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| FAQs on
Betta Systems: Water Quality Related Articles:
Betta Systems,
Improved (Better?)
Products for Bettas!
Anabantoids/Gouramis &
Relatives,
Betta splendens/Siamese Fighting Fish, Betta
Diseases,
Improved (Better?) Products
for Bettas!,
Related FAQs: Betta Systems 1,
Betta Systems 2,
Betta Systems 3,
Betta Systems 4,
Betta Systems 5,
Betta Systems 6, & Betta System:
Bowls/Tanks,
Heating, Lighting,
Filtration, & (See also:
Ammonia,
Nitrite,
Nitrate,
Nitrogen Cycling),
Maintenance, & Bettas in General,
Betta ID/Varieties,
Betta Behavior,
Betta Compatibility,
Betta Selection,
Betta Feedings, Betta Reproduction,
Betta Disease,
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Bettas are more than fine with most all tap/source
waters. Better than bottled. Do either treat (and store for a week ahead
of use) new water or treat with a dechloraminator. No salt added please.
Plants can do a great deal of good though... aid/assure in cycling. No
ammonia or nitrite, less than 20 ppm of nitrate.
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GH/KH concern with new Betta
– 10/28/07
Hello :),
I have a 6 gallon tank in my office with a heater (80 degree water), an internal
filter stuffed with filter floss (for low current), a few Java Ferns, an
Anubias, and some Val.s.
<Nice>
I mixed 3/4 R/O water with 1/4 Spring water, and I have had a PH level of 7.2
for a week now. (Without the mixture of water, the PH of my tap water was pretty
high at above 8.
<Wow. Liquid rock>
Even the Spring water with the lowest PH reading I found, 7.0, jumped to over 8
in my filtered tank.)
My GH and KH readings are at about 53.7ppm (if I'm understanding the API test
kit.)
Some of the articles on the internet seem to indicate that these GH/KH levels
are fine, and others would seem to suggest a raising of the GH.
<Mmmm>
I understand that there are products like Kent R/O right and GH Botanica plus
from your website. But I know that Bettas like somewhat soft water, and I'd
rather not affect my PH if I don't have to, so I'm wondering if I can leave this
alone, or if that would be harmful to my new friend over time?
Thank you,
Patricia
P.S. I will be cycling with Bio-Spira, and Thanks for keeping up such a great
website!
<Thank you... and I think you are fine here with the calcium and general
hardness... for the plants, Betta... I would not change your stated protocol for
mixing water. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: GH/KH concern with new
Betta – 10/30/2007
Hello,
Thank you so much for your quick response :). It's a scary moment, when you
think after weeks of research, you may have actually made things worse for your
fish! Thank you for sharing so much of your time with those of us who need it :)
Thanks again :),
Patricia
<Am very pleased to help you, others to improve their experience, the lives to
the life in their care. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Torgo the Betta update, sys., reading 3-4-09
Hello crew! <Elspeth>
This weekend I managed to scrape together sufficient funds
to buy Torgo a 6 US Gallon tank with a nice BioWheel filter (with adjustable
flow so it's nice and gentle) and a heater. I
have it cycling and it is staying around 77 degrees Fahrenheit. In the meantime,
I am continuing to change 25% of Torgo's water with a turkey baster every day
and am giving him a ~100% water change once a week-- all with unfiltered,
treated (dechlorinated) water. One question:
There are so many products out there that say they will
harden my water (it is oh, so soft at my house).
<Really? How soft is soft? Not water that is "run" through
a residential water softener I hope/trust... if so, I'd "go outside", use the
tap from a spigot, warm up and use it instead>
What is your favorite product/method to add some minerals to your water?
<Just exposure to natural carbonate material...>
Thanks for all your help and patience!
-Elspeth <Read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwhardnessfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Torgo the Betta update - 03/06/09
Oh my gosh! I got a reply from Bob, himself! Hello again crew! <Hi!> I
think you'll be happy to know that don't treat our water and the hardness is the
same from the tap as it is from the hose: 4dKH and 17.9ppm I used the API
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH/GH test. From what I've read around, Bettas like
"moderate hardness" and I don't think that my water qualifies. <Bettas will
adapt to a wide range of conditions, and in the wild, will be living in fairly
soft water, as is common for most (though certainly not all) Southeast Asian
fish. However, it is true to say that soft water aquaria can be less difficult
to maintain than hard water aquaria, so by default, it's usually best to aim for
neutral, moderately hard water conditions if you have the option. This won't
harm soft water fish at all, but will resist pH changes much better than soft
water will.> Soft water certainly gives a lovely lather in the shower, but
I'm not so sure Torgo will like it. <It's unlikely to be an issue provided
you can ensure pH stays stable; that's usually the problem with soft water
aquaria.> On the FAQs I read that adding baking soda may be useful. How much
per gallon would you recommend? <I wouldn't recommend adding just baking soda
by itself. Instead, I'd use some Rift Valley salt mix, which you can either buy
ready made or mix yourself very inexpensively. A classic Rift Valley mix, per 5
gallons (20 litres) is as follows: 1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium
bicarbonate) 1 tablespoon Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) 1 teaspoon marine
salt mix (sodium chloride + trace elements) Since you're not keeping a hard
water fish as such, I'd actually start by using one-quarter the amount, stir
well, test the water, and see what your water chemistry test kits say. It should
be adequate, but if not, perhaps use one-half the amount.> I also read that
someone was adding a chunk o' coral to his freshwater tank-- which was ok by
Neale-- since his water needed to be hard and alkaline. <Crushed coral, as
opposed to a dead coral, can be used to buffer the water, but only within
certain limits. Firstly, water has to be flowing past the crushed coral, so you
have to put the coral inside the filter, often an undergravel or canister
filter. Secondly, it's difficult to predict how quickly and how effectively
crushed coral will work, which is why it's usually used in large amounts (so
it's quick) and in systems where a high pH/hardness is required (so there's no
danger of "overdosing"). A Malawi cichlid aquarium is the classic situation.
Thirdly, crushed coral has to be regularly cleaned or replaced, else it loses
its efficacy. In short, in a small Betta tank, sticking a head of coral in the
aquarium is not going to create precise, manageable conditions of the sort
you're after. I'd also add that the trade in dead corals is generally considered
unsustainable and is illegal in some areas, e.g., Europe, so unless you have
access to dead corals from (unsuccessful!) marine fishkeepers, I can't in all
honesty recommend anyone use them. Faux corals are just as good looking, don't
affect water chemistry, and are not expensive.> Would this be a possible
solution, or is it likely to make the water too hard for a Betta? <Wouldn't
use coral in this system.> (and how would it go for tetras? My sister has a
tank of cute little neon and cardinal tetras over at her place, so I'm curious.)
I guess it would depend on the size of the coral chunk, eh? <Repeat after me:
corals do not belong in a freshwater aquarium. If you want corals, either get
faux ones, or set up a marine aquarium and keep live ones! There's really no
ethically or practically acceptable use for dead coral skeletons in freshwater
tanks.> Ultimately, I think I should look into having a soft water tank after
Torgo goes to that big fish tank (or rice field) in the sky, in a few years
(since Bettas have fairly short lifespans). If I've got soft water, I may as
well use it to my advantage, right? (your Soft Water Aquarium page gave me some
food for thought.) <This is consistently my advice: Learn your water
conditions, and choose fish that enjoy them. In soft water areas your challenge
is pH stability, so that invariably means using as big a tank as you can afford,
and to tend towards understocking it to prevent excessive amounts of decay.>
Thank you for your patience and advice! Sincerely, -Elspeth <Cheers,
Neale.>
Betta Behaviour, Water Quality - 05/17/2006
Hi!
I don't think this has been discussed anywhere else, but if it has, I'm sorry.
<No worries.>
I'm having a problem with my new male Betta. I got him about two weeks ago from
a very reputable shop and put him in a set-up identical to the one my other
Betta is in (I've had him for a good six months and he's always been a picture
of health). For the first few days, he seemed to be completely fine: He was
active, his fins looked great and he blew a very large nest. He swam around
calmly, exploring his situation. Very occasionally, his body would give a little
twitch (very slight), but I put that down to the stress of moving into a new
home. He was also not eating as much as my other guy, but given that my blue boy
eats more than my roommate's male too (also in the same set-up, also very
healthy), I didn't consider that an issue. The about three days ago, my
roommate got himself a female. To cut a long story short, she was accidentally
placed where my new guy could see her, and he was flaring at her for a good five
minutes before we noticed and moved her. This was in the evening before he had
been fed. When I did feed him about an hour later (freeze dried blood worms), he
seemed kind of lethargic and just nipped at a worm before spitting it out again
and ignoring it. When he still hadn't eaten five minutes later, I fished the
food out and left him for the night. The next morning, he was like a different
fish. Most of the time he spends resting on or near the bottom, but every so
often he will dart around the tank like a maniac, body twitching violently with
every move. Sometimes it has got so bad that he will flip himself out of the
water completely.
<Good description. Thanks for being so clear.>
He has lost interest in his food completely, but will occasionally make loud
chewing sounds with his jaw. His fins have become lifeless and droopy, but he is
still blowing nests. On the first day, I thought something might have somehow
gotten into the water (God knows how), so I did a 100% change, rinsing out
thoroughly with bottled water. It doesn't seem to have made any difference. I'm
extremely worried about him, but I'm a very inexperienced fish-owner and I'm
terribly worried about putting anything in without expert advice. Please help?
<What you are seeing is more than likely a reaction to a toxin in the
water. This may be ammonia or nitrite from the nitrogen cycle, chlorine from
the tapwater, or some other toxin that somehow got introduced to the system. Of
course, it is possible that the animal brought home an illness, but the first
most likely problem is just simple water quality. Please test your water for
ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate; if ammonia or nitrite is above ZERO or nitrate
above 20ppm, you'll need to do water changes to correct these. Please be sure
to use a chlorine/chloramine neutralizer when you change water. Also make sure
that the temperature and pH of the new water are matched to the temp and pH of
the water in the tank. Take a look at WetWebMedia, articles on cycling,
maintenance, and water quality, to learn more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmaintindex.htm
.>
Thanks, -Annika
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
The right kind of water?
10/31/06
<<Hello. Tom here.>>
I am trying to find out what kind of water to use when I clean my Betta fish's, "Sera", bowl. The first time (when we purchased our Betta, "Sera") we used
bottled water, but we noticed the same day that her bowl was getting cloudy and
it was smelling.
<<The cloudiness and odor were caused by bacteria. This is more likely to occur
quickly if the new water were simply added to the water that the Betta was
already in. Perhaps a little more food than should be provided and you’ve got a
bacteria bloom, i.e. cloudy, smelly water. As for the “right” type of water, we
strongly recommend that you acclimate your pet to whatever water you get from
the tap. This should be treated with a dechlorinator if your water is contains
chlorine/chloramine. Bottled/distilled water lacks a number of the trace
elements found in tap water that fish need for good health which is why we don’t
recommend its use for water changes/general aquarium use.>>
She seems to be fine. We feed her Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sundays. She
seems happy although we are concerned about her bowl. She eats fine. Our
daughters ages 12, 2, and 1 love her, our 2 year old named her Sera. I would not
want her to get sick or die. Please help?
<<Please consider a filter and a heater for your pet if you don’t already have
them. If your bowl isn’t large enough to accommodate these, you might consider a
small 5- or 10-gallon tank for Sera. Keeping a Betta in a small bowl may seem
like fanciful fun but these aren’t the best for the fish and really make it
harder on the keeper where water conditions and general cleanliness are
concerned. Enjoy your new “friend”. Tom>>
New Betta With Ammonia Problems 1/18/06
Dear Sirs: I did search for this, and found something quite close, but it
didn't address my exact concern, so please bear with me. My Concerns: the tail
"threads"
the water getting cloudy so quickly. Here are the facts: New Male Betta, just
purchased 50 hours ago.
First 24 hours were spent in smaller bowl, with tap water & drops of tap water
conditioner. Now in a round 1 gallon plastic tank, tap water conditioner drops,
fake plant (I would describe the feel of the fake plant as perhaps feeling soft
pine needles), plastic beads, little divers helmet. All came with tank)
Just put him in this last night. Mid-day today. water seems to be slightly
cloudy. (not heavily, but perhaps as if I'd put a teaspoon of skim milk
into the bowl) I am in Australia, very hot, so air-conditioner has been on quite
a bit during day, off at night.
I have taken a cooked small prawn, held it a bit above or just on the water a
couple times today and he'd do a little jump and take a very small bite
out of it. I did notice when my husband was getting the new bowl ready, he had
both his (cleaned) hands in the water trying to adjust the beads and such.
Water did set for about 2-3 hours after being treated before putting fish in. He
is acting just fine, but for a lack of a better way to say it. looks like
he's starting to lose "threads" of his tail. Just today. Not getting quite as
excited about seeing himself in the mirror as he used
to. I tried to keep this as concise for you as possible. Thank you in advance.
Juli
< As you new little Betta excretes waste it and uneaten food quickly turns to
ammonia which is toxic to fish. This is the cloudy water you are
experiencing. It "burns" the fish's gills and fins. This may explain the
threads you are seeing. Do a 50% water change to dilute the ammonia. Feed only
once a day and only enough food so that all of it is gone in two minutes once
each day. Remove any uneaten food after two minutes. This will reduce the
ammonia but not eliminate it. You can continue to dilute it with daily water
changes. You can add Bio-Spira from Marineland that will put the bacteria in the
tank and begin to start to break the ammonia down. The will transform the
ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates. The nitrates are less toxic but still
need to be removed with water changes. There are many chemical resins that will
remove ammonia. You might want to look into these and make a little "tea bag"
filled with these resins top control the ammonia until you can get around to
doing a water change. An ammonia test kit will let you know when the resin needs
to be replaced and when a water change is needed. Over time you may get the
bacteria to developed naturally. Go to Marineland.com and check out Dr Tim's
Library. Go to the article titled "The First Thirty Days" for a better
understanding about what is happening in your bowl.-Chuck>
Distilled Water 6.12.05
Robert, I have always used distilled water for Betta tank when I change the
water. My fish is two+ years old and seems happy. I am giving a new fish to
a friend and the fish store says to use spring water. Why should I do this
if I know the distilled water has kept MY fish happy for two years? I am
interested in your opinion. Also...when I do my community aquariums I use tap
water and Stress-Coat" or
similar water conditioner, and I love that stuff but never have used it for
the Betta. Why start now?? Thank you for your help,
Jeanie from MA ... Siamese fighting fish lover
<Hi Jeanie, you've got Gage today, but I am a big fan of water so I think I can
help. First for your Betta, if it is working don't change it, if I say use
conditioned tap water and you try it and your fish dies for some reason you will
blame me and we can't have that, I'd prefer to stay friends. For all my
freshwater fish I have always used tap water and water conditioner, I like Prime
because it is really concentrated and seems to work for me. I am sure others
work well too but if I change on someone else's suggestion and something happens
to my fish, well you know. What's the difference? Distilled water is null and
void of any minerals, ions, salts, all kinds of science type stuff that your
fish need. The dissolved solids in your water also buffer your water so that
you do not experience large PH swings. On a large scale distilled water is too
expensive for aquarium use, most folks who mix up their own water will go with
reverse osmosis and or deionized water. Spring water. . . I guess it's makeup
would have to depend on the spring that it came from, I have not really looked
into it. So, if your tap water is not bad, dechlorinate it and use it. If you
are just changing a small Betta container, feel free to use whichever water
makes you and your fish happy (I still might mix a little tap water in with the
distilled water to buffer it). Feel free to search our site for a whole lot
more detail on the different water options. And for me, I will drink water from
Abita Springs, LA because I named my dog "Abita Turbo Dog" after the beer. Hope
this helps, Gage>
Betta bowls
I recently bought a Betta. While surfing your site to find the answers to
some questions about overeating, I saw some comments about Betta lily bowls.
<I assume you mean the vase-type containers, with a plant (peace lily, usually)
growing out?>
Are they really bad for the fish?
<Well, not directly.... But you'll need to provide as large a volume of water
for the fish as you can, and be sure to change a little bit of water out for new
dechlorinated water every few days.>
If so why, and is there any way I can safely keep my lily and my Betta together?
<Use only dechlorinated water for your Betta (a trip to the fish store will show
you a wide array of things you can choose from - get something that treats
tapwater for chlorine and chloramine), make sure when you do water changes to
exactly match the water temperature, so as not to shock your fellah, change a
third or so of the water every few days, and provide the largest possible
container to keep him in. I've seen some nicely done things like this that had
more than a gallon of water volume for the fish. If done properly, it could be
a nice fishy home for your dude. -Sabrina>
Bettas don't like nitrites!
<Hi! Ananda here tonight...>
I have a 2 week old tank containing a Betta splendens (male), 2 zebra Danios, 2
platy and 2 black molly.
<Ack! Your tank is far too new to be holding that many fish. You should have let
it cycle first.>
Everything was fine for the first week and a half until the nitrite level raised
to about 5ppm. I carried out a 25% water change and then things started to go
wrong with my Betta. He started to turn white, loosing his colour, his skin is
rough and raised and he sits lifeless at the top of the tank refusing to eat. As
the black mollies started to pick on him I put him in a large isolation net but
it has made no difference. His fins appear thin and straggly. What can I do?
It's my daughters fish and I can't let him die.
<Your Betta can *not* survive in water with nitrites. You need to temporarily
move him into his own tank, or, if you must, a bowl or something that can hold
at least a half gallon of water. There is a nice little 1-gallon tank with a
filtration system for under $10 that I've seen available at chain store pet
stores and even Wal-Mart and Meijer's stores. Or if you can't do that, cut off
the top of a milk jug! This guy really needs pristine water conditions, pronto,
if he's going to survive. You will be doing *daily* partial water changes to
keep his water quality good! I would change about half of it a day, or more if
necessary. You need to keep the ammonia at zero, too, or his gills will get
damaged. Mollies, platies, and Danios are hardier fish, but I would continue
with daily partial water changes in the main tank so they are not stressed too
much. --Ananda >
Betta's First Day Home
To whom it may concern,
<Hi, Peter,>
Today we got a Betta fish. I rinsed the tank (about 1/8 gallon in size) with tap
water and then filled the it with bottled water. I then put my fish in and after
about one hour, I came to check on the critter. It was at the bottom of the tank
(still alive) and almost never swimming around. I know this is the first day but
is it normal for the fish to do this?
<No, not at all.>
Also I'm worried about the little amount of chlorine from the tap water. Will
this harm the fish?
<I sincerely doubt it. I trust you did not use any tapwater to fill the tank,
correct? Just the bottled water?>
It's a very small amount of chlorine.
<If the tank was only rinsed in tapwater, agreed.>
I also tried feeding it a little and it still wouldn't budge. I really need some
advice from the experts.
<It sounds perhaps that he didn't get a chance to acclimate to his new
water. Was there a temperature difference between the water he came home in and
the water in the tank? It could also be shock from differing pH, in which case,
the best thing you can do is let him recover on his own, changing the pH again
could cause more problems. Of course, it is also possible that he may have been
sick when you got him. Is there anything visibly wrong with him, physically?>
Thank you very much for your time!
<Sure thing. Hope all goes well, -Sabrina>
Thank you, Peter
Hexed Mini-Hex (1/20/04)
I received a 2.5 gal hexagon tank for Christmas it came with water
conditioner an undergravel filter and pump. I set it up and let it run without
fish for 2 weeks. <Actually a good idea to put a pinch of food in there to
generate nutrients for bacteria.> that's where everything I did right ended.
I went to get a single male Betta <good plan> for the tank (because I thought
they had to live alone) When the store attendant pointed out all the fish that
would live with the Betta I wanted them all! <They just wanted your money...> On
her recommendation I came home with 4 small zebra Danios 2 ghost shrimp the male
Betta and a heater, they also recommended adding a small algae eater when algae
started to develop. <...and they got it.>
Through the 1st week everything was normal ( I found out through research) the
water clouded then cleared on its own which I understand it part of the cycle
process and the water tested ok for a cycling tank. <Yes, but not normal for a
tank with fish in it.> Into week 2 the Betta became lethargic laying on the
bottom with an occasional swim to the top for air and back down again. I suppose
this is a good time to mention that I also way overfed these poor little guys
(They always seemed hungry and I didn't want them to starve). 2 days ago a test
of the water showed the
ammonia and pH through the roof, searching the web for answers led me to believe
a 50% water change with vacuuming would help the problem. <A temporary fix>
things seemed better in the tank for a day, when I retested the water today the
results were the same. So a trip to a different pet store <steer clear of the
other one in the future> this morning sent me home with Amquel <helps a bit>, ph
down <why?>, and an undergravel upgrade kit with a carbon insert. <Zeolite would
be better for ammonia>
I added the ph down and the Amquel, the carbon filter attachment is
for a 1" lift tube which they assured me was standard but it seems my lift tube
is only 1/2". so my 1st question: I have the top with the carbon insert sitting
over the lift tube is this inhibiting the way the filter works or is it still
working properly? <Should work some, but flow through it will not be ideal.>
2nd the water seems to be clouding again is this normal? <No. You need good
bacteria. If you could get a hold of some Bio-Spira, this may help.>
3rd the Betta seems happy and active again, the ghost shrimp are
more active then they ever were climbing the sides of the tank up and down and
the Danios have all gone to top of the water. Is this normal behavior? <Danios
love to swim actively in the upper tank. They are very active and do not belong
in such a small tank. Also, they will stress your low-moving Betta out. Were I
you, I would return them and stick with just the Betta in this tank. The "algae
eater" you bought is likely the king that will suck the skin off of your Betta
when it grow bigger. Otocinclus would be better.>
Last should I be doing something else at this point or just wait and see what
happens? <Patience is important. Consider doing what I mentioned above. Buy a
good book about freshwater aquaria or a good book about Bettas.> Thank you for
your help! Cathie
Water For A Betta - 08/05/2004
What type of water should I use for a male Betta fish in a fish bowl with a
plant?
<Just conditioned tapwater will do fine.>
Arrowhead type bottled water or distilled water?
<If these are the ONLY options, do NOT use distilled water; at least use
drinking water. However, it would be better for the fish (more constant pH,
etc.) if you simply use tapwater - just be sure to use a conditioner that
removes chlorine and chloramine in the water before using it for the
Betta. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Betta system
Hi Chuck
Thanks to your recommendations I will house my 1 Betta splendens alone
without Otocinclus
I'm getting a
10 gallon aquarium
a small Marineland (brand-if possible) outside power filter with the bio wheel
sand for substrate
a few plants that you've mentioned...You've mentioned to "tie" the java
fern (attractive plant) to driftwood - if I want a plant that seems
grounded-will the roots take hold on the wood being that they can't in sand?
< Java ferns roots often rot in sand so many aquarists tie them on to rocks and
driftwood fore awhile until the new roots take hold.>
The plants you've mentioned: hornwort, Naja grass are all floaters? - do any
of them have long reeds that grow down to bottom. And sand is preferable to
gravel for my Betta being more good bacteria can colonize..
<These floating plants eventually will send down runners that will root in the
gravel. Probably not where you want then. A good choice for a plant that is
anchored in the sand would be a Crypt wendtii. Not too particular about light or
water. Grows best in a Fluorite substrate by SeaChem. I have one in a 50 gallon
tank that gets to be the size of a basketball every year under ideal conditions.
It won't grow that fast in a small 1o gallon>
I'm glad you've mentioned these varieties of plants I'm not clear on the
"Pothos plant" you mean to just have its roots in tank - the plant itself is
not submerged in water?
< You can get then at any nursery. Wash off the roots or break a stem off and
place the lower end it in the aquarium in the corner out of the way were it will
get some indirect light. Eventually it will start rooting and the plant will
take off.>
would I have to secure the plant tie it to
something,
<They do like to grow so a trellis of some sort would help support it.>
you like the Pothos cause its roots suck up the nitrites very
well. Just trying to picture the image - hope it wont be an eye sore.
< This plant is not needed, but it is an option. It is just a suggestion to try
something new. Other people have done this in those jars/vases with a Betta in
the bottom and a plant growing out of the top. It is the same idea.>
So I take it you recommend "sand" for substrate and the plants that go with
it for my one Betta in 10 gal tank. Just noticing the plants seem to be
mostly floaters - I would like some long reed-like or plants which start
from bottom-up-(rooty plants) if that's possible with sand.
< The Val's or sag's produce long grass like leaves and many runners. The do
well under bright light conditions, but may require occasional fertilization.
You've also mentioned when I vacuum - to do 1/2 the tank 1st my Betta will
move to other side. Do you mean I should vacuum only 1/2 the sand for a week
then the other (side) 1/2 sand following week?
< Just alternate from side to side every time you do a water change. This will
keep the bacteria healthy and the sand clean.>
I called my aquarium store they don't carry Bio-Spira by Marineland,
they carry: "stress zyme", "cycle" and "Bactervital" which would you
recommend?
< The rest of these are all equal in their effectiveness.>
this might seem like silly ques. - sand wont irritate his gills -do I need
a certain grade of sand maybe medium?
< Bettas are not sand sifters. Some species of fish do mouth sand and gravel for
food but you don't have to worry about this with Bettas.>
And is it better to use a starter solution for cycling along with my
one Betta
I'm buying the whole package any day now being that fall is setting in
thanks again Diane
< The starter solutions would definitely help.-Chuck>
Betta Questions
Hello,
<Hi...Jorie here tonight.>
I have recently purchased a Betta and got him settled into his tank. He was very
shy at first and refused to eat.
<This is altogether normal, as long as it doesn't go on for more than a few
days. It takes Bettas a little bit to "settle in".>
I tested the pH of the water after a
couple of days and found that it was extremely low (around 5-it turns out we
have very soft water here, which I didn't know before) I did a half water change
with bottled water to try to raise the pH.
<Although we humans love it, bottled water isn't the greatest thing for fish, as
it is missing important trace elements and minerals. Perhaps look into an
inexpensive water filter such as the one put out by Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals...this unit will produce what's known as de-ionized water, and
you can purchase a couple of supplements to add the necessary elements back, and
adjust the pH (the pair sold by Aquarium Pharma. are called ElectroRight and pH
Adjust, respectively. Simple to use and very accurate - I used them for a couple
of years without problem.>
He's been fine since the water change, began to eat (he was spitting his food
out at first), built a bubble nest, etc., only now he's become extremely
aggressive. While he still doesn't react if I put him in front of a mirror, he
flares up if he sees my fingers near the bowl or if he sees my face when
I'm trying to look into the bowl from the side. Is this normal? I'm just
worried
that since he's flaring so often he's going to get stressed out.
<This is completely normal, don't worry! Bettas are such neat little creatures,
and each one really does have his own personality. I've got two
Bettas right
now (separate tanks of course!), and one is meek and timid, and the other is
just as you describe. Both are quite healthy.>
I looked all over for an answer to my question and couldn't find one, so I'm
hoping you can help me. I don't want to hurt him if I can help it.
<It sounds like you are taking very, very good care of your guy...what's his
name? Bubble nests are always a good sign...usually means near-optimum
conditions, so kudos to you for that. Also, it's great that you pay such close
attention to your Betta's actions. Have fun with him...since he doesn't respond
to the mirror, just put your face or finger in front of the tank a few minutes
each day to let him exercise. Sounds like he has a very nice home!
Thank you,
Ashley.
<You're welcome, Ashley. Take care, Jorie>
Betta Questions
Hi Jorie (or whoever reads this, I suppose :) )
<Yep, it's still me, Jorie>
I wasn't sure what to do about the water issue because I knew that bottled
water takes out some of the minerals but I wanted to get the pH up since it was
so low. I thought that since I don't really have the resources here at college
to deal with a filter that making a half dechlorinated tap water/half bottled
water combo would be the easiest way to up the PH and try to make sure that D'Artagnan has everything he needs. I will look into all that you
suggested, though, and see if it would be possible for me to prepare large
quantities of water while I'm at home on Thanksgiving break and bring it back
in gallon
jugs for class.
<Hi Ashley. Sounds like you made a wise decision having weighed the options. I
haven't tried it myself, but you could investigate whether a product like
ElectroRight would add essential elements back into bottled water, in addition
to reverse osmosis and/or de-ionized water, as it's meant for. That might do
the trick. Or, in all reality, you may be OK with your "half and half"
theory...sounds reasonable and smart to me. And yes, you could, if you wanted
to, prepare water at home and store it in gallon containers, if you had the
space...>
Thank you for your prompt reply! I haven't owned a fish in a very long time,
and I've never owned a Betta, so I'm kind of nervous. :)
<You should be just fine. Bettas are relatively easy to care for, and you sound
as though you are doing a great job. Please let me know if you have more
questions, though, and good luck in school! Jorie>
And I'm very glad to hear that it's not a bad thing that he's started to flare
up at me. I was concerned that it was a bad sign.
<Not at all. Just a feisty little guy you have!>
Thanks again,
Ashley
<You are welcome. Jorie>
Betta Habitat
I just lost my Betta, Sam. Sam and I had been together for a year and I
talked to him all the time. I was amazed at how much he understood. I am a
teacher, and deliberately tried to teach him by saying the same things in
the same way and same tone of voice, much as I had done when I had a dog.
<<Ok.>>
I thought I was doing him a favor two months ago, when I purchased a
ten-gallon tank with a heater and filter. And I bought three Neon Tetras to
keep him company. But he seemed to be jealous of these little guys and
chased them around and ate their food. (He stopped chasing them when I told
him to, and I told him what a "good fish" he was, but of course he started
again when he thought I wasn't looking.) He may have been eating too much,
which may have led to his demise. ?????????????
<<Bettas can be kept successfully with many other species of fish. I doubt the
overeating led to his demise, unless the uneaten food at the bottom of the tank
helped contribute to deteriorating water quality.>>
When he lived in a (one gallon) bowl, I cleaned it every week, including his
plants, rocks and gravel. I changed out two cups of water each morning and
one cup at night. I let the water sit around for a couple of days, but did
not use dechlorinator. I fed him five pieces of Betta bio gold one piece at
a time first thing in the morning. (I called them "dried bugs"). I tried
to do the same thing in the aquarium, and fed the tetras flake food. It
worked for a while, but then he figured what I was doing, before they even
knew I had fed them; he swam to the opposite end and ate their flakes.
<<Most tetras are faster than Bettas. If these tetras were not fast enough
to snag some food, then perhaps they are weakened by toxins in the water:
please test the water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. By the
way, tetras and Bettas eat the same foods in nature.>>
Anyway, I now have this tank and equipment, plants, gravel and three little
tetras. I am wondering whether to buy another Betta. And if I do, should I
keep the tetras, or would he be happier alone? What about a mirror?
<<No mirror. Get the water tested for the above things, and buy a new Betta only
if the
water quality tests fine. I don't mean a pH test, you must ask to have ammonia,
nitrite,
and nitrates tested. You need to know these values.>>
In the aquarium I changed out maybe a gallon and a half of water each week.
I know I need to clean it; I don't know how often.????????????????
<<A nitrate test kit will tell you this. Regular water testing will give you
test results, which you then compare to the color charts they come with. Keep
your nitrates in the 5-20ppm range by doing partial water changes.>>
Do I clean the tank as I did his bowl? Do I rinse the plants and clean the
rocks?
<<Buy a syphon at your LFS to vacuum your gravel with.>>
I used dishwasher detergent for his rocks and bowl, then rinsed
three times as the dishwasher does. I certainly would need to clean the
gravel.
Nedra
<<Never use detergent in a tank, or on the decor. This is poisonous. All you
need to do is vacuum the gravel weekly, and remove about 25-50% of the water,
which you will replace with dechlorinated water at the same temperature. You
can rinse plants and other decor with tapwater ONLY. Good luck.
-Gwen>>
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