Chaetomorpha question 11/10/04
In Today's Q/A there was mention of Chaetomorpha and to allow it to roll around. Is this a part of the requirements for successful growth of this plant?  <Chaetomorpha does not root and does best when it is not allowed to simply lay on the bottom of the tank, but it is very forgiving.  I have successfully grown it without keeping it suspended.  IME, the most important thing is to thin it often and not allow it to become too dense. HTH.  Adam

Growing Porphyra perforata and Kappaphycus alvarezii (Opening A Sushi Bar?) - 06/10/05
I am trying to grow two types of Red algae (Porphyra perforata and Kappaphycus alvarezii) in 20 gallon fish tanks.  I have synthetic seawater (Ricca chemical) and Instant Ocean mix.  I also have a hydrometer, floating type for specific gravity determinations. I am using a chiller at 25C/77F for temperature control with light source and air circulation provided within a Conviron growth chamber.  Rio pump 2500 for circulation through the chiller, fitted with a nylon filter over intake.  The pH is maintained at 8.0.  Do I need to have rocks or other means of attachment for growth of the two species listed?  I want to culture the macro algae, which was shipped on wet ice, but am having problems getting it to grow in the 20 gallon tanks...any suggestions would be helpful.  I want to ONLY grow the algae, no fish involved.
<<Well Dennis, my first suggestion would be to separate the two species if they aren't all ready to eliminate energy loss due to competition (chemical aggression).  Next...the P. perforata; according to my research, is a northern Pacific algae...likely the water temp should be in the 68-72 degree range for it to prosper...the K. alvarezii; again, according to my research, is a tropical algae...bumping its water temp to 79-80 degrees may increase growth.  Based on this you may need to operate two systems, or specialize in one species of algae.  As for rocks, both algae are found attached/overgrowing a substrate/other sessile organisms, so it probably couldn't hurt to add a few, though I don't know about the algae's ability to reattach.  You might find that obtaining specimens still attached to a substrate will be more suitable for propagation.  Providing intense lighting, increasing water flow, and supplementing iodine/iron may prove beneficial as well.>>
Thank you, Dennis O'Neill
<<Regards, Eric R.>>

Seaweed culture  8/31/05
Bob
I was going thru ORA's website on how they culture seaweeds.
What do they mean when they say they use "An air-generated method of tumbling the algae in large vats is employed to culture them."
<Air bubbles, from pressurized air, are released in a circular (torus) fashion on the bottom of circular tanks, lifting water and the algae and turning it "donut fashion" in the water... gives all exposure to light, moves nutrients about. BobF>
http://www.orafarm.com/algae.html
regards
Perry

Hawaiian Ogo... Lolo for Ogo!
Aloha WWM Crew,
<Eh Howzit Jeff, Scott F. with you (one haole with one Big Island girl)>
Your web site is DA KINE (the best). I can't thank you guys enough for the great service you provide. I live on the island of Oahu and have a 55 FO tank. I have a question about Hawaiian Ogo (seaweed). I noticed that the local markets have fresh Ogo bagged for consumption.
I was wondering if you could place that Ogo in your sump or main display.
<If you got the Ogo already refrigerated, chances are it will not grow in your sump or aquarium. If it's fresh, meaning you "jus' wen pick em from da ocean water," then, the Ogo will probably survive and grow. I have had success growing fresh Ogo in a 10 gallon aquarium with an airstone. Please note that Ogo (Gracilaria parvispora) needs a lot of light and should be kept in suspension in order to grow at its best> 
Moreover, would it be okay to place shoreline rocks from the North Shore into my tank without worrying about pollution and other negative consequences. Thanks for all your help.
<Jeff, are you referring to coral rubble or lava rock? If it's coral rubble, it may be okay after curing. If it's lava rock, it may not work in a closed system, because of the possibility that it could release lots of compounds that will induce microalgae growth. Also, you might want to check with local authorities to see if it's legal to collect rock.>
Jeff
<Malama Pono and A hui hou! Scott F.>

Macroalgae In The Mix
Hi
My water parameters are calcium 350, kH 7.4 and alkalinity 2.63.
<KH and alkalinity are a bit on the low side, but well within acceptable parameters>
The iodine is saturating the water through adding too much.
<Hmm- definitely continue regular water changes and discontinue the iodine dosing- the level should fall to a "normal" concentration>
The Penicillus seaweed is still white looking and the Ophiocoma seem to be shedding segments from the tips of their arms and to be losing bristles and turning white in patches along the arms. One brittle star seems to have lost most of his arms.
<Not sure what could be causing the brittle star to lose arm segments...I'd keep shooting for the highest possible water quality through aggressive skimming and water changes>
I cleared out most of the racemosa and the prolifera isn't a problem but how do I attach cuttings of taxifolia to rocks? I know a local fish shop takes seaweed cuttings but the taxifolia is harder to attach.
<If you want to keep working with this species, you might want to try attaching it with some cable twist ties gently pressed near the runners (not too tight-you just don't want it to blow away in the current) around some small chunks of live rock. I've done that with Halimeda and even Gracilaria with decent results. Once the algae puts down it's runners, you can cut away the twist ties. It's not too attractive, but you'll only need to do this for a few days, or until the runners attach. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Phycology Culture Text/Manuals?
 Hi Bob,
 Been catching up on reefkeepers and saw you mention a phycology culture  course you had to take way back when. Are there any texts available for this  subject (and can you recommend any you might know about) and would they be  applicable to the types of algae available to the hobby. 
<Yes to both... several... look at the bibliographies to the algae pieces posted on the WWM site, www.wetwebmedia.com>
Specifically, I've  tried some of the Rhodophyta that occasionally crop up (pun intended!) in  the LFS but have never had much luck. I haven't been able to find anyone who  knows (or will confess to know) much about the culture of tropical  macroalgae.
 As you may know I was trying to find someone to speak on that topic for WMC  but even Jim Wolfe, who did his thesis (or was it dissertation?) on one of  our local macroalgae punted at that suggestion.
 Dave Sheehy
<I'll do so if you'd like... Bob Fenner, pls note/use new e-mail addr.>