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FAQs about Toxic Water Conditions: Unknown Causes
Related Articles: Marine Toxic Tank Conditions
, General Marine
Maintenance, Related FAQs:
Toxic Situations 1, Toxic Situations 1,
Toxic Situations 2, Toxic Situations
3, Toxic Situations 4, Toxic
Situations 5, Toxic Situations 6,
Toxic Situations 7, Toxic Situations 8,
Toxic Situations 9, & FAQs on Toxic Water
Conditions by: Endogenous (from
inside, e.g. Internal, Organic Causes),
Foods, Nutrients,
Venomous/Poisonous Tankmates,
Wipe-out Syndromes/New Tanks e.g.,
Exogenous (from outside, External, Inorganic, e.g. Metals),
Marine Algaecide Use/Chemical Control,
Toxic Copper Use Situations/Troubleshooting,
Insecticides, Cleaners, &
Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Some livestock is touchier than others. | 
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What have I done? SW wipe-out... heat stress, nicotine, new sand/DSB?
12/04/08 Hi. I am literally in tears over this one...
<:-( Been there...> Have two month old 100G FOWLR. At least, right
this second... Am afraid to look and see that I have only a LR. Had a
Louti Grouper, Panther Grouper, Foxface and Humu Trigger. I wanted to
add another two inches of sand to my three inch sandbed. Perhaps, should
have asked more specifics on overall procedure... But it seemed simple
enough. I decided that this would be a good opportunity to rearrange the
aquascaping. I came home from LFS with a 50lb sack of dry reef sand and
a new Hydor Koralia 4 powerhead. I put 20 gallons of tank water in a
brand-new Rubbermaid container. Added the powerhead for circulation.
Added the heater just in case this took more than ten minutes (ha).
Threw in a few select top pieces of liverock. Pulled the rest of the
liverock (another 100lbs or so) and placed in another, larger container.
I then netted the four fish and transferred to the first container.
After initially hiding, the fishes began to swim about, business as
usual. I wont go into too much detail about the next course of events
and I suppose we have all been there, but... Oh MY god... You ever end
up praying to the universe for mercy? Anyway, at about 4:00 AM, after I
had rewired the plug on my Iwaki pump, soaked up as much water as I
could from the carpet and convinced my girlfriend that this was all just
a bad dream... I got back to the aesthetically rewarding act of
decorating. I thoroughly rinsed the new sand and slowly added it to
existing sandbed. I gently mixed it in, resulting in a nice, consistent
five inch DSB. Now, about an hour before, I had loosely placed the lid
on the container holding the fishes (cats started getting too curious).
<Unfortunately, even a "loose" lid might have kept sufficient air from
circulating inside the container.> Does the Powerhead generate that
much heat? In a small amount of water, I suppose? It shot up to about 90
degrees from the stable 80 I keep the tank (and heater) at. Everyone
still seemed okay except for the 5" Louti Grouper. I noticed his color
had changed to some obvious stressed, mottled look. I immediately turned
off the powerhead and slowly started adding water from the cooler main
display. Was this a mistake? <Depends how quickly you did this...>
I brought it down to about 82 in an hour or so. <A bit fast, but
shouldn't have been devastating.> I suppose I should mention this, as
well... I smoke. I always wash my hands before doing anything with
aquarium... Except this time (slightly stressed/rushed - me). I read
something somewhere on WWM about nicotine toxicity to fish. <This is
probably not what caused their deaths. I used to smoke when I first
started a marine fish tank... never had an issue with it.> Anyway, my
cigarette-laden hands were in their water. Bad? Ten minutes later, with
cooler water, Foxface was dead. I was waiting for main display to clear
up a bit before I put the rest back. I found the Louti dead with his
gill cover things sticking way out. I tested the water in holding
container: Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, PH down to 8.0, and I didn't bother
testing for Nitrates under the frantic circumstances. The main display
tested identical, so I floated the Panther in a plastic bowl to
acclimate temperature (tank was about 78 after partial water change).
Now, the 2" Humu wedged himself in to a rather large piece of liverock
during this ordeal. There was no way to float or acclimate in any way
the entire rock... So, after reaching my own psychological threshold, I
put the Trigger/rock in the tank. He stayed there... I woke up this
afternoon. Panther dead and Trigger looking okay... Swimming around,
poking at stuff. What all did I do wrong? <Honestly, I'm not
sure... you did a few "little" things that could/would/might stress the
fish out (lid on the container, heat spike, sharp cool down, etc)... but
to cause them to suddenly die like this? It seems very odd... I wonder
if there wasn't a residue of something toxic in the Rubbermaid container
(maybe cleaner used by the store or manufacturer?) I don't know...
can you rack your brain for anything else that might have come in
contact with the fist, water or container?> And please go easy on
me... For what it's worth, I believe I had always kept the best interest
of my Fishes in mind... I feel utterly and totally defeated. Thanks.
<I'm so sorry for your loss. I don't know if it will make you feel any
better, but we've all had this happen to us. I had it happen to me when
an exterminator came to my apartment (I thought I'd taken protective
measures, but I hadn't done so well enough)--I cried for days. And once,
I worked at a very nice LFS with a beautiful 200g reef tank that was
over 20 years old... one morning we came in and all the fish were just
dead (we never found the cause). Even Eric Borneman's tanks have crashed
at least a few times. So... unless you feel like you did something
terribly irresponsible, I wouldn't beat yourself up too much about it...
though, believe me, I know it hurts. :-( Feeling for you, Sara
M.> Re: What have
I done? 12/04/08 Thank you, Sara. It's amazing how much one
can become attached to each individual fish. But, it's also the overall
feeling of failure and lack of control. As much as I would like to learn
from this... In a way, it almost feels better to NOT know what went
wrong... Meaning, if YOU don't see anything obvious... <Maybe if I'm
missing something here, BobF will chime in... <<Would, If I had
something more to contribute. I don't. RMF>> but the only thing that
"alarmed" me (other than what I already mentioned) was that you stirred
up an established sand bed... sometimes this is dangerous. But you say
you removed the fish... ? For future reference though, do NOT stir up an
established sand bed. This is not necessary to add new sand. You can
just add the new sand on top of the old sand.> Maybe it was not
completely my fault... Sort of. Ultimately, they were fine before I
started messing with things, but I was thinking long-term (DSB,
aquascaping, etc.). Although I am not that experienced with
Rabbitfishes, they seem more fragile than a lot of other families. But,
I always thought of Groupers and Triggers as, more or less,
indestructible (barring the obvious). As both Groupers seem to have
succumbed to something respiratory (breathing heavy, then found dead
with gills protruding?)... Are Triggers less vulnerable to oxygen
issues? Other than locking himself into a hole, Humu didn't bat an
eye... I'm afraid to jinx it, but his color looks great and he is out
and about. Anyway, one more semi-rhetorical question... Tank seems
currently stable: 0 for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. Ph back up to 8.2.
Temp 79. I reiterate that I didn't add new "live sand" from a bag with
potential for die off. I did mix in dry (rinsed) reef sand. Would you
expect any type of mini-cycle from disrupting my sandbed? <Possibly>
And could I add (feel guilty using the word "replace") some fish? I'm
watching a 2" Trigger in 100G tank. I know... Be patient. I'm trying to
make myself feel better. Thanks, again <I would wait a few weeks just
to be safe... then be cautious (since you/we still don't know for sure
what caused this). I understand how awful it is to look into an empty
tank though... it sucks. But if you get another fish and it dies, you'll
just feel worse, trust me... as you guessed, try to be patient.
Best, Sara M.>
Dead, and don't know what to do... Read - 1/24/08 <?> Hi
Ok here is my situation. I have an 85 gallon tank, reef lighting
(Current) , a euro reef protein skimmer, a Megaflow sump filter model 4.
Live rock, two sea anemones, <... likely trouble. See WWM re
Actinarian comp.> one brittle star fish, one sea urchin, one fire
shrimp, a cleaner wrasse, <...> a six line wrasse, a mandarin Goby
and small clown. My lights on a timer so 2 hours in the am and then
6 in the evening. OK so every time I add a fish that is a little
bigger (Naso Tang or an Arugula Butterfly) they die. <...> The
last one was a Naso tang, I drip acclimated him and for three days
<!?> he was great he zipped around the tank and then on the third day
he is on his side no spots or nothing struggling to stay alive and then
dead. Water levels are all in zone. <What zone?> What is
going on ??? help? Thanks Jim <... Water tests? Filtration,
maintenance... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and
on to Env. diseases, Marine... You have a toxicity problem... likely
from the Cnidarians here... but... w/o test results, knowing what gear
you have... more data, can only vaguely guess. Bob Fenner>
Reef help, coral wont survive. 2/11/08 Hi, my
name is Bryce. I live in the Cincinnati Ohio area. I have been in
the hobby of saltwater aquariums now for 6 years and have had many
reef tanks mostly nano's. I have been slowly purchasing my equipment
for a bigger reef setup and yet am having trouble. For 2 months I
have been struggling with my reef tank and need some help. Any coral
I add never opens at all and dies or withers away. I first tried a
finger leather, then I tried a silver branch xenia followed by a
green star polyp colony and cant get anything to open. 3 months ago
I took down my 150 gallon FOWLR tank and setup a 75 gallon tank I
intend to make a reef. The tank is 48 inches wide and about 22
inches deep with the water column about 22 inches high give or take.
I moved all my fish, rock, and inverts (no coral)...just blue and
scarlet leg hermits and such once the new 75 gallon was setup. I
moved 75 gallons of water from my 150 to start and two weeks later
did a 25% water change like I usually do. My 75 gallon tank has a
1/2 inch thick Aragonite based sand bed, about 150 to 200 lbs of
live rock and 50 or so hermits and snails. Lighting is supplied by
2, 150 watt 14k metal halides and 4, 65 watt actinic 03 compact
fl's. I change my MH's every 6 months with Ushios, and the actinics
with Corallife bulbs every 8 months. The MH's are 12 inches above
the water surface, actinics are 6 inches. It is an open top tank. My
circulation is from 2 Hydor Koralia pumps at 1200 gal/hr each and
then my sump return of about 500 gal per hour. I have a siphon box
which empties into a refugium tank with just Chaeto macro algae and
a shallow sand bed with 10 lbs of live rock. It is lighted by a
50/50 65 watt compact fl. bulb. I let hair algae and green and what
ever else grows grow in my refugium tank and clean out the hair
algae once a month. I don't have any nuisance algae in my main tank.
From my refugium my water pours over through a 25 micron filter bag
and into my 20 gallon sump. I have an aqua-c ev180 protein skimmer,
a Corallife 36 watt uv sterilizer, JBJ Arctica 1/10hp chiller,
aqua-c rx-1 calcium reactor, a DIY anaerobic denitrator, <What is
this fed with? The source of carbon or?> and an auto top off unit
connected to a solenoid through a ro/di unit recently tested at 7ppm
total dissolved solids. My water changes come from this ro unit and
I use reef crystals as my salt mix at a specific gravity of 1.025
measured with a hydrometer. My parameters are as such. Water is 79
to 80 degrees, nitrates 0ppm, nitrites 0ppm, phos 0ppm, magnesium is
always around 1250ppm, calcium is about 400 to 420 ppm, ph is 8.3,
KH is 10 to 11, ammonia is always undetectable. I dose with only
magnesium and use Carib sea A.R.M in my reactor. When I got my 75
gallon tank all setup and running I had 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 blue
tang and 1 royal Gramma. All the fish had been in my 150 gallon tank
for at least 6 months, the clowns over 3 years. My trouble started
when I noticed my Gramma was always in hiding. I thought since the
acclimation maybe he was stressed. He died 2 weeks after the tanks
was setup. Then my blue tang died of what appeared to be an Oodinium
infection as did my clowns shortly after. I have no idea where the
Oodinium came from as my newest fish .. the blue tang ... was
quarantined for 3 weeks before going in the 150 gallon tank and
lived there for months without any problem. <Somehow got by...>
I assume that there must have been a very small number of the
parasite in the water and the immunity of the fish was able to keep
it under control until the stress of a new home maybe lowered their
immune system. I don't know. But that added to all this frustration.
It leads me to believe there is an "unseen" problem with my water
quality. <I agree... Your set-up reads as fine... but there is a
chemical, perhaps bio-chemical anomaly here somewhere> I had
several thoughts about what may be wrong. I thought maybe H2S from
my denitrator was getting in my water. <Mmm, this, or...>
Effluent out of the unit doesn't smell and it is at a constant drip
rate into the sump and the tank is very well circulated. The
denitrator has been running now for 4 years on whatever tank setup I
have at the time. I have never had any problems with it. <This
gear can/does change...> Sand bed is shallow...so I ruled out h2s
in my mind. Plumbing was all new with pvc and I used aquarium grade
silicone with standard pvc cement for all joints. Perhaps some
chemical is getting into my water? <From? A cat-box near by?
Someone spraying glass et al. cleaner in a too air-tight house?>
Perhaps the first coral I introduced died and released some chemical
toxin my other subsequent coral attempts did not like? <Most
real possibility mentioned yet> I thought maybe my RO/DI unit was
malfunctioning in some way... I tested the water locally at a dealer
of units and total dissolved solids was 7ppm.. id like it at 0 but
with Ohio river water as my starting point I think it is working ok.
I changed my carbon pre and post filter every 6 months along with my
DI resin. My skunk cleaner shrimp, all my crabs, my snails,
everything is alive and well and seems to be doing great. <A
good clue> Just cant get my corals to open up. I acclimate them
slowly using standard bag floating methods. <Mmm, see WWM... I'd
acclimate Cnidarians differently. Posted> I always start with my
lights off and proceed with only actinics for one day. Then each day
have my MH's on one more hour until I am up to the full 8 hour
photoperiod. I typically use my actinics from 8am to 9pm and my MH's
from 11am to 7pm. I have had many corals in the past and have never
had a problem quite like this one. I always had a minimum amount of
lighting and equipment though. I have never had such an elaborate
setup as I do now and yet cant get any coral to live. I don't know
if my Oodinium problem was related to bad water quality in some way
or if it was just stress from the move. <Also agreed> Sorry to
write a book but I just wanted your professional help and opinion as
to my next move or next thing to test for. I don't want to keep
trying coral without knowing why they don't open up. Something is
not right. Could I be filtering my water so well that it is devoid
of what the coral needs to open and thrive? <Mmm... not likely>
Is it all just happening too fast after I setup my 75 gallon tank
and things just are not quite in balance? Please help, thanks BRYCE.
<Could be the source of the livestock/corals even... I would try
setting up another system to acclimate them in... move some of the
water from the 75 once some are settled in (a few weeks to
months)... to test the "poor water" hypothesis... Then... I would
systematically remove one element at a time... My first choice, the
denitrator. Bob Fenner>
Re: reef help, coral wont survive. 2-12-08 We have a cat box
downstairs about 6 feet from the 30 gallon top-off water tank. I
guess this could be my issue. What is in the cat litter that would
cause my problem? <Mostly thought to be ammonia getting into
solution... can be measured if present> I guess I should move one
or the other. <And do consider the systematic water and gear
testing protocol mentioned previously. BobF> |
Marine... Ebola?! 7/25/06 I've agonized over writing you,
<Why? We're very approachable> but I'm loosing <And losing?>
my grip on saltwater and thought you might be able to help
me. These are my tanks: #1 100 gallon - 6 months - 2 medium
Lionfish, 2 Wrasses, 1 Tang, 1 Trigger. #2 100 " - 2
months - 1 Foxface, 1 Marine Betta, 1 Blue Tang.
180 " - 4 months - 1 medium Puffer, 1 Yellow Tang, 1
Red Breasted Wrasse I have two 20 gallon, two 10 gallon
quarantine tanks for new fish and any sick fish. I have 165 gallons
of curing saltwater that is left for a week or more before using.
<Good> Each of the tanks water tests are identical. PH 8.2,
Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 ppm, Salinity 1023. All fish
are compatible. Water changes are timely. No overfeeding.
<Sounds good> Here is the problem. At any given time a new
fish, whether he is in a quarantine tank or in #2 100 or the 180,
developed gross looking eyes, parts of their bodies turn dark, and
die within 48 hours. <... yikes....> The established fish
are not affected at all. <Habituated...> The interesting
part is that # 1 100 tank has never had any health issues, but I
have never introduced any new fish to what is already there. I'm at
a loss. Bob <Sounds like Mycobacterium... maybe M.
marinum... take a read on the Net, WWM re... Bob Fenner>
Re: Marine... Ebola! 7/25/06 Thanks for your
reply, Bob. I should confess that I've lost 17 fish from three
different providers, causing me to believe my environment had to be
causing the deaths. <Me too... something (universal) is very
off... Perhaps a household spray cleaner use? Some contaminant in
the decor/type of rock you're using in all three systems?. I would
place a unit of PolyFilter in the filter flow path of these
systems... see if you can't "pick up" some definitive color>
Most of the fish were either small (clowns, dwarf lion, spotted
puffer, Sailfin, etc.) or fragile fish (butterflies, angels, etc.)
<Mmm, all should not perish at this quick rate...> My quarantine
tanks and equipment have been bleached. My thought now is to bring
an adult, more durable fish to see if it survives. <Or... if I
may suggest to your plan, slowly adding system water to the
Quarantine tank... to see if this "acclimatizes" the new specimens>
If that works, from now on bringing in one fish at a time. What do
think of this game plan? What fish would you recommend? <Too
many to make general statements... though, being a cheapskate
(family Rajidae?), likely some species of hardy damsels...
Dascyllus...> Why this hobby is so important to me, I'm a 74
year old retiree who not only enjoys fishkeeping, but needs it for
mental health. <... I as well> Thanks again, Bob
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner> |
Used Tank
Just curious about a 115 Gal DAS tank that I used to own. Every thing I
put into it other than fish would die almost immediately. I bought the
tank used <Could have been that a toxin/poison had gotten into the
tank. Even soap is difficult almost impossible to get out of a
tank...and it will kill, depending on how sensitive your animals are to
that particular toxin> and when I bought it the LFS in Alabama had
some dead rock in it. Should have started me looking right there, I
know but was new in the marine business. <Also...Did you test the
water and wait until cycling was finished before adding any critters to
the tank?> I used RO/DI water exclusively and tested the tank weekly
and did all my water changes. <Sounds good> If I put an anemone
in it died within an hour. <Anemones are bad for just about
everyone's tank. They just don't survive> I tested for copper using
the Seachem kit and it read 0. <Doesn't mean there weren't trace
amounts> Snails and shrimp also died VERY quickly. <Sounds like
copper poisoning or soap> All water qualities were in
parameters. PH, Salinity, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and phosphate
were zero. Couldn't keep any inverts at all alive. It's been really
bothering me over the years. Any ideas???????? <You got 'em! Sounds
like a classic case of copper poisoning! David Dowless> - Re:
New Sump, New Problems - This in reply to Jason C who asked me a
few questions. <Well... I'm back.> Before I had a emperor 400. No I did
not clean it before I installed it. <The sump... well...> I am kicking
myself today for that. It was new so I didn't even think about it. <Call
me paranoid, but I clean everything before I put it in my tank.> Since
last night I lost my Kole Yellow Eye, and he was the only one who wasn't
showing any signs of rapid breathing. <I'm sorry to hear about your
loss.> I have a new cap 2200 pump with all new plumbing from prefilter
to drain line to return pump. I have messed up big time with something.
Good news is my False Perc clown and blue tang who was laying on their
sides last night seem to be doing better. <Ahh good.> I did a 50% WC
last night and ran 18 oz of carbon last night and replaced it with fresh
18oz of carbon this morning. <Good plan, I'd even do another large [50%]
water change again soon - let the new water a day or so to mix before
you add it.> Even my button polyp was affected by this. It swelled up
and has yet to come back to normal. Bristle stars and hermits seem to be
unaffected as well. <Interesting.> Do you think it was me not washing
the new equipment out? <A distinct possibility. Again... going on the
fact that your nitrogen-cycle tests indicate there is nothing toxic in
the tests, you need to look for other 'instant' contaminants. The fact
this all happened right after you installed the new sump is the best
clue you have.> That seems to be the only thing I can think of. <Or
related - perhaps something you had on your hands when doing the work.>
What a stupid mistake if so. <It's an honest mistake, and potentially
one with regrettable consequences, but not the type of mistake that is
often repeated afterwards.> Thanks again, Jason <Cheers, J -- >
Can't keep fish alive - 55g. Hi Bob <Kevin here today!>
This is the first time writing to u but have used your website for many
answers. I have a new saltwater tank 55g it has been cycled for at least
2 months and everything tests at 0 the salinity is 1.022 and the temp
around 78. I cant get anything to stay alive in this tank except a few
turbo snails and a few hermits, when I put fish in they stay swimming at
the top and after a few days they die I have done an almost complete
water change after the last deaths put in a Green Chromis and it did
fine so I move in a Maroon Clownfish he is now swimming at the top of
the tank. Anything u can tell me would be great because I'm ready to
tear it down ! <Whoa. First thing to do is verify your test results
by comparing them with a different kit (Fastest/Seatest, Salifert, etc)
and make sure that you have no pH, ammonia, or nitrite problems. Second,
establish a quarantine tank, the fish you are getting could be sick from
the get-go. I'd like to know how this tank is set up, what equipment is
used, and what kind of maintenance you do on it. Also, how do you
acclimate these fish? Do you see any slime, dust, bumps, or spots on the
fish? Do they breath very hard? Do they die with their gills wide open?
Let me know, we'll get to the bottom of this! -Kevin> - Fish
Issues - Hi, I have had real trouble keeping fish alive, my
reef tank is close to a year old, 55g, 3" sand, AquaC Remora, 4x65w PC
lighting. All water parameters are fine, my corals are fine, and my
snails and cleaner shrimp have been in there forever. <Interesting.> The
fish keep dying after a few weeks, they really don't look sick
either. Mostly dwarf angels, tangs etc. so not really small fish, I
don't believe I have an attacker somewhere. <Most likely there is an
issue with your supply - have you bought these all in the same place?
I'd be wanting to blame them, or at the very least their supplier.> I
have done small frequent water changes, even a close to 100% water
change (no fish anyway). I use RO/DI for water and buffer with
Seachem. Could any of my corals be producing something toxic to the
fish?? I am out of ideas. My corals are a multi-mushroom polyp,
Galaxea, umbrella mushroom, Goniopora, frogspawn, type of brain, large
star polyp and an Acropora. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, this
is getting way to expensive! :-( <No doubt - I'd work with a local store
to procure, and then put a deposit on any fish you might want - let them
keep it for two weeks before you take it home. Check up on it several
times and make sure it's eating. That should make a difference.>
Thanks! -Brian <Cheers, J -- > Dead Fish Bob I
have a 8 month old, 75 gallon reef/fish tank that consisted of 4' yellow
Tang, False Percula, Clark's Eye, Potter Angel, Orange Chromis and a
Royal Gramma. In addition, to this I also have an long tentacle anemone,
3 cleaner shrimp and a Coral banded. I run 2 Emperor 400 and a protein
skimmer and 60lbs of live rock. I added 20lbs of live rock and within 4
to 5 days my nitrate went from 15 to 40 but everything else stayed at 0.
And within 24hrs the Clarks Eye, Percula, Orange Chromis and all 3
cleaner shrimp died. I did a 10% water change the first day and then a
25% water change till the nitrate came back down and things stop dying.
Do you have any idea as to why my organisms died? Thanks in advance
Doug >> Two general possibilities... some sort of poisoning from
1) outside or 2) inside the system... the nitrate being a big clue. The
"life" in your system (including the very real possibility of much of
the uncured, or re-stabilizing live rock) started to die from whatever
the initial cause was/is (a spray cleaner from outside, nicotine on some
smoker's arm in the tank... a lack of oxygen in your system, overfeeding
event, curing live rock...) and triggered the losses... Moving on to
the more important question here (I can't bring back the dead... yet).
"How to prevent such mortalities in the future"... Do consider placing
some live macro-algae in your system to use up the nitrates... and
adding an airstone to increase oxygen availability.... And possibly
boosting your lighting to increase photosynthesis on your live rock (and
the macro-algae)... that will accomplish both diminishing the nitrates
(and other nutrients) and increasing gaseous exchange. Bob Fenner
Help me!!!!!!!! marine aquarium problem I have a 60gal. marine
tank that has been set up for 2 months now. I have 2 Featherdusters,
40lbs. of live rock, sand bottom, 3 damsels, 1 percula clown. For
filtration I have a canister filter (w/ BioChem stars, pads, carbon
filtration), U.V sterilizer, and a protein skimmer. I have a triton bulb
for lighting which is on for 11 hours daily. I do water changes every
week by tap water threw a water purifier its for drinking) then add
Amquel, reef crystals salt), and let sit for overnight while heating up
with a heater. The problem is that I loose every fish I introduce into
the system in about 3-5 days!!!! I lost 2 Kole, hippo, yellow tangs,
x-mas wrass,2 percula clowns, pigmy, bi-color, and flame angels, lemon
seed butterfly, fox face and probably others that I cant remember. The
ph is 8.2-8.4 . Salinity is 1.022 . Temp is 78 . ammonia, nitrates,
nitrites are always at 0 ( I test every 2 days). There seem to be no
aggression with new or old tankmates. Am sure there is no
poisonous display material in the tank because there is only liverock,
fake coral, and some pieces of coral that were bought from a aquarium
store and ran under water( hot and no detergents) before introducing. I
tried many ways of introducing new fish including floating bag method,
drip method, water swap method etc. Most of the fish that died looked
very healthy and eating hours before death although, the Kole, hippo,
and bi-color angel developed what looked like ick in 2 days after
introducing then died 2 days later. All other fish just died after
looking very healthy just days before. Please help!!!! I am very
discouraged but want a marine system badly. Money and patients are
running low. <Something is very wrong here... could be simply a
metal contaminant (check for a clamp, bit of metal in your substrate, a
thermometer?...), maybe just a lack of oxygen!? Please see our website:
www.WetWebMedia.com on the Marine Index, the sections on "Toxic Tank
Situations", "Acclimation", "Circulation"... At any length, I strongly
encourage you to pre-mix your new seawater per the protocol stored on
the WWM site under "Using Seawater", to add a powerhead or two to
increase circulation and aeration AND to add more lighting... to boost
the metabolism/photosynthesis of your live rock organisms... We will
find the root cause of your difficulty here and solve it. Bob Fenner>
Ocellaris clown and mandarin (and anomalous toxicity) Bob,
I've got a 37 gal tank...nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and pH all look
good, salinity is ~1.023 and temp is ~78F. I have an ocellaris clown, a
spotted mandarin , some mushrooms, snails, hermit crabs, a Featherduster
and some sponges (along with about 40 lbs of live rock). The problem
started about 4 weeks ago. I bought a kauderni cardinal and watched as
it absolutely refused to eat anything I fed for about 2 weeks. It looked
healthy otherwise, normal respiration, no spotting and swimming
normally. Then after about two weeks it started swimming funny (sinking
near the bottom, I took that as a bad sign) and it was gone in the
morning. I assume it made its way into one of the live rock crevices and
was never seen again. A few days later I noticed a couple of spots on my
clown and pseudo springeri (I didn't mention him earlier, he is no
longer around). I medicated the tank with Marin Oomed...I used it once
before a couple of years ago with good results. My luck seems to have
changed though, the springeri got worse and died 2 days ago. The
clownfish is starting to look bad (more white spots) and looks to be
breathing a little heavy. I've gone through the Marin Oomed cycle twice
now and it doesn't appear to be working. <No. I don't think your
problem is treatable in this way... don't think it's parasitic, but
environmental...> The mandarin has also developed a couple of spots
as well but seems to be by far in better shape. Unfortunately I do not
have a quarantine tank.....what should I do next?? I've had the clown
fish for over 5 years and really don't want to lose it. Thanks for any
help. <I suggest the "standard" "drop back and punt" routine here of
a succession of water changes, cleaning of filter gear, gravel
vacuuming, and running a pound or so of activated carbon in your filter
flow path... that and ceasing whatever "supplement" activity you're
currently involved in... Bob Fenner> Chris Toxic tank
Hi, Having a difficult time with a new 90 saltwater tank. Turbo snails
die within ten minutes of being put in the tank. A Yellow tang within
two days. A small hermit crab lasted one week. <Mmm> Currently
living happily are 1 Percula Clown 2 tomatoes 1 Damsel As of
two days ago- a lunar wrasse and a domino which I wrongfully accused of
causing the problem and gave them back to the LFS. ammonia - 0
nitrites- 0 nitrates- 10 ppm ph 8.6 no live rock <The live
rock would help a great deal to modify, stabilize water quality, provide
cover, forage... Please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/liverock1.htm and beyond> lighting 65
watts 10K & 65 watts ultra actinic CF Wet/dry 2 ft ^3 with t1000
protein skimmer in the sump. 1.023 SG The tank is 4 1/2 months
old. I cycled it using damsels and a yellow tang. After 3 months
purchased an emperor angle and everything started going wrong. The 3"
long emperor died two days later. Then the yellow tang which helped
cycle the tank became very thin overnight and died the next day. Waited
a week and tried turbo snails and a hermit crab and a Koran angle.
Turbos died after a few hours, Korean died the next day, and crab lasted
a week before dying. Waited two weeks and did a water change and added a
turbo snail and a yellow tang. Snail died after a few hours and tang
became very thin by the next day and died. Thinking that it might be a
toxin, put a large bag of carbon in the sump to try to save the tang but
it didn't help or was too late. <There is "something" chemically
either "too much" (like a metal) in your system or "too little" like
alkalinity (do test for this)> It seems like a toxin somehow got in
the tank. Things that I suspect have all been in the tank since day one,
but I will list them. I used 1000 shot gun shell wads as the bio media
as I have heard of other people doing this. <Yes, for folks who
utilize wet-dry filtration> (I boiled them in water before putting
them in the sump) Used black Plexi glass in the tank around the
bottom drain to control the water which feeds the sump. Used vinyl
tubing in the filtration system. Used polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) to
make the sump. Everything else in the tank is very standard and
purchased at the local pet store. One other questionable thing I do is
mix a small amount of Novaqua conditioner to the "new" salt water before
adding it to the tank during water changes. I have added no other
medicines/chemicals and am very careful not to introduce pet store water
into the tank. <Good accounting of your actions> I still have the
carbon bag in the tank. I am thinking of doing a massive water change,
say 90 gallons, to the tank but would hate to do this without knowing
what went wrong because I don't want to do it again. I was in the
process of buying 50 pounds of LR when all this went wrong, but
cancelled the order as I didn't want to kill all that rock. <Don't
worry here... the LR will not all die... but will/would change the water
for the better> Any thoughts or suspicions? Thanks for the help your
(recently discovered) site has given me. Scott Buske <I would go
ahead with the addition of the live rock, get/use an alkalinity test
kit... and likely get rid of the shotgun wadding (and not use any
wet-dry media...) ultimately changing the sump to a refugium style
filter. Bob Fenner> Can't figure out what it wrong
Hello, We have a 150 gallon tank that is about 6 months old. After
going through the maturation process we tried to stock it with fish, we
would add the fish and they would be fine for about a week and then die.
We keep a close eye on the ammonia, pH, nitrate, and nitrite, all were
zero when we added them and it was zero when the died. Every time we add
fish they look really healthy eat good and swim with no problems, but
with in a week to 14 days they all die. What are we doing wrong? We have
read several books can't find anything to help. It seems the only thing
that I can keep alive is a pacific cleaner shrimp, and he looks kind of
small in this big tank all by himself. Thank You, M. Pinkston
<Somewhere, somehow something chronically to acutely toxic has made/is
making its way into your tank. A few ideas come to mind. Ammoniated
"window" cleaners being sprayed around, soaps/detergents coming into
contact with your water (through a communal bucket, sponge...), "tramp"
metal sneaking in through your gravel, décor (some "lava" rocks cause
this, and often an iron test kit will reveal it), even a metal
thermometer... any metal contact... I know it must be discouraging (to
put it mildly) to keep losing your fish... so I would make the big move:
Dump the tank, remove the gravel, clean and dry it, spread it out and
look for signs of metal introduction. Re-set up the tank, add some live
rock (this will really help) and put the shrimp back in. Wait about a
month and introduce some fishes. If the new fishes seem to be going
sideways, add some PolyFilter in your filter flow path and get back to
me about what color it changes...Bob Fenner> Dying fish...
Bob- HELP!! I can’t keep anything alive for more than several weeks.
I have a 125ga with 130+ lbs of LR covered with coralline algae, 1-2“ of
crushed coral substrate, wet/dry sump, protein skimmer, Eheim filter, UV
filter, 2 powerheads, 2-24” blue actinic bulbs and 2 trichromatic bulbs.
The tank has been set up for about 18 months. For the first 6 months or
so, I had a juv. Imperator, a yellow tang and a blue tang. The imperator
died of unknown cause, but the tangs continued on. Since then I have
killed 2 powder blue tangs, 3-4 flame angels, 3 Auriga Butterflyfish, 2
Longnose yellow Butterflyfish, Koran angels, juv French angels, gobies,
etc, etc... I have been able to keep the 2 original tangs alive for 18
months or so, and I have had pretty good luck with the ‘clean-up crew’.
Those that have died, I assumed became dinner for some lucky fish. None
ever appeared to be diseased with ich or any other parasite, they
generally would stop eating and be dead within a day or so. 3 weeks ago,
I got an Auriga from FFE, and it did fine in the quarantine tank. It was
in the quarantine tank for 2 weeks and died 2 days after being in the
main tank. The night before it died, it was eating and acting normal.
Because of its aggressive behavior, I put the yellow tang in the small
tank when I put the Auriga in the main tank. The tang died this morning,
after having it for 18 months. The fish have been purchase from local
shops as well as FFE. I feed 1-2 times a day and have used small amounts
of Ocean Nutrition Formula One, Two, frozen as well as live brine, dried
red and brown algae. All the food is gone within several minutes. I
have done 10-20% water changes using RO water from a local ‘water store’
the entire time the tank has been up. The water has always tested within
normal ranges. For the last 6 months or so, I premixed the water in a
large trash can for 2-3 days. Prior to this, I would premix it in the 5
gallon containers. I put de-Chlor and ‘Prime’ in the water. Most of the
time when I did water changes, I would vacuum the substrate. Having
talked to several local shops, they all said to cut back on the
vacuuming. The last time I did was several months ago. Since then, the
nitrates have been lower than normal, 10-20 instead of the usual
30-40ppm. The skimmer has been foaming more than usual though. I wash my
hands every time before I put them in the tank. The only thing I can
think of that would contaminate the tank would be the usual household
cleaners used in the same room as the tank but, not on the tank itself.
I clean the Eheim every 3 months, changing the charcoal and rinsing the
pre-filters. I’ve used Poly Filters in the overflow for the last year or
so. The quarantine tank was set up with gravel from the main tank and
the water changes are done with water coming out of the main tank after
the new water has been added. I’ve kept a log for the last 8 months and
have found no connection to anything. When I talked with the local
shops, and they suggested cutting back on the vacuuming to allow for the
biological filter to build up, I got a dozen damsels to help ‘re-cycle’
the tank. All but 4 died within a week. As I mentioned earlier, I
haven’t noticed any parasites or any ‘mystery worms’ or strange
inhabitants as I have read about so many times in your daily column.
There has been an occasional ‘scratching’ on the rocks but nothing that
would indicate any other sign of stress. I have read and re-read CMA
until I think I have it memorized. Should I start all over? I hate to
get rid of all the LR if I don’t have to, but at this point I am willing
to do most anything. A friend has 3 smaller tanks and never does so much
as a water change and they are all doing great. Please help! This is
really frustrating (and expensive). I’m sorry this is so long but I
wanted to give as much background as I could. Thanks. Andy Lange
PS. During the writing of this, I took a break for dinner and noticed
the remaining long time surviving blue tang, acting strange. <Thank
you for writing... and supplying necessary information... I do
suspect some form of chronic poisoning as you hint... Can you tell me,
what color, if any, the PolyFilter pads change to? It's possible
that there are some toxic organisms also that could be slowly poisoning
the system... we will get rid of them as well: And if we can't find
the root cause... not cleaners in your case... their effects would be
direct and immediate... but some sort of "tramp metal"... like a rusting
clamp, some ferrous trash that came with your rock, substrate... a break
in a coating on a metallic component in your filtration... (I would take
some of your water into a dealer that has a sensitive iron test kit...
this is the most common metal element that causes trouble)... then I
would definitely go a/the extreme route... as I'm soon to list: Do
consider taking the tank apart... This is not such a big job as it may
appear at this point, and will indeed be satisfying... in solving your
mysterious death problems. Take out and freshwater rinse your live
rock, and stack/store dry (i.e., not underwater) out of the way...
Drain the tank to the near bottom, but with some water above the gravel,
and apply a good gallon of "swimming pool" bleach (sodium
hypochlorite)... carefully so you don't stain anything... stir the
bleach water in and around your substrate. Let this whole mess stand for
an hour or more... with your windows open on a "nice day". Add
freshwater, drain, add freshwater, drain... and then take out the
gravel, rinse it, store it, and return it to the tank... re-set the
whole thing up... with synthetic salt mix... and replace the live rock
in about three/four days... Yes, not a typo. Let the rock air-dry this
long... Much of the desirable life on it will come right back... and the
not so desirable will be dust. Let this whole system run for a month...
before starting your re-stocking...and one last item: cease using the
Prime product... it probably has not much to do with your situation, but
is unnecessary. Bob Fenner> Help! My Entire Tank Is Dead!
Hi Bob, I bought a fish that started showing signs of sickness a
couple of days after I put him in my tank. Whatever this illness is,
ended up killing off my entire tank. Here's what happened: My fish
started looking like they had dead skin hanging off of them. My local
fish store suggested RxP so I started treating the tank immediately.
Within 24 hours, half of my fish were dead ( 2 within hours of adding
the RxP) and the other half started looking even worse. They were all
eating just fine throughout all this massive death. Anyway, I've
tested and retested my water and everything looks fine. However, now
there is all this white tubular stuff on my live rock and just today
there are little white things on the glass of my tank that look a lot
like smaller versions of these long tubular white things. Honestly, most
of this stuff looks like mold! Some of it is even on the plants of my
live rock and it wasn't there before. I bought 20 pounds of Fiji
live rock a couple of weeks before I got the fish that was the first to
become ill. Didn't know if this had anything to do with it. So after
being so long-winded, I suppose my question is: What in the world went
wrong and where do I go now to get my tank back in shape for more fish?
So I'm back to my original statement: Help! My entire tank is dead! :)
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Apryl Duncan
<Yeeikes! Let's go back a few, make that all steps... Don't know, can't
say what the problem was, the root cause(s) or if the medicine hastened
your livestock's' demise or you did from overdosing... And at this
point, don't know from your description what the tubular bits are... but
they might well be decomposers... they are of little consequence. At
any length, I do know what I would do at this point: Take about a third
of the water out and replace it with freshwater...as in tap... and let
the tank run for a month like that... Much of your "live" part of rock
may die, but so will about all of the possible disease-causing organisms
that might have been there... After the month, raise the specific
gravity back to about 1.022 and try a few damsels... and then we'll talk
again. Bob Fenner> Appended: Unexplained Fish Deaths?
Bob, I sent you another message this morning (attached) asking about
some unexplained fish deaths. At lunch today as I looked into the tank
and saw a greyish/white translucent slug looking thing with antennae
perched on a rock spewing something into the water. I left the room for
just a minute and when I came back it was gone. Do you know what this
could be and could it be my fish killer. Thanks again, John <Not
a/the fish killer you might believe... But likely some sort of snail,
worm reproducing (or maybe just eliminating), in response to (one last
gasp) to poor environmental conditions... ADD NOTHING MORE TO THIS TANK
for a few weeks... it will settle down... Then we'll talk about spiffing
up your water quality... Maybe take a look at this issue, skimmers....
at my site: www.wetwebmedia.com Bob Fenner> Within about two
hours, every fish in our tank died (Firefish, Percula clown, Mandarin).
We also lost all the snails, almost lost our shrimp and polyps and
mushrooms too, but we got them out in time. None of the fish had looked
sick. No spots, discoloration, or any weird behavior. If you would have
looked at the tank, the top of the water almost looked like it had suds
on it and our protein skimmer was bubbling over. We had our water tested
and everything came back perfect. I was wondering if you have any ideas
as to what could have happened and what we need to do to get our
tank back up again. Nicki Kubes <Something, very, acutely toxic...
either started from outside (an ammonia based cleaner, soap/detergent on
a hand, a cigarette butt...) or inside... A cascade of events... from
the organisms you list, likely the mushrooms... poisoning their
tankmates... A type of chemical warfare that goes on "in the wild"
regularly... but with a much larger dilution salvation.... To
prevent or forestall such future problems, regular water changes, the
use of chemical filtrants periodically, keeping the mushrooms clearly
separated from other sessile invertebrates... plenty of circulation,
aeration, growing macro-algae in the system or a specialized sump
(mud/rock/algae) filter... all help. Bob Fenner, who is sorry to hear
of your losses and directs you to the "Toxic Tank Conditions" and
"Environmental Disease" areas of www.wetwebmedia.com for more
information.>
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