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| FAQs on Discus Disease, Pests 3
Related Articles: Discus,
Planted aquariums
Plants + Discus
= WOW! by Alesia Benedict,
Plants
and Discus: What They Need to Thrive by Alesia Benedict, Juraparoids,
Neotropical Cichlids, African
Cichlids, Dwarf South American Cichlids,
Asian Cichlids, Cichlid
Fishes in General,
Related FAQs:
Discus Disease 1,
Discus Disease 2, & Discus 1,
Discus 2,
Discus
Identification, Discus Selection,
Discus Compatibility,
Discus Behavior,
Discus Systems,
Discus Feeding,
Discus Reproduction,
Cichlids of the World,
Cichlid Systems,
Cichlid Identification,
Cichlid Behavior,
Cichlid Compatibility, Cichlid Selection,
Cichlid Feeding,
Cichlid Disease, Cichlid
Reproduction,
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Sick discus- Discus Not Eating
06/15/08
I have an 8 month old discus that was very healthy last week no it is not eating
and is pooping clear I read it could be internal parasites but what can cure it
? Please don't say metro because I've been reading that it don't really solve
the problem? Please I don't him to die
Thanks
< Check the water quality of the tank. Ammonia and nitrites should be zero and
the nitrates should be under 20 ppm for domesticated discus and under 10 ppm for
wild discus. The water temp should be around 80 to 82 F. If these look OK then
do a 50-30% water change and vacuum the gravel. Clean the filter too. Now that
the environmental factors have been addressed we can look at some of the others.
In the wild discus actually eat algae and very small aquatic invertebrates.
Sometimes commercial foods are too rich for their long intestinal tracks. These
foods may cause a blockage. Now the bacteria in the gut start to break down the
food instead of the fish's body absorbing it. As the bacteria grow and multiply
it extends the gut of the fish and stresses the rest of the body. Not too many
medications can be absorbed into the fish's body. If too much time goes by then
no medication will work because the infection has gotten too large. The bacteria
or other parasites grow faster than the medication can kill it. Other factors
include organics in the water. Many medications are absorbed by the activated
carbon in the filter or by the mulm found in the gravel. When not treated
effectively the bacteria and other parasites can build up a resistance to any
medication and will make it totally ineffective. Metronidazole is a reasonable
treatment. It needs to be done early and often. You may have already waited too
long for any treatment to work at this time. If you want to believe the other
source that Metronidazole doesn't work, then I have heard that Clout or a triple
dose of Furanace has worked on occasion.-Chuck>
Fin nipping in all discus tank – 04/1/08
Hi guys. It has been a while since I sought your sage advice, but I am back
again with a new issue. First, I want to thank you for all of the extremely
useful advice that you have given me in the past!
<Cool.>
I have a 55-gallon discus only tank that is home to 8 discus ranging in size
from 3-6 inches or so. All of them have done well together from the beginning
and we are starting our 3rd year now. Obviously, some of them eat a lot more
than others-the size difference between the largest and smallest fish is
staggering. And although they do chase each other around and have face-offs
every day, there have been no injuries, and all of them have eaten well (some
better than others!), and stayed healthy and active...until now.
<Oh?>
I recently noticed one of the medium-size discus hanging out in the corner by
himself instead of with the rest of the group, but didn't think much of it at
the time. Not long after that, I noticed some very obvious fin-nipping damage on
the back edges of his dorsal and anal fins. I then realized that it had been a
few days since I had seen him joining the community meals along with everyone
else. That was about a week ago and I still have not see him eat. On top of
that, the exterior cover to his gills looks kind of frayed, his color has become
pale, and he is breathing faster than the other fish.
<Discus are of course territorial once mature and in the mood for breeding. So
it may well be you have one mated pair that are driving off the other fish. But
if it is just the one fish showing signs of ill health, consider other factors,
e.g., Finrot rather than nipping. Do a water quality test. Look over the fish
for signs of eroded lateral line, hollow stomach, red patches on the body or
fins, etc. Different symptoms will help pin down different diseases.>
I have read that damaged fins will grow back, so although I found the damage to
his fins very disturbing (especially after two years of harmony in the tank), I
didn't immediately panic but maybe I should have. I thought perhaps that they
were not getting enough food, so I increased the amount of food per feeding, but
stayed on the same schedule. (morning and evening). After all, I have never seen
my discus stop eating when they could still graze around and find any more
morsels of food.
Okay, so more food is going into the tank and mealtime lasts a little longer,
but the guy with the fin damage still doesn't eat. All of the others eat
ravenously, then graze until the food is all gone. They look really healthy and
vibrant-like they could jump out of the tank and arm wrestle me! I see no
obvious evidence of disease on any of the other fish.
<Hmm... I'd tend to suspect this fish is otherwise ill rather than nipped. Check
water, but also check the fish itself for signs of Hexamita or whatever.>
I am afraid that I have waited too long now. There has been no improvement in
the past week and I am afraid I am going to lose him now. Any advice will be
gratefully accepted.
<Would use an antibacterial/antibiotic medication now on the assumption that at
least a secondary infection is likely. Quarantining the sick fish and observing
carefully would be sensible.>
Nothing changed before this happened-no new fish or decorations. Water changes
30-35% weekly as usual. What could have caused this?
<Difficult to say without seeing the fish or knowing anything about the
environment.>
Thank you for reading my post and for any advice you can offer.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Ick, FW... Discus incl. -03/27/08
Hello,
I have discus and cardinal tetra in a 44 gallon tank. The tetras have the ich
white spots. As soon as I noticed them I raised the tank
temperature to 82-84 removed the carbon filter and treated with Rid-Ich.
After several days and treatments the ich was still on them. I then did a 50%
water change and began treating with super ich treatment. The
discus appeared to be stressed so after two days put filter back in and did
water change. Cardinals still have white spots but not noticeable
on Discus.
What can I use to get rid of the Ich and not harm or stress the discus?
Any assistance you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Susan
<Hi Susan. There's really no magic to Ick medications, and when they don't work,
it's either because the disease was misidentified (e.g., it's Velvet, not Ick)
or else the medication was used improperly (e.g., wrong concentration, without
removing carbon, etc.). So check these things; it's easy to make mistakes. Next
up, I'd recommend trying alternate brands of medication. I've found some
medications much less effective than others in some instances. I'm not a huge
fan of raising the temperature when using copper/formalin medications IF the Ick
problem is being dealt with early on. The standard operating temperature for
Discus is around 28C/82F, and that should be ample warmth to speed the Ick life
cycle to under a week. Raising the temperature makes more sense with
coldwater/subtropical fish where the life cycle takes longer. Because Ick
damages the gill membranes, the combo of high temperature (= low oxygen) coupled
with the Ick damage can lead to breathing problems for the fish. In any case,
removing carbon shouldn't be causing distress to your fish. If you have so much
organic material being dumped into the aquarium that the water turns nasty
within a few days, you have bigger problems than Ick! Seriously, carbon plays no
particularly useful role in freshwater aquaria so I wouldn't bother with it. Do
always check that "modules" in filters don't have hidden carbon sachets. Carbon
exists in the hobby primarily as a way for manufacturers to extract cash from
consumers, and they love to build in carbon (costs pennies) into filters to
force inexperienced consumers to buy new carbon modules every month. Almost
every time I've experienced or been told about Ick medication not working, it's
been because there was carbon somewhere in the system. Cheers, Neale.>
Sick Discus questions ???
3/12/08
Hello, My Grandson & I have a sick Blue Cobalt Discus. We noticed him hiding
in a hollow resin log the other day, and he's also stopped eating. He's lost
some of his color, and his eye's have gone from red to jet-black. Today, we
noticed two small lesions just above the mouth, look almost like two nostrils
(hole in the head ?); His eyes are beginning to bug out a bit as well. The other
Discus in the tank seem to be in great health, so we decided to put the little
guy in the hospital tank. I have the temp in the hospital tank turned up to
approx. 88 F. with good aeration and a dose of "General Cure" in the water. He
is also exhibiting symptoms of internal parasites, white trailing fecal matter.
The fish in question is young, barely 2" in length, that's being generous. Can
you please tell me if I should be treating him/her with anything additionally ?
Thanks in advance for your time, Dan & Gabe.
<Does sound like Hole-in-the-Head. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwhllefaqs.htm
Usually treated with Metronidazole in the food, though there are some off the
shelf medications as well, e.g., eSHa Hexamita 'Discus Disease'. Regardless,
this is difficult to cure in very small fish, and you must certainly treat
promptly to have any chance of success. Do also remember HITH is triggered by
environmental issues even if a parasite is the problem. Water quality,
particularly nitrates, are a common triggering factor with cichlids. Cheers,
Neale.>
Discus plague
3/5/08
Dear sirs,
I am a discus keeper from Macedonia. I have been keeping discus fish for many
years very successfully. Recently, I made a huge mistake in keeping discus. I
have a 450l tank with all equipment needed. I kept my fish at 86F, performed
regular water changes and everything was perfect.
<Very good.>
A week ago I went to a local pet store seeing a new discus imported fish from
Asia. I could not resist the fish colour and I bought two new fish for my tank.
I owned six semi-adult discus in my tank which were a good size of 15cm in
diameter. I made a disastrous mistake of introducing the new fish in my tank
without putting the new ones in quarantine first.
<Uh-oh...!>
I had a severe outbreak of Discus Plague in my tank. All my fish get sick with
symptoms of darkening of their colour, hiding in the corner of the tank with
clamped fins and finally swimming in disoriented way.
<Could be 'Discus Plague' but do remember: many other diseases cause the same
symptoms. A lot of people blame Discus Plague, but unless you are a
microbiologist or a vet, actually confirming that Discus Plague is to blame is
impossible. So you must be broad minded. Check water chemistry and water
quality. Think about other disease-causing organisms that could be to blame,
such as Hexamita. Toxic chemicals can also cause similar problems; for example
paint fumes. Also check the behaviour of other fish in the tank. Loricariid
catfish such as Plecs for example will sometimes decide to suck on the mucous on
the side of the Discus. Needless to say this causes intense stress, and a
stressed Discus is not a healthy Discus! So be sensible and look at the big
picture rather than *assuming* it is Discus Plague.>
The new two fish were not so inflicted so I returned them to the store. After
few days of fighting with the virus I decided to stop my fish from misery. Now I
only have my albino and long fin albino bristlenose Plecos in my tank and I am
continuing to perform massive water changes to clean the tank from the reminders
of the virus. My Plecos did not get ill as they are not inflicted with the
discus diseases. Can Plecos carry the disease?
<Unlikely; but I wouldn't keep Plecs with Discus anyway for the reason mentioned
above.>
I am planning to reintroduce a new discus fish in my tank as the tank is without
any discus now. How long would last to be safe to put new fish in the tank?
<I would tend to remove all the fish if possible, and run a course of
anti-protozoan medications and then a course of anti-bacteria medications. While
doing this, remember to keep adding occasional pinches of fish food so the
filter bacteria have something to "eat".>
Should I medicate the tank with something before introducing new group of fish?
<I would, yes.>
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Yours
Igor!
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: DISCUS AND AMMONIA SPIKE
AFTERMATH... induced Discus prob.s, hypochondria... reading 2/1/08
Hi , thanks for your response
<... where is the prev. corr.?>
to my ammonia issue I bought the AmQuel + and that has resolved the ammonia(
chloramine in my tap water at H20 changes), can I use this everyday at water
changes the bottle says to wait 24 hours between applications and since I need
to do wc everyday is it ok.
<Can be used daily, continuously if necessary>
Second question is I noticed that one of my discus has two small white spots on
his caudal fin, treated with combo formalin and malachite green per directions
for three days (whole tank)
<!? VERY toxic... I would NOT place formalin in a biological system>
with wc of 20% each day, also the carbon was removed.
<Likely all your biological filtration/nitrifiers have been wiped out>
However on the second day of treatment I noticed that the fish looked like they
had Finrot and on two of them they appeared to have swollen abdomens, as well as
red around the nose area.
<Effects of formalin poisoning and nitrogenous waste exposure...>
I did a 65% wc and replaced the carbon. My nitrites spiked to 0.3mg/l and the ph
was at 7.8 which is normally 7.6. I should mention that the tank was setup in
late Sept. and was cycled properly (AQUACLEAR 110) but I live in an area where
we are experiencing more
frequent power outages and I am not always at home so the time the filter is
down is not always noted. I have a 75 gal, with two filters a BioWheel 330 and a
AquaClear 110 the latter was the original and it was the one that I turned off
(fear of media had become anaerobic) after an outage of 4 hours in late Dec.
<Likely so>
which meant the BioWheel was only cycled for about 3 weeks and on its own. I
Have since put some filter media in from a well established tank on Tues. of
this week can't find BioSpira even on the Marineland site says error when click
to buy. Could this and the combo of the ammonia (that is in tap water) spike
caused this problem in my tank with my fish.
<Yes>
Could it be a bacterial infection.
<Is this a question?>
This is all the symptoms that my fish are displaying dark colored, clamped fins,
as of today they don't look swollen in the abdomen, Finrot looks a little better
gave 1 treatment of parasite clear tank buddies by jungle active ingred. (
Praziquantel, Diflubenzuron, Metronidazole and acriflavine)
<... for?>
and redness around their nose area. What to do next I haven't done anymore Rx
only added salt
<? On Symphysodon? A poor idea>
and have kept lights off and feeding sparingly they haven't seemed to have lost
their appetite at all. Thanks in advance.
<Uhh, I'd stop pouring in medications (you're killing these animals with same)
and invest your money and time in educating yourself... There are quite a few
good Discus books about, and some useful information on the Net re the genus.
Ours: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/discusfish.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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