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FAQs About Water Changes for Marine Systems: Frequency & Amount
Related Articles: Marine Water Change,
The “Perfect” Water Change Regimen? by Scott Fellman,
Water Changes, Exchanges by Anthony Calfo,
Captive Seawater Quality,
General Marine Maintenance,
Related FAQs: Water Changes for Marine
Systems 1, Water Changes for Marine
Systems 2, Water Changes 3,
Water Changes 4, & FAQs on Water Changes:
Rationale, Gear/Tools,
Techniques, Automation,
Trouble/shooting, & Water Top-Off
Systems, Evaporation/Water Make-Up,
Treating Tapwater, Marine
Water Quality, Marine Plumbing, |
As a general rule, some ten-twenty percent a month minimum. Best
more frequently, smaller percentages. Absolute best, continuously as
in "drip" (e.g. the folks at Monaco). Never have seen a system that
the simplest, cheapest, most-assured method of improving,
maintaining water "quality" (as in overall viability) wasn't
frequent partial water changes. Folks who profess otherwise are
trying to sell you something. Check out which is cheaper per desired
results... and keep using pre-mixed synthetic or stored-treated
natural) for changes. |
Very Simple, But Necessary
Information...7/16/09
Dear WW Media Crew,
<Laura>
You guys are awesome and the site is such a wealth of information!
<Thank you.>
I read the link on your site for frequent partial water changes.
It said a 5%-10% weekly water change is recommended for larger systems,
and up to twice that amount for smaller systems. I have an 85 gallon
reef tank, so what would be your recommendation in gallons per weekly
water change? Not sure if I am considered "large" or "small", or more
than likely, "in between".
<Around 8-10 gallons every other week should be fine.>
Also, I use Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt mix, which I feel is a high
quality product.
<It is and is my fave.>
My goal in the frequent partial water changes (among keeping pristine
water parameters for all the inhabitants in the tank) is to avoid the
need to "supplement" the system with vitamins and trace elements, both
minor and major. I would rather stay away from additives I cannot
measure in the tank.
<Amen.>
Weekly, I measure Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, Phosphates, and
Nitrates. All seems well. I add 3 drops of Lugol's solution weekly to
the sump and usually 2-3 scoops of Tropic Marin powdered Magnesium. My
water parameters are all well within the desired range for seawater. If
this type of maintenance is followed, what more would you consider to be
essential to add to the tank on an ongoing basis for growth, health, and
color of corals, fish, and invertebrates?
<None, other than partial water changes to replace minor/major trace
elements and dilute nitrate/phosphate levels. Do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm>
I have been guilty of doing too much supplementing at times and gotten
into trouble, as the industry has such conflicting information on this
subject and the amount of products for the hobby are endless. Is less
more?
<Laura, I follow your maintenance schedule almost to the letter, you are
on the right road.>
By the way - I do target feed all my corals 3 times per week with
phytoplankton and Cyclopeeze. Fish eat well, too.
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Laura
Water Changes…How Often?
5/10/09
Hey Bob and Friends,
<<Hey!>>
On Call (Madeline) here. <From the local HHH groups? Dogfish/RMF
here...>
<<Friend Eric here…>>
I really love this site.
<<Me too!>>
It is jammed packed with info.
<<Indeed>>
I am new to salt water aquarium care.
<<Ah well, I am not (30+ years)…but I do find myself still
discovering/learning about and hopefully growing with the hobby>>
I have a fresh water tank and an outdoor pond that do extremely well.
The main reason I think, is because I believe in higher filtering than
what the water capacity is.
<<Is helpful, yes>>
For example, my 20 gallon tank has two 20 gallon filters. My fish love
it and are super happy.
<<Excellent>>
My 80 gallon pond has filters for 120 gallons combined. My new addition,
a 60 gallon saltwater tank has a sump and skimmer for an 80-100 gallon
tank.
<<Very good>>
My question is this: How often should I be doing water changes?
<<Lots of opinions re…but many will agree on 10% - 20% bi-weekly for a
start…maybe a bit more/more often if needs (water quality/bio-load,
other husbandry practices, etc.) dictate. Have a look here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm >>
Presently I have only been toping off weekly about 1.5 gallons of fresh
reverse osmosis water.
<<Do think about buffering this top-off water (can be done with simple
baking soda) to reduce the burden placed on the system by using
“straight” RO water. Have a look here and among the many associated
links at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rofaqs.htm >>
I set the tank up the first week in February. I check my water weekly
and my water quality is excellent.
<<Maybe so…but the partial water changes also remove and replenish many
elements we don’t/can’t test for. I believe you would be hard-pressed to
find any author who “would not” advocate frequent partial water
changes>>
I have 8 soft corals and 8 fish and a shrimp at present, oh and a bunch
of hermit crabs and 2 green crabs.
<<You likely have no need for any other “supplementations” outside that
provided by frequent partial water changes>>
Thanks much for any advice you can give me. I have read the articles on
your site, but didn't see any with my set up for a new tank.
Thanks again!
Madeline
<<Happy to share… Eric Russell>>
Large water change frequency 11/17/08
For years I have been
mixing my salt with tap water, with mostly unsuccessful results as you
would imagine. Too many fish die too soon.
Basic water chemistry has
always been good (pH 8.2, ammonia + nitrite zero, nitrate around 10),
but I have had issues with diatoms and other undesirable stuff in
addition to fish loss. I assume the problems all stem from the tap
water, so I finally got an RO/DI unit.
<Great idea!>
I am in the
process of replacing most of the "bad" water in the tank with new pure
water. I have a 125 FOWLR plus 15 gals in the sump, 130 lbs rock, AquaC
EV120 skimmer, good circulation and lighting. Since cranking up the RO
unit, I have been changing 25 gals at a time. I have done this twice, 3
days apart, and I'm ready to do another. How often should I do these
roughly 20% water changes? How many should I do before adding more fish?
I want to get rid of all the TDS, nitrates, phosphates, and other stuff
before restocking. <According to the water change calculator on Reef
Central, it would take 16 20% water changes to completely get out all
the tap water from your tank. To save yourself some time and headache, I
suggest just doing a 50% water change and calling it a day. Just make
sure the water that you are changing is the same temperature, salinity,
and pH.
It should be safe to add livestock shortly thereafter. Just
make sure to keep up with 10-20 percent water changes every week or two
for a healthy maintenance schedule. Also if you should find that your
algae problems persist after all this, do some research on your salt
mix. It is also very important. Regards, Jessy>
Water changes how
much is too much... Reef maint... 8/5/08
Hi Guys,
<Bryan>
Thanks again for all of your wonderful information!
<Welcome>
I have a 400g total tank including sump. I had been
doing weekly 50g water changes for some time, however I have begun
to notice some nuisance algae starting to grow in the main tank
sand. I do have macro algae starting to grow in sump. I decided to
step up my water changes to 100gallons
<Mmmm, I know I should
have gone long on those synthetic saltwater manufacturing
companies.>
and I have been doing this sometimes twice a week to
help export some nutrients.
<Not the route I would go>
How
much can I do before I start exporting bacteria, phyto, and other
beneficial things?
<Some is done with any water change... too
much? You're likely past this point>
The system is moderately
loaded and includes many SPS, LPS, fish, and soft corals.
Skimmer is functioning, I am also working on ozone addition but
waiting on a few parts for this.
<Ah, good... will assuredly
help>
A couple of points on my water changes:
1.) The system
is designed to empty water as water flows in, so the water change is
diluted by addition of the water.
<Mmm, oh I see below>
I
don't think this is quite as effective as draining and then filling,
but given the system design it's the only easy way to accomplish
water changes frequently.
2.) I don't vacuum substrate. The
substrate is a very fine sand, I prefer clean up crews to do this
job. Is this something that is absolutely necessary?
<Not likely
so... might be a good idea to stir part of it (with a chemically
inert dowel... plastic, wood... every change...)>
Most of my
snails seems to prefer rock and sides of tank and not the sand. Any
suggestions for clean up crews to help keep my sand looking clear?
<Mmm, need to chat a bit more before discussing this/these... As in,
what's in the sump? Do you have a purposeful, large enough DSB?
Culture macroalgae, on a RDP basis? Have you read re? Maybe start
here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
The tray on
Sumps/Refugiums... Bob Fenner>
Best
Bryan
re: water changes how much is too much 8/5/08
would you
cut back to 50g per week or 100?
<I would...>
I have to get my
ORP meter checked before I start ozone.
<I'd set on low mg/h per
your volume, metabolism "draw"... not likely to "peg out"... about
300 or so micro Siemens per cm... See WWM re... RMF> |
Water Changes, SW 4/9/08
I have a new 150 gallon marine
tank.
<Congratulations!>
It is 2 weeks old and I am currently
cycling. When the tank matures (I am not doing a full reef tank, but
will have appropriate live rock and limited coral) on this mostly fish
tank, is doing a 15 gallon water change each week enough to do a good
job?
<With adequate filtration and proper feeding/stocking, yes.>
I just do not think I could consistently do it twice a week. I have a
skimmer and a sump underneath with overflows and two circulating pumps.
Thanks,
Michael
<A ten percent change per week is what you have,
usually the recommended minimum. This will be fine with a well
planned/maintained system. Just keep an eye on your water quality and
increase the frequency or amount of your water changes if needed.
Welcome, Scott V.>
Water Changes, amounts/freq. 2/18/08
All,
I have read
over you FAQ's and still have a question. I currently have a 125g FOWLR
with (3) green chromis, mated pair of false perc clowns, 2" diamond
goby, and 2" dogface puffer. Currently, I am doing a 5g water change
every other day. My water change goes as follows:
Put in salt
Add
RO/DI water and buffer
Aerate 48 hrs
Test water
Change water
Is this ok?
<Yes.>
I was told by a friend, instead of doing the
5g change every other day, to do 20g once a week. Which would be better?
<The latter method may be easier on you, mixing and changing all at
once. Either will work just fine.>
My fish are happy the way it is
now, and all levels stay perfect. Obviously, I think everything is good,
but I am concerned that the tiny changes may not be as effective as a
larger change over the long run.
<They are very much effective, in
some ways better. By making many smaller water changes you avoid any
rapid fluctuations in system chemistry/temperature.>
Thanks for your
info,
Skaife
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Calcium / Alk Question, and water change periodicity/amounts
2/10/08
.....Thanks!
As for water changes I have a bucket of
pre-mixed salt water. Once a day a drain opens up from the sump, we then
add 7 gallons of fresh pre-mixed aerated salt water to the tank, the
remainder drains out of the system.
This achieves 50 gallons per
week. Based on this description, it is still ineffective? My
understanding is that more frequent small water changes are better, by
going daily I am taking this to the extreme.
<David Burochowitz,
editor of TFH magazine did a study on water changes and the mathematical
reduction of nutrients when water changes are done in smaller frequent
schedules or in much larger frequent schedules. His study proved not
only mathematically, but also in his aquariums kept that larger water
changes are much more effective than smaller ones. The study was done
with control tanks to verify results. In summary, I advocate larger
weekly water changes than smaller daily ones. You are basically doing a
1.75% daily water change. In my experience and understanding of dilution
of nutrients the larger water change would be more effective.>
As for
the snowstorm, how high of a pH would spark this, 8.4?
<The pH would
need to be closer to 9 or higher. For now double check your test results
by using a second test kit and do a larger water change. (around 50
gallons) This should help a lot. I would like to know what the
Alkalinity level is after 2 large water changes. It should fall back to
a reading of 8-10 DKH.-Rich>
Best
Bryan Twice
Weekly Water Changes...!
Dear Scott F.
<Hi there!>
If your
the ear today, I have NO questions. This is a pat on the back. Your 5%
water change article is pure genius. In one week, ONE WEEK... I noticed
water becoming crystal clear, corals "perking" and one happy blue
Pacific tang.
<Cool!>
My 100G reef is reborn and the water change
is a snap. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
<You're VERY welcome!
It's great to hear that this technique is working for you! It only
sounds tough, but it really does work! I'll bet that our fellow
hobbyists would have a lot fewer algae problems, elevated nitrate
levels, and enjoy just better overall conditions for their animals. Keep
spreading the word on this technique! It's funny, all of my skeptical
friends who embraced this technique have been thrilled with the results,
too. Could it be that water changes are a good thing? YEP!>
By the
way. read the Deep Sand Bed article and tried it with 4 inches of
aragonite... SWEET!! All of you deserve recognition.
Sincerely,
Steve Collyer Modesto, California
<Thanks so much for the kind words,
Steve! We have some very special people on this Crew who really love
sharing with our fellow hobbyists! Be sure to keep sharing your
experiences with others, so that we can all benefit and learn together!
Regards, Scott F> A Little Change Is Good- What About A Lot? (Big
Water Changes)
Dear on-staff WWM water change guru:
<Scott F.
on call tonight>
I've become somewhat suspicious at the rainbow of
expensive marine
supplements available, and the claims each make
about not only the benefits of using their product over others', but the
necessity of using them, period.
<Well worth questioning>
Running
some numbers, I've found that it would be much cheaper to up the water %
I change every week from about 15% to 25% and quit using supplements.
Even going up to 50% a week would be cheaper, which for me would be
about 50 gallons per change.
<Ok...I am a big water change fanatic,
but I think I'd limit them to 10 percent per week, 15-25 percent max. If
it were me, I agree with you that it's a better idea to utilize water
changes to "replenish" trace elements, etc., but 50% water changes would
be a rather unnecessary extravagance, IMO. I wonder how much
supplementation that you'd use in a 100 gallon tank to make changing 50
gallons of water a practical solution!>
The idea here, of course, is
to bring in all needed major & trace
substances during these changes,
in addition to the benefit of flushing away the bad nitrogen guys and
what have you.
I got this idea from my LFS, who perform weekly 90%
changes on some of their reef tanks and don't bother with any
supplementation or even skimming.
<Again, I love water changes, but I
have to question that philosophy. Even public aquariums with semi-open
systems utilize protein skimming...It's your first line of defense for
many potential water problems. However, the concept of massive water
changes is interesting...But there are other potential problems, such as
the trauma to animals, if performed in a lax matter>
Of course,
reading through the literature such as Fenner's TCMA, advice is given
against doing too big of a water change due to the shock it may incur on
your critters...and the loss of some beneficial stuff, like calming
pheromones.
<I agree with the issue of potential shock, as well, if
parameters are not consistent>
I'd like to get some feedback on this
topic (25%-50% weekly changes), and perhaps some more info. on what
negative things can happen from this? I assume that I will keep using a
high-quality mix that gets nailed every time in terms of matching the
tank's salinity, pH and temp....and that the fresh mixing water is as
pure as possible. Thanks so much! SLC
<Well, my concerns are mainly
based upon the practicality and affordability of such massive
changes...It's a neat concept. As Anthony quotes "dilution is the
solution to pollution"! I like the idea, in theory-I just cannot imagine
the average hobbyist bearing the expense. If you can afford it- and if
you can do it right (keeping things stable and consistent), then go for
it and keep us very well informed as to your progress! Good luck!
Regards, Scott F> Major Water Change??? Actually algae control,
gaining sufficient knowledge 7/14/05
Hello
<Hi there>
First and foremost, thank you for hosting such and excellent site, very
informative. I have an issue regarding green water in my saltwater
aquarium. I had this issue once before and my local pet store
determined that my water was fine, but, I was not supplying my live rock
with a calcium buffer. I purchased the Kent Marine Tech CB Buffers and
the green water went away within two weeks. Here are the specifics on
my tank setup:
29 Gallon Saltwater Tank
1 X 65W 10,000K Daylight
& 460nm Actinic w/ Lunar Light Powercompact
Remora Aqua C skimmer
2 - Penguin 550 Powerheads at opposing corners
30lbs of Live Rock
pH 8.4
ammonia = 0
nitrites = 0
nitrates = 0
alkalinity
= normal (no numbers on the test strip)
calcium = 420ppm
When
the water went green this last time I had a Prizm Skimmer in service,
that got replaced by the Remora after reading your opinion on the Prizm.
Also, I had only one powerhead before reading your website. Plus I have
made weekly 20% water changes. The water has cleared some but you can
hardly make out the live rock, yes, it's that bad. The residents of the
tank are a yellow watchman goby, lawnmower blenny, flame Hawkfish, fire
clownfish, sea cucumber, 8 hermit crabs, 4 turbo grazers and an anemone.
Before reading your site, I had made the error of resting a piece of
live rock against the glass. I understand now that this is affecting
circulation throughout the tank. My problem is, since I can't see into
the tank clearly enough, I don't want to move around the live rock. My
question is, do I proceed with a major water change, i.e. 50% so that I
can at least do that?
<Unless there was some compelling reason, I
would not (ever) change more than 25% of the water in an established
system. Much more likelihood of trouble...>
Thank you for your help
John Fey
<John... please read here re Algae Control:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
and the linked files
above... till you formulate a plan of action here... I would check for
phosphate, perhaps employ a chemical filtrant... consider adding a
sump/refugium, biological control means... Bob Fenner> A MORE
Perfect Water Change Routine! 8/24/05
All,
<Hi there! Scott
F. here tonight!>
I read your article on the “perfect” water change
regimen, and now have a question. The article suggested 5% water changes
twice weekly, but it also implied that this was in conjunction with a
skimmer.
<Yep...I highly recommended combo, IMO!>
So, if I am
running a skimmerless nano (20L), should I do larger changes at the same
interval? I currently change 5 gal NSW twice weekly, your system would
have me changing only 1 gal twice weekly. My corals are thriving and my
fish (Banggai cardinals) are breeding, so maybe I am answering my own
question here, but just wanted to get a professional opinion about the
‘skimmerless’ issue.
Thanks, James
<Good question, James. Of
course, being the water change fanatic that I am, I'll recommend
sticking with the water change regimen that you already employ! In my
opinion, it's all about consistency and observation. Your 2- 5 gallon
water changes are working well in your system, and I certainly would not
reduce them if you're happy with the results. As you've seen us state
time and again here on WWM, nano reef tanks require a much higher level
of attention to husbandry than larger tanks, because of their inherent
instability, so I like your idea of the large water changes. I like the
idea of smaller, more frequent water changes, because they help remove
dissolved organics before they have a chance to accumulate and degrade
the water quality, which is why I wrote the article. It's so easy and
beneficial-and it becomes a part of your tank routine very quickly. In
the absence of a skimmer, your water change routine is your best ally,
and I'm happy to hear that you're employing it successfully! Best of
luck to you! Regards, Scott F.> Water Change
Schedule
Hello, I have a 75 gallon saltwater fish only tank.
The actual water volume is right at 65 gallons. My substrate is crushed
coral and I have no live rock. Please tell me what percentage of water
I should change each week. Thank
You, James
<Howdy James, there
is no set rule on water changes, it is a lot like the other aspects of
this hobby, what you need (or need to do in this case) is affected by
what you have already or what you plan to keep. If your tank is
overcrowded, or has a bunch of messy eaters you will need to perform
larger water changes, or more frequent water changes. Your best bet is
to test your water frequently and take this information to adjust your
water change schedule. I like to change 1/4 of my tank volume
weekly. Best Regards, Gage> The 5% Solution? (Frequent Small
Water Changes)
Hi guys,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you today!>
For the second time today! It's RESEARCH MONDAY for me apparently:-)I
was in one of my LFS. During the course of conversation I mentioned that
I make 5% weekly to 20% bi weekly water changes. He said that routine
was not as effective as a Monthly 50% change. All this is assuming tank
is healthy and balanced
Here's his logic:
He said: say you have
"100 ppm's of Nitrates" just for an easy number, in the water when you
change it. By changing 50% of the water monthly you eliminate more
dangerous elements such as Ammonia, Nitrates etc. He said you eliminated
50% of those "100" when you did the big water change. He said if you are
doing several small water changes over the month you are not eliminating
as much waste and toxins.
<Let's look at this his way...If your
nitrates are already 100ppm, of course larger changes are required to
dilute the nitrate. I think he's missing the point: The reason of the
smaller, frequent water changes is to keep nitrate and other organics
from ever accumulating in the first place! I'll be the first to admit
that two 5% water changes per week are not going to reduce outrageously
high levels of dissolved organics. If you start out right with diligent
husbandry techniques, you won't need to do massive, potentially
traumatic water changes at longer intervals>
I thought yes, but your
nitrates, ammonias etc are not always at their highest levels when you
decide on a monthly routine. I am still in the several small/month
camp.
<Well, I think that you are in the right camp...I think that if
more people embraced this technique, they would see more consistent,
high quality water conditions, and would find themselves having to take
a lot less "corrective" actions, or using a lot fewer "additives" to
keep their systems in good shape.>
I am no scientist (that's my
husband's area of expertise) but it just didn't seem quite as simple as
the sales guy wanted it to be.
<It isn't! LOL>
I am trying to not
to be swayed from what has been working for me. What is you argument for
the several or against the large monthly?
<As outlined above...To me,
one of the most important things that we can do in closed systems is to
provide stability. Stability involves water changes that keep pace with
the organic waste production in your system. Check out this link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm
If anyone is
skeptical, I'd encourage them to set up two identical systems, and
change the water in one of them twice weekly at 5%, and the other once
per month, at a larger volume...You'll see the difference for yourself,
believe me. I've done this!>
Thanks Again for all you help!
Thanks, C.Evans
<Any time! And never hesitate to question any
idea...That's how great new ideas are born! Regards, Scott F>
- Small Water Changes -
Why are smaller more frequent water
changes better than one larger one a month? Thanks again, James
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm
Cheers, J -- >
Scott's H2O Method
Aloha, Bob!
<Hey Scotter!>
I felt that a
number of our readers would benefit from a better description of the
theory behind my oft-recommended twice-weekly water change technique.
I think that quite a few people are embracing this idea with great
success...Or, at least humoring me for my constant clamoring to perform
them!
<Great>
Attached please find a brief piece that I composed
summarizing this concept.
Perhaps it might make a good addition to
the FAQs on maintenance?
<Mmm, can't "open"... can/will you resend
either just on this tray... or maybe as a "Word" or RTF formatted text?>
Hope all is well with you and Di. Looking forward to being back "home
in the Islands", myself later this summer...If our paths don't cross in
Kona, perhaps I'll see you and Anthony in LA next month?
<Do make it
known if you can use the place here (about 1,300 ft. Mauka of Kailua.
And let's plan on meeting altogether if you'd like... on a day when
Anthony is in southern Cal. Think we're planning on a day to L.A. to
pimp books...>
Keep it wet! Scott F.
<Yowzah! See you soon. Bob F>
Water changes and trace elements 7/15/03
What percentage of water
should I change weekly. Right now I am changing 5 gallons a week (65%
actual water volume).
<I don't follow your math for this 75 gallon
tank. At any rate... the water change schedule will be dictated largely
by water quality and the bio-load. Somewhere around 15-20% weekly for a
minimum would be nice though>
Also, wouldn't the water change only
replenish depleted trace
elements in the amount of water I change?
<correct... but we cannot/should not assume that all of the trace
elements in the remaining water are depleted. The rate of uptake will
vary considerably>
It wouldn't help the rest of the tank would it?
<as per above... its only an issue if the demand exceeds the pool of
reserve of said elements in the remaining water (not likely with a
light/proper bio-load and regular water changes)>
Thanks
again. James
<best regards, Anthony> Re: Reef tank
(diligence, maintenance)
Hey Bob,
My tank seems to be under
better control. My maze brain is looking healthier and the long tentacle
is better, but my gravity reading is quite high about 1.025 to 1.026. I
read some articles on your website but couldn't find what the best
gravity range should be,
<This is right about right... do check on
the accuracy and precision of your specific gravity tester though... and
there is a section on spg on the marine index:
http://wetwebmedia.com/spg_salinity.htm>
maybe I wasn't look in the
right place.
<Amazing... don't know how we could make the
arrangement of materials on WWM any more logical, accessible... did you
consider using the Google search tool there? Try inserting the words
"specific gravity", "salinity"...>
Also once a month I change about
10 gallons of sea water in my 30 gallon, should I be doing more?
<See
the section on "Water Changes"... better to do five gallons twice a
month>
Also when ever I change my filter cartridge on my Eclipse
bio-wheel 3 hood it seems like waste matter enters the tank even when I
turn off the pump, replace the filter, and then turn it back on.
<Yes, design defect/user failure, but no big deal>
Do I even need a
filtration system for such a small tank or is my skimmer (sea clone)
good enough?
<You need a filtration system>
Again thanks for all
the advise, you have kept me sane this week. Have a great weekend.
Thanks
Jason
<Keep studying my friend. Bob Fenner> Water
changes
Hello again, friend.
I hope this letter finds you
well.
<Yes, thank you.>
I have a question regarding water
changes.. I have a 75 gallon tank that I've been doing a 10 gallon
weekly water change on since I got it.. I'm currently considering adding
a quarantine tank underneath the tank, and it would knock out some of
the space I use for my 5 gallon buckets to do water changes.. my
question is this.. would 5 gallons every week still be enough?
<Possibly... but ten every two weeks would be better...>
Or should I
relocate my buckets to a storage closet and keep it up with 10?
<This
would be the route I would go>
Also, for a 10 gallon quarantine
tank.. I mentioned I have a Prizm skimmer.. would this be enough
filtration (provided there is some live rock in the quarantine tank) or
will I need to add more?
<S/b fine... might add a small outside
power filter or inside sponge filter (air or power)>
Other than that
my quarantine tank will just need a heater/thermometer (I wouldn't think
any powerheads as the Prizm is supposed to be for larger sized tanks and
should move the water plenty)
Please do let me know if I've forgotten
any thing!
Thanks again from Atlanta
<Lighting for the live rock,
a timer... Bob Fenner>
Bill Hammond Water changes
Hello Mr. Fenner,
<<Jason C here, doing my best Bob Fenner
impersonation, practicing for his upcoming dive trip, hope you don't
mind.>>
I hope everything is going well for you. I have been reading
your web site for a few months now and enjoy very much.
I have been
reading about fish and corals more then anything. Today I read about
water changes and I am wondering if I have been doing something very
wrong. I have 75 gallons and I change 5 gallon each week. I have a fair
dusting of diatom on my gravel. When I do the water change I run the
hose over the top of the gravel (not down into it) to clean up this
algae. I run over the whole area of sand that is not taken by my LR.
Is this okay to do? I am wondering if I am harming my balance by taking
this algae from the gravel as often as I do. Or was the point in your
writings not to go down into the gravel all over. I hope you are
understanding what I mean. :)
<<Your water changing practices,
including the gravel cleaning are all plenty adequate; certainly no harm
being caused by taking the diatoms off the top. You might want to clean
the gravel more thoroughly once a month or so...>>
Thank you for your
time to read this. I hope that you are able to write back. I will look
forward to hearing from you.
Carlos
<<Absolutely my pleasure.
Cheers - J>> Water changes
Bob, I have a 46 gallon tank
with 45 lb. Live Rock. I have (2) peppermint shrimp and (1) green
Chromis and (1) clownfish (2) turbo snails and (1) blue Linckia. I
remove approx. 4 gallon of saltwater every week(8.7%). Does this seem
good enough as far as water changes go or should I do a water change
every 2 weeks?
<Weekly is better for your tank.>
Is Baking Soda
the best solution for low Alk. or is just a temporary fix?
<There are
better commercial preparations, such as Seachem Reef Builder.>
Well
Bob you haven't let me down with any of the information you have give
me. Thanks
<Glad to hear you have found the information useful.
-Steven Pro> Water changes
Is it harmful to do water
changes too often or in too large of a quantity? I have consistently
have had a problem with brown rusty film on the inside of my tank & on
the substrate. I clean it off and it shows up again pretty heavily
within a week I know you are supposed to get that within the first 2
months of a new tank. My tank is 7 months old ( 72 gal) and I chg 5 gals
once a week. I was wondering if that is to much and that my tank keeps
recycling?
<Five gallons in a 72 gal. system... once a week...
actually may not be enough. Please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm and the FAQs beyond>
One other
problem I have that I can seem to get rid of is very small air bubbles.
When I shut off the wet/dry they seem to go away when there is no water
movement- I have tried putting an elbow joint on my water pump intake
and have tried inserting foam sponges in the return section of the
wet/dry. Any other suggestions. Thanks
<Yes. Please go to the
homepage of WWM: www.WetWebMedia.com and use the Google Search at the
bottom with the terms "bubbles", "wet-dry"... and read the areas you're
led to. Bob Fenner> Water Changes
Hi,
I have a 50
gal., fish only tank. I mix my water in a separate 25 gal. container
with a power head and heater and have been leaving it for a week or more
between changes; works great!
<Good protocol. About same as mine.
Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm>
Lately,
I've been changing 2 gals. every 2-3 days to try to prevent any spikes
in the quality of my water between major cleaning/changes. In your
opinion, will the replacing of the 2 gals. and using it again so soon
have any adverse effects? If so, any opinions on how to handle this?
<S/b fine. Please see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm and the FAQs
beyond>
I know the quantities I've mentioned may sound a little
trivial, but I've had quality problems in the past which have lost me
some of my favorite fish and water quality is #1 on my list of
priorities for problem prevention.
Thanks,
Rich
<Best to shy on
the side of conservativeness here. Bob Fenner>
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