Re: DAS aquarium modification and skimmer question????  9/23/05
Bob:
<Greg>
    Thank you for your swift response.  Yet, I need more clarification.
When you said, "Yes... signs of thought here", do you mean that a skimmer could fit in the under cabinet without the necessity of a sump in that location, i.e., sumpless skimmer, and where is my starting point for a DIY skimmer?
<Unfortunately, not easily. Sorry for the lack of clarity. What I meant to signify is that you'd been clearly thinking, considering your options>
Also, what do you think about using less pump power to stop the bubble infiltration, (e.g. I will go back to the DAS OEM pumps, and add a Tunze stream in the tank)?
<Still are dismal filtering mechanisms...>
  This tank actually used to work and look nice with live rock and an anemone with some fish with pink coralline everywhere.  Thereafter, I stored it after moving offices, lost some parts, forgot the system and now I want to go coral.  By the way, enjoyed the book.  They actually had it at Borders and in stock, great pictures but I don't see in it where you tell me how to build my DIY skimmer, but you do emphasize its importance.
<Mmm, check Ozreef.org re some spiffy DIY plans>
  Maybe it would be less pain to buy a new tank with a cabinet large enough to hide my sump underneath?
<Ah, yes... likely the best solution period here. Bob Fenner>
Greg C.

Systems details
Hi,
<Clare>
I've written you a couple times before, and you haven't been responding so I hope I am reaching you guys....
<Yes, thank you for persisting... we do have some anomalous mail problems...>
anyway I emailed you about live rock my setup ideas, and miscellaneous reasons, so I thought you would like to know the details of my filtration, and give me your thoughts on them. Protein Skimmer: Sea Life systems brand (heard of them?)
<Yes... I think so>
Wet Dry filter: Sea Life Systems premier 125 gallon capacity ( I have a 75 gallon tank). Other components: Maxi Jet 900 submersible pump and power head from Marineland I think measured flow is 230 GPH?? (a little low?)
<Maybe...>
Also have a Rio Hyperflow 20 HF, I also have the CA 2200 aqua pump/ powerhead. All of these purchases were the best recommended at my LFS, what do you guys think (if you even know what I'm talking about :)
<Do like the Maxi Jet line... (Custom) Sea Life products... were okay... Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Clare

125 gallon pre-drilled tank ... best filtration? 9/17/05
I have a 125 gallon 4' by 2' predrilled tank 1-3/4 openings.
4 VHO actinic white and 2 VHO actinic blue 48" inch Corallife lights
2 fans for cooling light units and that's it.
I want to set up a nice tank for some live rock, some anemones and corals, but mostly fish.
Help.
There are just too many products on the market and I have no idea where to turn.
Everyone says something different and pet stores in this area are of no help. Closest salt water aquarium store is 2 hours away.
I just want someone to say, here, this is what you need, now go by it.
Thanks and let me know.
Right now the sump an protein skimmer are my biggest concerns.
Susanne Stanley
<Best to actually make up your own mind... based on an understanding of principles, possibilities... There are no shortcuts here. Please don't "just take my or anyone's word" for this... Study... on WWM, books, attend a few club get-togethers, visit others' tanks... And one point, don't try to mix corals and anemones... Bob Fenner>

Refugium/Skimmer Question - 09/10/05
We are setting up a 92 gallon corner bow front reef tank.  The part of the setup in question is the filtration.  Will a 20 gallon refugium be enough to handle all of the waste, or do we need a protein skimmer as well?
<<While a refugium is a very "beneficial" addition to any tank, it is my opinion that a quality skimmer is an "essential" addition.>>
It seems like it would definitely be a good idea, but we were still wondering if it is possible to run without a protein skimmer and still have good results.
<<Is possible to do without a skimmer, yes, I just don't like to recommend doing so...so many advantages/benefits to having one.>>
Thank you,
Cassie
<<Regards, EricR>>

Jebo system circulation, filtration  9/10/05
Hello crew,
<Mario>
I have a 60 gallon capacity tank with a net volume of approximately 48 gallons of water in it (less live rock, gravel etc.). I’m using a Jebo 955 Bio 5 in 1 Twinjet, with a submersible powerhead rated to deliver 1300 liters per hour. As with most “Made in China ” products, there is no accompanying instructions/owners manual with this filter system when I first bought it, so just followed the set up diagram printed on the box. The system works fine, water is clear and it has been running for a month now, but I still have doubts as to the correct water flow inside the tank and through the filter system. The powerhead has two outlets (with identical diameters), the first has a venturi tube with air control and outputs water with bubbles inside the tank, while the second feeds to a filter box with four compartments and directs its output back inside the tank. I noticed there is more pressure out of the first outlet as I can only see a slow flow inside the filter box. My question is:
1. I measured 0.86 gal/hr flow through the filter box , is this ok or too slow?   
<Way too slow... better to have about half the stated capacity going through the filter area>
2. The set came with four filter media,  plastic balls, ceramics, course gravel, & synthetic filter wadding . What would be the proper sequence in putting them in the four compartments?
<Plastic balls, synthetic media (needs frequent rinsing... at least weekly), ceramic, then coarse gravel. These, other three media should not be disturbed... unless they get very clogged... and then never all cleaned within the same service period. Bob Fenner>
Mario Rodriguez

Re: Jebo system circulation, filtration  9/11/05
Hello Bob,
<Mario>
Thank you so much for this vital information &  I really appreciate the very quick response.
I'll now have to figure out how to increase the filter flow rate (like maybe effectively decreasing the diameter of the other outlet by some means) to save this system and money.
<Good idea>
More power to you Bob & the rest of the crew !
Mario
<Thank you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Marine Tank Filtration Requirements  9/5/05
Dear WetWebMedia Crew,
I have a 120L (31 gallon) tank. I have just started with marine fish and wanted to check that I have the set up correct. Here are the stats.
(Size) 3 foot tank (31 gallons)
(Filtration) Fluval 304 <Should have went with the 404 but as you said, "too late now".>
(Protein Skimmer) Lee's small <Not much for efficiency but some type of skimmer is better than none.>
(Heater) Fluval 150W
(Live Rock) 30 pounds
(Fish so Far) 2x Fire Damsels
I am especially concerned for the filtration. Should I have gone with a Fluval 404? (too late now) <I would add a power head for additional water movement.  The Fluval puts out less than the recommended 10X tank volume per hour.  James (Salty Dog)>
Regards,
Peter Johnson

Bio Balls in  Wet/Dry filter, learning to use WWM  9/1/05
Hi guys. I want to say thanks for all the free advice you've given me over the last few weeks. I am a new aquarist and your site has been a godsend. I have a couple of silly questions. I'm having a problem with my nitrates (around 30 ppm).
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm...>
I have a 55 gal tank with about 45lbs of live rock in it and 2 inches of live sand. I also have a protein skimmer attached. My 15gal sump also has Bio balls in it. I was told by another hobbyist that removing my bio balls might help decrease my nitrate level. Is that true?
<... please learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM>
If I do remove the bio balls do I have to replace it with anything since I already have live rock in the display tank? Can I just leave the 'dry' space that the bio balls occupied empty - will the water trickle properly if the 'dry' space is left empty?
Separate issue. Do you recommend that I add activated carbon to the sump? If so, how often should it be replaced? How much carbon should I add to a tank this size? Does the carbon stay in the sump permanently.
I know I'm asking a lot of questions but I'll appreciate any help I can get. Thanks again.
<These issues are covered on WWM... go there. Bob Fenner>

Flow And Filtration...Not Necessarily The Same - 08/25/05
Good day Crew!!
<<Howdy!>>
Thanks for the site, the bountiful archives, and the appreciation of proper grammar.
<<You been talkin' to Bob? <G> >>
I admire and appreciate what you are doing for me, and the rest of the (would be) marine aquarium keepers out here on the world wide web.  Good work, people!
<<I/we enjoy/believe in what we do, but still...redeeming to hear...thank you.>>
Having said that, my question to you is, how many times an hour should I turn over water through my sump vs. through a closed loop system?
<<Two to three tank volumes per hour through the sump...ten or more (preferably!) tank volumes through a closed-loop.>>
I know the recommended turnover is 10x - 20x an hour, but does it all need to run through the sump where the filtration will be?
<<Nope, nor do I recommend/think this to be practical.>>
Or can I just run my water, say, 5x - 10x times an hour through my sump (and all of its various components), and the other 10x - 15x in a closed loop?
<<Could...though I still think that's more than you need going through the sump.  Less flow through the sump will be easier to plumb with less hassle/subsequent noise.>>
Is there an ideal ratio?
<<Every system/configuration is unique, but the basic flow rates I listed should work well for most.>>
I can't seem to find the sentence that says, "An aquarium should be completely filtered XX times per hour."  (Assume I would like to keep delicate and demanding species, for which flow seems to be most important.)  Naturally, more filtration is better, but I have concerns about my setup, and if I am going to be limited by flow through filtration, I would like to know now, so I can stock to accommodate it (or modify the tank to suit my needs).  
<<Flow and Filtration are two different things.  Besides, if we're talking a reef system with live rock, most of the "filtration" will be going on "in the tank" where, yes, your "flow" needs to be random, turbulent, and robust (e.g. - 10x-20x tank volume).  2x-3x tank volume through the sump to supply the skimmer and maybe some sort of chemical filtration will be just fine.>>
I recently acquired a used 125 gallon setup.  What was included was the tank, stand, and a canopy equipped w/ 3 175w MH bulbs (and room for some 72" tubes).  The tank is predrilled, in the bottom, with a 1 3/4" hole in each back corner, and of course, with overflow boxes installed (glass).  If I am correct, these holes will accommodate 1" bulkheads, both of which I plan to have drain to a 55 gallon sump.
<<yes>>
(I think I am correct that the flow out of the display through these bulkheads can be regulated by the return pump, but I am afraid that due to the small diameter of the bulkheads, even at max, I will be limited.)
<<yes again>>
By the way, what kind of flow can I expect through each of these bulkheads?  I think I read 300 gallons for return bulkheads, and 800 gallons per hour for drains.  Is this right?
<<I would plan for no more than 300-350 gph per drain to the sump.  This flow rate will ease any plumbing issues when it comes to eliminating noise, and provides some measure of safety margin in the event of a blockage.  In fact...I would recommend plumbing only one drain to the sump (approx. 300 gph submerged return pump), and use the other drain to plumb your closed loop (1500-2500 gph external pump).>>
The return will go up and over the back of the tank, as I have seen recommended several times in the archives to people in similar situations.
<<okay>>
Since this whole thing is still in the planning stages, I am hoping this input (and a lot of input found in the archives), will save me heartache and expense, as I do plan to stock only with captive propagated (hence, more expensive) species.
<<Always good to have your stocking plan before you build the system so as to tailor to the organisms needs.>>
I don't advocate loss of life or destruction of reef under any circumstances, so I am going to thoroughly do my homework to accommodate any species I consider for captivity in my home, based on what my system can accommodate.
<<Or...research/pick the species and build the system to suit...>>
I absolutely will not house an animal that would otherwise have a home, and will only house one that will be happy in my home, i.e. there is probably not an anemone in my future.
<<Very good to hear.>>
I am the same way with dogs, getting them only from the pound.
<<Admirable...but as you say...only if you have the means to provide...>>
Also, I am quite determined to do this myself, much to the dismay of the LFS owner, who would just love to come set this up for me.  However, I am afraid that he would abuse my pocketbook, and betting on my ignorance, some innocent marine animals, and I can't do it.  Besides, I like the challenge.
<<Quite within your abilities I'm sure...just be sure to stop and think, research, ask questions as you are now, and above all...take your time.>>
Thanks for all of your help and expertise that I have already made use of, and will use in the future.  I am looking forward to being an informed/conscientious marine aquarist (great book, by the way).
Sincerely concerned about adequate filtration,
Jessica Groomer
<<Please do write back in/make use of our extensive archives re tank setup/close-loops.  Regards, EricR>>

Confusion over Filtration 8/21/05
Hi, <Hello Patti>
I have a 90 gallon Oceanic tank with a sump below I am setting up with salt water.  Being a beginner, I brought a guy in the aquarium business in to set the tank up for me.  He put 90 pounds of live rock in the tank and an ASM G3 Protein skimmer in the sump.  I'm planning a fish/invertebrate population in the tank. In talking with another guy at the local fish store (he seems to know what he's talking about) he is suggesting the rock and skimmer may not be sufficient and is suggesting adding a cartridge filter along side (a Cascade 1500) with certain media (carbon) in the trays.  Do you have a view of who's right here???  Or maybe a different view? <Depending on the rock you have, the live rock should be sufficient for bio filtration.  Does your sump have a tray where you could put media into?  If so, I personally recommend Chemi Pure.  Be sure to change the filtration pads in the sump weekly if you are using them.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks!
Patti

Re: Confusion over Filtration 8/23/05
Thanks James. <You're welcome> Maybe just a few clarifications if you don't mind.  1) Not sure if I've got a place in my sump for media.  Just has the skimmer on one side and the pump on the other.  Can I put media on the sponge between the two sections?<The sponge is your filtration pad which needs to be cleaned weekly, and you can place a bag or two of Chemi Pure after the sponge.> 2) you mention filtration pads.  Not sure what they are.  Can you elaborate? <As above> 3) With regard to the canister filter the local guy recommended - do you think this is a bad idea? <Patti, you have a sponge filtration pad and the addition of one or two media bags is going to accomplish the same thing a canister filter does.  If you didn't have the sump, I'd say yes, but with it, I think you would just be wasting your money and having one more item to clean.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks again.
Patti  

Under-filtered SW? Overwhelmed?  8/16/05
This web site is great, but I believe there is too much information.
<There is no such thing>
Here's my question, I have a 55 gallon tank. I purchased a CPR BakPak 2, 6 months ago and I am running it with a Rena Filstar xp2 .  Do you believe this is adequate enough filtration and aeration for the tank?
<For what type of livestock?>
The spray bar  is breaking the water, and I have 10 pounds of live rock and live sand? What do you think I will need to  add to help stabilize its ecosystem?
Water parameters
Nitrites 0
Ammonia 0 -.1 (hard to read card)
Nitrates 15 ( can not get it less then 15 -20)
PH 8.0
Tank inhabitants
2 damsels
1 pygmy angel
2  gobies
1 saddleback butterfly
<... you could add other, more filtration, circulation, aeration... but if you're satisfied with your current maintenance, cleanliness... Bob Fenner>

System/Setup Advice - 08/16/05
WetWeb -
I inherited a 55 gal tank about 6 months ago.  It had two clowns, a pygmy Basslet, and a BioWheel 300 filter, and I have added, over time, a canister filter, 210 watts lighting, a yellow tang (mistake) <<yes>>, a green Chromis about a month ago, and recently a Dartfish.  Also a couple of frags in the last few weeks.  I think I've overloaded b/c now I'm getting a lot of buildup on the sides of the tank and the covers.
<<Remove the tang.>>
I've been researching protein skimmers and just ordered an Aqua-C in hopes to alleviate some of the buildup.
<<Excellent...great skimmers.>>
My question is, once the skimmer is added, I'm considering ditching the BioWheel altogether and relying on the canister which is a Penn Plax rated up to 70 gal.  I think the BioWheel may be responsible for the usual high levels (20 ppms) of nitrates.
<<Is likely...but the canister filter will need "weekly" service/cleaning or it too will become a problem.  If you have live rock in this system I would relegate the canister filter to chemical filtration (carbon, Poly-Filter).>>
Other current parameters:  salinity is at 1.0235.  temp 78.  pH seems to run about 8.4, nitrites and phosphates zero.  Any advice on this greatly appreciated as I'm still learning the ins  and outs of keeping a marine.  I had never even had a freshwater prior :)
<<Even experienced hobbyists have questions/need for information/reference...If you haven't yet, purchase some good books on the marine hobby.  Here's a good shortlist to begin with: Mike Paletta's "New Marine Aquarium"
Bob Fenner's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist"
John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums"
Many, many thanks.
Gerald Souder
Louisville KY
<<Kind regards, EricR>>

Ten 100 gallon saltwater setups centralized filtration 8/15/05
I am currently setting up 10-100 gallon aquariums and am hoping to run all of them off of one filtration system. Do you have any recommendations as to what types/sizes of filters or other items I may need for a healthy setup for my fish?
<Mmm, yes. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/cntfiltbiz.htm
following with the linked files you will find above... Bob Fenner>

Misc. Marine Filtration Q's, literacy, using WWM 8/3/05
First off I would like to thank you for your time in reading my questions. I am setting up a 155 bow front aquarium and am going to have 90 or more pounds of live rock, and bioballs. I have been told that in a fish only system you can produce to many nitrates by using both bioballs and live rock because of the breakdown process so I decided I needed a DSB or a plenum to take care of my problem. I would like to know which is more efficient at removing nitrates? Or if it is necessary that I use one of these methods at all?
Thank you for your time
Sincerely Brian.
<Mmm, time to refer you to WWM... these issues and much more are discussed thoroughly there... And do us a favor and learn to/use your spell-checker... Bob Fenner>

Marine Filtration 1A 8/4/05
Thank you for your time in responding to my e-mail. I checked WWM and could not find specific answers to my questions; especially the one about filtration. I understand that the plenum is good for making a replica of the natural ocean, but that's not my goal here. I just want a successful fish only system. If you could please take the time to respond to my e-mail with answers to my questions I would greatly appreciate it. Thank You.
<Uhh, read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Bob Fenner>

New marine aquarium filtration, learning to use WWM 7/30/05
Hello, I was wondering if you all could help me?
<I will try>
I have a new 75 gal tank with 75lbs live rock, and 1 inch of crushed coral and Carib-sea sand mixed in the bottom.  My question is concerning filtration.  I tried a protein skimmer, and the cup kept filling with water, and thousands of air bubbles went into the tank,
<Mmm, mis-set-up or adjusted...>
no matter how much troubleshooting I did or adjusting of air flow.  
Nothing helped, so I pitched it and got an emperor 400 deluxe.  Is this good enough along with 2 powerheads that move a total of 800 gph?
<... should be okay...>
I plan on having inverts and fish for now.  Later I will add some coral and new lights.  If this filtration is not enough do you recommend anything else.
<... please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm
and the linked files above>
Oh, and one other thing, using the emperor 400 with the bio-wheels, will this effect my live rock growth at all?
<These products and their manufacturers names are proper nouns, capitalized>
Any info would be very helpful at this point?  
thank you
<Learn to use the search tool, indices on WWM... read there. Bob Fenner>

Need opinion with Filtration/Skimmer setup 7/21/05
Hello Crew, and thanks for this very informative and helpful site.
<You're welcome - it sure helps us all>
I am starting up 58 gallon setup again. I would like your opinion on which setup you would recommend:
Setup 1:
58 Gallon Reef Ready
CPR Cy192 Bio Filter/Skimmer 400gph
Seio SuperFlow 620gph
or
Setup 2:
58 Regular    
2 Emperor 280's
AquaC Remora
I like the reef ready setup because I think it would look more "professional" to have nothing Hanging on the back. Is the Venturi style of skimming sufficient for this reef ready setup?
<You haven't told me anything at all about what you're wanting to keep, so these are going to be generalizations:  I never recommend a wet/dry filter for a reef tank.  I do highly recommend the AquaC remora, it's a great skimmer.  As for your water flow, 1 Seio or a few HOT power filters are *not* going to be enough water movement for a reef tank.  I highly recommend a closed loop manifold driven by an external pump.  If this 58 is going to be a fish only aquarium, the wet dry will work fine for you>
Thanks for any Ideas and opinions.
Steve
<Anytime - M. Maddox>

Best filtration for my situation
Hello everyone!
   I  have an equipment issue today. I have been wanting to convert one of my 30 gallon tanks into a sump for my 125 gallon display. My problems are 1. the tank is not drilled and 2.  when I set up my tank I only left a little over 4" between the tank and wall [I will blame that on my husband]
<Did he build the wall there?>
A week into cycling, after adding sand, live rock and water, I went to put on the H.O.T protein skimmer and had no room. I had no fish at the time so I emptied all the water into containers, pulled out the rock and moved it enough for the skimmer to fit.  Well I should have moved it more! I cannot fit a refugium or a CPR overflow and I now have fish so I really don't want to empty the tank. I have found the Lifereef overflow, it has a 'slim line' overflow only 3" but I read where Bob prefers the CPR. So the only options I have is to do an overflow off the side [??]or no sump! I want a sump for flow and water volume but at the same time I am scared to death if I do set one up I would end up flooding my living room. My husband is a Firefighter and has another part time job with full time hours so he doesn't want to spend his spare time on my fishies! I am pretty good at doing this type of thing with direction of course but I too am busy w/ 2 small children [20 month  and a 4 year old] Anyway I had , of course thought about using a Mag or Eheim pump and tubing to get the water to the pump and  another of the same pump for return but read that is not a good idea.
<Correct... impossible to balance>
Right now I have 2 Rena XP3 on either side of the tank with the spray bars on the sides facing each other. I have 4 Maxijet 1200 also on sides facing center. I have good movement and thought maybe I would replace the MaxiJets with stronger powerheads. I was looking at a Hagen model.
<Good products>
I had also thought since the sump seems so difficult that I might get another Rena XP3 and place the spray bar on the back [ unless it made too many bubbles then I could use the other attachment.] I want the best conditions for my
little friends and I am in need of your much valued opinion. Any advice? Please don't tell me to move my tank!!  Thanks for your help
                           Kim
<Mmm, well it seems you're aware of your choices... if going with a hang-on arrangement for getting water from the tank to the sump, use two such boxes... in case one fails... Or wait and pull the tank out a bit some time later... maybe when you're having a bunch of friends over... and drain it most of the way, leaving livestock in place... Or look forward to a future time in which you can either have this tank drilled, or replace it with one that is. Perspective... Bob Fenner>

Re: Best filtration for my situation
Hi Bob,
  Thanks for the quick reply. I have done some more reading and came across another person trying to set a sump up. He was wanting to use 1 canister filter for getting water to the sump, and another of the same for the return. M .Maddox suggested he get an overflow to get the water to the sump, and use both canisters to return the water through the spray bars.
Will this work?
<Yes, a good idea, possibility>
It would sure make my life easier if it did! I believe the LifeReef overflow I would have to get [slim-3"] has a flow rate up to 600, I think my canisters are 350gph. Let me know what you think
                    Thanks again, Kim
<If you feel uncomfortable "risking" the one overflow failing, I'd invest in, use two. Bob Fenner>

- Power Filter vs. Refugium -
I have a 20 gallon tank (24 inches in width), so space on the back is at a premium, obviously. <Sure.> Presently I have an Aqua C Remora on the back, plus an Emperor 280 power filter.  I have about 40 pounds of live rock.  Sand bed varies from 2 inches in the middle to 3.5 inches on either side.  I have a SunPaq Orbit (one 65 watt daylight, one 65 watt actinic).  Inhabitants - 2 small percula clowns (each 2 inches or less), and one small pygmy angel (1-1.5 inches). <I hope you plan to upgrade the tank size in the near future... 20 gallons isn't really suitable for the pygmy angel.> Also, several small hermit crabs, one torch coral and one small rock of green star polyps.  I may add a few other items such as polyps and mushrooms later, and perhaps a shrimp or two.    
Question - Would I be better off sticking with the power filter or ditching it for a hang-on-the-back refugium (e.g. a small one by CPR)?  I'm just curious how you folks might come down on that choice. <Given the size of the tank, the amount of rock you have... I think it's probably best to stick with the particle filtration offered by the hang on filter. If I could convince you that your money would be better spent on at least doubling the size of your tank - with 40 pounds of live rock, you have much less than 20 gallons of water... you're going to need all the filtration you can get.> Certainly there are advantages to each.  The power filter is a better way to run carbon and RowaPhos and the like (in my estimation), to take out gross particular  matter both daily and during cleaning (in addition to what comes out via siphon which alone isn't enough), more surface agitation and water movement, etc.  The primary refugium benefit in my estimation (or the one that I'd hope for primarily) would be to serve as a growing ground for algae to keep it out of the tank.  I don't see a refugium as matching most of the other power filter benefits. <In your case, neither do I.> I see the power filter in this setup as probably offering the most overall benefit, though maybe I'm wrong.  
As O'Reilly would say - "What say you?"
<I say consider a larger tank - then do both.>
Thanks for your time.
<Cheers, J -- >

Filtration...Doing It Right - 05/27/05
Hello Crew-
<Howdy!>
I was hoping to get your opinion on my current dilemma.
<Sure...I have lots of opinions.>
I have a 65g tank that is similar to an Eclipse setup with the filter integrated into the hood. I have had the tank up and running for about 5 months now and things are going OK.
<Alrighty>
I have about 75lbs of live rock and 30lbs of live sand. I also have a puffer, a snowflake eel, a coral beauty, a Humu trigger and an orange spotted goby.
<Yikes! Ok, here's my first opinion...your tank is overstocked for the long-term! Do consider/research these animals' size at maturity and plan for them accordingly. My suggestion would be to get rid of the puffer now, you don't state which specie you have but most all will quickly outgrow this tank. The trigger will also grow too large in the end so you will need to consider this as well.>
My cleaner crew consists of 15-20 crabs and snails, 1 emerald crab, two starfish and a cucumber. My only filtration is the integrated wet/dry in the hood. I also have 1 power head.
<Your fish will appreciate a bit more flow.>
I want to add a protein skimmer to my system (the Remora Pro, based on reviews from this site),
<Excellent!>
but the hood will have to be modified to accommodate the skimmer which will render the filter unusable.
<Hmm...what are the chances of adding a sump and putting a skimmer here?>
What do you think about adding a canister filter (I've seen mixed reviews on this site) to the system with the Remora skimmer? Or, do you think that I should go with the skimmer only and let the rock and sand filter the water? 
<You've got a lot of messy feeders in this tank Tony, you definitely need supplemental filtration in my opinion. I'm speculating here, but the wet/dry in the hood is probably not large enough/all that efficient to do much good and as such is a good trade-off for the skimmer. Adding canister filters is a good alternative to the wet/dry, I would go with two smaller filters rather than a single large one. Add a course filter pad before your biological media (bioballs, sintered glass, etc.) in one canister, and use a chemical media (activated carbon, poly-filter, etc.) in the other. Rinse the filter pads weekly, and use small amounts of chemical media to be exchanged (rinse poly-filters) weekly as well.>
Your thoughts and recommendations are greatly appreciated.
<Thank you for your interest.>
Thanks, Tony
<Regards, Eric R.> 

TruVu Aqua-system question
I got a 55g TruVu with built in Aquasystem from someone. I was initially considering a fish only tank, but after reading through some websites I decided to set up a system with at least some live rock. I was told that that I should modify the Aquasystem to get rid of wet/dry filtration, and also that a protein skimmer chamber in the tank is too small to house any decent skimmer for LR setup. I haven't bought any additional equipment yet, so I would really appreciate your advice on LR with fish in such a tank, since I am very new to salt water.
Thank you very much for you help. Igor. 
<Igor, my friend. You can remove the bio balls or whatever you have. As for live rock, I would get about 75lbs of it. This alone acts as your denitrification filter. Yes, you need to find a skimmer that you can incorporate into this system. Although skimmers aren't absolutely necessary, they do remove quite a bit of waste. Using a product like Chemi-Pure in one of your chambers will keep the water clean. Do a Google search on the Wet Web, keyword, "live rock" and learn more about it. James (Salty Dog)> 

Filters
Hi, I've been researching on your site for a couple of days now, and it's very awesome!!!. I'm 17 years old and on a budget with a 90g tank. I want to start a FOWLR, with only 10 small fish (not sure which ones yet), and 60-90 pounds of live rock. Right now I have a Fluval 204 and 304 canister filters (which I had for 2 years and never got to use them). My questions are:
1) If I use both my Fluval and the large HOT AquaFuge PS Refugium w/ Protein Skimmer, is that enough for filtration? 
<It should be with the live rock.>
2) Is the Protein Skimmer in the Aquafuge any good? "
<Don't know. CPR's BakPak skimmers work well and I'm sure the skimmer is made on that order.>
3) If I do get the HOT refugium, what should I place in it? (sand, Miracle Mud, small pieces of live rock) I've read some of the faq but I'm still not sure. 
<I would probably go with the Miracle Mud, but small pieces of live rock work well too.>
If you have any other suggestions rather than getting a sump please tell me. I don't want to get a sump because of the cost, and I don't mind the rinsing the foam pads of the Fluvals every other week. 
<A sump isn't necessary with your present set up. I would make sure you have about 900 gph of total flow from all pumps. You have about 440 gph from the Fluvals so that leaves you with about 500 gph to add. James (Salty Dog)>

Can Live Rock Replace Canister and Skimmer?
Hi, I've been in one of the famous shops here in UAE (United Arab Emirates) and they told me if I have Live Rock of 40% at least from the tank space, this will be enough filtration and no need for skimmer & canister filter I already have. He said that the canister filter increase the Nitrate because it contaminate the waste and this kill my live rock. 
<I agree that canister filters can increase nitrate, especially if they are not cleaned often. I also agree that the canister filter is unnecessary if enough live rock is used. The canister filter (or nitrates) will not harm live rock. Even with live rock, a skimmer is still very important for removing wastes. So, I would suggest removing the canister but keeping the skimmer.>
He also told me that no need for activated carbon because it's useless, and when I told him the carbon is to absorb the smell which come from the rock he told me if there is a bad smell coming from the rock this mean it's already dead because of the nitrate and there should not be any smell for the rock although my rock looks red and Ok. 
<Activated Carbon is not necessary, but it can help keep the water clear. It is also useful for absorbing some contaminants. Healthy live rock does not smell bad, and I am sure your live rock is fine. Nitrate DOES NOT harm live rock.>
Sorry for taking this long but I don't know what to do. Are they right in what they said, and if so should I throw away the current LR and buy another? It's very expensive here! What about the skimmer and the canister filter?  Please help me I'm confused and helpless Thanks 
<Your dealer is the one that is confused. There is nothing bad about a canister filter if it is cleaned often, but there is little benefit to it's use if you have the amount of live rock you described. Skimmers are good! Your live rock is probably fine, and you should save your money to spend at another shop! Good luck! AdamC.>

Pump/Filtration Question
First, I just want to say thanks for the helpful information I have already obtained. Second, I am setting up my new 140 g reef tank and have a couple questions regarding filtration and return pumps. I have dual overflows in my Oceanic tank, and I have a sump for each set of holes. One is a wet dry/filter and the other I planned a refugium. Does that sound like a plan that would work?
<Could>
And what should I do for a return pump on each? 
<Mmm, many choices... depends on the size plumbing/through-hulls available there... the rate of flow you'd like... this is posted on WWM under "Pump Selection">
I have read so many different opinions that I am more confused now than when I started. Do I need lower flow for the refugium and more for the wet/dry?
<Mmm, yes>
The return in probably about 3 to 4 feet on each tank. I was thinking a couple of Mag 7's or I have a Catalina 2200 that I might try it is set up I think at 685 gph, but I know nothing about it or them. Would I be better off with an Iwaki and if so would I need two? Your help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
<Take your time here... and read my young friend. All will become clearer with your cool researching. Bob Fenner who has a good friend in the trade named Ralph Posey...>

UV Q's
Hi this is Jonathan just wondering if you could Tell me what you think the right amount of U.V light Would be for my 125gal reef tank. I have had a big Problem with Ich and Marine velvet. Just like to Have your expert opinion. Now matter who I ask they All have a different story on wattage and water flow. Thanks for all your help in the past Sincerely Jonathan.
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm scroll down to UV's... read. Bob Fenner>

New System Startup (Pt. 2)
I was thinking of not going with the sump.  I already have the Magnum from previous tanks and was wondering if they would be efficient enough?
<Magnums are fine filters, but like all canister/mechanical filters, they do require regular and frequent maintenance to function at their peak.>
Do you think the Excalibur protein skimmer would be good for a hang on.
<I'm not familiar with this particular unit, though I have heard of it. Do get some fellow hobbyist's opinions on this model.>
If I was going to go the sump route I would have to buy everything.  LFS says that the tidepool2 is good up to 200 gal and good for a 600gph pump.  Its made by Marineland. Could I use that minus the bio wheel?
<I believe so. You're essentially using it as a water treatment facility. Many hobbyists even use Rubbermaid feed troughs or other suitable food grade containers for sumps!>
I don't want any wet dry filtration.  I was going to buy 7 40 pound bags of CaribSea Special Grade reef sand. Is that okay for DSB?
<Very good stuff.>
I was going to rinse the sand with tap water and then do a final rinse with RO.  Do you think I would get any contamination in the sand bed from tap water?
<Minimal, if anything...>
Do you know of a paint that I could use on the outside of the tank for the back I was hoping to go with black?
<That I'm not sure of. Do consult the tank manufacturer.>
Thanks again
<My pleasure! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Freedom Filter
Has anyone heard anything good or bad about the Freedom Filter filtration system by Freedom Aquarium Products LLC? There website is http://www.freedomaquarium.com.  Looks like a "hang on the back" all in one filtration/protein
skimmer/mechanical/chemical system. Cost is around $300.00..
<Haven't seen... neat concept... a winner if it works. You might try the larger BB's like Reefs.org... to see if others have direct experience. Bob Fenner> 

Filtration Questions (3/28/05)
Hi Steve, 
<Hello>
Thank you for your prompt reply. 
<You're welcome. Sorry this second response is delayed, but I devoted the entire weekend to my family, as I only get to see them every other week while I'm out of town on 6 months of new job training.> 
Your information has been very helpful. I don't have a sump, but in terms of the mechanical filtration, it would be a shame to do away with an Eheim 2026 canister. 
<Eheims are very well-regarded.> 
I may use it purely for circulation and use a carbon filter pad in conjunction with my Prism protein skimmer for mechanical filtration. 
<As before, canisters are great if you maintain them properly. The Prizm is another matter. It is right down there with the SeaClone in terms of reputation. Some people like them, though.> 
The carbon pad should do both mechanical and chemical in one. 
<Yes, and quite a bit of biological too.> 
Eheim have a blue filter pad and a white filter pad that I believe are also part of the mechanical filtration. Do the pads and ceramic noodles perform any biological filtration or is it only the rocks - Eheim substrate. 
<All surfaces become coated with bioactive bacteria. That's why charcoal actually does quite a bit of biofiltration--lots of surface area. Same with the noodles, bioballs, etc.> 
If not, would a filter pad provide sufficient mechanical filtration without the noodles? 
<Yes> 
Why are there so many different filter pads? 
<One of life's intriguing questions. A similar question is why are there so many OTC cold medications? I used to tell patients that the more different brands of medicine there are targeted to treating a certain symptom, the greater the likelihood that any given one does not work. This is not entirely true, though there is little evidence that OTC decongestants actually work. The fact is that there is often more than one way to accomplish the same thing, so there are many different brands and types. If one is patented, then competitors have to come up with another. I don't know the specifics of Eheim, but I just used cheap generic filter floss from Petco in my Hagen's when I had FW aquariums.> Regards, Gianni. 
<To you as well. Keep up the conscientious care for your tank and you will have success and pleasure from your tank. Steve Allen.> 

Question About Sea Clear Filtration System
Hello I have a Sea Clear system has been up for almost 2yrs. I have a lionfish, a 6" banded cat shark and a damsel fish.  Also the skimmer it came it with and a power sweep 226. I hate the skimmer and the bio balls the filtration is not that great at all. I came across yo urn site after I bought it . Anyway after searching yo urn site ( it's my bible) I have seen that people have changed their Sea Clear systems by taking out the balls and other things. I wanted to know if there were any How to do pages so I can do it. The main issue is that I would like more filtration, circulation and skimming and I have been looking around to find was of doing this. I would like to add a filter/sump underneath but the because of the way the system is built I donąt know how. 
<Anthony, without looking at it, it would be difficult for me to suggest something. I would suggest you contact Sea Clear and get their advice. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks for yo urn help 
<You're welcome><<Unfortunately these folks make fine tanks, but their integral filtration systems are puny and a pain to work on. RMF>>

New Marine Tank Set Up
Hi,
Love your site, I have a 112 gallon tank that I want to set up for marines (it housed 2 albino Oscars previously), it has an undergravel filter and a Fluval 304 external filter. The tank is not drilled so I do not think I will be able to use a sump.
<Mmm, could have it drilled... not hard to do... or even DIY... or add hang-on overflow boxes...>
I was thinking of using the existing filtration with 40-50 kg.s of live rock on top of 3-4 inches of crushed coral and coral sand.  The undergravel tubes are powered buy 2x183 gph powerheads, what do you think of this set up and would you add anything else, or would you scrap the filters?.
Thanks a lot
<I'd keep reading re your choices here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm Keep good notes! Bob Fenner> 

Refugium
Hi Bob,
<James today> 
I have a 34 gallon Rubbermaid container for a sump on a 75 gallon fish only with live rock and an Eheim Pro 11 canister filter. I would like to set up a refugium, but cannot find any info. I thought that if I put an additional smaller Rubbermaid container inside the sump this would work. The only problem may be is how to move the water thru the refugium, would the return of the protein skimmer be ok, or should I use a separate pump, or tee off the drain from the built-in overflow box? What would you do? I would like to make it as simple as possible. 
<Let's have you go to this link first Ron, and see if that helps you. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm. James (Salty Dog)>

Filter Upgrade
Thanks for all your help! 
<You're welcome> 
Now that I've found this site, I don't know what I did without it! I've been browsing around your filter FAQs and thought I would just send an email. I have a 55g Reef (1 yr old) w/ 80lbs of live rock, 2 AquaClear 110(500) filters, a Bak-Pak 2 protein skimmer, and about an 2" of sand. I've decided to upgrade my sand bed to 3-4" (fine aragonite)...
<If you do this, you will need sand stirring critters to keep that deep of a sand bed stirred up to prevent hydrogen sulphide gas from forming.> 
... and as one of my AquaClears seems to be going bad, I'm going to either replace it or upgrade my filter set-up as well. Do you have any recommendations? A wet-dry filter? Refugium? Hope I'm not a pest. :) 
<John, with the live rock you have, acting as a biological filter, I think your best bet would be a refugium. Macro algae can also be grown in there thus competing with the nuisance algae for food. CPR makes some nice hang-ons with a new model that includes a protein skimmer. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks in advance
<You're welcome> 

Filter Upgrade
Thanks for the quick reply!  I had one follow up question. Will I be OK as far as flow-rate? I believe I'm around 20X right now, will the refugium (in place of one of the AquaClear 500's) keep up with that? 
<John, as long as you have at least 10x, it should be plenty. James (Salty Dog)>

Over filtering and aerating
Hello, and thanks for all the advice I have taken from your archives over the last 6 months!!
<Hi Frank. Thanks for researching before writing in and glad our site can help.>
I currently have a 20 gallon marine tank with 15lbs of live rock, 1 Clarkii clown, 1 false percula and a saffron blue damsel. All parameters I currently test for are normal ( i.e. ammonia 0, nitrite 0, pH 8.3,nitrate 0, SG 1.022 and temp 78 degrees) and I perform a 15% water change weekly. 
<Ok, sounds good so far...> 
The tank has been running for 6 weeks 
<Has the tank finished cycling? That isn't very long. but do keep an eye on those water tests to be sure, as your canister filter might help keep levels in check during the process.>
My main question concerns my external canister filter (Fluval 404), I use this as a means of filtration and a power head. I have been currently turning the flow rate up to max after feeding in order to clear debris and provide a load of gas exchange and water movement, the water gets quite bubbly all over the face of the tank.
<lots of air bubbles are not good all over the tank, you might want to keep that down.> 
The fish all swim to the top of the tank and swim against the current, so my question really is, can you overdo the water movement and aeration??
<Yes, if your tank is filled with tons of bubbles then your fish and corals can get sick and or die from the micro- bubbles. as for water movement. You can have too much if it pushes the fish into the glass. as long as there are places to go without strong currents that seems ok. However it's a lot better to have a turbid flow (water mixing [?] from all directions) then a flow from one side as it helps keep things stirred up and its more like the ocean. Maybe build a manifold out of PVC (read Anthony Calfo's no more powerheads article on the FAQ's) to better distribute the flow. but the massive filtration is a plus for a small tank. Be sure to clean the filters in the canister weekly as well in old tank water.>
Another quick question, should I be testing for calcium or adding any other trace elements?
<Yes if you want your live rock or corals to grow well, though the makeup saltwater has most trace elements besides calcium.>
Thanks for any help you can give. Frank from Glasgow, Scotland
<Good luck and hope this helps>
<Justin (Jager)>

- New Tank Set-up -
I'm setting up a new 54 gallon corner tank SW FOWLR. I was originally going to get the built-in overflow tank with a wet/dry sump filter and protein skimmer in sump and using live rock. In doing more reading, it seems that the wet/dry filter with sump is not necessary and is just a convenient place to put the protein skimmer. Am I better off sticking with this setup or should I consider using a canister filter and a hang-on type protein skimmer? 
<I ran a 54 corner for many years with only a simple sump and a protein skimmer... think this is the best way to go... simple is better.>
Does the built-in overflow type tank provide better circulation, or is using the canister filter just as good? 
<Doesn't really affect circulation per se, but does allow you to use any size return pump you want. Is really an apples to oranges comparison. Canister filters have their use, but they need regular maintenance or their flow rate is diminished.>
Also, I guess using the canister filter instead of the overflow would be quieter. 
<It may be, but this isn't a good enough reason for me to not use a corner overflow.> But then I'd have the added noise of the hang-on protein skimmer. 
<Will probably make the same amount of noise regardless of where it's installed.>
Any direction would be appreciated.
Mitch
<Cheers, J -- >

Changing to a wet/dry filter
I am switching from a hang on filter with a bio wheel to a wet/dry filter. How long should I leave the old filter in place until the new filter develops the bacteria needed to sustain the tank? 
<Chris, just put the bio-wheel itself in your sump for a couple weeks. James (Salty Dog)><<I'd overlap the filters for a few weeks. RMF>>

DAS aquarium modification
Thank you for such a comprehensive and professional resource.  This is a great knowledge base for responsible and  rewarding reef-keeping.  I have searched extensively through the WWM Articles and associated FAQs, but to no avail.
I have a DAS H39 60 gallon system.  The DAS has an integrated filtration system which I have grown to hate!
<Am familiar with their puny, hard to work on...>
The integrated skimmer is inadequate (air bubble size, water column height/contact, and water movement) and provides sub-par water contact for biological filtration.
<Agreed>
I feel this would be an ideal setup for a freshwater system but wholly inadequate for the saltwater reef.
<Not even that great for FW... too little circulation, filtration>
I have noticed several posts throughout the WWM site referring to removing the overflow box and filtration system on the DAS tanks.  From what I can gather through the internet and looking at the tank, it is difficult to remove this overflow "box".  Any ideas or references on how to remove it so I can build a more ideal filtration/circulation system incorporating a refugium, closed loop and skimmer?  Thanks again for the help and Happy Friday.
<I don't see such in a cursory search on the Net... you are faced with a series of choices... from adding filtration over the back (via hang on technology) to applying constant level boxes and sumps below, rigging a sump/refugium above and pumping up to it, having gravity return the water... to having the tank drilled for overflows (the latter of course requiring it be drained). Bob Fenner>

Accentuate The Positive, Eliminate The...Waste Products?
Hi.
<Hey there! Scott F. with you today!>
I have a large Queen Trigger. I've been watching him for a while now. Is  it normal for him to let out waste frequently?
<If he has been eating a lot, all of that digestive product has to go somewhere!>
He ate 2 goldfish earlier in the day, but he lets out waste, then about 5 minutes later he'll do it again, and so on...I think its been about 4 times so far within an hour...Thank You
<Well, without getting too graphic, I'd just chalk it up to his eating habits. Like people, fish eliminate wastes as they metabolize foods. These eliminations can occur at any time; fishes can run into troubles, too, being constipated, etc. By the way, do consider using foods of "marine" origin, as goldfish really do not provide a complete nutrition package for marine fishes, and may be lacking in some essential fatty acids, etc. Unless you're seeing lots of long, stringy feces (possible indication of internal parasites or other problems), or if the fish is in distress, I'd not get too worked up about the fish's elimination habits. In fact, I'd be a lot more concerned if the fish had trouble eliminating waste! Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

Mechanical/Biological Filter
After a bit of advice on my filter situation. I have a 60 Gallon set-up with some soft corals and fish. The question I have is about my filter setup. At the moment I have two external Eheim filters. One I am using as a Biological filter (which I don't clean), which is simply full of the EhfiSubstrate. The other filter I am using as a mechanical filter, this filter houses a course filter pad and approx an inch thick layer of wool. The questions I have are.
Would you consider this to be the most beneficial setup?<No> if not what way would you go.<Personally, I would go with a hang on refugium or sump model or a wet/dry filter with no bioballs and use a polyester filtering pad (changed weekly, no rinsing)> Also I rinse the pad and wool every week and change the wool every other week, at the same time I do water changes (around 10%) I rinse the pad/wool in tank water when I do the water change.<I would replace the wool weekly, no rinsing.  This helps in reducing your nitrate level.> The other question is. If I rinse the pad/wool in tank water will it turn this filter into another Biological filter?<It can> Should I rinse the wool/pad in RO water to kill the bacteria?<Again, I would replace the pads weekly.> Hope you can help as I have noticed my Nitrates have raised to around 30ppm, I am doing water changes every other day to try and reduced this. <I would consider the purchase of a protein skimmer to aid in the nitrate problem.> All the best Daniel and please keep up this excellent site, I have already
learnt so much. <Thank you Daniel.  James (Salty Dog)>

Pump selection, plumbing, using WWM
Hi to the crew- I actually have a "crew" listing in my hotmail account for you guys... it's just easier.
<Yikes>
So I've left the tank of my college years- a 150 gal reef tank I built for the biology building.
<Man! I couldn't afford a ten gallon guppy tank in my years...>
And now have started over on my own tank. It's been up for a few months now, cycled appropriately until my ammonia, nitrite/ate were down to zeros. From what I've gotten in feedback, it's a not too common set up.
55 gallon tank, holding only 30ish g. The upper space is empty to accommodate a 150w MH de bulb at 10k, and to let my dozen mangroves grow up.
<As in mangrove trees? There are some 53 families of plants... but mostly what folks keep (Avicenna) grow very large...>
This way, my MH fixture fits in the hood, and I have enough space so I don't simmer my tank- and with less water, the light is "more powerful".
<Okay>
Right now, a pair of maroon clowns, both about an inch (the one from the college tank is about 6 inches now.. she's a beast and the same size as our yellow tang. Maybe she has encouragement from the 2 foot across, 4 year old green carpet anemone...) and a colt coral. My plan is to understock with fish, heavy on corals-hardies, a distance from the colt and each other. all in the hopes of keeping nitrates as small as possible.  So, filtration has been live rock 35/40lbs, a shallow sand bed and a Fluval 304 filter stuffed with live rock for bacteria purposes. So...the plan is that ASAP, I upgrade/add to the filter and put in a sump/fuge and skimmer. Return pump suggestions? The standards are Mag drive, Iwaki, Rio- but gph?
<Pump selection and circulation is posted on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm >
wasn't sure of an acceptable rate. The 150 tank had a little giant 650gph, but this is a much smaller tank-
I would estimate four feet from bottom of sump to back into tank. Also, because of this weird set up- the water level is a good 8-10 inches from the top of the tank. I see no problem with a longer U-tube for an overflow box- do you? I figure a siphon can be used to drain a tank, so halfway shouldn't be a problem.
<Trouble... yes... Also addressed on WWM and some alternatives suggested... When, where in doubt, keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: pump selection
Back to Bob F. FYI, the fun part of doing the 150g tank for Roanoke College was that I designed/built what I wanted, and they paid for it all. I had no money to speak of...
<Ah... I do remember those days... wait, what is today, Wednesday?>
The hard part was leaving it all behind when I graduated...I was going to send an email back because I found the faq's on pumps/siphons right after sending. sorry- but thanks for all the great service over the years. Oh, the mangrove plan is a long term one. In the future when I'm old enough-and financially secure enough-I want to do a large indoor pond/lagoon like Anthony showed in the magazine- so if I can keep these trees alive, I'll have the adult ones that I want. I'm thinking a similar thing if I can keep corals alive for 20+ years...a far shot, but kind of a living heritage to pass down. We have a jade plant from my ancient relatives that's about 200 hundred years old that we each have a cutting of.
<Neat>
( I did a lot of work with Historic trees in college- growing saplings from cuttings of the last tree planted by Johnny Appleseed, the family tree of Martin Luther King, Jefferson's cherry trees that he planted himself...)
<Ahh, and I too grow a few trees that have been similarly de-grafted... mainly Persica americana. Bob Fenner>

Bigger Skimmer/Smaller Refugium? (A Trade Off!)
I have learned a great deal from your website and thank you so much for offering your invaluable experience and expertise to aquarium hobbyists everywhere. 
You also have more patience that anyone should judging by the repeat questions you get and happily answer.
<Thanks much for the kind words. we really love doing this and hope that it is of use to our fellow hobbyists! Scott F. here today!>
I have looked in the forums and hopefully my question is specific enough to not classify as a repeat. This is my first post so be gentle. Whew, apologizing upfront JIC...
<No need to do that, I assure you!>
Anyway, I have a 65 Gallon show tank (not good) because it is tall and only 36" long. I have 80 lbs of live rock, 40# live sand, a Sea Clone 100 skimmer in the sump, a 200W heater, Coralife power compacts with 2 96 watt bulbs and Lunar lights, 2 Maxi jet 1200s pushing water around inside the tank, and a Mag 5 through a SQWD returning water from the sump to the main tank. Livestock consists of 2 Black Percula clowns, several Mushroom Corals, a Toadstool Mushroom, several Ricordea, a polyp colony, a feather duster, and a cleanup crew.
<Sounds like an interesting mix. Your setup sounds pretty cool!>
Okay, there is the background. I plan to replace my sump (made from my old trickle filter) with a refugium. Due to the limited size of my cabinet, I am getting a 24L X 12W X 14 H refugium that I will have the option of where to put the dividers. I apologize for being so long winded but I want to provide you with as much information as I could.
<No problem, thanks>
Okay, finally to my questions- another skimmer question for you. I like the Euro Reef based on the chatter I have seen here and was planning to get the ASM G-1X but am worried about the footprint (8 ˝ X 11) and how much room it will take up in my small refugium. With the skimmer box and return pump box dividers installed, I will only have about 10 or 11 inches left for the refugium. Based on your superior intellect and knowledge of the game (sucking up here)
<You talkin' about me? I didn't think so! :) >
Will there be sufficient room for an effective refugium or should I go with an Aqua Urchin Pro (footprint of 8 " x 3.25") and gain 5 more inches of refugium space.
<Hmm...sounds about right. I'm wondering, however, if the extra 5 inches of "floor space" is really going to result in a net advantage over using the larger skimmer in there. I think that these are both outstanding skimmers, but the ASM is a remarkably productive skimmer for the cost. If it were me, I'd accept the larger footprint of the ASM as a trade off.>
Also, based on my setup, are there any other changes you would recommend?
<Actually, the whole thing sounds pretty nice. I like the use of the SCWD to get some random current in there. Really sounds like a nice tank with neat coral that will really spread wonderfully given time, care and enough space.>
Water parameters are good with the exception of the nitrates which I have not been able to get down below 10ppm yet (hence the refugium).
<A refugium can help process excess nutrients if you utilize some macroalgae and harvest it regularly, thus removing it from the system altogether.>
I follow your advice and do 5% water changes twice a week but only started doing those 2 weeks ago when I read the post where you advised this.
<It's a really good habit to develop, IMO. It is relatively painless (I mean 3.25 gallons twice a week in your tank is easy!), and can help dilute some of the nutrients in your system before they have a chance to accumulate. It's easy on your tank's inhabitants, too. With good skimming, regular small water changes, and perhaps a deeper sand bed, you will hopefully see the nitrate trend down over the coming weeks and months. Keep at it!>
Thanks in advance, Mike Henry
<A pleasure, Mike! Sounds like you're doing great there, and the future looks bright for your system! Enjoy! Regards, Scott F.>

- Filtration Questions -
Hey - thanks for all the help and knowledge. - I have a few questions. 
1. Do you think it would be worth it to, if I had an extra Aquaclear Hang on the Back Filter, to buy bio Balls and a baggy and make my own type of bio-filter? 
<You could... don't think it would do any harm... add to circulation.> 
2. Someone at the LFS said that the protein removed from the water by a protein skimmer, is not responsible for Ammonia, and that the ammonia in water is directly, and (here's the kicker), only from what fish give off from their gills and feces. 
<Well... he's right about the fish producing ammonia, but the skimmer does remove some compounds that, if allowed to stay in the water would eventually degrade into nitrogenous wastes.> 
He also had just sold a buddy of mine a Fluval 400 for a 100 gallon salt tank, fish only, display. 3. Does putting powerheads in the middle or lower regions of a tank deter fish from being able to sleep at night? 
<Don't think so.>  
Thank you so very much for your help. I have visited all your sponsors and am glad for it. - Ishan
<Cheers, J -- > 

Filtration on Saltwater and Planted tanks
Hi to all!!
Great website- I have found tons of useful info. I have to separate questions regarding two different tanks (sorry if I should have done to separate emails).
First, I have a 125 gallon tank that is in the process of cycling. The ammonia is almost at zero and the nitrites and nitrates are still high. I have the diatom process starting in the past few days. I have the AquaClear Pro 150 wet/dry system with pre-filter and built in protein skimmer. The unit is powered by a Eheim 1260 pump. I also have 3 powerheads (2 Zoo Meds Power Sweep 228 and a Maxi-Jet 1200).
<Hello Karen. I don't believe you will like your power sweep before long. The gears in these things are almost like watch gears, will get jammed from debris going through them, you'll be cleaning this quite a bit> I have a combination of Seaflor special grade reef sand, Arag-Alive special grade and 40 lbs of live sand to equal a depth of 3 inches. I also have 165 lbs of live rock. For lighting I have an Orbit CF Lunar Light with 2 96 watt dual actinic and 2 96 watt dual daylight and 6 lunar lights 
<You are a little weak on lighting if you plan on keeping corals/anemones. Your at 3 watts/gallon and need to be up around 4-5 watts/gallon>
After reading about the wet/dry filters and their high nitrate capabilities I am not sure I want to stick with this filter. If I keep it and take the bio balls out do I need to take the foam block out of the sump? <Leave the foam block but clean it weekly> 
I do remember that you have said to take the filter pad out also. I think I also recall that you had said something about adding Ehfimech to the sump to rid of excess nitrates, is this correct and if I was to add some live sand in the sump would I just add the media on top of it?
<To add live sand to a sump, the unit needs to be designed for it, such as a refugium, or you will need to create a baffle of some kind to prevent the sand from being sucked up. Live sand will help reduce nitrates but get at the root of the problem. If the system is in balance you should not have excessive nitrates unless your system is overstocked, you overfeed, do not do weekly water changes etc> 
My protein skimmer is working great, but was wondering if it would benefit if I added another one to the system or if it would make that much of a difference? 
<You can't have too much protein skimming, and sure it will help> 
I also have an Eheim Pro II 2028 that I am not using right now. Would I benefit by adding this filter to my tank in addition to my wet/dry or could I run my tank with just this canister filter plus a skimmer without any reduction in filtration- what would you do? 
<I would use the Eheim with Chemi-Pure to aid in waste removal. Chemi-Pure has a very low phosphate content in their carbon plus the added benefit of two ion exchange resins and two scavenger resins.> 
My other question has to do with my 75 gallon plant/ rainbowfish tank. I have the dreaded Eheim wet/dry filtration on it. I know you guys dislike this filter for saltwater tanks- does the same go for freshwater? Would it be better to put my Eheim 2028 on this tank? I know that this filter does not have much of a carbon pad but if I ran it with the pad in there continuously would that take all the plant nutrients out of the water? I started out with fluorite as the substrate, but I am disappointed. I rinsed it out many many times and it still causes cloudiness in my tank if it is stirred up. I was thinking about replacing it with EcoComplete, any thoughts on this product? I also have the deluxe fully-automatic CO2 system with this tank..
<Karen, it sounds like you're serious about plants so search the wet web for freshwater plants for some useful info along with the Q&A at Drs. Foster & Smith. James (Salty Dog)> Sorry about the two separate questions and thanks for your time.  Karen 

CPR Bak-Pak2
In your opinion, if I install a CPR Bak-Pak 2 hang on skimmer/biological filter on my 55 gallon, and replace my AMiracle hang on wet/dry trickle filter (with built-in protein skimmer that doesn't work)  with either a Fluval 404 or Eheim 2206 Canister filter, will I have enough mechanical and biological filtration? 
<For? What sorts of livestock, purpose?>
Or would I be better off leaving the A-Miracle wet/dry, removing the Whisper, and adding the Aqua-C remora protein skimmer?
<Depends...>
Can I run a canister AND wet/dry?
<Yes>
I do have one other power head just for extra water circulation. The tank has about 3 inches of a crushed coral/sand , about 12 lbs of live rock (which I'll increase substantially once I get my lighting situation upgraded.....thinking about using a Jebo 4X 55 watt high compact), and 
1 clown fish (about 3 inches) 
1 bi color Pseudochromis
  2 blue damsels
1 feather duster
2 small hermits
1 small red Coris wrasse (about 3 inches)
1 algae blenny
The tank has been up and running about a year. All inhabitants except the wrasse and blenny have been in for at least 8 months. The wrasse and blenny were added about 3 weeks ago. All seem happy and healthy, at least to this point. The live rock seems to be struggling though, likely due to poor lighting (a single 40 watt 50/50 fluorescent) 
Ammonia is 0ppm
Nitrite is 0
pH 8.2
SG is 1.018 (I had been keeping it low because the LFS said it would help avoid problems with parasites, but you have already advised me to increase substantially, to the 1.022 - 1.025 range)
Nitrates are about 40 ppm, but sometimes go as high as 60 (brought down by water changes of course. I do a 10% water change weekly now, as opposed to a 30% change once per month).
I'm still new at this game, but trying, as everyone does, to find the right combination of filtration and lighting.
<Sounds good>
Finally, if I do go with the Jebo power compact I mentioned above (which comes with 2 10,000k daylight at 2 actinic), will that be enough to add any anemones at some point?  Keep up the good work!!
<Yes... some species, with slow/er growth. Bob Fenner>

Re: Novice marine aquarist
  Thanks again for the advice. Best source of Marine aquarium help and advice that I've come across.  I'll definitely look into the new protein skimmer, and I'll continue to add live rock. At what point though, if at all, do I remove the bio balls?
<When you feel comfortable with the nitrification you otherwise have. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm
and the other Related FAQs (linked above)>
With water changes, I've been able to keep nitrates to about 40 - 60 ppm. I know it's still too high, and some articles suggest that bio balls and/or other mechanical filtration devices can act as nitrate factories.
<They can, usually do.>
In that regard, how often do I clean or replace the filter pads on the wet/dry filter (they go from white to brown in just a week or so), and on the Whisper dual cartridge filter (with carbon in the cartridges)?
<Please search (there's a Google tool on the homepage and indices) WetWebMedia.com re>
Finally, (and I hope I haven't asked too many questions already),
<No, just ones that are better answered (as they lead to other related, useful input) on WWM>
once I have things more stabilized, are an algae blenny and red Coris wrasse compatible with the system and tank inhabitants I already have.
<Likely so... the Coris if it starts small (under four inches)>
My son wants to add these two, as he saw then in the LFS, and loved how active /comical they were.  I look forward to your response, as always. Your advice has kept me from giving up hope on more than one occasion!
<Bob Fenner>

Marine filtration quandaries
Hello there,<Hello KR> here is my current situation. The more informed I get, the  more I am beginning to feel lost. I have a 58 gallon saltwater with 80 pounds of live rock,<good start> established about 6 mo.s now, ocellaris and lawnmower blenny, misc.   inverts, Zoanthus etc. I had decided that a sump would be a great idea for the  overall look of the tank so I initially set one up. I didn't have a drilled tank  so I got a continuous overflow (here's where it starts)<some people do not size their overflow with the return pump they are using which leads to siphon problems> which as I read more and  more seems like a bad idea. First, why is this? Next I have the overflow piped  directly into my emperor 400<not a good idea> which then empties into the 10gal sump where I have  a SeaClone skimmer (again, found out these are terrible post hoc). I am now  having hair algae issues to which it was recommended I get a phosphate remover  (done) and up the skimming (not really possible with this sucker). So now I am  wondering if I should get a Euro Reef skimmer and dump the sump altogether or  what?? It seems the more I read the more contrary and confused info I get and I  know you guys are geniuses. Anyway if I do go hang on, what's a good option for  the skimmer or what type do you recommend? <A sump isn't absolutely necessary but it certainly adds to the overall health of the tank.  It greatly increases the oxygen level in the tank and reduces CO2.  Ten percent weekly water changes are also the norm. The AquaC Remora hang on would be a good choice for your size tank.  James (Salty Dog)> Thanks
for the help...
KR

Re: Sump Question
Thanks so much.<You're welcome> I am glad my plan is up to specs, so to speak. The local LFS ppl seemed to think it would work. One tried really hard to push the Ecosystem instead of a regular refugium...I may consider it, but I don't really think there would be any clear advantage over a regular one with live sand, with proper trace element and supplement additions.
Here is the LAST last question. The part I left out was mechanical filtration. I have had 2 different things suggested. The first was to periodically utilize a HOT Magnum to first vac out detritus, and then to run reef carbon for a few days.<The good thing about the HOT Magnum Pro is that it comes with a gravel/substrate cleaning attachment.  The bad thing is that the media canister cannot hold media like Chemi-Pure.  Most carbons do contain phosphate regardless of what they tell you.  Part of the processing system is a phosphoric acid rinse.  I feel personally that Chemi-Pure is one of the few carbon based resins where the phosphate content is extremely low. I have switched to activated carbons only to see an increased growth of algae.> The other was to run a Fluval canister constantly, with only the foam (with weekly rinsings, monthly changings) and some resins,<I like this idea better.  With a Fluval or Filstar (Rena) you can used media such as Chemi-Pure or Bio-Chem Sorb.  Incidentally, Drs. Foster & Smith has a great sale right now on the Rena Filstars.  I believe the XP-1 can be had for around $57.00.  These sell at LFS's for around $130.00.> also with regular changes<10% weekly ideal and recommended> to keep it from "going biological." My instincts tell me to run the Fluval with occasional periods of reef carbon use constantly (nice water polishing and water movement, very little space taken up) & to use the vac feature of the HOT Magnum periodically as well. Would you agree? <Yes, if money is no object, go with both.  James (Salty Dog)
Now, I'm set, and pretty much awaiting equipment on the UPS truck. Thanks again.
Bill

Minor problems with Marine Tank
I have spent many hours reviewing all the massive amounts of data on your site concerning marine tank setups, but have not really been able to address my problems. I have a 29 gallon setup. not stocked that full.
I have about 30 Lbs of live rock, 1 tomato clown, 1 yellow tail damsel, 1 3 stripe damsel,<Hello Jeremy.  That is about all the fish you want to put in that 29> 1 Condylactis anemone and 1 feather duster. I use 5 in 1 test strips (don't know if this is good or not) My test parameters are as follows: PH 8.0, ppm TOTAL Alkalinity/Buffering capacity 250,<what is the dKH number?>
Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0, and Nitrate 200+. There lies the problem (high Nitrate). I use a Fluval canister filter made to handle up to 40 gallons and 1 power head. I have a crushed coral substrate. I recently lost a Sebae anemone when it ran into my