Sump Design/Filter Socks - 03/08/06 Hi WWM Crew: <<Hey there Tom!>> Thank you very much for all the help so far, you've been huge. <<Our pleasure>> I have another question:  I'm just not understanding how best to provide raw water to the sump skimmer, because I also thought I needed (and would rinse at least weekly) a filter sock for incoming sump water to remove as much detritus as possible from our 120G mixed reef system.  Is the sock really needed? <<Opinions vary...but I don't use them on my reef.>> I've attached a top and front view of the new sump I'm planning.  It's as big as can fit under the tank, otherwise I'd have a larger refugium section. <<Nice drawings...very helpful.>> If I were to remove the filter sock, how could I then physically filter the water before it gets to the return pump? <<Mmm, not always necessary, again, in my opinion...but even without the filter sock much will settle out in the baffles and can be vacuumed/siphoned out periodically.>> Could you also review the diagrams and tell me what's good (and not so good)? <<Happy to...  I would move the skimmer to the first chamber and let ALL the raw water from the tank enter here to be processed by the skimmer and overflowing to the refugium in the middle compartment.  This way plankton/epiphytic matter from the refugium doesn't get sucked in to (and wasted by) the skimmer, but rather, has a free ride to your return pump and up to the display tank.>> Thanks, Tom <<Regards, EricR>>

Sump Design/Filter Socks II - 03/09/06
I guess now I have a couple of follow up questions, appreciate your patience.
<<No problem>>
I'm sure inclined to go the route you suggest, without a sock, but I would not have any physical filtration in the system other than the skimmer, is that right?
<<Correct.  Ideally you will have enough flow in your tank to keep detritus in suspension to be utilized by the tank inhabitants.>>
Just curious...about how often should the sump detritus need to be siphoned out of the baffles and skimmer compartment?
<<Depends, maybe 2-3 times a year...but you'll likely find this area densely populated by bristle worms, amphipods, other micro-crustaceans, and may not have to bother with it.>>
Also, with the refugium section in the middle, would the 1000 GPH going through it be too much?
<<Most any refugium methodology will do fine with the flow.>>
Thought of a new question, still related.  Would you say I'm better off going with an external sump return pump (like a GenX Mak4), or a similar capacity internal pump (like a Mag 12 or 18)?  I'd like to get an actual 1000GPH through the 1" SeaSwirl.  A submersible internal pump would allow me to make the sump a few inches longer, but I'd like to avoid the added heat of the submersible Mag.
<<If you were to use an Iwaki or GRI pump I would say go external.  But given the choices listed I would use the Mag-Drive pump.  Noise will be less and the difference in heat transfer negligible.>>
Thanks, in advance!
Tom
<<Always welcome, EricR>>

Combined Sump/Refugium Design - 03/11/06
Good Evening Crew,
<<Morning here>>
I have a follow-up question to a submission posted by another querier (Tom) titled "sump design/filter socks" from the WWM daily FAQs of 03/08/06.  The submitter of this initial query provided very nice drawings of a proposed refugium/sump design (side and top views).  Distinguished WWM responder, Eric R., provided an answer that suggested switching the position of the refugium & sump.  Eric's answer is perfectly clear/understood.  However, seeing the submitted drawings mentioned above, reading Eric's response and having read some of Mr. Fenner's (and other Crew member's) comments about sump/fuge design has me wondering about another element of sump/fuge layout.
<<Ah yes, I recall the exchange(s) well...EricR here...again.>>
I believe in one of Mr. Fenner's archived answers on the topic, he indicated that sump/fuge design might be optimized by incorporating some ability to implement carbon and/or Poly-Filter when/if necessary.
<<No might/when/if about it in my opinion <G>.  Virtually any/every system would/will benefit from the addition of these media.>>
I am wondering, referring to the design drawings mentioned above, where in this design would one place such (carbon/Poly-Filter) bags/pads, etc?
<<Anywhere along the filter flow-path.  In the sump mentioned, the media could be placed in amongst the baffles.  Some manufactured sumps incorporate a dedicated "media chamber" for this purpose.>>
Would one envelope the output pipe from the skimmer in a carbon-filled or Poly-Filter type bag?
<<Could, but I wouldn't.  Aside from being a pain to employ, it would likely wreak havoc with your drain's output/flow.>>
Or, would it be better to direct the skimmer output to a higher-level, drip-tray type device or compartment (similar to Marineland's filter-drawer-style sump) wherein carbon material and/or Poly-Filter pads are placed in "drizzle path" to achieve necessary chemical filtering if/as necessary?
<<Mmm...me thinks it would just be easier to place the media somewhere along the filter flow-path...>>
In addition, acknowledging the fact that there are greatly varied opinions in the hobby on this subject, my reading of the FAQs re sump/fuge design has led me to believe that "parallel" flow systems here (i.e. a specifically determined volume & turnover-rate-based % of tank output going separately but concurrently to both sump and fuge, with the two coming together again at the return) are better than a "series" method of sump-into-fuge-to-return design?
<<I absolutely agree!  Employing a separate sump and refugium is always better IMO/E.>>
If one is running, for example, an Aqua-C EV-240 using a Mag 1200, wouldn't the output of that into your average fuge cause total destruction in an average setup unless (even if) manifolded?
<<Mmm, no...many refugium methodologies benefit from high flow rates.  I have a 55 gallon vegetable refugium (6" sugar-fine DSB w/Chaetomorpha algae) with a flow through of more than 1,000 gph.  I'm not saying it has to be that high (though some authors might disagree), but it does tolerate the flow well and could easily stand more.  The high flow rate also assists with getting planktonic/epiphytic matter out of the refugium and in to the display tank.>>
It would seem much more logical to divert tank output to the sump and fuge compartments separately and have skimmer output going directly to main return, bypassing fuge.
<<More logical to have separate vessels/inputs/outputs, yes...though for "combined" vessels, focus should be on having the 'fuge output bypass the skimmer chamber else much of the benefit re (IMO) is wasted.>>
This is what I am planning in my design, anyway....am I mistaken?  
<<As long as you aren't flowing from your refugium to your skimmer I think you are on track.>>
Part of the reason I am trying to design/build my own sump and fuge is because I haven't yet found any manufacturers that produce (at least what I can tell is) a "parallel" system.
<<Agreed>>
I am wondering why truly parallel-style systems aren't more widely commercially available?.
<<Good question, would appeal to me...perhaps folks/manufacturers are just "comfortable with/complacent about" current design.  Perhaps you could use your design to spark a change!>>
Or, are they, and I've just not looked in the right places?  
<<Don't think so.>>
Highly regarded (apparently) sump/fuge systems such as those offered by Ecosystems (those that I've seen) seem to be of a "series" nature...unless I don't fully understand their design/functional flow?
<<My experiences match yours.  Commonly available sump/refugium systems employ designs where water flows through a "series" of chambers from one end to the other.  I envision a parallel system employing a lengthwise center panel/plate allowing the formation of two longitudinal chambers, with both terminating at a single pump chamber.  As you stated each chamber could be fed individually, with flow tailored to suit, and each side customized /compartmentalized for its intended purpose.>>
Thank you very much for your time/advice here.
Best Regards,
Brian
<<Cheers, EricR>>

Sump Design/Filter Socks II  - 3/16/2006
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Tom!>>
I see the diagrams I included with my recent "Sump Design/Filter Socks - 03/08/06" inquiry resulted in more discussion on the topic, so I wanted to make sure the other WWM reader (Brian) knew about www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html. Some of Melev's sump designs looked similar to what I needed, plus there are several other examples that might help Brian with the "parallel" sump/refugium design.
<<Thank you for this.>>
Regarding placement of the skimmer in the center section, I thought very little of the refugium output would end up back in the skimmer because of the way the EV180 skimmer body will partition the center section.  On one side of the EV180, around 800-900 GPH will be coming into the skimmer pump area via the overflow, and the EV180 can only process around half that flow. So this "excess" flow into the skimmer pump area should keep most of the skimmer and refugium output, which is on the other side of the EV180, from getting back into the skimmer pump...the bulk of the skimmer and refugium output should just flow into the baffles.  At least that's the theory...
<<Mmm, I see your point...likely will be fine then.>>
These drawings were done in a hurry and are missing lots of details.  I'll be putting media bag(s) in the baffle area, and redundant float switches, for auto top-off, in the return pump area.  The divider between the refugium and skimmer section will be opaque, black acrylic to keep the algae growth in the refugium. One minor difference from some other refugium designs I've seen will be that the refugium output will not simply flow over a wall into the return area, rather it will come from near the bottom of the refugium where I figured most of the 'pods like to hang out.
<<Indeed they do.  And once the mysids start breeding (feed them well...are cannibalistic) you will see little "clouds" of tiny young swirling just above the substrate.>>
The main goals with this sump design are (1) a decent size refugium and (2) high, 1000+ GPH, bubble-free flow to a SeaSwirl return...but it all has to fit in a very limited space with a pre-determined overflow location.
<<A common tale.>>
Lots of other equipment (Ca reactor, CO2 bottle, freshwater reservoir, PhosBan reactor, closed-loop pump, chiller pump, power strips, timers, etc) needs to fit in the same cabinet, and I'll be using every square inch of space.
<<A very common tale <grin>.>>
One thing I've learned in my short time as a reef keeper is that it's the opportunity for individual planning, design, and methods that help make this hobby interesting.
<<Yes!  To bad so many overlook these steps.>>
Another thing I've learned is to read, and get advice from WWM...please let me know if I'm headed the right direction.
<<Keep reading/questioning/learning my friend.>>
Just to confirm your earlier answer to the sump return pump selection, would a 110 watt, external GenX Mak4 really add about as much heat to the water as a 145 watt, submersible Mag18?
<<Actually, I had a Mag12 in mind when I made that comment...but even so, I don't think you will find the temperature transfer from the Mag18 to be a problem, no.>>
I've been using a Mak4 for a closed loop, and it sure seems like the bulk of the heat is produced & dissipated away from the wet end of the pump.
<<Agreed...but I also think the GenX pump runs hotter than the Mag-Drive.  I think you will do fine whichever method you choose.  If heat is going to be an issue for you I really doubt which of these pumps you use will be a deciding factor.  Mounting fans (I use 4" 12v computer fans run on inexpensive outdoor lighting transformers) to blow across your tank AND your sump/refugium will go a long way towards mitigating any "overheating" issues.>>
As always, a big thanks,
Tom
<<And as always, very welcome.  Regards, EricR>>

Cold water system   03/07/06
Hello again,
Quick question resulting from a change in setup plans -- instead of installing a 20 gal fuge & 20 gal sump within the confines of the stand beneath the main 125 display tank, I have plumbed the system into the basement.  By doing this I have created more space for myself and have placed the fuge/sump in a much cooler place.
<I wish we had these basements in S. Cal.!>
I am running a chiller (1/3 hp) to maintain a constant water temp of 60-65 F (also located in the basement).  Here's the dilemma:  I have already drilled and put effort into setting up the (2) 20 gal tanks (for the in stand setup). Now that I am in the basement I have much more room for a larger fuge and sump.  My question is this:  should I go with the existing setup, resulting in 40 gallons total (fuge/sump) plus inline chiller, or, increase the size of the fuge/sump to increase total volume of filtration?  'Bigger is better'
<Is...>
in most cases I understand, but in my case I need to keep the water at constant low temperature.  by adding more water, I am increasing the demand on the chiller.  I will have live sand, live rock and algae in both the refugium, as well as, the display tank itself.  Will this be enough?
<Likely so>
(also, I failed to mention that I have installed an Aqua C 180 skimmer in the 20 gal sump).  Just wanted to make sure the volume is adequate as I have been amazed at some of the volumes I have seen for other tank setups (i.e..- 150 gallon display supported by 125 gallon refugium & 125 gal sump.).  Please advise and thank you for your help.
Matt
<I would "go with what you have" for now... the transit volume (water in play/circulation) is a chief concern... only experience will show you how much of your forty gallons will be left "unused" to accommodate this should power/pump fail. Bob Fenner>

Sump question    3/2/06
  Hello wonderful WWM Crew for it has been six months since my last question, <Far too long I should think! Tim answering your question today.>
  Thank all of you so much for the help on my SPS tank, it is everything I had hoped it to be. <Am very happy to hear!> I want to start up a second tank, a FOWLR. <Great idea!> Everything I know (albeit not that much) about filtration is for reef tanks, are FOWLR the same? <Any kind of FO system, whether with or without live rock will definitely benefit from having the same filtration system as a reef system, though in most instances you will find that a FO system is far less demanding in terms of water quality (though obviously this should still be as high as possible).> Someone suggested having two overflows <I would agree with this though more in terms of skimming area and to minimize the risks associated with one of the overflows becoming blocked.>, one that feeds an in sump skimmer, the other feeding a wet/dry with filter floss <If you are using a sump then I would not recommend using filter floss except where absolutely necessary as this will yield a potential nitrate problem; this is true particularly with aggressive fish that tend to be messy eaters. Ensure any floss that you do use is cleaned on a weekly basis.> and carbon that then goes into a sump with mangroves, then into a sump with mud, then into a sump with algae and then into a sump with live rock <To my knowledge should be able to combine all these into a single compartment - that is to say, have the mud together with some Chaetomorpha and a couple of chunks of live rock within a single compartment in your sump. Also if you are using macro algae such as Chaetomorpha then there really is no need to use mangroves (which are arguably slow at absorbing nutrients).> and the skimmer then back to the tank. Should I also have a refugium? <Your sump, as you outline it above already contains a refugium - namely the compartment with your algae, live rock and mud. A refugium is simply a part of the aquarium providing 'refuge' from predators, allowing smaller organisms such as amphipods and copepods to thrive.> I have room for all of these under my tank if each could be a 10 gallon tank. If this is perfect for an aggressive tank is the order of sumps correct? <I think your lighting of the sump would also be simplified through combination of these compartments.>
  Thank you for the continued help,
  Sebastian

Re: sump question   3/3/06
Thank you Tim for such a prompt response, <I try my best...>
     If I understand you correctly; having two overflows, one feeding an in sump  skimmer (haven't purchased the skimmer yet, was thinking a LifeReef <I have no experience with this make, sorry.>. Is a stand  alone skimmer better to keep water temp down as I plan to have MH's <Your selection of skimmer should not have any significant effect on the water temperature in your system.> ( the MH's  are for the pretty shimmer effect on the sand... gotta have that) <I completely agree - plus the live rock will benefit from it as well.>) and the  other overflow go straight into a sump with mud, live rock and macro algae. No  wet/dry as a prefilter to the sump? <I would not consider it necessary, no. Instead use bioballs or similar media in the first compartment of your sump - this will have the same effect as a wet/dry and is easier to keep clean.> Last question... Is there a formula to  calculate what size sump (I know bigger is better but only so much space under the  tank.... I'm a renter, no holes in the wall yet) I will need for a 140  gallon. <As you said yourself, the bigger the better. Use as much space under your tank as you can whilst keeping things practical - consider that you may need space for other equipment in the future, and remember to leave enough headroom for a lighting fixture to illuminate your refugium.>
     Thanks again and tell everyone there including your self that I believe this  service is advancing the hobby by leaps and bounds. <Thank you very much!> It would take generations  of book publishing to get out the information WWM provides, and yet with most  books the technology and ideology has already surpassed it by the time they hit the store shelves <Except for Bobs brilliant books of course! :o) >.

Sumps ... pumps and Ferris wheels.  2/10/06
Dear Bob,
I have a 20 gallon mud sump setup with 2 mangrove pods and Caulerpa algae growing in it. I have read that leaving the light on for 24/7 is beneficial for
oxygen in the water and it can potentially stop certain bacteria from releasing  the wastes that create the yellowing of some water. <Have read myself.>
Anyways my problem is that I have red algae growing on my sump  walls. Can I add turbo snails or some kind of snails to the sump in order to  control
it? <If they will eat red algae.  May have problems with snails getting into intake of pump unless protected.>
I have a 700 gallon per hour cycle on my 55 gallon tank. I mention this because I read on your site that increased  flow should cut back on the red  algae. <Are we talking Cyano here or algae?> Can I add snails to the sump or what other ways are there to cut down on  the red algae. <Give the mud system a chance to develop, should control this algae.>
My second question I'm sure you get a lot. I have a gravity vacuum overflow box. My problem comes into play when the power goes out and the water drains
into  the sump. When the suction is broken and the power comes back my house will look  like the great flood. Is there anything to stop a return pump from
pumping when  the power is returned. I am considering wiring a float switch
backwards so if  the water raises it cuts off the pump, <How do you start the pump then?  Waters not going to go down till the pump starts.  Would have to force the float switch down.  I don't like that idea.>  but is there a better way? <Sounds to me like your sump isn't large enough for the tank.  A 55 gallon tank with a flow rate of 700 gph is going to require at least a 12 gallon sump.  What's yours?>
Thanks <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jason

Re: Overflow Configuration - 01/24/06
Please let me explain how my sump has been set up.
<<Alright>>
The sump consists of 3 compartments.  The first is where the water enters from the overflow consists of substrate on the bottom, looks like shells in appearance, then plastic balls.  Then white filter wool.
<<Cleaned/replaced weekly (or more often as needed) I hope.>>
The water exits through slots at the bottom and enters the second chamber, this is where the protein skimmer is situated.  The water then flows over a glass divider and is pumped back into the display tank.
<<If this is working for you that's fine, but my preference would be to remove the filter media (add a filter sock to the sump return if you wish to trap/remove particulates), and place the skimmer in the "first" chamber to process "raw" tank water.  The second chamber could then be used to hold chemical media (carbon/Chemi-Pure/Poly-Filter), or utilized as a refugium.  EricR>>
Regards,
Alan

Sump Brands, Refugium VS Wet-Dry
Hi, great info on site!
<Hello Chris, thanks for the kind words.>
     My question deals with filtration for a 110 gallon predator tank that will have a sufficient bioload on it.
<Okay.>
  I have been considering a wet dry filter because of their nitrifying capabilities, but since I need sump space for my aqua-c EV 180 protein skimmer, I am unsure whether the bio wheel tidepool 2 is better than bio ball filters, or if the bio balls are better.  
<They are about equal in my opinion both are plastic media which play as a breeding ground for nitrifying bacteria, great at breaking down ammonia and nitrate, not so great with nitrate.>
Can you recommend a sump?  
<Check out the sumps made by CPR aquatics and MyReefCreations.>
Also your site does not recommend wet/dries because refugiums are superior, but is this true for heavy bio load fish only tanks?
<Yes in my opinion the benefits of a fishless/macroalgae refugium easily outweigh that of a wet-dry.>
would this be the way to go rather than a wet dry for a heavy bio load?
<If you have room you could include both, have the refugium come after the wet-dry...though yes in my opinion if I have to choose either or I would definitely choose the refugium.>
thanks a lot!
Chris
<Welcome, Adam J.>

Sumps and Invertebrates  12/12/05
Hi <Hello Will>
I have a question to ask regarding sumps.  I have a 23 gallon reef tank that has been setup for about a year.  I had a Skilter 250 on it and an Aqua C skimmer, but the Skilter broke, and my Aqua c doesn't produce anything, <Skimmers must be cleaned weekly to be efficient.  Check out your manual.> so my filtration is lacking.  I was wondering if a sump would help my situation.  I was thinking a 20 gallon Rubbermaid container, with an overflow box (since my tank isn't drilled) for a sump.  Would this do anything to help even if it was not a refugium? <Yes, by increasing the total amount of water in the system.> Should I put live rock in it or is that not necessary? <You can.  It will increase the carrying capacity.> If I did put live rock in it should it just go in the bottom or should it be separated from the
pump. <It can be in the sump.> I'm having trouble finding a good DIY sump/refugium direction,
any ideas? <Here is a link to FAQ's on that subject.  Read what others have done.> My display tank has about 25 lbs of live rock and 40 lbs of live sand.  If I did have the 20 gallon sump with an overflow box that
can handle 600 gph, how many gph should my return pump be if the sump is 3-4ft below the display tank? <I'd go with a 400gph pump.> I also had a question about invertebrates.  I have a problem with micro hair algae, but it only grows on the sand. Is there a type of invertebrates that will help? My snails don't seem to go on the sand, and my crabs don't eat it.  I was looking at urchins, and was wondering if a black long spine urchin  (Diadema setosum) would help.  I read that
they were venomous and was wondering if they would poke and hurt my
corals. <I'd probably go with a lawnmower blenny and avoid the urchins for the reason you stated.>
My last question is about clams.  I read that they help filter the water
to keep it clean. <They do remove some nitrate from the water  but don't act as a filter.  Clams are photosynthetic (at least the ones we keep in our reef tanks) and produce most of their own food.>  Would this help my tank?  I have a 96 watt PC light
that is 50/50, is this enough for any clams? <Not nearly enough light.>
Sorry for asking so many questions.
Any advice is appreciated. <You're welcome, James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
Will

Tank Setup/FAQs, Art, and Science - 12/04/05
I am a newbie who has been reading your site and everything else can find.
<<A good way to start.>>
My question is for a new FOWLR setup. I plan on using about 60lbs of live rock (should I use more?)
<<Probably plenty...for either tank size. The idea is to strike a balance between adding enough to provide hiding/resting places for the fish, not overcrowding the tank (allowing swimming room), supplementing the filtration system, and creating a display that is aesthetically pleasing.>>
and a wet dry (not sure which brand) on a pre- drilled tank. My question since I am confused by your site,
<<?>>
what makes a sump different from the wet dry?
<<Hmm...is all explained on the site...many times over...a simple Google search finds much info re. make a start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sumprffiltfaqs.htm and keep following/reading the indices in blue until you understand.>>
Is it the lack of bio-balls?
<<Not necessarily>>
Also does the sump have live rock, sand or something else in there?
<<It can>>
Can I make either one with a spare tank (I'm pretty handy)?
<<Certainly...have a look through our DIY FAQs for links to sites with ideas/plans: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diytksfaqs.htm>>
I would appreciate if you could clear this up for me I read as much as I can but sometimes the more you read the more conflicting opinions you get and I want to start off right.
<<This hobby is much about opinions...the information you seek is available on the site...read and learn. EricR>>

Sump Brands and Protein Skimmer Selection  12/7/05
Once again, I'm in a quandary and could use some advice. No one at WWM has ever led me astray.
<Hi, glad we have helped you, I hope to do so again.>
I have a 120 gallon Oceanic with twin overflows. Currently it is plumbed to a 30 gal refugium and large Rubbermaid trough type sump, which holds a ETSS skimmer. The pump is an Iwaki MD40RLXT. 
<Sounds efficient.>
I have had good results with this system for the last 3 years, but need to simplify to save space (and my marriage). 
<Ahhh, I understand.>
I'm considering going to an under-tank refugium and am between 2 models: The large Aquafuge PRO (36x12x16) with skimmer and the Precision Marine R30 (30x14x18), no skimmer.
<I prefer the second model only because I’m not fond of the built in skimmer on the CPR model. I would much rather select my own.>
With the R30 I would possibly try to use my ETSS or add a hang-on Turboflotor.
<Well as you know in sump models are generally much more effective than the hang on varieties. However if you must use a hang on variety due to space constraints the Turbo floater. The Deltec model is at the top of my list with Aqua-C and Tunze coming in at second.>
I like the higher flow rate and layout of the Precision Marine model. In the Aquafuge, I like the longer refugium space and the built in skimmer.
<May I suggest another manufacture. I would look into the sumps/refugium combos available at MRC (My Reef Creations), these are very quality units as well.>
With either model, I fear I may be shrinking my refugium to a point where it is no longer effective.
<Any ‘fuge is better than no ‘fuge.>
Thanks for any insights you can provide. I have searched the forums and haven't seen much info on the Precision Marine refugium, hence this message.
<See above.>
sgl
<Adam J.> 

Upgrades to 240 fish only, or welcome to 2005!  11/18/05
Hello,
<Hi there>
I would like to begin by saying "thank you" to all the volunteers who share their time and knowledge with us. It is a tremendous service you offer, and we are all very appreciative. With that I shall launch into my situation. Thanks to Bob's excellent book (CMA), your web site, your response to my previous email a few months back, and a desire to no longer be called an "old school" marine fish keeper,
<Heeee! Better than "no school!">
I have begun changing my 240 marine FO with coral skeletons, wet-dry and canister filtration to natural filtration. When I started setting up my dream aquarium 10 months ago, I decided to use a mixture of "old school" and natural methods. I believe now that this was a huge mistake, and should have chosen one method and stuck with it. I did add a refugium, but it doesn't seem to help very much with my nitrate producing wet-dry, pressure filter, and DLS material in the over-flows.
<Yikes>
I also added a second Euro-reef skimmer. I am still battling nitrates, phosphates, brown algae, and red slime algae. The fish, however, are all doing great, having gone from a 125 to a 240.  And so I embark on a mission to modernize my tank. Here's the plan:
1) Remove all crushed coral and replaced with live sand. (Done) 
2) Modify refugium to accept a micron sleeve for mechanical filtration (it is a Redmond Reef model and does not include provisions for this) then remove the DLS from the overflow feeding the refugium.
<Good>
3) Remove all coral skeletons and replace with live rock (I have 200 lbs on its 3rd week of curing, plan on putting in after 4 full weeks - the water has 0 ammonia or nitrites, and the rock has only a faint odor)
<Great>
4) Add approx 50 Astrea snails and 50 blue legged hermit crabs to help keep things clean (my French Angel may find the hermits a tasty treat, we shall see) (is this enough?)
<As far as I'm concerned, yes>
5) Add additional lighting (I currently have 2 96 watt power compacts - I plan to double to 4 - is this necessary or advantageous?)
<More of the latter, but of good application for all the organisms it will encourage that are the live rock, and their consequent part of, impact on your system, yes>
6) Remove Ocean Clear canister filter after I am certain there will be no more die-off from the live rock (this thing works great, but is a real pain to clean, so I don't do it as often as I should)
<You are wise to understand yourself here>
7) Remove 50% of bio balls after 2 weeks, test water and if all goes well ...
8) Remove remaining bio balls 1-2 weeks later (is this good timing?)
<Oh yes>
9) With bio balls removed, modify wet/dry to make it a sump with room for a micron sleeve mechanical filter that can be easily changed out, then remove DLS material from it's overflow
<I would just use Emperor Aquatics catch bag/s here...>
How does this plan sound? I have a few additional questions, if you don't mind.
<Fine. Go right ahead>
I currently feed the wet-dry from one overflow and the refugium from the other. Should I combine the flow from both, then separate out to each device (making it easier to balance the input flow) or is this a waste of time and pvc?
<Mmm, somehow these are tied together I take it? To make sure there aren't overflow, underflow issues? If so, I would leave as is>
I currently use 2 separate pumps, one in the wet-dry and one in the refugium, for water returns. in the beginning, it was difficult to adjust the flow of each so everything stayed balanced. Even now I have to make minor adjustments every now and then.
<... I would plumb both these together... make them about the same height...>
The real problem would come from the failure of one of the pumps. This would cause the water to fill up the device with the failed pump (though it would not overflow - I tested that). But it would cause the other pump to run dry.
<Yes... not a good gamble>
So if one pump fails, essentially both fail. My thought is to combine the outputs of the wet-dry and refugium and use a single larger external pump (which I already have). Thoughts?
<I would definitely do this, yes>
Finally, by removing the Ocean Clear canister filter, I am removing a good source of water flow. I am not a big fan of powerheads in the tank. The tank was pre-drilled with 4 holes on top. One is used for the return from the wet-dry. One is used for the return from the refugium. The other two were used for the intake and output of the Ocean Clear. I would like to create a closed loop system with the external pump that was driving the Ocean Clear, but it is a very powerful pump, and without the pressure filter aspect of the Ocean Clear, would produce too strong a current. 
What I would like to do is split the output into two, but then I would no longer have a hole for the input. My plan is to drill a new hole in the back of the tank (it's acrylic), just below the water level should the pump driving the wet-dry and refugium ever fail. I am comfortable drilling holes in empty tanks, but I have never drilled a tank filled with water and livestock.
<Can be done... drain the water down, tape over the inside area where the hole will be... go S L O W... with the drill/bit>
My plan is to do this when I am doing a water change, so the hole would be above the water line. I would drill from the back into the tank, with a friend holding a cup over the drilled area to catch most if not all of the debris. Is this a good plan or should I take everything out before drilling (which I am certain I would never do, thereby scrapping my closed loop plan)?
<Can be done with some/most water in the systems>
Sorry for the length of this email. And thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.
Dana McKissick
<Thank you for writing so well, and sharing. Bob Fenner>