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Rules and Guidelines; we all live by one
set or another and it's no different when it comes to our
aquariums. While many of these standards in the hobby contradict each
other and at times and cause confusion or controversy, there are
however, a few of these standards that are undeniable. One of these
guidelines being: 'Tanks with larger volumes are chemically more
stable than those of smaller volumes and thus easier to maintain.'
Thus we get the 40-gallon rule, as in no marine system should be
smaller than 40-gallons in volume. So the logical conclusion is,
'No one would ever start a marine system less than 40 gallons',
but you and I know that this is far from the truth. In fact it's
quite commonplace to see aquarists with nano tanks (a.k.a. pico marine
systems); tanks whose water volume does not exceed 30 gallons are
generally placed into this category. It is undeniable that the
popularity of nano/pico marine systems has gained momentum in recent
years. Consumers have readily accepted them into their homes and
offices and marketers have happily provided them with the means to do
so. Indeed the nano tank has a following of its own and this is evident
with 'ready-made' nano systems and chat forums dedicated solely
to the smaller marine systems. However popularity and 'easy'
are not synonyms - nanos are not for everyone.
Although it seems the nano reef craze
arrived here overnight, this is hardly the case. The idea of small
marine systems has been around long before the overwhelming popularity
ensued. Ornamental use of the nano system first became popular within
the 'veteran' aquarist community. Aquarists who had long term
success in larger marine aquaria used the nano tank as a test of
discipline. As time passed more and more people began to venture into
the realm of small systems. In Japan, for instance, tanks as small as 2
gallons to ¾ of a gallon are on the hot sellers list. Some
aquarists only keep nano systems and even more amazing people are
choosing nanos as their first aquariums.
To be honest it astounds me why anyone
would prefer a smaller marine tank than a larger one. Smaller volumes
severely limit your livestock options as there are few animals suited
to long term life in such a confinement. The margin of error is
severely reduced; one missed water change, a slight overfeeding, death
of a tank mate, even a day's worth of unchecked evaporation can
cause a small system to crash within hours. Overdosing becomes a big
concern as well when it comes to supplements such as iodine, pH buffer,
calcium and so on. An overdosing of such chemicals can also swiftly
bring a nano into disarray. To be quite honest first time aquarists
should not attempt nanos and I find it confusing that at times even
veteran aquarists suggest nanos as a good starting point in the marine
hobby. Granted that nanos can be convenient at initial cost and size,
but chances are a novice would be frustrated with the instability and
quit before going deeper into the hobby. Alas nanos are not all bad. They may be
the only option when living in confined quarters or when larger tanks
are not financially an option (though many of the extravagant nanos I
have seen could have easily been set-up as tanks nearly double their
size for the same cost). Nanos can also serve as an efficient display
for animals that would not be easily viewed or fed in a large display
such as Harlequin Shrimp (Hymenocera picta) or Sexy Shrimp (Thor
amboinensis). Nanos can also make great remote refugiums for larger
systems; whether it be culturing macro algae for Tangs or providing a
fish-less habitat for microfauna to procreate (inline refugiums can
serve these purposes as well).
While we were all beginners at some point
I must admit the large percentage of failed nanos I have observed are
maintained by first time aquarists. All too often beginners are sold on
the myth that a smaller system will come with less maintenance than a
larger system. Ready made Nano systems have attempted to simplify one
of marine aquaria's biggest feats, with marketing claims that
suggest their product is the only thing necessary for a successful
experience. New aquarists arrive home confident that the local dealer
has bestowed all the necessary information upon them only to run into
trouble and quit the hobby, often within months. I will go as far as to
say it is irresponsible to push a nano on a novice while downplaying or
even hiding the obvious complications. I urge all those considering
nanos to research thoroughly beforehand, whether you be a first-timer
or a veteran. Below is a short list of common problems I have observed
pertaining to smaller systems: Overstocking. Keeping a small water volume
stable is hard enough, overstocking it is asking for a quick
crash. Improper Stocking, entirely different from
overstocking, but just as dangerous. Sure some animals are small enough
to fit in nanos but that does not mean the environment suits them.
I'm sad to say I have seen many dragonets sentenced to death in
tanks as small as 10 gallons. Lack of Research, That should be enough
said, but honestly most of the other problems are results of being
unprepared. Research the needs of the animals you wish to keep and
decide if you can provide the appropriate environment before purchasing
livestock. Not quarantining New Livestock. Every time
you add an animal that is not properly quarantined you are gambling. A
quarantine tank may seem like a hassle but in the end it will save you
lot of money, time and heartache. Ignoring Regular Maintenance. This act is
usually not done purposely but unfortunately usually stems from
ignorance or lack of research. The most common maintenance ignored in
my observation is the water change. Water Changes are of the utmost
importance to any aquarium and with the instability of a smaller volume
they become even more important. Not Practicing Patience. Over-excited
beginners usually commit this act. They begin to stock to fast
(usually before the nitrogen cycle is complete) and the tank never
stabilizes. Not having a Test Kit. When keeping a
nano, or any tank for that matter, it is imperative to monitor the
water chemistry as often as possible. Whether it is a small drop in pH
or elevated nitrate levels, if a problem is detected early it can be
corrected before livestock is lost. Not utilizing a protein Skimmer. I find it
very perplexing that many people discourage the use of protein skimmers
on smaller marine tanks. Protein Skimmers are by and large one of the
most essential pieces of equipment for maintaining marine aquaria. We
already know that nanos are less stable than tanks with larger water
volumes, so protein skimmers should be even higher on the priority list
for nano owners. Insufficient Filtration Methods and lack
of water flow. The 'ready-made' nano tanks come to mind with
this one. Many lack the filtration turnover rates necessary to maintain
a marine aquarium. The lack of water flow allows detritus to accumulate
leading to nutrient issues. Disease Treatment. This is yet another problem that stems from many of the others already addressed, including lack of research and lack of quarantine. It is inevitable that aquarists will at times have livestock in their care that experience trauma leading to disease or injury. Those that have not taken the proper time to set up a quarantine tank or research on their own will likely attempt to treat their display. This can lead to a number of problems including destroying the beneficial bacteria on any bio-media or live rock that resides within the display. Or possibly the aquarist will treat the tank without using a test kit to monitor the level of medication in the tank and overdose. Needless to say these and other plausible events can lead to quick trouble.
As mentioned earlier there is a buffet of ready made nano marine systems to choose from. To be honest I have had experience with several of the popular brands now and none have been complete in my opinion. Most of them lack in either water movement or lighting and the majority of them omit protein skimmers altogether. That is why if I were to start a nano tank I would prefer to use a stand-alone tank. Doing it this way gives the owner the luxury of choosing each individual piece of equipment. Choosing a Tank? As with any marine system surface area is important when choosing the dimensions of a tank. Of the standard tank sizes available, those that can be bought stand alone and not 'ready-made,' I am fond of the following: 15 gallon (standard) 24 x12 x12
inches 20 gallon (long variance) 30 x12 x12
inches 25 gallon (standard) 24 x12 x20
These tanks are shallow enough to light
easily but still large enough to provide decent surface area for
aquascaping and livestock. Filtration: If you only take one thing away from this
article I hope it's the necessity for a protein skimmer. The
easiest way to employ one on a smaller system would be one of the hang
on varieties. I would also utilize an ample amount of live rock for
biological filtration rather than rely on plastic bio-media. Aside from
the protein skimmer, simple power filters can be quite useful in
additional water movement and serve as auxiliary filtration for running
media such as carbon. Should you choose not to use a power filter or
still want more water flow, simple powerheads such as maxi-jet are good
choices. In the grand scheme of things the volume of the tank should
turn over 5 times per hour at a minimum with 10-15 times being even
better. While it is not a necessity I would prefer to use pre-cured
live rock in a nano as managing the die off from uncured rock in a
small system would be unadvisable in my opinion. Should you have the
means to cure rock in a quarantine tank, Rubbermaid tub or even a
trashcan these to can be viable options. As for substrate,
unfortunately a Deep Sand Bed is rather impractical when working with
these volumes so a bare-bottom tank or 1 inch or less of sand for
aesthetic purposes only is recommended. Lighting Every once and a while two crazes occur at
the same time: along with the nano craze, the hobby is also currently
engulfed in the highly lit SPS and Tridacnid tank. The two however are
not a good combination. Shallow water organisms come from one of the
most stable environments on Earth; a nano is not a stable environment!
Hanging a 250-watt metal halide unit over a nano is asking for trouble.
At the least you would need an auto top off system and fans to keep the
aquarium cool. Even with these, overheating is still an issue, so for
the novice aquarist I would recommend against this type of lighting
scheme. Overall the type of lighting you choose should be a direct
reflection of the photosynthetic (zooxanthelle hosting) animals your
tank houses. These are the most commonly used lighting types in the
nano-reefing hobby at the moment: Normal Out Fluorescence In a small tank
even an N.O. bulb can provide the necessary requirements for a few
animals hosting zooxanthelle. The disadvantage of these bulbs
however is their standard long configurations and large sizes
preventing low profile efficient reflectors. Very High Output Fluorescence, these are
high output versions of the Normal Fluorescent bulbs, they have great
color, good bulb life with similar disadvantages and also produce more
heat. Power Compact Fluorescence The design of
the Power Compact Bulb makes it the most common choice for smaller
tanks, though LED's (Light Emitting Diodes) may be taking over that
role in the near future. The output even allows for the keeping of some
of the more shallow water or 'light greedy' creatures. However
while the design of the power compact bulb is its biggest advantage its
also a huge downfall. Their side by side, 'bent back on itself'
alignment causes the bulb to literally heat itself up and thus the bulb
life is shorter. Replacement is recommended every 6 to 9 months.
Furthermore, while a large amount of Power Compact 'wattage'
can be squeezed into a relatively small area in comparison to other
fluorescent bulbs many hobbyists contend that the color spectrums in
relation are not as aesthetically pleasing. T-5 High Output. Though expensive at
initial cost, the bulb life more than makes up for it. Some of these
bulbs can last over 2 years without any depreciation in lumen output.
Speaking of lumen output, though the wattage of these bulbs tend to be
low, the output easily tops that of PC and comes close to rivaling
Metal Halides but without the heating issue. If you choose to ignore
the above advice about keeping shallow water organisms in nanos I would
prefer you use these lights rather than Metal
Halides. Metal Halides. A member of the high
intensity discharge family, although their relative size is much
smaller than that of fluorescent bulbs and even incandescent, Metal
Halides put out a large amount of power and heat. While metal
halides will undoubtedly provide all the necessary light needed for any
photosynthetic animal in nano-aquaria, they provide some challenges for
new and undisciplined aquarists. In some applications they simply
provide too much light and UV, literally shocking and killing
your organisms. In other cases they make temperature
control difficult, over heating the tank to the point that your
animals, literally cook or causing so much evaporation that water
chemistry is affected. Certain precautions and automation such as
fan cooling, chillers and freshwater top off need to be taken into
account well before this type of lighting system is
purchased. LED (Light-emitting diode). While
many consider this to be new technology, it's been around for
practical purposes since the early 1960's. However in the
past decade LED technology has increased multiple folds and that
includes it's long awaited inclusion in our hobby. Many
hobbyists are put off by the initial costs of these systems but with
some simple math, you may calculate it to be the best long term
investment both financially and ecologically. LED's impart
considerably less heat than other lighting methods, meaning devices
such as chillers will either be on less or not be necessary at
all. Less heat means less evaporation, which means you're
using less water. Combining that with the fact that LED's use
less power overall and have exponentially longer bulb lives than the
other methods mentioned, the investment could be a lot easier to
swallow. What this technology means for nanos is the ability to
put more power, in a confined area with less worry, and the automation
some systems offer allow hobbyists to simulate more realistic lighting
patterns of their targeted bio-tope. Temperature Control The temperature of an aquarium is a
derivative of several factors, including but not limited to: pumps,
lighting, ambient room temperature, and event the material the actual
tank is made of. Temperature should be stable between 76 to 81 degrees
Fahrenheit. To keep the temperature stable you may need fans blowing
across the water surface to cool the tank and a heater to heat the
tank. Stocking the Tank Once again, you need a second tank to
quarantine new livestock. Adding them straight to the display is too
large a risk. Also keep in mind that livestock cannot be added the same
day the tank is set up; allow the tank to go through the nitrogen cycle
with the use of live rock - not fish. After the tank has stabilized
(4-6 weeks) addition of livestock can take place. Invertebrates and
Coral: If your nano is to be a reef tank the invertebrates should be the main focus of the tank. I would add the invertebrates first to allow them to adapt to the new environment without fish poking around. Some (there are many more!) inverts and coral that would make good nano reef inhabitants are:
Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata
amboinensis) Fire Shrimp (Lysmata
debelius) Sexy Shrimp (Thor
amboinensis) Cerith Snail (Cerithium
sp.) Nassarius Snail (Nassarius
sp.) Mushrooms (Rhodactis sp., Actinodiscus
sp., Ricordea sp.) Colonial Polyps (Zoanthus sp.,
Pachyclavularia sp., Leather Corals (Sarcopython and Sinularia
Genus)** **Add these with caution as their
potential size may warrant fragmentation Fish Choices Nanos are best kept without fish but
should you choose to keep them here are some good
choices: Blue Neon Goby (Elacatinus
oceanops) Golden Neon Goby (Elactinus
sp.) Clown Goby (Gobiodon
sp.) Red Head Goby (Elactinus
puncticulatus) Bi-color Blenny (Ecsenius
Bicolor) Rear Spot Blenny (Ecsenius
stigmatura) Two Spot Blenny (Ecsenius
bimaculatus) Chromis (Chromis
sp.)** False Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion
ocellaris)** True Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion
percula)** Firefish (Nemateleotris
magnifica) Hi-Fin Banded Goby (Stonogobiops
nematodes) Six Line Wrasse (Psuedocheilinus
hexataenia)** Royal Gramma (Gramma
loreto)** Bi-color Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis
paccagnellae)** Purple Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis
porphyreus)** **For the slightly Larger Nano Tank (20
gallons or more) Maintenance With Nanos, regular maintenance is key in keeping them stable. Water changes of 10 to 15 percent should be performed at least weekly with bi-weekly being optimal. Bi-weekly water testing is also a good idea. Ammonia and nitrites should always be at zero. Nitrate levels of 15 parts per million and less is acceptable though zero is best. pH should also be kept stable between 8.2 and 8.4; you can make this easier my maintaining high calcium levels (300ppm to 450ppm) and proper alkalinity levels between 8 and 12 dKH. Daily emptying of the protein skimmer collection cup is also recommended. Salinity/Specific Gravity should be checked daily as any evaporation at all in a nano tank could cause these to drastically swing. Should you have evaporation you can top off with freshwater: tap water treated with a de-chlorinator, distilled water or even better water from an RO/DI unit. Any freshwater will have to be pH adjusted before addition to the marine tank. Yearly (or more often) cleaning of the pumps is also a good precautionary measure.
Any disease treatment should be carried out in the quarantine tank and not the display. Be sure to identify the disease before medicating as the wrong medication or over medicating can be worse than the actual disease itself. On top of quarantining initially to prevent disease, other things to consider are pristine water conditions and a proper/varied diet.
Overall, nanos are tough to care for and traditionally not for beginners, but not impossible. If you still want one, the information above is a good start but by no means should be your only resource. This is intended as a starting source for you to get a wide scope idea of what the needs and preparations are for small marine aquaria. With anything you do,read the fine print and get the details before you jump in. There are lots of other articles and opinions. Gather as much information as possible, and form your own rules and guidelines.
Fenner, Robert: Small Marine Systems,
WWM Marks, Christopher: Setting up a
Nano-Reef, Nano Reef dot com articles Pro, Steven: An Ounce of Prevention is
Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything, Reef Keeping
Magazine, 2004 Borneman, Eric H., Aquarium Corals:
Selection, Husbandry and Natural History Fenner, Robert: The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist Calfo, Anthony: Water Changes/Exchanges,
2005 Calfo, Anthony: Book of Coral Propagation,
Volume I Wet Web Media Frequently Asked Questions re:
small set ups: http://www.google.com/custom?q=small+marine+tanks&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com And special Thanks to Sabrina F. for all of the encouragement and tips.Paper re: smaller marine systems 10/19/05 Hi Bob, <Adam> Adam Jackson here. I don't know if Sabrina had mentioned this to you (as she is with you currently) but after you encouraged her to write an article on bloaty goldfish (which I enjoyed by the way) she encouraged me to write an article of my own. <Yes... I encourage you to start... a writing habit... very enjoyable, gratifying... and a good way to build on your learning, reputation... what I did...> The article is on smaller marine systems A.K.A nano reefs. I understand that you already have an article on WetWebMedia and may not have use for it but I chose this subject after watching (in frustration because they ignored my advice) many friends/ex-clients fail because they chose a nano a as their first tank and rushed into it. <Good... If you would, I'd like to have you pen a series... the general/survey work you mention, and topics on Nano/Small Reefs... on Set-up, Lighting, Filtration, Stocking, Maintenance...> I just wanted to give my take/observations on why they fail and what you can do to make one succeed, though would rather not see a beginner start with anything less than a 40, that seems to be a consensus among many. Its a little longer than I though it would be but I tried writing it with a beginner in mind and not assuming that they know anything yet. I would love to e-mail it you, get your take on it if you have the time as I know you are quite busy. Thank you, Adam J <Thank you, BobF>
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