Betta- SMELLS--AGAIN!   2/13/06
I know I and my 1 beta in a 2gal. tank are probably "small fish" to some of these guys and I really appreciate any help here.  
Simple-- I have 1 beta in a 2 gal. bowl--  the water smells like a combo of urine and sulfur?!!!!  I have had this beta now MONTHS
--no problems-ever--  I have changed the rocks out, the tank decoration thinking maybe it was the paint on the decoration (although of course says tank safe)  am now down to just a beta friendly safe plant and new rocks-  after water change- smell goes away for about 1 to 2 days and then back-- is this my FISH smelling like this??  Please help- its actually my 5 year olds fish-- 2nd beta-
THANKS SOO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP AND TIME!!!  Your site is great!!
T. Unrein
<From living in wastes, stagnant, putrid water. Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Smelly Betta Bowl   2/14/06
Wow- you guys are fast! I read your reply/link-  I'm sorry but I'm still stumped-  this fish lived in a 1 gal bowl for months without ever  a smell and weekly water changes-  then came the smell-- then... I moved him to a 2 gal. for more room plus to see if it would help the smell- and am still doing the weekly water changes-- but STILL ....this smell.... I am now thinking its the fish itself-- could there be some kind of beta disease in which HE actually is producing the smell??????   Could simply the temp itself if fluctuating too
much cause this smell???  I'll go today to fish store to see about a thermometer at least? THANKS AGAIN!!!
< Excess food and fish waste are being produced but the bacteria that normally break this waste down have either been killed off by medication or cleaned out by water changes. Feed you Betta once a day . Remove any uneaten food after two minutes with a siphon. Fish food quickly fouls a tank so it is important to get it out of there if the fish will not eat it. Add some poly filter. This looks like a little white sponge. Cut it up into little one inch cubes. Hide one cube in the bowl, like in an ornament. As it absorbs waste it will turn dark brown and then black. When it starts to get dark replace it with a new cube. This should help.-Chuck>

Persistent High Nitrite Level FW  1/31/06
I have read other messages on your site and other articles on other sites about high nitrite levels, but I still don't quite get it.
I have a 10 gallon tank with 10 fish:
2 balloon belly mollies
2 ghost catfish
5 orange von Rio tetras
1 algae eater
There are many, many small snails that were acquired accidentally with an aquatic plant that died some time ago. . . The snails, however, live on
and reproduce at a staggering rate.
<Mmm, you might want to collect and remove a bunch of these periodically... easy to draw to a small glass tray with a sinking bit of algae based food or blanched vegetable... as bait>
Until today, I had a philodendron sticking out the top of the tank with its roots submerged. I took it out thinking that this was perhaps contributing to the problem.
<Oh! Yes>
About a week ago one of my mollies (there were three) started to act strangely as if she couldn't submerge. She would still eat when given
food, but couldn't swim down to eat off the bottom like she always had. She had also lost a lot of weight. Eventually, she became very lethargic
and got to the point where she was upside down and couldn't turn over. I took her and another sample of tank water to the local pet store. They
said it didn't look like she had any disease and offered no explanation as to her condition. I assumed it was just old age and I only include
this description in case it is symptomatic of some other problem. Anyway, when the girl at the store tested the water (something I had
never done--shame on me), she said that the pH level was low and that I should increase it with a pH increaser.
I bought the pH increaser and a test kit that tests for NO3, NO2, GH, KH, and pH. When I got home, I did a 30% water change and added 1 tsp of
salt, which is my normal routine. (I keep around 3 tsp of salt in the water at all times.) I did not add any pH increaser.
I tested the water immediately afterward and it looked OK except the water was hard, so I added a teaspoon of salt. The next day, however,
the levels were as follows:
NO3 = 40
<I'd keep this under 20 ppm>
NO2 = 1.0
<Dangerous... should be zip, nada, zilch>
GH = 300
KH = 0
pH = 6.8
I added another teaspoon of salt and changed the filter which was very dirty (because I had made the water very silty the last time I changed
it--explanation below).
The next day, the nitrite level was at 3.0.
<Yeeikes!>
I did another 30% change and waited an hour before testing. The nitrite had gone down to 1.0. One day later, it was back up to 3.0. The next day, 3.0 again. The
following day, 5.0. Today, it was still 5.0 so I did another 30% water change.
One hour later, the levels are as follows:
NO3 = 40
NO2 = 3.0
GH = 150
KH = 40
pH = 7.2
There is currently about 8 teaspoons of salt in the water.
<Mmm, you might want to mix some of this salt up in tapwater and test it for nitrite...>
The strange thing (to me) is that the fish seem to be happy and healthy. From everything I have read in the past few days, a 5.0 nitrite level
should have them dropping like flies!
<Let's see... luckily your pH is low... if it were a little higher, the nitrite would be MUCH more toxic>
I have checked for brown coloring of the gills and see none. They are not gasping for air at the top of
the tank either. I can only surmise from what I have read that the salt is keeping the nitrite from being as toxic as it otherwise could be.
<Oh, yes... this also>
I have noticed the mollies scraping themselves occasionally on a structure in the tank. I read today that this was one sign of nitrite poisoning.
I have had this tank for 8 months now and only three fish have died in that time (except for the batch I introduced right at the beginning
before the tank had cycled!). About a month ago, I did a very thorough cleaning of the tank. I really stirred up the waste on the bottom, trying
to get as much out as possible. I took out all the structures and washed them with hot (not soapy) water. I changed the filter as well. I also
started feeding them much more around that time. Basically, I unwittingly did everything I could to raise the nitrite level!
My questions are this:
1. Why isn't the level decreasing?
<I suspect the houseplant>
2. Why are the fish still alive and acting normal?
<They're tough, adapted to it, and the salt>
3. I have read on some sites of a biological filter or a biofilter: Is this (a) just another name for the normal filter,
<Mmm, of a sort... all filters are ultimately biological to degrees>
(b) a different kind of filter that I should have, or (c) just a term that refers to the
nitrogen cycle that occurs within the tank?
<Mostly the latter>
4. Could the snails be causing problems?
<Yes... carry disease... and can influence water quality in high numbers>
5. I have read that most of the bacteria live on the filter. Wouldn't changing the filter then lead to these levels getting all out of whack every time?
<Yes... a common problem/occurrence. In established systems not such an issue>
Thank you for any help you can provide.
- Bryan
<I would read over WWM re FW filtration, add more filtration, remove the houseplant, reduce the number of snails, test the salt... Bob Fenner>

Re: Persistent High Nitrite Level... Betta systems and snail removal technique  2/3/06
Thank you.
After removing the philodendron, the nitrite levels immediately dropped and are now < 0.5 ppm. Other levels are beginning to even out as well.
<Ah, good>
I thought you also might like to know that I have rigged up a plastic fork on some fishing line as a snail remover. I stick a piece of vegetable on the tines of the fork, and when a few snails crawl on, I hoist it up and scrape them off. It's not pretty, but it's been fairly effective!
<Neat! Bob Fenner>

Betta Could Be Feelin’ Betta – 01/11/2005
Hi!  I just got a Betta for Christmas that came in a vase with a peace lily plant.  I read on the internet that this is not necessarily a good arrangement and put the Betta in 1 gallon bowl instead.  
<Though the peace lily arrangement can be done successfully, it takes a little more care than is usually discussed, and, he’s probably much better off in the larger space.>
Because he came with instructions to change the water only every 6 weeks or so, he was swimming in water that had several dead roots, a few fertilizer pellets, and a few pieces of dirt before I read online that I actually need to change the water every week.  
<Sounds delicious….  I’m glad you’re stepping up your water change schedule!>
I recently noticed he has a little fin rot and put him in a 1 gallon bowl with some aquarium salt and fungus eliminator.  
<For just fin rot, I wouldn’t necessarily start medicating right away – often, improved water conditions alone will bring about a “cure”.>
Around that time, I noticed that the skin/scales under on chin was turning slightly grey.  It’s been 5 days, and now he is grey around the mouth, a little around the eyes, and has a few spots of grey on the top of his head.  The grey doesn’t look fuzzy or like grains of salt; it just looks like his gills are turning grey.  I would have that if it was a fungus, the first fungus treatment would have healed it or at least kept it from spreading.  Do you have any idea what might be causing the grey or what to do about it?  
<It is possible that this is natural coloration – but it could be a number of things.  It could be reaction to too strong a dose of medicine, or could be a parasitic protozoan infection….  Does this area look “slimy” or “filmy”?  Is it very plainly the scales that are colored, or does it look as though there is a “haze” on top of the scales?>
Thanks so much for your help!
<I certainly hope to be of more assistance than this….  Please do respond, and we’ll be glad to help you through this.  If at all possible, please let us know your readings for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate (if you don’t have test kits, you can bring a sample of water to the fish store – have them show you the results, and jot the figures down on a piece of paper to let us know).  Also, what is the primary coloration of the Betta?  Many “steel” blue Bettas will have a lot of grayish cast to them.  Also, I urge you to go to any local fish store to look at the Bettas for sale – notice especially how the heads of the Bettas almost invariably are of a different, darker color than the rest of the Betta – what you are seeing on your fish may very well be just normal coloration.  Please get back to us.  Wishing you and your Betta well,  -Sabrina>

Betta and algae
I just noticed some brown spots on the inside of my Betta's tank.  I'm assuming it's a kind of algae.
<Likely so>
  He will hopefully be moving to a new tank soon (5 gallons).  When I move him, is it advisable to put something in the tank to help prevent algae?
<Yes... most appropriately a bit of live aquatic plant life to compete for nutrients, light...>
Do all tanks get algae?
<Yes! A very good question, point... all aquatic biological systems do... very adventitious organisms... that have been on the planet a very long time>
Could I put in some sort of fish or snail or crab perhaps in this situation?
<Yes... not a crab, but there are other erstwhile algae eaters for such size, type systems. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files... in blue, above.>
  My son would love to add something else.  My son would love a crab.  I know there are crabs for salt water but how about ones that are compatible with a Betta's environment?
<Mmm, am very hesitant here... Unfortunately, almost all crabs offered as freshwater are not, nor are they "safe" with such slow moving, docile fish as Bettas... I would NOT mix these two together>
  Also, would a Betta bother another inhabitant?
<There are other compatible fishes... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betcompfaqs.htm>
  I could add them at the same time if that would be better, because the Betta is not in the new tank yet since it isn't cycled yet.
<Ahh, do move some of the Betta's "old" water into the new tank... this will speed things up>
If this is a good idea, what should I add and what if there is no algae yet?
<No, wait till there is>
  Will whatever I add survive?  What other ways are there to prevent algae?  Would my tank be fine
with nothing added? Thanks so much for all your advice.
Kim
<Please read where you lead yourself via the links above. Bob Fenner>

Smelly Tank
Hi. I have a 10 gallon fish tank with 3 small zebras and a Betta fish. The other day after doing a 20% water change, and treating the water with Tetra AquaSafe water conditioner (the recommended amount), I noticed that the top of my tank was covered in air bubbles. Along with these air bubbles came a really bad smell. I tested my water and the only thing that came back high was my PH level. Any help you can give me on this would be greatly appreciated.
Stephanie
<The smell and bubbles usually mean you have some extra organics in the tank. Make sure you always use a gravel vac when you remove water from the tank. Move any rocks, driftwood, bubbling treasure chests, etc., and clean under them. Up the water changes to around 50% and do them daily for a few days. Another possibility is that you see and smell the chlorine being released from the water. If it was that organic, "dirty fish tank" smell do the water changes. If a more chemical, "swimming pool" smell, treat in a bucket before adding the replacement water. Don>

Film on Water (a pet fish in the sky)
Hi again...once again, I need to thank you over and over for your quick responses and wonderful website. It's just great to know that you can get help/advice when you need it from the best! My cycled 3 gallon Eclipse tank w/BioWheel has some sort of problem that I just can't seem to fix. The tank houses 1 male Betta and several plants: Java ferns, 1 Red Ludwigia, & 2 tufts of some long grass. The gravel is not the little stuff but bigger natural colored pebbles. My water readings are Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: Between 5.0 and 10, PH is: Between 7.0 and 7.2. 
Having plants, I leave the light on 7-10 hours a day. The Betta is in excellent health, eats, blows bubble nests regularly every day, has no torn or frayed fins. 
The problem is, every 3 days I develop a film (like floating patches) on the top of the tank. If I view the top of the water with a flashlight they look worse. I do a 10-20 percent water change each week just to get rid of this stuff. Also 1 time per week I vacuum a selected section of the tank and I also have washed my carbon cartridge filter (but not at the same time) because it seems to get a lot of plant debris, etc., which does seem to help more than the water change. I have tried to wick this away with paper towels...it seems to just break up and float around. 
Can someone tell me what this is and if there is a better way to get rid of it? Could my plants be causing any of this film? I am afraid that it could harm my Betta eventually. I am also concerned about the continual water changes and filter washing affecting my cycled tank eventually, so far it has not but if this keeps up I am afraid that it will. Thank you again, Sue
<Hi Sue. The film is most likely from the Betta's food. It will not cause a problem. In fact if it's causing you to do an extra water change once a week then I would call it a good thing. As long as you do not clean the bio wheel you should not have a problem. The main concern would be a thick layer preventing gas exchange at the surface. Doesn't sound like you're close to that. It dose sound like you have a happy Betta there. Good job. Don>

Siamese Fighting Fish feeding 8/31/05
Hi, I recently purchased a Siamese Fighting Fish named Dragon and have made a home for it by itself in a double Penn-Plax Betta Bow Front Tank (no, this is not an advertisement for Penn-Plax).
I have just noticed that Dragon has not consumed any of the Penn-Plax Pro Balance Betta Food Pellets I have fed it over the past week. Every time I place a pellet in the tank he swims around it extremely disinterested. I am worried and do not know what to do.
Please advise.
<Hi Prudence, Jorie here.  Some Bettas are extremely picky with what they eat.  I am not familiar with the pellets you describe, but I'd try offering your fish either frozen, then thawed bloodworms or Mysid shrimp.  To thaw, you can add some garlic extract to the water (just a drop!) Garlic is an appetite stimulant and most fish can't resist food soaked in it! You could try soaking a pellet in the garlic extract as well (for a different feeding, of course) and see if that makes him interested.  If not, try switching brands of dry food.  I personally like Hikari's Betta food - good quality stuff.>
Thanks ;)
P.S. Re cleaning the tank (bowl), I know that I should half empty the tank each week and add treated water, however is it best to take the fish out and clean the whole tank i.e. stones and all?.
<No, you don't want to remove the fish each time you do a water change, as this will needlessly stress him out.  Leaving the stones in place will allow the tank to cycle, as the beneficial bacteria will establish colonies underneath.  If things get really grungy, in time, it's OK to clean everything and temporarily re-house your Betta, but you shouldn't need to do that more than once a year or so...assuming the tank you are describing has filtration (Sorry, not familiar with the brand).  Just be careful not to overfeed and the tank will stay cleaner!  Good luck, Jorie>

Cloudy water  8/31/05
I have my Betta in a 3.5 gal aquarium that was cycled for a month before buying the fish.  Temp is 80 and steady.  I treated for fin rot as he got a hole in his tail and the next day it expanded to missing a large chunk so Maracyn 2 was added for 5 days.  That was last week and I did my water change on Saturday, by Sunday I had a white cloudy water problem.
<The Minocycline (the M II) has forestalled your cycling...>
I understand from web info that this is probably a bacteria problem.
<Yes... a "population explosion">
I've checked for ammonia and so far so good.  Do you recommend I leave it alone, add a water treatment to clear it, do some water changes?
<The last...>
My little guy is not quite acting his usual self so am wondering if he is stressed?
<Yes, likely so>
Spends more time swimming and resting on or near bottom of tank.  I don't usually have the air pump on but have started running it in case water needs oxygenating.  Any suggestions are appreciated.
New owner
<Bettas don't need air in their water... are aerial respirators, but you do want to move the water through your filter... Bob Fenner>

Cleaning gravel in Betta tank
Hi there --
First, thank you so much for all the information on this site!
I've been poking around the 'net looking for clues to help my Betta -- suddenly listing a bit and exhibiting a lot of gill activity.
I think I found those clues here, but I also want to completely clean his tank -- there's usually green algae, but recently the algae on the gravel is looking darker, nearly black, and grows back really fast after a tank
cleaning. I saw on another site a mention of using alcohol to clean the tank and the gravel; and a mention on your site of using chlorine bleach to clean decorations; and another about using vinegar for deposits.
Before I do something that's going to hurt our Betta, can you chime in on what you consider the best way to clean his environment?
< Pour everything into a 5 gallon plastic bucket. Take the tank out side and give it a good rinse with a high pressure garden hose. Wipe the algae down with your hand or a mildly abrasive cloth. Try it our in an area that is not easily seen. Plastic can scratch and you don't want that. Rinse off the ornaments too. Take the gravel in the bottom of the bucket and agitate it with the garden hose until the gravel is clean. Put everything back in the tank with fresh treated warm water. Now watch the food. Feed him only enough food so that everything will be eaten in two minutes! The live plant will help filter the fishes waste.-Chuck>
He's in a plastic
Betta tank with a small light for heat; the bottom is lined with the gravel that came with the tank; we added a clump of live grass, which he loves; and there's one decorative glass fish suspended by a plastic bubble.
Thanks for your help,
Terri

Converting from bottled to tap water
Dear Crew:
My Betta Stewie (the Scooter) is doing fine. He is in a Hex 5 aquarium with aquarium salt and stress coat as the only additives. All chemical tests are on the mark. The Ph is between 7.2 and 7.6. My conditioned tap water with aquarium salt and bowl buddies (easier to treat one gallon size jugs) has a Ph of 6.8 to 7.0. How can I convert him gradually to the tap water?
Thank you,
Sue Kennedy
< Every time you do a water change use the tap water. Start out doing small ones say 10 to 15 % and gradually increase it to 30% as part of your normal maintenance.-Chuck>

A sick Betta environment
Hi.  I hope you can help us.  We just got home from a 3 day trip and noticed our Betta (Zeta) was not acting normally.  He was laying on the bottom of his tank, quite unresponsive and lethargic.  Then he suddenly started darting around with his back sort of arched.  Almost as if he was having some sort of convulsions.  He keeps doing this in turn with just laying around...and sometimes laying sideways.  He also seems as if he is gasping for air.  Our house/pet sitter said he would not eat anything the past 2 days.  We immediately took him out of his tank and put him in one of his older tanks with de-chlorinated water.  This hasn't improved his behavior yet.  We've had him since last December so he's not very old.  I've looked at some sites on Betta illnesses, but none really have his same symptoms.  There is no fungus in the tank, no spots on him. in fact, he looks totally healthy except for the symptoms I've told you about.  Please help us to determine what is wrong with him and what we can do to help him. He is usually a very active, social fish and we don't want him to have any sort of pain or discomfort.
Thank you,
Pam
< Chances are that the food that he wasn't eating was decomposing and causing an ammonia spike that has chemically burned his gills and has caused him some discomfort. It will take awhile for the gills to fully recuperate.  So be patient and keep the water clean. Feed only enough food so it will be all gone in a couple of minutes. I never have any body feed my fish unless I am gone longer than a week. Untrained help usually causes more problems than they solve.-Chuck>

Betta & 10 gal home
Hi Chuck
How's this tank scenario for my 1 male Betta?
10 gallon - all to himself (maybe a couple of ghost shrimps down the road)
< When the ghost shrimp shed their exoskeleton as they grow they will be very soft and vulnerable to being eaten by the Betta. Be sure that they have a place to hide after they have shed.>
I think I'll go with gravel rather than sand - as I'm interested in attractive easy main plant life
What do you know of pea gravel?
< I find pea gravel (Gravel the size if individual peas) is too coarse and food is often trapped in the wide pore spaces between the gravel grains making it unavailable to fish. It will decompose and cause problems.>
Would it be beneficial to mix-in Fluorite red (thoroughly rinsed) for my seemingly low maint. plants such as: Anubias, Java fern, Java Moss or (hornwort- it require cooler waters?) and would my plants benefit with
something additional in its gravel?
< Only add the Fluorite if you were to add plants that were rooted. Hornwort is very adaptive and worth a try.>
I did hear that any salt will start to dissolve the java ferns/moss. At the rate I'm using salt .5 teaspoon per
gallon-will this start to harm the plants in any way and would my tank be considered as "brackish"
< Anytime salt is added it is brackish. There are no salinity parameters for that term.>
I've been using salt since:
My Betta at one time had holes in his dorsal & the salt healed them in 1 day & a half.
< Bettas do not come from areas normally associated with salt. AS the waters they occupy in the wild begin to evaporate , some salts and minerals may be concentrated with them but the concentration would still be very low.>
What do you think of the Liberty 100GPH -which my pet shop has-includes 1 carbon cartridge and biological sponge. And lever to control water flow-for my Betta. From what I understand the sponge will prevent the tank from recycling when I change carbon cartridge.
< Too much water flow. Get something smaller. Why get a filter that pumps so much water just to crank in down ? Eheim is a quality brand but I think it is still too much filter for what you need.>
My pet shop has treated bogwood, which sinks readily-they say I don't need to soak it. Does this affect ph for my Betta. Is driftwood preferable? And do you know anything about "Swahala" driftwood.
< If the wood is already water logged then it will have less of an impact that wood that is not. As wood decomposes it releases tannins like in tea that will slightly acidify the water but this is usually not a problem. Never heard of Swahala wood.>
I came across a site that promotes "fishless" cycling...do you think its the way to go , if I follow directions carefully?.
< With just one Betta I would place him in the tank and just monitor it. Change water when needed and don't feed too much and I think you will be fine.>
The pet shop guy is recommending white clouds to cycle & he said I could return them to the shop after I'm through Should I put the plants in before I cycle?
I still would like to keep with the .5 teaspoon of aquarium salt per gal & still maintain healthy plant growth if possible Eagerly awaiting your response
Thanks again...
< I would add the plants and when the water is warmed up I would add the Betta. Let the Betta cycle the tank. The plants will help. You could cycle the tank by adding an ammonia solution to the tank to feed the bacteria. I don't think it is needed.-Chuck>
Diane

A Siamese fighter- stress
I've recently bought a Siamese fighter (male).. about 2 weeks ago I think. Up until now he has been perfect, no signs of stress, eating as much as I give him (about 2-3 blood worms per day, recommended by the pet shop people).. <A good treat food. Your Betta would be better off with a more varied diet. A lot of good Betta food on the market> I have done the mirror trick about 3 times in total to see what kind of temperament the little guy had, and also to show him to friends, etc. I realize that putting a mirror where he can see his reflection would cause stress, but am sure that this is not the cause of the problem, as this problem has started at least a week after the last time I did the mirror thing. The problem is that he seems to get really scared every time I put my hand or anything else near the bowl.. I'm pretty sure this started when I put a camera close to him to take his picture.. it is the first time I've observed this type of reaction. Note that it was not after I took the picture (with flash) that he got scared.. simply showing him the camera did this. I find this *extremely* odd..<I think it pretty normal for a fish to fear an object much larger than themselves suddenly shoved up to the tank> I'm pretty sure he's displaying fear because he begins thrashing about in the water when I put objects close to him. I have changed his water and used the correct amount of water conditioner <Only once in two weeks on a blood worm diet?>.. he's in a small tank on his own, not sure of the temperature, <Warm water fish. You need a small heater to keep the tank in the mid to upper 70's.> He's not in direct sunlight.. not sitting next to any loud speakers or anything.. I've got no idea what's going on. <First you need to start doing more water changes. Next improve his diet and add a heater. A very low flow filter would help a lot. But you want very little current in a small Betta tank. I think all those rich blood worms are fouling the water in a day or so. His thrashing could be the result.>  
If you could get back to me with some questions or suggestions that would be great.
Thanks a lot.
Regards,
Sam <Don>

Betta in Paradise
All my chemical tests are good. <Great, but would like to see the numbers> I feed my Betta Hikari <Great brand> freeze-dried brine shrimp, Tubifex worms and daphnia in sort of a dry blend. <Great mix of foods! Maybe add a high quality Betta flake or pellet.> He eats small amounts twice a day, three times on weekends. <A little too much, IMO. Once, twice a day is fine. Skipping all feeding one day a week is not a bad thing.> The pH is being lowered gradually from 7.6 to 7.0 by switching from bottled to tap water. <Not too bad an adjustment. You should get this done in two, three days. Then you can go nuts with water changes.> Temp is a constant 80 and he resides in a Hex 5 filtered aquarium. <You are a Betta Goddess!> Problem? Last Thursday I gave him his mirror for his usual two minute session-it ended up being a half hour because I got totally sidetracked. <No need for this at all! But it is cool to watch.> Since then he still has his appetite but tends to rest more on his plants.  He is not as active. He doesn't appear to have any signs of disease. I always use aquarium salt and Bowl Buddies for a water conditioner- I did use Stress Coat <Glad that you stopped. I don't like this product at all.> but I age his water by the gallon and Bowl Buddies is a more exact measure. <I use only a dechlorinator. Nothing else. Works for me> Help! <Why, you're doing fine!> Is something wrong or is this just a phase. I think he might be a year old-he was kept terribly and I rescued him. <Many thanks!>
Thank you
Sue
<Hi Sue, Don here. Have you done a water change since you totally PO'ed him last week? That may help. If you do not see any signs of illness then I think he's OK. Do a water change and keep an eye out for bloating, ragged fins, white spots etc..>    

Betta in a bowl
<Hi Bob,>
Jorie here...
<I'm pretty new at this fish stuff, so sorry for my ignorance.>
You don't have to apologize - you are doing the right thing by asking questions...that's how we all learn!
<I have a Betta in a bowl,>
How many gallons of water in the bowl? Hopefully it is at least 1 gal., as that is the very minimum size I would personally consider keeping a Betta in.  I keep two in separate 3 gal. Eclipse tanks, and I find this to be a perfect size.
<...but about 3 days ago I noticed that his right eye is bulging out.>
This is likely a disease called "Popeye" , which is caused almost exclusively by poor water conditions.  I would suggest changing around 75% of the water ASAP, making sure to match the temperature (Bettas like warm, tropical water around 80-82 degrees...get a little floating thermometer from the pet store to monitor the temp. if you don't already have one) as closely as possible.
<I put a live plant in the bowl about 2-3 days before this and I have some fake floating fish in the bowl.>
Curious as to why the live plant...this certainly isn't necessary.  I'm glad you are feeding the Betta (some BAD pet store owners tend to mis-inform their customers that Bettas will eat the roots of the live plant...this just isn't true, so I'm glad you aren't doing this!) Also, do be careful on how much you are feeing your little friend...his stomach is about the same size as his eye.  Most importantly, all food should be consumed within 2-3 minutes of being introduced into the bowl...don't let food sit around and rot, as that will just pollute the water, cause build up of toxins, and lead to poor water conditions and finally diseases such as "Popeye".  When you do your next water change, be sure to remove as much excess food as possible, if any has accumulated.
<He just sits on the side of the bowl and today was the 1 st time he has eaten. I took the plant out, but I would think that both of his eyes would be bulging if this was some sort of reaction to the plant and I also removed the fake fishies. I bought a bottle of MelaFix today and added 1/2 teaspoon to the bowl, should I continue this treatment or go the Epsom salt route or nothing at all???>
Again, you should do a large water change, and continue to change the water in his bowl frequently.  Without knowing how large the container is, I can't tell you exactly how frequently.  Personally, I do 50% water changes 1x per week on my Bettas' 3 gal. tanks.  If you don't have a test kit already, consider purchasing one to measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate so that you can check these important parameters (all should ideally be at zero).  Also, I'd suggest you do a Google search on "nitrogen cycle" and "aquarium" to learn about these words that may be foreign to you.
<Oh' he has these light colored stripes on his side too!?! I don't do any water testing, I just use Bowl Buddies when changing the water.>
I'm not sure what Bowl Buddies are - is it a dechlorinator? If you are using just straight tap water for your Betta, you do indeed need to dechlorinate...I used to use a product called ChlorOut, but my suspicion is that Bowl Buddies may be the same.  Whatever product you buy, look for the word "dechlorinator".
<HELP PLEASE!!! I don't want Alpha to die!!>
Hopefully we've caught this in time...again, do a large water change ASAP, read up on basic Betta care (in fact, check out the message boards here on WWM, as there are many Betta fanatics who can gladly walk you through Betta care, step by step).  Chances are your Betta's health will improve just as soon as you clean up his environment. Do be sure to maintain this clean water, as well. Good luck.
<Thank You, Brandi>
You're welcome.  Jorie