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FAQs About Water Changes for Marine Systems: Frequency &
Amount
Related Articles: Marine Water Change,
The
“Perfect” Water Change Regimen? by Scott Fellman,
Water Changes, Exchanges by Anthony Calfo, Captive
Seawater Quality,
General
Marine Maintenance,
Related FAQs: Water Changes for Marine Systems 1,
Water Changes for Marine
Systems 2, Water Changes 3,
Water Changes 4,
& FAQs on Water Changes: Rationale,
Gear/Tools, Techniques, Automation,
Trouble/shooting, &
Water Top-Off Systems,
Evaporation/Water Make-Up, Treating Tapwater, Marine
Water Quality, Marine Plumbing,
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As a general rule, some ten-twenty percent a month
minimum. Best more frequently, smaller percentages. Absolute best, continuously
as in "drip" (e.g. the folks at Monaco). Never have seen a system that
the simplest, cheapest, most-assured method of improving, maintaining water
"quality" (as in overall viability) wasn't frequent partial water
changes. Folks who profess otherwise are trying to sell you something. Check out
which is cheaper per desired results... and keep using pre-mixed synthetic or
stored-treated natural) for changes.
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Water Changes, SW
4/9/08
I have a new 150 gallon marine tank.
<Congratulations!>
It is 2 weeks old and I am currently cycling. When the tank matures (I am not
doing a full reef tank, but will
have appropriate live rock and limited coral) on this mostly fish tank, is doing
a 15 gallon water change each week enough to do a good job?
<With adequate filtration and proper feeding/stocking, yes.>
I just do not think I could consistently do it twice a week. I have a skimmer
and a sump underneath with overflows and two circulating pumps.
Thanks,
Michael
<A ten percent change per week is what you have, usually the recommended
minimum. This will be fine with a well planned/maintained system. Just keep an
eye on your water quality and increase the frequency or amount of your water
changes if needed. Welcome, Scott V.>
Water Changes, amounts/freq.
2/18/08
All,
I have read over you FAQ's and still have a question. I currently have a 125g
FOWLR with (3) green chromis, mated pair of false perc clowns, 2" diamond goby,
and 2" dogface puffer. Currently, I am doing a 5g water change every other day.
My water change goes as follows:
Put in salt
Add RO/DI water and buffer
Aerate 48 hrs
Test water
Change water
Is this ok?
<Yes.>
I was told by a friend, instead of doing the 5g change every other day, to do
20g once a week. Which would be better?
<The latter method may be easier on you, mixing and changing all at once. Either
will work just fine.>
My fish are happy the way it is now, and all levels stay perfect. Obviously, I
think everything is good, but I am concerned that the tiny changes may not be as
effective as a larger change over the long run.
<They are very much effective, in some ways better. By making many smaller water
changes you avoid any rapid fluctuations in system chemistry/temperature.>
Thanks for your info,
Skaife
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Calcium / Alk Question,
and water change periodicity/amounts 2/10/08
.....Thanks!
As for water changes I have a bucket of pre-mixed salt water. Once a day a drain
opens up from the sump, we then add 7 gallons of fresh pre-mixed aerated salt
water to the tank, the remainder drains out of the system.
This achieves 50 gallons per week. Based on this description, it is still
ineffective? My understanding is that more frequent small water changes are
better, by going daily I am taking this to the extreme.
<David Burochowitz, editor of TFH magazine did a study on water changes and the
mathematical reduction of nutrients when water changes are done in smaller
frequent schedules or in much larger frequent schedules. His study proved not
only mathematically, but also in his aquariums kept that larger water changes
are much more effective than smaller ones. The study was done with control tanks
to verify results. In summary, I advocate larger weekly water changes than
smaller daily ones. You are basically doing a 1.75% daily water change. In my
experience and understanding of dilution of nutrients the larger water change
would be more effective.>
As for the snowstorm, how high of a pH would spark this, 8.4?
<The pH would need to be closer to 9 or higher. For now double check your test
results by using a second test kit and do a larger water change. (around 50
gallons) This should help a lot. I would like to know what the Alkalinity level
is after 2 large water changes. It should fall back to a reading of 8-10
DKH.-Rich>
Best
Bryan
Twice Weekly Water Changes...!
Dear Scott F.
<Hi there!>
If your the ear today, I have NO questions. This is a pat on the
back. Your 5% water change article is pure genius. In one
week, ONE WEEK... I noticed water becoming crystal clear, corals
"perking" and one happy blue Pacific tang.
<Cool!>
My 100G reef is reborn and the water change is a snap. Thank you,
Thank you, Thank you.
<You're VERY welcome! It's great to hear that this technique is working for
you! It only sounds tough, but it really does work! I'll bet that our fellow
hobbyists would have a lot fewer algae problems, elevated nitrate levels, and
enjoy just better overall conditions for their animals. Keep spreading the word
on this technique! It's funny, all of my skeptical friends who embraced this
technique have been thrilled with the results, too. Could it be that water
changes are a good thing? YEP!>
By the way. read the Deep Sand Bed article and tried it with 4 inches of
aragonite... SWEET!! All of you deserve recognition.
Sincerely, Steve Collyer Modesto, California
<Thanks so much for the kind words, Steve! We have some very special people
on this Crew who really love sharing with our fellow hobbyists! Be sure to keep
sharing your experiences with others, so that we can all benefit and learn
together! Regards, Scott F>
A Little Change Is Good- What About A Lot? (Big Water Changes)
Dear on-staff WWM water change guru:
<Scott F. on call tonight>
I've become somewhat suspicious at the rainbow of expensive marine
supplements available, and the claims each make about not only the benefits of
using their product over others', but the necessity of using them, period.
<Well worth questioning>
Running some numbers, I've found that it would be much cheaper to up the water %
I change every week from about 15% to 25% and quit using supplements. Even going
up to 50% a week would be cheaper, which for me would be about 50 gallons per
change.
<Ok...I am a big water change fanatic, but I think I'd limit them to 10
percent per week, 15-25 percent max. If it were me, I agree with you that it's a
better idea to utilize water changes to "replenish" trace elements,
etc., but 50% water changes would be a rather unnecessary extravagance, IMO. I
wonder how much supplementation that you'd use in a 100 gallon tank to make
changing 50 gallons of water a practical solution!>
The idea here, of course, is to bring in all needed major & trace
substances during these changes, in addition to the benefit of flushing away the
bad nitrogen guys and what have you.
I got this idea from my LFS, who perform weekly 90% changes on some of their
reef tanks and don't bother with any supplementation or even skimming.
<Again, I love water changes, but I have to question that philosophy. Even
public aquariums with semi-open systems utilize protein skimming...It's your
first line of defense for many potential water problems. However, the concept of
massive water changes is interesting...But there are other potential problems,
such as the trauma to animals, if performed in a lax matter>
Of course, reading through the literature such as Fenner's TCMA, advice is given
against doing too big of a water change due to the shock it may incur on your
critters...and the loss of some beneficial stuff, like calming pheromones.
<I agree with the issue of potential shock, as well, if parameters are not
consistent>
I'd like to get some feedback on this topic (25%-50% weekly changes), and
perhaps some more info. on what negative things can happen from this? I assume
that I will keep using a high-quality mix that gets nailed every time in terms
of matching the tank's salinity, pH and temp....and that the fresh mixing water
is as pure as possible. Thanks so much! SLC
<Well, my concerns are mainly based upon the practicality and affordability
of such massive changes...It's a neat concept. As Anthony quotes "dilution
is the solution to pollution"! I like the idea, in theory-I just cannot
imagine the average hobbyist bearing the expense. If you can afford it- and if
you can do it right (keeping things stable and consistent), then go for it and
keep us very well informed as to your progress! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Major Water Change??? Actually algae control, gaining sufficient knowledge
7/14/05
Hello
<Hi there>
First and foremost, thank you for hosting such and excellent site, very
informative. I have an issue regarding green water in my saltwater
aquarium. I had this issue once before and my local pet store determined
that my water was fine, but, I was not supplying my live rock with a calcium
buffer. I purchased the Kent Marine Tech CB Buffers and the green water
went away within two weeks. Here are the specifics on my tank setup:
29 Gallon Saltwater Tank
1 X 65W 10,000K Daylight & 460nm Actinic w/ Lunar Light Powercompact
Remora Aqua C skimmer
2 - Penguin 550 Powerheads at opposing corners
30lbs of Live Rock
pH 8.4
ammonia = 0
nitrites = 0
nitrates = 0
alkalinity = normal (no numbers on the test strip)
calcium = 420ppm
When the water went green this last time I had a Prizm Skimmer in service,
that got replaced by the Remora after reading your opinion on the Prizm.
Also, I had only one powerhead before reading your website. Plus I have
made weekly 20% water changes. The water has cleared some but you can
hardly make out the live rock, yes, it's that bad. The residents of the
tank are a yellow watchman goby, lawnmower blenny, flame Hawkfish, fire
clownfish, sea cucumber, 8 hermit crabs, 4 turbo grazers and an anemone.
Before reading your site, I had made the error of resting a piece of live
rock against the glass. I understand now that this is affecting circulation
throughout the tank. My problem is, since I can't see into the tank clearly
enough, I don't want to move around the live rock. My question is, do I
proceed with a major water change, i.e. 50% so that I can at least do that?
<Unless there was some compelling reason, I would not (ever) change more than
25% of the water in an established system. Much more likelihood of trouble...>
Thank you for your help
John Fey
<John... please read here re Algae Control:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
and the linked files above... till you formulate a plan of action here... I
would check for phosphate, perhaps employ a chemical filtrant... consider adding
a sump/refugium, biological control means... Bob Fenner>
A MORE Perfect Water Change Routine! 8/24/05
All,
<Hi there! Scott F. here tonight!>
I read your article on the “perfect” water change regimen, and now have a
question. The article suggested 5% water changes twice weekly, but it also
implied that this was in conjunction with a skimmer.
<Yep...I highly recommended combo, IMO!>
So, if I am running a skimmerless nano (20L), should I do larger changes at the
same interval? I currently change 5 gal NSW twice weekly, your system would have
me changing only 1 gal twice weekly. My corals are thriving and my fish (Banggai
cardinals) are breeding, so maybe I am answering my own question here, but just
wanted to get a professional opinion about the ‘skimmerless’ issue.
Thanks, James
<Good question, James. Of course, being the water change fanatic that I am, I'll
recommend sticking with the water change regimen that you already employ! In my
opinion, it's all about consistency and observation. Your 2- 5 gallon water
changes are working well in your system, and I certainly would not reduce them
if you're happy with the results. As you've seen us state time and again here on
WWM, nano reef tanks require a much higher level of attention to husbandry than
larger tanks, because of their inherent instability, so I like your idea of the
large water changes. I like the idea of smaller, more frequent water changes,
because they help remove dissolved organics before they have a chance to
accumulate and degrade the water quality, which is why I wrote the article. It's
so easy and beneficial-and it becomes a part of your tank routine very quickly.
In the absence of a skimmer, your water change routine is your best ally, and
I'm happy to hear that you're employing it successfully! Best of luck to you!
Regards, Scott F.>
Water Change Schedule
Hello, I have a 75 gallon saltwater fish only tank.
The actual water volume is right at 65 gallons. My substrate is
crushed coral and I have no live rock. Please tell me what
percentage of water I should change each week. Thank
You, James
<Howdy James, there is no set rule on water changes, it is a lot
like the other aspects of this hobby, what you need (or need to do in this case)
is affected by what you have already or what you plan to keep. If
your tank is overcrowded, or has a bunch of messy eaters you will need to
perform larger water changes, or more frequent water changes. Your
best bet is to test your water frequently and take this information to adjust
your water change schedule. I like to change 1/4 of my tank volume
weekly. Best Regards, Gage>
The 5% Solution? (Frequent Small Water Changes)
Hi guys,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you today!>
For the second time today! It's RESEARCH MONDAY for me apparently:-)I was in one
of my LFS. During the course of conversation I mentioned that I make 5% weekly
to 20% bi weekly water changes. He said that routine was not as
effective as a Monthly 50% change. All this is assuming tank is healthy and
balanced
Here's his logic:
He said: say you have "100 ppm's of Nitrates" just for an easy number,
in the water when you change it. By changing 50% of the water monthly you
eliminate more dangerous elements such as Ammonia, Nitrates etc. He said you
eliminated 50% of those "100" when you did the big water change. He
said if you are doing several small water changes over the month you are not
eliminating as much waste and toxins.
<Let's look at this his way...If your nitrates are already 100ppm, of course
larger changes are required to dilute the nitrate. I think he's missing the
point: The reason of the smaller, frequent water changes is to keep nitrate and
other organics from ever accumulating in the first place! I'll be the first to
admit that two 5% water changes per week are not going to reduce outrageously
high levels of dissolved organics. If you start out right with diligent
husbandry techniques, you won't need to do massive, potentially traumatic water
changes at longer intervals>
I thought yes, but your nitrates, ammonias etc are not always at their highest
levels when you decide on a monthly routine. I am still in the
several small/month camp.
<Well, I think that you are in the right camp...I think that if more people
embraced this technique, they would see more consistent, high quality water
conditions, and would find themselves having to take a lot less
"corrective" actions, or using a lot fewer "additives" to
keep their systems in good shape.>
I am no scientist (that's my husband's area of expertise) but it just didn't
seem quite as simple as the sales guy wanted it to be.
<It isn't! LOL>
I am trying to not to be swayed from what has been working for me. What is you
argument for the several or against the large monthly?
<As outlined above...To me, one of the most important things that we can do
in closed systems is to provide stability. Stability involves water changes that
keep pace with the organic waste production in your system. Check out this link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm
If anyone is skeptical, I'd encourage them to set up two identical systems, and
change the water in one of them twice weekly at 5%, and the other once per
month, at a larger volume...You'll see the difference for yourself, believe me.
I've done this!>
Thanks Again for all you help!
Thanks, C.Evans
<Any time! And never hesitate to question any idea...That's how great new
ideas are born! Regards, Scott F>
- Small Water Changes -
Why are smaller more frequent water changes better than one larger one a
month? Thanks again, James
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm
Cheers, J -- >
Scott's H2O Method
Aloha, Bob!
<Hey Scotter!>
I felt that a number of our readers would benefit from a better description
of the theory behind my oft-recommended twice-weekly water change technique.
I think that quite a few people are embracing this idea with great
success...Or, at least humoring me for my constant clamoring to perform
them!
<Great>
Attached please find a brief piece that I composed summarizing this concept.
Perhaps it might make a good addition to the FAQs on maintenance?
<Mmm, can't "open"... can/will you resend either just on this
tray... or maybe as a "Word" or RTF formatted text?>
Hope all is well with you and Di. Looking forward to being back
"home in
the Islands", myself later this summer...If our paths don't
cross in Kona,
perhaps I'll see you and Anthony in LA next month?
<Do make it known if you can use the place here (about 1,300 ft. Mauka of
Kailua. And let's plan on meeting altogether if you'd like... on a day when
Anthony is in southern Cal. Think we're planning on a day to L.A. to pimp
books...>
Keep it wet! Scott F.
<Yowzah! See you soon. Bob F>
Water changes and trace elements 7/15/03
What percentage of water should I change weekly. Right now I am
changing 5 gallons a week (65% actual water volume).
<I don't follow your math for this 75 gallon tank. At any rate... the water
change schedule will be dictated largely by water quality and the bio-load.
Somewhere around 15-20% weekly for a minimum would be nice though>
Also, wouldn't the water change only replenish depleted trace
elements in the amount of water I change?
<correct... but we cannot/should not assume that all of the trace elements in
the remaining water are depleted. The rate of uptake will vary considerably>
It wouldn't help the rest of the tank would it?
<as per above... its only an issue if the demand exceeds the pool of reserve
of said elements in the remaining water (not likely with a light/proper bio-load
and regular water changes)>
Thanks again. James
<best regards, Anthony>
Re: Reef tank (diligence, maintenance)
Hey Bob,
My tank seems to be under better control. My maze brain is looking
healthier and the long tentacle is better, but my gravity reading is quite
high about 1.025 to 1.026. I read some articles on your website but couldn't
find what the best gravity range should be,
<This is right about right... do check on the accuracy and precision of your
specific gravity tester though... and there is a section on spg on the marine
index: http://wetwebmedia.com/spg_salinity.htm>
maybe I wasn't look in the right
place.
<Amazing... don't know how we could make the arrangement of materials on WWM
any more logical, accessible... did you consider using the Google search tool
there? Try inserting the words "specific gravity",
"salinity"...>
Also once a month I change about 10 gallons of sea water in my 30
gallon, should I be doing more?
<See the section on "Water Changes"... better to do five gallons
twice a month>
Also when ever I change my filter cartridge
on my Eclipse bio-wheel 3 hood it seems like waste matter enters the tank
even when I turn off the pump, replace the filter, and then turn it back on.
<Yes, design defect/user failure, but no big deal>
Do I even need a filtration system for such a small tank or is my skimmer
(sea clone) good enough?
<You need a filtration system>
Again thanks for all the advise, you have kept me
sane this week. Have a great weekend.
Thanks
Jason
<Keep studying my friend. Bob Fenner>
Water changes
Hello again, friend.
I hope this letter finds you well.
<Yes, thank you.>
I have a question regarding water changes.. I have a 75 gallon tank that
I've been doing a 10 gallon weekly water change on since I got it.. I'm
currently considering adding a quarantine tank underneath the tank, and it
would knock out some of the space I use for my 5 gallon buckets to do water
changes.. my question is this.. would 5 gallons every week still be enough?
<Possibly... but ten every two weeks would be better...>
Or should I relocate my buckets to a storage closet and keep it up with 10?
<This would be the route I would go>
Also,
for a 10 gallon quarantine tank.. I mentioned I have a Prizm skimmer.. would
this be enough filtration (provided there is some live rock in the
quarantine tank) or will I need to add more?
<S/b fine... might add a small outside power filter or inside sponge filter
(air or power)>
Other than that my quarantine
tank will just need a heater/thermometer (I wouldn't think any powerheads as
the Prizm is supposed to be for larger sized tanks and should move the water
plenty)
Please do let me know if I've forgotten any thing!
Thanks again from Atlanta
<Lighting for the live rock, a timer... Bob Fenner>
Bill Hammond
Water changes
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<<Jason C here, doing my best Bob Fenner impersonation, practicing for his
upcoming dive trip, hope you don't mind.>>
I hope everything is going well for you. I have been
reading your web site for a few months now and enjoy
very much.
I have been reading about fish and corals more then
anything. Today I read about water changes and I am
wondering if I have been doing something very wrong. I
have 75 gallons and I change 5 gallon each week. I
have a fair dusting of diatom on my gravel. When I do
the water change I run the hose over the top of the
gravel (not down into it) to clean up this algae. I
run over the whole area of sand that is not taken by
my LR.
Is this okay to do? I am wondering if I am harming my
balance by taking this algae from the gravel as often
as I do. Or was the point in your writings not to go
down into the gravel all over. I hope you are
understanding what I mean. :)
<<Your water changing practices, including the gravel cleaning are all
plenty adequate; certainly no harm being caused by taking the diatoms off the
top. You might want to clean the gravel more thoroughly once a month or
so...>>
Thank you for your time to read this. I hope that you
are able to write back. I will look forward to hearing
from you.
Carlos
<<Absolutely my pleasure. Cheers - J>>
Water changes
Bob, I have a 46 gallon tank with 45 lb. Live Rock. I have (2)
peppermint shrimp and (1) green Chromis and (1) clownfish (2) turbo snails and
(1) blue Linckia. I remove approx. 4 gallon of saltwater every week(8.7%). Does
this seem good enough as far as water changes go or should I do a water change
every 2 weeks?
<Weekly is better for your tank.>
Is Baking Soda the best solution for low Alk. or is just a temporary fix?
<There are better commercial preparations, such as Seachem Reef Builder.>
Well Bob you haven't let me down with any of the information you have give me.
Thanks
<Glad to hear you have found the information useful. -Steven Pro>
Water changes
Is it harmful to do water changes too often or in too large of a quantity? I
have
consistently have had a problem with brown rusty film on the inside of my tank
&
on the substrate. I clean it off and it shows up again pretty heavily within a
week I know you are supposed to get that within the first 2 months of a new
tank. My tank is 7 months old ( 72 gal) and I chg 5 gals once a week. I was
wondering if that is to much and that my tank keeps recycling?
<Five gallons in a 72 gal. system... once a week... actually may not be
enough. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm and the FAQs
beyond>
One other problem I have that I can seem to get rid of is very small air
bubbles. When I shut off the wet/dry they seem to go away when there is no water
movement- I have tried putting an elbow joint on my water pump intake and have
tried inserting foam sponges in the return section of the wet/dry. Any other
suggestions. Thanks
<Yes. Please go to the homepage of WWM: www.WetWebMedia.com and use the
Google Search at the bottom with the terms "bubbles",
"wet-dry"... and read the areas you're led to. Bob Fenner>
Water Changes
Hi,
I have a 50 gal., fish only tank. I mix my water in a separate 25 gal. container
with a power head and heater and have been leaving it for a week or more between
changes; works great!
<Good protocol. About same as mine. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm>
Lately, I've been changing 2 gals. every 2-3 days to try to prevent any spikes
in the quality of my water between major cleaning/changes. In your opinion, will
the replacing of the 2 gals. and using it again so soon have any adverse
effects? If so, any opinions on how to handle this?
<S/b fine. Please see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm and the FAQs
beyond>
I know the quantities I've mentioned may sound a little trivial, but I've had
quality problems in the past which have lost me some of my favorite fish and
water quality is #1 on my list of priorities for problem prevention.
Thanks,
Rich
<Best to shy on the side of conservativeness here. Bob Fenner>
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