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Eheim classic question
10/6/13 My Eheim Professional II 6/3/13 Re Which hang on filter, now canister to
use? 12/29/11 filtration for 20 gallon hexagon
aquarium 11/22/11 Re: Priming an unprimable pump
10/30/11 Alteration to a canister
filter for increased suction/Water Flow 8/8/11 Best Filter Canister,
sel. 1/21/11 Eheim 2028 losing prime\sucking air
4/23/2009 Re: Eheim 2028 losing prime\sucking air
4/24/2009 Canister Filter Questions: Eheim in a SW
setup. 4/23/2009 Eheim 2026 Priming 11/15/08 Hello gang. I know you are big proponents of Eheim canisters. I cannot get my Eheim 2026 to prime. Do you have any suggestions. <If the priming feature is not working, you can disconnect one of the hoses near the top of the tank. Then use a funnel and pour water down into the unit. Reconnect the hose and you will be good to go.> Thanks for your help. <Welcome, Scott V.> Eheim Canister Flow Rate 8/1/08 Hi WWM Crew, <Krissy> I have been searching for some time for the answer to this question (I have even called Eheim directly). My question is how does Eheim calculate their listed flow rate for canister? <By measuring the flow, I know, had to say it!> I know most brands list their flow rates as what the max flow will be if the canister was empty and ran without media. It seems to me that Eheim has lower flow rates than other brands but still lists them as able to handle larger capacity aquariums. For ex: Marineland c-series 360 is rated at 360 gph and recommended for up to 100 gallon tanks. Eheim pro II 2126 lists a flow rate of 250 gph but is still recommended for 100 gallon aquariums. Is Eheim more accurate at listing the flow rate in a real world situation (i.e. filled with media)? <I personally cannot speak to the method Eheim uses to rate their flow capacity. But, there are two points worth mentioning regarding this. First, Eheim is known for making the best of the best canister filters for good reason, they work great, extremely reliable and user friendly. Second, do not confuse flow rate with filtering capacity. A 250 gph flow is plenty to filter a 100 gallon aquarium. The ratings have many other factors, such as media capacity and effectiveness.> Thanks for the help! Krissy <Welcome, I hope this gives you some insight. I have used many canisters over the years, Eheim products being a fav. Scott V.> Eheim leaks... Not likely 05/23/08 Hi Guys, I am just writing to ask if you can tell me a place to have my Eheim filter repaired. I had a friend go over it but it still seems to leak up near the top. <... very unusual. I sold Eheim for decades... am out in Germany at the Interzoo trade show... just spoke with them/DanielS ayer... they don't leak...> It leaks on the top where the pipes go in. If you have advice about how to repair it or a place to have it repaired I would appreciate your help. The filter says Professional II (it was given to me with no instructions) Thank you , Marshall Murdock <Mmmm, I would turn the unit off, drain the lines. Screw the compression nuts back, remove the green flexible tubing... cut this back/off an inch or so to new... warm up the new ends (in hot water) wiggle/jiggle them on over the intake and return fitting expansions... thread the compression nuts back over... and see if the line/s still leak. They shouldn't. Bob Fenner> Hi! Questions about Eheim media... 1/6/2008 Hi! First off, thanks for all of the VERY helpful information on your site. I've been spending a lot of time researching things before I set up my newest freshwater aquarium, and your site has helped a great deal. Thank you! <You're welcome.> I have a new 90-gallon tank in my new home that has been waiting for me to have enough money to work on. I am finally ready to start. <Very good.> I've had two 10-gallon and a 29-gallon freshwater tanks before, and I loved them. I had very good success with them. But I was using Bio-wheel over-the-rim filters in them, and now since I am setting up a 90-gallon, I am going to be using my first canister filter. I'm a bit nervous about it :) <Don't be. Canister filters have improved dramatically over the years, and most are very easy to install and maintain. The two things to always have at hand are a bucket and a towel though, because even though modern filters come with taps and valves to prevent leaking, there's always a little water left behind that can get out. I highly recommend setting up your filter one time with the tubes stuck in a bucket of water. Do this in the kitchen or on the porch. Go through the process of setting up and then taking apart. It's much easier to learn this by practising first, than figuring it all out when the filter is wedged in a cabinet under the aquarium!> I purchased an Eheim Professional III model 2180 (the one with the heating element). I'm waiting for it to arrive, but I'd like your expertise on what kind of media I should fill it with. I've searched the FAQs and articles, and found that Bob recommends Eheim's Grob and Fein Flocken, but I am getting quite confused... <Every aquarist has favoured media, but the bottom line is they're all pretty good, and if you decide to buy according to budget and availability, you can't really go wrong. That said, there are a few brands that get the nod in terms of being that little bit better than the rest. But any such differences will be minor, and not the sorts of things that end up with dead fish!> First, the Eheim products all have non-US-friendly names to them... <German products, German names... I'd imagine most Germans find words like "Hummer" and "Pop Tart" pretty silly sounding, too! Anyway, the Ehfi- part of the name is some sort of standard prefix, like "Mc" at McDonalds. The second part of the name describes the media. So EhfiSubstrat is Eheim Substrate (='Substrat' im Deutsch) for biological media; EhfiTorf is Eheim Peat (='Torf'); and so on. In the same way McNuggets are McDonalds brand of mechanically-recovered minced chicken carcass shapes bound together with salt and skin.> second, the Grob and Fein Flocken is a little hard to find... and third, being that this is my first canister filter, I'd like your expertise on what I should fill it with, and just as important, in what order (from top to bottom). <This is quite easy to figure out. Look at the flow of water first. You put mechanical media (media to remove silt) in the first compartment(s), and biological media (media to remove ammonia) in the later compartment(s). The idea is you want to remove the silt before the silt suffocates the bacteria. Simple as that. Beyond this basic rule, you can pick and choose whatever you want.> I wouldn't waste your time if I didn't look throughout the FAQs already for a nice breakdown of what media you recommend in it and in what order. The info I found is kind of recommends products here and there, but what I'd find very helpful is if you could recommend something like: Top layer: Ehfi-ooga (this will trap large particles) Next layer: Ehfi-booga (this will do x) Next layer: Ehfi-oogey (this will do y) Bottom layer: Ehfi-boogey (this will polish) ...etc :) <I'd go with some sort of filter wool for the first compartment, coarse filter media for the second, and then the last two both biological filter media. Using Eheim products, that'd be something like EhfiSynth, EhfiMech, and then two lots of EhfiSubstrat (or EhfiSubstrat pro). But there's no need to restrict to just Eheim brands. Siporax filter media is at least as good for biological filtration, and filter wool is much the same whoever makes it, and the point to filter wool is that you CHANGE it regularly. If I was keeping clean fish (like tetras) then going with 1 x mechanical media and 3 x biological media would be possible. But if the fish are messy (like cichlids) then 2 x mechanical media and 2 x biological media is more sensible.> Thanks SO MUCH for your help and your continued service to the fish community. It's very much appreciated! - Chris <Hope this helps, Neale.> Re: Hi! Questions about Eheim media... Thanks so much, Neale! It's definitely a huge help. <Glad we could help.> And the term "mechanically-recovered minced chicken carcass shapes bound together with salt and skin" is pure genius :) <And technically correct, too! Cheers, Neale.> Eheim Filter Instructions 7/30/07 <Hi, Pufferpunk here> I just bought an Eheim filter 2217 and the instructions suck!!! I haven't figured out how to set it up yet - particularly, I can't get the outlet pipe connected to the curved piece - it seems like I'm missing a small connector, but I'm not sure. Do you have any suggestions on where I can get better instructions? Thanks. <Try here: http://www.rexgrigg.com/Eheim%20Classic%20Canister%20instructions.htm I just cut off a small piece of the soft tubing to connect the hard ones. You may use a hose clamp if concerned with them separating or leaking. Make sure you fill the canister to the top with water & leave the top connection open, to let displaced water out, so the top can close. ~PP> Eheim filter, inst. 7/28/07 <Hi there! Paul here> I just bought an Eheim filter 2217 and the instructions suck!!! I haven't figured out how to set it up yet. Particularly, I can't get the outlet pipe connected to the curved piece. It seems like I'm missing a small connector, but I'm not sure. Do you have any suggestions on where I can get better instructions? Thanks. <Let's see if we can't get this fixed... Okay, the Classic series by Eheim features the little pipe coming out of the bottom of the canister and turning 90 degrees upward. If this is the curved piece you speak of, then it should only have a single threaded nut which screws on and off of the pipe. This nut should be screwed as far down onto the tube as it can without forcing it. Then the tubing is pushed down onto the tube so that it is now barely touching the nut that was previously screwed on. Once this is done simply unscrew the nut so that as it backs up the tubing, it screws onto the tubing clamps it tight where the barb is located inside. The reason why I suspect this as the problem is that when I first got my hands on connectors like that, I couldn't get them to work either. If this isn't the solution, then you might have better luck contacting Eheim through their website: http://www.eheim.com/classic.htm Hopefully that helps. Cheers> Re: Looking for a quiet external pump 7/16/07 http://wetwebmedia.com/pumpselmar.htm Dear Bob and Neale, <Howdy!> Thank you so much for your advise. I really like your web site and spend hours reading through and it surely helps me. I have also read your books and your information is very valuable. Thank you for so much of your time. <Welcome> I understand that you said the ocean clear canister are larger pressurized with a great deal of surface area and also I need to have two of those for better in-between service for my 170 gallon tank of freshwater. <Actually "two of those" cartridge elements... just one filter... Understand? Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clncarta.htm> Now I would like to ask you another question, what if I just use two Eheim Canister and would they produce the same crystal clear water for such a large tank. I am thinking of using two Eheim Professional 3 (2028) with an output of 450gph. <Very nice units> Would that be a good way and which is the best choice in your opinion? Two Ocean Clear canister or two Eheim Professional 3 (2028)? <I vastly prefer the Eheims... much easier to service, much longer service intervals, and MUCH less energy cost to operate> Also please advise on the Eheim Pro II 2028 versus Eheim Professional 3 (2028). Which is your favourite for a 170 gallon tank? Your advise is very much appreciated and thanks again. <Well, the latter is better... larger, more flow... but retails for about another hundred dollars... I'd rather have two units, one at either end... so, whichever you can afford. Bob Fenner> Noisy Eheim Pro 2028 7/8/07 Hi I have purchased a 2nd hand [had been used for 6 months] Eheim 2028. <A very good product in my estimation: http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=EH2028K> It works perfectly but seems as if air may be present as it 'rattles' when the taps are fully open. If I partially close the taps the noise stops. Is this normal? <No> If not how can I dispel any remaining air? <Mmm, a few ways, but the most assured is likely to turn the power off, disconnect the discharge line, and have it lowered into a bucket, allow the water to drain/siphon through the unit... perhaps while giving the filter itself a few gentle shakes side-to-side to dislodge any air caught in the pump... If you can get a friend to help, watch the lines/water, try turning the pump motor on/off a couple times during this process...> Thanks Alan <Welcome. Bob Fenner> How to improve on Eheim filter / Red Sea skimmer set-up - 06/27/07 Dear Crew Hope you are all well. <Thank you> I have been reading and enjoying your pages as much as ever, but now I have to ask the 2 questions that have been bothering me since I started in the hobby 18 months ago. <Go ahead> I have a 40 gallon marine tank with a Red Sea Prism skimmer and 2 Eheim 'Professional' filters, 1 wet and dry and 1 mechanical. I have 5 fish, all of which look healthy and get on well : 2 true percula clowns, 2 blue tangs and a dwarf angel fish. The tank has 3 or 4 soft corals and 4 T5 tubes for lighting (2 blue, 2 white). I have quite a large amount of good quality live rock in the tank, although I am unsure of the weight of that. I use R O water only to top-up and for water changes, and test results show nil for ammonia, nitrite, and phosphate, with nitrates at around 0-15. I have no room for a sump, so will have to stick with essentially the same set-up of filters and skimmer. Firstly, I have read that the wet and dry filter is not one of Eheim's best ideas, <Agreed> and that it is best to do away with some or all of the media in the filters, or even to do away with the filters completely, or run them empty of media. Am I misunderstanding anything here? <Not as far as I can discern... this is one of Eheim's not so great engineered products> I like the Eheim filters, partly because I spent a small fortune on them, but also because they provide all of the water movement and circulation in the tank, and they are very quiet. <I am of the same opinion> I have been thinking of putting a PolyFilter in the mechanical filter - is there any point in that? What else can one put into the filters to permanently replace the present media which is so often described as a 'nitrate-factory'? <Mmm, "denitrator" one-time purchase media... Siporax, Ehfi-Mech... other ceramic and sintered glass products...> Secondly, is there to your knowledge a skimmer which is a similar size/shape to the Red sea skimmer but more efficient? <Look to the Aqua-C Remora line...> The tank is in the lounge. I find the Red Sea skimmer easy to maintain, but a little noisy. Are skimmers necessarily noisy? <Mmm, no... this product has a few good ideas, but was not "finished" engineering wise... Try a Remora> I have this dream of getting nitrates down to naught and the tank looking even better that it does at the moment. Hope you can help. Thanks. Peter Hosier <Thank you for sharing... And do make it known what progress you make. Bob Fenner> Eheim floss alternatives in a canister 7/14/05 Hi. I've a new Eheim 2026 Profesionel 2. The fine white Eheim pads, I'd imagine must be changed frequently but they are expensive. Can I use regular no-name floss instead? <I wouldn't> Would there be a danger of fibers catching and obstructing the impeller? <Possibly... but worse, more likely all will "pack down", channel...> Someone suggested that if I do use ordinary no-name floss, I should cease using sintered glass as it sheds fines, potentially damaging to the impeller and its chamber. <No> What are your ideas and experiences. (Not living in Western Europe or the States, I cannot get products online, by the way. So the Eheim pads remain expensive). <Am a huge fan of a one-time purchase of Eheim's Grob and Fein Flocken... a polyester media that you can rinse out and re-use... for decades... this is what I use... the Grob (large) ahead of a handful of the Fein. Bob Fenner> Eheim? I have been given an Eheim external filter and have been using it for some while now, but, I think the impeller needs replacing as it makes some very strange noises and doesn't work properly. <Have you checked it physically? Is it chipped? Perhaps a rock stuck in the volute? If not, there may be just some air trapped in and around the impeller...> The problem I'm having is I don't know which one I have as I can't find the number, I think it's either a 2224 or 2226, both the impellers are different, and I can't seem to find a dealer in my area of the UK who can help, Can you? <I'd take it into a dealer there... contact Eheim through their website and ask where a larger outlet that carries their complete line is located near you. Bob Fenner> Canister media 12/16/06 Hello- First, I want to say "I love your site". All you there are doing a great job. Second, I want to ask two questions. My first question is about canister filters. (I do know you are not fond of them) <Only for certain applications... I actually use them on my present two systems (Eheim)... but do need careful, regular maintenance in most marine applications> but I am just starting out and bought a used tank that came with 2 canister filters and Aqua C skimmer. Due to a $$ issue I cannot go with a sump at this time, but will upgrade to one when able to. Anyway, I'm going to use the canisters for now. Can you tell me what you would recommend to use in them? <Mmm, yes... and much of this is posted: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm and the linked files (articles, FAQs) at top> They have so many different medias, pads, carbon and such. <Yes... my best "advice" (what I would use) is from the first water (some filters are top down... most flow bottom up)... something like Ehfi-Mech or Siporax (an everlasting aerobic and anaerobic media... you will just gingerly rinse every cycle... Next, a course then fine mesh-fiber media... e.g. Eheim's Ehfi-Grob and Ehfi-Fein... These also just rinsed weekly... then a unit or two (depending on the size of the canisters themselves) of Chemi-Pure or equivalent... can be home-made with Dacron bags... replaced, switched out every month or so...> I know I should maintain them once a week. <Yes> My second question is about the skimmer. The tubing that goes from the skimmer to the pump is only about 2 inches long. Again, no sump, so this will be in the tank for now. Can I buy a piece of tubing long enough for the pump to sit on the bottom of the tank behind the rock? <Yes... your LFS, or a large hardware store...> It has a model 3 pump. I appreciate your response. <Welcome my friend to our ever-wonder full hobby. Bob Fenner> Re: canister media 12/17/06 Thank you for your quick response. I do appreciate it. You don't mention the use of any filters (fine or course), you would not use them? <Mmm, are mentioned... are the intermediate media by Eheim... made of poly... a one-time purchase...> Lastly, when you mention rinsing, you mean by the tank water not the tap water? <This is best, yes> Again thank you and keep up the good work. Your site is very educational for all. <Thank you for seeking clarification here. Bob Fenner> Re: canister media 12/18/06 I want to apologize for taking your time again. <Hello Unnamed Questioner - Tim answering your question today!> I asked the wrong question in regards to the use of filters. (I later realized.) Can you tell me where to purchase the Ehfi-Grob and Ehfi-Fein? I was unable to find these products anywhere. I have only found Ehfi-Synth, Ehfi-Fix and Ehfi-Substrat (pro). I appreciate your response. <And we appreciate your query. Do a google search for these and any online shops that sell these products are likely to show. Best of luck.> Re: canister media 12/19/06 I do apologize again, but are these the actual names of the products? Ehfi-Grob & Ehfi-Fein? I did a google search for these products and the results are "0" items found. Any links that did come up, I used their search feature and again "No products found." Thank You again. <Mmm, please see here on Eheim's site re: http://eheim.com/filtermedia.htm Bob Fenner> Re: canister media 12/21/06 I am just writing in regard to the Ehfi-Grob & Ehfi-Fein. After trying to search everywhere, I contacted Eheim. As per Eheim these products were produced many years ago and are now discontinued. <Thank you for this my friend... I was produced many years ago... and have not yet been discontinued... Heeee! They still make similar, the same products, but have changed their names> I also have one more question, do both canisters have to have the same media? <Mmm, no... I find it easier to stack both the same though... We used many Eheim canister filters in our service company's systems (mainly freshwater applications) years back... and did the same with all of them. Bob Fenner> Eheim Canister Filters Hi I recently bought an EHEIM wet&dry 2227 filter and I don't know if its working right ! I filled the baskets with EHFISUBSTRAT PRO ( Eheim says : " All filter baskets must be filled with EHFISUBSTRAT up to the rim " ) and then I put the white sponge filter on top (the one for 2227) and then filled the filter with water by sucking air through the small breathing tube. The suction valve was open and the pressure valve was closed at that time. I start running the filter and after a while water was flowing out slowly and from the other side it was filling with water. The filter makes strange noises as if water is flowing inside and its very annoying. It sounds more like a vacuum cleaner !!! <This is the air and water mixing in and about the pump impeller... a good idea to turn the unit off, let the water rise in the volute (the space around the impeller), then turn it back on... doing this a few times should clear the air out entirely, and make the unit very quiet> I checked everything (hoses tight, if there are any bends to the tube, if the baskets fit well) and it seems that there is not a problem. I use another EHEIM filter (2217) and its completely quiet and noiseless ! Another thing that bothers me is that water comes out constantly and I don't see any changes in the pressure. <Once again, this is due to the cavitation, the air and water mixing together... once you get the air out of the volute, you'll see> From what I know in these filters the outlet pressure varies. There is a wet&dry cycle that constantly goes on and the outlet pressure varies during this cycle. I don't know if I explained well my problem but first of all I want to know why it makes these weird sounds and second if the filter works properly. Thank you in advance for your help. George K. <A very common situation... and one that can/will be solved with the simple protocol mentioned. Bob Fenner> Eheim Wet-Dry Unit... more than cavitation at play Thank you for your reply. <You're welcome> When I turn it off and back on again I get a very loud noise and the motor gets very heated. <Not good... leave unplugged till it cools down... and until we discover the cause of the problem> I left it like that and the filter stopped by itself...maybe for the motor to cool down a little. I took the impeller off and it was very hot ! <Was there anything caught around the impeller spindle? Do check for a minute piece of filter media> When I turn it off the floater goes up all the way then after a while and after the loud noise stops it starts emptying and the pressure is very high till it drops to a constant low water flow. <Ahhh, perhaps there is a good kink in a line (either intake or discharge. Try this: Check both loops to ascertain whether there is a kink that is limiting water flow, and take the discharge line off, place in a bucket (all this with the pump turned off), to determine as well if there isn't either a twist, kink in the line or some other area of internal blockage. If the water does not flow freely (siphoning from the intake line, through the unit, into your bucket via the discharge line), do take the whole unit off the tank, dis-assemble it in a sink or tub, and check for blockage in the unit, lines there> Then the floater goes all the way down and NEVER goes up again ! <I suspect either a "good" air gap in a line, or a blockage inside the unit> Then the wet-dry cycle doesn't come back again as it should be and it keeps working like that! (I changed all the o-rings with new ones-I was told that maybe this was the problem). <Shouldn't have anything to do with the problem... the o-rings either work and the unit doesn't leak... or...> Help ... I am so confused! Thank you, George <Please read through the above. Have you been to Eheim's website? http://www.eheim.com/ Bob Fenner> Eheim I am setting up a 75 gal. saltwater fish only tank. I am considering using a wet-dry filter, either a SeaLife Systems Pro-150 or an Eheim wet-dry filter. Would you give me the pros and cons of each of these filters? <This information is catalogued at wetwebmedia.com In general, the problem is the same...they will both generate nitrates in the long term...The wet/dry will need almost no maintenance but the canister will need to be cleaned and "reloaded" regularly. Ooops...I'm sorry...Do you mean an Eheim wet/dry? Of all of the high quality products that Eheim makes, their wet/dry is a dud. I wouldn't use it at all. Their canister filters are some of the best on the market> Would either be considerably 'better' over the long haul, e.g. ease of maintenance, efficacy, better oxygenation, less noisy, etc.??? <A wet/dry will be fine if you have a heavy bioload and you don't plan on keeping corals. It will be practically no maintenance and as quiet as your return pump is.. Just the sound of the water cascading over the bioballs. You can also submerge the bioballs to decrease the nitrate effect> It seems from your FAQs that many people use the Eheim canisters but not the wet-dries <Most of us don't care for the wet/dries made by Eheim> Are you familiar with Sealife Systems (they seem relatively pricey)? <Sorry...I'm not familiar with that brand. A wet/dry is simply a tub full of tank water. No need to spend a lot of money> My next question involves water filters- I live in a rural area and have a water well, i.e. my water is not municipally provided. Does well water typically present fewer or more problems in regards to quality? <I can't answer this question with generalities. Every rural well is different. No way to tell what's in the water unless you test it. For the above reason, well water is generally more problematic. If you had municipal water, you could get results of water tests from the water company that would tell you exactly what you're up against...> I have not had any testing done but, obviously, I would not have to worry about things like added chlorine. <Municipalities also filter out many other things that we don't want in our tanks...And to be quite honest...municipalities allow some things like nitrates and phosphates that we don't want...> Are there any sorts of elements that I should be particularly concerned about? <Well...this is not really an easy answer...nitrates, phosphates, silica, metals of all kinds, PH...that would be a good start. Are your pipes copper? Many of these tests could be run with simple water test equipment like we use for our fish tanks.> I guess there is always the (remote?) possibility of ground water contamination. <I certainly hope that isn't the case!!> I am considering purchasing a reverse osmosis filter from Home Depot for about $200. I would like your thoughts on all of this in light of the fact that I will have a fish only tank but would really like to provide a good quality of water. <Dude. skip the RO. GO DI. RO leaves way too much waste water...An email that I responded to the other day stated that their RO filter took 10 gallons to produce one gallon of pure water!! As a comparison, DI has no waste water...Go DI> By the way, I would like a substrate to go on the bottom of my tank that is black in color. Is there anything available (that would also be pretty easy to keep clean with routine vacuuming)? <Keep the bed really thin like 1/2 inch or less and stay away from the volcanic stuff. The larger the grain the easier it will catch and hold detritus...but it will also be easier to vacuum> THANKS! (ya'll do a great job and provide a great service) <You're welcome! Come on back now...Ya hear! David Dowless> Eheim Canister filter Hi WWMCrew, After reading through the faq's, I'm considering the purchase of a Eheim 2215 canister filter for chemical filtration (using Chemi-pure and poly-filters as media). I'm a little confused though. I have live rock for biological filtration, so I don't need the Eheim biological media. What else do I put in the filter to pack it? <Mechanical media like Grob and Fein Flocken... their Bio-Mech... in addition to the chemical media you list> Doesn't the filter need to be fully packed? <Mmm, "fully-packed"? The canister does not "need" to be completely filled, or have any given arrangement of types of media inserted in it> I can't just throw in a bag of Chemi-pure and a poly-filter and call it good can I? <Oh, yes... but best to place between (sandwich) two pieces of mechanical media (to keep most of the gunk off of the chemical media)> It I use poly-filters should I cut them into round disks to fit the Eheim? <Can do, or just fold and fit> Also, Eheim makes an activated carbon disk. Their media is round and fills the entire diameter of the filter (7.3 inches), a bag of pure-pure isn't big enough to cover the entire diameter of the filter. To me it seems like the Eheim media would be more efficient because there would be less pass through. <In actual practice, no big difference... for many years we (the service co.) would place two units of Chemipure, replace one intermittently> It doesn't seem like pure-pure in this situation would be much better than just placing it in a sump (the water is going to pass around the bag either way). <Better in the canister... with the sandwiching described above> My understanding of the Eheim 2200 series (aka classic series) is that there are no media baskets. There is one large chamber that you pack with media. <Correct> If my goal is to add pure-pure, would I be better off purchasing a filter with media baskets like a Fluval or Eheim Ecco? <My choice is the canister, the Ecco, and Fluval in that order> Thanks for your time and patience, Jeremy <Welcome. Bob Fenner> Eheim 2028 filter Hi there, <Hello> I currently have a Fluval 404 filter and am thinking of changing it to an Eheim Pro II 2028 model. <A wise choice> My aquarium size is 6 foot x2 foot x 1.5 foot. Would it be a better move to change the filter or is the Fluval one able to handle my tank size. <Don't know what you're intending to keep... you may need more or something different entirely than either of these canister filters, but of the choice between the two, I'd go with the Eheim (I have two of these models. More flow, quieter, longer-lasting products.> If you could reply back to me, then that would be most appreciated. Thanks! Janine Kennedy <Bob Fenner> Eheim and skimmer selections I currently have a 55 gallon freshwater tank which I was going to convert to a FOWLR in a couple of months. <An exciting change> I want to buy a Eheim canister filter and use it for freshwater and then I'll use it when I convert to saltwater. I was deciding between the Eheim professional 2224 and the professional II 2026. The 2224 is rated for 185 gph and aquariums up to 66 gallons. The professional II is rated for 250 gph and for aquariums up to 92 gallon, plus it has the self priming button (which I don't know how hard it is to prime a regular canister). <I have used these fine filters (earlier models to the present) for decades... and can attest to the great value in the self-priming pump feature... you do want this> I can buy the 2224 for 65 dollars cheaper than the 2026, so its hard to decide which one I want to buy. I'm going to have a SeaClone skimmer rated for 150 gallons, at least 30 lbs of LR and about 50 pounds of aragonite/live sand when I do my saltwater. What do you think would be a better buy considering the price??? thanks Joe <I would definitely go with the larger unit in the Eheim, and do investigate skimmer choices before investing... there are much more suitable makes/models. We have MANY archived FAQs re skimmer selection on www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Canister Filters, a small island in the TEP Good morning Bob!! <Not quite awake yet...> I have 2 questions for you today!! First, I was wondering if you could suggest a good, QUIET, filter for my 40 gallon reef tank. Currently, I am running a Supreme Aqua King. Very noisy. <Wow, didn't know that good old Eugene Danner's products were still about. Real water movement... but yes, noisy> It's rated at 350 gph. I was thinking about a canister type, but thought you could advise me. I think I would like to keep at least 350 gph, or better. <More motion the better... and yes to over-rating... as they slow down when dirty...> I have been told that some magnetic drive filters claim to pump that much, but that the reality is much less when put under an actual load. <Yes... some much worse than others... Do invest in a good, actually the best make, Eheim here... you will be very happy with the engineering... whisper quiet, very dependable, low energy consumption/waste heat production... will last and last... and their "flocken" and Ehfi-mech filter media (one time purchase) as well. Link on the www.WetWebMedia.com Links Pages> Second, I an considering adding 3 fish to my tank. I already have 5 fish in there now, a Eiblii Angel, 2 false Percula clowns, a six line wrasse, and a lyre tail blenny. I was thinking of adding 3 Fiji Jewel Lyretail Anthias. Do you think that this might be too much for my system?? <Umm, this is the forty gallon right? It's already too fish-crowded...> I do a weekly 5 gallon water change, have a protein skimmer, and a UV sterilizer. Also, there are a few assorted mushrooms and corals in there. Thank you for your time, Bob!!! Pat Marren <Any chance of adding a larger system along with the new filtration? You need it... to keep up with your growing marine interest. Bob Fenner> Canister filters <Lorenzo Gonzalez here, pretending to be Bob Fenner, who's in Asia at the moment> I first have to thank you guys for all of the great and up-to-date info you provide, as we all know that in this hobby the current methods are always changing. I have decided to go with a protein skimmer and live rock set up for my 72 gallon fish only set up, along with a sizable homemade sump with more live rock and Caulerpa. <Sounds great so far.> My question regards carbon. I have an old Eheim 2213 (do you remember the output on these?) that I plan on using with Eheim media and one Chemi-pure run for just one week a month. Does that sound okay? <Yes, it sounds like a decent idea.> Can I just use an Aquaclear hanging in my sump with just the carbon? <Sure. I do that.> Also, would Ehfisynth filter wadding be a good addition, along with Grob and Ehfimech, or would this add to nitrate build-up? Does the one week a month sound good on the carbon? <If you think you'll have some rather messy fish, the additional bio-mech might not hurt. And a little nitrate in a FOWLR tank isn't the end of the world, as long as it doesn't spike. As for carbon, I just run it all the time, though that's really not necessary in most balanced setups. But my water is ALWAYS crystal clear, and springtime-fresh smelling! The thing with an Eheim bio-mech setup, in my experience, is to be careful to NEVER rinse out all the media at any one sitting. Keep some of the media 'seeded' to re-start the filter after your regular maintenance.> Thanks ahead of time... John <No problem. -Lorenzo> Film on surface Hello, <Hey there> I have cycled my 80 gal tank for three months now and achieved no ammonia or nitrites, etc. <None perhaps detected... they were expediently converted, absorbed...> I added 6 Damsels last week and thus began feeding. I now notice a layer of what appears to be oil/film on the surface of the water. <Ah, good observation!> It also contains some debris, maybe from the fish/food... I have a Tunze protein skimmer and an Eheim canister filter. Is my skimmer working properly? <Likely yes. A very good unit, manufacturer.> Or do I need to get an Eheim surface skimmer? <Ah! Excellent choice.> What is this film & why are the debris not being sucked up by the equipment? <Products, by-products of chemical/physical activity in your (and all) system, and resultant from feedings, etc.... No real problem if kept to a minimum... with "scooping" water from the top (like with a pitcher), or skimming with a clean, unscented paper towel... or best with the proposed Eheim addition> I have been feeding some jarred zooplankton, could that be causing trouble? <To some degree, yes... likely a source of the oil you're so keenly espying. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> -Sarka Set up questions Hello Robert, I have emailed you before and YES I am still in the setup process ;) I have been using your forums and for the most part I am very satisfied. <Hopefully worth the cost, time> I still want to run my setup by you just to be safe. I am setting up a marine aquarium with live sand and live rock. At first there will be no coral but I may consider it depending on how successful I am. The equipment that I have purchased is as follows: 1) 55 Gal rectangular tank made by Top Fin (Manufactured by Perfecto??) <Hmm, contact them: http://www.perfectomfg.com/, think this is a Hagen brand> 2) Ehiem 2026 Pro II Filter Media: (1) Ehfi Mech (2) Ehfi Substrat (1) Pad and Pillow set (1) 3 Pak carbon pads 3)Bak-Pak 2 protein Skimmer 4)Maxi-Jet Powerhead 1200 5) Looking into JBJ lighting. 4 (55w)=220W Two daylight and two blue. <Keep looking... these units have/had troubles...> Here are my questions: a) Which media should I use with the canister filter for my type of system? Everything it came with or just the carbon pad? Eheim's directions are not clear on this. <Likely to discount confusion... I would use all those listed... the Ehfimech on the bottom, the carbon above it between layers of "Fein"... replace/renew the carbon about once a month> b) I bought the Bak Pak2 and not the Bak Pak 2R? The Bak Pak2 comes with BioBale and is not intended for a reef system. Will the Bio Bale in the Bak Pak2 be beneficial or harmful for my type of system? <Beneficial for a few months... then I'd pull it. We can talk about this later when the information is more relevant> c) Is RO deionized water necessary? Can I just use my tap water? <Likely your tap is fine. Do you drink it? No worries. We use tap with our systems> d) Is there any additional equipment that I should consider purchasing? <At this point? Test kits? Cleaning gear? I'd just "jump in" at this juncture. Bob Fenner> Thanks again -RK Filters Thank you in advance again. I have Fluval 304 that is definitely dying I can replace from the store it was purchased at for the same or credit. My question is should I go with the same and I was thinking of getting a 104 for dedicated bio filtration or one of the Eheim's that are hard to find in my area unless I mail order it. Do not know much about them and can they be used the way the Fluval are with the carbon and so on. It is for a 50 gal pent with two tangs and two dwarf angels, two 402 power heads, Prizm skimmer and 50 or so pounds of rock. The Eheim is a vastly superior product of about the same application. It can be packed with their/others media... I would mail-order this instead of the replacement Fluval. My further input on canister filters is posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm Bob Fenner> Eheim for a reef tank? Hi, Welcome back and hope you don't mind two questions in one day! We corresponded a while back when I was gathering up gear for my first reef and I decided on an Eheim in addition to LR, and CPR skimmer in my sump-less 46 gallon. It provides great circulation, but as I'm learning more, I'm getting confused since many people seem to advise against canister filters on the grounds that they could filter out helpful tiny critters. <A valid concern... depending on size, flow rate, what the canister is packed with... for how large, system's occupants...> I could always remove some of the pads and just use the beads and substrate. <Ah yes> A side question is whether to turn off filters in a small tank like mine while feeding. If I were to run the Eheim intermittently is there a risk of poisoning the system with results of anaerobic metabolism/ how long does that take? Double thanks!! <Good questions. A timer to cycle off mechanical filters during feeding is often a good idea (don't rely on your, my memory... where was I? Oh... takes about an hour or two for most canister situations to begin to have/cause trouble. Hence the advice to lower water level in them (replacing with air) during transit, long shut down periods. Bob Fenner> Skimmer for surface of water Hi Bob can you send me the web site again for the company that supplies the type of skimmers that clean the surface of your water. <This is on Eheim's site. You can find it on the WetWebMedia.com Links Pages if not via your search engines. Bob Fenner> Thanks Filtration questions Thank you for the quick response to my question. <Very welcome, my friend.> I asked about replacing my current filter with a magnum 350. This is for my 29 gallon FOWLR (10 lbs live rock, 25 lbs base rock, plan on getting more live rock in the future). After your suggestion I have done some research into Eheim filters and now am considering purchasing one of those. <they are well made and long lived. I just wish they had stronger flow> The two I am between are the 2213 with a 116 gph flow and it says it is good for between a 30-70 gallon aquarium, and the 2215 with a 164 gph flow rate and it states is good for up to a 93 gallon aquarium. Which one would you use and would these products be better for my system than the magnum? <I'd choose the bigger Eheim, for sure. Compared to the Magnum, they serve different purposes. I find the Eheim better for biological filtration and lower maintenance. I like the Magnum better for quick filtration and chemical media. Given to choose though, I'd still take the Eheim. Kindly, Anthony> One last quick question about filtration Sorry to bother you again but I have one last question. I emailed you concerning the Eheim filter for my 29 gallon. You mentioned that you wished the Eheim filters had stronger flow. I was planning on getting a 2215, but now I think I might get a 2217, with the 265 gph flow compared to the 164 gph for the 2215. Would this would be better? <Bigger is almost always better.> Thanks a lot. You guys are awesome! <This part is in general and does not specifically apply to just you. I just wanted to add it for those who read the daily FAQ page. If you have a follow up question, it is best to "Reply" so that we can see the original correspondence, too. We receive and answer a ton of email and cannot keep everyone straight. -Steven Pro> Choose My Eheim Hi Bob. <<Bob's not here, Man. JasonC is, filling in while he's away diving.>> Just a question about Eheim, 2228 or 2229 wet dry, which is better? <<Hmm, I think Bob is more partial to the non-wet/dry Eheim's so I'd say he'd pick the 2228 [non wet/dry]>> Does the 2228 outweigh the 2229 wet dry since its flow rate is 750 liters per hour compared to the 550 liters the 2229 does? <<perhaps also a better design.>> I'm confused with which one to buy. Thanks Rob. <<If you must use a canister filter, then Eheim is the one. If the 2228/9 are in your price range, then buy the 2228. Cheers, J -- >> Nitrate/Eheim Questions Hi, hope you're all well...I'd like to clarify something I'm unclear on even after pouring over the FAQ's on nitrates/denitrification. I recently pulled the Media Ehfisubstrat &Ehfimech) from the Eheim canister in my 46 reef. the reason would be too tedious to go into; it started with comments from Eric B. on another BB re: a xenia crash and many Q&A's with you guys). <I do remember vaguely.> I don't know if it's causal or coincidental, but it seems like my nitrates are higher since then (10-20 with crude dipstick tests-I'm about to order a Salifert kit). Do these two media support enough anaerobic bacteria to help with denitrification, <No, would be strictly aerobic bacteria in a canister filter.><<Mmm, depends on media... flow rate... RMF>> and if so, would one or the other of them be better? The directions are unclear on the function of the mech-they say something about ensuring an even flow of h2o thru the filter. My other parameters are all right on and the nitrates used to be zero also. The tank is running for six months with a low fish load <It probably just took this long to accumulate the nitrates.> two cardinals and two Banggais; also 4LPS and several softies, 2 shrimp, assorted hermits and snails. All seem fine except the bubble isn't inflated as often/fully as it used to be and is a dirty brown color instead of pure white (I feed it shrimp regularly). <The change in color is probably a good thing. Poor white indicates a lack of symbiotic algae/zooxanthellae. Many LPS pan and expand a lot when under lit. Many folks confuse this over inflated tissue with growth. The feeding probably sustained it until its zooxanthellae could recover.> I have a borderline substrate: a scant 3" in some places and 3 1/2 in others--hard to tell because a huge proportion of the floor is covered with 70# LR. Am I right to assume that adding depth to the small part of the floor that's accessible would only help a little? <Yes, of minor help. Better to have a uniform depth of 4-6".> I'm doing 10% h20 changes about 2-3x/month since the nitrates rose; was a little lax till then, I confess. <Again, probably why you are now beginning to seen increases in nitrates.> I have no sump and no room/desire for one since I have no built-in overflow. There is one large (5-6") clump of Halimeda which I could trim less; it would fill the tank if I let it! <A overall good indicator of proper calcium and alkalinity levels. In this case, also a sign of higher nutrients.> I'm feed frozen Mysis once/day, pretty moderately, I think. I'd appreciate your ideas on whether to replace the Eheim media, and whether to stick with the original set-up, i.e. one basket each of the mech and the substrate, use Siporax instead, just substrate, etc? <I would go with things as they are now. Increase the sand if possible, make sure you are getting good skimmate, and things should come back into line.> Thanks for all your help; I'd never have gotten into this hobby/survived without it! <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Eheim 2213 can I use an Eheim 2213 to filter a marine tank. I own one and it is the ultimate fresh water filter, I would think it would be just as good at filtering saltwater, I am converting my 55 gallon and I have in tank canister and Eheim canister. there is more than enough water turnover, or is my Eheim useless. <not useless at all... a very fine filter that can indeed be used as your primary in a marine system...but not the only filter. Some live rock and/or a secondary mechanical filter will be necessary and give you great peace of mind with your investment in the magically beautiful marine animals. My very strong advice is to add as much live rock as you can afford. It is so efficient as a source of filtration that in some cases it can actually outperform and replace your Eheim. Still keep the Eheim for carbon and gross filtration> thanks Sam <best regards, Anthony> Eheim Maintenance Hi, Regarding the Eheim Pro II filter model 2028. Many of the marine equipment vendor sites claim that you only have to clean this filter every 3 to 4 months. <Mmm, this can be so... I have two of these units on freshwater systems... and rarely open them> I was under the impression reading your site and others that the filter pads for mechanical filtration should be cleaned much more frequently (perhaps weekly). Is the Eheim really an exception to this advice?? <Not really an exception. Depending on the "job" you intend, have these canister filters set up to do... your particular needs/arrangements of feeding, foods, other filtration... they may only need to be cleaned very intermittently. The best practical advice is to try them and open them up, see if matter is accumulating on the media (on mine it does not much at all)> Would you recommend 2 Eheims, one for mechanical filtration and one for biological filtration( perhaps a wet/ dry model) in a 100 gallon discus tank? <I do recommend two... but would set them up the same (per the excellent media provided and) their packing instructions> My thinking is that the mechanical filter can be cleaned more frequently, and the filter used for bio filtration can be cleaned less frequently as per your sites suggestions. <As stated, I believe you will find as I have that these are so well designed and made that there is very little accumulation of matter on the mechanical media. I would work into a schedule in concert with your regular water changes, of opening one every other week for a while (to access how "dirty" the first media is) and the following interval the other one. Bob Fenner, who really likes these units> Thanks, Bill |
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