If you aren't going to maintain them, I would get rid of them or gut the media from them and use them only for water movement. Even when perfectly maintained, they aren't providing you with much benefit and you could sell them for money for more live rock.>
So here's my thought: How about just using no foam, poly filters, or pads in the canisters and only leaving the Eheim pre-packaged materials, plastic pot scrubbers, and other "hard" porous materials that I have in there other than foam? Would that reduce the nitrates without losing all the benefits of the filters? (If so, I would like to do half plastic pot scrubbers on top and half the rock-type stuff that is in there now, if that would work.) Then, would 2-3 month cleanings of the rock-stuff/pot scrubbers be adequate? I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Other than the nitrates, everything in the tank seems to be quite happy (including some very full Xenia and a couple of mushrooms). Thank you again for your assistance. Greg 
<The nitrates are a result of both the accumulated organic matter and the highly aerobic nature of these filters. The media supplied with these (and plastic "pot scrubbers" make great high surface area, aerobic media. I would maintain them properly or gut them completely of all media.>
PS I would like to chime in that Sally Lightfoot crabs, in my opinion, ARE killers. I lost a bunch of damsels and a cardinalfish to one before figuring out what was going on. 
PPS Since this is my first question posted, I have to say again, you guys are great! 
<I couldn't agree more! In my opinion there are no completely safe crabs (including hermits). Best Regards. AdamC.>

Canister Filter Media - 09/29/05
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I have a Fluval 204 canister filter for a marine tank and am wondering what is the best filter media to put in the three baskets.  Also I have a small anemone with one tiny clownfish, would it be alright if I put another clownfish in the tank.
<<Hmm... Would help to know a bit more about your tank.  I don't really care for canister filters as most folks tend to plug them in and "forget about 'em."  But that said... If you have live rock in your system and you're not intending the canister for biological filtration, I would say load it up with carbon which you should give a freshwater rinse weekly and change part/all out an a monthly basis.  An alternative would be to use cut-up Poly-Filter...again giving a weekly freshwater rinse and changing out as required.  As for the clown... You could likely add another (again, I don't have enough info on your system), but be aware they don't always "pair up" just because you put two of them together.>>
From Sam
<<Regards, EricR>>

Eheim For Rowaphos   9/4/06
Dear James
Hope you are well.
<Not bad, thank you.>
A further question or two.
At the moment I run 2 Eheim filters on my 37g reef tank : 1 mechanical and  1 wet and dry.
There would seem to be enough space in the bottom basket of the mechanical filter to add an inch or so of Rowaphos which I would like to use to eliminate phosphate.  Maybe I could mix Rowaphos with the Eheim media, or replace the whole bottom basketful with the Rowaphos.
<I'd do the whole basket.>
Does this sound like a fair idea and/or would it ruin the efficiency of the filter?
<Should be fine.>
If you think I should keep the filters as they are (I know you guys are not great fans of Eheim always,
<I've never had problems with the Eheim line.>
but I am 'afraid' to take them out of action)  are you acquainted with the Deltec MCE600 skimmer which has a space for adding Rowaphos.  Is that a good option perhaps?
<If you are not presently using a skimmer, this would be a very good option.
Not familiar with Deltec, but understand they are a efficient skimmer.>
Many thanks for your time.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
All the best.
Peter Hosier

Canister Filter Media/Maintenance - 09/01/06
Hello Crew:
<<Good Morning>>
Today I purchased an AquaC Remora Skimmer with Maxi-Jet 1200 and the additional pump box online to replace my Prizm.
<<A good move>>
My tank is a 55 Gallon with a 3-inch DSB, 25lbs of Tufa Rock from my previous Cichlid tank and 10 lbs of Live Rock.  I have a canister Filter that has Carbon, BioSponges, and Floss.  The question I have is what components of the canister should I  remove?
<<None...necessarily.  All can be used if rinsed (sponges) or replaced (carbon/floss) on a weekly/bi-weekly basis...though personally, I would replace the sponges/floss with Poly-Filter and rinse weekly until exhausted and then replace>>
The Tank currently houses 2 Perc. Clowns, 1 Six line Wrasse, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Neon Goby, 2 Cleaner Shrimp, 1 Fire Shrimp, various Hermits and Snails and I plan on adding 1 Flame Angel, 1 Watchman Goby, 1 Pistol Shrimp and a Brittle Star or Two.  With more rock should I remove it all together?
<<Only if you won't keep up with the maintenance>>
I also am setting up my quarantine tank so that I can purchase the Flame Angel and was wondering if the floss from the canister filter would cycle the QT?
<<Indeed it will>>
Thank you so much for all your help.
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>

Canister media   12/16/06
Hello-
  First, I want to say "I love your site". All you there are doing a great job.
  Second, I want to ask two questions.  My first question is about canister filters. (I do know you are not fond of them)
<Only for certain applications... I actually use them on my present two systems (Eheim)... but do need careful, regular maintenance in most marine applications>
but I am just starting out and bought a used tank that came with 2 canister filters and Aqua C skimmer. Due to a $$ issue I cannot go with a sump at this
time, but will upgrade to one when able to. Anyway, I'm going to use the canisters for now. Can you tell me what you would recommend to use in them?
<Mmm, yes... and much of this is posted: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm
and the linked files (articles, FAQs) at top>
They have so many different medias, pads, carbon and such.
<Yes... my best "advice" (what I would use) is from the first water (some filters are top down... most flow bottom up)... something like Ehfi-Mech or Siporax (an everlasting aerobic and anaerobic media... you will just gingerly rinse every cycle... Next, a course then fine mesh-fiber media... e.g. Eheim's Ehfi-Grob and Ehfi-Fein... These also just rinsed weekly... then a unit or two (depending on the size of the canisters themselves) of Chemi-Pure or equivalent... can be home-made with Dacron bags... replaced, switched out every month or so...>
I know I should maintain them once a week.
<Yes>
  My second question is about the skimmer. The tubing that goes from the skimmer to the pump is only about 2 inches long. Again, no sump, so this will be in the tank for
now. Can I buy a piece of tubing long enough for the pump to sit on the bottom of the tank behind the rock?
<Yes... your LFS, or a large hardware store...>
It has a model 3 pump.
  I appreciate your response.
<Welcome my friend to our ever-wonder full hobby. Bob Fenner>

Re: canister media  12/17/06
Thank you for your quick response. I do appreciate it.
You don't mention the use of any filters (fine or course), you would not use them?
<Mmm, are mentioned... are the intermediate media by Eheim... made of poly... a one-time purchase...>
Lastly, when you mention rinsing, you mean by the tank water not the tap water?
<This is best, yes>
Again thank you and keep up the good work.
Your site is very educational for all.
<Thank you for seeking clarification here. Bob Fenner>

Re: canister media   12/18/06
I want to apologize for taking your time again.
<Hello Unnamed Questioner - Tim answering your question today!>
I asked the wrong question in regards to the use of filters. (I later realized.) Can you tell me where to purchase the Ehfi-Grob and Ehfi-Fein? I was unable to find these products anywhere. I have only found Ehfi-Synth, Ehfi-Fix and Ehfi-Substrat (pro). I appreciate your response.
<And we appreciate your query. Do a google search for these and any online shops that sell these products are likely to show. Best of luck.>

Re: canister media   12/19/06
I do apologize again, but are these the actual names of the products?
Ehfi-Grob & Ehfi-Fein? I did a google search for these products and the results are "0" items found. Any links that did come up, I used their search feature and again "No products found."
Thank You again.
<Mmm, please see here on Eheim's site re: http://eheim.com/filtermedia.htm
Bob Fenner>