FAQs on Discus Disease: Environmental
FAQs on Discus Disease:
Discus Disease 1,
Discus Disease 2,
Discus Disease 3,
FAQs on Discus Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Nutritional, Social,
Infectious,
Parasitic,
Trauma, Treatments
Related Articles:
Plants +
Discus = Wow! by Alesia Benedict,
Planted Aquariums:
Plants and Discus: What They Need To
Thrive By Alesia
Benedict, Discus Divas, Glitz,
Glam and Lots of Demands by Alesia Benedict,
Juraparoids,
Neotropical Cichlids,
African Cichlids,
Dwarf South American Cichlids,
Asian Cichlids,
Cichlid Fishes in General,
Related FAQs: Discus 1,
Discus 2,
Discus Identification,
Discus Selection,
Discus Compatibility,
Discus Behavior,
Discus Systems,
Discus Feeding,
Discus Reproduction,
Cichlids of the World,
Cichlid Systems,
Cichlid Identification,
Cichlid Behavior,
Cichlid Compatibility,
Cichlid Selection,
Cichlid Feeding,
Cichlid Disease,
Cichlid Reproduction,
|
Discus, particularly wild/collected vs. captive
produced, demand CLEAN, nutrient free water... NO ammonia, NO nitrite
and little Nitrate (less than 10 ppm for sure)
|
Discus fins black 4/17/18
Dear Sir,
<Anupam>
Two of my discus fins are turning black even water temperature is in between
86-88 F and I am changing daily 50% water change thinking if they have any
stress due to water quality it can be reduce down. For your reference I have
attached a pic also of them.
<I see this blackening and that the unpaired fins are badly frayed. What is the
pH, hardness of the water here?>
Can you please suggest me the right solution which can solve this problem.
<Need more information. Also, do you have a place to put these fish that is not
so stark? Another tank with decorations, plants? I would lower the temperature
down to the low 80's also. High temp. is not necessary or
desirable with cultured Discus>
Thanks in advance.
Yours Sincerely
Anupam
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
|
|
Discus fins black /Neale
4/18/18
Dear Sir,
Two of my discus fins are turning black even water temperature is in between
86-88 F and I am changing daily 50% water change thinking if they have any
stress due to water quality it can be reduce down.
<Could be.>
For your reference I have attached a pic also of them.
Can you please suggest me the right solution which can solve this problem.
<Typically, dark black patches are put done to exposure to ammonia. So do
check the ammonia reading of your aquarium. It should really be zero. The
water chemistry is important too. Discus need soft, acidic water to do
well. For sure the farmed ones are more adaptable, but they rarely do well
in very hard water. I'd be aiming for 1-12 degrees dH, pH 6.0-7.5. Of course
at low pH levels biological filtration operates poorly, so under-stocking is
important.>
Thanks in advance.
Yours Sincerely
Anupam
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Discus fins black /Neale
4/18/18
Hi,
thanks for the suggestion....will check the ammonia and also follow your
instruction regarding DH and PH and check and will update you the progress.
Thanks,
Anupam
<Glad to help, and good luck! Neale.>
Re: Discus fins black /RMF again 4/18/18
Hi,
<Hello again Anupam>
Thanks for your suggestions...currently i have not put plants as i have
ordered for soil and waiting for that.
<Mmm; all this, the plants, soil, should be put in weeks to months ahead of
the Symphysodon>
I read that if tank is not planted water temperature should be in between
86-88F and if tank is planted water temperature should be in between 84-86F
hence i put temperature in between 86-88F.
<For wild fishes; these are cultured>
I am not sure much about stark what you mean to say but the place where i
put the fishes is calm and quite. Kindly advise.
<Back to reading, study... at least what is posted on WWM... ALL re Discus.
They need shelter, decor... to be able to get out of the light>
PH level i will check and let you know.
Thanks,
Anupam
<Read; don't write. Bob Fenner>
|
Discus just not 'happy' :( 11/13/17
Hi Crew,
<Greetings Liese>
Apologies for the tale of woe, but the more forums I check for 'advice'
the more confused I get, so I hope you guys might be able to untangle
the reasons for my Discus being generally 'off'. So, I have a 60 gallon
(280 litre) tank with, as of the last few weeks, 4 adult Stendker discus
(had 5 for the last 3 years but recently one died, perhaps all part of
the same issue here?).
<Maybe; let's see your data>
I do 3 partial water changes a week (overall works out about 30-35% a
week), using aged tap water, treated with Prime and warmed before
adding. I used to do larger water changes (20% 3 times a week) using
water directly from the tap (I did use Prime and warm water too!) but
when my fish first started to look unhappy I was advised to age it for
24 hours, so now storage issues mean I can only change 35-40 litres at a
time.
<Storing the new water for a week (or even more) is advised>
Water parameters currently and for many months are: ammonia and nitrite
zero, nitrate somewhere between 10 and 20ppm,
<Well; I should mention, so I am... even cultured Discus don't like NO3.
I'd have you read on WWM re methods of reducing, keeping this
metabolite under 10 ppm>
pH 7, temperature 83F. I have also had the water
checked at the local fish store just in case my test kits were wrong,
but no problems there. Water out of the tap is pretty soft. I
feed a mix of beef heart, flake, pellet food.
<Mmm; I made MANY pounds of beef heart mix for my Symphysodon decades
back, but this component has largely fallen out of favour>
So, compared to a few months ago, my fish are all so much darker in
colour, almost black at times, I can see strands of slime coat
coming off a couple of them, and they're not eating with as much gusto
as previously :(
<Something wrong here. I suspect, as usual, first and foremost, issue/s
with the environment>
At various points over the last few months I've treated for Hex,
internal bacterial infection, worms, flukes,
<? All these fish have been in captivity for years? Where would
pathogens be introduced here?>
trying to eliminate obvious issues first, but nothing has made any
noticeable difference so I have to assume that there is another reason
for their stress/symptoms? I know 6 is the magic Discus number, but my 5
were always OK and I was reluctant to upset the status quo since I know
my tank is only 'just' big enough for 6.
<I would not add more to a sixty gallon>
I will get another couple if you think that will help, but I'd really
like to get to the bottom of the current issue before throwing more fish
into the unhappy mix. Since getting my discus 3 years ago, I added a
shoal of 10 Corydoras sterbai about 6-8 months ago who are doing really
well, breeding regularly (very cute babies!) and zooming around on the
tank bottom.
<Ahh, a good sign... at least conditions suit them. Am curious as to
your water temperature; as C. sterbai is a cooler water species
(typically 70-77 F) and Discus warmer>>
So, this has now got me thinking. Could all the Cory 'action' on the
bottom of the tank be upsetting my Discus?
<Doubtful, but a remote possible influence>
I'd say there is a pretty 'normal' amount of aggression between my
discus generally, although recently the biggest one has been chasing two
of the others around. Maybe now there are only 4 the hierarchy is being
re-established?
<I think you'd see over aggression here if this were so>
I'd really appreciate your advice as I'm at a point now where I don't
know what to do for the best. I have no space in my house for a bigger
tank so can't go down that route (I would if I could!), but it upsets me
to see my once-beautiful Discus shadows of their former selves :(
Thanks in advance,
Liese
<If it were my system; I'd try to systematically reason out the source
of the trouble via elimination, manipulation of one variable at a time.
Do you use chemical filtrants? Near the top of my trials, I'd use a pad
of PolyFilter, and/or a unit of ChemiPure in your filter/flow path, and
see (it should be obvious w/in a few days) if improved water quality is
an/the issue here; next... I'd raise the temperature a few degrees F.
Please do report back with your further observations. Bob Fenner>
Re: Discus just not 'happy' :( 12/5/17
Hi Bob,
An update on the Discus, wish it was good news. So, despite Polyfilter,
an increased water temperature and water changes to get nitrates well
below 10ppm, I got up this morning to find the blackest of my Discus had
died. It had seemed to perk up a bit the last couple of days and was
showing its stress bars rather than being completely black. Then last
night it was hovering close to the water surface.
<Darkness, poor body orientation... are very bad signs>
I turned up the aeration but obviously that didn’t help. No water change
yesterday so I can’t even blame that. So, of the 3 I have left, I now
have one who’s swimming slightly head down. Seems ok otherwise, eating
and out and about. I’m not treating for anything, although I do have
swim bladder medication on standby. It’s definitely not constipated.
Sorry for yet another ramble, at the moment I feel like banging my head
on a brick wall! I’ll keep up the water changes and see how these 3 get
on. On the plus side, they’re not aggressive towards each other....best
wishes. Liese
<Without knowing what, if anything, is amiss here; am wont to suggest a
change. IF they were mine, I might try adding a "black water
tonic/extract" in the hope of positively influencing water quality here.
There are a few such products, or you can make one yourself from a peat
product. Bob Fenner>
water change over done; incl. Discus sys. f' /Bob's go
12/17/16
Hi Crew & Merry Christmas!
<And to you and yours Elaine!>
My tank has been running for about three years. It has been in the
current configuration and stocking for six months. I think I
over did it with water changes.
<I see your statements below, and do agree. Nowayears water quality is a
dicey, changeable proposition. Best, as gone over (READ) here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwh2ochgs.htm
TO: pre-make up the change water and STORE for a few days, a week ahead
if this is the interval for maintenance>
In an effort to make water changes easier, I changed from the
bucket method (40% three times a week) to a hose connected to directly
to the tap and thinking that more is always better, I changed my normal
40% water change to 80%.
<Yikes!>
Then because a water change out is almost always the answer to any
issues. I did anther 80% water change using the hose. All my
discus
<Eeyikes! Symphysodon, even the much more tolerant to change modern
cultured specimens, are sensitive to water quality vacillation,
parameters outside bounds>
started flashing, turning dark and labored breathing. Since nothing but
my water change method had changed in this tank for 6 months I targeted
the water change method as the issue. After lots of research, I have
determined that by using the hose directly from the tap into the tank
without aeration I mostly likely caused three issues (1) a micro bubbles
probably compounded by the current colder temps, (2) rapid pH shift
because of the increased percentage of water changed at once, (3)
ammonia/nitrite issue because my tap water's high ammonia, nitrate and
nitrite levels <Aye ya... got to convince you to get/use a large
(Rubbermaid Brute is a fave) dedicated trash can and lid, heater,
circulating pump (that you can
use to deliver the new water as well as stir it about)... for water
changes, NOT use direct tap/mains>
and by putting it directly into the tank the Prime couldn't work fast
enough to treat the water in the tank.
Tank Information
80 US gallon
Temp 84 deg F
8 discus 3 to 3.5 inches (domestic tank bred)
6 rummy nose tetra (12 were added about 6 months ago)
6 sarbi <Sterba?> Cory cats
1 bristle nose Pleco
1 large 4 year old angel fish (favorite hobby is picking off the tetras)
Sand substrate
Moderately planted - swords and crypts
Drift wood
2 Eheim 2217 Filters
Air Stone - running at night
Feed 2 times a day - rotation of flake, frozen blood worms, sera discus
pellets, frozen baby brine
Tank
Untreated Tap
Ammonia
0
6
<?>
Nitrate
0
2
Nitrite
25
40
<The above two matters are switched around>
pH
6.5
7.5-8
KH
40
40
GH
120
120
Steps Taken
Daily water 40% water changes using buckets - for 4 days
Turned air stone on full time
Increased temp to 87 deg F
Added 2 table spoons aquarium salt with each water change
4 of the discus have fully recovered, they are eating and their color
has returned. 4 are still hanging in the back of the tank, hiding in the
plants, not eating and two of these are still very dark. I'm not sure
what my next steps should be.
Thank you,
Elaine
<Perhaps Santa is bringing you the above gear... and an RO device for
Xmas!? Bob Fenner; sending/handing off to Neale>
water change over done /Neale's go
12/17/16
Hi Crew & Merry Christmas!
My tank has been running for about three years. It has been in the
current configuration and stocking for six months. I think I over did it
with water changes. In an effort to make water changes easier, I changed
from the bucket method (40% three times a week) to a hose connected to
directly to the tap and thinking that more is always better, I changed
my normal 40% water change to 80%. Then because a water change out is
almost always the answer to any issues. I did anther 80% water change
using the hose. All my discus started flashing, turning dark and labored
breathing. Since
nothing but my water change method had changed in this tank for 6 months
I targeted the water change method as the issue. After lots of research,
I have determined that by using the hose directly from the tap into the
tank without aeration I mostly likely caused three issues (1) a micro
bubbles probably compounded by the current colder temps, (2) rapid pH
shift because of the increased percentage of water changed at once, (3)
ammonia/nitrite issue because my tap water's high ammonia, nitrate and
nitrite levels and by putting it directly into the tank the Prime
couldn't work fast enough to
treat the water in the tank.
Tank Information
80 US gallon
Temp 84 deg F
8 discus 3 to 3.5 inches (domestic tank bred)
6 rummy nose tetra (12 were added about 6 months ago)
6 sarbi Cory cats
<Sterbai? As in Corydoras sterbai? An excellent companion for Discus.>
1 bristle nose Pleco
1 large 4 year old angel fish (favorite hobby is picking off the tetras)
<Ah yes, this is what they do, as I have warned aquarists, many times;
these cichlids *are* predators. Not necessarily good companions for
Discus though; somewhat different water chemistry requirements (white
vs. blackwater) and certainly more pushy. Altum Angels might be okay
though.
Would beware of introducing diseases from Angels to Discus; Angels do
seem resistant/immune to some pathogens that Discus are not.>
Sand substrate
Moderately planted - swords and crypts
Drift wood
2 Eheim 2217 Filters
<Excellent filters.>
Air Stone - running at night
<Interesting, but logical.>
Feed 2 times a day - rotation of flake, frozen blood worms, sera discus
pellets, frozen baby brine
Tank
Untreated Tap
Ammonia
0
6
<Are you saying there's 0 ammonia in the tank, but 0.6 mg/l in the tap
water?>
Nitrate
0
2
Nitrite
25
40
<If you mean the tank has 0.25 mg/l nitrite, whereas the tap water has
0.4 mg/l, I'd still be wary of this; even trace nitrite *is* a stress
factor, more so in acidic pH conditions than alkaline -- the opposite of
ammonia, which is less toxic in acidic conditions.>
pH
6.5
7.5-8
KH
40
40
GH
120
120
Steps Taken
Daily water 40% water changes using buckets - for 4 days
Turned air stone on full time
Increased temp to 87 deg F
Added 2 table spoons aquarium salt with each water change
4 of the discus have fully recovered, they are eating and their color
has returned. 4 are still hanging in the back of the tank, hiding in the
plants, not eating and two of these are still very dark. I'm not sure
what my next steps should be.
<Well, I'd stop feeding altogether until nitrite is zero. I'd be
focusing on biological filtration here, given ammonia is zero but
nitrite is above zero. Check water flow, check the media, and if
necessary give one of the filters a thorough clean this weekend, and the
other the same next weekend (I'd not do both at the same time). Rinse
media in buckets of tank water,
rather than tap water, so the filter media bacteria aren't stressed in
any way. But do squeeze sponges until the water runs through them as
clear as you can. Optimise water flow rate: the maximum flow with the
minimum turbulence. This might mean using spray bars, reverse flow
undergravel filters or something else to distribute current evenly.
Review stocking
density, feeding frequency, and remove any decaying organic matter.>
Thank you,
Elaine
<Cheers, Neale.>
discus has always been sick 5/15/12
hi I bought 4 discus five months ago and one was hiding and black
coloured I only took it because I felt sorry for it and thought he
would do better if it was in my aquarium .it has grown slightly in this
time as I ensure that I drop food where it is hiding. I have spent
days searching for advice but not spotted anything suitable for my
problem
<Indeed?>
It would flash it colours at times when the mood took it, but now
its
colour has gone white all over its body, the fins have just a touch of
blue in them but very little, its fins are erect
<Discus only behave normally (and show bright colours) when they are
"happy", by which I mean they are [a] kept in the right environmental
conditions and [b] kept with the right tankmates. Let's be clear about
how demanding Discus are. These aren't community fish! They are best
kept ALONE, and no-one should think about adding tankmates before
keeping them on their own for a good six months first. Just keeping
Discus happy is difficult, so adding tankmates makes life more difficult
that it needs to be. Secondly, they are fairly demanding in terms of
water chemistry and water quality. They must have soft water, or at
least, not hard water. By that I mean something like 2-12 degrees dH, pH
6-7 for the standard farmed varieties. Water quality needs to be
excellent: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and less than 20 mg/l nitrate.
Actually, virtually all cichlids need similarly good water quality, and
virtually all cichlids will sicken if kept exposed to nitrate levels
above 20 mg/l (as is often the case with tap water in urban/suburban
areas, and almost always the case in Southern England where I live).>
all ph etc .etc are spot on
<Meaning what? I really do need your numbers here, not your
interpretations. See above for what they should be.>
and the other 5 discus, 3 clown loaches and two dwarf gouramis are in
wonderful condition,
<I hope this aquarium is huge! Clown Loaches pump out massive amounts of
waste, and unless we're talking 200 Imperial gallons/900 litres, it's
unlikely you can provide good water quality for BOTH the Clown Loaches
and the Discus.>
all fed 4-5 times a day, partial water change 20+ % 1-2 times weekly
temp 29c
<Would dial this down to 28 C outside of wanting to breed them.>
I have never seen any excrement from any of the fish but with what they
eat there must be lots coming out.
<Perhaps.>
in a 4ft tank 189 litres 42 uk gallons the two red Turks are now
double its size and nearly adults.
<Much too small for all these fish. Do be aware that only a *mated* pair
of Discus will cohabit. Otherwise, keep a singleton or a group of six.
In groups of 2-5 specimens, Discus usually end up with one bully and the
rest being bullied. You may not see the bullying (some of it is
chemical) but you'll surely see one dominant fish and the others staying
smaller, eating less, and displaying their stress colours, typically
darker with vertical bands.>
its a peaceful tank for having discus in it.
<Hmm…>
heavy planted and oxygenated ( aerated ). spend most of my nights
searching for signs of what sexes I have in there, there are two other
blue discus in there but they have grown a bigger size should I take it
out to my other tank 6 ft which has Mollies and Guppies in it ( for
maturing of water purpose? nothing new in there thanks for any
advice given , sorry no photo
<Mollies and Guppies need fundamentally different water chemistry to
Discus. I do need the water chemistry values to say something specific
about these systems, and their usefulness for Discus.>
regards Laurie
<Do believe stress, incorrect care are likely to blame here. Hope this
helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: discus has always been sick 5/16/12
hello Neale
<Laurie,>
this little fish was purchased from a tank with 50 or more discus and
was the only one that was not happy and hungry. I kept discus
years ago and with out any problems. I apologize for not sending you the
water parameters but since they were within all specifications it did
not seem to matter Again Sorry Poor excuse I know..
Temp. 27 now was kept high to induce breeding ( hopefully)
<I see.>
GH 30
<Very high! Much too high for Discus.>
KH 0
<Too low. Would be surprised if the pH is stable. Are you using a pH
buffer?>
Ph 6 with peat
<I would not adjust pH using peat. How do you know the pH is stable?
Plus, below pH 6, filter bacteria stop working.>
No2 oo5
<Do you mean 0.5? Do believe your biological filtration is borderline…
filter bacteria work better above 6.5, and ideally you shouldn't allow
the pH to go below 7 unless there's a damn good reason. Discus will be
fine at pH 7, provided the hardness isn't excessive, say, 5-10 degree
dH.>
No3 10
<Fine.>
I find it annoying how most people use different measurements ( ppm ,etc
) very confusing for a lay person ( My problem, Suck it up as they say.)
<Well, not for me to say… I do prefer the simpler units -- degrees dH or
KH for hardness. But so long as you know what them mean qualitatively,
i.e., "soft", "hard", and shades in between, that's fine! Likewise, with
nitrite, nitrate and ammonia, so long as you know what's good and what's
bad, use whatever you want.>
The fish is looking fine today, with as usual, fins extended (showing
much more colour on the fins and white on the facial bones only now) and
in the mid to high water table
I have been cycling my new tank for two months now so with the baby
guppies in there for a change of diet It now gets ox heart, fish flakes,
frozen brine shrimp, dried food, raw prawns, and blood worms.
<Fine.>
I keep looking out for the old strains of discus but all we seem to get
here in Aus. is the modern strains without any bars on their sides (
although I do have a old style brown one which I love dearly
don't recall where I got him from ,probably just a throwback to the wild
varieties
<Yes.>
I am still hopeful of this sick one getting its health back to increase
the numbers of breeding fish, never had any success before but the
numbers 3 or 4 probably was to blame for it
<Could be. Getting groups of six does seem to be the magic number for
getting stable schools of Discus, and from those six, there's a good
chance of at least one of each sex.>
On another thing ( while I've got you) how many breeding discus can my 6
ft tank 63.40 UK gallons take.?
<A group of six will be fine in there… but a matched pair of breeding
cichlids, even Discus, could take over that tank. You might be okay if
their "nest" is at one end of the tank. But if their nest is in the
middle … it could be trouble for the other Discus!>
Again you guys are wonderful
Many thanks and kisses
Laurie
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
discus problem... STILL NOT
READING 5/6/11
HI
Bob
<Amit>
I am located in India. I have a 4 juvenile discus housed in a 20 gallon
tank. I do 40 percent water changes after every 3 days. I siphon off
the feces also. All my water parameters are normal.
<Need actual values (numbers)... for what is tested>
The temp of water during summer is 31-32 degrees.
Recently one of my discus is swimming erratically and sometimes upside
down or lying flat in the corner or either hiding. He is also refusing
to eat.
<Very bad signs, symptoms. Have you read where you've repeatedly
been referred to on WWM?>
Can you let me know the reason behind this and also suggest me an
appropriate treatment for my discus.
<Likely environmental... Again, and hopefully for the last time,
READ on WWM re Symphysodon:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/discusfish.htm
and the linked files above. B>
Thanks in advance
Amit
Question... FW, Discus sys.
issues... overcrowded, metabolite build-up...
8/20/10
Hi,
<Hi Max! Melinda here tonight!>
I have read your F.Q but I need help for the following.
<Okay.>
I have 75l freshwater fish tank with 13 Discus, 2 Angels & 1
Betta.
<Is this tank 75 liters, as in less than 20 gallons? Or am I not
understanding correctly?>
I use conditioned tap water 7.6 ph, Ammonia: 0.25, Nitrite: 0.25 &
Nitrate around 80.00 ( I have not been able to bring it down ).
<The Nitrate is a problem, but the Ammonia and Nitrite worry me
more: for some reason (likely overstocking, if my above guess on the
volume of the tank is correct), this tank isn't cycling. Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwestcycling.htm.>
I add salt with every water change.
<How much are you adding? Salt can be used to detoxify Nitrate if
you're adding it in the correct amounts with water changes. Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/SaltUseFWArtNeale.htm.
Otherwise, I'm not sure what the salt is for.>
Recently I am losing only Discus. They start being in the corners,
develop fin damage, white patches on the body & not feeding &
eventually die...
<Various issues due to water quality/overstocking.>
I even had one dead with hole(scare) in the head & another one
suddenly lost balance & it was up-side-down for two days until it
died. One of them has darkened in colour.
The rest of Discus seems to be o.k. with no visible signs of illness
but they are not active like any other Discus.
<Your fish are in bad shape. Is this tank really only 75 liters? The
fish can't possibly be full-grown, if so, they literally
wouldn't be able to
move. In any case, your problems likely lie in the numbers you gave me
above for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. The tank is overstocked, and
your maintenance may also be lacking... please read here on
maintenance:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwmaint.htm.>
Please help me urgently...
<Max, there's certainly something wrong with your system, and
it's causing your fish to fall ill. That "something" is
the water they live in. This can be due to a number of issues,
including the following: fail to cycle properly in the first place,
overstocking, overfeeding, lack of proper filtration, and/or lack of
proper maintenance. I think most of these are covered in the links
above, but here is a link on filtration:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwfiltration.htm.
In addition, what cannot be ruled out at this point is that your source
water is introducing Nitrate into the system. Do test your source water
to help gain clues as to what could be causing poor water quality.
However, with this stocking list, I wouldn't doubt that your
Nitrate would be as high as it is, even if you do regular
maintenance.>
with regards
Max
<I hope this helps, Max. Please do write back if you have further
questions after reading.
--Melinda><<Well done Melinda. BobF>>
Re: DISCUS AND AMMONIA SPIKE AFTERMATH... induced
Discus prob.s, hypochondria... reading 2/1/08 Hi , thanks for
your response <... where is the prev. corr.?> to my ammonia issue
I bought the AmQuel + and that has resolved the ammonia( chloramine in
my tap water at H20 changes), can I use this everyday at water changes
the bottle says to wait 24 hours between applications and since I need
to do wc everyday is it ok. <Can be used daily, continuously if
necessary> Second question is I noticed that one of my discus has
two small white spots on his caudal fin, treated with combo formalin
and malachite green per directions for three days (whole tank) <!?
VERY toxic... I would NOT place formalin in a biological system>
with wc of 20% each day, also the carbon was removed. <Likely all
your biological filtration/nitrifiers have been wiped out> However
on the second day of treatment I noticed that the fish looked like they
had Finrot and on two of them they appeared to have swollen abdomens,
as well as red around the nose area. <Effects of formalin poisoning
and nitrogenous waste exposure...> I did a 65% wc and replaced the
carbon. My nitrites spiked to 0.3mg/l and the ph was at 7.8 which is
normally 7.6. I should mention that the tank was setup in late Sept.
and was cycled properly (AQUACLEAR 110) but I live in an area where we
are experiencing more frequent power outages and I am not always at
home so the time the filter is down is not always noted. I have a 75
gal, with two filters a BioWheel 330 and a AquaClear 110 the latter was
the original and it was the one that I turned off (fear of media had
become anaerobic) after an outage of 4 hours in late Dec. <Likely
so> which meant the BioWheel was only cycled for about 3 weeks and
on its own. I Have since put some filter media in from a well
established tank on Tues. of this week can't find BioSpira even on
the Marineland site says error when click to buy. Could this and the
combo of the ammonia (that is in tap water) spike caused this problem
in my tank with my fish. <Yes> Could it be a bacterial infection.
<Is this a question?> This is all the symptoms that my fish are
displaying dark colored, clamped fins, as of today they don't look
swollen in the abdomen, Finrot looks a little better gave 1 treatment
of parasite clear tank buddies by jungle active ingred. ( Praziquantel,
Diflubenzuron, Metronidazole and Acriflavine) <... for?> and
redness around their nose area. What to do next I haven't done
anymore Rx only added salt <? On Symphysodon? A poor idea> and
have kept lights off and feeding sparingly they haven't seemed to
have lost their appetite at all. Thanks in advance. <Uhh, I'd
stop pouring in medications (you're killing these animals with
same) and invest your money and time in educating yourself... There are
quite a few good Discus books about, and some useful information on the
Net re the genus. Ours:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/discusfish.htm and the linked
files above. Bob Fenner>
Wild discus problem
10/2/07 I have kept a 33 gallon tank with 3 discus, 2 black
ghost knives 3 Panchax killifish and 1 black spotted catfish for
over 3 years. I fed them a variety of foods because my wild
discus had a lot of holes in his head. Last month, I added two
snakeskin discus in there and they all got along well. Then the
trouble started with the smallest discus not eating. He
wasn't the one being bullied ,the wild one was. Soon he
passed away. The tank was very clean and all but soon my wild
discus stopped eating too. All my discus are the same size
(11.5cm). I've moved the wild discus into a 20 gallon with a
bio wheel and some water plants to see if it gets better.
I've been trying to feed him beef heart, Whiteworms, Mysis
shrimp, brine shrimp and bloodworms but he refuses them all and
just hides in the corner. I would like to know what's wrong
because I would hate to see it die. <Well, for a start your
tank is massively overstocked. Apteronotus albifrons gets to
something like 50 cm in length and mature specimens at least
(like most electric fish) are intolerant of their own kind under
home aquarium conditions. So you simply can't keep two of
them in one tank, and even one specimen of this fish needs a big
tank (150-200 cm long). You don't say anything about water
chemistry or water quality. But just to be clear: wild-caught
Discus are EXTREMELY sensitive to environmental conditions.
Comparing them to tank-bred Discus is comparing chalk with
cheese. Utterly different. Tank-bred Discus are basically easy to
keep provided they are kept warm (28-30 C) and in not-too-hard
(<10 dH), acidic to neutral (pH 6-7) water. Wild-caught Discus
want all that and MORE: spotlessly clean water with next to no
nitrate, dim lighting conditions, and no aggressive tankmates.
You also need to be able to select healthy wild-caught fish to
begin with; get a sick one, and you've wasted your money.
When shopping for wild Discus, I consider going along with an
experienced Discus-keeper part of the package. The holes in the
head of the fish that died were symptoms (more than likely) of
Hole-in-the-Head, a protozoan infection intimately connected with
water quality. So before going further, make sure your nitrate
levels are below 20 mg/l, and ideally zero. Quarantine all
wild-caught fish before putting them into a community system, and
assume that any commercially spawned fish are potential sources
of infection. In other words, don't mix wild and tank-bred
Discus. Do read Bob's excellent review of "Discus
Basics" here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/discusfish.htm .
As he says, lack of appetite is usually associated with poor
environmental conditions. So check those, and act accordingly.
Cheers, Neale>
Re: wild discus problem -- 11/20/07 After
reading your reply about my wild discus problem, I decided to get
rid of the nitrates in my tank. I moved out the ghost knives,
catfish and killifish from the tank to a 20 gallon. <I hope I
don't need to tell you the ghost Knifefish (Apteronotus
albifrons, presumably) are far too large for a 20 gallon tank.
While they may grow slowly, they do grow, and each one is going
to need a 55 gallon tank -- at least -- at some point in the near
future.> I also moved back in the wild discus to the 33 gallon
with the other 3 discus. I also bought more water plants and
Nitrazorb. <Nitrazorb can work, but in my experience it is
more of a "polisher" than a nitrate
"cleaner". In other words, what it does is help remove
traces of nitrate from water with low nitrate concentration to
start with. When used in a nitrate-ridden system (because of
heavy stocking, or high nitrates in the tap water supply) it
tends to get overwhelmed unless you spend a fortune on the stuff.
It is much more cost effective to use pure water of some sort and
then add the minerals Discus need. The cheap option is to use
rainwater (what I do) while the convenient option is to use a
reverse-osmosis (RO) filter to purify your tap water. We have a
brand spanking new article about Soft Water Aquaria here at WWM;
have a read of it. I'm sure you'll find it useful,
because a soft water tank is basically the only way to keep wild
Discus. The article is here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsoftness.htm > For
feeding I feed a block of bloodworms and glassworms a day.
<For Discus, this may well be too much. Discus have evolved to
live in nutrient-poor waters where food is scarce. With
wild-caught fish especially, you have to walk a tightrope between
providing enough food to keep them healthy, while not adding so
much the water quality is compromised. With wet-frozen foods, a
lot of the "cube" doesn't get eaten (the juices
surrounding the bloodworms for example). These are sources of
nitrate. So you need to make sure your feeding regimen is such
that every scrap of food that goes into the tank is eaten, and
nothing gets sucked into the filter.> The nitrate is 160, and
the nitrite is 0. <Yeah, your nitrate level is way too high
for wild Discus. Even for tank-bred fish this likely on the
dangerous side. You're aiming for not more than 50 mg/l for
tank-bred Discus, and less than 20 mg/l for wild fish. I think
you'll find an RO filter or rainwater collection system on
your Christmas list.> I even changed the water 3 days in a
row. To my dismay my nitrate was still 160+. <Almost certainly
your tap water has high nitrates to begin with. Here in England,
it isn't uncommon for urban water supply to have 50 mg/l
nitrate right out the tap. As a result, in a busy aquarium or one
stocked with messy fish, like Goldfish or Cichlids, it's hard
to get the nitrate level below 75-100 mg/l. With rainwater or RO,
on other hand, it's easy.> The wild discus is still not
eating and my parents are mad because I used to much money. <I
bet! Collecting rainwater is dirt cheap and also very
"green", so buy buying a water butt to store rainwater
you're actually doing something responsible. If your water
supply is metered, i.e., you pay by the amount you use, then you
will quickly save money in the long term.> Am I overfeeding ?
<Quite possibly. Halve the rations, and feed only every other
day. See what happens. Fish almost never starve to death. They
need a fraction of the food you might think. An adult Discus can
probably get by on half a dozen bloodworms per day.> Am I
doing something wrong or am I looking at the wrong cause for my
wild discus not eating? <Water quality *is* the issue. Read
the article linked above, and then read Bob's primer on
keeping Discus (it's linked at the end of that article). The
review your system. And differences between what we're
talking about in those articles and what you have at home are
likely at the heart of the problem. Discus aren't difficult
fish once their demands are met -- but they are demanding!>
Thank you for your help. <Happy to help. Neale>
|
Discus dying after water
changes 6/28/07 Hi Crew, <Hi Eric, MacL here with you
tonight.> You have answered some questions about this tank in the
past and they have been very helpful. A quick recap: 72 gallon planted
fw tank 26 cardinal tetras 2 Otos Numerous Malaysian trumpet and other
snails ( Originally ) 3 Discus, app. 3" The tank has been running
with current inhabitants since last fall. pH - 6.8, 0 ammonia,
nitrites, nitrates. Temp runs at 80 (I need a second heater to combat
the a/c), all fish quarantined prior to introduction. Feeding consists
of TetraMin flakes, Spirulina (for the Otos and snails), tetra color
bits, and various frozen cubes ( thawed first ). Filter is an Aquaclear
110 running a sponge, carbon and peat. Water changes are approximately
25% weekly, more if I have the time. Everything was running fine for
the last six months - even the cardinals are large, plump and active
with no losses. My problem concerns the discus - which were bought from
local breeders (and raised in local tap water). I had lost one to
bullying from the other two a few months back, but the remaining two
were doing well and I planned on adding a couple of more after I move
in the summer. <Just a quick word of caution here. Full grown discus
are approximately plate sized and your tank is going to be very full
when they get totally grown.> Unfortunately, I lost both (first last
month, second one today) remaining discus. Each one died after a water
change (or at least within a couple of days but symptoms appeared same
day) leading me to believe that caused it. Since I don't have space
in my current home to store water (in a container big enough for my
needs), I add water directly from the tap using a Python tube. I first
adjust the temperature so it is close to the tank, and as I add the
water I also add dechlorinator ( I am not sure f I have chlorine or
chloramines in the water but I will find out. Regardless the
dechlorinator says it takes care of both). <You have to watch those
dechlorinators that say that because sometimes they only take care of
the chlorine in the water and not both. By splitting the chloramines up
they think they are taken care of.> This has worked for me until
now, and I haven't lost any of the Otos or cardinal tetras, which I
took as a good sign since I know they are very delicate. <Definitely
the cardinals are. And you are right you'd think if it was the
chlorines it would bother them as well.> After doing these changes,
though, I noticed that one of the discus over the next few hours turned
very dark, listless, and gasping at the surface. <Major red flag
when they turn dark. That's a very unhappy discus.> If it
wasn't at the surface, it would just float around. At first I
didn't think it had anything to do with the WC since only one was
affected. It died the next day. Now, a month later, the same thing
happened to my second discus. <For me several things come to mind.
So I need to ask you some questions. First, Do you know the ph of your
tap water? If it is drastically high and the ph of your tank water you
could be seriously messing with your discus when the water first goes
in. Second, How old are your ph test kits? I'm really surprised
that with peat in your water your ph is as high as it is. Honestly it
should be lower if you are running peat in the water. A lower ph is
fine for the discus and for the cardinals. If it is the ph then it
wouldn't effect the cardinals nearly as much as the discus. In my
experience they seem to adjust to ph changes with ease once they are
good and healthy. Whereas a discus, again in my experience, once they
get stressed can go very quickly. Thirdly, when you do your water
change are you rinsing out your sponge? This could also be where your
problem is. I used an AquaClear filter and I cut the sponge in half, so
one water change I could rinse out one half and the second I could
rinse out the other half but I always kept some of the beneficial
bacteria in the sponges. Also do you change your carbon every time? Or
rinse it as well?> Do you think it is from my water changing
technique? If so, what can you recommend? Please note that I wont have
the facilities to store more than 5 or 10 gallons of water until I move
at the end of the summer. <Nothing wrong with doing smaller water
changes with stored water that is correctly set to the proper ph and
doing them more frequently if possible. I know that lots of people
might disagree with this but I prefer to keep my tank as stable as
possible and I found that with Discus doing large water changes just
plain messed with the tanks.> I currently have four juvenile discus
in quarantine and don't want to add them until the problem is
solved. <How are you doing their water changes? Good luck Eric,
MacL> Thanks again, Eric
Re: Discus dying after water changes
-- 07/01/07 Dear MacL, <Hiya Eric> Thanks for your quick
response. To answer your questions: How do I know if the dechlorinator
actually takes care of chloramines? What is the proper way to treat
water for chloramines? <Well the tricky part is that some removers
that say they take care of chloramines often will only break the
chloramine apart and leave the remnant of whatever it doesn't touch
in there. For instance, if it breaks apart the chloramine it might
leave the ammonia in the tank. OR it might take out the ammonia and
leave the chlorine. Honestly the safest way is to go to a good pet
store and get a brand that says it removes all of the above, I've
used prime myself for years but lots of good products out there.> (
I am writing to the NYC water board to ascertain whether they add
chloramines). <You should be able to find the answer to this online
as well, on the cities website.> The pH of the tap water tends to
run close to 7.0, slightly above or below at times. One of my pH test
kits is about two or more years old but the other is a year old and
they both give the same results so I am not too concerned.
<HMMMMMMMM> The reason that I added peat was because when I redid
this tank as a planted tank last year, I added Tahitian Black Moon
Sand. <Honestly I have used that product many times in fresh and
salt and have never had it affect the ph. What else do you have in the
tank? Anything like shells?> The manufacturer claims that it
doesn't affect the pH, but it did cause mine to rise above 7.4, so
I added the peat as a buffer. I also usually added Seachem acid buffer
but haven't done that for a few months because a.) my pH started to
stabilize and I wanted to see if the buffer was still needed to
maintain it, and b.) I thought that perhaps adding the buffer to the
tank as I was adding fresh water might have caused a sharp drop in the
tank pH and killed my first discus. <I did consider that a
possibility with the deaths of both of your discus because of their
behavior.> I am not as diligent with my filter material as I perhaps
should be. I change it not more frequently then monthly and sometimes
less so. I try not to change all media at once, and I do the same thing
as you with my sponge. I did change the carbon with my last WC because
it was way overdue but I did not change the rest. I also rinsed the
intake sponge (it helps keep plants from getting sucked in and provides
some more surface area while at it for bacteria). <I really think
that you had some kind of ph shift. That's why I suggested that you
do the smaller and more frequent water changes. I would recommend two
five gallon buckets that you adjust the water to the proper ph before
hand so you don't have any changes with your discus. They really
don't seem to be as delicate as they once were but they are still
not easy fish to keep. And I'm really concerned about the fact that
you have peat added and your ph is still so high. When I added peat to
my discus tanks I went down to pHs of 5.> The new discus were placed
in a quarantine tank that has been running for a while. I did need to
add a bucketful of water, but it was dechlorinated first (the tank is
10 gallons so its not a problem) and I added BioSpira to kick start the
cycle (Does that stuff expire?). <There are expiration dates on the
packaging I believe.> I plan on keeping them in there for at least
two or three weeks and hope to have this problem solved before then. I
think I will try to do more frequent, but less voluminous, water
changes. Do you think that I would still need to store/dechlorinate
that water or can I add it directly to the tank along with
dechlorinator (lets say 10% WC )? <Safest is to add it before hand
although most are instantaneous.> What dechlorinator do you
recommend? The breeder recommended Dechloreez but I never heard of it.
<I've never heard of dechloreez either. If it was me and I was
doing this with Discus I would try to figure out what the heck is going
on before I moved the new fish over. Based on their actions I feel like
it was either ph shifting dramatically or it was chlorine and ammonia.
I promise I am not trying to insult you but does your ph test kit test
low? Does it go to low ph's? I think your new plan of action should
take care of the problems for you. If you do it slower with less water
change you shouldn't have any problems with the big dramatic
shifts. Good luck Eric, let me know how it goes.> Thanks again,
Hole in the Head on Discus/plant questions
4/17/04 Hi Crew, <Hi Eric , Pufferpunk here> Thanks
for your past help and running a great site. <You're very
welcome!> I am hoping you can give me some advice with this issue. I
have a 72 gallon FW heavily planted tank housing 26 cardinal tetras, 1
Ram, 2 Otos, and 3 captive bred discus (about 3' lengthwise). All
were added over the space of a few months, quarantined and
prophylactically treated (I have to look up the protocol if you it is
needed) for 2-4 weeks. The filter is a Aquaclear 110 running with
Zeolite, peat moss in pantyhose, carbon and sponge. <I don't
think this is enough filtration for that tank. On tanks
larger than 50g, I would add a canister like an Eheim.> Everything
is changed about once a month and the sponge is cut in half so only
half is changed at a time. The heater is not on since the ambient temp
plus heat from the lamps (220w PC run for 2 bulbs on 12 hrs/ the other
two only on for 6) keeps the water between 76 and 78 deg F (cooler end
at night). <Discus need to be kept at much higher temps: 84-86
degrees.> There are a bunch of Malaysian trumpet snails and some
type of small snail that looks more typical and hitchhiked on plants (I
don't mind since they leave my plants alone as long as I drop in
some Spirulina every now and then). I usually try to do a
20-25% water change every two weeks but with a new baby its hard.
<Discus need 90% weekly water changes. Discus breeders do
100% daily!> Since the tank is lightly stocked and heavily planted
the parameters stay good anyways. My latest param.s are (nighttime) --
pH 6.6, total Ammonia -- 0, KH -- 3 dKH, 6 dGH, nitrates -- 0, nitrites
-0, phosphates 1 mg/L. I dose Seachem Excel and Flourish once a week
and add Seachem Acid buffer at water changes (tap water here is soft,
but the Tahitian Moon sand contrary to their statements raised my pH
and hardness). <Parameters sound good but there are things we
can't test for in our tanks. Tank-raised discus
don't need all those pH lowering additives. They are
born into normal tap water. I use none of this & only
add Prime during water changes. Carbon really isn't
necessary either. I wonder if you are getting pH
swings?> Now here are my questions: One of discus (they
were purchased in early December and quarantined for 3-4 weeks) has
developed what I think is Hole in the Head. At first it looked like an
enlarged nare but now I see that it has enlarged further and deepened.
It doesn't exhibit any other signs or symptoms that I am aware of.
It eats fine (I feed a mixture of live blackworms, fruit flies, flakes,
frozen assortment, which is thawed under running water first) and
pellets and still keeps its rank in the pecking order. I have read on
your site and others that some think that HITH is caused by poor water
quality and others think it is a bacterial infection (I believe that it
is probably a combination, no?). <Actually a
parasite. Poor water conditions lower a fish's immune
system, making it more susceptible to disease.> I have read all
kinds of treatment suggestions from Maracyn to Melafix (which I doubt
has any value). <I swear by Melafix for minor bacterial problems,
scratches, small wounds & frayed fins. Definitely helps
quicken the healing, along with stronger meds for worse
problems. HITH is a parasite--flagellate protozoa, called
Hexamita. Treatment: Adding a chemical to kill the Hexamita
(Flubendazole, eSHa - Hexamita, Waterlife - OCTOZIN, Seachem -
Metronidazole CLOUT, Fluke-Tabs, Aquatronics - Hex-a-mit, etc.) and
secondary bacterial infection (Melafix).> I just did a water change
and pruned out a bunch of overgrown Java moss and shook out some of the
rest and a bunch of sediment came out but my param.s were fine before
the water change so I don't know if that is the problem. Anyway, my
dilemma is do I just sit and watch right now? <Could get worse.>
Do I quarantine and treat? <I'd treat the whole
tank. Parasites can be contagious. Anti-parasitic
meds & Melafix will not harm your biological filtration.> I am
afraid of stressing the fish out but on the other hand, I can't
treat the whole tank and anyways none of the other fish are exhibiting
any problems. Do I add some kind of vitamin supplement to its food (I
saw that recommended here)? If so, how and what do I add? <I soak
all my fish's foods (even live blackworms) with Zoe vitamins. A lot
of folks believe this parasite comes from feeding live foods,
especially live worms. I have been feeding live worms to all
my fish for years but I check the batch at the LFS, before
it's bagged up. If there are a lot of dead worms, I
don't buy them. I rinse well in a brine shrimp net, add
1/4" water & a few flakes, along with some drops of vitamins
& let sit overnight in the refrigerator. The next day, I
pour into the net again & throw out any dead worms on the bottom of
the container. I do this daily.> I really put a lot into
this tank and the fish and everything looks beautiful. It is my first
attempt at discus and I would hate to lose this fish. I am looking
forward to your advice. <There is nothing more beautiful &
peaceful than a planted discus tank. ~PP> Sincerely, Eric
New York City
Adding to one of yesterday's answers, Discus
hlth., sys. 4/19/07 Hello there Crew,
<Nicole> I hope you don't mind, but I feel compelled to add
to an answer. It's "Hole in the Head on Discus/plant
questions 4/17/04" which was answered very adeptly by
Pufferpunk. <Please do> For Eric's discus, perhaps he could
try medicated flakes such as those offered by flguppiesplus? Here's
a link to flakes containing Metronidazole: http://flguppiesplus.safeshopper.com/256/cat256.htm?5
<Thank you for this lead, link> I also wondered why Eric would
have Zeolite for chemical filtration in his tank, instead of activated
carbon or a carbon resin blend. <Me too> Probably unrelated to
the HLLE his discus are experiencing, but I would still switch out that
Zeolite for a bag of Chemi-Pure, if it were my setup. My thoughts on
Zeolite, Ammo Chips, etc. were that these interfered with the
nitrifying bacteria - however, I notice some folks use these instead
of, or along with, carbon. Your thoughts? Thanks for listening! Nicole
<I am in agreement. Thank you for sharing. I do hope Eric will see
this... and do know that many others will over many years, and that
your effort will help them and their livestock. Bob
Fenner>
Strange Discus illness... nutr.,
algal/env...? 2/27/07 Hello <Hi there> I have a
75gallon Discus tank. I have it fairly heavily planted, with Co2
injection and a PH controller. I also have 260watts of compact
fluorescent lighting. I change the water once a week, about 15 to 25%
each time and once a month I do a more in depth cleaning and 30% - 40%
water change. I have only had these fish in the tank for about two
months now. The tank itself has been running for about 6 months or more
now. I did a 25 or 30% water change yesterday afternoon, and trimmed
some planted that had some bad algae growth and cleaned the Fluval
filter pads and trays. <All sounds good thus far... but the
algae...> Then fed the fish about an hour later. Everyone was fine
when I went to bed last night. I woke up this morning, and found one of
my larger discus floating upside down in the corner. When I looked in
at him he moved back out of the corner and got upright, and then swam
down to the bottom with the others. Then I realized he was swollen or
bulging around is stomach area, and had difficulty swimming, and once
floated rig ht to the top of the tank. When I left for work, he was
back in the corner, but right side up this time. <Mmmm> I have no
idea what this could be or how I caused this. I did recently started
feed live black worms, as I have one smaller discus in there that
won't eat anything but live food and small amounts of flake foods.
All the discus eat the worms. <Usually... with gusto!> Yesterday
though, I did have a problem with the worms, but it didn't seem to
be an issue. I took the out of the fridge, and found that they had
gotten frozen solid. I thought they were dead for sure. But I rinsed
them with cold water a few times, and the ice melted away slowly, and
to my surprise the worms were in fact alive and moving. so I rinsed
them a few more times and let them sit. they looked totally normal and
healthy, so I fed them to my discus and my angels and rams in another
tank. The other tank is doing just fine, and so are all the other
discus, including the one that doesn't eat much. Any ideas what
this is and how I can treat the discus and hopefully not lose him? more
tank info incase its needed... PH - 6.80 Ammonia - 0ppm Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 0ppm to 5ppm GH - about 6 KH - about 3 or 4 <This all
looks good as well> I have eco complete as my substrate with a very
small amount of gravel on the top of that mainly for color. Filtration
is a Fluval 405 filter, with one tray full of bio media, another with
zeolite and peat, and another with lava grains. also have co2 injection
on a PH controller and 260watts of light. The only thing I am not using
is RO water. I do plan to use this ASAP, as soon as I can afford one.
<Mmm, depends on whatever else may be in your tap... but the
measures you give are fine... esp. for tank-bred specimens (vs.
wild-caught)> Thanks for any help you may offer!!!! <Mmm... well,
I suspect the blackworms... as you appear to as well... Maybe the one
fish "got a tummy-ache" from these being "not quite
right"... But more so, I am wondering re the algae that you
mention on the plants... there are a few types that are quite toxic to
aquatic life... in particular in new/er set-ups... I do encourage you
to add a bit of GAC (granulated activated carbon) in a Dacron bag... in
your canister filter, AND I do encourage you to add something more/else
in the way of filtration... another canister or hang-on power filter...
You need more, redundant bio-filtration here... Bob
Fenner>
FW, high pH... Discus... No
useful info. 9/22/06 Hi We have a couple of
Solid Blue breeders, our PH has risen to 7.7, <?> one
of the breeders has gone dark, sits in the corner, breaths
heavy. I didn't think he would still be here on Monday
let alone today (not looking to good) We have tried to get
the PH down, <How...?> but no joy. Can you suggest
anything I have been doing 25% water changes each day. Thanks Julie
<Mmm... are you familiar with Alkalinity/Alkaline reserve? Please
read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwph,alk.htm and the
linked files above... Would be worthwhile to have test kits, measures
for kH, GH... to go along with such expensive fish. It may be that your
source water needs to be filtered... perhaps Reverse Osmosis... and
then blended with some original water for "some" mineral
content... Bob Fenner>
Troubles With New Discus 1/1/06 Hello again,
Crew, How have the Holidays been? < So far, so good.> Ours have
been stressful. We've had a group of 6 discus (3--1" fish,
2--2", and 1--2.5") in quarantine since the Thursday before
Christmas. The QT was setup 1.5 wks earlier with water from the display
and bio-media that we keep in our main 150gal tank for just such a
purpose. It is a 20gal w/2" gravel and UG filter and a
"reverse wet dry" (4"PVC filled with bioballs, capped
and drilled, with an airstone inside allowing bubbles to rise through
the bioballs). Wednesday I was checking my water and noticed that the
ammonia was getting up to 1ppm, so I did a 50% wc and added some GAC. I
checked my water on Thursday and the NH3 was up to 2 ppm so I did a 60%
wc, took out the plant bulbs that I'd put in on Monday, JIC, and
went about my way. Later that day I noticed that the discus just
didn't seem happy, so I checked again and my NH3 had jumped to
about 3ppm. I couldn't figure out what had happened, but the trend was
troubling. I checked the main system and everything was zero, including
nitrates, so I decided it was better to put them in the display than to
kill them with ammonia. We moved them in the afternoon and noticed that
the lonely discus in the main tank was being quite stingy with food. We
decided a change of scenery might do him good, so did a 40%wc, put him
in an internal refugium (clear 'critter cage' faced on it's side to
allow flow and view, w/o aggression) and rearranged the decorations. In
the process my UGJ came out from under the sand so I just pulled it from
the system...wasn't good for the discus anyway, too much current. This
all lasted until about 11:30pm. The fish looked like crud this morning,
but livened up for feeding, except the largest of the bunch. His feeding
reflex seemed very weak and he seemed to miss everything he went
for...he hit just below every piece of food, only getting like one out
of 10 attempts. This afternoon everyone still looked unhappy so I turned
off the MH and they are only lit by a 27w 6500K CFL in the middle of the
tank. Just now I noticed that the largest was still looking unhappy and
has quite a few "holes" around his head and jaw, probably about 8-12
that I can count. After seeing that I looked at everyone and they all
seem to have very pronounced lateral lines, though no-one else shows
holes in their head and he is the only one with a reduced feeding
response. I feed a variety of flake, mostly Tetra and OSI, and frozen
bloodworms and supplement every other day with vitamins. My first
thought is Hexamita, but I've only seen very advanced cases at pet
stores and am unsure. The main tank is still at 0 on everything and the
QT's ammonia is down to about .5ppm NH3. What should I do? Branon. < The
stress from all the movement and new fish is taking its toll. Continue
to check the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. The ammonia and nitrites
should be zero. The nitrates should be under 20 ppm for discus. The
lower the better. I would vacuum the gravel and clean the filter while
doing a 50% water change. Discus actually like some current in their
tank. Once the tank conditions are straightened out you should see some
improvement. Things like Blackwater Extract and pieces of wood in the
tank help calm the fish down by adding tannins to the water and slightly
darkening it.-Chuck
Discus Still Recovering 1/1/06 Chuck, good to hear from
you again. I let the [once] lonely discus out of his makeshift
'refugium' and he was much more content to play nicely. The
largest of the new fish is also improving--I'm going to call him
"biggy" since he's the biggest of the new group. He
wasn't attempting to eat yesterday or this morning, but as soon as
the resident discus came out he was much improved. The holes in his
head haven't changed. I'm treating one feeding per day with
Metronidazole, JIK. Everyone has perked up a bit. I noticed quite a bit
of "pestering" from the Yo-Yo loaches. Have you ever heard of
them being a problem? < Yes , many of the larger loaches can be very
aggressive.> Ours are about 3" long and are excellent
scavengers. However, I did notice that they will chase and pester the
discus about once every 5 minutes on average...sometimes worse than
others. I'm wondering if this is why everyone's still darker
than they should be? < Stress is a big factor when it come to
disease. Being chased every 5 minutes is stressful.> I'm going
to lure them into the 'refugium' and see if this helps the
discus some. I'm also thinking of getting some Corydoras or clown
loaches to give them something else to pester? < Go with the
Corydoras.> 'Biggy' is actively pursuing food but still
misses almost everything he aims for...can you think of any reason why?
< Deformity, disease could have affected the skull and muscle tissue
around the eyes and he is having trouble focusing.> He's almost
three inches so he's been eating well for a while now. He's
also been doing this since he was shipped to us, so I don't think
it's anything that could have happened here. Do you think this is
something that'll fade out? < If the eyes are clear then
probably nothing you can do.> Is there anything that could
contribute/help this condition/situation? < Keep the water clean and
hopefully things will improve.-Chuck> I'm planning on putting
him into the QT tank once the NH3 has improved. Any help would be
appreciated. Branon.
Discus In Distress - 09/01/2005 Hi Kindly help 40 gallon tank
with 4 tiger barbs 4 angles and 2 discus. <Too many large cichlids
for this tank; also, tiger barbs are notoriously aggressive
fin-nippers, I would fear for the fins of the angels and discus.> PH
test normal .temp 28°C <Ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate? Be testing for these as well, maintain ammonia and
nitrite at ZERO, and nitrate below 20ppm.> When a new cobalt blue
discus was added it has changed its colour to black, fins clamped, body
has sunk in size, eating very low, and breathing very
heavy. <Quite possibly Hexamita, treatable with
Metronidazole in food. Please note that this can easily
spread to your other discus and your angels. Consider using
a quarantine tank for new fish in the future.>
Regards, Saji <Wishing you and your discus
well, -Sabrina>
Sick Discus 8/18/05 Hey Guys...
<Hi Courtney> I need help:( <I'll certainly
try...> I have had a turquoise for about 3 weeks now and just
got 2 more a week and a half ago. I have 3 plants in my aquarium
and keep my water temp. around 82 degrees. <I would raise this
for discus to 85-90, slowly over a period of several days.> Last
night my discus began swimming frantically around the tank, running
into EVERYTHING!!! <Extreme stress response I'll bet.>
It seemed as though he was blind. <Are your lights extremely
bright?> Today he his very lethargic and just lets the current in
the tank take him around and he is often on his side, still running
into things. He is also very dark. <Very dark = very
stressed.> One of my new discus just started also running into
things, acts as if it is blind as well, but is very still active and
good color. <Discus have a tendency to bolt wildly when
stressed, especially when they are young.> My Nitrate level is 0-10,
Nitrite level is 0, KH is180, and pH is between 7.8 and 8.2. I
bought some pH down and put the recommended dose in to bring the level
down. <pH down is not an effective solution in the long
run. Your pH will never stay down with your kH that high (kH
is a measure of the water's capacity to buffer, or keep pH
stable). Best solution IME is to use a chunk of peat (the
kind meant for aquariums) in your filter and remove your activated
carbon. This will soften the water, plus release tannins
which will make the discus feel more at home by staining the water a
light tea colour. If you don't like the darkened water
(it's really not unpleasant), just put a new activated carbon in
your filter to remove the tannins.> These are such beautiful (and
might I say expensive) fish and do not want to lose them.
<Understandably...they are beautiful creatures.> I have 3 zebra
danios, 3 angel fish, a red flame gourami, Plecostomus, and about 5
apple snails in the tank with them. <Your plants will be snail
food, probably sooner rather than later.> I have a 30 gal.
tank. <Will need to upgrade to 50 gallon + within a year or
two.> My other discus is a blue diamond. Any suggestions would
be greatly appreciated!!! <Try peat in the filter. I have
found it to be the key to happy and bold discus. Also, you
should consider mixing in some RO/DI water when you do your water
changes (about 3-5 gallons 2-3 times per week should do it though some
like to change a little daily for discus). This will help
drop your pH slowly without shocking the fish. Good
luck!> Thanks so much, <No problem, thank you.> Courtney
<--Glenn>
Discus in a New Tank Greetings.. I have a 75
gallon Freshwater tank with 4 Discus and a one 4 inch Sliver Arowana.
The tank has been running 3 months. 1st Issue - 3 of my Discus have
recently developed white film over eyes. What is this and how do I fix?
< Erythromycin. Do a 30% water change, vacuum the gravel and clean
all your filters. Treat for the problem as per the directions on the
package. After treatment then run carbon to remove any excess
medication. When the medication is clear then add Bio-Spira from
Marineland to reestablish the good bacteria needed to break down the
fish waste.> 2nd Issue - I purchased a H.O.T magnum filter and
placed Eheim Subtrat for biological filtration but particles from the
media quickly filled the tank making it cloudy. I washed the media
thoroughly (Well I thought I did). Was this a good idea, and how do I
fix for best efficiency? <Eheim has lots of different media and
usually run at a much slower flow rate than the magnum. When I was
filter media or gravel I usually get a sieve from a local dollar store
and run my media through it until it runs clear. As long as you have
the foam sleeve on the outside almost anything will work on the
inside.> #3rd Issue - I am currently running a Emperor 400 Power
filter & Fluval Canister 304. Is this sufficient & how often
should I clean the Fluval (I have not cleaned as yet - 3 Months). Thank
you for your assistance with these matters. From 3 Month Old Fish Owner
=). < I would still clean them every other week. On the even
numbered weeks, like the second and forth, I would clean the Emperor.
On the odd numbered weeks I would clean the Fluval. By leaving a dirty
filter you will be building up nitrates which may have contributed to
your discus problem. With discus the lower the
better.-Chuck>
Fish poisoned with algicide/clarifying agent Hi there. I used
a product called Accu-clear in my tank, which was going green with an
algae bloom. It had 2 of my breeding discus in it. Both discus
instantly got sick and one to the point where it was lying on the
bottom of the tank and gasping for air. Can you help me and give me
some information on what I can do to help this fish? <Change the
water IMMEDIATELY... as much as you have good water (about the same
chemistry, temperature) on hand. Increase aeration... Bob
Fenner>
Royal Blue Discus, FW Algae Control, Seastars, Aiptasia
Control... I just discovered your web site yesterday and have spent
more time on it than I care to admit. I am truly impressed,
great web site. keep up the good work. I wish tools like
this were available in 1965 when I first started (whoops, did I just
give away my age?). <It'll be our little secret.> I have two
royal blue discus in a 60 gallon setup (about a year old and adult
size), PH - 6.4, temp - 85 degrees, with weekly water changes using
only distilled water. Usually no problems and everything is
great, but whenever they get stressed (like when the Santa Ana winds
start blowing the house down) they get small white patches along their
lateral line (larger and thicker than ich) and throughout their
body. If I use Hex-A-Mit they go away within a couple of
days and everything is back to normal. Does this sound
parasitic or fungal (I assume it isn't the beginning of
hole-in-the-head because they disappear too fast)? <Does not sound
like HLLE, most likely stress related. Using un buffered
distilled water can cause unstable water conditions. if the
hardness of this tank is below 40ppm and the pH is below 6.7)... then
these discus could easily be suffering from acidosis (too low pH, too
fast).> Also, any way to control the algae? The aquarium
is planted (using two 40 watt Trichromatics on 12 hours a
day) and the older leaves on the Echinodorus get algae on
them. I tried mystery snails, but they just keep eating up
the leaves on my lotus and Aponogetons. <A bunch of ways, mainly
nutrient control. http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
> One last question. Are there any safe sea stars for a
reef tank? Is there any way to kill those little annoying
anemones? I purchased a peppermint shrimp to control them
but he's having too much fun eating other things (okay, two last
questions. thanks and keep up the good work). <Yes there are
"reef safe" stars, see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seastars.htm
I would go with the peppermint shrimp approach. The
Copper-band Butterfly is a known Aiptasia eater, but will most likely
die once all the Aiptasia is gone. Best Regards, Gage
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aiptasia.htm
>
pH shock-- curable? I did something very stupid just over a
week ago-- I introduced an old piece of mahogany driftwood I had into
my discus tank. I had used the driftwood years ago in another discus
tank, and it provided a good buffering pillow. I was about to introduce
two new discus and also thought they'd like the shelter it
provided, as the three discus already present had pretty much staked
out their favorite spots around their piece of driftwood. Darned if the
new/old driftwood didn't leach scarily-large amounts of nitrate
into the water (which I didn't even think to check because
everything else-- ammonia, nitrite, PH all tested fine), and drive the
carbonate hardness down to near zero-- and, of course, cause an acid
fall-- from 7.0 to 6.2 between Friday afternoon and Sunday night. Well,
I've pulled out that hunk of driftwood and carefully and slowly
corrected the water conditions (PH back to 7.0, carbonate hardness 50
ppm, general hardness 80 ppm or 4.5 dh, no detectable nitrites or
ammonia, nitrates still high at 50 ppm but much better than the 110
they were!) and the discus are now looking a lot less stressed, as long
as I don't walk up to the tank, since they now connect me with Big
Scary water changes instead of yummy food. Their fins are barely
clamped and are spread full much of the time, body colour a bit dull
but not dark anymore, eyes better-- still a bit dull, but the red
colour's back But nobody's eaten a thing for six days. And
they're still not at all frisky. They mostly hang about their old
pieces of driftwood Obviously, they endured PH shock. Can they recover?
Can I help them recover? <More than nitrate was released by the
wood... I would make a large (25%) water change (with pre-conditioned
water) today, maybe another tomorrow... and place some activated carbon
(several ounces) in your filter flow path. Do your discus have favorite
food items? I would try these. Bob Fenner> Judy Waytiuk
Am I cycling again? More than that! Hi-- you guys are
life-savers. Your site is such a help, I can't tell you. <thanks
kindly... sorry for the delay in response. Catching up with e-mail>
But I need a bit of specific steerage, I think-- or maybe just a
hand-holding to tell me I'm doing okay now... I have a
long-established, planted 50 gallon discus tank which had three
part-grown fish. I added two and four tiny ones (I know-- when they
reach adulthood, I will be overcrowded-- but I'm not expecting them
to all make it. And if they do, I know a fish guy who will
gladly adopt). <Yikes... there are two huge flaws in this strategy.
Discus (like many FW fishes) give off growth-inhibiting hormones that
stunt the growth of smaller/weaker individuals. Unless you are doing
daily water changes, these smaller specimens you have added don't
have a prayer of growing. Now, as far as you statement that you
don't expect all to survive... I am dumbstruck as to why not?! I
would like to think you keep all fishes well enough to have every
confidence they will survive> My problem: I had an acid crash which
I think was precipitated by a huge drop in my carbonate hardness,
simultaneous with the addition of the two new guys. <I
hope this was not from using untempered RO/DO or Distilled water. Never
to be done... always buffer a bit. Even for Blackwater Amazonian
species (which you do not have)> Though I stabilized the Ph as
carefully as I could, one of my old discus and one of the new ones
died. I did 25% water changes every couple of days over the last week,
and bought two more new guys to replace the lamented dead-- who
happened to be the two biggest ones in the tank. Everyone now looks
fine-- spread fins, bright eyes, good color, active schooling, happy
exploration around the tank in group missions. But one of the new
darlings, on close inspection at home under good light, turns out to
have gray skin-- that fungal infection. <its not a fungal infection.
Fungal infections are extremely rare in fishes. Protozoan infections
from unquarantined discus are very common and contagious, however. I
have to say, my friend... I am torn here between wanting to help you on
one hand, and wanting to berate you on the other for your reckless
disregard for life. Even on base terms of financial investment... why
would anybody take a disease-prone family of fishes (Discus) and add
new undersized ones into a tank with an unfair advantage...
unquarantined(!)... and only days after kin had died? Even though you
explain the deaths as pH related... what of the increased risk of
disease with the stressed survivors? I am truly saddened to hear of the
whole affair. You need a lot more patience and information to keep
discus... perhaps fishes at large.> I treated that this morning with
Jungle's Fungus Eliminator. <a good medication, but ineffective
here... and what's worse is that you treated the main tank! Not
only was this medication a waste of money, but this antibiotic has
killed a portion of your biological filter> Everyone still seems
happy, though, <relative to...?> with the exception of the
ravenous babies, they're picking at food very lightly. I'm
removing it with a wide pipette as best I can when it gets left (easy
with a piece of Discus delight, not so easy with wandering frozen
bloodworms). My nitrates, which had been over 110 (as high as the kit
tests) <actually... you have staggering nitrate levels... likely
from a lack of water changes (which also mitigates acidosis like the pH
crash you've experienced). Nitrate on a test kit needs to be
multiplied by 4.4 to get the actual nitrate levels (Nitrate ion versus
nitrate as nitrogen). So even if your tank was known to be at only
110ppm on the test kit... your actual nitrate is around 500ppm
(possibly much higher). This level is obscene and quite indicative of
water quality> when the acid fall happened, are now, with the water
changes and the use of Nitra-Sorb in my box filter (Tetratec
300) somewhere between 20 and 40. <yes... water changes
please> But my carbonate hardness still wants to keep switching
down, testing daily at 30 or 35 although I am carefully adding KH
booster in the recommended amounts. And my Ph, which I am trying to
sketch down to 6.5, wants to stay at 7.0 even though I am adding daily
Ph Adjust down in the recommended amount. The fish all came from 7.0 or
higher, but really, I know they'll be much better off with the
lower P, if I can just get it to settle down around 6.5. Nitrites and
ammonia both tested at zero until this evening, when I got trace
ammonia and light nitrite readings. <that would be the medications
used in the display (and not a proper QT) killing nitrifying
faculties> I added some Cycle, <a waste of money IMO> assuming
my biological filter's been sorely depleted by all the water
changes. <Ahhh...no. Water changes have absolutely no impact on
nitrifying bacteria unless you are throwing away bio-media. These
faculties are benthic and not touched by the dilution of tank water>
So. Is the tank in a cycle stage again (if so, fine. I'll just
watch it like a hawk and do gentle, frequent water changes. <simple
damage from meds> But how do I get the carbonate hardness to behave
and the Ph to reduce slowly? <a better test kit and a better buffer
would be my advice> And should I put in Ammo Lock 2 if the ammonia
sketches up any further by morning? <just a water change please>
A major water change is, due to the Fungus Eliminator, out as an option
until Friday a.m.-- <I'm not sure why it would be out of the
question? This drug (like most) has a life in aquarium water of less
than 12 hours (actually about 4-6 hours in this case). Hence the reason
for daily and twice daily dosing of most meds. You water change will
not phase efficacy after 6 hours of the dose> but then, the
aquarium's biological filtration isn't going to much care for
yet another big water change, is it? Judy Waytiuk <I'm thinking
that you would benefit tremendously from attendance of a good local
aquarium society. Some better books at least. The sheer number of
misinformed choices and perceptions that you've recited tells me
that you may not be getting accurate advice from your local fish store
or other counsel. The help you need is far bigger than a single
e-mailed reply. Let me apologize for the disappointment and dry wit
above, but I am truly saddened to hear the choices you made and the
rationale (assumptive) behind them. Please take my advice and spare
some lives and your labor: don't by another fish until you've
bought some better books and read them. And then still don't buy
another fish until you've bought a simple QT tank to put all
potential new fishes in first for 4 weeks (no exceptions). Read more in
the wetwebmedia.com archives about protocol for quarantine. Best
regards, Anthony>
Discus pH shock/Columnaris Bob, I have a
75-gallon tank, containing nine 2" to 5" discus, several
pairs of various Amazonian dwarf cichlids, a few Cory cats, a 7"
diameter Guyana stingray (humerosa), and several other small dither
fishes. All were doing well together, besides the stingray occasionally
eating one of the smaller fishes, until I recently ordered online four
(of the nine) young 2" to 3" discus, which quickly developed
Columnaris. I do at least a 25% water change twice a week. I use
a Fluval 304 and an AquaClear 500 for filtration. I have about 15
plants (mostly swords and Anubias), which I supplement with a small CO2
system. I must have taken my previously good, stable water conditions
for granted, for a day after adding the new discus I tested my pH: it
was about 5 (the test didn't go any lower). The ammonia and
nitrites remained at zero, while the nitrates hovered around .12 mg/L.
The first night using 7.4 pH tap water, conditioned of course for
chlorine and whatnot, I managed to raise the pH up to 6. The next day
the older, larger discus also developed Columnaris; I've heard it
can be quite contagious to other tankmates, or perhaps they developed
it on their own as a result of pH shock. I believe that my original
mistake was not correctly measuring the proper amount of discus buffer
(to lower pH), which sent my normal 6.5 pH plummeting. For the first
five days I treated the tank with tetracycline/hydrochloride, but the
fish showed little recovery and one of the new ones died (a red spot
green). I don't think they liked sitting in the dark all day and
night long, due to tetracycline being photo sensitive, so after three
treatments-I believe it was 200 mg (1 pill) for every 5 gallons (I
added about 13-15 pills every 1.5 to 2 days) I switched to using
erythromycin, particularly Maracyn. They are all eating frozen
bloodworms, which I provide them a feast twice a day (the stingray is a
bottomless pit that I refer to as a vacuum cleaner). After two
days of treatment using erythromycin three of the discus seem much
better, and I know they appreciate the light. The rest still look
pretty ragged. My pH is back at a stable 6.5, and I've added more
Epsom salt than I normally use and also aeration to aid in their
respiration. I'm wondering how long Columnaris typically
lasts, and when I can expect my discus to fully recover. I also am
curious about the 5-day treatment Maracyn recommends, particularly
whether I should do partial water changes between daily treatments.
Surprisingly the stingray could care less about the medicated water and
is his same mischievous self. The other fish also appear unaffected. .
. . I'd like to know your opinion of my set-up and my predicament.
I hope I provided enough information. < You first mistake was
in not quarantining your new discus. If they had been placed in a small
clean aquarium the medicating would have cheaper and more effective.
The erythromycin is a good choice for this disease, but the water
changes help your fish recover. In about a week you fish should be
better. Watch out for ammonia spikes because the medication may affect
the good bacteria that breaks down the fish waste into less toxic
nitrites and nitrates.-Chuck>
Re: Discus pH shock/Columnaris Thanks, Chuck. One
more thing: After treating my tank with tetracycline for 5 days and
erythromycin for another 8 days two of my eight remaining discus that
had already seemed on the road to full recovery are now resting at the
bottom of the tank. Their colors have darkened only slightly, and they
don't appear to have anything new wrong with them. Are there
complications for extended use of erythromycin? I've removed the
medication, but they've now stopped eating (they were eating during
the medication). Also I've been adding salt at a rate of about 1
tablespoon per 5 gallons, maybe even a little more, which I heard may
aid in their recovery. This has gone on for a couple months. Could the
salt be the reason why the discus are behaving strangely?
Something's up, my pH is 6.8, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate .6
mg/L. I don't know what the hardness is. I have some plants in the
tank as well, which seem fine. Do the fish simply need to rest for a
couple days? I've had discus refuse food for weeks and then act
normal like nothing ever happened. Any ideas? (Tank specs: 8 discus, 1
stingray, 6 Irian Jaya red rainbowfish, several bottom feeders, 100
lbs. of sand, 2 96-watt power compacts, 15 plants, CO2 yeast thingy [not cylinder], no aeration, except current
from AquaClear 500 and Fluval 304). Adam Michels < Nothing
brings discus back faster than water changes. I would do water changes
as often as I could with soft acidic water. Offer a variety of foods
and clean the filter often. They should be back at it in no
time.-Chuck>
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