Betta Getting An Upgrade  9/19.5/05
I've attempted to maintain various kinds of fish off and on for many years with little luck. I always get so confused about all the details and my fish rarely survive too long. However, I bought a Betta (my third attempt at keeping a Betta fish) almost a year and a half ago. His name is Otogi Banashi (Japanese for "fairytale"). I call him 'Togi most of the time though. I am so happy that he has lived for so long already! He's healthy, active, curious, always eats his food, etc. I kept him in one of those itty bitty one liter bowls for about a month at first until I could afford something better. I changed the water in that little bowl every week. Then I got a two gallon acrylic bowl that is meant to look like a bubble gum machine. I thought it looked pretty groovy so I got it. 'Togi is still in this bowl and doing fine. Its a very simple set up with an undergravel filter. However, there is no gravel in this bowl. <Then is it really an "undergravel filter"?> I still use the decorative bubble gum-like round "rocks" that came with it. I change the water 100% every month with the same brand of bottled water. Since I got 'Togi, I've done all the reading I can on maintaining a Betta and it seems that much of what I do is wrong. Only, when I did attempt the "proper" form of fish maintenance with my other fish, they never lived. I am afraid to change anything. <Good! I don't want you to change a thing, yet> I've heard that gravel is the best thing to use in a tank. Is this true? I've gotten mixed answers concerning water changes and this whole tank cycle thing I read about still has me all confused. Is it bad that I change all the water instead of partial water changes? If I switch to a "proper" gravel set up, should I do only partial water changes then to maintain good bacteria? I'm only so concerned now because I am planning to get a different tank for 'Togi: a 2.5 gallon acrylic tank with only an undergravel filter. But I want to use real gravel this time and I don't want to do anything wrong. Can I still continue as I have with complete water changes and all that jazz or can you recommend something better? Am I just lucky that 'Togi has lived this long? After a year and a half of coincidental success, I'd still be awful bummed if my fish dies now.
-Shelley
<I think it's great that you are upgrading your Betta's home. A 2.5 gallon is a nice size for a single Betta. But I would not add the undergravel filter (UGF). Instead add a sponge filter. (And don't forget a heater.) Too much waste will end up under the UGF plate, very hard to clean. The sponge will provide a home for the bacteria, so the use of gravel is up to you. With a UGF the bulk of the bacteria will live in the gravel, so you need it. But it will take time, about a month, for the bacteria to become established no matter what type of filtration you use. So get everything set up and running, but do not move him right away. Continue with the same care you have given him. To understand cycling, or bio filtration, you really need to be able to test the water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Simply put, when you feed the fish they will excrete ammonia. A bacteria grows that eats the ammonia and excretes nitrite. Another bacteria grows that eats the nitrite and excretes nitrate. Nitrate is removed during water changes. The first two are deadly and must be kept at zero. Nitrate is less harmful as long as it is kept below 20ppm. But without testing you can never know when the new tank is ready for fish. And since we do not have any fish in the tank, we must add an ammonia source to feed the bacteria. A small pinch of food every day will work. I use a raw shrimp. It will last a week or two without any other work on your part. If you don't have a test kit see if a LFS will test for you. If you can't get the tests done, then let everything run for 6 weeks, adding that pinch of food daily. Then a 50% water change and add your Betta. Now that your fish is in a cycled tank you can go to partial water changes. A gallon a week for a single Betta in a 2.5 would be fine. But without those tests, it's all a guess. Good luck. Don>

Still a Little Confused re Betta questions 9/21/05
I'm still a little confused. So its OK not to bother with gravel at all and a sponge filter is an acceptable replacement for biological/mechanical filtration. This part makes sense. But then I hear so many terrible stories about fish dying cause their tank cycle starts over. Wouldn't replacing the sponge filter cause the cycle to start over? And what if I decide not to do anything different at all? What exactly is transpiring in my Betta's aquarium now without the use of filtration and tank cycling? The new tank I am getting for him is only slightly larger but not in the form of a bowl like he is in now. It has an undergravel filter plate and water pump just like the bowl I have now. So if I decide to use gravel or a sponge filter then I have this bacteria stuff and tank cycle thing to worry about. Does that mean there is no bacteria growth like this in the current set up? Is it still a bad thing to use something like the current decorative gumballs I use now and just clean out the entire tank, water and all every three weeks? What if I set up his new tank with gravel and the UGF is able to function as such. . . Is it the presence of all that bacteria that makes it imperative to do only partial water changes so as not to mess up any sort of cycle or am I already messing up water cycles doing things the way I have been? I guess I just want to know if its possible and OK to maintain a sinology beta aquarium without using the tank cycle process. And also if the presence of gravel or a sponge filter would make it imperative that I use tank cycling. What if I had gravel and still cleaned out the entire tank gravel and all every three weeks? Would that have the same effect on the aquarium as it does now or is that something entirely different? Sorry I ask so many strange questions, I just really don't understand tank cycling and when or if it is required.
-Shelley
<OK. First read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm This is a paper written by Bob Fenner, the man who started and runs this site. It is chock full off all the info you will need. But it will make much more sense if you have a test kit and can watch it happen. The two bacteria I explained in the last email do not live swimming in the water. They need a surface to cling to that has a flow of water bringing them their food (ammonia for one, nitrite for the second). With a UGF that surface area will be the gravel, so you need to add gravel to get the best effect. With a sponge filter the sponge itself provide the surface area for the bacteria to grow on. So gravel is optional. The sponge will provide little particle filtration but very high bio filtration. (There is a great deal of surface area on and in a sponge.) Weekly water changes will remove the particles. A UGF hides the particles under the plate. It can get real nasty under there and is hard to clean without removing all the gravel. A sponge makes clean up much easier. Just rinse in old tank water when you do change. Never rinse with tap, the chlorine will kill the bacteria. In a well established tank the ammonia and nitrite level will always be zero. The bacteria will consume them as quickly as they are produced. Will your current setup provide enough surface area for the bacteria? I don't know. You need those tests to get the answer. But if you are cleaning the "gum balls" when you service the tank, you are also removing the bacteria. This will cause ammonia and nitrite levels to rise. Not good. But with faithful water changes a tough little Bette can handle it, for a time. But repeated exposure to these poisons will shorten his life. If you establish a good strong bacterial colony in the sponge, missing a water change will only cause the less dangerous nitrate to rise. Far safer for your fish and less work for you. A win situation. 100% water changes, meds, or any sharp change in your tank can stress the bacteria and cause a spike (recycle). But as long as you chill out and let them little buggers do their thing, all will be fine. So, get a test kit, read Bob's paper, reread my first email and email me back with any other questions or concerns. Your Betta will thank you. Don>   

Betta Housing  9/19.5/05
Thanks for the reply.  Sounds like I have to convince the wife that Bob the Betta is happiest on his own (although snacking on the blue shrimp might make him even happier!).
I realize it's not a 10g tank, but I didn't think of the bowl as little (18-20 inches high, and about 14 inches across at the widest point).  Is that too small for a Betta if the water is changed 2-3X a week?
< If you feed your Betta sparingly and remove any left over food after a couple of minutes with a siphon or a net then you may get by with once a week. More will not hurt. A good rule of thumb would be if you notice any smell to the water then it is a good time to change it.>
What about the submerged filter option I mentioned - would that make it more habitable?
< A filter will increase the water circulation and improve water quality when it is seasoned with nitrifying bacteria. Bettas really don't like too much water flow.>
I occasionally swat mosquitoes flying around my office (between my hands).  Based on the comments about waiting for insects, can I toss these dead mosquitoes in the bowl for him?
< Sure, try them . If he doesn't eat them after a while then you will need to take them out.>
We are going to get a hand siphon pump today, so we can easily change the water in the bowl.  I figure 25% of volume, 2-3 times a week.  We have a source for bottled spring water we can use instead of tap
water; is that a sound alternative to trying to get the chlorine to evaporate from tap water?
< Sounds good.-Chuck> Thanks for the help, George

10 Gallon Betta tank  9/19.5/05
Dear WWM crew:  
I haven't had to write in a while, because you guys (and gals) gave me such excellent advice when I was first starting up the hobby about a year and a half ago. Glad you're still here! I now have a 40 gallon freshwater tank up and running, and have just re-started up my initial 10 gallon tank to house 1 Betta and 3 red platies. I am using a small Aqua-tech 10-20 filter so I get SOME filtration, not too much water movement for the Betta.  My temperature is at 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
This filter doesn't have a bio-wheel, but it has a bio-fiber filter in addition to the regular carbon filter, which means it provides biological, mechanical, and chemical filtration. I also used water from my established tank in order to eliminate (minimize?) the cycling process. I need a second opinion about my choices regarding lack of water movement and filtration. I'd like to add one airstone for a little movement, but I'm wondering if even that would be too much for my Betta.
I know these choices are enough for the Betta, but have I created a comfortable home for the platies?  I have added lots of plastic plants (a.k.a. places to hide), which I know the Betta sometimes likes to have,
the gravel is dark, and the light is low and diffused. Also, at present, I have no plans to add fish, but would there be room for another platy if I did?  Thanks in advance,
Cyndy Monarez
>>>Hi Cindy
I wouldn't add anymore fish to that tank.
Secondly, regarding the water movement, all I can suggest is to try the airstone and see if the results are satisfactory. If it looks to be a bit too much for the beta, but a small valve in the air line and turn it down a bit.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Jim<<<

Bubbles, heaters and plants  9/7/05
Hi folks,
I've visited your site several times now and really enjoy the advice you dispense.  I'm rather concerned about my Betta, Nox.  He lives in a 1.66 gallon tank with an undergravel filter, an air pump (with air stone) and live plants.
<No heater?>
I have three questions.
First, I recently completed the water change after the first month.  I saved back some of the old water and vacuumed thoroughly before rinsing the plants and decorative stones, left the gravel alone.  Now the entire surface of the tank is covered in bubbles and this seems to be stressing Nox out.  What can I do about this?
<Mmm, be more careful re saving more of the "old" water... setting out the "new" water for a week or more before using>
Second this is a 1.66 gallon tank and I have not found any type of heater rated for use in such a small setting.
<Look to "Hydor" products...>
  I do have a hood lamp that I have been using, which seems to help out.  Where might I find such a heater in Eugene, OR?
<Likely "mail order", from etailers/Net, catalog sales>
Thirdly As I mentioned I have some live plants.  I have tried to raise aquatic plants before without much success, however these "ferns" are going crazy (I can't remember the proper name).
<Likely Ceratopteris... plug this name in...>
  They are budding constantly and I have had to prune them once already and grouped the cuttings in a new bunch.  I was wondering if this is normal and also if I should cycle out the older plants as they are a bit raggedy?
<You could... you want to make sure and leave clear access to the surface... for your Betta's breathing>
The cuttings are doing well so far.
Thanks for your time,
Pylaydia
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Betta Beginnings - 09/02/2005
Hi. I just got 3 Bettas for about 4 days now.
<Much to learn!  Uh, also, PLEASE learn to capitalize properly....  including "I", "I'm", the beginnings of sentences, etc....  We have to fix these errors prior to posting on the site.  It gets very tedious.>
I have some concerns/questions:
1: Summer is almost over, and its getting colder. The temperature at my house during the day is around 80+ degrees, and it gets around the 70s at night. I know that it is going to be colder when fall hits (I live in California).
<Me, too.>
So my question is: do I need a heater for my fishes (keep in mind that I have 3 small bowls--will it fit?),
<Yes, you do, and no, it won't fit in a small bowl.>
and if so, how much is the cheapest, and are they innovative ways to keep the bowls warmer with household products?
<Aside from keeping the room they are in at a constant temperature, there is no such method.>
2: My Bettas are 3 inches (so they are adult, I guess). Well, I'm afraid I am overfeeding them. the problem is, they constantly go to the water surface for food, and feeling sorry for them, I feed them.
I've been feeding them at least 4 pellets and 2 bloodworms a day, per fish. So my question is: am I feeding too much? How many pellets and bloodworms should I feed each Betta?    
<I would offer them this same amount of food every other day.>
3: I've done research, I found out that Bettas can be ear damaged if the volume of say, the TV and boom box, is too loud. And what's more, they can be stressed by the aggravation, and thus, die sooner.
<Correct.>
So my question is: how loud is too loud, for the TV, and for the
boom box?
<I haven't got a decibel statistic for you; use common sense and discretion, and keep your animals far from these devices.>
4: I read from your forum that Bettas like to live in aquariums of at least a quart.
<That's a hazardous minimum.  I urge systems of 2 gallons or more, for environmental stability, which is of the utmost importance to the longevity of ANY fish.>
Two of them are in a fish bowl of dimensions of a 1.5 inch radius (3 inches in diameter), by 5.5 inches tall,
<Distressingly small, and impossible to keep stable....>
and those two are way more happy in them (they blow bubble nests regularly)  
<You've had the animals less than a week....  I assure you, these volumes are far too small for long-term survival.  Such containers are developed for people who tend to be more interested in aesthetics than the lives forced to live in such confines.  These fish will not be "happy" for a great deal of time, I fear.>
than my other fish, which is in a 1.5 quart aquarium, and it was 2 days late in blowing bubbles nests.
<Even this is too small....  but better, at least.  Bubblenests, this early on, are pretty much irrelevant in gauging the fish's status.>
The question is, should I upgrade to a bigger aquarium?
<I would, absolutely, if at all possible.  A 10 gallon tank divided into three sections with substrate and decor would be great.>
Thank you so much for getting the time out to help me.
<Please read more here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm .  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Betta Beginnings - II - 09/04/2005
Hello Sabrina.
<Hello, again!>
Thank you so much for helping me out so quickly. I wish every business was as reliant as you. I will be getting a bigger aquarium soon, equipped with a heater, so rest assured, my Bettas will no
longer be suffering.
<Wonderful to hear, my friend!!>
P.S.: I capitalized just for you!
<I am truly grateful.  Thank you very much.  Wishing you and your scaly pals well,  -Sabrina>

Betta Beginnings - IV - 10/29/2005
Oh yes. I am putting a lot of thought and care into my Bettas' well-being because they are the first organisms that I have managed to keep alive for more than a week. TWO WHOLE MONTHS NOW!!! :) Laters. 
<Excellent news, my friend! I am delighted to have been of help - keep up the good work, sounds like you and your fish are doing awesome! -Sabrina>

Cloudy water  8/31/05
I have my Betta in a 3.5 gal aquarium that was cycled for a month before buying the fish.  Temp is 80 and steady.  I treated for fin rot as he got a hole in his tail and the next day it expanded to missing a large chunk so Maracyn 2 was added for 5 days.  That was last week and I did my water change on Saturday, by Sunday I had a white cloudy water problem.
<The Minocycline (the M II) has forestalled your cycling...>
I understand from web info that this is probably a bacteria problem.
<Yes... a "population explosion">
I've checked for ammonia and so far so good.  Do you recommend I leave it alone, add a water treatment to clear it, do some water changes?
<The last...>
My little guy is not quite acting his usual self so am wondering if he is stressed?
<Yes, likely so>
Spends more time swimming and resting on or near bottom of tank.  I don't usually have the air pump on but have started running it in case water needs oxygenating.  Any suggestions are appreciated.
New owner
<Bettas don't need air in their water... are aerial respirators, but you do want to move the water through your filter... Bob Fenner>

Siamese Fighting Fish feeding 8/31/05
Hi, I recently purchased a Siamese Fighting Fish named Dragon and have made a home for it by itself in a double Penn-Plax Betta Bow Front Tank (no, this is not an advertisement for Penn-Plax).
I have just noticed that Dragon has not consumed any of the Penn-Plax Pro Balance Betta Food Pellets I have fed it over the past week. Every time I place a pellet in the tank he swims around it extremely disinterested. I am worried and do not know what to do.
Please advise.
<Hi Prudence, Jorie here.  Some Bettas are extremely picky with what they eat.  I am not familiar with the pellets you describe, but I'd try offering your fish either frozen, then thawed bloodworms or Mysid shrimp.  To thaw, you can add some garlic extract to the water (just a drop!) Garlic is an appetite stimulant and most fish can't resist food soaked in it! You could try soaking a pellet in the garlic extract as well (for a different feeding, of course) and see if that makes him interested.  If not, try switching brands of dry food.  I personally like Hikari's Betta food - good quality stuff.>
Thanks ;)
P.S. Re cleaning the tank (bowl), I know that I should half empty the tank each week and add treated water, however is it best to take the fish out and clean the whole tank i.e. stones and all?.
<No, you don't want to remove the fish each time you do a water change, as this will needlessly stress him out.  Leaving the stones in place will allow the tank to cycle, as the beneficial bacteria will establish colonies underneath.  If things get really grungy, in time, it's OK to clean everything and temporarily re-house your Betta, but you shouldn't need to do that more than once a year or so...assuming the tank you are describing has filtration (Sorry, not familiar with the brand).  Just be careful not to overfeed and the tank will stay cleaner!  Good luck, Jorie>

Betta fish freaked out, attacking walls  8/31/05
Hello,
<Hi - I'm Jorie>
I recently moved my Betta fish to a 10 gallon tank after reading your enlightening articles on the cruelty of those little Betta bowls (I was so ignorant!).
<Hey, we all have to start learning somewhere, right?>
The tank is heated at 80 degrees, has a filter and an aerator, and some soft fake plants and medium gravel. I let the whole setup run for an entire day and tested the water before putting him in (he's in there alone). He has been in the tank for 3 days, and is completely freaked out.
<It's normal for a fish to take some time to adapt to his new surroundings...>
I expected that he would freak out at first, but his behavior is increasingly manic. After the first day, I turned off the aerator and the filter, and that seemed to help a tiny bit.
<I agree with your decision to turn off the aeration, but am not sure about the filter.  What kind of filtration unit is this? Bio-wheel, carbon filter, etc.?>
But he has refused to slow down long enough to eat. After a day, he started attacking the sides of the tank, flaring at his reflection (or what I assume to be his reflection) and bumping against the sides with his nose. He has never ever been an aggressive fish before this, I couldn't get him to flare at a mirror held up against his bowl before. But now, he's a complete maniac. I'm worried because he won't eat a thing and doesn't seem to be acclimating to his new home at all.
<I've found that each Betta is different in personality - I once had one who was so neurotic he spent almost his entire life hiding inside a fake ornament in his 3 gal. tank.  For him, I was extremely careful to make sure his tank wasn't in a heavily trafficked area, and that he wasn't bumped up against the other Betta tank.  For your situation, I'd suggest turning off the tank light for a bit to let him relax.  Cover the entire tank with a towel to simulate night time and let him calm down.>
The tank is still cycling, I'm testing every day and today the pH was 7.2, the ammonia was 0.25ppm, and the nitrites were 0. So it's still very early in the cycle.
<This likely isn't helping.  You need to get that ammonia out of the tank ASAP - do a 50-75% water change as soon as you can...the entire problem could be related to the toxins in your Betta's water. Don't worry about disrupting the cycle - when faced with a choice between making the fish more comfortable and prolonging the cycle, well, it really isn't a choice.  The tank will eventually cycle, especially if you turn the filtration back on.>
I'm changing 10% (1 gallon) of the water every other day (using treated water of course).  I am just very worried about my fish, he's not eating and is exhausting himself constantly with his attacks on the aquarium walls. There is a standard sheet of "marine" background against the back of the tank, and the rest of the tank's sides are uncovered. Should I cover the sides of the tank with black paper, do you think that would reduce his reflection?
<Hopefully I've answered this above.  If the marine background is plastic, perhaps it is catching the light and creating a mirror effect? Try taking it off and see if this improves things.>
Should I put him back in his little torture bowl where he seemed so content before?
<Try what I've suggested above.  Definitely do the water change immediately, but try just one of the other suggestions at a time so you can see exactly what works.>
Thank you so much for your assistance, I love this fish like a baby and your help means a lot to me.
<I totally understand - I completely pamper my Bettas also!!! They are like my children!>
Sincerely,
Rachael
<I hope I've helped, Rachel.  Try these tips and I'll cross my fingers that one or more work for you and your Betta.  Sincerely, Jorie>

Dual Betta Tanks 8/29/05
Hi, great site. I currently own a red male Betta named Fuego. In the next few months, I would like to purchase a 10 gallon tank and add a partition in. On one side, I will house Fuego, and some other tank mates and a plant or two. On the other side, I would like to purchase another male Betta and create a similar system.
Will having the two male Bettas close to each other cause stress and problems for either one?
<To an extent, yes... shouldn't be in constant visual access... can try, separate if/when this appears to have become too much>
I've seen the dual tanks for Bettas but they seem too small, which is why I'm planning on the 10g.
<Much better>
My desire isn't to have them see each other, just to have the two tanks connected and side by side. Maybe I should get an opaque partition?
<Ah! Yes, great idea>
I haven't looked into partitions so I'm not sure what's available.
<There are darkened glass and acrylic>
Any input is appreciated.
Best,
Alex
<Bob Fenner>

Betta Tank, reptile heater 08/26/2005
Hi it's me Clayton again and I have one more question. 
<Sure.>
I also own a reptile heater that was used in the past and I was wondering if I might be able to use it with my new Betta in the 15 gallon tank?
<I would not.  Save up for a submersible aquarium heater.>
So ya thanks that's my last question.
<Glad to be of service.  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Betta tank  8/26/05
Hi.
<Hello.>
I just bought a Betta after my last one died around 2 years ago.
<Welcome back to fish!>
In the past I have kept them in a bowl (about 1 or 2 gallons) and I now own a 15 gallon tank that is sitting empty and I was wondering if I should move my Betta into there instead, or will that be to much room for 1 fish?
<Too much room?  No, this 15 gallon tank would make an *excellent* home for him.  You could even add a few other small, peaceful fish, such as Corydoras catfish or platies.>
Also I was wondering the price of a good filter and heating system.
<Depends on where you are, partly.  In the US, a heater for this size tank might run $12 to $25, and a filter (I prefer to recommend a hang-on-back "power" filter) would run $10 to $30.  Lots of options.>
And my last question is for now is there any place I could keep my fish bowl where it could keep warm? 
<Only if you've got a particular spot in your house that stays a constant 75-78 degrees Fahrenheit.>
It seems to drop around 70 during the night and then I have to warm it up again.
<Best to move him into the larger tank and add a heater.  I can almost promise that he'd be delighted with the extra space!  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Divided Bettas - 08/19/2005
I recently bought two Betta fish: one blue and one red.  I just bought today a special tank that can hold both fish because there is a divider.  
<I hope this is one of the "larger" divided Betta systems, on the order of a couple or a few gallons?>
I noticed, though, that the divider has two small slits towards the bottom and the fish have noticed as well.  They frequently swim to the bottom and stare at each other with flaring gills and fins spread out.  I know this is normal when one Betta sees another (at least I hope so!),
<You're correct.>
but can it be harmful if they continue to do this frequently?  
<Occasionally, this is not a problem.  It can become a problem (stress, damaged fins, etc.) if it is frequent or constant.>
What should I do??  
<I would put numerous plants (either live, or very soft, non-abrasive, fake ones) around near the divider, so there's a bit of a break in line-of-sight for them.>
The other question I have is concerning feeding.  I have been giving them the Betta pellets and they have taken well to them.  The package says to feed them 3-4 pellets twice a day and that's what I have been doing for the past few days.  After reading your website, I went out and bought freeze dried blood worms for the Bettas as well.  Now, can I feed them the worms and pellets at the same time or is that harmful?  
<Not harmful....  just keep in mind that it is VERY easy to overfeed a Betta.  I tend to recommend feeding every other day or every third day, and have had excellent results with this myself.>
Can I or should I alternate with worms and pellets?  
<You can.  No problem.>
And how many times a day should they eat they worms if daily?  
<Just once....  again, perhaps every other day or so.>
Sorry for all the questions but the package for the worms doesn't indicate and I don't want to overfeed them.  Please respond to my email.  I just got my Bettas on Sunday and I am fond of these beautiful fish and I don't want them to die on me!
<Sounds like you're doing good so far....  I would like to recommend that you read this article:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm  and look at the FAQs and other related articles, linked in blue, at the top of that page.  Much info to be had here!>
Thanks!
<You bet.>
Monica
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Mirror on Betta tank 7/20/05
a coworker taped a mirror to her Betta's tank and leaves it there  permanently
<Mmm, not a good idea>
some think this causes stress to the fish ( a fighter fish) (one coworker went as far as to steal the mirror)... coworker has since replaced it.....
is the mirror a bad idea?
<Correct>
signed stressed about stressed fish
<Thank you for expressing your concern, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Prob. with Betta tank 7/20/05
Hey there! I have a small prob with my Betta. I'll give you the run-down. Our Betta used to be in a large (approx 90 litre) tank with 4 white clouds, 4 silver tipped tetras and one Bristlenose catty. My friend then bought me 2 more Bristlenose and a bumblebee goby. When we added the new fish, all was fine and good, we conditioned them to the water temp and they seemed fine. However the next day my Betta came up with pop-eye - i later found that we aren't supposed to add the new fishes water (from the petshop) to our tank. We quarantined the Betta in a small 16 litre (approx) tank and medicated him with some Epsom salts (i found this on your website) and MelaFix every day as per instructions... after about a week he seemed to recover and all evidence of the swelling and pop eye was gone so we eased off and stopped medicating.
<Okay>
But now i don't know what is wrong. I looked at the little tank (where he lives now) and at first glance it seemed like tiny white hairs all over the glass and in the water! but at a closer glance they looked like very tiny worms wriggling around and reproducing in front of my eyes - i should mention at this point that we have been feeding him Tubifex worms from the pet shop as he wouldn't eat the pellets while he was sick.
<Has nothing to do with a/the illness... just worms that can/will grow given conditions...>
I haven't found anything to explain what this is - have we been overfeeding him?
<Possibly, or under-cleaning the container...>
Did he miss one and it reproduced? or - is this a bacterial infection spreading or has our Betta got worms?
<Neither>
He doesn't seem to be affected in any way - is still blowing bubble nests and swimming around - he had a pale patch below the eye that had Popeye /under his mouth and we took a rotting plant out that had cottony bits on it. We change the water once a week... please help.
<Nothing wrong here>
We intend on doing a complete water change and rinsing everything really well and hopefully we can prevent this again - do we need to worm him? Aaahh what should we do? If you need to email me my email XXXX or I'll just check the site?
Thanks, Alison and Grant
<We respond directly. I would "stay the course" here. No worries. Bob Fenner>

Safely elevating bowl temperatures 7/19/05
Good morning.
<So far>
I want to treat a co-workers Betta fish that lives in a half-gallon bowl with no heat. I need to know how to raise the temp gradually from a low of 66 degrees to 80 degrees before starting treatment.
<Actually... going this direction, one can raise it almost immediately... a day or so...>
The fish is old (amazing) but has developed a white and bloody tail fin (small spot in the middle). I have a Betta fish in a heated 5 gallon tank and I cannot get this woman to upgrade.
<Look at the U.S. "choice" for a president... human nature>
Anyways, please help me- the fish is as active as he can be and eats heartily. Fed 3 times a week. Water changed once a week. Don't know parameters but sub-par. Am going to do complete water changes twice a week now and after treatment (also during treatment).
<Ah, good>
I wanted to add aquarium salt, frequent water changes and heat... but how to I safely raise the heat?
<The company Hydor has a really neat low wattage "heating pad" type heater... I would seek one of these out>
I want to resort to medication as a last response.
<We are in agreement here>
Thank you very much.
Sue :)
<Thank you for your concern, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Coffee pot home for a Betta 7/17/05
Hey,
I just got a new Betta today. His name is Maxwell House and I have converted an old coffee pot into a fish bowl for him.
<Heeee! I'll bet he's "good to the last drop.">
It holds a little over 1.5 liters and I am not certain if this is enough space. I know...the silly Canadian girl only knows the metric system.
<A matter of very frequent (twice weekly) water changes, with pre-made water, keeping the water tropical somehow (low perk?), and careful feeding>
I'm sure he will be fine since he has been in a little cup for who knows how long. I was also very upset to see they had the fish stored in front of mirrors! talk about trying to make them (fish) mad.
thank you
Amythest
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Betta article  07/02/05
Just read your article in Pet Age.
<An industry periodical>
Just wanted to tell you great job.
Schuyler Sloane (Mr. sky)
Founder and president of The Northeast Philadelphia Aquarium Society
Visit us on the web @ www.phillyfishclub.com
<Thank you for this... Want to impart my thanks to the editor there... We had a "misunderstanding" or better, lack of understanding re the content of this piece... This series is more "pro" toward advertisers, extant products... But I am adverse <<or rather averse... >> to promoting poor practices, products and techniques that are harmful or just non-beneficial to our aquatic charges. In this case, the little death traps which are unfiltered, unheated "bowls" for Bettas mainly. To her credit and perseverance, the article was not tossed... or much modified. Bob Fenner>

Chilly Betta and stray voltage 07/01/05
        Does anyone no of any heater that can be used in a .75-1 gallon, (a little under a gallon) desktop tank.
<Yes. Hydor Products.>
I bought this one which was rated for 2-5 gallon tanks. The box stated the heater would only raise the temp.
2-5 degrees but it raised by beta's bowl/vase to about 90 degrees.
<You need a small wattage unit that is thermostatic, likely external...>
I ordered a small desktop aquarium with a filter which measures 6x6x8". I want to be able to keep him a little warm since the building operator knows how to crank the air conditioning. Thank goodness for us but not for Delta, (my work beta buddy). Know of any products?
<Look for Hydor, dealers on the Net>
Like I said the only one I've found is the flat one which made the water way too hot.. Any other suggestions would be appreciated as well.
P.S. A bigger aquarium is also out of the question. My boss is being nice as it is with what I have.
        While I'm here, one more question, if it's all right..... Is there any way to check for stray voltage. I think one of the devices in my 54 gallon saltwater might be giving off juice. Thank You as always. Enjoy the
fourth and have a safe holiday.
                                -Heather
<There are a few methods... there are stray potential meters... Might be better here to have an actual electrician out to check rather than buy the gear yourself... and to seek out, install a grounding device. Bob Fenner>

Re: Chilly Betta <with two "t's">
Bob,
        The Hydor product is the one which I used last time which made the bowl way too hot... (90+degrees), it was the flat one which is rated for small bowls. The heater is only rated for 2 gallons and up. Anything i can do for a bowl 1 gallon or less? Maybe position the heater somewhere else, (you said something about externally)
<Yes... the outside... should provide sufficient thermal insulation to make this unit useful here>
or use a 6" heater rated for 10 Ga. and above?
<No... too many watts>
I'm sure there are many others out there like me with cold Bettas in smaller tanks, so is there anything we can do? Also about the stray voltage.. I can't really afford to hire an electrician so are there any ways to find stray voltage in the water otherwise?
<Yes... but am hesitant to suggest your not hiring a professional... depending on 1) whether there is actually an electrical leak, or 2) the source thereof, there may be a real potential hazard here. At the very least I suggest you wire in or between a GFI circuit. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gfcimarines.htm>
Or, should I just turn one piece of equipment off at a time for a month or so,  to see if my fish get better? Once again Thanks for you time. Hope you all had a nice holiday.
                                        -Heather
<... do you have a low voltage meter? A neighbor who has one, an understanding of electricity? Bob Fenner>

New Tank with New Betta
Dear Crew: I recently (June 6, 2005) came into possession of a Betta fish (he was a centerpiece at my sister-in-law's wedding -- don't get me started -- and I rescued him at the end of the night when he was left over).  A 7 1/2 hour car ride later (during which he sloshed all the way -- my poor guy) and he is now with my husband and me. He came in a small bowl, and before that from a pet shop.  I did a lot of research online and *thought* I was doing everything right... I bought an Eclipse 3 gallon aquarium (as you probably know, comes with unobtrusive mechanical and biological filter) set it up using spring water and let it run for 24 hours, as suggested in directions. Then I measured the pH and temp, got them so they were similar (7.0 from what I recall and approx. 82 degrees) and then introduced my fish. Unfortunately, I had read nowhere (until the other day) about ammonia and nitrites/nitrates. So I bought a kit yesterday (June 20, 2005) and tested everything ... my ammonia levels are at around 3!  No nitrites or nitrates. My fish is already in the tank, has been for two weeks, and he has already endured a lot of trauma (second day we got him home he developed body fungus, which I treated with Maracyn for one week. It disappeared by the next day. He also looks like he has tail rot, but I cannot tell if it has been halted and/or is in recovery stages yet.) I have occasionally (twice) added aquarium salt to the water, as I read it is good as a general tonic. There are no other living/dead things in the tank and I do not believe we overfeed (we give a sprinkling of this really fine Betta food; maybe 8 miniscule granules -- not the larger pellets that I have seen -- a day. He eats it all in about 10 seconds.)
I already searched your site and found all sorts of advice, but much of it is conflicting... in some cases Stress Zyme is recommended, in other cases Bio Spira, also Ammo-lock, but in some cases these are not recommended. I want to make sure I do what's appropriate, and with as little trauma to my fish as possible!  Should I do a water change?
< With these high ammonia levels I would recommend a 30% water change while removing any waste that has accumulated on the bottom of the tank.>
I haven't yet; I was told by the pet shop to do one after a month.  If so, how much?
< See above.>
How will I ensure that the ammonia in the new water is low? (Obviously wasn't the first time!)
< Ammonia comes from the fish waste and not from the water.>
Shouldn't the bio filter have taken care of this ammonia by now?
< The bio-wheel needs to grow bacteria that live on the wheel. It will be fully seeded after a month, sooner if you use Bio-Spira.>
I am especially concerned because of the high alkaline content of the pH, which I read can worsen the effect of the ammonia(?)
< Ammonia is more toxic at alkaline pH levels.>
He (his name is Giles) alternately patrols and rests, but now from what I've read I am super paranoid and am convinced his patrolling/resting is actually "flashing" and "lethargy" due to ammonia toxicity. Please help Giles as soon as you can, and thank you!!!   Julie
< Go to Marineland.com and go to Dr. Tim's library. Check out the article called " The First 30 Days". This should give you some info on cycling your tank.-Chuck>

Betta bowl search
We are looking to purchase about 30 Betta fish for fish bowls on a table for a party.  Do you have any idea where I can purchase these wholesale.
Please let me know.  Thanks
Tammy
<Mmm, I'd try making a deal with a local fish store, perhaps look at the "five and dimes" in your area, and floral shops (use small glass bowls for arrangements at times). The folks in the trade deal in much larger quantities. Bob Fenner>

Distilled Water 6.12.05
Robert, I have always used distilled water for Betta tank when I change the water. My fish is two+ years old and seems happy. I am giving a new fish to a friend and the fish store says to use spring water. Why should I do this if I know the distilled water has kept MY fish happy for two years? I am interested in your opinion. Also...when I do my community aquariums I use tap water and Stress-Coat" or similar water conditioner, and I love that stuff but never have used it for the Betta. Why start now?? Thank you for your help,
Jeanie from MA ...  Siamese fighting fish lover
<Hi Jeanie, you've got Gage today, but I am a big fan of water so I think I can help.  First for your Betta, if it is working don't change it, if I say use conditioned tap water and you try it and your fish dies for some reason you will blame me and we can't have that, I'd prefer to stay friends.  For all my freshwater fish I have always used tap water and water conditioner, I like Prime because it is really concentrated and seems to work for me.  I am sure others work well too but if I change on someone else's suggestion and something happens to my fish, well you know.  What's the difference? Distilled water is null and void of any minerals, ions, salts, all kinds of science type stuff that your fish need.  The dissolved solids in your water also buffer your water so that you do not experience large PH swings.  On a large scale distilled water is too expensive for aquarium use, most folks who mix up their own water will go with reverse osmosis and or deionized water.  Spring water. . . I guess it's makeup would have to depend on the spring that it came from, I have not really looked into it.  So, if your tap water is not bad, dechlorinate it and use it.  If you are just changing a small Betta container, feel free to use whichever water makes you and your fish happy (I still might mix a little tap water in with the distilled water to buffer it).  Feel free to search our site for a whole lot more detail on the different water options.  And for me, I will drink water from Abita Springs, LA because I named my dog "Abita Turbo Dog" after the beer.  Hope this helps, Gage>

A Betta, Tetra, and Tank Size Question
Hey, I'm actually a first-time Betta owner so I bought the entire half-gallon Betta kit that they sold in the store to go with my new Betta.  However, the first night I brought him home, he seemed really listless and unwilling to eat so I brought him back to the pet store the next day.  The guy in the pet store suggested getting him some tetra friends so he recommended that I purchase 2 orange tetras to accompany him.
<In a half gallon system? Is it heated, filtered?...>
They seemed to get along fine but lately the tetra has been "stalking" the two tetras and nipping them whenever he gets close to them.  I'm wondering if he's trying to eat them or if he's just being friendly or what's going on.
<Among other things, increased stress due to crowding...>
  Right now, I have separated the two fish, and I'm wondering if it would be better to just buy a completely separate bowl for my Betta or to purchase a few more tetra for my tank so the Betta is more intimidated.
<... not unless you get a much larger system>
My only concern with the latter decision is that the half gallon tank will not be able to hold that many fish.
<Bingo!>
I'm really concerned about my fish so if you could reply ASAP, that would be wonderful.  Thank you very much in advance and I look very forward to your response!
Fendy
<Please read on WWM re Freshwater systems, stocking... Betta Compatibility... Bob Fenner>

The Curse of the Betta Bowl
Hi WWM!
<Hey, Mike G with you tonight.>
I'm hoping you may be able to provide some insight into a sort of strange problem we've been having.
<That's what we're here for!>
My mom has wanted to keep a Betta fish in the bathroom ever since she remodeled it with a watery fishy feel. Her attempts have  not been successful. The first Betta definitely died from too much water conditioner being used (we had some unfortunate measurement errors).
<Hmm... Many conditioners, or dare I say, most conditioners, cannot be overdosed with fatal results. I doubt that a miscalculation in dosage would do this guy in. I think this all has something to do with the environment: Bettas are hardy fish, and so many Bettas do not die randomly. I bet there is an underlying cause to all of their demises.>
Anyway, that poor guy's death is explained. Soon after she tried with number two.
Number  two lived a whole day and then died as well. The bowl he was living in contained  natural sea glass and so it was thought that maybe that was somehow contaminating the water and it was removed from the bowl and replaced with marbles.
<Maybe a contaminant, maybe not. Again, I don't think it would be a large problem.>
Betta number three only lived a few more days then number two. This was  several years ago and the bowl has been sitting empty on the shelf since then,  as mom felt jinxed and was afraid to be  the cause of another poor Betta's  death. I'm now in my third year of college and living in the dorms. This year,  about a month and a half ago my RA had a floor program where we got Bettas for  free. My Betta, named Love, is doing well in a small tank in my room now at home  since school got out about two weeks ago. He is very active.
My suitemate had no  where to bring her Betta and she gave him to me so my mom could give another  shot at the Betta in the bathroom bowl. This Betta was named Sebastian, and both  Love and Sebastian were treated exactly the same as far as feeding and water  changes. Sebastian lived for only two weeks in the bathroom. He was found  floating this morning when I went to feed him.
<Definitely, most absolutely an underlying cause of all of the fishes' deaths. Maybe it's the bathroom.>
He seemed to spend a lot of time  at the bottom of the bowl, and was often found inside an Apple Snail shell that  was in his bowl. My thought is that his sluggishness was a sign of disease, but  I was wondering is maybe you had any other thoughts.
<Something killed all of the Bettas, and something killed them swiftly. They were all in the same bowl, in the same room, under the same conditions, and died within a similar timeframe.. But what did it?>
A few suggestions we have  considered is that the bowl is kept very high on a shelf in the room, only a few  inches from the ceiling,
<Doesn't sound problematic.>
and that showers are taken in the room with the door  closed and the bowl is covered in condensation. Could the marbles be the  problem?
<I seriously doubt it. I think you just answered your question: the showers. I'll bet the temperature fluctuates crazily (for lack of a better word), and that stresses your fish out. I think everything about taking a shower with a fish in the room can cause much stress in many areas. Try a Betta in the same bowl, with the same food and etc., but in a different room with stable conditions. (like your dorm) I'll bet he lives. Best of luck, Mike G>
Please let me know if you have any
thoughts or if you just think we  have bad luck! Thanks!
Christine

Betta System
I recently purchased a Betta and have him in a large vase-bowl. However, I want him to be happier, so I have a five-gallon [I think] tank that only has a aerator in it. Does he need a filter? Or is the aerator enough? Or should I buy a pump?
I don't know.
I just filled the big tank, and am going to wait about a week before I put him in, and I put this stuff for Betta health...no pun intended, called Aquahealth I think. what should I do?
>> I think that you are on the right track. But, a filter will help. I would suggest that you buy a sponge filter, which your air pump will run easily, and it has a gentle flow that Bettas like very much. Good Luck, Oliver

My Betta Vase
Hi -
I've recently acquired a male Betta and installed him in a large vase with a Styrofoam cover which has a hole in the center for live greenery. My question is, can I fill the vase with water up to the Styrofoam cover or should I leave some breathing room for 'Spike'?
<<He needs to be able to breathe off the surface. You should have at least an inch of space between the surface of the water and the cover.
For Bettas you do not really need to cover the tank/bowl they rarely jump, and your fish will likely do better with the bowl open to allow for better air exchange.
Oliver >>

Prom Night Betta
Hi, I'm new to the Betta thing, and very confused! I got my Betta from my prom. I know lame but hey, I saw it and I wanted it. It's in a small, but medium bowl, about a gal. *I'm guessing here* He's a very lovely pink and red color. I named him Fishy. Fishy isn't doing to well. I have small stones on the bottom of the bowl and feed him Betta pellets *four pellets a day*. Fishy doesn't eat and I'm worried. I don't have anything. I changed the water yesterday (5/21)
I got him 5/19. It was tap water warmed to room temp. Other then that I'm not sure what to do. I'm worried, and I don't want him to die. :-( I'm very fond of Fishy. Can you recommend a good site that would help me. What should I do about Fishy not eating?
Thanks,
Ash
<OK. You wanted him, you got him, now it's time for a trip to the pet store to spend a little money. If nothing else you need dechlorinator for his water. These days there are long lasting chemicals in the water that will kill if not removed. I also strongly suggest upgrading his housing. Your Betta will not live a long life in an small, cold bowl. A 5 gallon tank with a glass lid, heater, sponge filter and air pump will create a Betta Paradise. Add a little fluorescent desk lamp for your viewing enjoyment. Stay away from incandescent hoods for a small tank. They heat the water too much. Look for a starter kit. You can sometimes get everything you need in one package at a discount. If kept in the bowl you will need to replace 50% of his water two to three times a week. The set up I suggested will "cycle" in a month or so and water changes could be reduced. Read here on cycling. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm.  It will explain the ammonia build up you will be fighting if he is kept in an unfiltered system. For right now get him in dechlorinated water and stop feeding for a day or two. Don>

Prom Night Betta pt 2
Me again. I got Fishy a new tank, and gravel, and a live plant that he loves. He's in a tank with a light and filter, got a dechlorinator, gravel. It came in a starter kit. I'm excited. Another question. Another fish came with my live plant that we had no clue about until we got home, it looks like a catfish, but much smaller. It's ugly. Would he be okay with my Betta? Thanks.
<That would depend on the species of catfish. Most, such as Corys, make great tankmates. There are others that get huge and will eat anything that will fit in their mouths. You'll need to do a little research. Make sure he gets his share of the food. You may need to feed him a sinking food after lights out. Glad to hear up upgraded him, thank you. You did not mention a heater. If one was not included, that's your next purchase. And please read the link in my last answer. This new tank will need to cycle before it is fish safe. Bio filtration is the single most important thing you must learn to keep your fish alive and thriving. You should get tests for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Then do water changes to correct spikes. No chemicals, except dechlorinator. Good luck with him. Don> 

Frosty Betta Could be Cookin' Betta!
Hey!
<<Hey!>>
I read up a lot on your site before getting myself a Betta for my office, and your advice has been awesome help so far. I do have a question though, that you might be able to answer.
<<A'ight.>>
I know that Bettas prefer moderately warmer water (around 75-80 degrees F).
<<Well, that's moderate if you're also considering the pupfish.>>
The gorgeous Betta I just purchased seems very happy and healthy at my home (which is pretty warm), but I plan on taking him with me to work sometime soon to keep me company in my cube, and they keep the place a little on the chilly side. I have him in a glass container that's roughly about a quart in size. I know this might sound like a horrible idea, but I was considering getting one of those small mug warmers to rest the bowl on to keep it warmer than the roughly 65 degrees it is in my office.
<<OH yeah, it'll keep it warmer alright!>>
I figure a little 18 watt warmer designed to heat only about 12 fl. oz. and not a whole quart wouldn't be too much to fry the poor guy, but I would plan on testing it first.
<<Is this thing thermostatically controlled? I would think that if you simply oversize the volume being heated it would just work overtime. I also think that it *could* indeed heat up a quart of liquid to be hot enough for us Americans to enjoy drinking it.. which should be about hot enough to poach an egg perfectly.>>
They even make warmers that plug into USB ports, which is even more ideal for an office!
<<Dang! If only I were addicted to coffee!>>
I want to be sure that this is a good idea at all before I go out and buy one, though. What are your thoughts? Shawn
<<I think that because it's designed to keep things HOT, not warm, it could very well cook your fish. I also think that because it probably cannot be thermostatically controlled your endeavor would be hit or miss. I would go with something more like a heating pad (think reptile warmer, maybe?), even a simple light bulb over the "tank" (tankette?). What about the weekends? I also think that any manufacturer who taps this tiny system market might be smart. How many tiny Betta setups do you see with NO heat regulation whatsoever? ALL of them, my friend. I'm wondering if there's something used for culturing yeast that would be applicable. I culture my sourdough in my oven with the light on - stays a pretty even 80F unless it's really warm in the house. Honestly, a heating pad might be better applied here, continue searching after you've experimented with the mug heater. Marina>> 

Betta Problems, improper setting, treatment
Hi,
I have searched your info on Bettas and I can't seem to find the answer. My Betta is about 10 months old. He is in a glass bowl/vase.
<Unless you are changing pretty much all the water here... every week at the longest, and keeping your house very warm, and carefully feeding... this is not a suitable home for this fish>
He usually eats really good, twice a day. I change his water completely about every 2-3 weeks (cause when I change the water he won't eat for a week).
<Needs to be done twice a week...>
When I changed the water the other day (it was overdue to be changed), I put him in another bowl and when I went to net him he jumped out of the net but back into bowl, I re-netted him and put him into his bowl. Ever since then he has been lying on his side and tries to swim with his front fins but doesn't get anywhere. I use water conditioner and stress coat as I always do. I thought he was dead so I tapped the glass and he hid for 2 days and today is at the top floating on his side again. I have been doing everything the same for the last 10 months. What's wrong with him? He hasn't eaten in about a week (this whole thing happened 3 days ago). Help!
Kristin
<Please help yourself. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

A Betta Life
Hi there,
<Hello>
We recently purchased our daughter a Betta as well as a 1/2 gallon 'starter kit' from the pet store.  The employees at the store assured us that a heater would not be needed for such a small tank size, but I have my doubts.
<You should... this is a tropical fish...>
  I've been reading as much as I can about Bettas in the last week (I'm quickly becoming obsessed with 'Fishy') and I know that his water is nowhere near the recommended 80 degrees.  He is being fed a mix of flake, pellet and freeze dried bloodworms.  His appetite is fine, he loves to play with me and he's quite active.  I'm sure his health is fine right now, although I'm worried about his long-term prospects in cooler water.  I've been doing 50% water changes twice weekly with tap water that has been treated with the water conditioner that came in the starter kit and has been sitting for 48 hours before the change.
What I would like to know is, is there a heater that is appropriate for his tank size?
<Mmm, yes, but hard to find... only need a dozen or two watts...>
I would love to move him to a larger tank but currently that's not a financial possibility.  Also, are there any other recommendations that you have for me?  I want Fishy to have a long and healthy life!
Thanks so much,
Anna
<There are other means of heating the water... small heat pads, outside lighting... Need some experimentation. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
Bob Fenner>

Film on Water (a pet fish in the sky)
Hi again...once again, I need to thank you over and over for your quick responses and wonderful website. It's just great to know that you can get help/advice when you need it from the best! My cycled 3 gallon Eclipse tank w/BioWheel has some sort of problem that I just can't seem to fix. The tank houses 1 male Betta and several plants: Java ferns, 1 Red Ludwigia, & 2 tufts of some long grass. The gravel is not the little stuff but bigger natural colored pebbles. My water readings are Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: Between 5.0 and 10, PH is: Between 7.0 and 7.2. 
Having plants, I leave the light on 7-10 hours a day. The Betta is in excellent health, eats, blows bubble nests regularly every day, has no torn or frayed fins. 
The problem is, every 3 days I develop a film (like floating patches) on the top of the tank. If I view the top of the water with a flashlight they look worse. I do a 10-20 percent water change each week just to get rid of this stuff. Also 1 time per week I vacuum a selected section of the tank and I also have washed my carbon cartridge filter (but not at the same time) because it seems to get a lot of plant debris, etc., which does seem to help more than the water change. I have tried to wick this away with paper towels...it seems to just break up and float around. 
Can someone tell me what this is and if there is a better way to get rid of it? Could my plants be causing any of this film? I am afraid that it could harm my Betta eventually. I am also concerned about the continual water changes and filter washing affecting my cycled tank eventually, so far it has not but if this keeps up I am afraid that it will. Thank you again, Sue
<Hi Sue. The film is most likely from the Betta's food. It will not cause a problem. In fact if it's causing you to do an extra water change once a week then I would call it a good thing. As long as you do not clean the bio wheel you should not have a problem. The main concern would be a thick layer preventing gas exchange at the surface. Doesn't sound like you're close to that. It dose sound like you have a happy Betta there. Good job. Don>

Smelly fish tank... need to study re Bettas, WWM
I recently bought two Bettas a week ago and bought one of those double Betta tanks. I guess I am not sure as I thought I was with how to care for them. The salesperson I talked to said that he really like the double Betta tanks that have a divider shield, but I started to notice that one of them just seemed to me that he didn't have enough room so I went and bought that same size tank and separated them like after a day. The size of the tank is like a 1/2 gallon tank. (I know not very big, but I don't have anywhere to put a big tank. Plus I have two cats and my mom did not really want me to get the fish unless it was out of the cats' sight). The salesperson at the store also told me that I could use spring water and that would be okay. I have heard of people using spring water with their Bettas. Is it okay that I use spring water? 
<This is not a "type" of water, but a brand name... depends on what the make-up of the water is itself... Please read on WWM re Betta Set-ups/Systems...>
My main concern is the smell of one of the tanks. The one that I had them both in the first day I bought them is the one that really has a horrific smell to it. I did do a water change 3 days after I had separated them and it still had a smell to it. Any suggestions? Also, can you please give me some pointers too with how to care for them? Thank-you. 
Crystal
<Please read on WWM re Bettas en toto. Bob Fenner>