Marine Quarantine Tank; Demands on the Crew…Poor English, again…. 3-24-08
I am finally doing the right thing and setting <<setting>> up a quarentine <<quarantine.>> tank for my 55 and 30 gal tanks. Both tanks are good <<in?>> parameters. Amonnia <<Ammonia>> =0, Nitrate=0, Nitrite= 0, ph=8.2, etc.
<<Acceptable.>>
Any ways my question is this: I bought a ten gallon tank, with a small heater, and a hang on the back power filter for the ten gal. all <<All.>> from Wal-Mart. Nice <<Nice.>> and cheap and easy. I plan to use the tank to keep new fish in for 2 - 4 weeks before putting into main tank.
<<4 weeks please, some illnesses have loner incubation periods than others.>>
My question is if I <<I>> set this up and use the ten gallons that go into my QT from my 55 gal which has been established for a year and 3 months, when I <<I.>> put the water in the tank do I have to let it cycle for a couple weeks or is it good to go as in I can put a new fish in the next day.
<<With a quarantine tank there is a possibility that you may need to use medication, in which case any nitrifying bacteria would be eliminated anyway, so in essence you may cycle the tank for nothing. Your best bet, and my recommendation, is to perform small daily water changes while the animals are in quarantine and to siphon the bottom of the tank of detritus (run it bear bottom).>>
Since the water is already cycled can I use the ten gal right away or do I have to wait. <<?>>
<<See above.>>
and <<And>> if I do how long.
<<See above.>>
or <<Or>> should I put half new saltwater and half established saltwater from my 55 gal and if I do this is it ready to use right away.
<<I would use water form the display when starting it up, freshly mixed water for the changes.>>
ATTN: I do not mean to be rude but please do not refure me to your website, I have looked and would just like this simple question answered, please.
<<It never ceases to amaze me…I simply cannot fathom making demands of a free service that is powered by volunteers. With all due respect Derek I would be more obliged to comply with this command if it was obvious through your questions that you exhausted WWM and the net through research before sending in this query, it is apparent to me that you did not. Here are detailed answers for you, all of which could be had through a simple search engine;
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm
…And please in the future, proof read and spell check your queries before submitting them, I recall many a time where BobF, has encouraged us to reject the questions until they comply with proper English/grammar…I will fix it for you this time.>><Amen! RMF>
Thank you,
<<Welcome.>>
Derek
<<Adam J.>>

Copper/Removal  QT    2/15/08
Hi!
<Hello Shawn>
I recently had a sick Flame Angel in my QT and treated with copper. After finishing the treatment I sterilized the tank, filter, PVC and all items in the tank. There was no live rock, sand or any porous material in the system. My question is, will the complete sterilizing and cleaning remove the copper so I can QT invertebrates in the future.
<Should take care of most if not all. Would be a good idea to run activated carbon in the system for a week or two to remove any residual that may be there.>
Thanks in advance
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Shawn

Keeping Spare Tanks, QT let's say  02/11/2008
Good evening Bob & Crew,
<<G'morning. Andrew here>>
I trust this finds you all well, and buried under less snow than I have right now.
A question unrelated to sick fish, corals, etc., if you don't mind. Along the way I have managed to accumulate a few extra tanks, as I'm sure many have, and am wondering how best to keep them in "ready" condition. I (well, the fish really) learned the hard way that you can't just fill up an empty tank, even a bare one, to QT or treat without the risk of the tank cycling, and fish dying. I lost a beautiful Butterfly this way to an unexpected ammonia spike in a brand new bare bottomed tank that only had a piece of PVC in it.
<<The best ready condition you can keep them, is the tank stored away and kept sealed from dust or debris and filter media held in the sump or display tank to keep the media cycled and colonised. This way, you will have an instantly cycled QT or hospital tank for your use>>
My 215 gallon dbl. overflow Oceanic Starfire display tank has arrived (oh ya!) and these extra tanks will come in handy for the change-over from my current 72 gallon. (yes, some of your students actually do get the upgrade tanks they write about in so many letters)
<<Sounds like a lovely new aquarium>>
I have 2 spare tanks with LR and sand for QT, and one spare bare bottom for treatment. They all have hoods, lights, filters, etc.
<<Don't see any need to have live rock or sand in the quarantine tank. If an, unknown at the time, infected fish is added to the quarantine tank, the risk is there for a parasite to go from fish to rock or sand, and you will know nothing of this. Always best to keep it bare with some PVC pipe work for hiding places>>
Do I really need to keep them running all the time just to keep them ready to QT those impulse
purchases or be ready for some "just in case" moment? Does a week a month work, or is there any schedule that works? Also, will a LR and sand tank stay "ready" even if it is running, but without any fish in it?
<<Question answered about about housing filter media in the main tank, which will give you an instantly cycled aquarium. This way, you don't have to keep the other tanks running when there is no inhabitants in them>>
Just trying to be prepared. That's why I have a laptop and a big shovel.
Thank you for your time. Mike from Canada, eh.
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>

QT Tank – 01/25/08
Hey Eric,
<<Hey Don>>
The fish went to toilet heaven
<<Not a good practice mate, possibility of introducing disease/pathogens…best to bury, or just bag’em and toss with the trash>>
and my QT still has cycled water, it looks like from my readings the formalin didn't kill all the bacteria in the tank/sump so I want to just let it run fallow but how long till the crypt is gone and I can add 1 fish and try again?
<<Minimum 6-weeks… Or tear-down, bleach, rinse well, and restart with water from the display. Do also read here and among the related links in blue (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm)>>
Appreciate your time and resources!
<<Quite welcome>>
Oh btw I don't drink, I'm on wonder drugs J from the doctor.
Don V.
<<Be chatting. EricR>>

QT Setup 1/10/08
Good morning from Boston!
<Hello Boston>
I hope this finds everyone at WWM well. As always, thank you for all your time and effort with WWM. I don't know what many of us would do without you!
<We try...>
My question is probably a very simple one. I have a 55 gallon FOWLR tank that is about a year and a half old. As is my usual practice, I am in the middle of starting up my QT tank for a planned new arrival. Last night I added 50% tank water from my main tank to the 50% "new" water that has been circulating in the QT for a week. I have a sponge that has been seeding in my main for a week or so that I planned to add to the QT when I bring home the new fish.
<Ok>
Here is my dilemma: The heater in my QT died last night, so the temp in the QT this morning was down in the 60s. Do I now have to get rid of this water and start again because of the temperature drop?
<No>
(I'm thinking any beneficial organisms in the water that came from the main are now dead) Luckily, the sponge is still in the main tank.
<There are not really many organisms in the water that are of a concern here, your water should be fine to use once you warm it back up.>
I had planned on using Seachem's Stability product to cover my bases in case the sponge doesn't have enough life in it to support the QT.
<Ok>
Thank you so much for your time.
Regards,
Kim
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Quarantine questions, sys.  01/08/2008
Hi
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
I've just got a few quick questions about quarantine tanks for you. I just bought a 12g Aquapod nano-style aquarium to serve as a quarantine tank for my 75g reef system. It's got integrated overflow filtration and its own lighting system (27wx2 PC lighting, split between daylight and actinic, and an LED moonlight). From browsing your quarantine articles the consensus seems to be to keep it bare-bottomed and to cycle it by placing the sponge filter into the sump of my main system for a while and also to add some of my main-system water. Questions:
1. How long should the sponge filter be left in my main system to be colonized before I add any fish? And how long should it remain in the quarantine tank before the fish are added?
<< about 3 - 4 weeks to get a good colony of bacteria on the filter, QT tank will be instantly cycled, so, add fish straight away, sterilize media after QT finished>>
2. Are small snails (e.g., Nassarius or Nerite) OK for mop-up duty or should I just clean it myself?
<<Clean yourself>>
3. Is LR OK, or should I keep it out?
<<Leave out>>
4. And is it OK to grow macroalgae in there (I have an S. doliatus in my main system and I thought it might be nice to grow him some fresh greens)?
<<No, minimal setup for QT>>
Finally, I know you also advocate quarantining corals. Is this lighting sufficient for SPS and other shallow water corals? Most come from the MH-lit tanks at my LFS and go straight into my own MH-lit system right away. Is it worth it to subject them to PC lighting in the quarantine for a few weeks or, all things considered, should I bypass this step?
<<Aim to match intensity of your display tank, please read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quarinverts.htm>>
Thanks and Happy New Year!
Ed
<<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>

Quarantine and Fuge joined 12/10/07
Hey all, I'm trying to setup a quarantine and conserve on the amount of equipment that I need to purchase (not always a good idea I know).
<OK.>
We're at the point where we would like to start adding more fish to our tank (150 gal) and need a quarantine.
<Good idea.>
We currently have two small tanks not in use: 7 gallon nano and 10 gallon rectangle glass tank. I'm thinking of using the 10 as a refugium to harvest copepods/algae. And the 7 gallon nano as the quarantine (I don't plan on adding any fish larger then 4 inches).
<I would use the 10 as a quarantine tank over the 7, they are cheap enough.>
Is it a bad idea to connect the two of these tanks via simple overflow (open loop I guess) so I can share equipment like small skimmer, heater, small chiller. My concern is that if I do introduce something like a disease or ick into the system...I will have to tear down the fuge and start over.
<This is the problem. You will not only export any malignancies to the display, but you will need to let the refugium/quarantine run fallow or need to sterilize. Also, consider any treatment you will need to administer in the quarantine tank.>
Or is it likely that I would just need to wait it out without a host in the QT before adding another newbie to the quarantine.
<This too. A quarantine tank should ideally be able to be sterilized.>
Is this just more work then necessary?
<I think so.>
Have any alternative ideas?
<Hook the refugium into your main tank. Leave the quarantine standing alone. Good luck, Scott V.>

Setting Up a QT 11/2/07
Hi again,
<Hello>
I'm setting up a 20 gallon QT tank for new arrivals.
<Nice>
I have a Magnum 250 HOT that is currently not in use. I plan on keeping the sponge filter from the magnum canister in my sump to build the bio-filter.
<Hopeful these are cheap to replace since they will have to be thrown out after each use.>
I only have 2 pieces of PVC and a heater in the tank. Do you think the sponge in the magnum will provide enough bio filtration to QT one or two small fish (e.g. banner cardinal, green Chromis)?
<Should if properly seeded, could add some marine Bio-Spira if need arises.>
How long should I keep the sponge in the established tank's sump to establish a good bacteria colony?
<Couple weeks should do.>
Lastly, I was planning on using 50% newly mixed water with 50% water from changes with established tank. Is that an appropriate ratio?
<Yes>
Mike
<Chris>

Quarantine... tank size  10/29/07
Hello,
<Hi Joe>
I have a Powder Brown Tang QTed in a 20 gallon, Is this too small a tank to keep it in for the 30 day QT process or should I move it into a 40 gallon tank. He's about 5 inch's long.
<Definitely move to the 40.>
If the tank is too small can it get stress out and get ich.
<Fish under stress and poor diet are more prone to this.>
thanks, Joe
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Quarantining and dipping  7/22/07
Hello
Sorry to bother you
<No bother :-)>
with something there's a lot of information on but I'm new to the hobby and all the information is confusing me. I am a very simple person. Please bear with me and read through this and help a simple person out. I would like to use the best method of quarantining and FW dipping. So from what I've read the quarantining comes first. And this lasts for 14 to 21 days? For quarantining new arrivals I don't medicate just isolate and observe.
<correct>
To do that I float the bag in the main tank for 15 min.s to get the temp the same, then I net scoop the fish out and straight into quarantine (no dip first?).
<Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dipratuse.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm>
In the quarantine tank is half saltwater from the main tank and half fresh, filtered only with a sponge from the main and some stress zyme to help the biological filter and ornaments to give it some covering and an air stone to give it a decent amount of oxygen. And light should be dull. For the next 3-2 weeks I should do daily water changes of what percent?
<If the water changes are daily and the bioload moderate, I'd say 5 to 10%. But this depends a lot on the bioload of the quarantine tank. Bigger or smaller water changes might be needed. Monitor your ammonia and no2 daily so that you know you're doing enough.>
Then after the weeks have passed I do a fresh water dip preferably with 5% methylene blue for 3-5 min.s or 15 min.s with an air stone in the bucket that has been going for 2hours first. Which one is best? If they're even right. And is using baking soda with the methylene blue right? And how much baking soda for 1 gallon? Then it's another scoop and into the main tank with the light off to prevent extra stress.
<You use the baking soda to adjust the alkalinity (reduces stress). For more info on methane blue dips: http://wetwebmedia.com/methblueart.htm>
Sorry for the long, attempted step by step.
<Sorry I can't give you more specific step-by-step instructions. The truth is that a lot of it is going to be your personal choice/preference and the details of your setup. For instance, I don't know how big your quarantine tank is.>
One last thing. I recently had my quarantine tank set up as a hospital tank recently. Today I bleached everything, rinsed a few times
<With dechlorinator I hope!>
and left in the sun to dry. Then I set it all back up to use as a quarantine tank tomorrow and have it running with the water and filter from my main tank. When I tested the nitrite level it was at .2, which I don't quite understand since there should be no waste, so no ammonia and therefore no nitrite.
<Did you use tap water?>
What am I missing here?
<If you didn't use distilled or RO/DI water then it's quite possible that the nitrites were in the water from the get-go.>
I didn't think it needs to cycle when it has the stuff from the main tank in it.
This will be my first quarantine and I really don't want another dead fish (died because I didn't quarantine when I got it), now I know better and want to do it right.
<You won't regret it. Just review some of the WWM info pages on quarantine tanks again. Sometimes it takes going over things a few times before it starts to all come together (at least for me anyway).>
Thank you so much for your time and help. I really appreciate it.
Katie Paulsen
<De nada,
Sara M.>

What went wrong... Naso mystery death, too small QT      8/26/07
Hey WWM crew
I would like to start off by giving all of you there a big thanks for all the help giving to people on this site.
<cool :-) >
It has been extremely helpful to me, making me a much better aquarist. After reading all the misfortunes of people by not using a quarantine tank and or dips, and learning how easy it is, I've been convinced to change my ways.
I set up a 10 gal tank and used the water from my main tank, as well as an established canister filter, and a heater. There is no gravel, or anything else in the tank, temp is the exact same as the main tank and the tank is covered. My first fish was a Naso tang. I drip acclimated him, gave him a methylene blue dip (using the directions on the bottle) and put him in the tank making sure there was no temp difference. A towel was placed around the outside of the tank to give the fish some since of security.
<Hmmm...I'd only suggest the quarantine tank be bigger and have some PVC pipe parts or ceramic pots to provide sleeping and hiding places.>
Three days later he was dead. He was found between the heater and the glass halfway down the tank.
<Is there any chance he got stuck?>
I had not performed any water changes in this three days and the quarantine tank is in the bathroom. The store I bought him at gets his supply directly from the Philippines and has assured me that cyanide is not used in it's captured. Also the store had the fish for two weeks and all livestock looks very healthy and alert to include this tang. The tank looked healthy and alert up until death other than being stressed from being moved. That's all; I don't get it, what went wrong?
<God only knows what actually happened. Aquarium fish die "mysteriously" all the time. In the absence of disease or obvious water chemistry problems, it's usually stress. Unfortunately, we aquarists tend to be largely unaware of just how much stress our fish might be under in a certain situation (or of the more subtle signs and causes of such stress). Here's a good article with some good info about fish and stress:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/fishdisho.htm>
Any help on this would me greatly appreciated so as I don't continue to kill fish.
<The unfortunate truth is that even if you do everything right, you may still lose a fish or two. But if you're as careful as you can be, you'll lose far fewer fish.>
Thanks again for any help or advice. Kris
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Re: What went wrong... Naso mystery death, too small QT      8/26/07
Thanks Sara for the advice and link. I'm glad to here that there was no obvious mistake on my part. If i can ask one last thing though?
<Well, of course. :-) >
We know protein skimmers are crucial in marine tanks.
<Hmmm... that depends on who you talk to, how big the tank is, the number/size of other filtration methods being used, and the experience level of the aquarist. There are some "fringe" reef aquarists who successfully maintain their aquariums without them. But radical reef keeping ideas aside, generally yes, it's largely agreed that skimmers are important to maintaining a healthy marine tank... especially for fish only tanks.>
However everything I've read say's there not needed in a quarantine tank. why? Is this because the quarantine tank should have more water changes.
<Well, unless there's a dire emergency, a quarantine tank should not have many fish in it at any given time. In other words, the bioload should be very low. The quarantine tank should never be as heavily stocked as the main tank. And yes, regular water changes can make up for the lack of a skimmer. >
again thank you for your time and help. Kris
<My pleasure,
Sara M.>

Isopods - Cleaning Quarantine Tank 8/24/07
Kind Crew,
<Hello>
My question pertains to the best way to clean out a quarantine tank after an Isopod Invasion? I recently vacationed in the Florida Keys and while the children were snorkeling and collecting shells I asked them to pick me up a few dead (bleached out) pieces of rock about 2-3 inches in size. My intent is to use these pieces for fragging and filling in some voids in my tank. I set up my quarantine tank Saturday to cure some live rock that should be coming in the mail today. While messing with the tank I noticed the rock and shells still in the mesh bag that's been sitting down in the basement for about 2 weeks. I decided I would cure this with the live rock and added it to the tank. Setting up the lights Wednesday I noticed some movement in the tank. There were at least five little critters swimming freely about the tank. From your web site I identified them as Isopods, harmful to my fish.
<Not all Isopods are parasitic, but many are.>
I removed the rocks and washed out the tank, heater and filter for the quarantine tank. With the live rock coming today I figured I would go ahead and cure it for the
first week in a 5 gallon bucket. As for the quarantine setup, would it be best to run it for the week with only freshwater or a higher concentrated salinity of saltwater? Should I use ammonia or something else to clean out the tank? My concern is the possibility of some of these little pods or eggs lingering around, since they showed up after the rocks were sitting out water for a few weeks. On a side note, the vacation in the keys was fantastic! It gave me a new appreciation of the hobby and a better understanding of size that some of these fish can reach. Thanks for a great web site, any word on the new book?
Dave
<A mild bleach solution is the way to go here, followed by a few though rinsings, and a dose of chlorine remover, and you should be good to ago. Glad to see you took the opportunity to experience these creatures in the wild, you can learn so much watching them in their natural state.>
<Chris>

Toxic Tank(s); Myth or Just Mystery?   8/8/07
Good evening Bob & Crew,
I'm glad you're still here because my water quality is not.
Where, oh where, has my water quality gone?
If this helps, this is the story of a Butterfly in a 10gal. treatment tank (for ich), and a Purple Tang in a 20gal. QT tank at the same time.
Sorry about the length of this. I don't know how to keep the nightmare short.
I was minding my own business, QT'ing my Longnose Butterfly (Sponge Bob) in a 10gal. tank with an Eheim hang on filter, heater, LR and Sand (tank was four months old, already housed 4 fish for QT for my 72gal. display) when this fish came down with signs of ich after about two weeks.
Water quality was stable in this tank from the beginning and throughout this entire period (Temp 76-78, SG 1.021,
<Too low>
PH 8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 0), including an additional week after I noticed the symptoms while I educated myself on my options. Fish was still behaving fine and eating Frozen Mysis. The fish never had spots on his body, only a few on its tail and one fin.
With the help of your FAQ's and advice from the Crew, I moved him to a new 10gal. with no LR or Sand, raised the temp to 80-81deg., lowered the SG to about 1.019, and set up the tank as a treatment tank with a 4" PVC T-Pipe only for a hideout.
Removed a Carbon filter that I didn't know had carbon in it after a week of testing Copper content at zero (duh! - thanks Bob) and then, finally, treated effectively with Cupramine following all directions for about the first of the two weeks while the copper tests were reading what they should be with a new test kit and no carbon filter (.4-.5). Spots were disappearing. Everything "seemed" as if it was finally going well.
While all this is going on, I had to purchase a 20 gal. tank and equipment to QT my Purple Tang that had just arrived at my LFS after a four week wait. Ran 20gal. for a couple of days first and everything was testing ok (as above).
I special ordered this Tang and had to take it. (Side Note: can you believe $200.00 was the cheapest I could get one?
<Yikes! Where are you?>
Another branch of same LFS chain wanted $500.00 for one they had in the store!?)
Butterfly was originally scheduled to be in the display tank by the time the Tang arrived - ya right!
During the second week of Butterfly treatment in the newly stripped treatment tank, I was checking water conditions in the Tang's 20gal. QT tank (no treatment) and was horrified to find that the readings were off the map for ammonia! (Yes... Maxed out)
I didn't test anything else. I set a new land speed record on a panic 75% water change (which completely freaked out the fish) and it was still testing positive for ammonia, although less so (about 1.0). I did another 50% water change with some water I had just mixed. Still testing positive but less than .25 on the "not very accurate" color chart.
While I was scratching my head and pulling my hair out over this, it came to me that I should test the Butterfly's tank just in case. I had only tested for copper for about the last week and he didn't eat the day before. Readings were elevated across the board! I had read that you might get artificially elevated readings for ammonia, but not nitrites (off the chart) and nitrates (approx. 40).
I decided that newly mixed water can't possibly be as bad as this and was mixing and changing as fast as I could to do one 90% water change followed by a 50% water change and I was out of salt, and energy.
I did check my source water and it tested negative for Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates.
I picked up more salt and some Ammo Lock on the way home from work the next day and did more water changes with Ammo Lock over the next few days until the readings were "barely" registering by color.
I added ZOE to the Butterfly's treated water because he wasn't eating. Things in both tanks finally seemed to be getting back to "almost" normal. The Butterfly started "nibbling", but not for long.
Believe me when I tell you that in the middle of all this, I was on the verge of just packing it all in. I was looking for a huge sewer! Looking after my four month old 72 display with fish and corals (which is fine through this whole ordeal, somehow?), trying to treat this Butterfly (readjusting Copper treatment after each water change), trying to watch my new Tang, trying to figure out why my two tanks went toxic (by the way, I did remove uneaten food in the Butterfly's tank when he wasn't eating, but maybe not fast enough - sometimes I waited until the next day, but we're talking about very little food, and this doesn't explain the Tang's tank - he ate Mysis and Spectrum Pellets like a machine)
Oh, and did I mention that I had another 10gal. housing the invertebrates that I had to separate from the Butterfly to treat it? What did I get myself into? Whatever it was, it was way too much for a rookie.
<Take your time...>
Now if this wasn't bad enough, at the end of that week when it was time to remove the copper treatment (two weeks and spots not visible), the Butterfly wasn't eating again. Before I was going to do another partial water change and replace the carbon filter, I noticed that now that my Tang looked grey and was not well at all. I immediately tested the water and found Ammonia at approx. 0.25 but the Nitrates were off the chart and that's where I stopped testing. He had been in QT for just over two weeks and this was the second time this had happened. He never had any signs of ich, or anything else visible, so, not having any better ideas, I (GULP!) basically threw him in my display tank. A move I hope I don't regret. Within an hour his colour was 80% better and he was swimming around starting to establish himself in the tank to my Coral Beauty's dismay, and now the Hawk has two bosses.
Of course, the Butterfly's tank is now testing badly again, too. Ammonia approx. 0.25, Nitrites off the chart and Nitrates about 20. (Please forgive the approximates. These were mostly panic measurements. The tests were performed properly, but the recording and exact timeline were not)
I placed him in the now vacant 20gal. after I did more emergency water changes on that one, and by last night, things were, again, back to barely reading any signs of trouble.
Now I'm figuring that I will do a 25% water change every day for the duration of his stay in there not to take any chances. When I siphoned out 5gals. of water tonight, he just fell on his side on the bottom of the tank and started laboured breathing. Now what? I immediately tested again and after one day, the Nitrites were back up to 0.5 from barely noticeable last night.
I retested my mixed water that I was going to use for the change (conditioned tap water, Instant Ocean Salt, SG still low for the Butterfly at about 1.020, temp at about 80deg., mixing for about 20hrs with a Maxijet 400 Powerhead) and it tested ZERO for Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. This time, again for lack of a better idea, I basically threw the Butterfly into the 5gal. pail with the Powerhead. He immediately started to swim against the mild circulation from the powerhead and is still doing so. That was about two hours ago. (Is this 400 Powerhead too much with this fish in the 5gal. pail? I don't want to work the fish to death swimming since he hasn't been eating. I originally had a 600 in there but it definitely looked like too much)
Forgive me if the information is not expertly laid out, but I'm so rattled at this point, I can barely keep my story, or my eyes, straight.
<Am... a bit lost here re your intent... Quarantine does not entail having no bio-filtration...?>
I can not, for the life of me (and my fish), figure out what is going on here. It's as if these two tanks were cycling, but both tanks are completely bare save for the pre-washed & well rinsed PVC Pipe in each tank.
Can waste from one fish and some sponge in a filter kick off this type of cycling activity in a completely bare tank?
<Mmm, yes... the cycling microbes can/will live in the water, on the glass... can just as easily be supplanted...>
When I started my first 10gal. QT tank with 10lbs. pre-cured LR and sand, I never saw any readings like this and I ran that tank for months and QT'd four fish without any readings, or problem at all.
I've been through more salt water on these two tanks in the last few weeks than I think I've ever used on my 72 changing 10gals about every two weeks.
Right now, the 72 and everyone in it (knock-knock) seems to be doing well as far as I can tell, (although obviously I am no expert), the Tang seems to be doing quite well in the display. His colour looks much better. He is not overly active. He hides from people still, but otherwise swims around quietly picking at the rock and exploring the tank. I'll keep my eyes open and my fingers crossed with this guy.
The Butterfly, as mentioned, has taken up residence IN his "water change" bucket with water testing fine, for now.
Do you have any idea what can make a bare tank (or two) go downhill so quickly?
<All sorts>
I use the same water, procedures, etc. on my 72 gal. and have NEVER had anything like this show up.
If these fish somehow, by some miracle, survive two rounds of this punishment, I will rename them Guinness and Ripley's.
If they don't, then I will of course feel very badly that this happened while they were in my care.
Any light you can shed on this one will be greatly appreciated.
And again, sorry about the length.
Mike
<Without much stability... from system size, diversity, buffering mechanisms, differing micro-organism groups can rapidly populate, their by-products seemingly poison a "bare" system. BobF>

Re: Flame Angel Emergency? Mmmm, QT sys.  – 07/18/07
Thank you Bob for your response,
<Welcome>
The Angel didn't make it through the night. The shrimp never seemed to be aggressive towards the Angel , as he would go over to the shrimp and hang out often. I took him out and couldn't find a thing outwardly wrong with him. His color was good , no cloudy eyes nothing on his skin. I do wonder if he could have hurt himself. His behavior was like he was seeing another one and attacking it.
<Mmm, not uncommon that this IS the case... internal reflection in aquariums... not usually able to be seen from outside...>
One of those mystery fish deaths when you think you are doing everything right?
<Seems like it, yes>
Thank You so much for all the help you guys do
Sandra Caldwell
<Thank you for this follow-up. I do encourage folks to "darken" the outside of small tanks... with paper taped on... latex paint... Bob Fenner>

QT equipment, Cu exposure  - 05/01/07
I have a 30 gallon long QT/hosp tank with Emperor 280, AquaC remora skimmer w/MJ1200 and MJ1200 for flow. All this equipment has been exposed to copper, can it ever be used in a regular tank again? Jeff
<Yes... no problem. Very likely what little copper that has "plated out" on the surfaces of this gear has become insoluble... You can use it, test for free copper if you intend to utilize it with invertebrates, algae... But I doubt if any Cupric ion will show. Bob Fenner>

Re: Quarantine Tank Part II 4/4/07
Once again thank you for your reply,
<Welcome>
I have another question for you. I have read (don't remember in which article though) that using a freshwater dip before the introduction in the QT is a good way to eliminate at least some parasites/diseases. But my concern is, how should I proceed with the acclimation of the fish? Should I take it out of the bag, put it in the FW dip (same pH, temp, maybe some medication??) for 10-15 minutes and then I just throw it into the QT? Or should I put the fish back in the bag, acclimate it and then put it in the QT?
Again, thank you for your work!
Marc.
<Acclimate it to the QT tank water, which should be matched to the dip water as closely as possible except for the salt of course.  After the dip place the fish into the QT tank.  Adding some Methylene Blue to the dip would be helpful, but not mandatory.>
<Chris>

Quarantine Article...Thank you Steven Pro   4/1/07
I would like to set up a Quarantine tank to accompany my 55 gal.
I was wondering if it would be ok for me to buy one of those cheap 10 gal tanks at Wal mart for $30 and set that up, it comes with a filter and heater.  
Also, I was wondering what is the fastest way to get the tank up and running ASAP. Do I have to wait out a The beginning cycle.
There is a local fish store that sells RO salt water that they make there. My question is if I use that water and fill the QT tank with it, will I have to wait a while or since that water is already made will it be ok to use.
If I have to wait, how long?
<Hey Derek, please try reading this article by Steven Pro first; http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php . Trust me that it will answer ALL of your questions in more detail than I could in a single e-mail correspondence. However.........if you need clarification, feel free to write back/respond. Adam J.>

Quarantine, Using DT System Water, Usually the Best. - 03/25/07
Dear Crew
<Hi Barry, Mich here.>
Thanks again for all the assistance/advice I've received (along with many others) over the course of the past several years.
<You are most welcome!>
Obviously, this hobby (read: obsession) <Heee! Yes!> has evolved over the years to the benefit of we aspiring conscientious aquarists and the charges in our care.   
<Yes, there has been much progress, ironically in the form of back to nature.>
I read Brandon's response to Wayne today regarding quarantine protocol ("Qt transfer to display 3/23/07) and am puzzled by his comment that he had never heard of using display tank water to establish/maintain the quarantine tank.  
<None of us are all knowing in this hobby, though Bob comes quite close.> <<I'll say! Heeeeeeee! RMF>>
I have followed this procedure with excellent results for years.  
<Yes, is standard operating procedure as long as there are no known pathogens (i.e. Ich) in the display.>
I originally did it because it made sense to me (similar water parameters, etc) and then I felt somewhat validated when I read Bob Fenner's article "Quarantining Marine Livestock" at: www.wetwebmedia.quarantin.htm some time later.  
<Yes.  This is what I would follow.>
Is this procedure now out of favor for some reason or is this just an issue of individual preference?
<Not out of favor, is the preferred method.>
Frankly, I haven't had the need to quarantine (no additions to my DT and no illnesses to treat) in a couple of years and am just curious if, should the need arise, I should set-up my quarantine tank differently in the future.
<No.  Follow the instructions in Bob's article.  Is the best info out there in my opinion.  -Mich>
Barry

Water Changes in QT  3/21/07
Good Evening,
<Hi Jackie, Pufferpunk here>
It is with great sorrow that I write to you.  I purchased a Kole Tang (4 inches) on Sunday.  I drip acclimated the Tang to a 5 gal QT tank that I filled with water from my main tank.  Everything seemed fine on Sunday.  The Tang was eating and seemed happy.  On Monday morning when I went to check on him I noticed quite a bit of water on the floor under the tank.  I assumed the tank was leaking.  However, to my dismay I discovered that the water on the floor was a direct result of the Tang sloshing around in the tank.  When I finally took a look, I discovered that the Tang was breathing rapidly and covered with ich.  I immediately began preparing my 24 gal tank to transfer him and start copper treatments.  On Tuesday he was still breathing rapidly, but the white spots were not as prevalent.  He stayed that way for most of the day.  This morning when I went to check on him, he was dead.
Where do you think I went wrong?
<5 gallons is quite small for a fish, even if it's a juvenile.  Water parameters can go bad very quickly.  You didn't mention how often you changed the water or if there was any filtration on the QT.  Unless you were doing 90-100% daily water changes on that tank or had an established filtration system from another tank on there, the fish was probably stressed out by the ammonia/nitrite buildup, which caused it's immune system to fail.  Also, copper is a very dangerous chemical to treat with.  The levels need to be monitored very closely or the fish will become poisoned.  ~PP>
Thanks, Jackie

Quarantine Tank Live Rock?    – 03/09/07
Hi,
<Hi Brian, Mich here.>
I have a question about live rock I used in a quarantine tank: What can I do with it now?  I received a regal angel a few days ago from liveaquaria.com.  It was stressed out, so I bought a 10g tank and set it up as a quarantine (just the tank, two pieces of cured live rock bought from my LFS for cover, a heater, and a small BioWheel wet/dry filter).  The fish didn't make it.  It seemed fine at first - swimming, etc, after 8 hours, but after about 24 hours it started to head south.  It wouldn't eat any of the Mysis I put in the tank, and it was dead this morning (about 36 hours after arrival).
<Sorry for your loss.>
So, I now have two pieces of live rock in the tank, which I would like to put in my main tank.  Can I?  I don't know what killed the angel, so I don't want to infect the main tank.  What should I do?  
<I would not put it into the display tank.  I would keep the rock in the QT or move it to another container with power head and a heater and allow it to go fallow (without fish) for at least 4 weeks or even better 6-8 weeks before putting in into your display.>
Also, is there anything I could have done better for the angel?
<In the future, it would be better to have the QT tank set up and running for at least a week or more before any fish are placed.>   
Thanks!
Brian
<Welcome! -Mich>

Quarantine Query!   2/14/07
Hey all,
<HI there! Scott F. here tonight!>
     My ex-wife just handed me our ole' MiniBow 7 gallon tank, which formally housed some Neons, Corys, and a Dwarf African Frog.  Would it be suitable as a quarantine tank for marine fish?  I'm a bit worried about the toxicity of the 'caulked' joints on marine fish (even though it had no effect on freshwater fish.  Color me paranoid...)  
<By "caulked", do you mean like the kind you use in kitchens and baths? If so, this could be potentially problematic and toxic, depending on the product used. If you are referring to silicone, there should be no problems.>
As a freshwater system it utilized a small backpack filter.  What would be a good filter setup for a saltwater quarantine unit?
<I really like the good old air-powered sponge filters. You simply keep one in the sump of your display tank and let it "colonize" beneficial bacteria when not in use, and then throw it in your quarantine when the need arises. This way, you always have a filter ready to go when that cool fish that you can't resist arrives at your store!>
Many Thanks
<My pleasure!>   
  p.s.
  BTW, I had around a dozen Catalina Goby fry hatch, but currently there seem to be only 2 left, hanging around the hole where their eggs were, and quasi-protected by one of the adults.  Let's hope they make it!
<Wow! A nice accomplishment! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Overstocked QT, Clownfish breeding - 1/24/07
<Hey Josh, JustinN with you tonight.>
At the moment I have a 20 gallon tank waiting to be switched to my 55 gallon tank that is currently cycling, and has been for the past month.
<Ok>
In the tank, (I know, bad combination)
<If you already know....>
2 percula clownfish, a BlueLine trigger, a blue damsel, and a algae eating blenny.
<Yikes! In a 20 gallon aquarium? This is PAINFULLY overstocked, my friend, even for quarantine! I certainly hope you are executing frequent, large water changes here!>
I have had one of the Perc's, the blenny, and the damsel since I put fish in the tank about 4 months ago, and have been fine.
<...Ok>
My question is, once I have all those fish in the 55 gallon tank, is it possible to put a tank divider between the trigger, and the lesser
aggressive fish?
<No, the trigger will need the swimming room. Placing a divider in the aquarium is like placing it in a smaller aquarium, and I'm already on the borderline as to the appropriateness of a triggerfish in a standard 55 gallon aquarium.>
The reason I ask you this, is because I want to know that if I have that tank divider up, will the clownfish breed?
<Without the triggerfish, there may be a possibility for such, but I think that the stress of the larger fish will prevent such here (and as already stated, I do not support the divider idea.)>
One clownfish is about 1.5", and the other is about 2". Also, how big do clownfish have to be for them to choose the dominant fish?
<Is already likely the case, my friend. The pronounced size difference is a typical giveaway. Good luck! -JustinN>

QT Lighting Question 1/16/07
Hello again, and thanks for all of the great information. <Hi>  I have a general question on QT lighting.  I am currently using a 12 gallon nano-cube to QT a small Kole tang with ich (treating with copper). <Watch carefully, tangs are fairly sensitive to copper.>  Reading through the site I could not find clear guidance on lighting other than indirect room lighting.  I am pretty sure the tang will remain in the PVC tube and not recognize its time to eat with the tank lights on. <Can run less light if the tang prefers/reacts better to it. > The lights are  50/50 24W.  Its been about 24 hours since I QT'd the tang.  I was planning about 6 hours a day for lighting while in QT. <Should be fine.> How does that sound? <Ok>  
Thanks again.
<Sure>
<Chris>

Substrate in QT tank?  1/9/07
<Graham T. with you today, Chris.>
Amazing site.
<...And proud of it! (Thanks.)>
Now that the formalities are out of the way <?> I have a question regarding a small adult Red Coris Wrasse (Coris gaimard) I purchased this afternoon. He is in a 10 gallon QT waiting to enter his/her new home
<Good to know SOME people QT their fishies...>
...which is a 210 and housed with a Koran, Snowflake and Niger Trigger. I believe the main display is adequate with well over 200 lbs rock and approx 1.5-2" coral sand bed.
<I am inclined to agree.>
Proper skimming with a bullet 2 and also running an Eheim pro 2 with carbon, filter media and a filter sock in the Fuge.
    OK back to the QT.
<OK.>
Should I keep a sand bed in this (which I do not currently have) or will the 10 lbs rock I have in there suffice?
<The rock as a hiding place is sufficient. Remember, you want to provide a place for observation and treatment, if necessary. That means a minimum of items (like LR or LS) that can possibly absorb medications as you administer them. You want the specimen to feel secure, but you want practicality as well. You have done the right thing, whether it was frugality or prudence that led you to it. ;) >
I acclimated the wrasse for 3 hrs before entering but I'm still not sure how happy he is since he is hiding constantly and laying on his side.
<Stay vigilant and observant, but don't worry yet. Moving is a stressful ordeal!>
Unfortunately I may have under planned not having substrate in the QT.
Advice is welcome--Thank you ------Chris
<Not to worry Chris, Good luck!
-Graham T.>

QT tank size 1/8/07
Hi Crew
<Hello>
I have just noticed an Ich infestation in my main system. I have read the articles on your website about treatment and they have been very helpful. I currently have 9 fish:
4 chromis
2 saddleback clownfish
1 pinstripe wrasse
1 flame angel
1 valentini puffer.
I have two quick questions:
1) Will a 20 gal QT tank be sufficient for holding all these fish to treat them for this disease? If not are there any other options apart from buying a new QT tank?
<Probably too small unless all the fish are very small.  The other option is to purchase a large food grade Tupperware container available at retailers such as Target and split up the fish.>
2) The 20 gal tank was used for freshwater and was powered by a canister filter that I'd like to continue using for this tank. Do I need to totally strip it down to make it safe to use?
<As long as you replace all your media beforehand should be fine with lots of water changes.>
Many thanks!
Dan
<Chris>

Quarantine Tank pH Levels  12/12/06
Good Evening,
<Good evening to you Jackie!  Michelle with you tonight.>
Based upon everything I've read on your site, I setup a 5 gallon quarantine tank about 1 week ago and added (2) Domino Damsel fish.   
<Be aware of potential behavioral problems with Domino's (Dascyllus trimaculatus).>
The PH was 7.97 when I setup the tank.  When I tested the water this evening I discovered the PH had decreased to 7.78.  
<Yes, this will happen in tanks lacking calcareous elements.  Filtration tends to lower pH levels by 0.05 to 0.1 point per week without supplementation.>
How do you maintain adequate PH levels on small quarantine tanks?
<Easily done by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to the system.  Dose should be 1 teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate per 20 gallons.  In your case dissolve a quarter teaspoon of baking soda in some water from your system, and pour into your tank. Add weekly.>   
I am using a Whisper filter, heater, and low wattage lighting.
Please advise.
Thanks,
<You are quite welcome.  -Mich>
Jackie

Quarantine Tank Size  11/12/06
Greetings!  Great website.
<Thanks>
Currently dealing with a bout of ich brought on by not properly quarantining new arrivals (will never make that mistake again!).
Although I've found tons of valuable information, I haven't been able to answer one specific question.
I've got a 40 gal FOWLR (actually some polyps and mushrooms as well) tank that's been established for approx. 3 months.  I purchased the aquarium from a co-worker that had this tank running for 4 years.
Tank inhabitants:
2 clownfish (ocellaris)
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish
1 cleaner shrimp
5 blue legged hermit crabs
5 snails.
approx 10 thriving and multiplying mushrooms and a colony of small polyps (came with the LR)
Here's my question.  I plan on rapidly setting up a hospital tank to deal with the ich... how large should this tank be?
<The bigger the better... but at least fifteen gallons>
Can I place all
three fish in the same aquarium?
<Yes>
Both the female clown and coral beauty are approx. 2" long, the male clown is about half their size.
As all water parameters checked out ok, LFS advised that ich was most likely brought on by aggression b/w female clown and angel (stress induced ich outbreak), although I've never observed these fish acting overly aggressive towards one another.  LFS also advised that quarantine was not required b/c they quarantine all new arrivals before placement in their own tanks...
<Were this but so... only a few stores have adequate physical plants, and strict protocols... to make this claim... Any mixing of water or gear... negates strict quarantine>
I know better now.
The male clown does not show any signs of ich, however I'm hoping I can temporarily house all 3 in a 10 gal tank while they convalesce?
<Perhaps... but a 15 would be better>
Keep up the awesome work!
Quentin
<Again, thank you, Bob Fenner>

Re: Quarantine Tank Size  11/12/06
Thanks for the reply Bob!
<Welcome "Q"... am feeling like James Bond now... "Shaken not stirred">
Things have changed a little since my initial correspondence...
<Oh?>
I visited my LFS to discuss this ick issue (great small mom and pop type operation that appears to really care about their fish).  I asked about his in-store quarantining practices... he brought me into the back of his store to show me an old clownfish struggling with a serious bout of ick (Cryptocaryon) in one of his QT.  I immediately noticed that the white sores (best described as almost pimples) looked nothing like the very small white flecks I had identified on 2 of my fish.  After describing my problem to the LFS owner, he took me around and showed me a number of fish that had the exact problem I was seeing with mine.  He told me that these white flecks were most likely some sort of parasite but nothing to be alarmed about.  He found a number of white flecks on large 8 year old tang (a clown tang I think) he has housed in a "not-for-sale" display tank.  He said that he's noticed these small spots on the tang in the past but they've never caused a problem. He again suggested that my best course of action (as long as the fish continued to eat properly) would be to keep water quality high (I have some issues with fluctuating pH that must be addressed),
His reasoning is that the parasite will always be in my tank and as long as the fish are healthy (immune system) they will be able to fight the parasite themselves.
<Mmm, well, I'd also add at least one species of purposeful cleaner organism... a Lysmata species perhaps if it'll fit>
My best guess is that these flecks are Oodinium
<Uhh, no... all your fishes would very likely be dead by now if this were the causative organism... More likely Glugea... some other protozoan>
and that this is a serious and fatal parasite.
<Amyloodinium is indeed>
  What course of action would you recommend?
<The cleaner/s at this point if nothing else... if you had a microscope, some familiarity with same, a scraping or two, staining... a copy of Ed Noga, "Fish Disease, Diagnosis and Treatment"... and some follow-up here (with moi) once you identify what is going on here specifically>
  I've read the velvet FAQ's and have found that aggressive FW dips are recommended and that very few medications effectively treat this parasite.  Sorry if I seem dense but could you clearly outline what I should do?
<Mmm... no, not w/o knowing definitively what you've got... Understanzee Rubberbandzee?>
  I am unclear whether the fish must be quarantined...  What does "aggressive" FW dipping mean (multiple consecutive dips? daily dips for an extended period?)  Do the fish go back into the infected tank?  If so won't they just get the parasite again?  Even faster because they are now extremely stressed?  I have used water from a water change to fill my own personal QT tank (setup this weekend).  Oodinium will almost certainly be present in this tank as well.
Sorry for the long email.  Please help!
Quentin
<... Really need to know more Quent... Bob Fenner>

Re: Quarantine Tank Size  - 11/13/06
Ha!  Feel free to call me 'q', my fiancé/friends/coworkers do.
<Will do!>
I forgot to mention that I do have 1 cleaner shrimp in the tank.
Added about 2 weeks ago (before I believed QT was necessary).  So far
I'm not seeing any health issues with my fish at all besides the small
white spots.
<Mmm, this being stated, I am more of the opinion to adopt a "wait and see" attitude then at this juncture... the spots could very well be "nothing"... and/or at least nothing easily treated>
Here are some additional observations:
-white dots are <1mm in size (probably <0.5mm... but hard to tell through glass)
-white dots are not present on fish in the morning (7am), not present
when I get home from work (5:30pm), appear on the fish later at night
(11:30pm)
<Ping ponging... most often seen with Crypt>
-aquarium lights on a timer 11am - 10:30pm -white dots are most prevalent on the coral beauty (3 - 5 spots) -smaller male clownfish has never had spots -larger female clown has not had any spots for approx 3 days -all fish eating voraciously throughout this time
-very minor scarring present on female clown where spots used to be
I'm not sure if this will help!
q
<All does. BobF>

Quarantine Tank Size   11/14/06
Hi Bob!  q here again.
<Q ster>
Think I may have noticed an additional problem.  Female clown now appears slightly lethargic... Hangs out at bottom of the tank for extended periods of time, doesn't romp around with small male as much as she used to.  My fiancé thinks I'm looking for problems and worrying the tank (believes that fem. clown has always acted this way).
<Likely so>
I've also noticed that she opens and closes her mouth quite rapidly.  I'm not sure if this counts as rapid gilling due to the fact that gills blend in so well with rest of body.  She is still eating well.
I've just installed a Purigen filter pack in my filter system to help insure water quality is high and purchased another heater to help stabilize tank temp (was noticing fluctuations in temp of up to 2F)
Any thoughts?
<Take your fiancé to dinner, not to worry>
Thank you so much for your help!  I've just placed an order for your book via Amazon!
q
<You're sure to enjoy, gain by its perusal. BobF>

Re: Quarantine Tank Size, Out! Damn spot!  11/18/06
Hi Bob.
<Q>
Q here again.  I've got some additional observations to report regarding the "unknown spot" malady affecting my fish.
<I see>
For the record here is a complete rundown of my setup:
40gal (3' long), 40 – 60 lbs live rock, HOT filer system (chem.: Purigen filter pack  Bio:  sponge with burbling mechanism to aerate media), HOT Red Sea Prizm protein skimmer (just purchased an AquaC Remora to replace the Prizm), 2 tank heaters, 2 powerheads (maxi-jet 1200 and Powerhead 402).
The tank has been established for approx. 3 – 4 months.
Stock:
2 x A. ocellaris
1 x Coral Beauty Angelfish
<Mmm, needs more room... a source of excess stress/strain here>
1 x Cleaner shrimp
6 x Snails
5 x Blue Legged Hermit Crab
Approx. 10 assorted mushrooms
Small colony of polyps
<These two groups are borderline to very noxious... more so in small volumes, if "challenged"...>
Lights:  11am – 10:30 pm.  2 compact fluorescent (don't know the make off the top of my head)
<Head! Who said head....?>
Food:  Fish are fed a 4 day cycle of the following foods:  enhanced frozen brine, enhanced frozen mysis, pellets (New Life Spectrum Marine Formula), enhanced frozen brine (different brand than that provided on day 1).  I have been soaking either brine or mysis in Seachem Reef Plus once a week.  LFS advised given tank size, I should only supplement once/week.  
<Could/can be a concern, yes>
Fish are fed at the same time every evening 8pm.  Angel does not appear to be capable of tracking the small pellets well enough to get a good feed from this meal (position of eyes on head).
I lose water due to evap. at the rate of approx. 2.5L/day.  Temp adjusted, fresh makeup water is added everyday after fish have eaten, shortly before "lights out".  All chemicals (when required) are added at this time.  Here's a general description of my chemical addition schedule.  1/week – Seachem pH buffer (mixed with FW), 1 or 2/week Seachem Reef Carbonate (with FW to raise alk), 1 or 2 /week Reef Builder (to boost Ca++ after alk treatments).  I test pH, alk, and Ca++ at least once per week.  Other parameters are tested at least every 2 weeks (NH3, NO2, NO3, PO4)
<Mmm, I would only add these chemicals in/with the new change water>
Water Change:  5 gallon change every 10 days.  ½ of substrate is vacuumed per water change.  Bottled water mixed with Instant ocean salt, heated and aerated for 36 hrs, add Prime before introducing water into tank.
Observations:
-only fem. Clown and angel have ever had spots
-Angel has the most spots (seem to be concentrated on the front half of body, have noticed some spots on eyes, fins)
-Number of white spots on angel has been steadily increasing since I originally noticed the problem last Wednesday (10 days ago) -spots have come and gone on fem. Clown on a 1 to 2 day cycle (I understand this may be following the crypt life cycle)
-fem clown was acting a little lethargic.  Water change performed 2 days ago appeared to completely alleviate this problem.
-all fish continue to show no outward signs of distress (all eat well every night, active, no scratching, flashing)
-I have been paying more attention to possible aggressive behaviour b/w angel and fem. Clown.  It looks like the angel is the bully of the tank.
<Likely so>
  Swims much faster than other fish (generally seems much more hyperactive), appears to dart in towards clownfish and swim away without actually touching or nipping (posturing).  Seems as though the clownfish are intimidated by the fast, jerky movement and constant motion.
<Good observations>
I am beginning to believe that I am dealing with Cryptocaryon despite not noticing other symptoms like appetite loss.
<Is a distinct possibility>
  I have been steadily
digesting all the FAQs pertaining to Cryptocaryon, parasites, clownfish/angelfish disease and have found at least one picture that appears to depict exactly what I'm seeing with my fish.  One photo in particular illustrates what I've observed
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfishdisfaq6.htm  "What are these spots" photo about ¼ of the way down… tiny white flecks near dorsal fin of clown).  In this particular correspondence "Jeff" diagnoses the condition immediately as ick.  This person describes the spots as "small white strings or flakes" and mentions associated lethargy/appetite loss.  I might describe my problem as flecks but certainly not "strings".   What do you think??  How quickly does Cryptocaryon kill its host?
Thank you Bob!  I have learned so much from you website.  Truly top notch.
q
<Welcome... am sure you are also generating a clearing picture of your alternatives here... Tolerating a standing infestation, fighting its progression... or removing all fish... treating elsewhere... BobF>

Re: Quarantine Tank Size  11/18/06
Thanks for the reply.
<Welcome>
If I were to attempt to treat this problem how would I go about it?
Are you convinced that this is Cryptocaryon?
<Mmm, no. Would take microscopic examination of smears of the fishes body slime, staining to convince me>
Given good water quality, is it likely that this outbreak is stressed induced (aggression b/w angelfish and clown)?
<Is highly likely stress related... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm
and the linked files above>
Will this get worse in a smaller QT tank?
<... possibly>
Should I consider removing the Coral Beauty from the tank entirely?
Sorry for being a bother!
q
<Not a bother... I want you to be clear here re your situation, possibilities, potentials... If indeed you thought this system (not just the fish hosts) was infested, I would remove all the fishes to a treatment tank... allow the present display to run fallow, sans fish hosts... treat the fishes per the expansive archives of WWM. Bob Fenner>

Refugium For Quarantine?  9/15/06
Great resourceful site, quick question for the experts. I am going to use an old 55-glass tank as a sump\refugium for my 75-gallon tank. My current design is Skimmer Left, return center, with the refugium on the right utilizing a higher wall. I am channeling aquarium water to both ends to give the refugium fresh tank water. My question is can I occasionally isolate the refugium as a quarantine tank, or should I design another chamber say 5-10
gallons for this purpose. I intend to have LS, LR, etc in the refugium so I'm not sure if leaving this out of the loop for several weeks would be risky.
<Hmm...in my opinion, I'd simply set up a small aquarium for this purpose. Get an appropriate-sized aquarium for the livestock that you intend to quarantine (like a 10, 20 or 40 gallon), "pre-colonize" some filter media in your display tank, and set up/break down the quarantine tank when you need it. The potential for introduction of diseases, even in an isolated section of your refugium, is simply not worth the risk, IMO. Besides, if disease does manifest itself and you have to medicate, there is another potential difficulty. Better to isolate a section of your refugium to cultivate amphipods, mysids, or other food sources, IMO! Quarantine in a simple tank set up remotely just for this purpose.>
Thanks - Jeff
<My pleasure, Jeff...Hope my two cents was of use to you! Regards, Scott F.>

Quarantine Tanks   7/22/06
Hello WWM Crew,
I have been wandering about QT tanks for awhile now.
I always use my empty 12 gallon to quarantine the juvenile fish I have previously bought.
<Good>
However, I am hoping to one day own a Mandarin fish or a Powder Blue Tang.
I'm wary about the idea of a Mandarin fish being in such a small space with limited amount of food for 3-6 weeks.
<Can keep adding some "used water" with food... But I am a fan of not long-quarantining "such" fishes>
I cringe at the thought of placing even the smallest of Tangs in a 12 gallon Nano Cube for a month or more.
I don't want to stress out my older fish or the newbies. Please help untangle this idea that will not leave me alone!
Thank you so much for all the help you and everyone else at WWM does for the rest of the aquatic community.
Anne
<Large/r quarantine quarters would be, are better... Bob Fenner>

Fish deaths and water preparation 6/26/06
I've had my 25 gallon saltwater with 30 pounds of live rock for three months now. After cycling, I added a black and gold damsel, two blue-green Chromis fish, and a scarlet cleaner shrimp. After seeming healthy for about a month, one blue-green Chromis had a cut on it from the other Chromis attacking him, so I put him in a plastic quarantine within the tank, so that the other fish would leave him alone while he healed. After two or three days he died.
<Was this a solid container?  Was there any circulation within the container?  I don't really like these, prefer a proper QT/hospital tank.>
About two weeks later, the other blue-green Chromis started not eating as much as usual, but had no visual signs of illness other than that. A few weeks after that he began looking a bit thin, and then was unable to swim and started sinking to the bottom. He died a few hours later. <Many possible reasons, intestinal parasite, cyanide poisoning, harassment, water quality.> The black and gold damsel and shrimp are both healthy and seem to be doing fine. I've taken my water to my fish store and they tested my levels and said everything was normal. <Normal is relative, get hard numbers next time.>  I change about 10% of my water every week. But, when I do water changes, I add my salt mix into a bucket with water treated with reverse-osmosis (the kind you get from the machines at the grocery store), mix for a few minutes, check the salinity, add a little buffer and then add to the tank. <Not good> Am I supposed to be letting the water sit for 24 hours? <Yes> Could this be killing my fish? <Would be a quick death if that is the problem.>  What’s the benefit of mixing the water 24 hours in advance? <Gives time for the Ph to stabilize, salt to really dissolve, plus fresh mixed water is quite corrosive.>
Thank you!
<Anytime>
<Chris>

Sponge filter in QT tank (saltwater)   5/27/06
Hello and thanks again for all you guys do. I have a couple questions..
<Me too!>
1. I'm setting up a QT tank. is a 10 gal to small or should I go with a 20 gal. (I have a 55 and 125 gal reef tanks)
<The bigger the better...>
2. as far as a sponge filter for the QT tank, is a sponge on a powerhead OK (I have a MaxiJet 1200 with a foam sleeve) or should I buy and actual filter like an AquaClear or another hang on?
<The latter>
3. I also have a quicky growing # of Majano anemones. In the reading I've done on your website, it sounds like one of the causes is overfeeding. Is that overfeeding the fish ( frozen brine shrimp and frozen Mysis shrimp) or overfeeding my corals (micro-vert and coral vital). I'd love to get rid of them naturally)
<Feeding the system period... "What goes in...">
4. In order to get rid of the anemone's it sounds like a Raccoon Butterflyfish would do the trick (after proper QT with anemones to munch
on). In reading on WWM it is stated that a Copperbanded B/F is safer in the reef than the Raccoon, my question is, may I get lucky with either one or should I plan on just pulling it back out and putting it in another tank?  (
If the latter, it would end up in my 55 which will become more of a fish tank and less of a reef tank overtime)
<Too small...>
Thanks again, Mike
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: sponge filter in QT tank (saltwater)... and manifold pb  5/27/06
Great, thanks for the reply! Sounds like I should cut back on total amount I'm feeding or if I go with a Copper band B/F, I should look at trading him back in or leaving him in the 125 gal reef (if I get lucky and he doesn't eat too much of my corals).
I have another question if I may, I put in a closed loop system in my 125 gal. (hooked up to a MAG12) I plumbed a manifold around the top of the tank with 8 outlets for lots of options on water flow direction. Would I be better off blocking off half of them so I get stronger water flow thus more turbulent action in the tank VS gentle flow out of all 8 outlets?
Thanks again, Mike
<Mmm, I'd get some slip plugs (insert, sans solvent) and push these in and see... may take pliers to extract... Bob Fenner>

Problem with quarantine tank   5/17/06
Hi Guys,
<<We've got Gals, too, Chris. :) Tom here.>>
My new tank has been running for 3 months now and I still don't have a fish in it because I'm just not getting the quarantine process right. Due to a lack of space my quarantine tank is quite small (50 Litres), it is bare bottomed and contains a couple of pvc pieces as hiding place with a small powerhead. On my first attempt I ran a small hang-on filter for about 10 days on my main tank and then moved it to the quarantine tank (which I filled with water from the main tank). My first fish (a royal Gramma) died after 2 weeks from ammonia in the water.. I did some major water changes when I detected the ammonia, but couldn't get rid of it in time. I emptied the quarantine tank and started from scratch.
<<Sorry about your fish, Chris. For what it's worth, ten days may be on the marginal side of getting a filter "seeded" running on a cycled tank but the situation you ran into still surprises me.>>
I did some more research and this time I bought a sponge filter, the one that works with the air pump. I ran it for a week on the main tank and then moved it to the quarantine tank. I filled the QT with water from the main tank again. I added a small yellow tang and attached some Nori for him to a piece of pvc to graze on. I also decided to do small water changes (5-10% every day). Its been 3 days now and again I am detecting some ammonia.
<<All right, it's likely these filters aren't seeded after all or, at least so minimally as to be insignificant.>>
I don't want to lose my 2nd healthy fish this way, but I'm not so sure what to do anymore, apart from a large water change every day (something like 50%), which is not something I think I can manage at the moment. I'm very tempted to just move it to the main tank, because I'm afraid it will be dead soon if I leave it in the QT, but I also know of the risk this will be for my main tank.
<<You don't say whether, or not, you've been "feeding" the main tank while it's laid fishless. There's an altogether good chance that whatever cycling it went through, presupposing that it went through a complete cycle, has been undone. This would explain why neither of the add-on filters were/are able to handle the ammonia in the QT. This, of course, leaves us with two tank problems and one fish dilemma to deal with.
You don't say how large the display tank is but my thinking is that you'd be better served by putting the Yellow Tang in there rather than keeping it in the QT. Why? Dilution. Any ammonia produced will be at much lower concentrations in a large tank than in a small one. You'll need a source of ammonia to re-cycle this tank anyway and while I wouldn't advise anyone to use this type of fish, or any fish, for this purpose, your only other option would be to get someone to hold him/her for you until you're up and ready to go.
If you can possibly get your hands on some Bio-Spira (Marineland), you'd be "light-years" ahead of the game in getting these tanks where they need to be. Otherwise, we're left to going the "brute force" route here.>>
Any advice will help. I'm a little despondent with the fact that I'm killing fish with something that is supposed to be good for them.
<<Chris, one fish died but the other hasn't so don't make it sound like you're committing mass murder. Everything you've done, and are doing, is pretty much textbook. However, I believe, you made the innocent mistake of assuming that the main tank is still cycled when it's not. Okay. Lesson learned. You've got plenty of company, yours truly included. Frankly, I'm pleasantly surprised to see that someone took the care to set a QT up before tossing fish into their display tank. All too often, we see problems/fish deaths arising from people not taking the time/care to do so.>>
Thanks
Chris
<<You'll get through this, Chris, just don't give up. Tom>>

Re: Problem with quarantine tank  - 05/17/2006
Hi Tom,
<<Hello again, Chris.>>
Thanks a lot for the reply and encouragement. English is not my first language and I always assumed that "guys" would mean all people in this context :)
<<Not to worry, Chris. Generally speaking, it does, although I'm sure we have a few folks out there that are surprised that a "girl" would know anything about fish. (In the case of the WWM Crew, all of them know more than I do so I "suck up" when the opportunity presents itself.) :)>>
The reason for my QT procedure is simply because I failed miserably on my first attempt at a marine tank some years ago, and would like to do it the right way this time.
<<Having read ahead in your post, I'd say you've done it very well, indeed.>>
Just some extra comments. My main tank is about 150gallons and contains 75kg of Live Rock. Initially, after lots of research I came to the conclusion that I don't need to add anything to the tank to start it cycling, because the live rock will take care of this process. It has been 3 months and I haven't seen any sign of ammonia or nitrites to this day. I've asked for opinions on this and the general feedback was that the live rock probably cycled the tank "instantaneously". At the moment I have some mushroom corals in the tank, with many types of macro algae growing all over. I also see a lot of "pods" walking around, with some small hermit crabs etc. But there is still nothing that I feed in the main tank (apart from dosing some things for the corals).
<<Based on this "new" information I withdraw my theory about the display tank not being cycled. Quite the opposite from the sounds of it but it does lead me to wonder if your power filter and sponge filter were still "starved" because of the great biological filtration that your LR would be handling.>>
So to be honest I'm not sure at the moment if my main tank is cycled or not, because I've always assumed that their must be some ammonia being produced with all the life in there. So far I haven't considered the fact that my main tank might not be cycled at the moment. my best guess was that my QT was simply too small.
<<Very little question in my mind, now, that your "big" tank is completely cycled. As to your thinking about the QT being too small, it's possible given the variables involved, i.e. higher concentrations of ammonia per liter of water, debatable quantities of bacteria in the filter media, etc.>>
I haven't been home yet today, but hopefully my little tang will still be alright.
<<I'll keep my fingers crossed for you and your pet, as well.>>
Let me know if you have any additional comments on this please.
<<Leave at least one of the add-on filters in the QT and stick with the water changes. I don't know how much ammonia you're detecting and, of course, no ammonia is the ideal, but I still think you can work through this without possibly endangering all that you have in the main aquarium.>>
Thanks again for your assistance.
Chris
<<My pleasure, Chris. Tom>>

Re: Problem with quarantine tank  - 05/17/2006
Hi Tom,
<<How are you, Chris?>>
Thanks again for the reply.. this is the last mail from me.
<<Going somewhere? :)>>
I just tested the water again. The ammonia seem to be somewhere between 0.03 and 0.05 mg/litre (my test kit only measures in mg/l). I'm not sure how high that is, but at least it seems quite low.
<<Well, mg/l = ppm (parts per million). If you're only detecting hundredths of a part per million, I'd say you're in pretty good shape. Zero is best but I'd say you're as reasonably close to that as might be expected under the circumstances.>>
The Tang still looks a picture of health, so I'll continue the water changes for now and monitor closely.
<<Very glad to hear good news about your Tang.>>
Just one last question. should I stop feeding him for a while (including Nori) ?
<<Not necessary to cease feeding, Chris, but you might do so minimally. It sounds like you're "out of the woods" with the ammonia problem but a little caution won't hurt here.>>
Ps. I've also had some great help from the ladies crew. so I know what you mean :)
<<They're all very good, indeed.>>
Have a nice evening.
<<Do the same, Chris.>>
Thanks
Chris
<<Any time at all. Tom>>

Heniochus in the Reef, and QT Clarification  - 04/19/06
Dear WWM Crew:
<Hi Sam.>
I really appreciate what you do to promote the hobby and to keep the world happy and healthy!
<You are welcome and thank you for the compliments my friend.>
I have been a good WWM user for months now,
<Awesome!>
totally self-sufficient and amazed by how many times you've had just the right answers ready and waiting.  
<Great.>
Through all of my research I put together a nice 75 gallon reef with fuge, sump, all that good stuff.
<Sounds fun.>
The tank is very stable with coral, live sand, live rock, cleanup crew--even a Borneman anemone that hitchhiked on a frag.
<Cool.>
Now I'm finally permitting myself to begin thinking about fish.  
<I admire your patience.>
A local reefer told me very matter of factly that the ultimate fish to get would be a Heniochus diphreutes (pennant banner butterflyfish).  
<Well they aren’t my favorite by any means, but they are attractive and a much better alternative to those interested in Moorish Idols.>
I have to agree that this is a spectacularly beautiful fish, but I hear mixed reviews as to whether they'd be reef safe (personality driven?)
<My experience is that they are quite safe with most stony corals (SPS) but can pick at easier (meatier) targets such as Zoanthus. But I have seen them exist happily and problem reef in many a reef tanks, but I still think they are a slight risk.>
and whether one would be happy in a 75.  
<Well that would be the BARE minimum in my opinion for one of these specimens.>
What's the verdict on this from your perspective?
<See above.>
Second, as a truly conscientious aquarist, I am going to setup a QT.
<I’m very glad to hear this.>
Assuming I can have a Heniochus diphreutes, what is the minimum size you recommend for a QT?  Would a 20 gallon work for this?  
<Yes depending on the size of the specimen in question.>
And how does one cycle the QT with an HOB filter to prepare for the fish?
Should I run it first in my sump for a few weeks?  If you plopped it in there, I assume the ammonia would quickly spike.  You've never
sufficiently answered how one gets a QT ready for a new occupant. Please enlighten me!
<Please read this article by past-crew member Steven Pro, it isn’t found on WWM but I like it A LOT!: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.php .>
Again, thanks for all the hard work and the brilliant answers!
<Quite welcome, anytime.>
Sam
<Adam J.>

Quarantine Tank - 4/14/2006
Hi Crew
<<Hi John.>>
I have been running a marine system for about eight months now and about two months ago, a disease found its way in to the tank with a new fish. I did not have a quarantine tank at the time but I am in the process of cycling one at the moment.
<<You had to learn the hard way, didn’t you? :) I am sure you will always have one on-hand now.>>
It is a small 65 litre (around 17 US gallons) tank with a small internal filter and an Aragonite Coral Sand bed about 3" thick.
<<I recommend a bare bottom, or very shallow sand bed in a QT tank, for ease of maintenance and treatment.>>
When the cycle is complete, I will be putting in some live rock for extra filtration.
<<Long-term, live rock is not recommended for QT tanks either.  Parasites and unwanted things can find refuge in there, and if the need to treat an affected fish arises, the live rock with absorb the medications, and will likely become base rock in no time.  I recommend using large PVC elbows in lieu of live rock, to provide hiding places.  As far as filtration is concerned, frequent or daily water changes with display, and freshly made water will ensure high water-quality.>>
Although I will be using this tank as a quarantine tank for any new or sick fish, I would like to keep a couple of hardy fish in there to keep the tank ticking over and to keep it interesting as it is in my kitchen and will make a nice little focal point.
<<Again, I am sorry to disagree here, but you should not keep fish in a quarantine tank for anything other than the tank is intended for.  Constantly exposing these fish to unquarantined newcomers is irresponsible, and the stress associated with constant exposure to treatments for sick fish is unfair.  Furthermore, a QT tank is also meant to be a quiet refuge for newly imported fish, to give them time to relax, and be trained onto the foods we offer, without competition, so keeping other fish in there constantly really negates the entire purpose of running a QT tank.>>
I am considering a couple of black and white perculas as they are among my favourite fish and I've been told they will do perfectly well in a small tank. What I want to ask is:
1) Will the clowns be a good choice?
<<I do not believe any fish is a good choice for a permanent resident of a QT tank.  These clowns, especially if captive breed, are great additions to many main systems though.>>
2) How many can I keep together?
<<In a main display, I would recommend a mated pair.>>
3) Which fish would be best to sift the sand in such a small tank along with the clowns? (I do enjoy watching my goby in my larger tank but can't find a goby that I like that is suitable for the tank size).
<<I really cannot recommend a fish to be kept in QT indefinitely.>>
Please help.
<<Please search WWM for quarantine tank procedure and set-up.>>
Thank you in advance, for what I am sure will be informed and helpful advice.
Sincerely
John Fletcher
<<Glad to help.  Lisa.>>

QT systems   03/07/06
Thanks for the help Bob,
<Welcome Joe>
I would also like to ask about my 10g QT tank. I am confused between the recommendations of those who advocate that a small QT tank is easier to setup when needed, given that a set of filter media has been seeded from the main tank along with main tank water used) and those who say that there will still be a nitrite/nitrate/ammonia spike despite using this method. Which is more correct?
<Mmm, both, either...>
If I decide to setup my 10g permanently (well, only for the next few months as I only plan to add several more fish) and, after it has
cycled I plan to leave it running for about a month or so before quarantining a fish, what chemistry fluctuation should I expect when I add livestock?
<Mmm... escalating nitrogenous material likely, perhaps some forestalled nitrification issues>
After I add a fish, approximately what percentage of the water should I replace with main display water and how often, in your experience?
<I would test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH... and change some accordingly...>
Would I need to conduct any water changes if there are no fish in a Qt tank?
<Not likely, no>
Does beneficial bacteria in water 'stay alive' when there are no fish?
<Only to a degree... a good practice here is to siphon some of your main/display tank water (during water changes) into the QT system... add a bit of food weekly or so...>
I also question the reason one should conduct a Qt tank water change with main tank water (despite the acclimatization benefits) when that water has
the potential to have high nitrates?
<Mmm, well... hopefully not "too" high...>
(Obviously our goal is to keep nitrates as low as possible). I have a spare 3ft which I can set up as a permanent Qt tank although I presume the economic cost of doing so will be larger than operating the 10g?
<I'd guess about three times or so...>
In your opinion which should I go for?
<Either could be set-up "on the fly"... with water from your main system... used filter media, perhaps some substrate if appropriate>
If there is an outbreak, won't the 3ft be harder to scrub clean?
<Yes>
(Not to mention the cost of the salt!)
My last concern relates to the fact that if I decide to buy one or two medium size (about 4-5") fish at once, will the small size of the 10g limit
the benefits of the QT and/or harm the livestock?
<Yes>
By the way, is it possible for a 12" Snowflake eel to fit a small (2") H. acuminatus in its mouth?
<Might try, though unlikely if fed otherwise>
It has disappeared over night! I have read you article on H. acuminatus and realized that I have purchased these specimens
quite small (2"). What do you think are my chances of having these survive and grow into healthy fish?
<If started very healthy (likely caught quite locally for you), this genus is about the best started small... of Chaetodontids. Bob Fenner>
Thanks as always,
Joe

Re: QT systems - 03/07/2006
Ok, I've decided to use the 3ft (40g) as quarantine. Now with my spare 10g I plan to use it as a refugium. If I fill it with live rock and live sand (if I can get some...I'm guessing a beach is the best place?),
<Mmm, no... see WWM re>
will it essentially serve the same purpose as those refugiums which you promote on the site and in your book?
<Some of the same purposes...>
Or is a plant a necessity?  
Finally, my main objective is to reduce nitrates to a minimum...is the refugium going to be worth it regarding this objective?
<... please, study my friend. Your answers and more that will come soon are posted. Bob Fenner>

QT Tank Size - 3/4/2006
You guys must be tired of hearing from me by now. :-)
<<Nope ļ>>
I have a dilemma regarding my QT Tank. I recently purchased a 10-gallon QT tank, which contains an old Aquaclear T hang on filter I had, along with an air stone and heater. I have been keeping freshwater fish for 3 years now, and have only been in the saltwater hobby for about a month. Since then I have come to realize the limitations such a QT brings with it. Am I accurate in presuming that during a QT period, I would go through quite a few nitrate test kits and considerable time doing water changes, if I were to keep the QT tank in peak condition for the fish in it?
<<Maybe.  Small daily water changes using display tank water will limit the time required here.>>
I have an old standard 3 ft tank with a capacity of approximately 40-gallons, and I am now considering using this as the QT tank for the sole purpose of lessening the effects of unstable water chemistry.
<<Larger water volumes are3 more stable, yes.>>
Will the Aquaclear be sufficient filtration for the 3ft QT tank?
<<Depends on the fish kept in QT.>>
Apart from the heater and airstone, will I need to purchase any additional hardware?
<<Perhaps PVC elbows for refuge.  Such is posted on WWM.>>
The reason I stopped using the 3ft was that, along with my Freshwater African Cichlid 5ft tank and my main marine 8ft Tank, the maintenance got a bit too much for me. I know I may be going on a bit tediously, although I am grateful for your attention. I would like your opinion on whether I should implement the 3ft as the QT tank (I know bigger is better) in regards to any extra maintenance/costs (as opposed to keeping the 10g tank) during a quarantine and otherwise.
<<The lager tank is more stable, and therefore more forgiving in regards to maintenance.  If I were in your place, I would use this for the QT, as opposed to the 10-gallon.  That said, a 10-gallon is much easier to set up/take down when needed.  If you have a place you can keep the large QT tank set up, all the better.>>
I appreciate immensely your time and generosity,
Joe
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Quarantine tank   3/3/06
Bob, <Hi Norb - Tim answering your question today!>
40 years have passed since I was a freshwater enthusiast. I could cure
almost any fish disease around. <Truly gifted!> People brought me sick fish and I was always
so happy to return them in good as new condition. Now, comes the new Christmas present, salt water tank. I know I need to set
up a quarantine tank ASAP <I would definitely recommend a QT tank before you introduce any fish into your main tank>. How do I set it up when so many of the medicines
kill LR and other bacteria needed to keep the Nitrogen cycle in line.
Malachite really lowers pH in a hurry. Do you have setup and running
instructions for a refugium/quarantine/hospital tank? Thanks in advance. <Norb - the refugium and quarantine tank should not be the same thing. The refugium will typically share a water supply with the main display tank, often as part of a sump setup but not necessarily so. The quarantine tank (QT) is completely separated from the main tank. When setting-up your QT, you should essentially be creating a small marine system, with appropriate filtration, lighting, heating etc. to ensure appropriate water quality. But the actual tank should be bare - do not add any substrate or live rock to your QT. This is not only, as you have pointed out, because any medication will usually also kill the beneficial bacteria, but also because the rocks and substrate will absorb the medication, reducing the concentration of the medication in the water and thereby reducing the efficiency of the treatment. You may want to offer your fish some artificial resin-based structures in the QT, allowing them to hide and thereby reducing stress, but be sure to clean these and the tank after each treatment. Also note that if you use a protein skimmer in your QT tank, this will typically need to be switched off during medication. Any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask.>
Norb Schulz

Re: Quarantine tank   3/3/06
Tim, <Hi Norb!>
Thanks for your prompt answer <Always a pleasure!>. How do I control the nitrogen cycle in the QT
tank? <The bacteria required for the nitrogen cycle will develop naturally on all surfaces in the QT - including any filtration media that you use. To get things started I would suggest pouring some of the water from your established system into the QT. After that, it is simply a matter of keeping the bottom of the tank clean through regular vacuuming and k