FAQs on Discus Nutritional Disease
FAQs on Discus Disease:
Discus Disease 1,
Discus Disease 2,
Discus Disease 3,
FAQs on Discus Disease by Category:
Diagnosis, Environmental,
Social, Infectious,
Parasitic,
Trauma, Treatments
Related Articles:
Plants +
Discus = Wow! by Alesia Benedict,
Planted Aquariums:
Plants and Discus: What They Need To
Thrive By Alesia
Benedict, Discus Divas, Glitz,
Glam and Lots of Demands by Alesia Benedict,
Juraparoids,
Neotropical Cichlids,
African Cichlids,
Dwarf South American Cichlids,
Asian Cichlids,
Cichlid Fishes in General,
Related FAQs: Discus 1,
Discus 2,
Discus Identification,
Discus Selection,
Discus Compatibility,
Discus Behavior,
Discus Systems,
Discus Feeding,
Discus Reproduction,
Cichlids of the World,
Cichlid Systems,
Cichlid Identification,
Cichlid Behavior,
Cichlid Compatibility,
Cichlid Selection,
Cichlid Feeding,
Cichlid Disease,
Cichlid Reproduction,
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discus fish
treatment 7/25/11
Dear Sir,
<Hello!>
I am having blue diamond breeding pair.
<Okay.>
from past 15 days the male discus is pointing
downward. he is healthy and even eating Too much. while eating
he get straight. I have putted Epsom salt for 5 times but no effect.
please give treatment for this problem.
<Difficult to give an answer here. I need more information. How big
is the aquarium? What is the water chemistry? What is the water
temperature? What food do you use? Inbreeding and constipation are both
possibilities, particularly if the fish is otherwise healthy: i.e., it
eats well, has bright eyes, normal colours, and has interest in its
companion. Diet can be cause problems if lacking fibre or if it
contains too much fat. Parasites shouldn't be a problem if you have
been using dry and/or wet-frozen foods, but some live foods can
introduce parasites such as intestinal worms, particularly Tubifex, a
known carrier of "Whirling Disease". Cheers, Neale.>
Re: discus fish treatment
tank size is 2ft x 2ft x 2ft.
<A bit over 200 litres/50 gallons. Should be acceptable for a pair
of Discus.>
I feed them beef heart.
<Do need more variety than this.>
color and eyes are perfect.
the female is too active.
<Really? Are you sure it's active, or does it look stressed,
nervous or alarmed? Check the water quality. Cichlids often get jumpy
if nitrite and ammonia levels rise, or if there's something else
wrong with the system.>
temperature id 30 degree c.
<A bit warm for routine maintenance. Keep them at 28 C most of the
time, and up to 30 C only for spawning. Don't try and spawn them
until they're a good size and only after proper feeding. As for why
your male can't swim, you still haven't said anything that
seems obviously wrong. The diet could be at fault though. Review
constipation in cichlids, and vary the diet accordingly. Good
high-fibre foods for Discus include brine shrimps and daphnia. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: discus fish treatment 7/25/11
thanks
<You're welcome.>
can you suggest some medicine for them.
<Not really. Unless you know what is wrong with your fish, you
cannot safely add medication. Random use of medicines will cause more
problems than it will solve. Review the things I've mentioned, and
act accordingly.
Try contacting a local or international Discus club, perhaps via an
online forum, to see if anyone else has seen this particular set of
symptoms. Do be open minded: most sickness is caused by problems with
maintenance rather than disease, and inbreeding can complicate things
even further.>
I am doing treatment for my leopard male discus fish. at start he was
doing white poo shit.
<We do prefer family-friendly language here! But clear, slimy faeces
that lack colour are a common symptom of Hexamita infection. This is
normally treated using Metronidazole; nothing else works.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/hexoctfwfs.htm
Hexamita infection is common among farmed Discus. It is probably latent
in most farmed cichlids, but if the fish is stressed, the parasite
multiplies wildly, and that's what causes problems. Other symptoms
include lethargy, odd swimming, loss of colour or dark colour, and
ultimately death. Remember to remove carbon when medicating.
Calculating the correct dosage is difficult to do, and advice from a
vet is very, VERY useful.>
I put Epsom salt for 5 times. then on 4 day I saw fins are darker &
got fungus.
I put Tetracycline 500mg capsule. after 3days I saw his stomach is
swollen. I put Epsom salt 5 times after every 4 hours & metrogyl
400mg 2 tablet. but still the stomach is swollen and fish is not
eating.
please guide me sir
<Do see above. Cheers, Neale.>
Male adult discus constantly
swims head down
Discus Stays Head Down In Tank Corner 11/22/10
Hello Crew, I have been keeping discus for a few years now in a 100gal
tank, pH 6.8; dGH 0.5; dKH 0; temp 30 C; nitrites / ammonia/ nitrates
all 0.
< Hard to believe zero nitrates unless the resin you mention is
specifically for nitrogenous waste..>
I do about a 12% water change most weeks using RO water with carbon,
resin, micro and membrane filters adding Pro Discus Mineral.
I run two external filters and clean them out alternately monthly using
RO water and rinse the filter media in the RO water I have used to
rinse out the sponges and discard half the sponges at each clean
out.
One of a pair of breeding discus I think developed TB and just slowly
wasted away despite continuing to eat well. Her partner became
reclusive and adopted a head down position so I put them both into
quarantine. This male had been responsible for killing a rival male
previously and in the process severely damaged one eye resulting in the
lens hanging outside the eyeball for a few weeks which gradually seemed
to resolve and his eye now looks normal. I tried all forms of remedies
including worming, Hexamita etc.
none of which made any difference so I just kept them in the quarantine
tank.
Eventually the wasting discus died. Her partner remains in head down
position, eats well (though I'm not sure his vision is all that it
should be as although he can clearly see he does tend to bump in to
things, such as the filter or artificial plants, easily) and loves any
live food I put in, swimming around actively chasing it, but resumes
head down as soon as he is finished. He tends to reside in one small
area of the tank unless
feeding.
This situation has been maintained for several months and I am
reluctant to put him back into the main tank for fear of infecting my
other discus which seem perfectly healthy.
Do you have any thoughts? Many thanks Mike
< The tank conditions, and maintenance procedures seem fine. I would
start to look at the diet. You mentioned live food but did not mention
the diet. Live foods like worms may contain parasites. Live adult brine
shrimp has almost no nutritional value. I would recommend trying to
feed a high quality pellet or flake food. It will be difficult at first
since they will probably hold out for live food since they have you
trained to feed that to them. Place the food in the tank for 5 minutes.
Remove any uneaten food after that. After a few days they will get
hungry enough to at least try the food. Once they accept it then you
will probably see a difference in the behavior.-Chuck>
Re: Male adult discus constantly swims head down
Discus Stays Head Down In Tank Corner II
11/22/10
Hello Chuck, I use Zeolite in the filter media to get rid of
nitrogenous compounds.
Thanks for the advice however I always feed with a mixture of frozen
bloodworm, TetraMin crisps, and Tetra Prima Discus. I only occasionally
give them live food such as bloodworm or daphnia or enhanced brine
shrimp to get them chasing their meals. The fish feeds avidly and will
swim up to the surface to feed if there's anything floating but
when finished resorts to head down. I did worm him with Mebendazole but
that made no difference.
Regards Mike
< Blood worms may absorb toxins from the mud they are found in. I
would stay away from the bloodworms for a couple of weeks and see if
that makes any difference in the behavior.-Chuck>
Re: Male adult discus constantly swims head down
Discus Stays Head Down In Tank Corner III
11/24/10
OK I'll see what happens and let you know. All the others (15 of
them) are fine on the same diet however. Best wishes Mike
< Stress is a big factor in diseases. This fish may be at the bottom
of the pecking order and that could play a major roll. Move some of the
decorations around so the fish need to set up new territories and then
see if that helps too.-Chuck>
Re: Male adult discus constantly swims head down
Discus With Head down In Corner IV 11/24/10
I moved the fish from the main tank into my quarantine tank several
months ago with his partner who subsequently died (I think from TB) by
just wasting away despite continuing to feed. He was already head down
when I moved them both. He used to be the largest and most vigorous of
my fish at the top of the pecking order and as previously mentioned had
killed a rival who was trying to move in on his partner one evening in
a huge battle when his eye was damaged. He still feeds avidly and looks
expectantly when I approach with the feed tub but is still head down. V
Strange!
< If he is alone in a hospital tank with his head down then I still
am thinking internal infection and sticking with my recommendation of
Nitrofuranace and Metronidazole.-Chuck>
Re: Male adult discus constantly swims head down 11/27/10
Finding Nitrofuranace
Hello Chuck I've never heard of Nitrofuranace. Do you mean
Nitrofurantoin and do you have any dosage guideline? Mike
< At drsfostersmiths.com it is listed as Furan-2.-Chuck>
Finding Nitrofuranace For Head Down Discus 11/28/10
< Go to dersfostersmith.com . It is listed under Furan-2. Follow the
directions on the package.-Chuck>
Discus with I believe with HLLE (yep!)
11/05/08 Hi I have a 75 gal tank with 8 Discus four are
the size of the picture I am sending and the remaining being
silver dollar in size. Filtration is a Penguin BioWheel 350
filtered with Bio ceramic filter balls and filter cartridges
w/activated carbon, second one is a whisper filter 60 gal that I
use filter cartridges with. 1 airstone. Gravel1-1 1/2" deep.
Artificial silk plants. Feeding is as follows: San Fran Bay
Frozen Spirulina Brine shrimp, San Fran Bay frozen beef heart,
Beef heart flakes, Hikari bio encapsulated w/vitamins bloodworms,
Hikari microwafers, frozen plankton, omega one color flakes,
omega one vitamin flakes, Tetra cichlid sticks. I dose the water
with VitaChem once a week and add to frozen food. I vary the food
giving flakes and frozen everyday and feed 4-5 times a day. Water
parameters today are: AMM- 0, Nitrite- 0.3, PH- 7.5, temp- 85
degrees. Water changes are done once a week at 75% change with
Kordon NovAqua Plus. I want to make sure this is HLLE I noticed
Sunday clear matter floating around like poop but totally
transparent note all fish have normal poo. This was
discovered on fish yesterday added salt and this morning it is
worse can you let me if I am correct in HLLE and I've read
the threads metro is what I should use. The first picture is
yesterday, next two are today. <Greetings. This does indeed
look very much like Head-and-Lateral-Line-Erosion, or HLLE. This
disease is "caused" by one of two things, possibly
working in combination, though the precise details are obscure.
The Hexamita parasite is at least partially involved, and while
normally associated with problems with the digestive tract
(commonly observed as white, stringy feces due the excess mucous
production) the parasites somehow can spread to the surface of
the fish under certain situations. Once that happens they cause
the sensory pits on the head and flanks to become infected and
ultimately the pits decay, causing the tell-tale wounds we call
Hole-in-the-Head (HITH) or HLLE, depending on where the wounds
are seen. It is possible Hexamita is latent in many fish, and
only under specific situations does it become a problem, and both
diet and water quality seem to be extremely probable triggering
factors. With cichlids, any nitrate level about 20 mg/l seems to
lead to a, elevated risk of HLLE/HITH. Every cichlid I have ever
seen with the disease was in an overcrowded tank or one with
infrequent water changes, and this is based partly on
observations of my own mistakes! Bob Fenner has also written
convincingly about the appearance of HLLE/HITH in marine fish as
being closely related to lack of vitamins. Herbivorous fish are
particularly prone to receiving inadequate diets, and cichlids
are overwhelmingly at least partially herbivorous in the wild.
Even fish-eating cichlids will be consuming herbivorous fish, and
in that way consuming the plant material in the guts of their
prey. Tinned peas, Spirulina flake and cooked spinach are usually
taken by even the most carnivorous cichlids. So while the
immediate treatment is Metronidazole, long term you need to
review water quality and diet, and see if there's anything
there you can improve. Cheers, Neale.>
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Sick discus- Discus Not Eating
06/15/08 I have an 8 month old discus that was
very healthy last week no it is not eating and is pooping clear I read
it could be internal parasites but what can cure it ? Please don't
say metro because I've been reading that it don't really solve
the problem? Please I don't him to die Thanks < Check the water
quality of the tank. Ammonia and nitrites should be zero and the
nitrates should be under 20 ppm for domesticated discus and under 10
ppm for wild discus. The water temp should be around 80 to 82 F. If
these look OK then do a 50-30% water change and vacuum the gravel.
Clean the filter too. Now that the environmental factors have been
addressed we can look at some of the others. In the wild discus
actually eat algae and very small aquatic invertebrates. Sometimes
commercial foods are too rich for their long intestinal tracks. These
foods may cause a blockage. Now the bacteria in the gut start to break
down the food instead of the fish's body absorbing it. As the
bacteria grow and multiply it extends the gut of the fish and stresses
the rest of the body. Not too many medications can be absorbed into the
fish's body. If too much time goes by then no medication will work
because the infection has gotten too large. The bacteria or other
parasites grow faster than the medication can kill it. Other factors
include organics in the water. Many medications are absorbed by the
activated carbon in the filter or by the mulm found in the gravel. When
not treated effectively the bacteria and other parasites can build up a
resistance to any medication and will make it totally ineffective.
Metronidazole is a reasonable treatment. It needs to be done early and
often. You may have already waited too long for any treatment to work
at this time. If you want to believe the other source that
Metronidazole doesn't work, then I have heard that Clout or a
triple dose of Furanace has worked on occasion.-Chuck>
Strange Discus illness... nutr.,
algal/env...? 2/27/07 Hello <Hi there> I have a
75gallon Discus tank. I have it fairly heavily planted, with Co2
injection and a PH controller. I also have 260watts of compact
fluorescent lighting. I change the water once a week, about 15 to 25%
each time and once a month I do a more in depth cleaning and 30% - 40%
water change. I have only had these fish in the tank for about two
months now. The tank itself has been running for about 6 months or more
now. I did a 25 or 30% water change yesterday afternoon, and trimmed
some planted that had some bad algae growth and cleaned the Fluval
filter pads and trays. <All sounds good thus far... but the
algae...> Then fed the fish about an hour later. Everyone was fine
when I went to bed last night. I woke up this morning, and found one of
my larger discus floating upside down in the corner. When I looked in
at him he moved back out of the corner and got upright, and then swam
down to the bottom with the others. Then I realized he was swollen or
bulging around is stomach area, and had difficulty swimming, and once
floated rig ht to the top of the tank. When I left for work, he was
back in the corner, but right side up this time. <Mmmm> I have no
idea what this could be or how I caused this. I did recently started
feed live black worms, as I have one smaller discus in there that
won't eat anything but live food and small amounts of flake foods.
All the discus eat the worms. <Usually... with gusto!> Yesterday
though, I did have a problem with the worms, but it didn't seem to
be an issue. I took the out of the fridge, and found that they had
gotten frozen solid. I thought they were dead for sure. But I rinsed
them with cold water a few times, and the ice melted away slowly, and
to my surprise the worms were in fact alive and moving. so I rinsed
them a few more times and let them sit. they looked totally normal and
healthy, so I fed them to my discus and my angels and rams in another
tank. The other tank is doing just fine, and so are all the other
discus, including the one that doesn't eat much. Any ideas what
this is and how I can treat the discus and hopefully not lose him? more
tank info incase its needed... PH - 6.80 Ammonia - 0ppm Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 0ppm to 5ppm GH - about 6 KH - about 3 or 4 <This all
looks good as well> I have eco complete as my substrate with a very
small amount of gravel on the top of that mainly for color. Filtration
is a Fluval 405 filter, with one tray full of bio media, another with
zeolite and peat, and another with lava grains. also have co2 injection
on a PH controller and 260watts of light. The only thing I am not using
is RO water. I do plan to use this ASAP, as soon as I can afford one.
<Mmm, depends on whatever else may be in your tap... but the
measures you give are fine... esp. for tank-bred specimens (vs.
wild-caught)> Thanks for any help you may offer!!!! <Mmm... well,
I suspect the blackworms... as you appear to as well... Maybe the one
fish "got a tummy-ache" from these being "not quite
right"... But more so, I am wondering re the algae that you
mention on the plants... there are a few types that are quite toxic to
aquatic life... in particular in new/er set-ups... I do encourage you
to add a bit of GAC (granulated activated carbon) in a Dacron bag... in
your canister filter, AND I do encourage you to add something more/else
in the way of filtration... another canister or hang-on power filter...
You need more, redundant bio-filtration here... Bob
Fenner>
Discus with Dropsy Hello, I only recently discovered your
website and have been avidly reading many articles on both fresh and
saltwater topics. Coincidentally I have a sick Pigeonblood Discus
that I fear I will lose shortly. I have a very mature 45 gallon tank
(10 years plus) using RO water. I currently have 4 discus, 2 clown
loaches and a Gold Nugget Pleco that have been friends for years. I
feed them bloodworms every other day and on alternate days feed flake
and Cichlid Stable by Hikari. I noticed a white sting coming from the
Pigeonblood about 1" long. It broke off but he/she continued
expelling this the next day or so. I was told this was likely a
parasite and to treat with Metro + (although the container says it
treats Hole in head and lateral line). I decided to soak the Cichlid
staple in water that had dissolved Metro+ in it. All the fish readily
ate this each day for three days. White stuff cleared up for about a
week when it returned, this time worse. Once the Discus bulged up and
later I found a large mass of white mucus on the gravel and the bulge
was gone. The discus stopped eating and became recluse. I
set up a hospital tank and applied the Metro+ as a bath according to
the instructions for 4 days. I offered bloodworms each day which were
ignored. I removed the uneaten worms each afternoon. I now put
him back in the tank with his friends hoping he would begin eating but
he has returned to the corner and is looking droopy and listless. Any
ideas? < In the wild discus eat very small invertebrates and algae.
I think your problem comes from the bloodworms. I would discontinue the
use of the bloodworms. Do a 30% water change, vacuum the gravel and
clean the filter. Treat with Metronidazole as per the directions on the
package. Treat on day one as prescribed and ad some rid-ich to the tank
too. On the second day do a 50% water change. On the third day apply
the medication as you did on day one. Repeat this cycle for a total of
three treatments. Stay off the blood worms and try to get them on to
brine shrimp and then over to spectrum discus
pellets.-Chuck>
Discus help please Hi, I hope that you can help. I
have 4 Wattley Discus. Two of them are about 5 inches and the other two
are about 2 1/2 inches. I got them 7 months ago
and all would eat fine till now. Now one of the 2 1/2 ones is not
eating and is getting rather skinny and losing its color and breathing
heavy. The other 3 are looking great and seem to be doing
and eating fine, begging and all. The thing is, nothing that I have
done has changed. I have not added any fish or have I done
anything differently than I have for the past 7 months. I have a 60 gal
with an Eheim 2226 and a UV light on it. I still do my water changes
once a week (about 15-20 gal) with r/o water and just a hint of tap
water. The temp is at 86. I also have some Rummy
nose in with them and they all look great too. He used to be
the only one eating all-the-time. From the top, middle or
bottom. And very aggressive at feeding time. When
they all would be eating, he was the boss, which was kind of funny
because he was much smaller than two of them, but was getting some nice
size to him. He has been like this now for about 2 weeks and he looks
worse every day. I would like to see what you have to say
about what could be the cause and what I could be doing to help
it. It is the one that my 6 year old daughter picked out and
if it goes.....well you know. Please help and
advise. Thanks. <I would suggest isolating this fish and
seeing if he'll eat while on his own. If so, keep him isolated and
well fed until he is healthy again before returning him to your main
tank. Ronni>
Response to "Discus help please" posted on 4-6
<This was sent to me by another one of our crew members so I wanted
to pass it on to you. He's got more experience in Discus keeping
than I do.> They didn't mention what foods were being offered, I
feed mine a variety of meaty foods such as beef heart, Wattley's
Discus formula by ocean nutrition, live brine shrimp (when hunger
strikes set in), red worms, etc.... Make sure something didn't
cause a drastic change in PH, I've had Discus turn really dark and
act like they're dying just by sneezing in front of the tank!
Discus can be a tricky fish to keep!
Re: response to "Discus help please" posted on 4-6
Hi again. There was/is no problem with the ph, I do check
that all the time, at-least every other day. I feed them
mostly Omega One (red bottle) flakes and also give them Wattley frozen
Discus formula, Hikari frozen blood worms and frozen krill, San
Francisco's frozen brine shrimp and frozen mosquito larvae and live
brine shrimp about once a month. The other three are doing
great like I said. He was once the (king) of the tank at
feeding time, even being the smallest by more than double his
size. He would also be the only one to be seen eating all
day long. Going through every nook and cranny he could find
while the others would just be swimming around. At first I
thought that he might have eaten some old food that I might have missed
cleaning up. If that is the case, will it just pass?
<Likely so> Or is that even probable to happen? I
clean the tank at least once a week and try to do at least a 20% water
change mid week also. <Hopefully with water of high quality. You
might try twice weekly changes of ten percent to see if this improves
their behavior> Thanks for your fast reply and I'll
be waiting to hear what you have to say. He is not looking
very good at all now and is very, very pail in color. He is
a Wattley's Marlboro Red and was a VERY good looking fish as they
all are. But he just had something about him, very, very
thick and such a great round shape. I don't know who
will take the loss of him worse, my daughter or me. He never
showed any symptoms other than not eating. I mean his poop
was always fine and his color was excellent as was his eyes and
fins. The first couple of days he wasn't eating, I just
thought he wasn't feeling good and I continued to do my tank
cleaning and water changes thinking that he would soon come
around. But he is not coming around and looking
bad. The others are still looking and acting
great. Please advise. Thank you much for your
time. <Do try elevating your water temperature... if you haven't
already. To the mid to upper eighties F. if the rest of your livestock
can handle this raise. Bob Fenner>
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