Filtration question...s   11/19/06
I have been reading over your site and have a couple questions about the filtration. I read two Q&A's similar to my own- having 2 canisters in a FOWLR and heavy bio-load. One suggested a sump to replace the canisters and not an addition of a fluidized bed filter, while the other stated if the canisters were kept a fluidized bed filter would be beneficial. I realize not everyone recommends the same, but what would be the better choice?
<The sump is the route I would go>
Now for my question- I would like to try the sump filter. Can you tell me what the difference is between the u-tube and the continuous siphon overflow is and which would be a better choice?
<Mmm, posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/overfloboxfaqs.htm
and the linked FAQs files above... that I'd like to get to sorting... I'd avoid overflows period if easily possible... go with drilled through-puts... Continuous overflows though, to answer the question, are by and large better...>
Would the 300gph w/3/4 bulkhead be sufficient on a 75 gallon or would you recommend more?
<... 3/4 inch fittings should be avoided as overflows period... too likely to "fail"...>
(my tank is not drilled) Can you tell me if I am in the right flow with my sump?
<Is posted on WWM... use the indices and/or search tool please>
The tank I have for a sump is 24x10x12. My first chamber being for the heater and Aqua C Remora Pro skimmer, the middle chamber being for some live rock and sand (is a light needed?),
<Is better, if using photosynthetic life... e.g. macroalgae, LR...>
and the last chamber being for the return pump. I'm not sure of the size return pump, could you recommend one?
<... posted>
It has to be at least the amount of your overflows correct?
<...? At most>
Would it be advised to put the activated carbon in the sump maybe in the first divider and take away the canisters?
<I would avoid using canister filters/filtration on almost all marine systems on a permanent basis... too much maintenance, likelihood of anomalies>
Can a powerhead or spray bar be put on the return line?
<Yes>
I was also thinking of maybe putting 2 or 3 powerheads in the main tank for circulation would this be beneficial?
<... posted...>
My concern is also about a power outage- how to prevent the additional syphoning to prevent an overflow when the powers restored!!
All suggestions are appreciated. Thank You.
P.S. I think your site is excellent...
<Thank you. You have many good ideas, and an obvious quick, discerning mind... Do read/study a bit more here... take good notes... write back if something appears anomalous, missing, unclear... and you'll do fine. Bob Fenner>

Freedom Filter Review     11/14/06
Bob,
  Don't think the review on this unit will take place.  If you recall, I had sent in drawings on how to increase the surface skimming efficiency.  Was all taken in high regard, patent attorneys, blah, blah. 
Anyway, during the first three months of testing this unit, I found a few negatives.  I did want some input from the company on these before I sent in the review to you.  Never responded, even after three emails.  I don't know if I feel comfortable in getting this published without any input from them on the discrepancies.  
Initially, I had asked them for a nearby dealer as I wanted to evaluate this unit and perhaps have it published on our emag.  They were all gung ho about it and even sent me a complimentary filter complete with pump.  Wondering if this should be published and whether I might be liable for any negative comments made about it?
<I think you'll be fine James... to couch your comments as you have here...
that they're your opinions drawn from your observations. BobF>  
My findings in short are:  
1.  Does not efficiently surface skim as advertised.  
2.  Is definitely not "self cleaning".  
3.  Protein skimming efficiency is highly dependent on water level in tank, 
that is, water has to be added to the tank on a daily basis or you will constantly be fiddling with the air inlet valve.  
Regards,
James

Filtration Concerns   11/14/06
I have been reading thru your site and have my head spinning with info.
My main concern is filtration- I have a 75 gallon FOWLR & inverts w/LS (1"). My filters are 2 Fluval canisters w/filter pads, Chemi pure, bio-max and spray bars, a Prizm skimmer and heavy bio-load. I want to upgrade the filter to help with the bio-load and remove the canisters to obtain better water quality. Here's where I am stumped- a sump/refugium? By this are you referring to a partitioned off sump with the refugium in the middle compartment w/LS & LR?
Or two separate items?
<Actually one or the other>
Would you recommend one with a non drilled tank?
<Can be done with effective overflow box/es use>
I don't have the means of getting it drilled and I have read about syphon overflows. If a syphon overflow is used how can it be used effectively to prevent flooding?
<More than one...>
Would it be best to leave the sump out?
<Mmm, best? No>
For a non drilled tank would it be better to keep the canisters and add a fluidized bed filter?
<No>
(I have been told they are good for heavy bio-loads.) Or a HOT refugium?
<Smaller, less effective, though still useful technology>
I know the skimmer has to be upgraded, it doesn't work that great. I am looking into an Aqua C Pro? This being the first thing added?
<Good unit>
I was thinking of a couple powerheads for circulation. (There is one spray bar at each end of the tank pointing straight down and the fish look like they are fighting the current.) Will this stress the fish?
<Not likely>
Would you advise the addition of the powerheads?
<Possibly>
I know you say to read more which I will do, but sometimes it gets more confusing. My fish and I appreciate your opinions.
Thank You for your time.
<The more you eventually read, understand, the clearer all will be... do keep good notes. Bob Fenner>

BioRocker filter media question   11/7/06
I have a quick question about this filter.   I bought a 125 gallon reef ready tank with everything.  The filter is the Bio-Rocker system.  The guy had it running for less than a year, and he moved and took it all down.  It was all in a separate room and kept clean.  My question is should I replace the Bio Slabs in the filter or would I be ok starting them up again.  They are clean looking have been kept away from dirt or dust.  I realize there is no more bacteria on there but would I be ok starting it up again with out buying new ones. J
Thanks
Aaron
<Can re-use, continue to use (with some simple scrubbing, rinsing occasionally) this media. BobF>

Do I need a better protein skimmer?   11/6/06
  Hello again, hope all is well with you.  This Aiptasia problem is driving me nuts.  I also have a little bit of hair algae growing now as well.  I have a 90 gallon tank with a 20 gallon sump with a Aqua C remora pro protein skimmer, and am wondering if it is sufficient for my tank.
>Mmmmm<
  Tank inhabitants are: Kole tang, Clown fish, blue flavivertex Pseudochromis, bubble tip, Favia brain, Favites brain, green and red trach brain, Echinophyllia, Kenya tree, Ricordea, green star polyps, Montipora, Hydnophora, and a torch coral.
<Mmm... this is a real "mix" of cnidarians... I'd be removing/trading out at least the anemone>
I probably have a mix you wouldn't recommend (especially the bubble tip).  I have read about your protein skimmer selections but many things have changed since that article.  Euro reef is now using extruded acrylic vs. cast,
<Still good>
and many new skimmers have come on the market.  I work at a saltwater fish store so my options are endless.  The newest things I've seen are the CoralVue reef octopus skimmers which also use extruded acrylic and a needle wheel (some)
and I'm wondering if they work as well as a Euro reef skimmer.
<Mmm, don't know...>
The CoralVue are a bit cheaper and if they work as well as a Euro reef I was thinking about this option.  I don't overfeed my fish or corals, I feed my fish Spectrum pellets, and corals Mysis (twice per week).  My clean up crew is very limited since I have read many of your articles regarding crabs and peppermint shrimp not being completely reef safe.  
<Yes>
I only have a few snails, a serpent star, and cleaner shrimp.  I also have some Chaetomorpha algae in my sump from one of your forum users which has grown significantly in the past couple months.  I change 11 gallons of water per week, should I increase this?  
<Mmm, not necessarily>
Water parameters are: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 2.5 max, phosphate 0.2, alk 9 dKH, PH 8.3, calcium 400-450.  It is very important to me to keep a healthy tank so any advice on protein skimmers would be very appreciated.  Thank you very much, Ryan.  If you have any other advice on a clean up crew I
would appreciate that also.  Thanks again.
<The skimmer you have now should be adequate... your feeding sounds fine... your water quality reads as fine... There are a few ways to "go" here re environmental improvement... I'd look into ozone, given what you've presented here. Bob Fenner>

50 Year Old “Newbie” needs advice if you have time ... Bio. filt. issues, corals not adding to bioload?   11/5/06
One of my life’s desires was to keep an aquarium (my first).  Being a very avid gardener, I can not wait to start underwater gardening.  I live in a small community, only 2 Mom and Pop specialized salt water stores (besides PetSmart). My tank is only 3 months old. Having problems keeping fish alive, corals seem to be doing great.  I believe I’m being misled and making too
many mistakes that could have been avoided with correct information.  
<A very common situation>
I had my tank set up.  90 gal. glass rectangle complete with cabinet and canopy.  All equipment was supplied by same vendor:
90 Gal tank setup with overflow system
20 gal sump tank
2 sets T-5 lights
1 set moon lights
400 gph pump
Protein Skimmer
Heater
150 lbs live rock
5 bags live sand
Sump is setup as a weir?
<Mmm, yep... likely some sort of notched surface/overflow arrangement>
System.  The overflow tube delivers into corner of sump, where protein skimmer does its thing.  Next column 3” wide houses foam like filter material,
<Mmm, may need to clean this... daily>
next overflow column 3” houses another form of foam filter then enters pump area and back up to the main tank dispersed through 2 powerheads.  Very simple but is it too simple?
<?>
  Was told to clean skimmer regularly, as I do almost every day.  Told to wash filter material under tap to clean. (I think I’m losing priceless bacteria).  Other than that, there is nothing to clean except algae on glass which I clean daily.  I do 5% to 10% water changes weekly (seems like twice a week lately). My ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels never seem to change, can’t get them down.
(ammonia 1.0,
<This is trouble... needs to be zip, zero, undetectable>
nitrate 20,
<Borderline high>
nitrite .05 to 1).
<Ditto trouble>
  All other levels seem ok, Cal stays around 450, Salinity around 22, Alk ok PH around 8 to 8.5.  I use the pre-filled carbon bags 2 days a week.  I put one between the foam filters in the sump tank.
Last night we were doing a water change 10gal and my husband asks if I ever tested my saltwater.  I looked at him with a questioned face “Why”? I buy it ready to use, it should be ammonia free.  Well, was I wrong, I tested both the saltwater and the RO water.  Both had levels of ammonia of at least 1.0 .
<... this is strange. You might want to "check the checker" here... Your test kit/s may be off>
How will I ever get my ammonia to a zero level if I keep putting just as much in as I’m trying to get out.
<Should cycle out quickly... given sufficient biological filtration>
I am so confused, I can grow anything, my yard is a tropical paradise, I am very dedicated, diligent and have a heart for all animals.  I waited till late in life to start this venture and am very glad I now have the time and funds to do it right.  Please give me your thoughts or opinions on my current system and what upgrades or additional equipment you may think necessary (looking into the Rowaphos, denitrifying filter and UV filter).  I currently have over $6500.00 in my little tank and am willing to do whatever it takes to make this work.
Page 1
Page 2
One last thing:  Truth or Myth
Vendor said I could put in as many corals as I wished, would not affect bioload?
<Misleading... not so>
Currently house 30+ corals.  All beautiful and growing, only lost 2 elegance.
<Catalaphyllia are not hardy species nowadays from the wild>
Fish he said to go slow:  Now housing
1 small sailfin tang 2 ½”
1 purple Pseudochromis 1”
1 small pajama cardinal 1”
1 maroon clown 1 ½’
2 anemones
<... are by and large not suitable to mix with stony and soft corals... This could be a real source of your troubles here>
1 lawnmower blenny
1 scooter blenny
Various snails, hermits and shrimp.
Algae is not a problem, clean glass daily.
Feed frozen twice daily along with seaweed clips.
Liquid and frozen coral food every other day Silversides to corals weekly
<...? What species? Many "corals" are largely photosynthetic... some consume quantities of various size zoo-, phytoplankters... some are largely detritivorous... Few consume whole fishes>
Anemones fed every other day
<Too frequently... see WWM re the species you have>
My Tank is absolutely beautiful for being so young, you have to look close to see if waters in there.  Everything looks so animated. I am so excited and look forward to learning this new wonderful fulfilling hobby.
Thank you for your time
Tammy Martin
<As with your terrestrial gardening education, I strongly encourage you to invest the time in reading a few of the "complete story" standard works on marine aquarium/reef keeping. A bibliography of these can be found on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Wet/Dry Help!  - 11/02/06
I have been reading non-stop to try and figure a better filtration system. I think I have come up with a few options.. Can you please tell me if I am on the right track?
<Will try>
My 75 gallon tank is not pre-drilled, but here goes-
1) 2 powerheads-MaxiJet 900 or 1200, 20-30 gallon sump w/LR, good skimmer (aqua C) the red sea is junk, more LR, 1"of live sand with shells, and remove canisters or leave one.
2) Canister filter w/Ehfimech or Siporax on bottom, coarse filter, 1 or 2 ChemiPure media, PolyFilter position spray bars straight ahead at each other (on width part of tank) or down? Deep sand bed 3" or shallow 1", more live rock, good skimmer and powerheads?
3) Canister filter as above, live sand bed, more live rock , fluidized bed filter (too crowded), good skimmer, powerheads.
My ammonia and nitrite are 0. My phosphate and nitrate are always high. My ph is 8.2
Your input is much appreciated.
<Mmm, of the above... number one is my choice... not a fan of canister filters/filtration on the vast majority of ap.s on/with marine systems... But FWIW, I'd keep reading at this apparent stage/state of your understanding... You want to be sure here. Bob Fenner>

Filtration/Tank Cycling/Refugium Addition - 09/02/06
Hi crew,
<<Ronde>>
I am ~4wks into my SW experience and for the most part am really enjoying it.  WWM has been a great tool for me, but there isn't enough time in a day to read the whole site (I am trying).
<<Not necessary to read in a day...take two <grin> >>
As I stated pretty much everything is alive with the exception of a few snails (1 or 2 margaritas and a Nassarius or 2 (sp) <<Nassarius>>) and 1 of the 3 green Chromis I purchased.
<<Mmm...this tank is likely too "new" for livestock yet>>
That leaves 6 margarita  snails, some blue legged hermits, some Turbos (not sure which kind) and some Nassarius snails.  I just purchased an AquaPod 12 for use as a QT for any new pets.
<<Excellent...do be sure to read our FAQs on quarantine>>
Now for the questions.  1. I have a 46g bowfront glass tank with 60# of CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahama oolite, 30# of live rock, a Penguin 350 bio-wheel, a Penguin 200 BioWheel, a  Maxijet 900 powerhead, a Seaclone 100 (I know it is a bad choice and am looking to get a Remora or Remora pro; do you have any suggestions on which would be more appropriate?)
<<The AquaC Remora will serve fine...and you might want to consider removal of the bio-wheel filters unless this will be a FOWLR>>
There is also a 150w heater in there too.  Will this setup support soft coral or do I need to change some of the setup?
<<You don't state your lighting, but "generically speaking, yes.  Though you need to research the "specific needs" of the species you plan to acquire>>
My temp runs from an occasional low of 79 but stays in the 80 to low 81's.
<<This is fine>>
I have a 36" Current USA Nova Extreme set on timers with actinics  coming on for 8 hours and the 10000k on for 6 sandwiched in between the actinics and the lunars on after the actinics turn off at night.
<<You should shoot for a more natural (12-13 hour) photo-period>>
I had the lights on longer but had a diatom bloom that the snails have since taken care of.
<<Part of the natural algae succession of a new/cycling tank>>
My last water tests gave me a result of spec. gravity 1.022,
<<This needs to be NSW levels (1.025/1.026)>>
pH 8.4, ammonia  0ppm, nitrite <0.25ppm (color in between 0 and 0.25ppm on Aquarium Pharmaceuticals saltwater master liquid test kit) and nitrate 10ppm (usually around 20ppm steady).
<<This 4-week old tank is still cycling...please don't add further livestock until this is finished>>
Fish are fed 2 times per week 1/2 cube of frozen Mysis which takes about 6-min to eat.
<<Your fish should be fed daily my friend>>
Also I add Purple-Up a few times a week (I need to buy a calcium test kit) and use Seachem Reef Buffer once per week.
<<Please read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm>>
Would a refugium eliminate the need for one or both of the Penguin filters?
<<Your live rock will eliminate the need for these...but addition of a refugium is always beneficial>>
Due to space restrictions it would probably need to be HOB  style.  On an All-Glass brand tank would the extra weight be a  concern?
<<No>>
Fish seem to be happy and the snails seem to be happy except for the fact that a few hermit crabs have displaced them from their shells (I need to  buy some bigger shells).
<<A common issue...and one more reason I don't keep hermit crabs>>
I don't want to be a victim of paralysis by analysis but need to know if I am on the right track.
<<Keep reading...you'll get there>>
Sorry for the length but thanks for the help.
<<No worries my friend...but please do use proper capitalization on future exchanges>>
Ronde B.
<<EricR>>

Filtration, SW, Centropyge sys., sel.   9/2/06
Firstly, I appreciate all of the information available on your site. I may be suffering from a certain degree of volume overload and am trying to determine an optimal set-up for my system. I have a 40g (12" X 48" x 16"h) with 130W PC lighting, 20lbs liverock and a SeaClone150 protein skimmer.  I plan on adding more live rock, and realize that the SeaClone is not an optimal skimmer. The tank has been cycled and currently houses a blue damsel (that is rather submissive and was being abused by a Basslet in my established 20g), ~15 hermit crabs and 15 snails. I would like to add a flame angel,
<Mmm, not really enough space for this here>
then another compatible fish over time (any suggestions would be welcome), as well as a cleaner shrimp and perhaps a Fromia sp star. The ammonia, nitrate and nitrite are all 0. pH is currently 8.2 and calcium 450. The skimmer produces roughly 10-20 ml of a dark green suspension daily. There has been rather aggressive brown diatom growth,
<This will "go" in time>
but many of the snails and crabs were recent additions and this seems to be stabilizing (I have also recently decreased the time the light is on).  My reading leads me to conflicting opinions on whether the current set-up will be adequate, whether it might be adequate but I'll have to see how the system works over time, or whether it is obviously insufficient.
<For a "full-size" Centropyge species, the latter>
I   would appreciate suggestions regarding the current filtration set-up, and stocking plans. Thanks.
Scott
<Thus far you're doing fine... take your time... "when in doubt, count it out" might be a working philosophy to adopt, adapt... Keep reading, gathering data points. Bob Fenner>

Filtering question   8/21/06
Hi WebCrew - I have upgraded in the last few months to a 100 gal. saltwater tank and I am having so much fun that seems as though I can't have enough tanks around for all the things I want.
<Heeee! What a feeling!>
(you know how that goes)  I have two other tanks:  a 29 gal. acrylic of which I am planning to add seahorses (sure hope I have good luck with them - heard they are a real challenge... ordering from Oceanrider...
<Good animals, folks there>
problem is the temp. is hard to get down below 78 degrees in the room where this tank is located)
<Shouldn't be a problem with a tropical species...>
and I now want to switch my 46 gal. bowfront from freshwater to salt (my goodness...so much work!) mainly because I cannot put a fuzzy dwarf in my 100 gal due to having shrimps in the tank, of which I do not want to forfeit... I love watching them as much as I do the fish.  All I want for my 46 gal. which sits in the great room, is a fuzzy dwarf lionfish and perhaps a longnose butterfly and  threadfin,
<Mmm... these Butterflies really need more room>
OR a yellow tang.
<As does the tang>
  In this tank I will provide plenty of liverock and 1/2" sandbed.
Question is:  I have on hand a used wet/dry filter with a Rio 2100 (was used for a 55 gal. tank) AND I also have already running on the tank a HOT Penguin 350.  I plan on getting a good protein skimmer for the tank.  I guess what I am asking is which filtering system would be right for this 46 gal. tank?
<Should be fine>
  Wasn't sure if the wet/dry with a 2100 would be too much.
<Not too much>
  Thank you ever so much for your experience and advice... as always.  Linda in GA
<BobF in San Diego>

Three different factors. Clownfish beh., Koran Angel Sys., SW filtr.   8/21/06
Dear Mr. Bob Fenner
<Rachel>
Hope everything is fine there!
<Yes my friend. Thank you>
I need your option on three different factors.
I have an 80G with 1 Bannerfish 4”, 1 Hippo tang 3.5” and 1 Clownfish 1.5”. My Banner and the Hippo are very peaceful but as I added my Clarkii Clown 5 days ago it hides behind my Power-head but comes out and swims around when food is added and then he goes and hides again. Do you think he is in stress?
<Yes... but normal, to be expected. Takes a while to "get settled in">
and as a result will be infected with Parasites or something?
<Mmm, no... or at least not necessarily>
Until now I had no such outbreaks for almost a year now. I am just worried as I have heard sometimes stress will initiate bad outbreaks.
<Correct... hence the desire for quarantine, careful observation>
Do you think I should remove the small clown? Or if I introduce another 1.5” or 2” Clarkii clown, will it make things positive?
<I would start quarantining a/the new Clownfish if you intend to add one...>
Can I add a Koran Angel fish 3” to my 80G?
<Mmm, no, not really... this Pomacanthus will grow to be too large, cause too much stress in this sized setting>
I know this is a large angel and my tank will soon be smaller. How soon do you think this will happen?
<Months...>
Or is the fish already too big for my 80G?
<Nearly>
I can return this fish if it grows too large to my LFS. So do you think it’s alright to introduce this fish to my tank at the size of 3"?
<Not a good idea>
I need to know what equipment I will need to maintain my tank perfectly. I already have 1 Large Canister Filter with 3 bags of Activated Carbon and Bio-balls, 2 Power-heads, 1 Protein Skimmer with another Power-head, 1 UV-Sterilizer 9W, 1 Air Pump & a Heater. What else do you recommend I use to maintain perfect water quality?
<Mmm... you could experiment with a sump/refugium... but what you list along with diligent maintenance will do fine. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
and the linked files above, particularly "Rationale">
I want my Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate at perfect 0-levels. Do you think a wet-dry filter is a good idea?
<Actually no. Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wetdryfaqs.htm
and the linked files above>
Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Best regards,
Rachel
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Plumbing   8/6/06
I have been reading your site info and it is the best available anywhere. I have a start up question. I have a 90 gal tank live rock, fish some invertebrate, no problems, I bought it used from a pet store, so it was turn key. My wife liked it so much she bought and surprised me with a 300 gal glass for my birthday. Need advice on how to set up the filter first. It is from glass cages in Tennessee. It is drilled on both sides with a overflow box on both sides, appears to be about an 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 hole in each box, with schedule 80 bulkheads. Is one hole in each a return and one a drain to sump/pump? What is the best way to set up, I'd rather do it right. I plan on about 300 pounds of rock, sand, fish and some inverts.  I thought about a closed loop using the Pentair triple combos, but you seem to lean towards sumps, refugiums, or could I use a combo of both. How do I start my plumbing, do I need a standpipe in the tank overflow, and how to get it back into the tank. If  you could direct me it would be great.
<Do read this link and related links above.  I'm pretty sure your answers will be found here.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm
James (Salty Dog)>

Filters...Wet/Dry To Ecosystem   8/3/06
Greetings and thanks for all of the great info.
<You're welcome, Paul.>
After an exhaustive search I am unable to find any info on this question. I have a 90 Gallon tank with appropriately sized wet/dry filter (my mistake) with skimmer  and I can not seem to get my nitrates down, currently 20ppm. I am changing 20 percent of the water every two weeks. Inhabitants include Hepatus Tang, 6 Green Chromis, Lawnmower Blenny, Royal Gramma, Cleaner Shrimp and False Perc Clown. Mushrooms, Xenia, Green Starbursts round out the crowd which all seem to be doing well presently. I have 90 lbs live rock and a shallow sand bed.
When I started this venture I intended FOWLR but now want to establish a reef. Tell me if this plan sounds ok. I intend to remove the wet/dry using the bioballs from it in the Ecosystem filter in place of the ones that it comes with.
<No need to do this.  Would not use any bioballs in the Ecosystem. See comment below.>
I will have new water premixed to replace the content of the wet dry taken out at the change. At this point the skimmer will obliviously be gone also. Am I likely to have an ammonia problem with this approach?
<Should not.>
Am I missing something that will harm my friends?
<If you have no live rock, then you should use the old bio-balls until the Ecosystem gets seeded, then I'd remove them.>
I have read that an undersized skimmer is appropriate to use with this system and I am considering an Aqua C Remora.
<Would be a good choice.  You may also consider one of the Ecosystems with built in protein skimming.>
Your hard work on this site is greatly appreciated.
<Thank you, James (Salty Dog)>
Paul Powell

Need filtration advice for 125g predator tank (planning stages)   8/2/06
Hello Bob & crew,
   <Joe>
  After many searches on Reefcentral and your (awesome) website, I'm still quite confused on how to set up the filtration for a predator 125 gallon system I have in the works.
<Mmm, there are a few options... depending on what you want to spend up-front, ongoing maintenance... what look you're hoping to achieve... how "hands-on" you are, want to become>
I plan on keeping a zebra moray, a trigger or two,
<Best to keep this to one>
and the like, and am going to plumb the tank to my basement.  Not at all sure what combination of the following filtration options to pursue:   
  1) DSB -- has to be in the sump, b/c the triggers & etc. will eat all the sand-sifting worms, pods, etc.  BUT, some folks (Dr. Ron most notably among them), think DSB's in the sump can't work,
<...?>
b/c the sand-stirring critters won't get enough of the tank's detritus and other nasties, meaning the critters will starve and the nasties will stay nasty.  
<Nah>
Many posts on your site seem to disagree, and advise hobbyists to go ahead and do a remote DSB as long it's receiving the purely dirty water from above,
<The "dirt" will, does get there in any case>
and isn't downstream in the sump from some other means of filtration.  SO, is an in-sump DSB a decent idea or not?
<Is best in almost all cases, circumstances, set-ups...>
And even if it's a decent idea in theory, is it worth doing in such a waste-generating system?  
<IMO/E, yes>
Am more than willing to build a series of uber-sumps in the basement if the surface area will give me the filtration capacity I need -- something along the order of 2 or 3 times the tank's surface area.
   <The more volume, the better...>
  2) PLENUM -- thinking about setting one up in the display tank, and seems a worthwhile measure to take as long as one doesn't stray from Dr. Jaubert's parameters.
<Mmm... plenums are highly overrated IMO>
  But, again, am wondering whether a plenum will make more than a minor dent in the filtration needed for this system.
<Not worth the loss of space, appearance in such a system as this IMO>
Oh, and is it true that DSBs and plenums will get rid of ammonia and nitrites, rather than simply reducing nitrates?
   <One of their principal goals, functions, yes>
  3) WET/DRY -- these are easy and cheap to DIY, and are very efficient at eliminating ammonia and nitrites.  Am concerned about huge nitrate build-up, and haven't been able to get a straight answer as to whether a properly set up DSB or plenum could "consume" the excess nitrates produced by the wet-dry.
<Both, either can/should>
Am also concerned about detritus buildup within the filter media itself (on the bio-balls), so I'm thinking it might be worthwhile to place the wet-dry relatively "downstream" in the sump system, perhaps fed with an internal pump with a filter sock on the inlet.  Even then, not sure it's a worthwhile idea.
   <If using a WD, I'd place it first... After the sock (which may need to be cleaned, switched out for a clean/ed, dried one... daily...) right after the overflow lines...>
  4) THE CALFO BUCKET O'SAND -- Gotta love this approach -- just get a five gallon bucket, fill it with fine sand, flow water OVER it, and seems to accomplish a nice measure of nitrate reduction.  Can't see any real downside, as long as detritus buildup in the bucket is avoided.
   <Just a pain in the keester to monitor, clean... Oh, and can present tragic sudden death issues...>
  5) LIVE ROCK -- Would like to avoid the look of 1-2 lbs per gallon in the display, and would prefer something more like 1 lb per 2 or 3 gallons.
<Suit yourself>
  Am willing to place additional LR in the sump (or buy "base rock", place it near the LR, and let it become "live"), but have read that LR isn't very useful as a means of filtration (way, way less surface area than a DSB, no?).  
   <Very useful for many other functions...>
  6) REFUGIUM W/CHAETO -- Nice idea and again, no real drawbacks.  But, again, not sure it will help much in such a waste-abundant system.
   <If you have room...>
  SO, HERE'S WHAT I'M CONTEMPLATING -- A DIY skimmer modeled after the larger Reef-Octopus re-circulating version (body is 8" pvc and 2 ft tall);
<Mmm, actually... most DIY fractionators are a waste of time, solvent and pipe... For what you're investing here, go with a real engineered unit... our reviews are posted... For me here; a Euro-Reef product>
DSB in each of two Rubbermaid 100 gallon troughs (fed w/detritivores from IPSF and/or local reefers); a Calfo bucket or two for good measure and a good laugh; and some sort of lit refugium.  After that, not sure what to do on the wet/dry, plenum or live rock  -- and still quite puzzled whether the DSB concept has any real application in "predator"-type setups with so much waste.   
  Please advise . . . .
     Joe
<There's my input. Bob Fenner>

Marine Filtration ...Questions   7/28/06
Hi Bob/Crew
<Howdy>
I have sent a few emails to you and I still need some more help deciding on skimmers. I found a good deal on eBay for an Aqua C Remora Pro. The manufacturer says it can handle tanks from 40-120 gallons. I read on your site that it is possible of having a skimmer that is too powerful. Would the Aqua C Remora Pro be too powerful for my 36 gallon aquarium?
<No.>
Also, I currently have 2 filters.
An emperor with one intake tube that holds Rite Size cartridge E (if that helps identifying it, I got it used so I don't know the model number) and I also have a Hot Magnum (I think it's a 250). First of all, my Hot Magnum had a powerful water flow with the micron cartridge installed for the first 2 days, but today I noticed, as the day went on, the water flow slowed down increasingly still with the micron cartridge.
<The micron cartridges can plug up rather fast.  In the manual it states how to clean the cartridge.>
I added live rock today, only 10 lbs to start out with, could sand have gotten clogged into the filter?
<More than likely the sediment.  Shouldn't really use a micron cartridge until things settle down.>
Second of all, if I want to add a skimmer, the Aqua C Remora Pro, I need more space on the back of the tank. Could I take the Hot Magnum off and replace it with the skimmer and still keep my water quality high and keep hardy, soft corals/invertebrates?
<Yes, but first, I'd get an additional 25 pounds of live rock to act as the bio-filter and do away with the Emperor all together.  For water movement, a couple of power heads will do the trick.  Shoot for a total flow rate of 400 gph.>
I do not plan on spending a lot of money on a below the tank sump because I am just starting out. Thanks for all the previous advice you gave me and I hope to finally make this work!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

Canister or wet/dry ... or....  7/23/06
Hello,
I just got a 70 gallon oceanic tank that is not pre-drilled, but it does have the light hood and canopy (which gives me some concern as to what will fit on  the back of my tank).
<The canopy and/or the tank may have to be cut/drilled to accommodate such gear...>
I do not want to drill my tank and I am going to set up a fish only system.  I purchased a Rena XP 3 canister filter (for up to  
175 gallons) and an Aqua-C Remora with MJ1200 HOT skimmer.   However, in my research for the skimmer, I saw a lot of wet/dry sump filters  with protein skimmers already included (for instance I found a TITAN PRO 150 Wet  Dry With Protein Skimmer And CA 2200 Pump for a reasonable price - although I  don't know if this system is advisable).
<Mmm, better/superior to a canister IMO>
I can take back my canister  filter and the skimmer and buy the wet/dry sump skimmer combo with pump and  overflow kit for about the same amount.  I want the best set up that I can  get for my money (I can not afford to go over $350-$400 for this).
<There is technology in turn superior to the wet-dry...>
  Therefore, my question is - am I better off with the canister/HOT skimmer setup  I already have or should I
go wet/dry/sump/skimmer combo with the overflow  adapter to take the connections over the back of my tank?
<The second is better... though the skimmer is inferior>
Also keep in mind this  is my fist salt water aquarium so I need a set up that will work best for the  fish and that I can set up.  
<I understand>
Also feel free to recommend any changes or  brand suggestions to what I have described.
Thanks, Jackie
<Perhaps a bit more reading will aid you in your decision here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Scan these linked files... Bob Fenner>

Filtration/Berlin System   7/2/06
Do you know where I can find diagrams to build my own Berlin system, sump and all?
<This link will lead you to a complete diagram of LifeReef's Berlin System.  http://www.lifereef.com/berlin.html
Hope it helps  Can't seem to search our site today for additional info.  James (Salty Dog)>
Keenan

Filtration...Eliminating HOB Filter   6/27/06
Hey crew,
<Justin>
Got a quick question.
I've got a 40 gallon custom sized tank (32.5"x14.25"x19"... don't ask me where it's from, bought it used from my LFS and they were as confused as me!
Currently running with the filtration it came with in a package deal: an Emperor 400 (no BioWheels), and a Prizm Pro skimmer. I'm already in the planning stages of replacing these, before I go much further, the tank stands now (50lb live rock, 30lb live sand, a Chromis and an ocellaris), and would very much like to eliminate the HOB filtration unit. I've already got a tentative order in for the Coralife Super Skimmer at my LFS, which is much closer to my price range than my desired gear (a remora... of course), but now I'm looking at the possibility of a CPR Aquafuge, just to avoid having to drill the tank, or the pitfalls of a HOB siphon system. In your opinion, would the largest size AquaFuge, with a DSB, a few pounds of LR rubble, and macro algaes would be sufficient to drop the Emperor altogether?
<Sure, many systems are run this way.>
The sandbed in my tank is more for show than nitrifying properties, as it ranges from an inch to an inch and a half in depth, and I'd prefer to not increase that for aesthetics. I can always add more LR to the tank, to balance out, just curious on your opinions towards this (almost too) simple sounding solution.
<No problems, go for it.>
Thanks in advance,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Justin

Freedom Aquarium Filter Info   6/18/06
Hi there WWM crew!  I have had a Proquatics wet/dry sump w/ skimmer in  a 75 gallon FOWLR housing a mating pair of maroon clownfish, a marine Betta, a coral beauty, a brittle starfish, and several hermit crabs and snails.  I recently came across an advertisement for the All Flo Freedom Aquarium Filter by   Freedom Aquarium Products.  Have you had any experience with this  filter?  I'm looking for something that may simplify what I currently  have...and with a toddler, I'm afraid "little hands" may find the sump hidden in  the cabinet under tank.
<Dan, not familiar with that filter but here is a link to Premium Aquatics that has a closeout on these.  If you scroll down you will see links to more info and testimonials.  This may help you.  http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FP-FFPNP&Category_Code=Special
James (Salty Dog)>
Regards,
Dan

Heavy Stocking 5/14/06
Hello,
<Hi>
I would like to know if live rock and sand is capable of handling heavy bioloads.
<Depends on the definition of heavy>
I have read a wet dry is superior when it comes to heavy bioloads.
<Wet/dries are useful in overstocked tanks, unnecessary in properly stocked tanks>
I guess I'm asking if I go with a powerful skimmer, a sump, live rock, and sand, if it will be better than a wet dry in regards to heavy bioload.  I have purchased your book and keep rereading it.
Thank you
<LR and a quality skimmer should be able to handle any properly stocked tank.  If you need a wet/dry to keep up with ammonia and nitrite then you should take a look at your livestock>
<Chris>

Filtration Question   4/28/06
Hi WWM Crew,
<Dennis>
Again, GREAT site.  It has been an invaluable resource and I can't thank you enough for all that you do and the questions you've answered.  Now I have another for the bunch.  I've searched through the site and can't seem to find an answer to this question and was hoping you could give some insight.
Here's my setup:
45 gallon Odyssea bow front aquarium;
75 pounds of live sand (equal to about a three inch substrate);
15 pounds of live rock;
1 Giant Piece Of Dead Coral (provided for a hiding place for the fish but now a home to a grotesque bloom of hair algae);
<Yikes>
1 UV scrubber;
2 Power heads on either end of the tank (one with a spiral water jet arm and
the other with a directional output pointed to break the surface for
aeration);
1 CPR BakPak 2 protein skimmer;
1 Penguin Emperor HOB power filter;
1 Flu-Val 350 canister filter with the following media: Pre-filter,
Activated Carbon, Purigen Synthetic Absorbent, BioMass, Algone & Polishing pad (In That Order).
And here's my livestock:
2 Damsels [Dot & Charley];
2 Cleaner Shrimp [Nerdly & Fungo];
3 Turbo Snails [Speedy, Racer, Zippy];
1 Cowry Snail [Tanya];
1 Nudibranch [Simone] (That laid eggs the day we added 'her' to the tank.
Yikes!) ;
1 Chocolate Chip Starfish [Chip].
We'll be adding more fish but we're trying to take our time with populating the tank to let the bio filter catch up with the bio load.
All that said, my question is about my filtration.  We set the aquarium up originally with the penguin HOB filter with a bio-wheel and an activated carbon filter for two reasons: 1) the bio-wheel and 2) the fact that I've used it in the past with great success.  It is a great filter but it is rather messy as it causes water to splash up on the light fixtures even if the water level is perfect and occasionally out of the tank if the level
gets too low; it also throws bubbles into the tank - both of these are just the nature of HOB filters and neither of these items is a problem, per se: the bubbles are large enough they'd normally just float to the top and cleaning a bit of salt cake off the lights isn't that big a deal in grand scheme of things.  However, through multiple challenges and upgrades we now have the two power heads listed above on either end of the tank and one sits directly below the penguin so the bubbles that aren't really a problem when they are large get caught in the power head and are minced into micro bubbles that make the tank look cloudy.  The micro bubbles from our skimmer combined with the micro bubbles from the power head/filter setup made the fish almost invisible. (The skimmer isn't throwing bubbles any longer (thank
you again for your advice on setting that piece of equipment up) but the filter still is and while the tank has cleared a bit, the bubbles are still
a nuisance.)  To round out the history: through many trials, tribulations and a couple of huge mistakes, we finally got the power heads placed so we're getting good cross-current and the filter is stuck where it is because the skimmer, UV scrubber and canister tubes take up the rest of the back of the tank.  If anything has to move, it'd have to be the power heads and after all we've went through, I'd prefer not to move those if at all possible.
Way back at the beginning of this process (about a week after setting up the aquarium); we decided to add a Flu-Val 350 to the setup and have been very satisfied with it.  It's been running for almost two months now and gets cleaned once a week at which time we replace the activated carbon; polishing pads and Algone.  The bio-mass has discolouration which I've read is a good indicator that the bacterial colonies have set up shop.  The cleaning also acts as a small water change because we dump the water in the filter and replace it with fresh sea water and the tank gets a major water change (20% at least) once per month.   Now for the question (sorry, I'm notorious for my diarrhea of the keyboard):
With the Flu-Val which is designed for a 75 gallon tank, do we really need the Penguin Emperor?
<I would run this as well if you have it already>
It's one more piece of equipment to clean and the Flu-Val seems to be doing a great job on it's own.  I'd love to stop the
micro-bubbles and not have the expense of the filter replacements but am concerned about losing the bio-wheel.  Will the substrate, live rock and Flu-Val be enough to handle the bio-load?
<Yes, very likely>
If there were an adjustment for the flow on the Penguin, it would be great but there isn't that I can see or that is printed in the manual.  If the Penguin is still required; do you have any suggestions on how to limit the flow of water out of the filter into the tank so the bubbles don't drop so deep and the water doesn't splash as much?  
<A "dampening sponge" can be fitted on the discharge side of the HOB, but this is a DIY project, and needs to be cleaned often... weekly at the most>
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Warm regards,
Dennis
<As time goes by, you will find there are other filtration modes, methods other than canister and hang-on power filters... that are more "appropriate"... for now, if you're satisfied with the results and hair algae, you can get by with the Fluval. Bob Fenner>

Too much filtration? - 27//04/06
Here are specs for the system.
240 gal saltwater fish only- I want to have a lot of fish
<Yikes!>
proposed filtration: 3-4 inch DSB
<3-4 inches does not a good DSB make. Do read through our articles on DSBs.>
100 lbs base rock, (mainly to assist the cycling initially, and for aquascaping.)
mega flow Sump 4 (rated for 200 gal)
Remora Ev Skimmer (rated for 150, this will run continuously)
<Both are under-sized?>
I heard conflicting opinions most leading to the "overfiltration side".  My experience is that there is good in all methods, and I'd like the system to have at least a presence in a number of methods?
What do you think about the filtration
<I think both a skimmer and sump are valuable - indeed necessary - additions for a tank of this size. They are not mutually exclusive. As skimmers are usually over-rated, I'd say you were "under" filtered. You'll find it very hard to over-filter this tank.>
Thanks
You guys rock!!  Oooops You guys "live" ROCK!!
<Yeah... which reminds me... you don't mention live rock. I'd add some of that, too! And don't forget to look into strong water movement. Best regards, John.>

Filtration follow-up - 28/4/06
The most practical way of addressing the filtration.  Would include: larger or better skimmer--  How about the ASM-G3.
<I've heard good things about the ASM series, but do consider a larger model if you can.>
I'm ashamed to mention it but once head pressure is considered I only have 10x flow (2400 gph). WithOUT improving this flow is it safe to say that the effectiveness of adding live rock, is negated.
<No, certainly not. Higher flow is often recommended for the benefit of stony corals, which you do not seem to plan to keep. However, you'll need enough flow to sweep detritus off the bottom of the tank, and send it to the skimmer. I'd therefore shoot for a bit more flow, if you can. As long as it doesn't disturb the DSB, that is.>
So I really wont be able to compensate by only the skimmer and live rock.  I'll need to address my flow.
Crud it seems like more money, lol
I'm on the right line I think now.
<Do read through some of the set-up FAQs on live rock and water movement. Best regards & good luck, John.>

Painting milk creates, mar. filtr. options
Hello,
I'm painting milk creates that will go in my tank.  How long does the paint need to dry before I can put them in the tank?
<Likely a day or more>
I was also reading about ZEOvit, Is there any options on how well it work?
<Options? Opinions? Have seen such systems... is a workable technology>
Or is it better to run ozone and refugiums?
<For most folks, this latter. Bob Fenner>
Please Help,
Eric

Equipment/Wet/Dry Sump    4/6/06
Hello,  <Hello Alex>
I'm running a Magnum 350 and a CPR skimmer in my 55 gallon reef tank. My LFS told me I should change my mag 350 for a wet-dry filtration system with an overflow, because it will be a better filtration system for a reef tank. What do you guys think??? <Go with your dealer.> Right now I just have mushrooms and a sun coral (beautiful) and some fish!!! I will be upgrading my lights and a chiller to keep Acros.
Thanx  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>