|
|
More FAQs about
Marine System Plumbing
Check-Valves, Back-Siphon Protectors
Related Articles: Plumbing Marine
Systems,
Plumbing Return Manifolds, Refugiums,
Related FAQs: Marine Plumbing 1,
Marine Plumbing 2, Marine Plumbing 3,
Marine Plumbing 4, Marine Plumbing 5,
Marine Plumbing 6, Plumbing 7,
Plumbing 8, Plumbing 9,
Plumbing 10, Plumbing 11,
Plumbing 12, Plumbing 13,
Plumbing 14,
Plumbing 15, Plumbing
16,
Plumbing 17, Plumbing 18,
Plumbing 19,
Plumbing 20,
& FAQs on:
Plans/Designs, Parts: Pipe,
Valves, Unions,
Tools, Solvents,
Use of Flexible Tubing, Leaks/Repairs,
& Holes & Drilling,
Durso Standpipes, Overflow Boxes,
Bubble Trouble, Plumbing Noise,
Make Up Water Systems,
Pumps, Plumbing,
Circulation,
Sumps, Refugiums, Marine
Circulation 2,
Gear Selection for Circulation,
Pump Problems, Fish-Only
Marine Set-ups,
Fish-Only Marine Systems 2, FOWLR/Fish
and Invertebrate Systems, Reef Systems,
Coldwater Systems, Small Systems,
Large Systems, Water Changes, Surge
Devices, |
Don't rely on these absolutely for stopping water... provide for
eventual failure... Where will the water go?
Make sure and plumb your check-valves in in the right direction...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/
PondSubWebIndex/chkvalvpds.htm |
Check Valves in Aquariums
5/13/09
Hello folks!
<Hello Frank.>
I had a quick question for you.
<Sure.>
I think I already know the answer but I wanted a second opinion.
Anyways, I recently replaced some plumbing on a used 75 gallon setup
that I bought off of craigslist. I basically replaced all the PVC as
well as a cut off valve and a check valve.
<Okay.>
My question is concerning the check valve. I bought everything at Lowes
and the only check valve they had was the type with a spring mechanism
instead of the flapper type that was on the old plumbing. It just dawned
on me that the spring will become corroded by the salt water and then
the water will be constantly passing by a rusty piece of metal.
<It will in time, yes.>
Will this pollute my tank water in some way?
<Not to a noticeable extent.>
Should I replace it with something else?
<Yes! A straight piece of pipe!>
I have not put any livestock in the tank as of yet. Only live rock and
sand. Do I need to change out the water also?
<Not due to this.>
That is all I need to know today and thanks again for all the knowledge
you pass on to people like myself.
<Well, the bottom line is that any type of check valve cannot and should
not be trusted to function in this application. Basically it is a matter
of not if, but when the thing will get stuck open. A snail, algae,
calcareous material, etc. will stick the thing open. The bottom line it
is far better to have the extra volume in your sump to handle any siphon
or drain down from the tank when the power is off.>
Frank Stubblefield
<Scott V.>
Potential Back-Siphon Problem! (Nah…I Don’t Think So) – 08/20/08
To WWM,
<<Greetings Ed>>
My name is Ed and I would like to thank
you for all the information you provide. It has been a tremendous help.
<<Always good to hear…from all the crew, you’re quite welcome>>
I am
upgrading my 60 gal. reef tank to a custom built acrylic 120 gal. reef
with a 30 gal. sump / refugium combo.
<<Very nice>>
The tank has
two 1.5 inch drains and three 3/4 returns across the top of the back
wall of the tank.
<<Ah…this is excellent! So good NOT to hear the all
too common “single 1” drain” story>>
I would like to add an
additional return at the lower portion of the back wall in the center.
<<I see… Will you be doing this, or the tank fabricator? Some
advice/precautions if doing it yourself for the first time. Be sure to
use a “bi-metal” hole saw…and use care not to overheat the cut…or
inadvertently stopping the cut before removing the blade as there is a
chance of “sticking” the saw in the hole>>
Here is what I propose to
do:
1) Drill another 3/4 inch hole near the bottom center of the back
wall below the existing hole near the top.
<<Actually… If you’re
planning to install a ¾” bulkhead you will need to drill a hole about 1
5/8” in size. This can vary a bit depending on the particular bulkhead
so be sure to check>>
2) Use SCH 40 PVC to plumb up to the upper hole
first. The 3/4 inch pipe will be traveling vertically to a 90 deg.
elbow. Then horizontally to the center hole.
3) At the upper center
hole use a 90 deg. side out (a side out is a 90 deg. elbow with a third
port coming out of the same corner generally used in tight corner
applications where plumbing is coming down an inside corner of a cabinet
and needs to go in two different directions).
<<Understood>>
4) At
the side out plumb back down to the new hole at the bottom back wall of
the tank ending with a 90 deg. elbow to return flow to tank.
<<I see…
I do think this configuration will result in the bulk of the flow
exiting the top hole…with little being diverted to the bottom>>
Both
of the middle returns will be controlled by one main line. My concern
is, if I lose power (which is not likely because I have a whole house
back-up generator but I want to be triple safe) will the water siphon
back into the sump?
<<Unless the top hole becomes plugged this
shouldn’t be a problem. Once the water clears the top hole it should act
as a siphon break. But like anything…do be sure to test this>>
My
assumption is that since both upper and lower drains are connected to
the same line, once the water level gets below the first drain at the
top that should create an air break and stop the siphon.
<<Ah! Yes
indeed>>
Assuming I haven't completely confused you, does it matter
what height I put the main feed to the two returns?
<<I understand
the two-hole configuration fine, but not sure I follow re your question
about the “main feed.” You state above the line would travel vertically
to the upper hole and then make a 90-degree turn to the bulkhead>>
I
would like to have a ball valve for each return,
<<A fine idea…to be
able to temper flow on the output side of the pump(s). But I recommend
you use “gate-valves” as opposed to “ball-valves” as these provide a
more finite “tuning” capability>>
but to do that the main feed needs
to be across the middle of the tank with a tee to feed the upper and
lower returns.
<<Oh…okay…this should work better than what I
originally envisioned re diverting adequate flow to each return>>
Thank you for your help,
Ed
<<Happy to assist… And do write me
back if you need/wish to discuss any of this further. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Potential Back-Siphon Problem! (Nah…I Don’t Think So) – 09/01/08
Just an update on the siphon issue.
<<Great!>>
I plumbed the tank
with the 3/4 inch pipe coming up to midpoint of the tank. At that point
there is a 90 deg. elbow taking the pipe horizontally to a tee. One line
going to the top of the tank and one to the bottom with a ball valve on
each. Each line ending with another 90 deg. elbow into the bulkhead.
<<Okay>>
I filled the tank for the leak test and turned off the pump.
As I feared, even after the water level cleared the upper return, I
still had a siphon problem with the lower return.
<<Mmm, I see…this
is likely due to the pipe only “coming up to midpoint of the tank” thus
keeping the “juncture” leading to the bottom bulkhead well below the
water line. Perhaps if you run the return line to the “top” of the tank
and use the 90-degree side-out fitting to feed the bottom bulkhead; as
you described in your first email, this will be sufficient to break the
siphon>>
Apparently, there is enough water pressure to force the
water to go up the pipe and flood the sump!
<<So it seems>>
Help!
<<It would help greatly to see pictures/diagrams of the plumbing
arrangement>>
If I re-plumb the line to go all the way to the top of
the tank and work its way back down to the two bulkheads, will I have
the same issue?
<<Is worth the try, don’t you think? Bringing the
return line up to/above the top bulkhead should facilitate with breaking
the siphon when the water level falls to/falls below the top bulkhead>>
I am looking forward to any suggestions, since I already have the tank
drilled.
Thanks, Ed
<<Try rerunning/experimenting with the routing
of the return line and the positions of the fittings as this is the
easiest and best option at this stage. Worse-case, you can always “plug”
the bottom bulkhead…or…a better option would be to use it to feed a
“true” closed-loop. Good luck and please do keep me posted/come back to
discuss options. Regards, EricR>>
R2: Potential Back-Siphon Problem! (Nah…I Don’t Think So) – 09/08/08
Success! Eric, my siphon problem has been solved.
<<Ah, very good to
hear my friend! And do please accept my apologies for the tardy reply. I
was away at MACNA where I attended some excellent lectures, met up/got
reacquainted with some good friends, and killed a few billion brain
cells while hanging out with Bob. I guess one of these days I’m going to
have to break down and get me a laptop to take on these and other
adventures to help keep up with queries>>
After a lot of staring at
my failed set up, I came up with a new configuration for the return.
<<Do tell…>>
The new design eliminated the 90 deg. side out from my
first configuration and the flow problems you suggested may occur.
<<Excellent!>>
I don't have the resources to give you a diagram so I
will do my best to describe the plumbing.
<<Very good>>
The 3/4
inch return pipe goes vertically from the pump to the top of the tank to
a 90 degree elbow. The line then travels horizontally to a tee. One side
keeps going horizontally to a valve and then to a 90 deg. elbow into the
tank. The other part of the tee travels back down to the level of the
lower bulkhead to a 90 deg. elbow. At the elbow the pipe travels
horizontally to another valve and then to the final 90 deg. elbow and
into the tank. With this design I am able to regulate flow to each
return accordingly.
<<Sounds fine… And hopefully your pump is large
enough to still produce some useful flow against all that
headloss…though easy enough to upsize if need be>>
More importantly,
when the pump was turned off, I was able to break siphon to both
returns.
<<Ah yes…just as we surmised in our last exchange. I’m happy
to hear it worked for you!>>
Hurray!
<<Indeed!>>
Thank you for
all of your help, Ed
<<The pleasure is mine…thank you for all the
feedback. The back-and-forth exchange does much toward helping others
who will read this down the line to learn what does/does not work.
Cheers mate, Eric Russell>>
Emergency
Check Valve failed... New tank? 7/7/08
I had a 90
gallon reef aquarium running fine for 5 years. The power went out, check
valve didn't work the tank back siphoned into sump and drained all but 4
inches of water.
<Very sorry to hear about this, check valves will
fail, you are the fourth instance I have heard of this week alone!>
I
saved fish and corals they are now in a 24 gallon nano reef set up.
<Yikes!! I hope it is not too many fish/corals, and not too large.>
I
used the same water as in the tank, but added new live sand and TLC to
help cycle. I am getting an Oceanic 144 gallon half circle tank in a
couple of days.
<Nice.>
I need to have it running like my old reef
tank without going through the full 6 week cycle. I was thinking adding
live sand and TLC with new water along with my live rock. Is this
possible to complete in a short time?
<Yes, it is possible, if
nothing else your livestock will fair better in the larger tank anyway,
more stability and dilution of pollutants. Do not add any new, possibly
uncured rock for a while. Your sand can be reused if either kept alive
or washed.>
I don't know how long my fish and coral can last in the
nano cube.
<Likely not too long coming from such a well established
90 gallon, I am surprised it all fit! For the time being I would
consider refilling the 90 and putting the livestock back in it (if the
tank/stand are not damaged). All you have right now is a holding tank,
might as well make it bigger if you can. Good luck, Scott V.>
Sump/Overflow Question…Best Way To Temper Flow? – 09/01/07
Good
morning all,
<<Greetings Daryl…evening now>>
Thank you again for
the world of info on your website.
<<A collaborative effort…we hope
you find it useful>>
I hope this finds you well.
<<Doing fine,
thank you>>
I recently moved my 55-gallon FOWLR to a 75-gallon
aquarium with an overflow. In the 55 I was using a canister filter and
skimmer; the 75 is my first venture with a sump.
<<A worthwhile
change/upgrade>>
I am currently using my CPR hang-on skimmer with the
75, planning on eventually using a skimmer in the sump instead.
<<Ah
good…perhaps one from my current fave, Euro-Reef>>
The sump is a
Megaflow 2, which is sized for a 75-gallon aquarium; my return pump is
rated at 950 gal/hr. Sump intake is through a 1 1/4" hose and is output
through a 3/4" hose connected to the pump (not split). My question is
this: The volume of water coming into the sump tends to overflow the
prefilter pad daily; I rinse or change the pad, which quiets things down
for awhile, but in about 24 hours I am back to overflowing the pad.
<<Perhaps a coarser pad would not clog to quickly>>
The water in the
overflow bubble chamber is approximately 3/4" above the prefilter tray,
which seems (to me) a bit much.
<<Why, what problem is this
causing?>>
What is the best way to lessen the water coming in to the
sump?
<<Reduce the volume of water being pumped up to the tank>>
Am I better off installing a valve on the intake to lessen the flow into
the sump, or would I be better off splitting the return to the tank?
<<Don’t place a valve on the drain line, but rather, install a
“gate-valve” on the “output” side of the pump to temper flow as needed>>
My guess is that splitting the return would be a better option, as I
would also increase water movement with a second output, but I would
very much appreciate your opinion.
<<You can split the return if you
wish…but do still install the valve for best “control” of the flow
rate>>
Thank you in advance for all your help.
<<Happy to assist>>
All good wishes,
Daryl
<<And to you in kind. EricR>>
Re: Sump/Overflow Question…Best Way To Temper Flow? – 09/03/07
Sorry to bother again...very quick follow up:
<<Hey Daryl! No bother
mate>>
I have a check-valve on the output of my pump.
<<Is a
mistake to use/rely on these devices in my opinion. Much better to
design/install plumbing such that the sump will handle all transient
water volume. The check-valve imparts significant resistance requiring a
larger pump (and associated cost/energy consumption) than normal, and
will most assuredly fail at some point>>
If I install a gate-valve,
should it go inline before or after the check valve? I would assume the
gate-valve would come first, followed by the check-valve...
<<This
might be fine (If you are determined to keep the check-valve). Though
depending on the size/type of valve and how much you need to reduce
flow, you may find that the valve stops all flow before the desired rate
is reached if the gate-valve is installed first. This is probably of
little concern, but a bit of experimentation will tell>>
Thank you
again, and all good wishes,
Daryl
<<Happy to help. EricR>>
Check Valves... SW Ap. - 03/25/07
Hi Bob,
Last email
you answered was regarding setting up a business with a partner. I
don't have a partner, but I am working with a friend through his retail
shop. Anyway, my question to you is - what are your feelings regarding
check valves?
<Mmmm, have their place, utility...>
I have
recently put up a 175 gal with an external Dart sequence 38. I have
restructured the returns so that both holes in the overflow box are used
for overflow; therefore I added 4 check valves on the 4 return pipes. I
am catching a lot of flack from the reef club telling me they will
malfunction and cause major problems; however, my friend who I am
working with has been installing them on large customer tanks for at
least 15 years with no failures. What is your take?
<Are these
valves discharging below... much below the water line? If not, I don't
think this is an issue... If your sump will handle the transit volume...
the water in play... as if the check valves weren't present. BobF>
Thanks,
Vicki Check Valve
<Hello>
I purchased a
check valve from an online aquatic retailer for my saltwater setup. The
one I received is a spring type. I inquired into it's safety due to
it's application and I was told it would be fine since the insides were
stainless steel. I'm looking for a second opinion, any words of wisdom
to pass along would be greatly appreciated.
Nick
<Nick,
stainless steel is a great metal for freshwater but it does corrode
faster in saltwater, and in a captive system I would look for either a
titanium spring model or find a sealed check valve that immerses the
stainless steel springs in oil. There are several different ways to
make them, and most industrial supply stores will have such things if
the LFS in your area do not have them. If you must use the check valve
you have now please watch it closely as over a few months or weeks
depending on the metal, it may rust and will start killing fish and
corals.>
<Justin (Jager)> Plumbing siphon break
Dear
WWM crew.
<Stepahn>
I was doing my finishing touches on my
plumbing. I have two manifolds each with its own pump that are hooked up
in the sump below the tank.
<The pumps themselves are there I take
it, not the manifolds>
I ran into a problem with one of the
manifold. This one is a loop of flexible PVC and six tee's tied to six
bulkheads. These bulkheads are all drilled thru the back wall of the
tank. My water input is situated near the bottom of the PVC loop with a
union. I have an additional tee with a fitting that is just above to
water to break the siphon.
<Oh oh...>
I turned on the pump and
water seem to be running fine thru the manifold until I turned the pump
off. I heard a expected sucking noise from the siphon followed by a
gushing water sound pushing back into the pump. Water in the sump
started to rise quickly until I was able to stop the flow with the ball
valve.
<Yikes>
And for my questions:
Is the location of the
union connection (below the water level) in the wrong location? Should
it be at the top?
<Yes... needs to be above the upper tank water
level, or at least at the absolute lowest level you want the upper tank
to drain to>
I am saying that because the other manifold is hooked
up with a union at top and that
siphon break works.
I was
thinking maybe I should create a close circulation of loop instead. How
such a thing be hooked up? My guess is to giving up the stand pipe in
the overflow chamber, connecting the bottom bulkhead to pump's intake?
<This is one way>
If so, wouldn't it suck all the water out of the
overflow considering that my pump is 2100 gal./hr.
<No... will only
pump/suck the water that is higher/over the overflow>
I' not sure
what other aquarist hook up their closed loops but I don't think a
bulkhead on the back wall of the tank would be the answer here. I am
afraid with this way the animals would get stuck on the screen of the
intake.
<Me too... a reason for having more than one overflow, using
good screens, hiding these pieces of pipe behind structure (rock et
al.)>
Thanks for the fatherly advise as always.
Sincerely
Stepahn Gaudrau
<Do you have a drawing, clear photo of what you
have, and what you hope to do? Please send along if so. Bob Fenner>
Re: siphon break
This raises other questions. If I were to use
the 2100 gal./hr to hook up a closed loop, does that diminish the
turnover rate?
<Yes, to some extent>
Originally two pumps were
at the sump level.
<Mmm, for the sake of clarity, completeness here,
it only matters what the respective water levels are in the tanks>
The tank is 175gal. sump/refugium is 75 gal. and external upstream
refugium is 45 gal. This is almost 300 gal of total water. Am I turning
this 300 water 20x or is it just the tank itself?
<For the tank's
consideration, just itself... for other containers, each one
respectively>
that would mean pump capable of pushing 6300 gal.? I
am afraid to eliminate a valuable overflow drain. Can one still have the
stand pipe plus an intake for the pump? Are there other ways to hook up
a closed loop system?
<There are... From what I understand from your
messages, I would not abandon the current bulkhead/through-puts (and
have a hole drilled, fitted for an overflow standpipe), BUT rig an
external rigid pipe manifold/collective drain from them (outside the
tank) with one or more tee risers as siphon breaks... with one (or two)
drain lines going from this overflow manifold to the lower tank... and
just some (one or two capacities/hour of the water from the lowermost
tank/sump to the upstream refugium. Does this make sense? Bob Fenner>
Re: siphon break
This raises other questions. If I were to use
the 2100 gal./hr to hook up a closed loop, does that diminish the
turnover rate?
<Yes, to some extent>
Originally two pumps were
at the sump level.
<Mmm, for the sake of clarity, completeness here,
it only matters what the respective water levels are in the tanks>
The tank is 175gal. sump/refugium is 75 gal. and external upstream
refugium is 45 gal. This is almost 300 gal of total water. Am I turning
this 300 water 20x or is it just the tank itself?
<For the tank's
consideration, just itself... for other containers, each one
respectively>
that would mean pump capable of pushing 6300 gal.? I
am afraid to eliminate a valuable overflow drain. Can one still have the
stand pipe plus an intake for the pump? Are there other ways to hook up
a closed loop system?
<There are... From what I understand from your
messages, I would not abandon the current bulkhead/through-puts (and
have a hole drilled, fitted for an overflow standpipe), BUT rig an
external rigid pipe manifold/collective drain from them (outside the
tank) with one or more tee risers as siphon breaks... with one (or two)
drain lines going from this overflow manifold to the lower tank... and
just some (one or two capacities/hour of the water from the lowermost
tank/sump to the upstream refugium. Does this make sense? Bob Fenner>
Check valve question
I just purchased a B&K check valve. after I
bought it I found out that it has a stainless steel spring. A Lowe's
home center special. will this be ok? and can it be mounted
horizontally? ........thanks for your help.....ed
<Okay for what? Not
saltwater. Bob Fenner>
Check valve question
ok.. what
type of check valve do you recommend and do you know of a source
where I may purchase one?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/chkvalvpds.htm
Bob
Fenner> Metal Inside Check Valve
Hi,
I'm planning on
using a check valve for my return line from the sump to the main tank.
When I got the check valve home, I noticed that it has a piece of metal
and a metal screw inside of it. Is this safe to use?
Much thanks for
a fantastic web-site!
Greg
< I wouldn’t use this just to be
safe. There are check valves made for this application, check our
sponsors for these. Cody> Re: Metal Inside Check Valve
Hi Thanks for the great advice. One last question :)
I woke up this
morning to find a piece of hardened silicone sealant floating in my
tank. I did some PVC work for my sump and used silicone sealant, but I
let it cure for 24 hours before using it. Is this something I should be
concerned with? Do you think my water in contaminated?
Regards,
Greg
<I wouldn't worry about it. Cody> Anti siphon...
Bob-
I will be re-plumbing my tank soon and recall reading about a
way to keep the tank from siphoning the water back in to the sump,
without the use of a check valve, should there be a power outage. I
think it involved drilling a small hole somewhere but, that's about all
I can remember.
Can you help? Thanks.
Andy
<There are a few
ways this can be done... If you're pretty sure you're not going to
regret drilling/fitting the tank (rather than fitting an over-flow box
like the ones made by CPR (Link below), then I would cut (or have cut if
a glass tank) a circular opening, fitted on both sides with a gasket, a
bit of silicone sealer (100% designated, like the ones sold for aquarium
use) smeared on the gaskets, as big a through hull fitting as you think
you'll ever need/want... (at least 1 1/2" if not 2"...) for the
overflow... a small section of pipe attached to the back side throat of
the thru hull and then a "Tee" fitted vertically, connecting the through
hull and the drop section of plumbing to your sump... with the up part
of the Tee as an aspirator (to break the siphon action)... and another
tee or street "El" in the tank with a "hand pushed in" (i.e. not
solvented or threaded) piece of pipe going to the bottom (screened some
how)... if a Tee inside with the upper part of the tee acting as an
alternate over flow (lest the bottom intake get clogged... Anyone
capable of drawing such things on these devices?
This is the best of
many possibilities... Would attach, do advise the use of an alternate
overflow outlet... either another cut through fitting or an overflow
box. CPR, Oz Reef (great site for DIY aquarists) links can be found on
the pages of the same name on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner>
New Pump Plumbing Question
Hi Bob,
I've had a frustrating day
(and evening) installing a new pump, and I desperately could use some
wise guidance. Here's the deal: I have a Mag 12 pump on my 300 gallon
reef tank. The flow rate for the tank is obviously too low, so I went
ahead a picked up an Iwaki pump. (MD100RLT). I hooked up the Iwaki, and
I find the flow rate to be ridiculously low . . . and I mean looooooow .
. . as in my dog drinks water faster. So, I hooked the Mag back up in
the interim, and I am seeking a little guidance. Maybe you know the
answer right off? ;-)
<Mmm, don't even know the questions yet>
Here is the plumbing situation: The Mag 12 has 3/4" fittings. It is
immersed in my sump, sucks water up, pushes it through a "T" connector,
and pumps the water up each side of the tank. It uses 1" OD / 3/4" ID
tubing. The flow rate, while certainly not optimal, is not all that bad.
<Okay>
The Iwaki has 1" fittings. Being an outside pump, I added a 1"
bulkhead <Outside diameter I'll trust/assume... one does NOT want to
bush down intake fittings>
fitting in the sump. I made sure not to
reduce the 1" inflow into the pump, as I've heard doing so can give
flow-rate problems.
<Oh! Yes>
It then pumps through a 1" check
valve.
<Why a check valve here? Your sump won't accommodate the
volume that might drain back if the pump, power failed? What type of
check valve? Spring, ball types are trouble (compared to swing)... some
coverage on these on WWM, under pond plumbing.>
I then use a
constrictor to reduce to use the already-there-for-the-Mag 1" OD / 3/4"
ID tubing. I am thinking perhaps
I should just rip out the small
tubing and keep the whole setup from Iwaki-to-tank at 1". I don't want
to rip out the old stuff unless I know that is the problem, however.
<... ah... and all this on a three hundred gallon system...>
Bob,
what's my problem? Why is that Iwaki pumping so slooooooooooooooooow?
<A few things... but most all having to do with the plumbing
arrangement... "T's" are trouble with pumps that are engineered for flow
versus pressure... as are restrictions/induced drag in small diameter
conduits... But, skipping ahead... do re-design your plumbing and
consider getting/using a direct drive pump... like an RK2 product
instead... Maybe make up a diagram of what you have in mind plumbing
wise, and we'll chat this up. Bob Fenner>
Thanks a million!
Dale.
Re: New Pump Plumbing Question
Bob,
Thanks for the advice . .
. It was the check valve.
Dale.
<Ah... suspected as much. Bob
Fenner>
|
|
