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FAQs on Marine Filtration
Brands/Manufacturers
Related Articles: Marine
Filtration, Marine
Aquarium Filtration, by Adam Cesnales,
Central Filtration Systems,
Related FAQs: Marine
Filtration 1, Marine
Filtration 2, Marine
Filtration 3, Marine Filtration 4, Marine
Filtration 5, Marine Filtration 6, Marine
Filtration 7, Marine Filtration 8,
Marine Filtration 9,
Marine Filtration 10,
Marine Filtration 11,
Marine Filtration 12, & FAQs on Marine
Filtration: Designs,
Installation, Maintenance,
Troubleshooting/Repair,
DIY,
& By Type of System:
FO
System Filtration,
FOWLR
Set-Ups,
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Reef
Filtration, Small Tank Setups,
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& By Aspect and Gear:
Biol.:
Biological
Filtration,
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Algal Filtration,
Mech.:
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To
Skim or Not to Skim, Best Skimmer
FAQs,
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Control and Export, Chemical Filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter,
Chemipure, Purigen),
Carbon,
Mud/Algal
Filtration ,
Phony: Magnetic Field
Filtration,
& Troubles:
Bubbles,
Noise,
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Built ins... by SeaClear, Tenecor, Advanced Aqua Tank,
DAS...? Nah, too puny and difficult to work on/with. Better to abandon
such and treat as dead space, area to drill through-puts and remote your
filtration elsewhere.
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Freedom Filter
Has anyone heard anything good or bad about the Freedom Filter filtration
system by Freedom Aquarium Products LLC? There website is
http://www.freedomaquarium.com. Looks like a "hang on the back" all in
one filtration/protein
skimmer/mechanical/chemical system. Cost is around $300.00..
<Haven't seen... neat concept... a winner if it works. You might try the larger
BB's like Reefs.org... to see if others have direct experience. Bob Fenner>
DAS aquarium modification and skimmer question???? 9/22/05
I have a very unique problem. I have a 100 gallon glass DAS room divider
designed tank. It has the (sort of) sump in the end of the tank masked by a
black acrylic overflow wall. Behind this wall are six separate partitions.
<Am familiar>
I am trying to figure out the best way to set up for a reef tank. One of the
partitioned compartments is supposed to be utilized as the skimmer wherein an
air stone is attached to the base of a long plastic stick which protrudes into a
receptacle cup.
<These units are feeble. Let's "cut to the proverbial chase" here... and suggest
you retrofit either a sump (best) to situate your skimmer (and more) in, or use
a hang on model...>
The problem is the pump returns for the biological filters are sucking off the
bubbles to the air stone and causing air regurge with large quantities of
bubbles pumped into the tank as well as causing serious hindrance to the
skimming action of the in-house skimmer, compounded by a loud noise made by the
pumps.
<Poor design>
I was hoping to find an effective skimmer design that could be placed in the
overflow/pseudo sump, that would not be affected by biological filter pumps,
the height or buoyancy of the surrounding water, and did not have a footprint
larger than preferably 5" x 8" and not any taller than 23 inches, alternatively
I could knock out another partition and make a foot print of 5" x 13" with the
same height dimension. My only other alternative would be to locate a skimmer
that could set underneath my tank in the hidden cabinet that did not exceed 17"
x 11" and no higher than 21" maybe 22". The 17" x 11" x 22"h is the under
cabinet measurement that still leaves room for the electrical lighting systems
electrical cords.
<Yes... signs of thought here...>
I do not know if a sump is possible for this size tank. I have not been able
to understand or locate the availability for a better skimming design in my
situation that is even on the market. I have read about the sumpless Terminator
but it seems to large. My cabinet and tank is beautiful and I really do not
want the clash of a hang skimmer or in view skimmer. I have looked at the
Remora hang on skimmers to see if perhaps it could hang on the black acrylic
overflow wall that hides the pumps, but the location of the upside down V-shape
of the tank siphon in that design requires too much head room for my tank lids
to close over it and I do not know whether such a design can handle the volume
of water it would be surrounded by and still operate properly.
<Could>
I would greatly appreciate your suggestions. This has been a very long and
involved investigation without much fruit. Most skimmers I have seen are
hang-ons or in-sumps. If in-tank skimmers exist, do you think I can hide such a
skimmer in a pseudo sump in this DAS design and how effective is such an
"in-tank" sump?
<Mmm, no... there are times I've seen (expensive) Tunze skimmers retrofitted
here, but...>
Thank you for your help.
Greg C.
<I'd move the sump... somewhere else... around the corner, through the floor...
Maybe try making a skimmer DIY... Bob Fenner>
Re: DAS aquarium modification and skimmer question???? 9/23/05
Bob:
<Greg>
Thank you for your swift response. Yet, I need more clarification.
When you said, "Yes... signs of thought here", do you mean that a skimmer
could fit in the under cabinet without the necessity of a sump in that
location, i.e., sumpless skimmer, and where is my starting point for a DIY
skimmer?
<Unfortunately, not easily. Sorry for the lack of clarity. What I meant to
signify is that you'd been clearly thinking, considering your options>
Also, what do you think about using less pump power to stop the
bubble infiltration, (e.g. I will go back to the DAS OEM pumps, and add a
Tunze stream in the tank)?
<Still are dismal filtering mechanisms...>
This tank actually used to work and look nice with live rock and an
anemone with some fish with pink coralline everywhere. Thereafter, I stored
it after moving offices, lost some parts, forgot the system and now I want
to go coral. By the way, enjoyed the book. They actually had it at Borders
and in stock, great pictures but I don't see in it where you tell me how to
build my DIY skimmer, but you do emphasize its importance.
<Mmm, check Ozreef.org re some spiffy DIY plans>
Maybe it would
be less pain to buy a new tank with a cabinet large enough to hide my sump
underneath?
<Ah, yes... likely the best solution period here. Bob Fenner>
Greg C.
Question for Bob F -- SeaClear
Hi Bob.
<Hey Trey>
First, I've got say what a fantastic resource this web site is....Thank you
all!!!
<Welcome>
My question is about SeaClear System II aquariums. I read a post where you
called them "bunk" and I was wondering what you didn't like about
them?
<Two items: the inadequacy of the filter components and the difficulty of
working on them (for other readers, these systems have integrated... part of the
back of the tank itself...compartments for filter media, pump, skimmer...>
What
do you think is a good alternative to the self contained system? I know
wet/dry filters cause a lot of nitrates and I was going to try and balance
that out with 4 inches of live sand and Cell pore media.
<Sump, refugium, skimmer set-ups. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
re filtration...>
I'm just getting back in the hobby after ten years and thought they looked
like a pretty cool design. All self contained with a spot for a protein
skimmer and a heater. No drilling, no external plumbing, etc.
<... yes, except they "don't work" worth a darn, and are a pain to
get into, work on...>
I'm planning a fish only, 50 gallon, with 4 inches of live sand to help withthe nitrates. I'd like to keep all tank raised fish with little or no rock
collected from natural sources. I'm thinking about False Percula Clownfish,
Orchid Dottyback and a Neon Goby and few other tank raised fish with a clean
up crew down the road. The whole idea is to have a complete marine tank
that's not collected from nature.
Any thoughts you may have on the SeaClear System II ( or alternatives ) and
my choice of a tank raised fish with man made rocks would be great?
Thanks!!!
Trey
<Read, keep good notes on going through "Marine Set-Up" section
above. Bob Fenner>
Built-In Filters
I have read that you like Tenecor's Simplicity Plus, and Advance Aqua's
Uniquarium, but I haven't really seen any discussion about
advantages/disadvantages to either one. I am more curious about your
comparisons of the built-in filtration in each. It seems that the Tenecor would
be the better choice. Thoughts? Tim McLaren
<Well, Tim- both are well made, and come from reputable sources. My only real
criticism of these systems is that they do not allow a lot of flexibility, as
far as the installation of protein skimmers is concerned. You may be able to
install a HOT skimmer, like the Aqua C. Remora, or maybe a Tunze unit, if you
can figure out the mounting. I'd remove the plastic filtration media, if it were
me. I'd use the back compartment as a "sump" of some sort, and place
carbon and/or PolyFilter pads in there. The only other disadvantage to these
units, IMO is that they tend to make the inside of the tank a bit more
"narrow", which may or may not be aesthetically displeasing to you (I
don't like tall narrow tanks, myself...Other than that, either one seems to be
as good as the other. Regards, Scott F>
Tim
Tank with built in filtration in rear
Hello again Bob...
You know those aquariums where the back "bows" out to hide filtration
in the
rear of the tank?
<Yes>
Kinda like the Tenecor Berlin System tanks
http://www.tenecor.com/aquar/images/berlin.jpg ? Well, I think you're
supposed to put a lot of bio-balls in the back area, but since I'm going to
have enough biological filtration with the LR and LS, I want to do something
creative with it.
<Yes... a good idea... the bioballs are unnecessary... and a pain to get
about...>
The tank is a 100Gallon, and the area in the back for filtration is roughly
2' long, 2' tall and about 4" wide. It has some flow through baffles in it
for what is supposed to be a protein skimmer (airstone with a cup on top,
PATHETIC!) and then the bio ball holders.
<Yes... dismiss the current skimmer entirely... place another as a hang on is
my first choice... a sump region addition secondarily>
I was thinking of turning this area into a small refugium and wanted your
thoughts. I was thinking of throwing in some small pieces of LR on the
bottom, then some Caulerpa on top. The water would skim off the top, into
this back area refugium, then out a drain to the sump, then back to the main
front of the tank.
<A very good idea...>
I'm puzzled as to how to get enough light in there, since this thing is narrow
and tall, I want to make sure enough light gets to the bottom. Are
there any "submersible" tubes of light that you're aware of? Is
lighting
the top opening enough for Caulerpa?
<No need to submerse... look for a single Compact fluorescent lamp/fixture
here... Perfecto makes some, and there are many imports as well... this is what
we use on the model refugium filters we've been experimenting with for years...
leave on 24/7>
Will this area be enough for the 100G, or am I better off making a larger
refugium in the sump? I only want the nitrate reduction, and am not so
concerned with copepods and such.
<Would just use the one on back as such... can convert, add the sump later if
you deem that that's what you want...>
If not so good for a refugium, how about at least some airstones to highly
aerate the water before going to the sump? This seems like it won't do too
much. I just don't want this area to simply hold water. Suggestions?
<Make the back into a Caulerpa, live rock refugium... for sure>
PS. Cleaning out a poorly maintained aquarium is one of the worst tasks I
have ever done... so nasty. There was a decaying fish in there... yuck!
Poor fish. I will redeem the tank however and make it place for healthy
living.
<Hmm, yes>
PSS. Great tip on the Rubbermaid containers for the sump. I'm gonna use
the 40G Rubbermaid tote... it's perfect!!! Much obliged.
<Great products, use. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
- Eugene
Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
I have a 55 gallon Advanced Aqua tank with the built-in filtration system.
I have removed all of the mechanical filtration media, and added a simple,
air-driven protein skimmer. So, I am basically running the protein skimmer
and wet/dry system in concert with a bunch of live rock in my tank. Sorryto say, I don't know the total weight of the live rock, but it takes up
about 20% of the volume of the tank. I also employ an active "cleanup
crew"
that keeps my cleaning maintenance to a minimum.
<Okay>
What do I need to do to make this a serviceable tank? I don't have much
livestock in the tank now--just 2 chocolate chip starfish, 3 damsels (one is
now 3"!), and the snails and crabs in the "crew." I also started
this tank
6 years ago with a combo of live rock and completely dead, dry rock. All
the rock is seeded now and supports coralline algae and small worms and such.
<Hmm, serviceable? I'd add some sort of convenient, sturdy mechanical
filtration that is flexible enough to add some biological (hypoxic) media and
the occasional (monthly) chemical in the way of activated carbon... My choice?
An Eheim canister filter with either their mech-mech media on the bottom or
Siporax beads (one time purchase)... and likely a unit of Boyd's Chemipure every
month... Much of this elaborated in various FAQs sections on our website:
www.WetWebMedia.com under the same heading names... Oh, and add some lighting (a
small compact fluorescent) to the former wet-dry sump and some live rock and
macro-algae (genus Caulerpa)... this is about it.>
Pretty soon I would like to catch the damsels and replace them with some
nice community fish and add some anemones and such.
Oh, I also just replaced my lighting with a 96w SmartLite system. I used to
have room for only 2 1.5"x36" fluorescent bulbs in the former hood and
this
is a major improvement so far!
<Oh yes.>
Thanks again, Linda
<You're welcome my friend in fish. Bob Fenner>Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
Bob,
I have spent time reading more and understand that I should remove the
bioballs from my wet/dry and convert that area (under the drip tray) to a
refugium.
<In almost all cases a good/better idea>
I can raise the water level in the rear section of the tank to
accommodate for the change so that the LR is underwater. As a bonus, the
overall flow from my sump should increase since the pump won't have to
"lift" the water as high to return it to the display portion of the
tank.
<Yes>
You recommended using a canister filter. I have an engineering degree, but
after spending several years now as an at-home mom, I must be going dopey.
I can't for the life of me figure out how I would use one of these with my
tank. Aren't they "in-line" equipment?
<Yes, pressurized... sorry for likely being unclear here... but this would be
a separate, redundant filtration, circulation addition>
Since I have a built-in filtration
system in the back section of my tank, I have no "lines" per se. I do
have
3 vertical chambers prior to the drip tray. The first two are fed by
overflow from the tank. The first section also overflows to the second.
The second section flows down and feeds the (very narrow) third section from
the bottom. This, in turn, overflows to the wet/dry drip tray. The wet/dry
feeds the final section from the bottom (the sump pump is located there to
return water to the tank).
The first section is used for my foam fractionator protein skimmer. The
second section is equipped with several ledges for media trays. All the
water does have to flow down through this section, so Advanced Aqua intended
it to be used for mechanical filtration. The third section is very skinny,
but is used now just for the heater.
<I understand... know Alan Lem the owner, the units... and consider them too
puny for their intended function... hence my encouragement to modify the
build-in and add other components>
I removed everything from the second section and am floating a
hydrometer/thermometer in there currently.
Is there a filter I should be utilizing in that second section? Should I
simply stack some media in there in a certain order?
<The latter here>
Would that be adequate
or do I really need a pressurized mechanical filtration? If so, what is the
best way to accomplish that when there are no "lines" to attach to?
<Hmm, well... you, your system would greatly benefit from additional water
movement, mechanical filtration and more... Consider this: I would like you to
open your mind to many alternate possibilities... you could cut the tank, add a
thru-hull to remote filtration to a sump... where algae filtration, a much
better skimmer et al. could be isolated... and pump/return the water to your
main/display system... as a "zenith" plan. Please read through the
"Mechanicals" section on our website, particularly the associated FAQs
files here... for much more.>
Also, I have used Chemipure in the past and really like it. I put it in the
second section and make sure it fills the cross-section of the section so
that the water is forced through it.
<Yes, a good placement...>
I removed the mechanical filtration because some site somewhere recommended
removing it, claiming that it is just a nutrient sink. I do notice more
particulate matter in my tank, but my water is amazingly clean and balanced
considering how lax I have been in water changes. I must just be lucky....
<Not just... also intelligent, resourceful...>
You and your advice are great.
Thanks so much, Linda
<Let us keep chatting, you keep studying, considering your possibilities. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
> If I were to modify the tank by cutting it, would I just be abandoning
the entire back (filtration) portion? The LFS folks told me that it is too narrow to even be a worthwhile refugium. Is there any use for this other than as a really large overflow?
> <IMO not really... I would abandon it as a "functional"
unit>
Knowing that I will eventually just be using the filter area as a very large
surface skimmer, what volume do I now use to calculate pump sizes, refugium
size, appropriate stocking, etc.? The display area of my tank is about 45 G
and the back portion is about 15 G (I measured that the back is 1/3 the
width of the display).
<<Oversize as usual...>>
Where is the best place to take the inflow and outflow of the canister? The
sump/refugium? The back of the tank? The display tank?
<The back of the display tank... in either corner... the "intake"
near the bottom, the discharge at the surface in a spray across the top of the
system's surface water>
I have a bubbler in my tank currently for increased dissolved oxygen (not
sure it does much of anything). Really, I put it in when buying a better
air pump for my skimmer. I just split the air and sent part through the
bubbler. It makes a mess of my tank cover. I get lots of algae on the
cover over the bubbler and under my light. The air pump is the noisiest
part of my system too, even after replacing the diaphragm. I'd really like
to turn this off when I get a new skimmer that doesn't require an air pump.
Would losing the bubbler be a real detriment to the tank? My current sump
pump is rated at about 4-500 GPH now and will go down to about 300 GPH when
I move it to the planned for sump/refugium.
<Probably will be fine to turn off the noisy bubbler pump... but do keep it
handy for back-up, emergencies...>
How much do snails, hermit crabs, and abalone affect stocking allowances?
Will the extra "buffer" from the abandoned filter area in this tank allow
the tank to support a higher density of stocking?
<Some and some... not much.>
Thanks for your help.
Linda
<Bob Fenner>
Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
Bob,
Thanks so much for your help. Are you saying to remove the bioballs and
replace them with live rock and macroalgae (and lighting)?
<Yes... pls see the "Algal Filtration" FAQs area on our website:
www.WetWebMedia.com for more here. Bob Fenner>
Linda
More Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
Well, as my husband pointed out, I will be really busy with my 3rd baby
soon, due in July. So, I have plenty of time to plan before taking too much
action.
<This is well>
In the short run, I am going to add back in mechanical filtration to the
section of the current system intended for that. I will also be more
diligent with Chemipure cycling. I have a bunch of polyester filter fiber
around and will use that up first (with the Chemipure).
I am also going to replace my less than adequate protein skimmer. I'm
thinking of getting a Remora or Remora Pro hang-on skimmer since they
require minimal clearance. Guess I need to look at upgrading the pump that
comes with them.
<A good idea as well>
Q's for my "mind-opening" planning:
If I were to modify the tank by cutting it, would I just be abandoning theentire back (filtration) portion? The LFS folks told me that it is too
narrow to even be a worthwhile refugium. Is there any use for this other
than as a really large overflow?
<IMO not really... I would abandon it as a "functional" unit>
I also know I will need to add some powerheads to the display tank to
increase the water movement. My current return pump is rated at somewhere
between 4-600 gph, depending on lift (it is a Rio, though). It has greater
flow than the sump pump that came with the tank and blew out during one of
our wonderful Bay Area power outages a couple of years ago.<Yikes>
Thank you so much. I don't know how you have time for all of us "just
learning" folks.
<I key quickly. Bob Fenner, coming home from Kona this eve>
Linda
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New Tank
Bob
Hi, I have yet another question for you. I have decided to move up in tank size. I am going from a 46 reef to a 135.
<Wish our disposable incomes increased in such a fashion!>
I am looking at a acrylic integrated tank. All the filtration is built into the back of the tank. It uses sponges instead of bio balls and has two protein skimmers. My LFS owner said that kind of tank is the only thing he owns. I am just curious if you know anything about these type of tanks and if you think they are a good deal.
<Hmm, do know of several kinds, makers (like CASCO, DAS...) and am not a fan of any that I've come across. Invariably they're puny on the actual filtering capacity, and royal pain to service and maintain... I would seek out (more charitable and positive!) input from BB's, Chatforums (like ours?: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/)... maybe someone has improved on this "all in one approach"... I would go with separate sump, gear... much more workable, flexible... easier to work on.>
This tank costs around 1000.00 more then a regular tank so I want to make sure I make the right decision. Thank you for all your help.
Jason
<Chat with you soon my friend. Bob Fenner>
TUNZE
Hello,
Wasn't sure if this was the place to write about comments concerning
Tunze equipment but here ya go.
<Okay>
I bought a Tunze self contained system
for my well established tank of two years. NEVER had big problems until
installing this system. 1st I had nothing but air blowing from thefiltration system for 3 months and got NO help from Tunze even though I
wrote them numerous times.
<Hmm, why aren't you cc'ing them here? I will>
2nd the protein skimmer had to be babied like
opening it up and disassembling and cleaning the inside of the motor
every month and 3rd the top off although great in theory was never
working properly. My thoughts on Tunze are not favorable.
<I gathered>
I took the
entire system back to where I bought it and of course lost 10% of what I
paid including most of my corals due to the incredible poor workmanship
and customer service. I also had put $200 down on the system and waited
for 3 months until Tunze finally shipped it to me. All and all I think
the entire disaster cost me over $3000. in lost livestock and time. I
now have just live rock and am looking for a good protein skimmer which
you don't have to take the motor apart to clean the inside, one that works
great and a company with integrity.
If you know of someone would you
please offer some advice.
<Please see this part of our site re skimmer selection: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm
and the related/links, FAQs beyond>
Tunze does not believe they EVER make any
faulty equipment, they must not be human!
<This is a popular, though pricey line imported from Europe... many people do report success with their products...>
Sincerely,
Trina
<Sorry to hear of your bad experiences... and glad to hear of your fortitude of character in returning the gear, and not giving up. I will gladly help you in your ambitions to be successful.
Bob Fenner>
CPR Bak-Pak
I just had one question. What info do you have on the CPR Bakpaks (wet/dry,
skimmer filters). Good? or Bad? John
<IMO, a very nice package for smaller tanks, 55 or under. More can be found
by performing a Google Search of WWM. -Steven Pro>
D.A.S. aquarium upgrade
Hi Bob,
I have a 55 gallon D.A.S. aquarium I've had for about five yrs. now. I am interested in some kind of filter upgrade for water quality & was wondering what you suggest I do. My fish usually do o.k. for 1/2 yr to a 1 yr but eventually die...corals don't do so great & die quicker...Is the self contained filter system in the D.A.S. aquariums enough for a truly healthy tank???? I would like to make some
mod.s & changes to
enhance the quality of my reef tank. Any Ideas????????
<Many... the zenith? Would attach a sump, lighting, and grow macro-algae there as detailed on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com under "Algal Filtration"... and abandon the DAS skimmer and get a decent in sump or hang on model... my opinions here also on the WWM site>
I'm currently changing 20 gallons a wk for the past month, from 10 gallons a month since I've had the tank...I ordered a 4 stage RO/DI filter; should be getting from UPS this wk for my water changes. With the increase of water changes, I'm trying to get my algae problem under control &
enhance water quality. So my next step is upgrading my filter system of the tank.
<You won't regret having the water purification system for your drinking, cooking and pet-fishing uses...>
Lee Harris
Dallas, TX
P.S. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
<Chat with you soon. Bob Fenner>
Canister Filters/skimmers 11/16/05
Hi Gang!
I have a question about canister filters. Again, because I have not been in this hobby long, I am not sure which pieces of equipment are
recommended.
My tank setup is as follows:
29 Gallon AGA Tank
Live reef sand
20 pounds of Live Rock (Fiji)
Whisper 30 HOT Power Filter (With Carbon and Purigen)
Inverts:
Orange Ridge Starfish
Peppermint Cleaner Shrimp
3 Red foot crabs.
Fish (all in treatment tank for ICH)
-2 Percula Clownfish
1 Royal Gramma
1 Pink Damsel
<Too much antagonism for this size/volume...>
Now, I would like to upgrade my filtration to a canister filter since I do not have enough space or anyway to conceal a wet-dry or Sump
filter. Plus I don't plan on keeping corals right now. So, in your experience, which one of these would you most recommend.
-Fluval 205
-Rena Filstar XP1
-Eheim (Don't think I could afford a professional model though.)
<The Eheim is the best here... not just initial purchase price to consider, but electrical use, quiet, longest life...>
And, since I am still on the look for a protein skimmer, I want to be able to provide the best filtration and nutrient control possible
during this time.
<I would buy the skimmer first>
Since my fish will be in QT until about December 24th, do you have any recommendations on how to "prime" the new
filter and grow beneficial bacteria before taking out the Whisper? Should I run then in tandem? (For a while?)
<Yes... a month or more overlap... I'd run both, ongoing>
Thanks so very much for your help!
PS- Lets just say I purchase the Bak-Pak 2 skimmer. Would It still be necessary for me to purchase the Canister or could the skimmer
provide adequate biological filtration with the "Bio-Bale"?
<Mmm, you could likely get by on a CPR unit that incorporated a skimmer itself>
would I have to add a sponge to it for mechanical filtration?
<Not likely>
Thanks again!
-Jon
<Bob Fenner>
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