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FAQs on Marine Filtration
Brands/Manufacturers Related
Articles: Marine
Filtration, Marine
Aquarium Filtration, by Adam Cesnales,
Central Filtration Systems, Related
FAQs: Marine
Filtration 1,
Marine Filtration 2, Marine
Filtration 3, Marine Filtration 4,
Marine Filtration 5, Marine Filtration
6, Marine Filtration 7,
Marine Filtration 8,
Marine Filtration 9, Marine
Filtration 10, Marine Filtration 11,
Marine Filtration 12, & FAQs on Marine Filtration:
Designs, Installation,
Maintenance, Troubleshooting/Repair,
DIY, & By Type of System:
FO System Filtration,
FOWLR Set-Ups,
Reef Tank Setups,
Reef Filtration,
Small Tank Setups, Large System
Filtration/Circulation/Aeration, & By Aspect and Gear:
Biol.:
Biological Filtration,
Denitrification/Denitrifiers,
Fluidized Beds,
DSBs, Plenums,
Algal Filtration, Mech.:
Marine Mechanical Filtration, Power
Filters, Outside Power Filters,
Canister, Cartridge Filters,
Undergravel Filters, Wet-Dry
Filters, Phys.: Ultraviolet
Sterilizers, Ozone,
To Skim or Not to Skim, Best Skimmer
FAQs, Chem.:
Nutrient Control and Export, Chemical
Filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter, Chemipure, Purigen),
Carbon, Mud/Algal Filtration
, Phony:
Magnetic Field Filtration, & Troubles:
Bubbles, Noise, |
Built ins... by SeaClear, Tenecor, Advanced Aqua Tank, DAS...? Nah,
too puny and difficult to work on/with. Better to abandon such and
treat as dead space, area to drill through-puts and remote your
filtration elsewhere. |
Filtration/Dialyseas opinion
3/15/09
Hello, crew:
<Hi Steve>
I appreciate your site and all the info you have helped me with in the
past. I was wondering what your opinion of the Dialyseas device is from
Sea Visions. This is their website
http://www.seavisions.com/dialyseas_aquarium_dialysis_equi.htm
If it does what they say it does, it would seem as though no marine
aquarium should be without it. But often when things sound too good to
be true, they are not; so I thought you may know of some reason that
this is not in more widespread use.
<Because it is cost prohibitive to most aquarists. This product is
geared for upscale folks that can afford the aquariums Sea Visions
builds for them.>
I know it is expensive, but I think all of us that are serious about
marine husbandry stopped worrying about how expensive things are long
ago.
<Looking at the product gives me the chills, I'm wondering
realistically, how much it would cost to maintain/operate.>
Also wanted to get your opinion on their C.A.D.S. system. Here is the
link
for it: http://www.seavisions.com/CADS%20PAGE.htm
It would seem that the C.A.D.S. set up with the Dialyseas device would
improve the health of our little marine buddies and make our lives a
little easier. What are your thoughts?
<Impressive to say the least but I'm not willing to spend 6K on a system
when my 200 dollar skimmer and my pail of
Tropic Marin salt keeps my animals healthy and long lived. Again, for
upscale folks, usually people who haven't got a clue on maintaining
marine aquariums but can afford to pay for the services to enjoy the
beauty. Have to go see Jack Daniels now to warm up.
James (Salty Dog)>
Steve
Freedom Filter
Has anyone heard anything good or bad about the
Freedom Filter filtration system by Freedom Aquarium Products LLC? There
website is
http://www.freedomaquarium.com. Looks like a "hang on the
back" all in one filtration/protein
skimmer/mechanical/chemical
system. Cost is around $300.00..
<Haven't seen... neat concept... a
winner if it works. You might try the larger BB's like Reefs.org... to
see if others have direct experience. Bob Fenner> DAS
aquarium modification and skimmer question???? 9/22/05
I
have a very unique problem. I have a 100 gallon glass DAS room divider
designed tank. It has the (sort of) sump in the end of the tank masked
by a black acrylic overflow wall. Behind this wall are six separate
partitions.
<Am familiar>
I am trying to figure out the best way
to set up for a reef tank. One of the partitioned compartments is
supposed to be utilized as the skimmer wherein an air stone is attached
to the base of a long plastic stick which protrudes into a receptacle
cup.
<These units are feeble. Let's "cut to the proverbial chase"
here... and suggest you retrofit either a sump (best) to situate your
skimmer (and more) in, or use a hang on model...>
The problem is
the pump returns for the biological filters are sucking off the bubbles
to the air stone and causing air regurge with large quantities of
bubbles pumped into the tank as well as causing serious hindrance to the
skimming action of the in-house skimmer, compounded by a loud noise made
by the pumps.
<Poor design>
I was hoping to find an effective
skimmer design that could be placed in the overflow/pseudo sump, that
would not be affected by biological filter pumps, the height or buoyancy
of the surrounding water, and did not have a footprint larger than
preferably 5" x 8" and not any taller than 23 inches, alternatively I
could knock out another partition and make a foot print of 5" x 13" with
the same height dimension. My only other alternative would be to locate
a skimmer that could set underneath my tank in the hidden cabinet that
did not exceed 17" x 11" and no higher than 21" maybe 22". The 17" x
11" x 22"h is the under cabinet measurement that still leaves room for
the electrical lighting systems electrical cords.
<Yes... signs of
thought here...>
I do not know if a sump is possible for this size
tank. I have not been able to understand or locate the availability for
a better skimming design in my situation that is even on the market. I
have read about the sumpless Terminator but it seems to large. My
cabinet and tank is beautiful and I really do not want the clash of a
hang skimmer or in view skimmer. I have looked at the Remora hang on
skimmers to see if perhaps it could hang on the black acrylic overflow
wall that hides the pumps, but the location of the upside down V-shape
of the tank siphon in that design requires too much head room for my
tank lids to close over it and I do not know whether such a design can
handle the volume of water it would be surrounded by and still operate
properly.
<Could>
I would greatly appreciate your
suggestions. This has been a very long and involved investigation
without much fruit. Most skimmers I have seen are hang-ons or
in-sumps. If in-tank skimmers exist, do you think I can hide such a
skimmer in a pseudo sump in this DAS design and how effective is such an
"in-tank" sump?
<Mmm, no... there are times I've seen (expensive)
Tunze skimmers retrofitted here, but...>
Thank you for your help.
Greg C.
<I'd move the sump... somewhere else... around the corner,
through the floor... Maybe try making a skimmer DIY... Bob Fenner>
Re: DAS aquarium modification and skimmer question???? 9/23/05
Bob:
<Greg>
Thank you for your swift response. Yet, I need
more clarification.
When you said, "Yes... signs of thought here",
do you mean that a skimmer could fit in the under cabinet without the
necessity of a sump in that location, i.e., sumpless skimmer, and where
is my starting point for a DIY skimmer?
<Unfortunately, not easily.
Sorry for the lack of clarity. What I meant to signify is that you'd
been clearly thinking, considering your options>
Also, what do you
think about using less pump power to stop the bubble infiltration, (e.g.
I will go back to the DAS OEM pumps, and add a Tunze stream in the
tank)?
<Still are dismal filtering mechanisms...>
This tank
actually used to work and look nice with live rock and an anemone with
some fish with pink coralline everywhere. Thereafter, I stored it after
moving offices, lost some parts, forgot the system and now I want to go
coral. By the way, enjoyed the book. They actually had it at Borders
and in stock, great pictures but I don't see in it where you tell me how
to build my DIY skimmer, but you do emphasize its importance.
<Mmm,
check Ozreef.org re some spiffy DIY plans>
Maybe it would be less
pain to buy a new tank with a cabinet large enough to hide my sump
underneath?
<Ah, yes... likely the best solution period here. Bob
Fenner>
Greg C. Question for Bob F -- SeaClear
Hi Bob.
<Hey Trey>
First, I've got say what a fantastic resource
this web site is....Thank you all!!!
<Welcome>
My question is
about SeaClear System II aquariums. I read a post where you called them
"bunk" and I was wondering what you didn't like about them?
<Two
items: the inadequacy of the filter components and the difficulty of
working on them (for other readers, these systems have integrated...
part of the back of the tank itself...compartments for filter media,
pump, skimmer...>
What do you think is a good alternative to the self
contained system? I know wet/dry filters cause a lot of nitrates and I
was going to try and balance that out with 4 inches of live sand and
Cell pore media.
<Sump, refugium, skimmer set-ups. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
re
filtration...>
I'm just getting back in the hobby after ten years and
thought they looked like a pretty cool design. All self contained with a
spot for a protein skimmer and a heater. No drilling, no external
plumbing, etc.
<... yes, except they "don't work" worth a darn, and
are a pain to get into, work on...>
I'm planning a fish only, 50
gallon, with 4 inches of live sand to help withthe nitrates. I'd like to
keep all tank raised fish with little or no rock collected from natural
sources. I'm thinking about False Percula Clownfish, Orchid Dottyback
and a Neon Goby and few other tank raised fish with a clean up crew down
the road. The whole idea is to have a complete marine tank that's not
collected from nature.
Any thoughts you may have on the SeaClear
System II ( or alternatives ) and my choice of a tank raised fish with
man made rocks would be great?
Thanks!!!
Trey
<Read, keep good
notes on going through "Marine Set-Up" section above. Bob Fenner>
Built-In Filters
I have read that you like Tenecor's Simplicity
Plus, and Advance Aqua's Uniquarium, but I haven't really seen any
discussion about advantages/disadvantages to either one. I am more
curious about your comparisons of the built-in filtration in each. It
seems that the Tenecor would be the better choice. Thoughts? Tim
McLaren
<Well, Tim- both are well made, and come from reputable
sources. My only real criticism of these systems is that they do not
allow a lot of flexibility, as far as the installation of protein
skimmers is concerned. You may be able to install a HOT skimmer, like
the Aqua C. Remora, or maybe a Tunze unit, if you can figure out the
mounting. I'd remove the plastic filtration media, if it were me. I'd
use the back compartment as a "sump" of some sort, and place carbon
and/or PolyFilter pads in there. The only other disadvantage to these
units, IMO is that they tend to make the inside of the tank a bit more
"narrow", which may or may not be aesthetically displeasing to you (I
don't like tall narrow tanks, myself...Other than that, either one seems
to be as good as the other. Regards, Scott F>
Tim Tank with
built in filtration in rear
Hello again Bob...
You know those
aquariums where the back "bows" out to hide filtration in the rear of
the tank?
<Yes>
Kinda like the Tenecor Berlin System tanks
http://www.tenecor.com/aquar/images/berlin.jpg ? Well, I think you're
supposed to put a lot of bio-balls in the back area, but since I'm going
to have enough biological filtration with the LR and LS, I want to do
something creative with it.
<Yes... a good idea... the bioballs are
unnecessary... and a pain to get about...>
The tank is a 100Gallon,
and the area in the back for filtration is roughly 2' long, 2' tall and
about 4" wide. It has some flow through baffles in it for what is
supposed to be a protein skimmer (airstone with a cup on top, PATHETIC!)
and then the bio ball holders.
<Yes... dismiss the current skimmer
entirely... place another as a hang on is my first choice... a sump
region addition secondarily>
I was thinking of turning this area into
a small refugium and wanted your thoughts. I was thinking of throwing in
some small pieces of LR on the bottom, then some Caulerpa on top. The
water would skim off the top, into this back area refugium, then out a
drain to the sump, then back to the main front of the tank.
<A very
good idea...>
I'm puzzled as to how to get enough light in there,
since this thing is narrow and tall, I want to make sure enough light
gets to the bottom. Are there any "submersible" tubes of light that
you're aware of? Is lighting the top opening enough for Caulerpa?
<No
need to submerse... look for a single Compact fluorescent lamp/fixture
here... Perfecto makes some, and there are many imports as well... this
is what we use on the model refugium filters we've been experimenting
with for years... leave on 24/7>
Will this area be enough for the
100G, or am I better off making a larger refugium in the sump? I only
want the nitrate reduction, and am not so concerned with copepods and
such.
<Would just use the one on back as such... can convert, add the
sump later if you deem that that's what you want...>
If not so good
for a refugium, how about at least some airstones to highly aerate the
water before going to the sump? This seems like it won't do too much. I
just don't want this area to simply hold water. Suggestions?
<Make
the back into a Caulerpa, live rock refugium... for sure>
PS.
Cleaning out a poorly maintained aquarium is one of the worst tasks I
have ever done... so nasty. There was a decaying fish in there... yuck!
Poor fish. I will redeem the tank however and make it place for healthy
living.
<Hmm, yes>
PSS. Great tip on the Rubbermaid containers for
the sump. I'm gonna use the 40G Rubbermaid tote... it's perfect!!! Much
obliged.
<Great products, use. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
- Eugene
Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
I have a 55 gallon Advanced
Aqua tank with the built-in filtration system.
I have removed all
of the mechanical filtration media, and added a simple, air-driven
protein skimmer. So, I am basically running the protein skimmer and
wet/dry system in concert with a bunch of live rock in my tank.
Sorryto say, I don't know the total weight of the live rock, but it
takes up about 20% of the volume of the tank. I also employ an
active "cleanup crew" that keeps my cleaning maintenance to a
minimum.
<Okay>
What do I need to do to make this a
serviceable tank? I don't have much livestock in the tank now--just
2 chocolate chip starfish, 3 damsels (one is now 3"!), and the
snails and crabs in the "crew." I also started this tank 6 years ago
with a combo of live rock and completely dead, dry rock. All the
rock is seeded now and supports coralline algae and small worms and
such.
<Hmm, serviceable? I'd add some sort of convenient, sturdy
mechanical filtration that is flexible enough to add some biological
(hypoxic) media and the occasional (monthly) chemical in the way of
activated carbon... My choice? An Eheim canister filter with either
their mech-mech media on the bottom or Siporax beads (one time
purchase)... and likely a unit of Boyd's Chemipure every month...
Much of this elaborated in various FAQs sections on our website:
www.WetWebMedia.com under the same heading names... Oh, and add some
lighting (a small compact fluorescent) to the former wet-dry sump
and some live rock and macro-algae (genus Caulerpa)... this is about
it.>
Pretty soon I would like to catch the damsels and replace
them with some nice community fish and add some anemones and such.
Oh, I also just replaced my lighting with a 96w SmartLite system. I
used to have room for only 2 1.5"x36" fluorescent bulbs in the
former hood and this is a major improvement so far!
<Oh yes.>
Thanks again, Linda
<You're welcome my friend in fish. Bob
Fenner>Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
Bob,
I have
spent time reading more and understand that I should remove the
bioballs from my wet/dry and convert that area (under the drip tray)
to a refugium.
<In almost all cases a good/better idea>
I can
raise the water level in the rear section of the tank to accommodate
for the change so that the LR is underwater. As a bonus, the overall
flow from my sump should increase since the pump won't have to
"lift" the water as high to return it to the display portion of the
tank.
<Yes>
You recommended using a canister filter. I have an
engineering degree, but after spending several years now as an
at-home mom, I must be going dopey.
I can't for the life of me
figure out how I would use one of these with my tank. Aren't they
"in-line" equipment?
<Yes, pressurized... sorry for likely being
unclear here... but this would be a separate, redundant filtration,
circulation addition>
Since I have a built-in filtration system
in the back section of my tank, I have no "lines" per se. I do have
3 vertical chambers prior to the drip tray. The first two are fed by
overflow from the tank. The first section also overflows to the
second.
The second section flows down and feeds the (very narrow)
third section from the bottom. This, in turn, overflows to the
wet/dry drip tray. The wet/dry feeds the final section from the
bottom (the sump pump is located there to return water to the tank).
The first section is used for my foam fractionator protein skimmer.
The second section is equipped with several ledges for media trays.
All the water does have to flow down through this section, so
Advanced Aqua intended it to be used for mechanical filtration. The
third section is very skinny, but is used now just for the heater.
<I understand... know Alan Lem the owner, the units... and consider
them too puny for their intended function... hence my encouragement
to modify the build-in and add other components>
I removed
everything from the second section and am floating a
hydrometer/thermometer in there currently.
Is there a filter I
should be utilizing in that second section? Should I simply stack
some media in there in a certain order?
<The latter here>
Would that be adequate or do I really need a pressurized mechanical
filtration? If so, what is the best way to accomplish that when
there are no "lines" to attach to?
<Hmm, well... you, your system
would greatly benefit from additional water movement, mechanical
filtration and more... Consider this: I would like you to open your
mind to many alternate possibilities... you could cut the tank, add
a thru-hull to remote filtration to a sump... where algae
filtration, a much better skimmer et al. could be isolated... and
pump/return the water to your main/display system... as a "zenith"
plan. Please read through the "Mechanicals" section on our website,
particularly the associated FAQs files here... for much more.>
Also, I have used Chemipure in the past and really like it. I put it
in the second section and make sure it fills the cross-section of
the section so that the water is forced through it.
<Yes, a good
placement...>
I removed the mechanical filtration because some
site somewhere recommended removing it, claiming that it is just a
nutrient sink. I do notice more particulate matter in my tank, but
my water is amazingly clean and balanced considering how lax I have
been in water changes. I must just be lucky....
<Not just... also
intelligent, resourceful...>
You and your advice are great.
Thanks so much, Linda
<Let us keep chatting, you keep studying,
considering your possibilities. Bob Fenner> Re: Advanced
Aqua Tank filtration
> If I were to modify the tank by
cutting it, would I just be abandoning the entire back (filtration)
portion? The LFS folks told me that it is too narrow to even be a
worthwhile refugium. Is there any use for this other than as a
really large overflow?
> <IMO not really... I would abandon it as
a "functional" unit>
Knowing that I will eventually just be using
the filter area as a very large surface skimmer, what volume do I
now use to calculate pump sizes, refugium size, appropriate
stocking, etc.? The display area of my tank is about 45 G and the
back portion is about 15 G (I measured that the back is 1/3 the
width of the display).
<<Oversize as usual...>>
Where is the
best place to take the inflow and outflow of the canister? The
sump/refugium? The back of the tank? The display tank?
<The back
of the display tank... in either corner... the "intake" near the
bottom, the discharge at the surface in a spray across the top of
the system's surface water>
I have a bubbler in my tank currently
for increased dissolved oxygen (not sure it does much of anything).
Really, I put it in when buying a better air pump for my skimmer. I
just split the air and sent part through the bubbler. It makes a
mess of my tank cover. I get lots of algae on the cover over the
bubbler and under my light. The air pump is the noisiest part of my
system too, even after replacing the diaphragm. I'd really like to
turn this off when I get a new skimmer that doesn't require an air
pump.
Would losing the bubbler be a real detriment to the tank?
My current sump pump is rated at about 4-500 GPH now and will go
down to about 300 GPH when I move it to the planned for
sump/refugium.
<Probably will be fine to turn off the noisy
bubbler pump... but do keep it handy for back-up, emergencies...>
How much do snails, hermit crabs, and abalone affect stocking
allowances?
Will the extra "buffer" from the abandoned filter
area in this tank allow the tank to support a higher density of
stocking?
<Some and some... not much.>
Thanks for your help.
Linda
<Bob Fenner> Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
Bob,
Thanks so much for your help. Are you saying to remove the
bioballs and replace them with live rock and macroalgae (and
lighting)?
<Yes... pls see the "Algal Filtration" FAQs area on
our website: www.WetWebMedia.com for more here. Bob Fenner>
Linda
More Advanced Aqua Tank filtration
Well, as my husband
pointed out, I will be really busy with my 3rd baby soon, due in
July. So, I have plenty of time to plan before taking too much
action.
<This is well>
In the short run, I am going to add
back in mechanical filtration to the section of the current system
intended for that. I will also be more diligent with Chemipure
cycling. I have a bunch of polyester filter fiber around and will
use that up first (with the Chemipure).
I am also going to
replace my less than adequate protein skimmer. I'm thinking of
getting a Remora or Remora Pro hang-on skimmer since they require
minimal clearance. Guess I need to look at upgrading the pump that
comes with them.
<A good idea as well>
Q's for my
"mind-opening" planning:
If I were to modify the tank by cutting
it, would I just be abandoning theentire back (filtration) portion?
The LFS folks told me that it is too narrow to even be a worthwhile
refugium. Is there any use for this other than as a really large
overflow?
<IMO not really... I would abandon it as a "functional"
unit>
I also know I will need to add some powerheads to the
display tank to increase the water movement. My current return pump
is rated at somewhere between 4-600 gph, depending on lift (it is a
Rio, though). It has greater flow than the sump pump that came with
the tank and blew out during one of our wonderful Bay Area power
outages a couple of years ago.<Yikes>
Thank you so much. I don't
know how you have time for all of us "just learning" folks.
<I
key quickly. Bob Fenner, coming home from Kona this eve>
Linda |
New Tank
Bob
Hi, I have yet another question for you. I have
decided to move up in tank size. I am going from a 46 reef to a 135.
<Wish our disposable incomes increased in such a fashion!>
I am
looking at a acrylic integrated tank. All the filtration is built into
the back of the tank. It uses sponges instead of bio balls and has two
protein skimmers. My LFS owner said that kind of tank is the only thing
he owns. I am just curious if you know anything about these type of
tanks and if you think they are a good deal.
<Hmm, do know of
several kinds, makers (like CASCO, DAS...) and am not a fan of any that
I've come across. Invariably they're puny on the actual filtering
capacity, and royal pain to service and maintain... I would seek out
(more charitable and positive!) input from BB's, Chatforums (like ours?:
http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/)... maybe someone has improved on this "all
in one approach"... I would go with separate sump, gear... much more
workable, flexible... easier to work on.>
This tank costs around
1000.00 more then a regular tank so I want to make sure I make the right
decision. Thank you for all your help.
Jason
<Chat with you soon
my friend. Bob Fenner> TUNZE
Hello,
Wasn't sure if
this was the place to write about comments concerning Tunze equipment
but here ya go.
<Okay>
I bought a Tunze self contained system for
my well established tank of two years. NEVER had big problems until
installing this system. 1st I had nothing but air blowing from
thefiltration system for 3 months and got NO help from Tunze even though
I wrote them numerous times.
<Hmm, why aren't you cc'ing them here?
I will>
2nd the protein skimmer had to be babied like opening it up
and disassembling and cleaning the inside of the motor every month and
3rd the top off although great in theory was never working properly. My
thoughts on Tunze are not favorable.
<I gathered>
I took the
entire system back to where I bought it and of course lost 10% of what I
paid including most of my corals due to the incredible poor workmanship
and customer service. I also had put $200 down on the system and waited
for 3 months until Tunze finally shipped it to me. All and all I think
the entire disaster cost me over $3000. in lost livestock and time. I
now have just live rock and am looking for a good protein skimmer which
you don't have to take the motor apart to clean the inside, one that
works great and a company with integrity.
If you know of someone
would you please offer some advice.
<Please see this part of our site
re skimmer selection: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm
and
the related/links, FAQs beyond>
Tunze does not believe they EVER make
any faulty equipment, they must not be human!
<This is a popular,
though pricey line imported from Europe... many people do report success
with their products...>
Sincerely,
Trina
<Sorry to hear of your
bad experiences... and glad to hear of your fortitude of character in
returning the gear, and not giving up. I will gladly help you in your
ambitions to be successful.
Bob Fenner> CPR Bak-Pak
I just had one question. What info do you have on the CPR Bakpaks
(wet/dry, skimmer filters). Good? or Bad? John
<IMO, a very nice
package for smaller tanks, 55 or under. More can be found by performing
a Google Search of WWM. -Steven Pro> D.A.S. aquarium upgrade
Hi Bob,
I have a 55 gallon D.A.S. aquarium I've had for about five
yrs. now. I am interested in some kind of filter upgrade for water
quality & was wondering what you suggest I do. My fish usually do o.k.
for 1/2 yr to a 1 yr but eventually die...corals don't do so great & die
quicker...Is the self contained filter system in the D.A.S. aquariums
enough for a truly healthy tank???? I would like to make some mod.s &
changes to enhance the quality of my reef tank. Any Ideas????????
<Many... the zenith? Would attach a sump, lighting, and grow macro-algae
there as detailed on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com under "Algal
Filtration"... and abandon the DAS skimmer and get a decent in sump or
hang on model... my opinions here also on the WWM site>
I'm currently
changing 20 gallons a wk for the past month, from 10 gallons a month
since I've had the tank...I ordered a 4 stage RO/DI filter; should be
getting from UPS this wk for my water changes. With the increase of
water changes, I'm trying to get my algae problem under control &
enhance water quality. So my next step is upgrading my filter system of
the tank.
<You won't regret having the water purification system for
your drinking, cooking and pet-fishing uses...>
Lee Harris
Dallas,
TX
P.S. any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
<Chat with
you soon. Bob Fenner> Canister Filters/skimmers 11/16/05
Hi Gang!
I have a question about canister filters. Again, because I
have not been in this hobby long, I am not sure which pieces of
equipment are recommended.
My tank setup is as follows:
29 Gallon
AGA Tank
Live reef sand
20 pounds of Live Rock (Fiji)
Whisper
30 HOT Power Filter (With Carbon and Purigen)
Inverts:
Orange
Ridge Starfish
Peppermint Cleaner Shrimp
3 Red foot crabs.
Fish
(all in treatment tank for ICH)
-2 Percula Clownfish
1 Royal
Gramma
1 Pink Damsel
<Too much antagonism for this size/volume...>
Now, I would like to upgrade my filtration to a canister filter since I
do not have enough space or anyway to conceal a wet-dry or Sump filter.
Plus I don't plan on keeping corals right now. So, in your
experience, which one of these would you most recommend.
-Fluval 205
-Rena Filstar XP1
-Eheim (Don't think I could afford a professional
model though.)
<The Eheim is the best here... not just initial
purchase price to consider, but electrical use, quiet, longest life...>
And, since I am still on the look for a protein skimmer, I want to be
able to provide the best filtration and nutrient control possible during
this time.
<I would buy the skimmer first>
Since my fish will be
in QT until about December 24th, do you have any recommendations on how
to "prime" the new
filter and grow beneficial bacteria before taking
out the Whisper? Should I run then in tandem? (For a while?)
<Yes... a month or more overlap... I'd run both, ongoing>
Thanks so
very much for your help!
PS- Lets just say I purchase the Bak-Pak 2
skimmer. Would It still be necessary for me to purchase the
Canister or could the skimmer provide adequate biological filtration
with the "Bio-Bale"?
<Mmm, you could likely get by on a CPR unit that
incorporated a skimmer itself>
would I have to add a sponge to it for
mechanical filtration?
<Not likely>
Thanks again!
-Jon
<Bob
Fenner>
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