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FAQs on Marine Filtration
Trouble/Fixing
Related Articles: Marine
Filtration, Marine Aquarium
Filtration, by Adam Cesnales, Central
Filtration Systems,
Related FAQs: Marine Filtration 1,
Marine
Filtration 2, Marine Filtration
3, Marine Filtration 4,
Marine Filtration 5, Marine Filtration 6, Marine Filtration 7, Marine Filtration 8, Marine Filtration 9, Marine Filtration 10, Marine Filtration 11, Marine Filtration 12, & FAQs on Marine
Filtration: Designs, Installation, Maintenance, Brands/Manufacturers, DIY, & By Type of System:
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Filtration, FOWLR Set-Ups, Reef Tank Setups, Reef Filtration,
Small Tank Setups, Large System
Filtration/Circulation/Aeration, & By Aspect and
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Filtration, Denitrification/Denitrifiers,
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DSBs, Plenums, Algal Filtration, Mech.:
Marine Mechanical Filtration,
Power Filters, Outside Power Filters, Canister, Cartridge Filters,
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Filters, Wet-Dry Filters, Phys.:
Ultraviolet Sterilizers, Ozone, To Skim or Not to Skim, Best Skimmer FAQs, Chem.: Nutrient Control
and Export, Chemical Filtrants (e.g. Polyfilter, Chemipure,
Purigen), Carbon, Mud/Algal Filtration ,
Phony: Magnetic
Field Filtration, & Troubles: Bubbles, Noise,
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Cloudy Water-Clear Solution? Dear piscatorial
guardians: <Wow- Cool title! You can just call me Scott,
however!> I am baffled with the abovementioned subject. I've
done everything to the best of my knowledge/experience but am still
having problems with hazy waters. I installed the AquaC Remora per your
recommendation last week and the very next day, the water looked crisp.
Then after a few days, the haziness seems to return. I also had this
problem prior to installing the skimmer thinking that it was excess
DOC's but that should not be the case anymore as the skimmer is
producing a healthy (euphemism here :)) amount of skimmate daily.
<The good skimmate production is important- at least you're
removing much of the dissolved organics present in the water>
HARDWARE: 1. 46G Oceanic bowfront F.O. tank - 4 months old 2. Rio 1700
powerhead - 611GPH 3. AquaC Remora w/Rio 800 4. Hang-over the back
Power-Filter w/activated carbon - dual spillway <Do change the
carbon regularly> 5. 200 Watt Titanium heater LIVESTOCK: 1.
Chrysiptera cyanea - pair 2. Chrysiptera hemicyanea 3. Rhinecanthus
aculeatus 4. Canthigaster Solandri 5. Cirrhitichthys falco 6.
Sphaeramia nematoptera - pair 7. Hermit Crabs (unknown sp.) - 3"
pair WATER: 1. pH 8.0 - 8.2 2. SPG 1.023 3. NH4 - 0 4. N03 - 0 5. N04 -
5 ppm 6. TEMP - 80-82 F 7. RO/DI water 8. Instant Ocean Salt <Your
water parameters seem in line!> OTHER: 1. 2" Carib Sea
Aragonite 2. Various dead coral e.g. Blue Ridge, Cats Paw, Sea Fan for
decor. 3. Food - SF Bay Brine shrimp w/Zoecon (weekly soak), OSI Marine
Flakes, Hikari Freeze Dried Brine Shrimp, chopped shrimp/scallop
(occasionally) 4. Photoperiod - 6 hours I was repeatedly told of a
putative bacteria bloom but no reason as to why it occurs. And it can
be happening sporadically can it? I've also tried adding Kent's
Pro-Clear but to no avail, so it's not any macro free-floating
organics. <You mean "micro organics"?> Is this problem
indelible? If I could only locate it's provenance... Please advice
and thanks in advance. BC <Well, I'm thinking that it
could be anything from a bloom of free-floating algae to some very fine
particulate stirred up by your trigger or your puffer...Could even be
microbubbles getting in somewhere through the plumbing. It seems to me
that your water parameters are fine, and the skimmer is doing it's
job. I'd consider a few possible "solutions". The first
would be to utilize a "micron filter sock" or pad somewhere
in the system to remove some of this fine particulate. The other
thought (and unfortunately, it's more expensive) would be to
incorporate a U/V sterilizer in your system's plumbing
configuration...Check all possibilities and don't give
up...Regards, Scott F>
Help! (Tossed the nitrate generating mechanical media
in the wet dry...) bob, Steve, Anthony, Jason!, little error just
made, I had discussed my nitrates with you guys (mainly Anthony and
Steve), I have a well stocked 130g tank,160 pounds of live rockiness
tang, queen angel, blue tang, red Coris wrasse, lionfish (all 4
inchers), Picasso trigger, tomato clown (2 inchers) and a snowflake eel
(7 inch), I have a good skimmer, and a wet/dry, the tank is around 8
months old, all fine except for the nitrates, I mentioned that I had a
large floss on top of the bio balls in the sump which I was told never
to change not by you guys), Steve mentioned he didn't like having
this in the main section of the wet/dry, in the first tray I have floss
which I change regularly, and rotate weekly a phosphate pad and carbon,
I just did a 20g water change, and removed the floss I had over the
balls, now my tank is a milky cloud, an obvious bacteria bloom which I
kind of was hoping wouldn't happen, you thoughts on what to expect
now?, should I worry?, anything I should prepare for?, thanks guys, I
appreciate it.....riot.... <This too shall clear... as a matter of
fact, what is going on is a sort of "changing of the guard"
and your system will be cleaner, and much less nitrate-plagued soon...
I'd just do your regular maintenance and wait. Bob Fenner>
Re: help! (Wet dry to sump to refugium to?) thanks
bob, if in my situation, what would you do as for filtration?, keep the
main tray with floss and carbons, and leave the bio balls in the main
section?, remove the bio balls and replace with something else?, I
highly respect your opinions, your site is the best on the net, hands
down..... <I would remove the bio-balls and any other wet-dry or
mechanical media here... and convert this "box" to a sump...
in the way of a refugium if you have the interest. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm and the associated FAQs files
(there's a bunch!). Bob Fenner>
Filtration Question/Problem Hi Bob, I have a 72
gal bow front marine aquarium. It is a fish only tank with sand and
Tufa rock. I have 2 hang-on type wet/dry trickle filters, AquaC Remora
Pro protein skimmer, UV sterilizer and a powerhead for circulation.
Lighting is 2 standard fluorescent tubes. 1 - Hagen Power-Glo 48"
40w T10 ( Lumens 2200, Lux 180, Kelvin 18000K) The other is a Hagen
Marine-Glo 48" 40w T10 Actinic Blue (Lux 105) <This isn't
much light> Live Stock is: Panther Grouper, Snowflake Moray, Clown
Trigger, Yellow Tang, Blueface Angel (juv), 4 Damsels and a FFExpress
cleanup crew. Every 4 or 5 days I measure a slight trace of ammonia (.2
or less) <Yikes... this is a bunch of fish... and will be way too
much soon> - it comes and goes. The fish do not show any signs of
stress. I suspect that my wet/dry filter is not adequate (too small
maybe)!!! So I'm thinking of upgrading to a larger sump type
wet/dry system. Do you think this is the right way to go?
<It's one way to go... please read over the "Marine
Filtration" sections and FAQs stored on our site:
www.WetWebMedia.com for more input> If so, which size and type would
you suggest if any? This being a $300-$400 investment, would it be
better to spend that $$$$ and stock the tank with live rock
instead? <A better choice yes... but you will have to reduce
the bioload of fishes at any length> If so, what type of rock and
how should I introduce the rock into an established tank so as not to
risk going through another cycle? <See the sections on the WWM site
re this...> Thanks always for your help. Ed <Much more to chat
over my friend. Bob Fenner>
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