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FAQs about Toxic Water Conditions: Venomous, Poisonous Livestock
Related Articles: Marine Toxic Tank Conditions
, General Marine
Maintenance, Related FAQs:
(See the various Organism Groups below "Compatibility" FAQs files on
WWM), Toxic Situations 1,
Toxic Situations 2, Toxic Situations
3, Toxic Situations 4, Toxic
Situations 5, Toxic Situations 6,
Toxic Situations 7, Toxic Situations 8,
Toxic Situations 9, & FAQs on Toxic Water
Conditions by: Unknown Causes, &
Endogenous (from inside, e.g. Internal, Organic Causes):
Foods, Nutrients,
Wipe-out Syndromes/New Tanks e.g.,
Exogenous (from outside, External, Inorganic, e.g. Metals),
Marine Algaecide Use/Chemical Control,
Toxic Copper Use Situations/Troubleshooting,
Insecticides, Cleaners, &
Troubleshooting/Fixing, | 
Insidious, toxic BGA
|
|
The list of potentials is very long: | Most all
groups of stinging-celled life: See
Cnidarian Compatibility: On Reducing Negative Cnidarian Interaction
Parts: 1, 2,
3, 4,
5, Nudibranchs, some Worms, most Blue Green Algae, some Greens
(e.g. Caulerpaceans), Most Nudibranchs, some Cephalopods (Blue ring
et al. octopi, Flamboyant Cuttlefish), some Seastars (e.g. the Crown
of Thorns), some types/species of Sea Cucumbers and Urchins... Some
notable fish groups: Plotosid Catfishes, Lionfishes and their
relatives, Rabbitfishes, Soapfishes, Boxfishes (actually all puffers
if they die/dissolve)... |
Losing Fish 6/18/09
Okay have a 75 gal that had established inhabitants of:
Archer Fish
Blue Barred Pseudochromis
Orange Spotted Prawn Goby
Midas Blenny
Scooter Blenny
Pearly Jawfish
Lyretail Molly
Radiant Wrasse
Sump has a pistol shrimp
Have not added any new rock in years however I have been having a
very annoying Aiptasia problem and they are spreading and growing
very fast, I'll think they're gone using aiptasia X but they'll be
back and stronger before you know it.
<Perhaps adding a biological control>
My fish are disappearing one by one over the past month though, today
I found my hermits chewing on the corpse of my Orange Spotted Prawn
Goby which I've had for over two years and who I saw showing no
signs of stress and eating right before the lights went out the
night before. Two nights before that the pearly Jawfish was found
dead and 2 nights before that it was the molly. About a week before
that the archerfish disappeared and I never found the corpse. A month
before that an Exquisite Wrasse I had disappeared as well, after the
archerfish died I was SURE it was the Pseudochromis harassing and
killing as he would constantly dart out at fish from the rocks
Damsel style.
<Mmm, doubtful>
So I caught him and took him in to the store where he is right now.
So tank has Scooter Blenny and Midas Blenny left, neither show signs
of illness or stress. Radiant Wrasse is there also but he's had some
craziness going on for several months that have caused him to be
blind in one eye and lay on the sand like he's dead when no one is
around, and then swim around begging for food when I walk over.
So yeah, any ideas? Phosphates, Nitrite, Ammonia, Nitrate are all
zero, other inverts in the tank consist of a Harlequin shrimp
squatting on chocolate chip star, hermits, snails, two fighting
conchs, spiny oyster, and two porcelain crabs.
<I fully suspect the overly-abundant Aiptasia here... poisoning,
stinging your fishes... and the hermits just doing clean-up. I would
work on ridding, at least reducing the Glass Anemone population.
Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_1/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_imp
ressions.htm
and the linked files at the bottom. Bob Fenner>
Something Amiss... SW poisoning event... from...
4/23/2009
Hi WWM crew(Wet Wise Men (and Women)),
Hope all is well with everyone. I am still a five year beginner in
the hobby and have a 72g bowfront reef tank.
Problem 1 = The 2" Clown has not been eating very well and today not
at all. For the last three days, he has been resting on the bottom
of the tank and barely moving.
<Mmmm>
He also appears to be breathing rapidly and twitching. He opens and
closes his mouth around 3 to five times a second. I think that there
is some very minute white specks right below his first and second
dorsal fin but it is not very apparent. The second dorsal fin also
has a few small tears. The 1 " Clown is not staying close to her as
he always did and is doing great. I put her in a 10g QT tonight.
<Good... something amiss here...>
Problem 2 = My Imperator Angel
<Needs more room than this>
has been acting strange the last few days as well. He is darting
quite often and twitching his nose, tail and body. He is breathing
rapidly (around 5 times per second). As of today, has a loss of
appetite (He ate some freeze dried brine today but passed on the
Selcon soaked mysis and flake food.) He is hiding a bit more than
usual. He also appears to have some very minute white discoloration
but doesn't really look like spots. He has been visiting the CB
shrimp quite often.
Problem 3 = The Square-spotted Anthias has a fleshy tumor-like
growth on his left lower jaw. I figured Lymph and no big deal with
proper nutrition. He has had this since bringing him home from the
LFS but it was barely there at that time. It has gotten bigger but
does not seem to affect him. He has also been visiting the CB shrimp
when the Angel lets him. He otherwise looks and eats great. So does
the rest of his roommates except for the Clown and Angel.
I have searched for a few days but can't seem to decide what is
happening. I doubt that it is Amyloodinium or all of my tank mates
would be dead by now.
<Agreed>
I thought maybe Brooks but didn't think it would affect the Angel.
Except for the Anthias, it couldn't be Lymph with all the other
symptoms. I am leaning toward Crypt but I have read about so many
different diseases/symptoms that my head is swimming faster than my
Anthias at meal time. I didn't want to overreact so after
monitoring, I am planning to give the Clown and Angel a 10 minute FW
dip tomorrow.
<Mmm, don't know if I would>
This seems to help (maybe not cure) with quite a few inflictions.
Add the Angel to the QT tank. Monitor and take out the other fish to
be QT'd if necessary. I have two 10g tanks I can use and a 42g BF
tank if all fish need to be removed. The 42g has been up and running
for 1.5 years and does not have anything in it right now except some
bristle worms, CC, and live sand.
History = I restarted my 72g BF 17 weeks ago after it had been empty
for 1.5 years. Ran tank for empty for 8 weeks even though it was
cycled and the LR was cured. Purchased the Anthias 9 weeks ago from
LFS and did not add anything else for 4 weeks. All other fish were
in my 42g BF. Added both Clowns five weeks ago. Added Angel and Goby
3 weeks ago. Added blue Damsel four days ago which left the 42g
empty. Kept constant watch on water quality and did frequent water
changes (several times per week) during the moving period.
Water stats are:
NH3/NH4=0, NO2=0, NO3=40ppm,
<Way too high>
PH=7.9
<Mmm, too low>
and alkalinity between 180 and 300. Tested using Saltwater Master
test kit and Quick Dip test strips.
Tank mates are:
1 3" Imperator Angel (bigger tank soon) - With me for four months.
2 Percula Clownfish (1" and 2") - With me for three years.
1 4" Square-spotted Anthias - With me for nine weeks.
1 3" Orange-spotted Goby - With me for four months.
1 2" Blue Damsel - With me for five years. He was one of the
original fish. I don't like him much but he has been through a lot
with me (loyalty (-: ).
5 turbo snails
2 blue hermit
4 Nassarius snails
2 sand dwelling snails (I forgot the name but they are 2" long.)
1 Banded Coral shrimp
1 Tiger Pistol shrimp
1 purple tube Anemone
<A Cerianthus? Here's your trouble>
1 3.5" chocolate chip starfish
Diet = Omega One frozen mysis and brine shrimp and Marine Flakes
with garlic, SF Bay frozen Angel and Butterfly and Cyclops, and Kent
ZooPlex. I feed some flakes midday and 1.5 to two cubes frozen in
the evening. Cubes are soaked in Selcon or Vita-Chem (mostly
Selcon). I vary the cubes and only feed the brine on occasion. I
also have Omega One freeze dried brine that I use as a last resort
to get a fish to eat since all seem to love it.
Setup:
72g BF with 3.5" to 4" DSB with CaribSea Arag-Alive sand
Circulation = Hydor 3 and Hydor 1 Koralia power heads
48" bubble wand
Mechanical/chemical filtration = Magnum 350 Pro with Fluval
activated carbon, Kent nitrogen sponge and bio-wheels.
Bio-filtration = 20g converted wet/dry to sump/refugium with a 7"
DSB in a
9.5" x 10.5" area. It contains LR rubble, Chaetomorpha, and seeded
copepods
with an Aquaclear 10 power head. The skimmer, located on the intake
side,
is a Turboflotor 1000 Multi. In the main tank, there are 65lbs of
Fiji LR and 25lbs of Marshall LR.
Lighting = 2 21" 10,000k 65w compact fluorescents and 2 21" dual
blue
actinic 65w compact fluorescents
Recent activity= Replaced all lights two weeks ago. Used All-Glass
Aquarium silicone, HoldFast, Krazy glue, Quicktite glue and
Superglue
<These could have started a "cascading" event here... biochemically
triggering release of microbes, poisoning your system>
working on rock work and sump. I am hoping I did not poison the
water.
Forgive me the overly detailed email. What do you think is going on
and should I do as I was planning?
Thanks and kind regards, Ethan
<Please assure me re the Anemone (read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/tubeanem.htm
and the linked files above, particularly "Compatibility"...
Otherwise your water chemistry is dangerously "off"... See WWM re...
I would be moving all desired livestock to a "better place" if you
could, otherwise massive water changes, the use of chemical
filtrants.... per what is archived on WWM...
Bob Fenner>
Re: Something Amiss 4/24/2009
Hi Bob.
<Ethan>
Thank you for your quick response and words of wisdom!! Since I
found your site around 20 weeks ago, I have spent numerous hours
perusing the different postings. It is a world of knowledge. When I
restarted my 72g tank 17 weeks ago, I used your site as a basis for
setup (DSB, refugium, Chaetomorpha, LR, etc) so I could do it right
this time. I have not lost very many fish for the last five years
but I would rather lose none.
I am following your advice and doing large water changes. I had
already did a 15g change last night and will do a 35g change
tomorrow with PH adjusted with baking soda.
<Might need more... a source of carbonate...>
I had switched to Reef Crystals in hopes that it would help PH.
Should I remove the LR that has glue on it?
<Mmm, no... too late... it's already "cured", the volatile
(trouble-causing) parts gone>
I changed the carbon in the Magnum and wrapped the media container
with Poly Filter.
<Good moves>
Also, I removed the tube Anemone and put him in my 42g tank for
right now.
<Thank goodness... These are very toxic, problematical animals for
captive use... their "shedding" alone causes losses every day>
As I may have researched my other tank mates, I am ashamed to say I
did not research the Anemone or I would not have purchased it. My
wife loves them and I bought it on impulse three months ago.
<I see>
My Angel seems better. He is at least eating very well today. My 2"
Clown is about the same and still in the QT tank. I treated the 10g
QT with Melafix to try to help with the fin tear. I have high hopes
that they will pull through.
<I'd skip the "fix" and move the Clown back to the main display>
If I may, I have just a few other questions.
You mentioned (As I knew you would but when you're right, you're
right:-)) that my tank size was too small for the Angel. I have my
eye on a used 180g long tank for $700.00 and a used 340g tank for
$1500.00. Cost is an issue right now so could I get away with two
years in a 180g without shortening his lifespan?
<You could>
When it comes to tank sizes, is a smaller, longer tank better than a
larger, taller tank?
<Longer in most all cases>
I hope to see you and other crew members at the Orlando Reef
Caretakers Association Southeastern Reef conference on July 10. I
would love to hear you, Anthony, Scott F, and Eric speak.
<Ahh, a view you shall have>
Thanks for all that you and the rest of the crew do for us
aquarists. Ethan
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words, and sharing in general.
BobF>
Mystery deaths... "coral fish
allelopathy" 3-5-09 Well, it comes time for me to write back
in to you guys, for your well appreciated advise and support. The pic I have
attached is of my Stomatella varia, you identified it for me the first time I
saw it. I just happened to catch it out exploring for the first time since! I
thought you might like to see it (its gotten a little bigger!). You can use the
pic on your site if you want. <Thank you for this> To catch you up on
what I have; 5 1/2 month old 29g (40lbs live sand, 50lbs live rock) LPS tank
(Diaseris, Euphyllia, Trachyphyllia, Caulastrea, Micromussa, Dendrophyllia, and
Echinopora), a few small SPS (xenia, zoos, and mushrooms), and one Leather
(Nephthea). I am well aware of being over stocked with corals, and am in the
process now of researching new equipment for a 90g I will be purchasing this
spring. I believe I have the chemical warfare under control <I would NOT add
any more Cnidarian life here> with weekly 5g water changes, and am now using
Chemipure in my hob filter (I just started using this 4 weeks ago, and am not
sure how often I should change this out considering my tank load. <I would
"leap frog" the one unit of Chemi-Pure with a new one, leaving two units in at a
time... removing the one that is two months old...> I was changing my regular
carbon biweekly until trying this). I am also using an AquaC remora skimmer. My
corals are not my concern in this email. They are growing fast, and I actually
have a few new polyps forming on my Dendrophyllia! I should add, that along my
hitch hiker Stomatella, I have a few small hermits, an Emerald crab, a Turbo,
and Trochus snail, a Fire shrimp, and lots of hitch hiker stars which are all
doing well. My parameters are; SG 1024, PH 8.4, NH3/No2: 0, No3: 5. I have
had some trouble keeping Ca and KH stable, trying to keep KH at 10, and Ca at
440. The tank doesn't seem to like to stay that high, and tends to stay at KH
7-8, and Ca 400-420. My fish are my concern today, and after reading and
reading, I am writing. Since Dec, I have tried and tried to keep fish, and they
keep dying! <... Is almost certainly resultant, closely related at least, to
interactions between your disparate groups of "corals"> In Dec. I bought a
Royal Gramma, and a Banggai Cardinal. They each made it 2 weeks to the day,
finally at the bottom gasping for air, and dying quickly after. I let my tank go
fishless for 5 weeks, and bought another Gramma. He seemed to be doing well, so
a week later I bought another Banggai. My 2nd Banggai made it just under a week,
dying with a white string of death, and gasping for air. My Gramma was still
eating, so I tried another fish (a flametail Goby) In the middle of this, I
thought maybe there may be a parasite in the tank, catching my Gramma flashing
on the rock once. I read up on your website, and bought a Neon Goby, so he could
clean any thing up if there was. Well, my Gramma made it another 2 days, and
then my Flametail committed suicide! UGH!! Didn't he know that he couldn't swim
on my hardwood floor??? <Heeee, ohhhh> I even have a cover on my tank!
Well, I waited 2 more weeks, and was given another Banggai by my awesome LFS. He
had a hard time at first, not eating for 4 days, then he came around and was
eating like a monster, and all of a sudden, 2 weeks after he came home, white
string of death, gasping for air..... What none of us can figure out, is what
the heck???!!! <Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm or
perhaps better, use the in-place search tool with the terms: "coral fish
allelopathy"> My Neon, is still the happiest creature in the tank with his
goofy little face, now in my tank for 6 wks!!! <This group of fishes lives in
close association with "corals"... is much more tolerant of their activity>
His staying alive (which is great of course), is confusing all of us! I drip
acclimated each fish each between 45 min.s and 2 hours each, nothing works. One
thing though, I did lose a peppermint shrimp in the mix, but I honestly think he
got beat out of food and home by the fire shrimp who didn't seem happy to have
him around. (I will be buying a QT tank along with my 90g btw). I did have
some minor Cyanobacteria, that I siphoned out when the last Banggai was in the
tank, thinking that may the problem. <Good... might be an influence as well>
I also replaced my 50g HOB with a 70g HOB, and added a 3rd powerhead to the
tank. It didn't save him. This seems to happen after every water change (I am
using RO/DI), but I can't go without doing changes so what now? <Save up for
the 90... keep what you have now, try to be satisfied that you are doing the
best you can... and read> I never lost a fish setting up my Mbuna Cichlid
tank which has been running solidly for a year now, loosing these fish has been
heart breaking! <Good... a good thing to have such a response to loss> I
have an idea that you will be telling me not to add anything, but in the hopes
of being able to keep one or 2 more fish.... Sorry for the long winded
explanation, thanks again for your input!! Nancy <Thank you for sharing
Nancy. Your "situation" is not uncommon at all... With time going by, often
there is "better success" in introducing new life to such settings as yours...
In reading, going over the ppt presentation cited above... you'll encounter a
process of "Boris Karloff-ing" water back and forth twixt a main/display as
yours, and a quarantine system for new arrivals... "acclimating" them over some
weeks time... This may work here for introducing new fish livestock. Bob Fenner>
Dwarf lionfish poisoning tank
8/12/08 We had a fuzzy dwarf lionfish in our tank for about two months
and everything was going good, that is until this morning when we woke up to
find it dead. <Oooh> So we quickly removed it and thought everything would
be fine. When we returned home from work we noticed our other fish were not
looking so good so we tested the water and everything was good so we changed the
water to see if that would fix the problem while changing the water we found our
pink skunk clown and royal gamma were dead as well so we still thought changing
the water would fix it. <Might help...> Well it didn't are other fish
were still put them in a different tank <Ahh, very good> that we have and
they are doing much better. So I was wondering if the death of our lionfish
caused this <Very likely is implicated... along with perhaps whatever the
"cause" of the Lion loss was> or if it is something else and if it was the
lionfish how do we get are tank back up so our fish can return home. James
<I would change out a good deal of the water volume, vacuuming the gravel,
utilize a good volume of high-quality carbon in a bag, in your water/filter flow
path... wait a few days, add one of the fish back to test... Bob Fenner>
Who killed the Damselfish? - 07/19/08 Hello, <Fabrice> I
hope this email finds you all well <Thank you> I have a 20 gallons
tank with plenty of sand and live rocks, 5 blue fins damsels fish
<Yikes!> (tiny ones) the water conditions are optimal, 0 Nitrite,
traces of Nitrate less than 20. I also have a similar tank with just a
general star fish and a sea cucumber (black hairy fellow an inch long).
<... I wonder what species this is> I am setting up another tank a 40
gallon one to combine the 2 an give more space to the sea creatures.
<Ah, good> Today I just temporarily transferred the sea cucumber and
the starfish into the damselfish tank. Within 30 minutes 3 of the fish
die with awful skin burs the other 2 I took them out and placed them in
a kind of refuge. they are not going to make it they show the same
symptoms. <Something toxic...> I have these animals for over a
year...I never encounter anything like this before. I checked the water
after the accident and the condition are the same as stated above. The
Starfish and the sea cucumber are still fine grazing around the tank.
Any insides on who is culprit in this water version of Agatha Christie's
mass murder case. Thanks Fabrizio <I principally suspect the
Sea Cucumber... some have quite toxic defensive means, and "let loose"
when disturbed... as in, when moved. Please read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cukecompfaqs.htm I would remove this animal.
Bob Fenner>
Tank Wipeout Aftermath – 06/28/08 Nature Hello Masters of the
SaltWaterverse! <All bow down> Your site is terrific and your
answers are always very helpful and often amusing. <Heeeee!> It is
the most informative website I have found. <Okay, enough, my head
won't fit through the door> Have spent many, many nights up till the
wee hours reading the various posts to my husbands annoyance! He's not
an animal lover like me. I have a 47g tall tank. It has a live DSB with
3" of aragonite on the bottom, and 2" of oolite on top, 45 lbs live
rock, pc quad 50/50 lighting, 450 bio-wheel filter, SeaClone 100
skimmer, and 3 X Koralia 1 400gph powerheads for water movement. Is this
too much water movement? <Mmm, no> I have one in the back behind
the LR pointed down and one on either side at the front at different
heights pointed toward each other. The tank parameters are as follows:
calcium 420, KH 16 (and counting!), <Too high!> PH 8.5, Nitrate 0,
Nitrite 0, SP 1.021. <Mmm, too low> KH is very high due to the
following ( I think! ): tank was fully cycled, everything was perfect,
water parameters were perfect, had fish, corals etc. everything healthy,
happy and growing and doing great. Then, Wham! The sweet little sea
cucumber that the LFS sold me as a sand sifter died and poisoned
everything in the tank! <Argghhh! Too common> (hanging head in
shame over not researching this critter before purchase, have since
purchased Bob's book to smarten my brain up!) The only survivors were my
snowflake eel, 2 hermit crabs, 3 snails, 1 Blastomussa coral and 1 snake
polyp coral. I have since cleared out all the remains, did a 50% water
change, 3 X 20% water changes, disassembled and scrubbed the skimmer,
cleaned out the filter and added a second clean filter to it. Now I
cannot seem to get the KH down. I have tested each time I've done a
water change and the numbers are high each time ( stick test as well as
reef master liquid testing each time). I have purchased a new cleaning
crew and 5 damsels which are in the tank and doing fine, even the eel
seems fine at the moment, but time will tell. <Mmm... likely some
high tension amongst the damsels in this shape, volume system> With
the KH being so high I stopped the daily dose of calcium. <Good>
Any suggestions other than time, that will lower the KH? <Mmm,
yes... these are posted though> Asked at the LFS and they had no
clue. Also, did the Cuke explosion kill my live rock and copepods?
<Not likely altogether> I purchased more copepods since this happened
figuring they died as I want to get another Green Mandarin goby and want
to be ready for it when it arrives. <The Echidna should go... likely
most of the damsels as well...> Your advice is most appreciated and
definitely needed. Thanks a lot Crew! Cindy <See here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm scroll
downnnnnnnnnnnnn. Bob Fenner>
What went wrong!? Small SW tank troubleshooting 05/30/2008
Hello, <<Hey, Andrew with you today>> I have a 24 gallon aqua cube
which has recently become a 24 gallon death cube. In the beginning we
started out with a 12 gallon and moved to the 24 gallon, in recent
months everything has been great. We had a good share of soft corals and
live rock. In the tank we had an orange diamond goby, (Moby the goby), a
Blenny (Lenny the blenny), a black and white striped damsel (pokey),
Clown fish (primo) and half yellow half purple fish(mystery). We also
had some crabs, 1 porcelain, 1 emerald and a few hermit. We had a turbo
snail and a starfish and black sea urchin. Everything was great,
levels were good and everyone was happy. <<Ok>> Then it happened.
My wife and I went to a new aquarium store to look around, we were ah
struck when we came across this slug, a Nudibranch, he is purple with
yellow horns and flames out his back. <<Ah yes, could be a few
different species of Nudi, please do identify from here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nudibran.htm >> We were told they are easy
to care for and that they ate sponges, something we didn't have.
<<Yes, this is true. All have their own specialist diet>> They sold
us a light blue sponge also saying they were easy to take care of, just
drop it in the tank and make sure it doesn't get exposed to air. So we
got home and acclimated the slugs (we also purchased a lettuce
Nudibranch) and put the blue sponge in our tank. This was on last
Sunday. <<Ok>> Everything seemed to be happy, then my wife came
home from work on Tuesday, called me and told me something was wrong,
the soft corals were shriveled up and hadn't come out and 2 of the fish
were dead (mystery and pokey). All the other fish were breathing heavy
and sitting on the bottom of the tank. The blue sponge appeared to be
dying, the blue was falling off and u could see the white spongy
skeleton underneath. I immediately pulled the sponge out and tossed it
along with the dead fish. I tested the water and the nitrates were
showing 160ppm! <<Yikes>> I also tested the ammonia but it was
fine. I immediately did a 10 gallon water change per a friend. The
nitrates seemed to have dropped to around 80ppm, the next day (last
night) when I got home from work (after picking up some supplies at our
normal aquarium store) 80% of our soft corals were dead, Moby ,Lenny,
black sea urchin, starfish and turbo snail were also dead. I pulled all
of them out, did another 10 gallon water change, added charcoal and a
bag of something (white) that is supposed to absorb nitrates and
nitrites. This morning the water seemed crystal clear, Primo was still
alive along with the Crabs. I did another water test last night after
the water change and the nitrate was 40ppm. I hear that the blue
sponge releases a deadly neurotoxin when it dies and that is what wiped
everything out. Im not sure what spiked the nitrates. Any insight?
<<Not "usually" blue sponges which release this, more so with some red
sponges. Do not rule out the possibility of the Nudibranch releasing
toxins. Please do read page 3 of the above linked web page on
Nudibranchs. The spike in nitrates will be down to the death in the
tank, ammonia --> Nitrite --> Nitrate. I would be tempted to remove the
Nudibranch, return to the store>> John C. Curry <<Thanks for the
questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Mystery deaths 9/7/07 I work at a LFS, I have a customer
whom has lost several fish. Water parameters are all great, Nitrates
less than 5ppm, .5 on the phosphates, <Soluble? This is high> 8.2
for the ph, and currently a Fire shrimp and some hermits are enjoying
life, health as ever. After there initial losses they waited several
weeks, then replaced there fish, 48 hrs and they were floaters. While
testing of their water (everything great) they admitted to not
performing a water change in 6 months. I suggested two large water
changes, with a day in between. In addition to a 72hr dark period to
clear up some Cyano. <This is likely the culprit here> After
waiting two weeks, in that time the Cyano. all but disappeared, water
chemistry looked even better, they took home a Orange spot sand sifter
and a yellow tail damsel. The fish lasted five days, st least the sand
sifter, the Damsel is M.I.A. presumed dead though. I hope you can offer
some guidance on our situation. I am at a loss, and would like to help
them. Maybe some parasite which does not require a fish host to complete
it's life cycle is lurking within their tank. I hope you have a fresh
perspective on this problem. Let me know if I left out any pertinent
info. Thanks for what you do, James. <I do suspect a latent/residual
toxicity from the long-standing water and BGA... If it were me/mine, I'd
have these folks dump the water, bleach all... and re-set-up... Please
read and have them read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnornart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
What happens within the tank when an Anemone dies? 12/20/07 Hi
Crew, <Hello Bobby, Brenda here!> I have a question about
Condylactis Anemones. <Okay!> If I were to buy a Condylactis, and
it happen to die (obviously not hoping, just sort of planning ahead),
what would happen within the tank? Would this pretty much crash my tank?
<It is a definite possibility, especially in smaller tanks.> I'm new
to anemones so any information about what happens after their death
would help. <They can fall to pieces, and are very hard to get out of
the water in one piece. You may need to siphon a lot of it out. It
smells horrible, and will cause an ammonia spike. You will need to do
several large water changes over the next few days. Having a supply of
premixed saltwater is always recommended for emergencies. I recommend
researching their care several months in advance so you can eliminate
the chances of it dying. More information here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
> Thank you very much, Bobby <You’re welcome! Brenda>
Help requested. Reef toxic event... Holothuroids? Algae?
02/17/07 G'day Bob, Loved the Conscientious Keeper & sell it
regularly in store.... <Ah, good> But flattery is not what has
led me to correspond. I was wondering if it would be possible to
pick your brains. <Only have a mite left... but go ahead> I
realize you must get no end of requests, but I am stumped at the moment,
and could really use some help. I am a retailer in Australia, been
keeping marines for 20+ & reef for 15 or more, but I have a problem tank
at the moment that I can't get a grip on... The tank in question is
a 5 * 2 * 2 1/2 foot reef with deep sand bed (crushed marble chip) 3"
deep closed loop circ system, (6000 LPH) main return pump (6000 LPH)
(rainbow lifeguard quiet ones in both cases) One 2,300 LPH powerhead
mounted close to surface of water. Nutrient export via a Turboflotor
1000 skimmer ( on for ~14 hrs a day, off for a couple of hours while
dosing supplements) <Good technique> Bare sump no trickle
Tank has a 25 litre refugium <Am sure we both wish this were larger>
fed from main outflow line from tank, & fuge has been lit 24 / 7 in
past, but lights are off now. (more on this later) Tank is
equipped with a chiller, and runs at a constant 25 deg C. Tank
contains approx 125 kg liverock (270 lb) Various corals ranging
from Sarcos to fungi's, Duncanopsammia, Scolymia, Turbinarias, Morphs,
and until recently a 14 year old Tridacna (sadly departed but not
related to this story directly) All Supplements used are Seachem,
apart from one liquid coral food that we use from a different
manufacturer. Main aquarium lit by 2 * 250w 13,000 k halides Fuge
is lit using a 24 watt 50 /50 actinic 10k PL power compact . Tank
usually runs at...... P.H. 8.0 - 8.2 SG 1.024 KH 9 - 11
dKH nh3 0.3 - 0.5 ( not 100% happy with the zero on the test kit
though, Hagen ammonia kit in use) No2 0
no3 Currently ~ 5ppm but sometimes as high as 10 Ca++ 420 today,
targeting 450 as a rule. PO4 under .5 ppm today. Additives
used: Reef builder for KH buffering Reef buffer when necessary for
P.H. (Not frequent) Reef magnesium Reef
strontium Reef Iodide and Reef Plus ( which is a multi vitamin / amino
acid supp. Magnesium strontium & Iodide are not tested for currently,
Seachem's basic dose rates are used. W/changes of 175 litres (from
750) performed when NO3 is on the rise So much for the overview,
here's the problem. Corals look good, My fish keep dying.
<Mmmm> Around 3 months ago, a sudden procession of deaths took out
Zebrasoma flavescens Lo vulpinus //Synchiropus splendidus//
Amphiprion ocellaris ( over 8 years in captivity ) :'( Rock hopper
blenny (Salarias sp.) * 3 in rapid succession <Something toxic,
amiss... that doesn't affect Cnidarians> and also during the past
few months all cucumbers (H. edulis predominantly but not exclusively)
seem to have vanished, though a number of strombid shell are still
active in turning over the sand bed. <... a clue here> I have
saved one half of the clown pair which is currently in a hospital tank,
but there is a comet grouper C. altivelis which due to difficulty in
removal has sat in the tank apparently unaffected for the entire time.
I placed a Sailfin tang Z. veliferum into the tank 4 days ago,
Dead overnight I placed a Salarias blenny suspended in a restricted
net so the animal could not eat anything from within the tank and would
be protected from any predation (none suspected), Dead overnight
I have had a (I'm pretty sure) Dinoflagellate bloom in the refugium on
& off over the last few months but the lighting on the fuge has been off
for a number of weeks, & there is no trace of anything macro or micro
algae wise... (coralline growth in main tank is excellent by the way) I
am running out of thoughts, and any steers in any direction would be
greatly appreciated if you can spare the time. Thanks in advance,
Bruce. <My primary suspect here is the Sea Cucumbers... they can be
extremely toxic to fish life, leaving other phyla unscathed... But the
mention of the Diatom bloom... brings to mind the possibility that an
algae toxicity might be at root... In either case, a very large water
change and the use of chemical filtrants is the route I would take here
(a kilo of activated carbon, perhaps a couple of pads of PolyFilter)...
and the careful testing (in a week or so) of the water/system with a
tough fish... perhaps a couple of damsels. Unfortunately, as of yet,
there are no good, inexpensive means to test for such random
toxicities... but I can see this in the coming years. Cheers, Bob
Fenner>
Dead puffer with cut open side; Tetrodotoxin release
? – 04/16/07 Hey, How are you all today? <Hi. Don’t know
about the others, but I’m ok.> Well last week my puffer died due to
ich. I tried everything to get rid of the darn parasite, but nothing has
helped. <Sorry for your loss. Much too common with porcupine
puffers.> I worked up to see my porcupine puffer dead. I couldn't
recognize the fish. The skin was off and his under side was cut open
(yes I saw his stomach!!). I don't believe my eel attacked it, because
my eel would maybe be dead due to toxins. I'm guessing my starfish tried
to eat it, but left it alone after it tasted the puffer. <Not
necessarily. Moray eels are resistant to several similar toxins, so,
although I do not have specific information about them and Tetrodotoxin
(marine puffer toxin), it seems well possible for moray eels to eat
puffers. However, in your case I suggest he tried to puff (as they often
do before they die) and his connective tissue (weak due to whatever
reason) and skin cracked. I have seen such cases or/and the results in
tanks with no other fish.> My question is: did toxins release from
the puffer into the water? <Improbable. Tetrodotoxin does not
dissolve well in saltwater. In contrast, boxfish (not puffers) can
secrete ostracitoxin (informal name for the still unnamed boxfish
poison), which does dissolve in saltwater. To be on the safe side you
may want to filter with fresh carbon.> It seems like my lionfish
wants to eat, but he can barely open up his mouth to grab the food. Any
thought? <Watch him. Could be lock jaw, which in general is supposed
to be caused by an unvaried diet or vitamin deficiency. Could also be a
sign of an infection with the parasite your puffer had. See if he is
breathing heavy to confirm.> Oh, I'm also selling the aquarium setup
if your interested! Thanks! Ben. <Take care. Marco.>
Hebrew Cone (Conus ebraeus), Poisonous? Yes! Degree of toxicity... ?
5/13/07 Hello crew, <Hi Jana, Mich here.> I am trying to
find on the Internet how poisonous the Conus ebraeus is? <Well it
does kill it's prey, primarily Eunicid and Nereid Polychaete worms, by
injecting them with conotoxin, a potent neurotoxin that disturbs the ion
channels involved in neuromuscular transmission, typically resulting in
paralysis.> I found information on other cone shells but
not on this particular one. <Yes, I too am having difficulty finding
anything specific to this particular species. There are more than 600
members of the Conidae family and only 30 documented cases of
envenomations by Conus in humans, some resulting in death. The most
toxic is reported to be Conus geographus, though C textile, and C
marmoreus are also associated with an increased of mortality. I have
been unable to find any reports describing the degree of toxicity of the
conotoxin associated with C. ebraeus, but it is certainly something to
take seriously and the effect of the conotoxin would likely vary between
individuals. Also worth noting is current research on members of this
family for the treatment of pain and conditions such as Parkinson's.>
Is it found in Australia and how poisonous is it. <The distribution
of Conus ebraeus occurs in the Indo-west Pacific and Eastern Australia
as far south as Sydney. Many thanks, kind regards, Jana. <You're
welcome. Mich>
Nudibranch/Anemone Slime Upsetting Fish? Yep! 6/6/07 Hello,
<Greetings, Mich with you today.> I had a quick question about the
effects of Nudibranch or anemone slime on fish. I added a rock flower
anemone, a couple Cerith snails, and a lettuce Nudibranch (I got a bit
of hair algae for him to get rid of) into my tank today and while
acclimating them and adding them into the tank a great deal of the slime
they had produced while in their bags went into the water. <Yikes!>
I tried to remove some of it but couldn't get it all. Anyway, about 2
hours after adding in these items my four fish (2 true Percs, a bicolor
blenny, and a purple Pseudochromis) began to scratch their faces/ gills
on rocks. They then stopped for a while but began to scratch again a
few hours later. <Likely a reaction to the toxins introduced into the
system.> I have had a problem in the past with ich but I made sure to
quarantine all the fish for 6 weeks using hypo salinity and left the
main tank free of fish as well. The hypo salinity seemed to work as all
the fish returned to a relaxed state and their symptoms of ich went away
so after their long quarantine period they were reintroduced into the
main tank. It has been 2-3 months since this outbreak and they have
shown no signs of ich since. I have also added no new fish into the tank
since then. <Ok.> Basically, my question is whether or not their
sudden scratching could be from the introduction of these new inverts
and the slime they produced during their long journey from the fish
store or if the fish have ich or some other parasite infestation again
and just be chance they didn’t begin to feel it until 2 hours after I
introduced the new items? <Probably a result of the chemical hazards
added to your tank.> After testing my water my results were normal.
<Ok.> In your opinion, should I prepare for a possible parasite
infestation or wait and observe the fish before acting? <I would wait
and observe, though this stress response can weaken the immune system
allowing parasitic organisms a more favorable foothold.> Also, do
fish ever scratch on rocks to mark territory? <Mmm, not that I'm
aware of.> I am guessing the answer is no but it was worth asking
because my fish seemed to all scratch on the rocks around the same time
and then suddenly stop almost in unison. <Again, no doubt a response
to environmental stress. You should add an extra bag of carbon ASAP and
consider a larger water change.> Thanks for any advice you can give
me and sorry if this has been answered before. <Hope this helps.
Mich>
Marine Question/s... mis-stocked SW, no Q, mis-treated, Crypt infested,
poisoned... – 07/24/07 Hello. I'm new to the sport of
Marine Fish keeping. I have a 55G, with a protein skimmer rate for up to
70G, a large powerhead, and dual bio wheel filter. 140 pounds of live
rock, and 80 pounds of live sand. I have 3 clowns, <All of the same
species I hope/trust> 2 chromis, 1 yellow tang, 1 Naso tang <Not
enough room for this genus/species here> and 1 yellow boxfish.
<Do read re this last... on WWM> Also had about 12 hermit crabs, and
10 snails. The boxfish was the last addition. Everything was going
perfect, all levels at 0, then suddenly that changed......the boxfish
had a spot on it's back where it was still yellow, but more pale, the
LFS toll me that was because he was getting older and he was changing
colour. Turns out it was the start of ick, or something? <Maybe>
Anyway, within a few days he was covered in ick, which transferred to
all my other fish. I tried Kick-Ick <Worthless... and you added this
nonsense to your main system... Mistake> for 7 days which did
nothing, I had to turn my protein skimmer off to use the stuff, and my
ammonia went crazy, up to 4.0 or higher! <... toxic> I stopped
with that treatment after some fish died (the box and Naso) Put the
protein skimmer on, got my levels back to normal, then started copper
a/p LFS. Well the instructions on the bottle were terrible, and I ended
up overdosing. I quickly did water changes till I got the dose back
down. All my bristle worms came out and a lot of them died on the sand.
I treated with copper for 2 days <?> at 0.25, but everything else
died except the yellow tang and 1 chromis. The yellow tang has a small
red spot under it's side but no sign of ick, same with the chromis. So I
stopped the copper, <...> put my carbon back in to remove the
copper because it was killing everything. So now I'm left with my tank
with a bunch of dead stuff (took out whatever I could, some worms can't
get at them unless I totally tear down everything). Known alive are 1 5"
bristleworm, 2 large hermit crabs, 3 small, 2 snails, 1 yellow tang and
1 chromis. My water levels are back in check. Where do I proceed from
here? I'm scared of getting more fish and them dying on me again. I
don't know what my next step is? Help!? <With what?> ps. I
don't buy from the LFS that sold me the boxfish anymore! Aging spot my
A@@! I don't get a chance to look at your website all the time, any
chance you could e-mail me back what you think my next move is? Thanks
so much, your site is amazing!!!!!!!!!! <Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/parasittksfaqs.htm and the linked files
above... Bob Fenner>
Blenny Death Question –
07/18/07 Hello, We have an office tank 90 gallon. Although I
know a lot about the tank we have a professional come in and do water
changes etc. ... Last week we could not find the Blenny fish and
never did and then 3 days later the flame angel died. We take the fish
out as soon as we see them dead but were unable to find the Blenny. All
the water chemistry and temperature were in normal range but all the
fish began having problems, ick and dying off. My question is could the
Blenny have spiked the tank upon dying? Also we had an explosion of tiny
white sand stars (I don't know what they are exactly) come out and they
were everywhere after we noticed the flame dead. We had 4 or 5 small
fish die and there are 3 left to go. (Probably tonight) They are not
doing good. We cant figure it out and wondered if it could be the
Blenny who polluted the tank. Thanks for your help! Nancy
<Greetings Nancy, Jim here. A 90 gallon tank is more than large
enough to withstand the death of your blenny without spiking even a
little bit. Something else is at work here, and has caused not only the
death of your blenny, but the deaths that followed. Ick (C. irritans)
has been introduced into your system somehow, and at this point, without
more information, I'm leaning towards this pathogen as the cause of your
problems - not the result of some other problem. Have you added any
fish recently? Are you in the habit of quarantining new arrivals? Give
me a bit of information as to how you have stocked this tank. Cheers
Jim >
Worst case scenario. Vacation Wipe Out, Restarting 7/24/07 Hi Bob
and crew, <Hello> My tank of 1 year old got wiped out and I don’t
know what to do. Please help!!! <Will try> Here is the situation…
I went on vacation and left the fish to a nice lady to care for them.
The saddle back puffer died (after being harassed by a pair of tomato
clowns) shortly after I left and no one was there to remove him until at
least 24 hours later. Apparently, the dead puffer released its toxin
that killed most everything else in the tank. <Does happen fairly
often.> When the lady showed up the next day, she was horrified by the
scene and didn’t know what to do. All the dead fish was left in the tank
for another day until she finally tracked me down and got
instructions to remove them. By that point, the few survivors gone belly
up also. There are over 30 casualties all together. <Wow> She removed
all the dead fish she could finds and I asked her to leave the system
running in the hope that at least the live rocks could be saved. I
came home late last night after two weeks of vacation. The tank is full
of algae, but otherwise completely lifeless. Everything is dead,
including anemones, starfish, snails and corals. <Welcome back.> I
couldn’t even find any copepods in the gravel anymore. <Probably a few
did make it.> Additionally, a few dead fish been stuck behind some rock
works while decomposing for two weeks. There appears to be a white
fungus that cocoons the rotted fish under water. Needless to say, I am
totally grossed out. Interestingly, the little Seachem ammonia indicator
tag is showing a safe level of ammonia in the water. <Shows you the
value of those indicators.> I feel really bad for the lady and worst
for the fish. Incidentally, one of the filters sprung a leak last year
while she was taking care of my tank. Water continuously leaked all
over the hardwood floor and she had to mop it all up and did repairs
while she had me on the phone. Poor thing! I am sure she’ll run away the
next time I mention the word “vacation”. <Hope you got her something
nice.> Anyway, here are my questions: 1. Could a little Toby
puffer be so full of toxin as to have wiped out the tank? <Yes> 2.
After the cleanup of dead fish, do I need to do anything more then just
changing the water and filters material? <Probably need lots of water
changes to get the nutrient levels back in line, but nothing beyond
that.> 3. Are the live rocks and sand dead/poisoned? <Can still be
used.> 4. Do I need to cycle the tank again? <Is cycling now I bet.>
Thanks! -Hoshing <You are starting from scratch here, need to
recycle the tank, add a few pounds of new live rock to reseed everything
and give it some time to get back up and running. Now I need to go call
the women watching my tank while I'm here in Hawaii.> <Chris>
My entire 52g tank wiped out - Anemone Toxins - 7/26/07 <Hi
Kimmy> I have 3 saltwater aquariums: one 52g, a 40g hexagon, and a
small hospital tank.<Okay> Recently, something went through and wiped
out my entire tank. <I’m so sorry to hear that!> Not sure what it was,
and hoping I might find some answers from you all. <Hope so!> My 52g
was set up as a non-aggressive fish only tank. I had a Valentini puffer,
2 mated Clowns, a Longnose butterfly, a blue tang <needs a larger tank>,
a Hawkfish, and a high hat fish in there. I also had a pink tip Haitian
anemone, a sea slug, cleaner shrimp, and a red legged hermit crab.
My problems seem to have started with getting a chocolate chip starfish.
I know that sounds crazy, <Not at all> but that's when they started. It
was a very large star with quite an appetite. Needless to say, it ate my
sea slug, and part of my anemone. <Yep, chocolate chip
stars/Protoreastor nodosus are attractive, but have big appetites – for
just about anything.> Thinking that the anemone could regenerate
itself, we left it in there. <Risky> It seemed for the first day to do
just that, but it soon after, just died. <Recovery depends on how much
damage was done, overall health prior to, and would need pristine water
conditions.> It shriveled up and turned to mush. <Not good at all> We
removed the starfish and put him into my hospital tank, by itself,
hoping to save anything else from being eaten. Apparently, the shrimp we
were feeding it wasn't enough. <Agreed> It was then that my fish
began dying. First to go was the Longnose butterfly. Next was the blue
tang. These were followed by the Hawkfish, the mated <clown> pair (one
and then the other), and lastly the high hat. The only one that didn't
die was the Valentini puffer. <Tough little dude> He was taken out and
placed in with the starfish in the hospital tank because I thought there
must be something wrong with the water in the 52g. <Definitely> Needless
to say, the Valentini ate and killed my starfish. <The sea star wasn’t
the only creature with a big appetite> I swear if it's not one thing
it's another! <It sure seems that way sometimes, doesn’t it, but hang in
there!> We then placed the cleaner shrimp and the red legged hermit crab
over into the hospital tank...woke up this morning, and the darn
Valentini ate my cleaner shrimp too! I found that really strange because
they were both the best of friends in the 52g. Weird huh? <You don’t
mention what size hospital tank they were all in, but considering a
puffer’s appetite, if it’s pretty small tank/not a lot of hiding spaces,
then that’s not too surprising.> Anyhow, the water in the 52g has
been tested repeatedly and tests fine. <even ammonia?> The tank looks
great. Not sure what could have killed all of my fish. I do have a
theory on this, let me share it with you. <Sure> All of this seems to
have started after the star killed my anemone. <Yes indeed> I read
someplace that the anemone has some sort of ink <?> in them which is
poisonous. <Hmmm, nothing ink-like in an anemone> Do you think that
maybe when the star ate the anemone, it released some of that poison
into the water which could have killed all those fish? <I do believe
that the death of the anemone was the factor here. Unfortunately, when
one dies, it can pollute a tank very quickly.> Should we have removed
it right away? < In hindsight (always 20/20!), we’d both say “Yes!”,
but it’s understandable that you’d have wanted to give it a chance to
survive (especially if you were unaware of the possible consequences of
it dying). The way I see a situation like this is that although it’s
very hard on an already stressed anemone to remove it, if you think it’s
failing, it’s best to take it out. It’s just not worth the risk.> It
seemed as if all the fish who died had a really hard time breathing
prior to their passing. <Have read of the same thing happening following
anemone deaths.> The one who had it the worst was the blue tang...it
even turned colors. <Yep, majorly stressed> I felt so bad about that!
<Understandable!> I couldn't think of what to do to help it. We put it
into the hospital tank <That's what you do!> and it seemed to help, but
not much, and it died anyhow. <I’m so sorry. It must have been past
the point of no return, and/or couldn't deal with the additional stress
of capture/relocation.> The fish who died all seemed a bit
disoriented and all acted strange prior to their passing. Have you ever
heard of anything like that? <Not about being disoriented, but
acting strangely, labored breathing - yes.> Any suggestions? <As
for anemones in general, as stated earlier, they can cause real problems
in a tank when they die. That's the sort of thing that's good to know
ahead of time, and where researching the animals you plan to keep comes
in handy. A complication with anemones is that with all that soft
tissue, once they do die, decomposition can progress pretty rapidly.
Please see WWM FAQ’s for more on incidents like this (starting here):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemhlthfaq6.htm > Should we empty the
tank, clean it, and start completely over with it? <You can if you
want, but I don’t think it’s necessary. I’d do several (at least three)
large (at least 50%) water changes, run carbon, monitor water chemistry,
and let the tank go fallow for about a month.> Is there something I
can put in the water to make it ok for fish? <Unfortunately, no> Tests
o.k.'s I dunno...unless it's that poison from the anemone. <My guess as
well> Can't think of what else it would be. I hate thinking about having
to empty it completely and start over when there is so much money into
that tank already, <Agreed> it's been cycled and looks great. One
thing I noticed too, after the star ate the anemone, the tank became so
clean. <Hmmm> Prior to, we had a brown algae problem which was being
handled by the turbo snails and the sea slug, the cleaner shrimp, and
the red legged crab...but then BAM white clean. Almost like everything
was bleached clean, but no bleach was near that tank. I can assure you
that. Weird huh? <Mmmm, yes. Not sure what the deal was there>
Another thing that caught my attention, and I thought maybe could have
started this: During one of our last visits to the fish store, we picked
up some more turbo snails for the tank. One of the snails had some green
stuff on its back which we assumed was algae and thought not a lot
about. That green stuff turned into bubbles of sorts. It looked really
gross. Any idea what that stuff might have been? <Was it slimy? It
sounds like Cyano/BGA - tons of info at WWM about this stuff.> Could it
have been responsible for killing off my tank? <No> Be aware, during
all of this, my water levels showed great. so I just haven't a clue what
happened. <I’m surprised that the ammonia levels weren’t elevated, but
??> Please help, Kimmy <Hope the above info helps. Again, sorry
for your loss! Take care - Lynn) Dead Cowfish
- 04/23/2006 Hello, <Hi Justin with you today.> I had
a Small Long horned Cowfish (1 inch) die Sometime last night. This
morning I woke up to find My Yellow tang breathing really heavily. My
clowns and Gramma seem OK right now. I did a 10% water change. Should I
move all My fish to a Quarantine? It is only a ten gallon since I am 13
And don't have very much extra money. <Your cowfish probably
released its tetradotoxin poison when it died. Please be VERY careful,
and do a water change of about 30% of the tank. Wear gloves as
well. Continue to do 30% water changes for the week and you should be
fine. If your fish seems even more ill, do a 80% water change ASAP.>
Great Site Chad <Write back and let us know if you need more
help.> <Justin (Jager)>
Emp. Angel not eating -dying fish from a fan?- - 5/7/2006
Hello, <Mike> First I admittedly made a terrible mistake in
collecting from my local beach (San Diego) a small gorgonian fan and
added it to my established (2yrs) fish only tank with the following:
125 Gallons with Live Rock and Live Sand. 1) Russell's Lion
(8in) 1) Clown Trigger (6in) 1) Fiji Puffer (3in) 1) Cow
Fish (5in) 1) Zebra Moray (20 in) 1) Yellow Tang (deceased)
1) Christmas Tree Wrasse (deceased) <Too many fish for this
system> 1 month after introducing the fan to my tank the yellow
tang went on a hunger strike and passed away. Shortly after, I
acquired a 4 inch Emperor Angel. 3 Weeks ago the wrasse also would
not eat and passed away last week. While the other fish still
appear to have appetites, the Angel has now stopped eating. <I
do NOT believe this is from the fan you added to the tank, while it
may have had contaminants and or pollutants on it, Your stocking
list of fish seems to be the culprit here. You have one of the most
nasty tempered triggers maybe even the nastiest fish period (the
clown trigger) in with a cowfish, one of the few fish in the world
that not only carries Tetrodotoxin (the most potent toxin on the
planet) but the cowfish can release that poison as a deterrent to
predators or due to stress. In a home system such as yours, it can
kill everything.> Could the fan, now back in the Pacific, have
been the culprit? Bacteria, internal parasites? The angel has gone
a little over a week without eating. He still appears to be active,
color is good, no noticeable rubbing on the sand or rocks, no
visible signs of disease (As with the tang and wrasse). I have
tried Angel formula 1 and 2, frozen krill, flakes and brown algae.
<My hunch is that the clown trigger is either harassing the angel,
or harassing the cowfish and has made the cowfish release enough
poison to seriously injure the other fish. I would pull the clown
trigger immediately and re-home it to another tank, and do the same
with the cowfish. If you do not want to re-home them, setup a tank
for the clown trigger by itself, and one for the cowfish by itself
as well. If you decide not to move the cowfish, you will still need
a 240 gallon or bigger tank to handle the puffer (gets 12-15") the
lionfish (18"+ without fins and is very venomous) the 15+" angel and
the 8-10" cowfish. The clown trigger will hit 2 -15" or more as
well and will become a holy terror to tankmates as it ages.> My
water parameters are .22 SPG, Nitrites 0, Ammonia 0, Nitrates b/n 20
- 40 ppm. I maintain a strict regiment in conducting 12% water
changes every other week. Is there anything that I can do to help
this little guy? I started with a 30% water change yesterday and
gave the angel a fresh water dip for 4 min.s. Please advise.
<Try setting up another tank for the angel to live stress free for
now, and remove the aggressors as above to ensure it is not
harassed.> Thank you, Mike Ferrante <Please re-home and
remove fish, as this mix will result in death for more if not all of
your fish.> <Justin (Jager)> -Dying fish from a fan part
2- - 05/09/06 Thank you for your quick reply. What
I had left out of my previous email was that I had noticed some long
white feces, which from what I have read in Mr Fenner's book, could
indicate an internal parasite. This is what triggered my suspicion
that it might be something internal. Could toxins do that? My
local fish store suggested that I use Pimafix? I'm a bit reluctant
to try chemicals right now. <Yes internal parasites do seem to
be one issue here, There is a food supplement that is parasite
medicine, but it may be hard to get the angel to eat it. But you
should dose it for them ASAP.> I will take your advise and move
the Angel immediately to another tank so he can recover. I
purchased an all inclusive and very basic "beginner tank" 10 gallons
to use for quarantine. Would this, and what I suspect comes with a
very basic filter, be sufficient for a few weeks? <Do daily
water changes of at LEAST 70% from your main tank while the angel is
in the ten.> I assume that I should use water from my main tank
to supply it? <Correct> Last but not least, when I do remove
the Cow, Trigger and Lion, could you give me a list of options and
quantity that I may want to consider for re-stocking. I'd like to
keep the angel, assuming that he will pull through. <Most
wrasses, tangs, gobies, a butterfly fish, Anthias, there are quite a
few choices. please see WWM and www.fishbase.org for what's
available.> Thank you for your time and help. Mike Ferrante
<Justin (Jager)> |
Ptereleotris
evides (black Dartfish) immunity to Porcupine Poison?
7/16/06 Hi, <Hello there> the question I have is short,
the reason is not. I will add the reason just in case I am on the wrong
track. <Okay> Q. Having trawled around the Web & your as always
excellent site I cannot confirm a suspicion, If the Black Dartfish
(Ptereleotris evides) is known at all, to be resilient or immune to
the Porcupine Puffer's toxin (released when stressed)? <Mmm, don't
know> The reason for this question is that this morning I woke up to
a tank of dead fish. The porcupine puffer was stressed but the two black
Dartfish were fine. <Interesting... could be that they were the
smallest... had/have the largest percentage gill surface area... more
sedentary/less need for dissolved oxygen...> Tank: 90ukgal - 3
year old Filters Fluval 404 on spray bar, Fluval 304 & LAC 828
Vecton UV15 sterilizer Deltec MCE 600 (considering changing due to
bearing noise problem) Lid houses 2 T5 lights & Marine blue Live
rock, 3/4" to 1" sand, no corals RO changes Water quality spot
on bar 1mg/l Phosphate (before water change) Fish established 1- 3
Years: 5" Pink tail Trigger - RIP Cleaner Wrasse - RIP 4.5"
Blue Cheek Goby - RIP Two 4" Monos - RIP 4" Sailfin Tang - RIP
5" Birdnose Wrasse in final transition from female to male - RIP 5"
Porcupine Puffer - now RIP Two 3.5"-4" Black Dartfish - fine (now,
just incase, in other marine tank) Circumstance: On light
feeding last night I noticed two light rocks out of position (dislodged)
- so I repositioned. This morning I awoke & found all but the puffer
& Dartfish dead (Pinktail was floating). At 80 degrees F & a topped up
water level to the spray bar, <He's likely the one who was
"bothering" the puffer> I initially wondered about oxygen
depravation. <Me too> After a couple of phone calls once the
dead were removed, I setup a hasty water change & did 30% approximately
40 min.s later. <Good move> As my one available QT tank was set
for freshwater due to an ongoing ammonia problem in my Discus tank (due
to a piece of wood in the inlet tube of my Eheim Wet/Dry making it run
low - still awaiting it to cycle as do daily water changes) & the other
QT tank is rearing toadfish; I shot down to my LFS and got some more
carbon media. When I left the Porcupine was still stressed, when I
got back he was slightly puffed up & RIP. On removal he was coated in
slime (I assume another toxin release) & the same rocks were dislodged
again. <Strange about the rocks...> So far I assume a toxin
release (some of the RIP fish were agape - & fairly quick after feeding
last night as two out of 4 defrosted frozen shrimp were still left; a
big oddity), but to my amazement the Dartfish were fine/happy???
Taking no chances (I do anything to help my fish) I transferred them
into my reef tank (open topped with 6" rise above the water, I will be
watching for jumps till I can be sure of the other tank). <Good>
I am told the carbon should clear up the toxin now, but still wonder
about the tough little Black Dartfish. <Me too> Any input would
be greatly welcome/appreciated. Ed <It may well be that
microdesmids are more "immune" to tetradotoxins... or perhaps it was/is
something to do with gaseous exchange at play here. If it were me, mine,
I would likely change about all the water out of the contaminated
system... for general purposes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Ptereleotris
evides (black Dartfish) immunity to Porcupine Poison? 7/18/06
Hi Bob Fenner, <Ed> Cheers for the reply. Water is being changed
+ new carbon (again) & new PolyFilter (told it would be a good idea -
certainly no harm). <Agreed. Bob Fenner> Thanks Ed
Dead Anemone Residue...Mushrooms Vacating - 07/03/04 Hi
Guys, <Hello Nancy> I had a medium bubble anemone for over a
year who was home to a tomato clown. A few months ago it moved to the
underside of a rock and slowly withered away and left a cottony white
layer where it's base had been. Not knowing if the anemone would grow
back from this I left it in place. I now have a large covering of this
on an adjacent rock and the resident mushrooms are vacating the rock
(which they used to cover). Is this something I want to eradicate or is
it a friendly unknown species who has taken up residence. This is a 75
gal tank with a deep sand bed that has been up and running without
incident for 2+ years, (initially set up in 98 but had a severe algae
problem and I had to tear down, scrub and redo to get rid of it
all.). H2O parameters seem ok, fish are happy, very little algae, VHO
lights + Moonlights. I will attempt to attach a pic but I am digitally
challenged, sorry if it doesn't work. <Pic was sent with no problem.
<<But not saved for posting... RMF>> Nancy, any residue left by a dead
anemone should definitely be removed. This can be quite toxic to the
rest of the inhabitants. Probably why your mushrooms are heading west.>
Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Nancy D
Pink Cucumber/System Poisoning - 07/20/06 Dear Bob,
<<EricR here this morning...>> I have a pink cucumber who has
been doing relatively well for approximately a year in my
tank. It's not very active but about a week ago it moved near the
overflow box and has become extremely "squishy" and looks very
wrinkled. <<Possibly just doing a "water change">> It still
sticks out its Feather like tentacles partially from one end and the
other end has a hole that appears to open and close like it is
breathing. <<All good signs>> My question is, is this
squishy body a bad sign. <<Hard to say. In my experience these
holothuroids tend to just "shrink away" once they are on the decline
(usually from starvation)...unless something has injured/poisoned
it>> It used to be quite solid but now if you touch it you can
almost push both sides together (Not that I've tried). If it is a
bad sign what can you do to try and resuscitate the poor guy.
<<Excellent water quality and adequate feeding>> It's a great
addition to my tank and many people love it as do I. <<I too am
a fan of these...>> I appreciate any help and if you need any
other information let me know. 1.022 salinity <<Would like
to see this increased to 1.025/1.026>> 0 ammonia very low
nitrates <<Mmm...less than 5ppm I hope>> 0 nitrites ph
8.4 55 gallon with 12 gallon refugium (with mud, mangroves and a
little Caulerpa algae with a max 700 gph pump, UV sterilizer,
protein skimmer and a power compact. I had a slime algae problem
but used SlimeBgone and it was gone in 48 hrs. <<Ugghh...a bad
practice my friend. Likely the antibiotic has adversely affected
the cucumber...not to mention killing off bacteria/other micro-biota
the cucumber used for food. And, it is very likely the BGA will
only return as you have not addressed the cause with the antibiotic
and rarely is the organism every totally wiped out>> Corals and
everything else seem to be doing fine. <<We can hope...>> I
add snow and phytoplankton about twice a week and generalize
its region. Best regards, Jason <<Cheers, EricR>>
P.S. You guys at WetWebMedia are the most knowledgeable
people around and thanks for all the help you provide. <<Other
"knowledgeable" folks about, but thank you for the praise. It is
our pleasure to help. Eric Russell>>
Re: Pink
Cucumber 7/20/06 Dear Bob, <<EricR again>> After
scavenging around WetWebMedia I found that the squishy feeling is
not a good sign. <<Okay>> So being scared for my fish I put
it in a quarantine tank. After removing the Cuke I found that it
became extremely hard again. The feather like tentacles retracted
into the body and everything seemed normal like when I bought it.
<<Yes...pumped up with water when it was disturbed>> Was
everything normal and I just removed him for no purpose and just
stressed it and myself. <<Is a possibility>> If I take the
precautionary approach, how long should I keep the Cuke in
quarantine and is there any non-stressful way to reintroduce it to
my main tank without cutting off a lot of feet. <<You can keep
it there for a week or so (be sure to target feed!) until you're
comfortable with returning it to the display. As for removing
it...be very gentle and take your time to SLOWLY coax it away from
the glass. I find very light but persistent pressure from my
fingers will usually cause the cucumber to release with no/a minimum
of damage to the tube feet>> Thanks again. Jason
<<Always welcome. EricR>> |
Sea
cucumber disaster 8/8/06 I don't really have a
question for you, just a cautionary tale you might share with your other
readers. <Please do> I went to the LFS this past Saturday
afternoon to get an easy-to-care-for fish of some kind, saw a pink and
green sea cucumber, and made an impulsive last minute change to my
plan. Big mistake. HUGE mistake. I later paid your site a visit for a
refresher on Cukes. I had forgotten all about them expelling their guts
into the water and pondered whether or not I wanted to take it back and
see about an exchange It made that decision for me early this morning
when it went nuclear and killed all my fish, though the other inverts
seem ok. I did a 30% water change this morning and will do a couple
more in the next day or so. I'm hitting it with some new charcoal as
well. This is a small tank, so it was only three fish. No real real
financial loss, but it is definitely irritating and embarrassing. I
know 99% of the blame falls on me, but I really wish LFS had said
something about a critter that dangerous. The money they made on the
Cuke is much less than the money they lost by losing me as a customer.
<...> As strongly worded as your warning against Cukes is, maybe you
should put some skulls and crossbones and biological hazard symbols on
it as well. Thanks for maintaining such a great site. It really comes
in handy, especially if used prior to a purchase. Thanks, Ty
<Thank you for this. Bob Fenner>
Urchin question
8/20/06 Hello WWM Crew, <Sara> I have a few
of questions regarding a Lytechinus variegatus urchin ( I was able to id
from your site), I hope you can help me out with. My first question is
if a Lytechinus variegatus urchin is in the process of dying, or not
doing very well, is there any chance it could release toxins in to my
tank? <Mmm... yes... this species is a member of the Family
Toxopneustidae... toxic to even the touch... to fishes, humans>
Should I remove this urchin from my main tank? <Unless it were very
large (hundreds of gallons), exceedingly well circulated and filtered I
would not introduce a member of this family> I had noticed that my
urchin had been losing spines at an alarming rate recently and had
stopped moving around the tank. When I turned him over there was a
brown/tan worm on him. This worm was not a bristle worm, rather it
looked more like a common earth worm (only much, much smaller.) It had
small bristles on it's side, but the bristles were not near as large as
a bristle worm's. <There are actually thousands of different
species...> I also have noticed that there are deep red spots on the
outside of the urchin it almost looks like blood. After I removed
the worm from the urchin he immediately improved and began to slowly
move around the tank again. So, I guess my main questions are
should I remove this urchin from my tank and quarantine him? <Yes, I
would. Don't use your hands in contact... scoop into a container...
i.e., don't expose to the air...> Is there any risk he will poison
my tank if he dies or is dying? <Again, yes> Lastly, are there
any know worms that are parasitic to urchins, or was this worm just a
result of him dying/not doing well? <Could be either/both>
Thank you so much for your help, Sara <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Toxicity of Cyanobacteria... can be extreme 8/27/06
Hi Crew, <Thomas/Tom> I have developed what I believe to be a
Cyanobacteria problem in a 30 gallon with 2 Gobies, 2 soft corals, and
1 Fireshrimp. This algae is purplish in color and sort of thread-like,
forming masses that hold together reasonably well. <Is likely a BGA>
I have found several suggestions on your site about how to go about
correcting this problem, which I will get to work on. But I still have
a question. Prior to water changes, I have been attempting to break
up this algae to syphon at least some of it out during those changes. I
have noticed my Fireshrimp suffering after water changes (looks bad,
like he might not survive). In today's change, I noticed that he looked
bad, before the new water goes in, which is why I started to suspect
this had something to do with what I was doing to the algae. <Mmm,
either this and/or some part/aspect(s) of the new water... Both very
common> So, can disturbing Cyanobacteria release toxics into the
water that serious affect a Fireshrimp, but not Gobies or soft corals?
<Oh yes. Bob Fenner, touching on this subject today at a presentation to
the NJRC in Pt. Pleasant, NJ> Thanks, Tom Deadly toxin?
9/5/05 Hello WetWebMedia crew members, <Alex> I have a
72 gal. tank that has been running for almost 2 years now. About 2
months ago something terrible happened, I fed my fish (at that time,
pair of tomato clowns, hippo tang, 4 stripe damsel and green spotted
puffer) early in the morning as usual and everything was normal and good
but by lunch time the puffer, the tang and the male tomato were dead.
All the inverts and corals were ok. I double checked parameters and
everything was good (zeros for ammonia, nitrite and nitrates, PH steady
at 8.2, Calcium at 420 ppm, density steady at 1.024, etc.) I immediately
did a 50% water change and replaced the carbon in the canister filter.
<Good> Unfortunately the 4 stripe damsel and the female tomato died
slowly over the next 2 days. The problem is that ever since, every
fish that I have tried to add and that seem healthy (quarantined for at
least 2 weeks at my LFS and properly acclimated) die within one hour
!!!! Symptoms include paralysis along with rapid breathing, but they
only show up about 5 to 15 minutes before the fish dies. The corals
in the tank (mushrooms, bubble, pumping xenia and finger leather) and
inverts (mainly Astrea and turbo snails) are still doing fine. I have
kept doing the regular maintenance that include top off and 10% weekly
water changes and 20% monthly water changes, carbon replaced weekly,
skimmer emptied daily, adding trace elements, etc. yet I just lost a
Naso tang today. I have no idea what can be causing this and I’m almost
ready to give up due to the frustration, sadness and money wasting
situation my tank has been in for the past couple of months. I think it
might be a toxin of some kind. <Agreed> I’m thinking about
nuking the tank and starting over from scratch. <This is,
ultimately, your best shot...> I don’t think any of the corals I
have can produce enough quantities of a powerful toxin like that, right?
<Correct> If so, is it possible that it might be impregnated and
accumulating in the live rock? And why it’s not affecting the snails
and corals, just the fish? Thanks in advance for your help. Alex.
<Something very toxic, and persistent here... most likely microbial in
nature... but might be related to the puffer... as you state, the best
approach is to drain, clean everything and re-set-up... the cnidarians
can be moved, the current LR rinsed in freshwater... and placed in the
tank again. Sorry to read of your situation. These "wipe-out syndromes"
are less common in recent years, but still troubling. Bob Fenner>
Blue tang sick......please help 2/9/06 I purchased a
blue tang from a very large and reputable LFS about 2 weeks ago and
since I bought him he just keeps getting worse! In my almost 2 month
old 150 gallon tank I have * Yellow moray ( 3 feet)
* Zebra eel ( 4 feet) * Miniatus Grouper ( 5 inches)
* Marine Betta ( 5 inches) * Maroon clown (3 inches)
* Large bubble tip anemone * Naso tang ( 6 inches)
* Yellow tang ( 3 inches) * Blue hippo tang ( 5 inches.
very sick!) * 15 large soft corals I have VHOs with more
than enough lighting (just below requirement for frags) and 160 pounds
of live rock. All my parameters are in check although just yesterday I
did get a nitrate spike (in safe levels however) <Numbers please>
but everything is fine now¦ anyway on to the sad part. For about 2
days he swam around (the hippo) and shook while swimming occasionally
swimming on his side although he definitely did not do this in the LFS!
Anyway after that he hid in the rocks and pretty much stayed there
since now¦.. about 2 weeks (no eating, swimming, hardly any activity
whatsoever) he dame up today leaning on my snail on the glass not
moving and I caught him with my net <Must be sick!> and made a
protective plastic sanctuary at the top of my tank with a cut laundry
basket with a little home from shade from the light and etc. Now
that I see him he has transformed from the beautiful fish I bought,
into a fish with faded blue spots and his yellow tail looks like a beat
up feather duster and is off white from the bright yellow it used to be.
There is also a cluster of tiny red spots oh his tail which I have no
idea what it is. He looks awful please help me I have read over 200
inputs with no real definitive answer and am blue in the face with no
progress. It would be a shame if he didn't make it Thanks so much
<Very likely this new fish is reacting to a chemical "soup" situation
your other fishes have become classically "adapted" to... their combined
wastes, the soft corals... If you want to save this fish it needs to be
moved to other quarters pronto... The overstocked situation in your
150... I'd stick to what you have. Bob Fenner>
Urchin
mysterious death-poisoning of tank 02-05-06 Dear Crew,
<Dawn> My tank recently crashed. Most everyone was saved,
except the fish, who perished very quickly. It happened while I was at
work; my housemate reported tank looked great at 3pm. It was cloudy /
milky by the time I got home 3.5 hours later, fish were dead, and most
everything else was severely stressed. I
suspect the death of a Diadema setosum or Antillarum (not quite sure
which it was) is what triggered the crash. <Could, yes> I think
it died, (it hadn't been well for some time, it had dropped it's spines
3 times in recent months), and in turn created a toxic soup that caused
tank crash. I do not have good facts for this,
just my suspicions. I've been researching for info re: toxicity of
urchins in the tank once they die, but having very little success.
I did find this on WWM, but little else in the Urchin articles and
FAQs - "There are no absolutely reef safe urchin species IMO... too much
chance of mysterious death-poisoning of the system" ~ Bob Fenner.
My questions: What leads Mr. Fenner to the
above conclusion? What can you all tell me about the death of sea
urchins poisoning a tank? Could you point me in the direction of
additional information? Thanks in advance and kind regards,
Dawn <http://www.google.com/custom?q=urchin+poisoning&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
Bob Fenner> Sea slug Toxin? Oh yes 02-05-06 Morning
guys! <Too cheerful...!> Just found your web sight and it's now
booked marked! <And the site too?> I've been searching all over
the web trying to find an answer to my problem! About a month ago I
purchased a beautiful sea slug. A week later I found it dead, caught in
my filter. <Yikes... am trying to put away the pix from the last
trip... and am on to the Opisthobranchs... and reading re just how toxic
some of them are... no wonder they can be so gorgeously colored and not
predated, eh?> A week later all my fish except for one damsel were
dead! ( Niger Trigger, reef beauty, Butterflyfish, cardinal, yellow
tang) I forgot to mention that my tank is a combo reef/fish 50 gallon.
My soft coals and one Anemone were not affected nor were the cleaner
shrimp, hermit crabs and turbo-snails. I immediately suspected the death
of the sea slug and sure enough read that these slugs secret a defensive
toxin. <Yes... but not so much a secret to the fishes they're found
with... just in the confines of an aquarium...> I performed a 50%
water change and replaced all my filters. I let the tank "stand" for 3
weeks then introduced one blenny to the tank. Within 36 hours it died!
It's skin was sloughing off and fins looked as if they were dissolving.
<Yep> My question is; should I completely start over with new live
sand and live rock??? ( the rock is still very purple in color) or let
the tank recycle for a longer period of time???? HELP! Great sight,
Jim <Mmm, if it were me, mine I'd try adding a good quantity,
quality of activated carbon in your filter flow path, let another few
weeks go by and try some other "test fishes". Bob Fenner>
Suspended red algae ... numerous iatrogenic problems, SW
3/3/06 Dear WWM, <I, not "i"> recently treated my 55 Gal
tank for ick <... not your main tank? No...> and then treated
the tank with Maracyn TC for secondary infections. the result was a
full bloom of red suspended (algae?) <Likely... a BGA> i have
done two 15 Gal. water changes in the last five days. it has been
reduced from a dark (blood) red to a purplish pink. i lost three clowns
a powder blue tang <Inappropriate for this size system> a goby
and four damsels in the process. I'm left with a lonely yellow tang an
empty pocket book and a heavy heart. i have a Skilter 400 filter
<Insufficient...> and a Corallife full spectrum light 30lbs of live
rock and live sand and started the tank with Bio nitrites Jan 1. this
is my first marine tank and my kids think I'm a failure. can you help
me? <You can definitely help yourself...> the red
algae is not like anything i have seen online.
yours truly, "red in the face" <Put some time aside, read on WWM
re Marine Set-up, Maintenance, Stocking... you've made a few grievous,
avoidable errors... educate yourself. Bob Fenner>
Sea
apple... disaster - 03/05/06 My sea apple has some type of
orange string coming out of her "butt" what is this? What should I do?
<Carefully, and I mean with utmost caution, remove this animal INCLUDING
this material. Please see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cukecompfaqs.htm Bob Fenner>
Too much Caulerpa? 5/3/04 hi again crew. <howdy> first off,
some good news. thanks for the advice re: nicotine on the fingers from
a couple of months back. i think that was what was causing my sudden
fish death syndrome. <its amazing how easily contaminants are
carried into the tank... aluminum from underarm anti-perspirant, acetone
from ladies (or men's - Doh!) painted fingernails, petrol products from
under finger nails, etc> since then, I've bought a grabber and latex
gloves, and haven't suffered any losses in quarantine (knocking on wood
aquarium stand :) <excellent to hear... and it protects you from
pathogens too!> I'm up to a Rabbitfish, 6 green Chromis, and a
brittle star. all seem to be healthy and happy. well, i used to have 7
Chromis, but i think it got sucked through a pump (i was away on
vacation). anyway, to my question. I have tons of green grape
algae. <Arghhhh... this is believed to be the most toxic/noxious of
all the common Caulerpas. Do be careful> to the point where it's
literally like a forest around my live rock. i had figured that the
Rabbitfish would have cut it back, but it seems to love prime reef (no
veggies there). <many fish will not eat this/other Caulerpas
because of their noxious composition> it loves the formula 2
(basically, enriched Nori) i give it, but just doesn't seem to
graze. i think it's a baby and scared (it's about 3 inches, and has
it's spines up and hides most of the time). i don't want to stop the
formula 2, because i know it's a staple in their diet, and i don't want
it to just eat the prime reef if it's so young. <correct> so,
should i get another herbivore to "teach" it/trim back the algae?
<not likely or recommended> I know having too much Caulerpa is not
the worst problem to have... <on the contrary... there are serious
risks with it... toxicity, vegetative events, etc. We describe this at
length in our Reef Invertebrates book and there is quite a lot on this
topic in the WWM archives. Do a keyword search with the Google.com
search tool from the home page for Caulerpa and see much> also, both
the Chromis' and the Rabbitfish are listed in Scott Michaels book (500
marine fishes) as feed 2-3 times a day. isn't that a bit excessive?
<good heavens no! These are fish that feed on plankton and algae,
respectively, almost constantly in the wild. Small frequent feedings are
best> i feed once per day, and think that's too much. <perhaps the
quantity at one sitting so too much... but not the frequency.> thanks
in advance-- rob <best regards, Anthony>
Toxic blue boxfish Hello, I have a 65 gallon tank with
approx. 65lbs of liverock and a 3" Picasso trigger and a 3" Niger
trigger that get along peacefully. <You're lucky. Don't expect it to
continue, especially in a tank that size> I am considering adding a blue
boxfish to the tank and am expecting some initial aggression to occur
until territories are re-established. How real is the threat of the
boxfish poisoning the whole tank during this stressful acclimation
period? <Don't get the boxfish. The aquarium is already going to be
overcrowded whenever your triggers grow. Also, boxfish should not be
housed with aggressive tankmates - they are best left a species
tank. Please read our archives regarding boxfish for more information>
Thank you. <No problem. M. Maddox>
Reef Tank Wipeout Guys- I have extremely bad news to
report. Yesterday, after a water change and bimonthly routine
maintenance performed by an LFS, my entire 72-gal. reef tank was
wiped out -- all fishes; all corals. I could give you an inventory
of the devastation, but it is still too painful. At two o'clock I
have a meeting with the LFS to discuss what happened. We will be
performing a forensic exercise of sorts and, going in, I need to
have some ideas of things to look regarding possible causes. The
accidental use of freshwater is not the culprit as specific gravity
was the first thing I checked. I am suspecting that they used water
that was too cold (They do a number of tanks and the water may have
been in the back of a pickup truck and become chilled. Yesterday,
the afternoon high was only about 40 degrees F.). Would this have
caused a wipe-out to this extent? Another possible cause might have
been the use of untreated tapwater. Would there be a visible sign
or indicator that might help me distinguish one cause from the
other? The fish died a slow agonizing death, as did my corals. I
know this because several were still alive when I got home from
work. Obviously, the lesson here is never to trust anyone else to
do your water changes or maintenance, but getting past that, any
information as to what I should look for would be helpful. -Scott
Ball <Very sorry to hear of the losses, your situation. I suspect
some sort of overt poisoning here... not temperature shock... which
is neither unlikely to have gone unnoticed by the service
technician, nor caused such a total collapse in such short time
frame. Such wipe-outs do occur with such small error as spreading
bleach (to clean filter cartridges, corals, shells...) at accounts
(I headed up a large service co. that this occasionally occurred
at... over twenty years, several hundred accounts)... by gear being
not-thoroughly rinsed from one acct. to another... Other chemicals
might be involved as well... like ammonia from a source (old media,
cleaning gear) being haplessly used between accounts... Could be
untreated tap/source water as you state... None of these is
"testable" for at this point... And there are other chemical
pollution possibilities... Did you have any Sea Cucumbers in this
system? Some marine invertebrates, if disturbed sufficiently can
trigger a melt-down, total loss in a few hours time. If the store
would like to chat with me, please give them our email address.
Bob Fenner>Reef Tank Wipeout Oh. Hi, Bob. It is a
pleasure. I feel like I'm talking to royalty. Thanks for taking the
time to reply to my query personally. I did have a sea cucumber - of
sorts. A certain variety sold by my LFS as a "Medusa Worm" and
billed as safe for tanks (supposedly didn't have and/or release
toxins). I am guessing it is of the order Synaptula. It was vibrant
orange and translucent. I had had it for, perhaps, six months
without a problem. Could this have been the culprit? -Scott Ball
<Mmm, a provisional yes, possibly... if it was relatively "big
enough" (relative to the size, filtration... of your system), got
"sucked up" against an intake... or a rock dropped on... Please see
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacukes.htm and the FAQs linked. Bob
Fenner> |
Poison Polyps? On Friday a
friend gave me two small mushroom anemone polyps. I put them in my tank
and did not pour in the water. They opened up. By Tuesday, four of my
six fish died, with no ich markings or obvious infections. I checked the
chemistry of the tank, which was great. Is it possible that the polyps
could have infected the tank? Thanks much, Joel Sappell <Well, Joel,
I doubt that it was some form of parasitic infection, as you would most
likely have seen some external signs. This all points to some type of
poisoning (metabolic or otherwise). This wipeout came on too fast to be
an illness, IMO, unless you exposed your fish to an extremely virulent
infection of some sort. Look beyond the obvious here for a
cause...Perhaps there was some sort of metal, or other potentially toxic
substance introduced to the water? When you checked the water
parameters, did you look at the "basic stuff", such as ammonia?
Sometimes ammonia spikes can occur for various reasons, and kill with
frightening rapidity. It may be just coincidental that the mushrooms
were introduced before this die-off occurred...Sorry I couldn't through
a little more light on things here...In the absence of obvious disease
signs, it may very well have been a poisoning of some sort...Keep
looking for answers...Good luck! Regards, Scott F> - Anemone
Stings and Toxic Tank Question - Do you mean that if they are
stung by the Tube Anemone that they will die immediately? <Really
depends on the extent of the sting.> Or can it take a few hours? <Both.>
From the contamination in the tank, could that cause the fish to look as
though they are peeling or flaking? <Yes. Cheers, J -- > Re:
problem with reef I bought the flower pot a month ago and it
died within 24 hours and 2 days ago I bought the anchor and 2inch maxima
and as soon as I put the anchor coral in my tank a white secretion came
out of it and I just bought the protein skimmer 2 days ago along with
the coral and clam thanks David P.S what can I do to make
this tank better >> Time... and timing... The Goniopora (Flower
Pot Coral)) no doubt poisoned the next couple of animals... and you're
dollar foolish and late with the skimmer... Wait, read, have patience...
take a gander at the materials stored on my website...
www.wetwebmedia.com... for insights into system set-up, livestock
selection... environmental disease, toxic tank conditions... Bob
Fenner Caulerpa/toxic waste spill episode Anthony,
<good afternoon, dear> After the Caulerpa/toxic waste spill episode,
I did a 25gal water change using the gravel vac to pull out all of the
remaining bits of dead plant matter where it had settled. (water was
clear when I did this) <excellent> Then, I added about 25lbs of
live rock. Now, 2 days later, my water is very cloudy. <was the rock
fully cured...and can you confirm that with a zero ammonia/nitrite
test...or did you just get snookered again (no mail order rock, right?
Its OK if you'll cure it separately, but never to be put/trusted right
in display> I have battled cloudy water before, but this is a weird
cloud. It has almost a yellowish hue to it, and even more strange, when
the morning sun comes in, you can actually see the make-up of the
cloudiness and it slowly drifts around resembling cigarette smoke. You
can only see this under the right sunlight condition, otherwise it just
looks murky. It is difficult to make out objects on the far side if you
are looking down the 6ft length on the tank. I have been aggressively
changing filter medium as it becomes clogged with this seemingly never
ending supply of dead plant material, but there seems to be no more
now. <may indeed be poor quality/uncured rock...any odor? Skimmer
working like mad, I suppose> Do I.... 1) Simply wait for it to
clear? <water tests please> 2) Do another water change?
<yes...perhaps several> 3) Shoot myself? <nope.. but patience and
the investment into a quarantine tank for all fish/plants/rock to got
through for 2-4 weeks first would save you grief> This is disturbing.
On a lighter note congratulations on your spritehood! Thanks again, -Pat
<thank you, the Queen Mum was shorter in person than I thought she would
be when I was knighted...er, spirited. Anthony> Re: Caulerpa
Anthony, <here and full of cheer... I just turned into a sprite (the
impish little imaginary creature, not the soda pop> You mentioned you
would not do Caulerpa unless for a specific purpose. It was recommended
to me to create a more stable natural environment, and keep down the
growth of less desirable algae. Did I misinterpret that? <nope,
correct...it may. But not without disadvantages too> If this is not
the case, I will not go that route again. What indeed are the specific
purposes you speak of, and is it your recommendation to have macro-algae
or to not go there yet? <like farming seagrass for aliotoms to
encourage plankton, or mangroves for aesthetic effect, or Caulerpa to
feed large tangs> Also, I took some advice from a reputable dealer
yesterday and added 25lbs of live rock. (mostly Fiji) He said this would
stabilize my system. (sound familiar?) <excellent... cured live rock
is a good investment in one's tank's health> He also suggested
distilled water or a R.O. machine to clear my problem algae. <will
only help if the nutrient source of the algae is indeed the tapwater
(have you found phosphates /nitrates/silica in your tap?> He told me
my Brita on my tap was crap. <agreed for aquarium use> Is this
good advice or was he trying to sell an R.O.? <conditional as above>
I seem to be moving in the direction of a reef, as my wife seems to dig
the critters more than the fish. <a common move...very fascinating to
watch new reef creatures and behaviors everyday> For this, I've
decided to expand my sump. <very wise> From what I've read about
pros and cons of Berlin, I think I'm going to keep the trickle anyway
and add a large sump area with live rock and protein skimmers.
<heavy skimming very good> Would you agree or would you lose the
trickle media for nitrate purposes? <very much so> Also, in my
system, in the overflow chamber, and again post trickle I have a TON of
mechanical media such as bags and bags of black diamond charcoal and
"poly Filter" pads. Should this stay in a reef or should this too pass?
<may be very good if you service it regularly> My apologies for
taking soooo much of your time. It is very appreciated and I thank you.
-Pat <quite welcome, my friend. Anthony> Is my tank
poisoned? Mr. Fenner, <Anthony Calfo in your service> Thank
you for answering many of my other questions from other sites. I now
have a huge problem! I have a 54gl corner with a Fluval 304 w/ activated
carbon, 55lbs of LR, 15lbs of LS, protein skimmer, and 2 powerheads. My
stock list is 1 Wellsophyllia, 1 torch coral, 1 maxima clam, 1 pearl
bubble, 1 Caulastrea?), assorted mushrooms and polyps, <I admire the
fact that your coral selection is thematically compatible... mostly LPS
corals and the others mostly low/med light and high nutrient just the
same. The clam is the only oddball and is OK if kept high in the tank. I
wish more aquarists were more conscientious of this... too many SPS, LPS
and softies all mixed together> 1 Anthias, 1 royal Gramma, 1 citron
clown goby, and 1 false clown. My water parameters have been at 0 with
temp 77, Alk 11dKH, calc 390 until today. I found my pink and green
cucumber dead but still had its guts intact and my impatiens Cuke dead
with its guts expelled. This must have happened during the day because
everything was fine until I came home. I was doing my normal water
testing once per week) after I removed the Cukes and all my parameters
have jumped! My ammonia is now .35, nitrites .3, nitrates 30 but calc
and Alk stayed the same. I also added a piece of LR from a LFS on
Saturday but all levels were normal as I was checking them everyday
since the addition of that piece to make sure there were no spikes.
Could it be from the Cukes or is it from the LR? <more likely the
Cukes but it is still not severe> What can I do to lower the levels
before any damage is done to the corals? <aggressive protein
skimming, carbon and especially Polyfilters and good water changes> I
also now know better than to have Cukes as part of the clean up critters
event though my LFS said they would be great additions! Thanks for all
the help. Chris <I'm really not too critical of sea cucumbers myself.
They are fascinating and their toxicity is highly variable and
overrated. They can be kept and even propagated. Best regards, Anthony>
Question: Hey Bob I enjoy reading your replies to others problems
especially when I come to the same conclusion before I read yours but
now I have a question that I hope you can answer for me. I have a 240
gallon tank that has been set up for about 5 months. I use a 350 magnum,
HOT magnum, and a HOT wet/dry filter as well as a number of power heads.
Basically a lot of scraps that I have from other tanks in the past. I
also use a "home made " filter for polishing on a once every few weeks
basis. As far as fish, I have 2 Leopard sharks and a Masked Puffer right
now. My problem is that about two weeks ago I noticed my tank started to
turn green so I tried to "polish" the water with no success. It got to
the point where it looked like Mountain Dew. I did some tests and it was
always fine and the fish seem to not be affected by it at all. I never
left any uneaten food around in the tank either. I started doing MAJOR
water changes in the past week or so and it is better but still not
clear like it should be. Do you have any suggestions? I'm thinking of
buying a protein skimmer but will that rid my tank of the discoloration
or are water changes the best way? Also what do you think could have
caused this in the first place? I was thinking of using a algaecide but
I asked about it at a local pet shop and they said that there were no
algaecides made for saltwater just freshwater and I really didn't want
to take that risk if I didn't have to. I really don't like adding
anything to my tanks. Any help would be appreciated. Bob's
Answer: Hey Tim... you're experiencing "unnatural selection" of a
sort. The probably single-celled green algae that are proliferating in
your system are taking advantage of a lack of competitors and predators
and over-running your view! Yes, I do have somethings that I'd do, and
encourage you to chew on. One, definitely get a big skimmer going on
this system. With Triakis semifasciata eating how much they're probably
doing, not to mention that beefy puffer!!! You need to extract some of
the gunk that is feeding your algae problem. The cheapest, surest way to
do that is through foam fractionation. Do you run any amount of carbon
through any of those Marineland filter products? You should. A few
pounds in polyester bags and switch them out every few weeks... BTW
there are algicides for marine systems, but in your case... I wouldn't
fool with them. The copper-based ones are DANGEROUS with sharks
especially. I have a 125 reef tank that experienced a major
melt down The tank is 4 months old with 150 pounds of hand picked
Fiji rock, wet dry system, ETSS Gemini 750 downdraft skimmer, UV, 3 175
watt metal halide lights with 2 6' VHO. Water parameters are normal.
Ammonia is 0. nitrite 0. Calcium is hovering around 450. Carbonate
hardness is 10. Tank temp about 77-78. The other day I came home from
work and found my fish breathing rapidly. I have 16 fish. The fish show
no signs of disease. No white spots. Nothing. The next morning
everything is dead except two clown fish and a Banggai cardinal. What
happened? <System components and parameters sound okay, and the real
clincher clue is the fish livestock that is still around... Some sort of
acute poisoning event occurred that favors fishes that live in close
association with invertebrates... over those who do not. Now, what is
it? Did you have a large sea cucumber? Something happen with a largish
stinging-celled animal? Something, somehow triggered one or more of your
other non-fish organisms to release toxins into the system. Something
got sucked into an intake, something got stung severely, fell on to
something else... At this point, I would encourage
a large water change (about half), a change in chemical filtration media
(or addition if you don't generally use same), and a good month
abstinence for adding more livestock of any kind.>
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