Adding sump/Fuge to a nano -12/14/07 Dear Mr. Fenner & Crew, <Hello again Pearson> Below, you will find my previous correspondence for reference. I couldn't find the original emails, so I just copied them from the FAQs. <Ah, good> I wanted to thank you again for your input, and to let y'all know I finally went ahead with this project. A few nights ago, I successfully drilled and plumbed my JBJ Nanocube 12 gallon tank to accommodate a 15 gallon sump/refugium. While I have never drilled a tank before, nor done any kind of DIY projects related to aquaria, it turned out to be pretty straight forward. There were a couple of design considerations I took into account that may be of use to someone else considering doing something similar. <I thank you for sharing your experiences, observations> I decided to plumb the return line into the display portion of the tank, and the drain line in the last chamber of the rear section of the tank. This way, the rear section functions as an overflow of sorts, and still causes water to flow through all three rear chambers, so they can still be used to house LR rubble, carbon, a heater, or whatever else you might have back there. I also made sure to line up the return bulkhead with the location of the existing hole in the rear wall of the display tank where the stock MaxiJet pump outlet was, so I could take advantage of that hole, and not have to drill a new/larger hole. This also allows me to return to the stock configuration if I ever need to. I would only have to seal the bulkheads, and place the MaxiJet back in place. <All sounds/reads as reasonable> The benefits of this experiment are already evident. I'm using a Mag 2 as a return pump. Flow in the display is increased, and at the same time temperature is decreased. I now have plenty of room in the sump for growing macro, a DSB, more live rock, one or more media reactors (Phosban, carbon, what have you), an automatic top-off system, room to fit a decent skimmer, without having to resort to one of those tiny nano skimmers, not to mention the increased water volume and system stability. <Yes> Attached are a couple of pictures for reference. If you feel any of this might be helpful to others, please do post. <I will definitely do so> A great big thanks to everyone at WWM for all that you do for the hobby and hobbyists, and for helping me work out this project. Pearson <I REALLY wish that a couple friends/crewmembers here would crank out a title on "Aquarium Engineering"... such a work (DIY, mathematics...) with good graphics could/would help so MANY folks. Thank you again for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Outstanding.

DSB and Berlin system - 08/05/07
Hi Crew!
<Hi Casey!>
I've been planning out a 29 gallon reef (my first one) for a while now. I'm pretty set on using the Berlin method. Currently the tank is a fish only with a sailfin molly and a false clown. I'll be curing live rock soon and then, maybe in a few months (or longer) I'll add some corals and other inverts. I've got an Aqua C Remora up and running and when the LR moves in, the old power filter is moving out.
What do you say about substrate when using Berlin?
<Berlin system (named for the residence of the developers) sensu stricto means: Plenty of live rock, strong skimming of surface water (sometimes in a sump), strong current, carbon, dosing of trace elements, Kalkwasser and strong lighting. Following the original philosophy, no or only a thin layer of substrate is employed, because substrate was thought to become a nitrate factory.>
I currently have very rough grade crushed coral because that is what the store had at the time and I never dreamed of converting to a reef (nor did I know much of anything about salt aquaria). I hate it (The crushed coral, that is), but I want a substrate. Can I do a DSB?
<Oh yes.>
I was thinking of using sugar grain sized aragonite.
<Okay.>
I figure I can move it in before I begin curing my rock (I can use my curing setup to house the fish while I do the transfer).
<I’d start with the rock (possibly on a thin sheet of Styrofoam) and then add the sand. If you simply put the rocks onto the sand, the rock work will be much less stable.>
I expect it would be a good idea to at least seed it with some live sand as well (I can't afford an entire bed of live sand) to get the sand-specific flora that won't come off the rock. Right?
<Live sand is ok, but even better is a little well populated sand from another hobbyists tank. You can use that to seed your aragonite.>
The reason I ask is because I've read a lot about Berlin systems embracing the bare-bottom and I absolutely hate the way that looks! So, I guess the question is: does Berlin just embrace a bare bottom, or does it require one?
<You can have a DSB, if it has a minimum depth of 4 inches (See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm and the linked files for more information, maintenance advice and further opinions), but I would not call it Berlin anymore. The DSB will produce nitrates, but it will also provide natural nitrate reduction and ultimately turn organic waste into harmless gaseous nitrogen. Most of my smaller tanks have been/are like what you are thinking about. Very easy to maintain and the DSB sometimes even provides enough natural nitrification and denitrification so the skimmers had to be taken out of some of the systems to leave at least minimum nitrates and phosphates for the corals.>
Thanks for your time and your wonderful site.
<You are welcome.>
I don't know where I'd be without it (probably the fish graveyard).
<Okay, but don’t go through the woods to bury them at the ancient Micmac burial ground…>
-Casey
<Cheers, Marco.>

30 gallon aquarium with Eheim 2234, media for a can. stkg. a small SW...   7/27/07
Hello,
<Hi to you>
I've just started my first saltwater tank, and the tank is "vacant" at the moment as it is cycling. However, I do have a couple of questions:
1. I am planning on adding about 20 to 25 pounds of live rock to provide bio filtration and I also have Eheim 2234 Ecco canister filter. What type of media would you recommend for this type of filter to get the best water filtration possible and how would layer each media. Eheim's webpage is limited in that regards and I would like to use other media (Marineland, Seachem) to achieve the best results?
<I would use the Eheim media (it's superior), the ceramic, coarse, fine and perhaps occasionally place carbon... last in the order of flow path>
Im also planning on buying AquaC Remora protein skimmer and would like to find out what would be the best possible combination of filter media to maintain healthy looking aquarium.
<...? Filter media in the skimmer? There is none>
Im planning on adding 2 percula clownfish, 2 firefish and 2 chromis and a tank cleaning crew.
<... Not the Chromis along with the Clowns here... and really not the Microdesmid... Please, research before acquisition... WWM... re Compatibility, Systems...>
Thanks for your help!!
<Keep reading and you'll likely do fine... if nothing else you'll make less mistakes, understand the ones you do make better. Bob Fenner>

Possibility of connecting multiple nano reef tanks to one refugium  7/12/07
Hello
I have been spending a lot of time reading your site, and looking on the web through google. I really like your web site. Keep up the good work. I have not been able to find the answer to this question. What I have been thinking of doing is getting 3 separate 14 gallon Oceanic BioCube, and drilling a bulkhead hole in the back just above the sump pump. Then I would like to send the output of each of the pumps to a single AquaFuge Pro sump refugium. Then I was thinking of sending the return from the refugium to another separate bulkhead that I would drill in each of the BioCube. My problem is I do not know if this is possible.
<As you've described it, no, impractical... How would the water returning to the cubes "know" when to stop? Alternatively, one way this can be made to work is to have the water gravity drain from the tanks to the fuge, and be pumped back up to them...>
I have one BioCube that has been up and running right now since January of 2007 with no losses. I want to keep this up. What is really troubling is a working drawing of how to connect them where it will work.
<Mmm, you're welcome to make one up and send it to us for a look/see>
Main problem is the return. I was looking at a Mag drive MD7 as the return pump from the refugium, but what I don't know is if I can just split
the output of the pump into 3 separate return lines to get this to work.
<Can... with valves>
Or might there be some other way. If possible could I get a small sketch of something that might work, or should I just abandon this idea as crazy. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration.
Randy
<Try this all out on paper... And do take a look at the super DIY aquarium site: Ozreef.org. BobF>

Sump tank, Filter Placement 7/3/07
This might be a dumb question but I’m thinking of doing a sump tank for my 29 gallon saltwater aquarium and I was wondering if I have to keep the power
filter in the main tank or put it in the sump. Thanks
<It can be placed in the sump, and most people do so it is out of sight, but does not have to be there.>
<Chris>

Quiet filtration for a sm. reef   6/23/07
I am trying to make a decision about the filtration system for my 25 gallon reef tank. My biggest concern is NOISE. I have returned a 12 gallon AquaPod to my LFS because the noise it generated was driving me crazy!!!! I can hear sound at a higher frequency than normal so sound pollution is a genuine concern for me. After days of research, I am trying to decide between a Tunze Nano DOC Protein Skimmer and a Eheim Ecco Canister filter.
<Both very good units, though "do" both "filter" and there is some overlap in function...>
Which would you recommend?
<Actually... both... unless you have some other source of mechanical filtration...>
Or is there something else that you would recommend, keeping in mind the noise issue?
<Mmmm... what do you keep?>
My LFS was very good about taking the tank back, but I didn't have enough time to get another complete system up and running and so my critters are back in a 6 gallon Eclipse.
<Yikes!>
This wouldn't be a major problem since they were happy in the Eclipse for months EXCEPT that I broke my own rule about extreme restraint and made some additional purchases for the AquaPod, and now the Eclipse is too crowded. I am feeding my clownfish lightly, but my sun polyps are probably starving. Some of the rock and critters need to be moved as soon as possible.
<Yes!>
I put 1" of live sand from the pod into this new 25 gallon tank and have about 10-12 lbs live rock which I will move when everything else is up and running. I will also add additional live rock once its cured. I cannot move the rocks yet because I have mushrooms, polyps and other creatures living on them.
I very anxious about this situation. Other than frequent water changes is there anything you would recommend until I get the other tank running?
<Water changes with pre-made stored synthetic of matching spg>
What about the live sand? I have a heater running in the new tank, and I'm running airstones for a couple of hours a day; is this sufficient for the present?
<Not IMO... need to be moved. Stat!>
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.--Katherine
<If you can afford them, I'd get, use both filters... you'll have to service, switch out the media in the Ecco weekly... Bob Fenner>

Re: quiet filtration   6/25/07
Dear Bob.
<Katherine>
Thank you for your response to my e-mail. I don't remember if you want me to reply using the reply function or not.
<Mmm, sure>
I saw this info somewhere on your website but couldn't find it this morning. Sorry if I'm doing it wrong; let me know what you prefer and I'll do it right next time.
First, I'm not very good at web speak. Could you please translate this for me: <Not IMO...need to be moved. Stat!> Sounds ominous.
<Heeee! Sorry re... IMO is an acronym for In My Opinion... and stat is from the Latin, sto, stari, s... to stand... but in the medical biz. means "quick" as in "now"!>
And is this in reference to the live sand in the new tank moved into the new tank or the overcrowded conditions in the small tank?
<This latter... I'd be doing all this ASAP...>
Thanks and sorry for being a little illiterate.
<No worries>
Couldn't get online yesterday so I put a Tetra Whisper In-Tank Filter I bought several years ago and never used into the large tank.
<Good>
Also have been running to large airstones whenever I'm not in the room. (My pump for these is REALLY noisy--I normally use it when I'm making up new saltwater.)
In response to whether you had other suggestions on very quiet filtration for the new tank, you asked what I keep. Here it is: a fairly large number of purple mushrooms (large because they reproduced in my Eclipse); one green 'pimple' mushroom, about the size of a quarter but growing rapidly; green star polyps (Pachyclavularia); a colony of sun corals (Tubastraea); Chili Coral (Alcyonium); zooanthids; one young clownfish (A. polymnus); one blue legged hermit crab; a number of small white brittle stars which hitchhiked in
on some live rock. These coexisted happily in the Eclipse.
<Ahh, I see... All the more reason to suggest, urge "multiple" and redundant filtration...>
After I set up the AquaPod, I added more live rock, more zooanthids, one peppermint shrimp (L. wurdemanni) and a branching hammer coral (Euphyllia parancora).
In the new tank, once everything is stable, I want to add either an anemone for my clown or a couple of LPS corals and xenias, as well as 1-2 gobies with shrimp. Eventually I want a mate for my clownfish, but may have to wait until I have an even bigger system. What do you think?
<I would wait>
Again thank you so much for your help and advice. The website is great|
--Katherine
<Thank you for being part of it, and sorry for the lack of clarity. Bob Fenner>

High Nitrites, Cycling 4/6/07
Hey crew, I have an 8 gallon bio cube that has been up for about 2 weeks. I have 8 pounds of live rock with some polyps and a toadstool mushroom leather coral and also a pajama cardinal and a royal Gramma. <Way too much way too fast, need to cycle the tank first.>  My live rock has also  been growing some brown algae on it. My LFS gave me some of there water so I could start it quickly. <Worthless, the bacteria you are trying to culture lives on solid surfaces, not in the water column.> My recent water tests have shown a spike in nitrite and nitrate levels.  <Expected, your tank is cycling.> I have done my water changes and everything but the water is  the same. I went to another fish store and they gave me some liquid to lower the nitrites.  <What was it called?>  I’m not sure what it was called because they gave me a sample only, it had something to do with the bacteria. <Unless it is Bio-Spira kept refrigerated it is of no use.>  So then they told me I need a skimmer but I really don’t want one because since its only an 8 gallon it would look horrible in the tank. <Your tank would greatly benefit from it.>  So if you could give me some suggestions on what to do it would be helpful.
<An 8 gallon nano is almost impossible to keep, its going to be lots of work.  At most you could keep one very small fish in there.  Also your tank needs to cycle, see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm for more.>
<Chris>

Nano Skimmer 5/6/07
Thanks for the good info, I have read some threads about ordinary people having skimmers on there nanos but nobody from the crew yet. Do you guys have a preferred  skimmer for the nano.  <I believe Aqua C now has a nano skimmer, I am a big fan of their products.  Otherwise check out some of the forums to see what people's opinions are.> I’m thinking about trying out the fission since its only thirty bucks. Sapphire makes a skimmer but its 80 dollars more.
<Generally with skimmers you get what you pay for.>
<Chris>

Canister Filter / Lighting Question   4/16/07
Hello WWM Crew people!
<Hello Kevin>
So I got a really good kick in the butt e-mail from someone on there about a horrible set-up that I had with a 10 gallon tank, a whole mess of salt water fish and a horrible protein skimmer.  After a few months, I was left with only one surviving damselfish and an anemone that was sold to me by some crooked dude whose business looked like he was doing some "fish hustle".
Needless to say, I have changed my ways and upgraded a bit after doing some MORE research (by the way, you guys have answers for just about everything on this website that it's ridiculous).  I have limited space in my room so I wanted something nano, and I know how much some people on this site have expressed their hatred for nano set-ups.
<Nothing wrong with a nano if done properly.  I've seen really nice looking nanos.>
This is what I currently have:
Hardware:
28 gallon Odyssea Fish Tank
Prism Pro Protein Skimmer
Magnum Pro Canister Filter
Livestock:
35 Lbs Live Rock
1 Unknown Damselfish
1 Domino Damsel
<Yikes!  Find a home for this guy.  Will become very aggressive with age and they do grow quite fast.>
1 Maroon Clown
<Tank is/will be too small for this fish.>
1 Coral Beauty
<<Way too small for this Angel... RMF>>
1 Cleaner Shrimp
2 Mini Hermit Crabs (used to be 5, those things are cannibals)
<Do provide various sizes of empty shells.  They are more than likely killing for larger quarters.>
1 Condylactis Anemone (surprisingly hosted by the Maroon and looking VERY much in love with each other).
<Anemones do not fit in well in community systems.  The possibility of other fish being stung is always present.>
2 feather dusters
So, I've run this set up for 2 months.  I'm religious at cleaning the skimmer out and have been doing water changes once every two weeks.  I have not tested the water yet (will be going to the LFS to get a free test, test kits / boosters for ph, alkalinity, etc. to try and get better colors out of my live rock /coral polyps growing on the live rock).  My question is about the canister filter.  I bought the filter before doing enough research on this site about how in most marine set-ups, canister filters don't do the job that people expect them to do.  I'm currently running it with the basket insert, some exterior floss media (at least that's what it looks like to me) and some white carbon in the basket insert.
<Nothing wrong with canister filters providing they are cleaned on a weekly basis.  I've never heard of white carbon, must be some other type of chemical media.>
The canister filter is pretty much the only water flow in the tank, and I had read that canister filters are notorious for not doing their job at cleaning marine tanks as well as wet/dries.
<Weekly maintenance is the key here.>
I cleaned it out this weekend and boy did it smell funky, but I'm sure the fish were happier with me doing so.  I read on this site that you have to clean them quite often in marine set-ups.
<Any system, not just marine.>
Is there anything that I can do to the canister filter, add some type of media or whatever that might be able to give me more time between cleanings?
<Ah, we are trying to find shortcuts already.  Can't be done my friend. Weekly cleanings must be done.  Cannot allow collected nutrients/waste to remain in the tank.  They are still in the system, just relocated.>
Also, I did some research on the power compact lighting that came with the tank, and it's pretty much crap (something like 35 watt maximum).  Do you have any suggestions on how I can get a better light set up in there, places that might sell different types of fixtures that I can install myself, etc.?
I did research on the Condy and it seems they don't mind less lighting,
<Mmm, wrong here.  They require a high light level.  As for light fixtures, a Google search will provide links to plenty of etailers selling such.>
but I wanted to check it out just in case.  
Thanks for your help!
<You're welcome, and do search/read about animals before you buy.  Ensure you can provide the requirements/needs of the animal and it's compatibility with others you may have.  James (Salty Dog)>
Kevin

Small Refuge Setup for a Nano-Reef, subst. biota  3/27/07
Hello Bob ... greetings from Manila, Philippines.
<And to you my friend, from Hawai'i's Big Island>
I've spent many hours reading your FAQ's .. so much great information on your site.  Thank you.  I hope you'll have time to answer my questions.
<Will try>
I'm setting up a 20-gallon tank, first FOWLR then moving into SPS.  I plan to go skimmerless.  I'm planning on a 5.5-gallon refuge.
<Okay>
Given that I'm going skimmerless, do you think I at least need a 10-gallon refuge, or can I get away with 5.5-gallons?
<"The bigger the better"...>
Also given that it is a small tank, 14" tall, I'm planning the following: 2-inches Miracle Mud on the bottom, 4-inches sugar-fine sand, 2-inches crushed shell on top.
<Mmm, I encourage you to somehow partition the "Mud" from the calcareous substrates... maybe with Siliconed glass partitions.>
This leaves less than 5 inches for my water space/Chaeto.  Is this water space too small?
<Mmm, no. Not too small>
I know your a fan of DSB's, but with a small tank, is this deep enough to encourage denitrification?  Is this the correct order and depth?
<Yes and yes>
I've read about methane pockets that can occur in DSB's which crash systems.  Some people stir up sand to release any small forming gases.  Others feel that the sand should not be disturbed as it will interrupt the denitrification process (I think this is your stance).  If I choose not to disturb the sand, how will I deal with methane gas pockets?
<I would not disturb this sand bed>
Is it a good idea to have any other critters in my refuge: i.e. hermit crabs
<Mmm, no... are too predaceous>
for any detritus, or larger brittle stars for sand movement?
Regards,
Jason B
<I would leave these in if they were natural recruits... but otherwise just count on incidental recruiting of various invertebrate infauna from your live rock in the main tank here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Small Refuge Setup for a Nano-Reef  3/28/07
Bob, you're great! :)  Thanks for replying.  I have a reply to your reply.
> <Mmm, I encourage you to somehow partition the "Mud"
> from the calcareous substrates... maybe with
> Siliconed glass partitions.>
If I split the tank in two with a glass partition, one side would have 2-inch miracle mud on the bottom, and 6 inches of sand on top - the other side would have 4 inches of sand on the bottom, and 2 inches of crushed shell/rubble on top.  Does this sound good?
<Mmm, I'd add the larger shell/rubble right on top of the sand... the sand on the bottom, w/ or w/o a screen, the rubble on top. BobF>
Jason

10" Miracle Mud & 10-Gallon DSB/Refugium - 04/04/07
Hello Buddies...quiet night here in Makati, Philippines, I'm Jason.
<<Greetings Jason...EricR here again...and tis a beautiful 79-degree evening here in Columbia, SC as well>>
I'm constantly changing my DSB/refuge design after reading so much on your site - this will be for a 20 gallon nano-SPS (skimmerless) tank (not yet running).
<<I'm a huge fan of the DSB with macroalgae refugium methodology myself>>
I thought a 10 gallon tank (12 inches high) would be fine.
<<Thought about this myself in our earlier exchanges...not much volume to work with really>>
However, 12-inches isn't deep enough, so I think I will have a custom made tank, still roughly 10-12 gallons.
<<Mmm, do consider this...many public aquaria utilize refugiums of equal or greater volume than the displays they support>>
After reading many of your FAQs and suggestions, an 8-inch sand bed, 2-inch crushed coral on top.
<<Though it provides a differing habitat, the crushed coral is not "necessary">>
That's 10 inches so far.  I know a DSB can't be too deep, but will I still get the same effect if I have a total of 8 inches (6" for sand, and 2" for the crushed coral)?
<<Would be fine>>
I'll have an external pump on my main tank, pushing water up to my refuge thru a bulk head.
<<I do recall>>
I'll have the bulkhead 2-inches from the top (is this too low?) and 1.5 inches in diameter.
<<Is fine>>
So that's around 4-inches there.
<<Ok>>
Would 4-inches of water space be sufficient for Chaeto, or should this be deeper?
<<Is all relative...the lower water depth simply means "pruning" the Chaetomorpha more often to "fit" the space>>
So far, my running height of the tank would be 18-inches... That's gonna be taller than my main tank, and not exactly want I want displayed (since my refuge will also be shown, and not hidden).
<<The biota in the refugium can be every bit as interesting as that in the "display" tank>>
Can you guys help me shrink the size down ... while still having an effective DSB?
<<Reducing the DSB to 6-inches will still be effective...and give you a bit more room for the macroalgae>>
You guys also suggested that I could split the tank with a glass partition if I wanted to have some Miracle Mud... If I did that, I would have a 10" glass partition, one side to hold the sand/coral. the other to have 10" deep Miracle-Mud. is this wise? :) <<Might be worth the experimentation...but personally I wouldn't bother>>
Thank you guys :)
Jason
<<Always welcome, EricR>>

Cascade 300 Internal for 3g w/sump – 03/18/07
Okay so this is kind of a random question... I got a 3g pico, drilled, with a 2.5g sump that is set up all happy and nice with barely 1/2" of sand, seeded from my established tank, around 2lbs of liverock with some zoos
<Toxic... trouble for such a small volume>
and a little xenia. There's 3 small PC lights on there that are so bright, you can see the bedroom glowing outside at night :) There's also a really sad looking brown clown goby,
<Not suitable behaviorally for such a small space... live on expansive Acropora tables...>
who refused to eat in the big tank, and now looks like some sort of refugee from hell who refuses to eat currently. (Cyclop-eeze, fresh shrimp, brine shrimp, etc doesn't care for) I guess he just gave up hope for life. At any rate. I got a Cascade 300 Internal Filter that's set up just barely fitting in the refugium area of the sump but its kind of noisy... Its supposedly 70gph for tanks up to 10g so am I kind of over filtering?
<Possibly over circulating>
More is better than less I figured since half the time the advertised GPH is much different than what really happens.
<This is so>
I have it set up with the little air hose
above the tank level and the water its spitting out is just... loud! Would getting the flexible air tubing and just maneuvering that around help it not be so "shshsghshgshgsgh" or should I get a different filter?
<The latter>
I like the idea of an internal filter so the sump water level doesn't have to be so high for a hang-on filter but there's so few choices for the pico/nano genre of tanks.
<Look into other brands... Eheim, Rena... May have to order through catalogs, the Net>
I like the fact that it gives you choices in filter media, as the Stingray internal filters are so bleh and fat. Should I just wait a while and see if it quiets down with the flexible air hose if I can find it? Or do you have any better recommendations on the filter?
<See above>
Also... if the clown goby finally decides to just die or do something other than stare at his food forlornly, would a skunk clown be too big for that tank?
<See WWM, Fishbase.org, the Net re... the real answer, no... Your space is too small>
I mean, I've had experience with a bigger set up but the tank is pretty nifty and so are skunk clowns, and from what I've seen they don't get as big as even false Percs.. right?
<... See... Bob Fenner>

Filtration, Keep the filter with the Seaclone skimmer.   2/23/07
<Greetings, Mich here.>
This might be a stupid question but I just started a 29 gallon marine tank and I was wondering if I have a filter running along with the SeaClone 100 protein skimmer or just run the skimmer by itself?
<Probably best to use both here.  Seaclone skimmers are typically quite problematic.  More info here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacloneskimfaqs.htm  Hope that helps,  -Mich>

Nano-Reef Plumbing  2/1/07
Your site is excellent. Great Info!
I have searched and have found tons of info on larger systems.
I want to keep my bulkhead as small as possible, because it is a small tank and esthetics are extremely important. My question is should I go with ½" or 3/4" bulkhead in my AGA Mini-Bow 7?
<Likely the 1/2">
These bulkheads will be going into the back side of aquarium. Also, how far from the edges of the glass do the edges of the holes need to be?
<Mmm, two inches or so>
Thanks for your help!
Awesome site! Keep up the excellent work!
Matt
<Will do. Bob Fenner>

Bio-Media in Nano Tanks  2/1/07
Hi there
<Hey Paul.>
I am just cycling a 12 gallon (UK) nano cube (orca tl-450).
<Cool.>
I have a 1 1/2cm layer of crushed coral substrate, 6 kilo of cured live rock and the water in the tank is being moved around by an 800 lph and a 400lph powerheads. The tank has a built in protein skimmer and uv sterilizer and also a large sponge and some bio balls in the filter compartments. My question is, should I remove the sponge and bio balls and just rely on the live rock and 15% water changes every two weeks, or should I leave everything as it is?
<The live rock should provide adequate biological filtration.....you could remove the bio-media completely or replace it w/ live-rock rubble...either way.>
I don't want the sponge to become clogged with all the wrong nitrates, nitrates, ammonia etc!!!
<Can be a detritus/particle trap.>
Great site by the way, very useful
<Thank-you.>
Paul (England)
<Adam J (SoCal).>

Stocking and filtration in a 29g BioCube    12/9/06
Hi all,
<Hello Linda! Mich here.  Do you have family in Pennsylvania?  Your last name is familiar.>  
I've been reading your site and have already gotten a lot of good info, but I have a few specific questions about my system.  I've had my tank up and running for about 2.5 months now and, after some initial success, I've had a bit of a setback.  I have a 29g BioCube that I stocked with 20lbs of live rock and 30lbs of live sand.  
<OK>
The unit also has a carbon filter and bioballs (I also bought a Fission nano skimmer but haven't set it up yet).
<Skimmer is a good addition.  Bioball would be a good subtraction.>
It has high intensity fluorescent lighting that is
appropriate for the clam and coral, and I've added an extra water pump (in addition to the one that comes with the system) to increase circulation.
<Please be aware of the clams high lighting requirements.>
I have been using distilled or bottled drinking water, but
I found out where to buy bottled R/O water and have now been using that for everything.  
<Yes, RO is better.>
Specs for my tank are as follows:    
   Ammonia/ Nitrites = zero
   Nitrates = 5-10 ppm
<prefer 0 ppm>
   Temp 78
   Sg 1.024-1.025    
   pH = 8.2-8.3
   Calcium = 400-500   
Coral: green star polyps, yellow polyps, pulsing xenia, green mushrooms and frogspawn (I'm also hoping to add a bubble coral and a torch coral to round out the collection) - all doing great.
<I don't think I would add a bubble or a torch.  Too much allelopathic potential here.>
Cleaner Crew:  8 astrea snails, 4 Nassarius snails, 2 blue leg hermits, 1 electric blue hermit.
<OK>
Inverts: 1 fire shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp and 1 crocea clam (all doing great, and both shrimp have already molted a few times).
<You've only had the tank 2.5 months correct?>
   I initially stocked the tank with a hi-fin red banded goby and a wild caught percula clown (who jumped into the filter system and died after a couple of days).  
<I'm sorry for your loss.>
I immediately replaced the clown with a golden damsel. After a couple of weeks, I added a six-line wrasse (who got along great with the damsel and goby).  Three weeks later, I added a tank raised percula clown.  The wrasse was fine with him, but damsel kept the little guy isolated in one corner of the tank (and also kept biting the goby's high fin off) so about two weeks later, I netted the damsel (after taking practically all the rock out of the tank) and took it back to the LFS and exchanged it for a royal Gramma - this is where my luck turned.
<Luck!?!?>
Unfortunately, the wrasse immediately started picking on the Gramma, which stayed in one corner of the tank.  Despite the behavioral issues, the four fish all seemed healthy until about two weeks later when I noticed the clown swimming near the bottom of the tank. When I checked him the next morning...on Thanksgiving...he was very disoriented and died before I could get him out of the tank.
<Again, I'm sorry for your loss.>
(I now suspect Ich, but I wasn't sure at the time).  The LFS was having a big sale on 11/24, so I got another tank raised percula clown and added him to the tank.  The wrasse wasn't fond of him either and so the clown joined the Gramma in his corner of the tank.  Since I wanted to eventually have a total of five fish and my choices for the last fish were a longnose hawkfish or a flame angel, on 11/26 (in hopes of getting the wrasse to stop picking on the clown and Gramma) I bought a flame angel.  
<Adding more fish usually makes the problem worse, not better.>
The Gramma was so frightened by the mere presence of the angel (who was completely non-aggressive toward the other fish), he hid in a small crevasse and only came out to grab a few bites to eat during feeding time.  After about four days, the flame angel started hanging out at the bottom of the tank and was loosing his color a bit.  By the next morning, he was at the top of the tank, very pale and having trouble breathing.  I quickly got a quarantine tank set up (I know...I should have had one
sooner) and gave him a fresh water dip, but it was too late.  
<Yes, QT should have been the first step.  And again I'm sorry for your loss.>
The next morning the clown met with the same fate, and I found the Gramma dead in the filter system that night (even though I have a plastic barrier to make it harder for them to jump the tank).
<So many losses!>
  All that was left was the wrasse and the goby, but a week later I saw the fire shrimp with the half eaten remains of the goby (who seemed fine earlier that morning).
<Wow! That's quite a lot of losses!  I'm sorry.>
   OK, my questions are:
1. Is my ultimate goal of a wrasse, Gramma, clown, goby, and longnose hawkfish or flame angel OK for this system?  
<No!  Plus the hawkfish may well snack on your shrimp.>
The BioCube manual suggested a 5-8 fish limit.
<Way overcrowded!>
If not, can I substitute a smaller fish for the angel/hawkfish? Any suggestions?  
<Yes.  Stop.  Do not pass go.  Start reading.  Read more.  Then read even more.  Employ proper QT procedure.  Be patient.  There is much to learn.  This tank can not be a happy home for the number of fish you are trying to put in it.  It causes too much stress.  When you have one fish hiding in a corner, that is one fish too many in the tank.>    
2. The wrasse is still doing fine (very active, good color, eats like a piggy), so I'm not sure why the other fish died (marine ich/velvet may have gotten the two clowns and the angel...but I'm not exactly sure what ich looks like).  
<The root cause was most likely environmental stress.  Ich may have been a factor also.  But you need to read.  Learn what Ich looks like, how to avoid it, what to do if you get it ...  Here's a good starting place as far as Ich goes:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm and here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm>
I do weekly 10% water changes but I've had some problems lately with high phosphate levels (which I took care of with extra water changes and some Phos-Buster Pro) and an outbreak of cyanoBACTERIA, which I've read on this site can be toxic.  I've also been battling an occasional microbubble problem.  Could any of these have contributed to the fish death?  
<Unlikely.  I suspect overcrowding was the primary cause of your problems.>
Are toxins from the coral also something I need to worry about?
<Yes allelopathy can be an issue among your corals, but unlikely related to your loss of livestock.>
3. I suspected overfeeding contributed to the phosphate/Cyano levels, so I've cut back.  
<Good.>
Is it possible/likely that the coral banded shrimp got hungry and killed the goby?
<Unlikely.>
4. I know the skimmer will help control excess nutrient levels but I'm not sure where to set it up.  Are the bioballs necessary/helpful (given all the live rock and sand) or would it be better to get rid of them and put the skimmer in the chamber reserved for the bioballs?  
<The latter would be most appropriate.>
I know this is a long message, but I'm a bit frustrated right now.
<Understandably so.>
Anyway thanks in advance, your website is great!
<You are welcome and thank you for your kind words.>
<Please consider adding "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner to your holiday list.  It will serve you well.>
Linda

Re: Stocking and filtration in a 29g BioCube  12/13/06
Hello Mich!
<Hi there Linda!>
   Thanks for your quick response!  
<You are most welcome!>
To answer your question...I do have a brother in Mechanicsburg, PA, but the name "Czyzyk" is like "Smith" in Poland (or so I'm told) and PA has some rather large immigrant communities, so I wouldn't be surprised if there were others out there.
<Yes, strong ethnic identities are maintained for generations in many areas of PA.  I bet a lot of people wish it was "Smith" if they've never heard "Czyzyk" pronounced!  Looks harder than it is!>
And you'll be happy to know that "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner was already on my holiday list (I have the one he co-wrote on Marine Invertebrates which I really like and has lots of good info).
<Yes, Reef Invertebrates is an excellent and beautiful book.  However, it is my opinion that everyone who owns a saltwater tank should also own a copy of "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist".  It is the best overall instruction handbook on keeping a saltwater tank.  It is a "must have" for beginners and an essential reference for those with years of experience.  If you only buy one book, "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is the one to purchase.>  
I've done quite a bit of reading over the last few months
and I know I still have lots to learn, but it's hard to figure out
what's best with all the different opinions out there.
<Yes, as time and technology march on, we all must continue to learn.>
Everything in the tank is still doing fine.
<Good.>
The clam and the coral seem to be thriving (and growing) and the Wrasse is enjoying the run of the tank.  The
shrimp and cleaner crew are all very active (and yes, the CBS molted 2x and the fire shrimp molted 3-4x in just 2.5 months in the tank).  
<Seems like a lot of molting, are you supplementing with iodine? If you are I would cut back.>
I hope you don't mind, but I have a few follow up questions:
<Nope, shoot.>
   Fish selection: I got the Wrasse because I read that it was a good choice for a beginner reef tank, but I've also read on your site that they can have an aggressive streak.
<Yep.>
Mine got along fine with the damsel and goby that were in the tank when he arrived, but when I got rid of the damsel and added the clown and Gramma, he seemed to pick on them.
<Yep, The damsel and goby established their territory before the wrasse was introduced.  The wrasse was the new kid on the block.  So no problems.  However, now the wrasse has established it's territory and now these new fish are invading the space, thus problems.  Order of introduction becomes very important when planning tank inhabitants.>  
I'd like to have at total of 4-5 fish depending on size, and with the other fish dying, the Wrasse is now Fish #1. Given my interest in the following, which of these do you think would work best and in which order/how many at a time do you recommend adding them to the tank to minimize chances of the Wrasse picking on them:
   Sixline Wrasse <Max length 3 inches>
   Percula Clown <3 inches>
   Hi-Fin Red Banded Goby <2 inches>, Yellow Watchman Goby <3 inches>, Firefish <3 - 3.5 inches>
   Royal Gramma <3 inches>, Black Cap Basslet <4 inches>
   Blue/Green Chromis <4.5 - 5 inches>
   Flame Angel <4 inches>
   Longnose Hawkfish <5 inches> (conflicting info on hawkfish in general vs. the longnose as a danger to shrimp on your site, plus they're cool fish). Also, is a Flame Angle totally out of the question in a 29g BioCube with the Wrasse and one or two other small fish (can you tell I really want one)? And are there any other smaller fish not on my list that you recommend for this mix?
<You can not successfully keep all these fish in a 30 gallon tank long term.  It's just too much fish and not enough space.  If you really want a Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula), you can have a Flame, but it should be the last fish introduced.  They can be bullies and about half of all flames will eat some of your corals.      So if you plan on having a flame and you already have the six-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) that's a substantial fish load for a 30 gallon tank.  I think this rules out all the other fish on your list with the possible exception of a shrimp goby (Stonogobiops sp.).>
   Coral selection: I've heard it's OK to mix hard and soft coral as long as you do weekly water changes and maintain good water quality, and others say it's best not to.  
<Depends on what your goals are.>  
Given that I have mainly soft coral: green star polyps, yellow polyps, pulsing xenia, green mushrooms (the yellow polyps and xenia were started from frags and have really taken off), and one LPS: frogspawn, if I add a bubble or torch coral, where is the
allelopathic potential coming from?  
<Chemical warfare between the LPS corals.  The frogspawn will release toxins to prevent other corals from invading it's space.>
I haven't been able to figure out why mixing the same kind of coral is ok while putting hard and soft together can be a problem...is it because soft coral are less sensitive to toxins put out by other soft coral and vice verse?  
<Yes, As a very loose generality soft corals tend to be more toxic and be tend to tolerate the toxicity of others better.>
Would the bubble coral be the "victim" or the "aggressor" in this mix?  
<Both to a degree.>
I've read the mushrooms have toxins that can affect LPS, is that correct?  
<Yes>
My frogspawn is doing great right now but will it have problems long term if it is in the same tank as the mushrooms?
<Should survive, but may not flourish.>
They are all spaced several inches apart right now and I have one or two other spaces for a nice specimen. Do you have any suggestions, given I like specimens with large or swaying polyps?  
<Maybe a gorgonian.>
Thanks again!
<You are welcome, keep reading.  -Mich>
Linda

24G Nano Refugium  9/9/06
Hi Guys,
<Mixed sexes here...>
I will like to create  a refugium on the center compartment at the back of my 24 Gallon Nano.
<Good>
Option 1: Remove filter and move carbon bag to the first compartment, add a couple of pieces of life rock. No light, no sand, no Chaetomorpha.
hopefully this will feed some pods into the main tank...
<Hopefully>
Option 2: same as option 1 + add a small arm light back there, add rock and Chaetomorpha.
<I would go this route>
Option 2A: same as option 2 but add sand....
this option is where I don't know what to do....
if I add sand back there it might get into the sponge filters of the first compartment, not sure if this is a problem. should I put it in and open container....
<I'd skip the sand here>
are any of the above good ideas...please advice.
attached is a picture of my creatures...
thanks a lot!
Roberto
<Mmm, have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

29 Gallon Reef Filtration  - 09/07/06
Hello crew.  Quick question.  I currently have a 29 gallon reef system with a Fluval 404. I have a lot of Live rock probably 30 pounds. Sand in the tank is super fine sugar sand (which was sand from my other tank which was fish only) mixed with new live sand  (bought when I set this tank up about a month ago).  The sand bed is about 2-3 inches deep.
In the chambers I am using carbon in the bottom 2, middle tray is the bio rings, and the top tray is nitrate sponge.  I do weekly water changes of 15 to 25% H2O.  My nitrates are still high, around 20 to 30 PPM.  I feed every other day (Mysis shrimp) about 1/3 of a frozen cube soaked in vitamin supplement and a garlic supplement to a very small True Percula and a Firefish.  The two anemones
<Tank too small for these guys, especially two.>
get fed twice a week with 2-3 pieces of krill each. Am I over feeding?
<Nope.>
I have tried everything in my power to get the nitrates lower.  I clean the filter once a week, cleaning the filter sponges and gently cleaning the carbon bags and bio blocks with distilled water.  
If there isn't much I can do, should I switch to a sump or a refugium?
<I'd get a protein skimmer.  This will help reduce nitrates in your system.  The Red Sea Prizm Pro is a decent skimmer that will work well on your 29.>
How do I connect a sump or refugium to my tank without having to drill holes?
<Buy a hang on unit such as Ecosystem's.>
The Fluval worked great when I had my other tank with FOWLR.  With the reef for some reason, I cant seem to get these stupid nitrates down.
<Would also use Chemi-Pure rather than carbon, much more effective.>
The rest of the readings are zero with great alk, calcium, and iodine readings.  I hope maybe you can shine some light here cause I love this tank and I love the friends that call this tank home.  I will do what ever I need to make sure they live a happy and healthy life.  
<Good to hear, try doing the above.  You seem to be doing everything else right, except putting anemones in a small tank with non-anemone safe fish such as the Firefish.  James (Salty Dog)>   
  Josh

DIY filter for Small Reef, Not reading or finding   8/6/06
Hello! First of all, I read over your forum all the time, and it's EXTREMELY helpful. However, it seems no one has been as lost as me on doing a DIY sump/filter system.
<We'll see...>
I am getting a new 29 gallon aquarium as an upgrade from my current reef tank. I plan to use a spare 10 gallon tank to make the sump/filter out of. Thus far, I have got all the water transfer path figured out, but am having a little trouble figuring out how to get the water flowing.
<?>
I *think* you use a powerhead?
<Might be able to...>
I honestly have no clue. Then for the return flow, I am looking at a pond pump that pumps 160 GPH. Will this be powerful enough to pump the water back into the tank?
<Mmm, would need to know the rated flow of this pump at the given head (difference in water levels...)>
ALSO. I am a little confused because some people have told me just to make a refugium, but I don't understand how that aids in filtration?
<These are all gone over... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the fourth "block" of blue/highlighted files... on Refugiums... Rationale, Pumps...>
My filtering plans are to make a 3 stage "flow-over". The first compartment will be filter floss, then carbon, then bioballs. It will look like a triple waterfall, with water flowing over dividers in the tank to the next compartment. And lastly, how do I successfully get the intake and return flows to match up without having to do a trial and error type deal and spill water all over my living room floor? Thanks SO much for you help!
<And Design... Circulation. BobF>

Cycling issue with 10 gallon SW tank  7/15/06
Bonjour!
First of all, let me thank you in advance for spending your time on this!! It has been of great help reading the forums. I am a beginner aquarist, started out with a 10 gallon aquarium, no knowledge (ouch!), incandescent lighting (ouch!!), two damsel fish, one of which died, and a piece of live rock. I started reading books, gathering information, and I decided to start anew, putting the leftover damsel (blue devil), the (dead) live rock, and the coral banded shrimp that I had recently bought, in an empty tank. They are now thriving. Anyway, so I added something like (if I remember correctly) 22 pounds of live sand, forming about a 2-3 inch layer, and so far, 7 pounds of live rock. I've had it like this for 14 days now, with no lighting (I am ordering the orbit 20" from Current Usa with Dual Daylight (10,000K & 6700K), Dual Actinic (460nm & 420nm) and Lunar Lights), and a canister filter with carbon/floss, plugged in since day two of adding LR/LS. I have noticed that on the live rock Peyssonnelia spp. (chestnut algae) has been appearing and thriving on the underside, which I read is pretty common.
<Yes>
I have done water testing every day; the first couple of days with a slight nitrite reading 0.2 mg/l and no nitrate reading and no ammonia. For the past couple of days I've had no ammonia, no nitrite, and a slight nitrate reading of about 10 mg/l (those colours can be hard to read!) PH has been at 8.2 the whole time. There has been no algae growth,
<No light/ing...>
so I was wondering... has my tank matured yet or no?
<I would give it another week...>
Normally one could tell through the algae cycle, but mine seems to have none.
<You will with the installation of the lights>
Is it too soon to tell? Do I have to wait longer, if so any guesstimations ( I know that it can be between 3 days to 100!)? Also will I need a protein skimmer, or any other equipment for this setup?
<I definitely would have a skimmer... and be looking into changing out the canister... You'll soon tire of the attention it will require to stay clean...>
( I will just be adding the damsel, the coral banded shrimp, and after a while, a clown anemonefish.) I read about the protein skimmer debate but it is still unclear to me whether of not to get one, some say it is essential, and others, that a water change weekly is only necessary.
<Both are correct. Especially smaller systems can be run (with careful feeding, good maintenance otherwise) w/o a skimmer... but I would...>
Thank you so much in advance for considering my long e-mail and my (stupid) questions! I am just a beginner very worried not to let living creatures die again because of my inexperience.
Best regards,
Paula Groffen
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Filtration help 5/3/06
Hello,
<Greetings>
I will start by saying your web site is great!  Now here is my problem. I have a 29Gallon tall reef tank. I currently have 48 pounds of live rock, an open brain, a bubble, a few different colors of striped mushrooms, a red mushroom, zoos, and some nice Ricordea mushrooms. I am using a Skilter 250 mainly for protein skimming and I built a wet/dry out of a ten gallon tank I had laying around. At first this tank only had fish but I couldn't resist starting a reef tank.
<Coral do seem to be addictive>
Now I only have four fish in it.
<The limit of a 29 in my opinion, perhaps even a bit overstocked>
Two were only for the cycle but I will be returning them to the pet store for something else. Probably one new fish.
<Make sure it stays small, probably should be the last fish in a tank this size with corals>
My question is should I remove the bio balls slowly and just run my Skilter? I know it's recommended to get rid of the bio-balls but I am worried that my system will crash. Is the live rock amount good enough to act as the filtration? I know this is called the Berlin method but is it good for a reef tank? I only heard of that system being used in a FOWLR tank. Its seems at times my tanks quality changes fast and often.
<Well you have a good amount of LR in the tank so I think that you should get plenty of bio-filtration from it.  However the Skilter has a dubious reputation at best, and I would be inclined to leave the bio-balls and just make sure to clean the wet/dry often (weekly) to help compensate for the Skilters usual lack of production.  If possible I would encourage you to upgrade to a more advanced skimmer, then you could get rid of the bio-balls and end up with more stable water conditions>
Thanks for the help. <Anytime>
Shane Smith
<Chris>

New Tank, Old Questions - Filtration For Smallish Marine Systems - 04/22/2006
Hello majorly informative people!    
<Hello!  And thanks for the kind words!>
I just need a few very straight answers
<I'm gonna break it to yah now.  There are NO straight answers in this hobby....  NONE.>
for the very best filtration system I can have for two small, saltwater tanks (everything won on eBay!):    
#1. I have a 30 gal acrylic saltwater tank (FOWLR) running 4 months now with the following:  Emperor 280, SeaClone 100 protein skimmer (works great for me), along with the usual heater, etc.  I have just added 17 lbs. of live rock to the 10 lbs. I had in the tank.  (I know, I know...but, I am learning.)   I have 3" of live sand as substrate.  
<Mm, in my opinion/experience, I'd go less than an inch or more than four.>
There are 2 sm. damsels, 2 clown fish, 1 scooter blenny.  
<The scooter, a dragonet, will not survive in a 30g tank, I fear....  This is an animal that feeds upon primarily or only living things that develop in your tank as it matures....  Typically, a 100g tank with roughly 100lbs of live rock is recommended (rather, required) for sustaining their feeding habits, and thus, their lives.>
(cannot seem to keep invertebrates)  
<Better explore why, and soon....>
(Nitrates just shot way up...have only been topping off the water.  Started changing some water.)  
<Good.>
Getting to the point -  I don't mind starting over with a better filtration system to get the best.  Suggestion?  
<Many.  Best suggestion is to start reading and develop your own preferences.  Start here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm .>
#2.  I also have a 46 gal. bowfront freshwater aquarium that I want to convert over to saltwater.  I have a Marineland Penguin 350 on it.  
<I, personally, would pull out the BioWheel and media and just use this as a circulation device and a place to add chemical filtrants when/if necessary.>
This tank has lots of room for anything and everything I want to add to it for terrific filtration.  (but again, has no holes drilled in it.)  What is the best filtration system for this tank to become a saltwater?  
<Again, many countless options here.  My own, personal, preference is to use a pound or two per gallon of live rock, 5" or nearabouts of oolitic aragonite sand, a very good skimmer, and frequent water changes.  Other folks have other preferences, and you'll develop your own.>
#3. I want a sump, but my tank has no holes drilled for that purpose.  Is there a wet/dry sump I could still use for my tank?  
<Look into hang-on overflows, or have the tank drilled.>
If not, please tell me what filtration to use.       
<Start reading....  too many options to tell you unequivocally "the best" option for you, your system, your maintenance habits....  You will over time develop a knowledge for what you and your system like and need.>
#4.  A friend has given me a used Eheim 2213 canister filter with all the carbon, stones, etc. inside.  (It has not been in use in over a year.)  Is it worth using on such small tanks such as mine?  
<Can be, if cleaned FREQUENTLY, and used mostly just for mechanical filtration and chemical filtration when/if necessary.  With adequate live rock and sand, you will have no need of biological filter media in the Eheim.>
It would not be able to be used on the 30 gal. due to limited space if it was used in conjunction with the Emperor and skimmer.  Already out of room.  Thank you for your advice...confused, but I'll be okay once I hear from you.   
<Mm, actually, it's not me you need to hear from, but your own self and your own research, to find what is right for you and your prospective system.  You will get there, with patience and research.  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

New Tank, Old Questions - Filtration For Smallish Marine Systems - II - 04/23/2006
Well, now...no simple answers, huh?  Geez!  
<If you want simple answers, you're in the wrong hobby, mate.>
That is tough for a beginner to hear because all we want is something precise and straightforward to start with THEN go with trial and error as we go.   
<.... and that, sadly, is often the formula for folks leaving the hobby....  One must find what works best for oneself; researching the various options available to you and breaking that information down into what is best for you and your system is what will keep you "into" fish.>
Fact of the matter is I have been doing a lot of reading and that is probably the problem...too much advice, too many opinions, then confusion sets in as to what exactly to do.  
<There is perhaps "too much" information floating about, but in time, with reading and patience, you will process this, and the options that are best for you will surface.>
I just want to make sure that my tanks' systems are the best so that IF I were to have problems with fish dying, diseases, etc. that at least I would not have to question whether I have the correct system set up for the size tanks I have and that it must be something else.  
<There is so, SO much more to this....  Tank size is not the only limiting factor, here, but you, your prospective tank inhabitants, your own maintenance habits, even perhaps your own degree of laziness or lack thereof.>
Gotta have something to begin with and it is nice to have a pro's help.
<The best help is from within; to find, for yourself, what you best wish to do.>
I highly appreciate your opinion as to using oolitic aragonite sand, plenty of live rock and a good skimmer and that was all I needed to hear (or read.)  
<Remember, though, that's what works best for ME and MY systems/animals.  You and yours may be different.>
And I will remove the bio wheel and media and just use the Penguin as you suggested.  Another big thank you!  You told me what YOU would do and that's all the new guys want to hear.  
<Mm, often what you *want* to hear isn't what you need....  I'm not telling you what I think you should do with your system, but what I like to do with mine.  Ask another person, and you'll have a different answer.>
Now - Is oolitic aragonite sand the same as the CaribSea Arag Alive Sand?  
<I'm not sure if they do an oolitic AragAlive....  You're looking for the sugar-fine stuff, I think they call it "Aragamax".>
I read on a web site "Guide to Successful Live Sand Substrate" that there is a dry oolitic aragonite sand, along with live oolitic Arag. sand and they seem to use it with Carib Sea Reef sand to provide variance texture to get a different look.  Sounds very creative...a little out of my league unless I could see a pic of it.
<You don't "need" the bagged (or any) live sand, as it will become live as the tank matures with live rock present.  From that point it's just up to your aesthetics.>
Thank you for your help.
<Glad to be of service, but please take away from this the drive to find your own opinions about your own systems.  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

New Tank, Old Questions - Filtration For Smallish Marine Systems - III - 04/23/2006
Thank you Sabrina - don't worry, I have NO intentions of leaving this intriguing hobby.  
<Ah, good.>
Some people (incl. my husband) that know me are saying it's more like an "obsession!"  LOL  My husband will vouch for my determination in being successful in whatever I get involved in at home.  (too bad I don't have that kind of drive at work!  LOL)  And as for lazy, that is something I don't even comprehend!  No such thing as "lazy" in my world.  
<You might want to research more before you copy my habits, then, as I am QUITE lazy when it comes to my tanks....>
I feel I would miss out on too much.  It is more fun NOT to be lazy.  Two years ago, the last of my 3 daughters moved away from home (to CO, as a matter of fact) and that just left me and my husband.  Well, to make a long story short, I started finding other "creatures" to take care of and they happen to have fins instead of legs!  
<Perfect!>
haha  Sure do appreciate your advice.  It really has helped knowing that what I have going is "a good start."  I usually always go with what I feel is best.  As far as the sand is concerned, I've bought all alive sand (unknowingly) and have already started converting my 46 gal. tank to a saltwater with 80 lbs. of the stuff.  I bet I could have saved lots of money on buying just the dry oolitic.  
<Live and learn, eh?  No worries.>
If I go with a deep sand bed, perhaps I could put in some of the dry oolitic sand on top of the live sand.  Take care -
<You too.>
many thanks.  
<Many welcomes, too.>
Linda in GA    
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>