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Top five
points:
1. Neons
must be kept in schools of six or more specimens in at least 37
litres/10 gallons. 2. Neons
will not live long in hard, alkaline water. 3. Neons
must not be kept too warm; 22-24 C/72-75 F. 4. Neons
need a dark, shady, preferably well planted aquarium. 5. Neons
will be eaten by larger fish, including Angelfish.
Introduction
Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon
innesi) are very popular fish, with millions of them imported into
the US alone. But despite their low price and wide availability, they
aren't the easiest fish to maintain. Beginners often find it
difficult to keep Neons alive for more than a few months. The reasons
for this are varied, but problems with water chemistry and water
temperature are certainly part of the problem, as well as the
widespread incidence of Neon Tetra Disease among farmed
Neons.
Description and
Taxonomy
Neon Tetras are small, minnow-like fish from
tropical South America. They are transparent except for an electric
blue band running along the upper half of the body from the eye to the
adipose fin and a red band beneath the blue band that runs from the
abdomen onto the base of the tail. During the night these colours are
'switched off', and this can cause some alarm when aquarists
confuse this normal action with the loss of colour seen when Neons get
sick. Sexual dimorphism is minimal, though females in breeding
condition will be noticeably plumper because of the eggs they are
carrying. Adult length is about 3-4 cm/1.2-1.6 inches. Neons belong to a small group of tetras,
Paracheirodon, that includes two very similar
species, the Cardinal Tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi)
and the Green Neon Tetra (Paracheirodon simulans).
Both the Neon and the Cardinal have names that honour aquarists:
William Innes in the case of the Neon, and Herbert Axelrod in the case
of the Cardinal.
Habitat
Neon Tetras come from shallow, sluggish streams
deep within the rainforests of Brazil, Colombia and Peru. The water in
these streams is very soft and acidic. Because these streams are in
shade and thick with rotting vegetation, the water is cool, gloomy, and
stained brown with tannins and humic acids. In fact Neons have their
brilliant colours so that they can see each other in the gloom. The
lack of light also means that aquatic plants aren't a major part of
this habitat, and instead Neons live in streams thick with tree roots,
decaying wood and leaf litter.
Aquarium maintenance: tank size,
Filtration and Decor
Neons are not especially active fish, but
because they need to be kept in groups of at least six specimens, their
aquarium should be at least 37 litres/10 US gallons in size. That will
not only provide ample swimming space for 6-10 specimens, it will also
leave enough space for suitable tankmates, of which more will be said
later. Neons dislike strong water currents.
Air-powered filters are ideal, and sponge, box, and undergravel filters
all suit them very well (though undergravel filters cannot be used in
combination with sand). If you must use an electric canister filter,
whether internal or external, or a hang-on-the-back filter, choose a
model that provides a relatively low turnover rate, 4 times the volume
of the tank per hour being about right. In other words, for a 10 US
gallon aquarium, choose a filter rated at about 40 US
gallons/hour. If you want your Neons to show their best
colours, their aquarium should be as dark as possible. In other words,
avoid bright light and don't use unnatural substrates that reflect
light upwards from the bottom of the tank. Neons may be kept in a
planted aquarium, where they will usually stay close to the bottom
where the vegetation is thickest. Alternatively, you could create a
more realistic setting using bogwood roots, smooth sand and Indian
almond leaves to recreate leaf litter. Blackwater extract or peat
granulate can be used to tint the water, but be aware that this will
lower the pH over time and cuts out the light that plants need, though
shade-tolerant epiphytic plants like Java moss, Java fern and Anubias spp won't mind too much. Black sand is a good decorative material for
the Neon tank, but it tends to be too sharp to use in tanks with
bottom-feeding fish such as catfish. Smooth silica sand, also known as
silver sand and pool filter sand, is a safer alternative. Despite its
yellow-tan colour, this sort of sand is very similar to the silica sand
found in many South American rivers and streams, so fits in with the
biotope. Bogwood is an authentic addition to the Neon
aquarium and when either placed on the bottom to resemble sunken wood
or else planted vertically to simulate tree roots. Bogwood will acidify
water over time, so take care to monitor pH if carbonate hardness is
much below 5 degrees KH. Otherwise artificial bogwood roots can be used
just as effectively but without any risk of water chemistry
changes.
Water
chemistry
Although Neons come from soft and often very
acidic streams in the wild, they are fairly adaptable in terms of water
chemistry. Anything between 2-10 degrees dH, pH 6-7.5 will suit them
well. They may accept slightly harder and more alkaline conditions, up
to perhaps 15 degrees dH, pH 7.5, but not always. Note that domestic water softeners do not
create soft water in the sense that is meant here, because all they do
is replace temporary hardness (carbonate hardness) with sodium salts so
that limescale problems are minimised. If you live in a hard water area, then mixing
your drinking water with reverse-osmosis (RO) water or rainwater should
create conditions that suit your Neons. For example, 'liquid
rock' hard water of the sort that comes out of chalk aquifers
commonly has a general hardness around 20 degrees dH and a pH around 8;
when mixed 50/50 with RO water or rainwater the resulting water
chemistry should be around 10 degree dH, pH 7.5, easily good enough for
Neons as well as most other South American tetras and catfish. If you
live in a hard water area and do not have access to RO water or
rainwater, then Neons are not a good choice for your
aquarium. Do not confuse pH with hardness! Simply adding
a pH buffer to hard water will not create soft water conditions, and
the resulting unstable water chemistry conditions will likely stress
your fish.
Water
temperature
Neons do not like excessively warm water;
between 22-25 degrees C/72-77 F is ideal. Short periods of warmer water
during summer will do them no harm, but if continually maintained above
25 C/77 F they will not do well. Likewise, colder conditions will
stress Neons, making them much more likely to sicken and
die.
Diet
In the wild Neons feed mostly on insect larvae
and tiny crustaceans, but they are very adaptable in aquaria and
readily take flake and small pellet foods. Occasional offerings of live
brine shrimp and daphnia are worthwhile though, if only to provide the
indigestible material that helps to avoid bloating and constipation.
Neons rarely take food from the surface but instead snap at food that
is drifting through the bottom half of the tank.
Social behaviour and
Tankmates
Neons are intensely social fish that must be
kept in groups of at least six specimens. Indeed, one of the best
indicators that a Neon is sick will be its failure to school properly
alongside its tankmates. The bigger the group, the happier your Neons
will be, and it's well worth keeping them in groups of a dozen or
more specimens for best results. Some stores give discounts when fish
of the same species are bought in large groups. Good tankmates for Neons will be species
similar in size and temperament that share the same need for cool,
soft, slightly acidic water conditions. Among the South American tetras
and characins that get along well with Neons are Red Phantom Tetras
(Hyphessobrycon sweglesi), Black Phantom Tetras
(Hyphessobrycon megalopterus), X-Ray Tetras
(Pristella maxillaris), Marbled Hatchetfish
(Carnegiella strigata) and Golden Pencilfish
(Nannostomus beckfordi). Virtually all the Corydoras catfish work well with Neons, though the dwarf
species like Corydoras hastatus and Corydoras habrosus would be the best choices for tanks
smaller than 60 litres/15 US gallons. Among the South American
suckermouth catfish, Otocinclus spp. work well, as
do Bristlenose Catfish (Ancistrus spp.) and
Whiptails (Rineloricaria spp.). Dwarf cichlids tend
to bully Neons, but the acaras are generally peaceful enough to ignore
Neons most of the time, in particular the Keyhole Cichlid (Cleithracara maronii), the Flag Acara (Laetacara curviceps) and the Red-breasted Acara (Laetacara dorsigera). If you want to look outside South America for
potential tankmates, possible choices include Cherry Barbs (Puntius titteya), Dwarf Golden Barbs (Puntius
gelius) and Five-Banded Barbs (Puntius
pentazona). The bigger barbs like Tiger Barbs and Ruby Barbs are
too aggressive to work well with Neons and are best avoided. Danios
such as Zebra Danios (Danio rerio) and Pearl Danios
(Danio albolineatus) are an option, but danios are
pushy, hyperactive fish likely to hog any food that doesn't quickly
sink down to the lower levels where Neons prefer to
feed. Among the fish to avoid are species that need
hard, alkaline water including the Central American livebearers like
Guppies, Mollies, Platies and Swordtails. Species that need warmer
water than Neons should also be avoided, perhaps most notably the
Gouramis. While Neons are not normally nippy fish, there are numerous
reports of them pecking at the fins of Siamese Fighting Fish, so
that's another combination to avoid. Neons are small fish and many opportunistic
predators will view them as potential meals given the chance. Angelfish
are notorious Neon-eaters, despite the common combination of Neons and
Angels seen in aquarium book photographs. Other occasional Neon-eaters
include Spiny Eels (Macrognathus spp.), Giant Danios
(Devario aequipinnatus) and Pimelodus Catfish
(Pimelodus pictus).
Healthcare
Neons are quite hardy fish when given the right
environmental conditions. Many problems come from trying to keep them
in hard or excessively warm water, as well as the usual problems
associated with poor water quality and overstocking, as well as
mortality caused by bullying and predation. However, one particular problem does need to be
mentioned: Neon Tetra Disease. There is some debate among aquarists
about which Neons have 'true' Neon Tetra Disease as caused by
Pleistophora hyphessobryconis as opposed to
'false' Neon Tetra Disease caused by an opportunistic bacterial
infection. Casual aquarists will probably find this academic, since
telling the two apart is impossible outside a microbiology lab.
'False' Neon Tetra Disease has been treated with antibiotics
with occasional success, but 'true' Neon Tetra Disease is
untreatable and invariably fatal. Neon Tetra Disease usually becomes evident when
one of the Neons leaves the group and instead hides away by itself,
often at the back of the tank. Indeed, it is often the case that the
aquarist realises something is wrong because his or her school of Neons
appears to be one short. Over time affected Neons stop eating as they
become weaker, and they usually lose their colour as well, the blue
band in particular become much fainter than usual. Death occurs within
a few days of these symptoms becoming evident. As stated earlier, 'true' Neon Tetra
Disease is invariably fatal, but it is also highly contagious, so any
Neons exhibiting these symptoms should be removed immediately. Treating
with antibiotics in a hospital tank may be worthwhile just in case the
aquarist is dealing with 'false' Neon Tetra Disease, but
otherwise affected Neons should be humanely destroyed. Immersion in a
mixture of 30 drops of clove oil in 1 litre/4 cups of aquarium water
will kill a Neon Tetra within a few minutes and without undue stress or
pain. Neon Tetra Disease is transmitted through
tissue fluids, most often when healthy fish cannibalise the corpse of a
dead Neon. This is why removal of sickly fish is so
important.
Breeding
Neons are egg-scatterers and are considered to
be quite easy to breed and details will be found in most books about
breeding fish. Successful breeding depends upon proper conditioning
first, which means keeping mature adults in optimal conditions and
feeding them three or four times per day on small portions of suitable
live foods such as daphnia. The water should be between 1-2 degrees dH
in general hardness and should have a pH between 5.5 and 6. Water
temperature should be about 22 C/72 F. Once the females are ripe with eggs and
noticeably plumper than usual, pairs can be moved to a spawning tank
around 30 litres/8 US gallons in size. Provide gentle filtration and
stock the tank with feathery plants like Cabomba and
Myriophyllum, but do not use any sort of aquarium
light. Instead allow morning sunshine to strike the tank for a few
hours, and raise the temperature to about 25 C/77 F. Males drive the females through the plants
where a few dozen eggs per spawning session. The adults can then be
removed and the tank kept as dark as possible (light seems to stop the
eggs from developing properly). The fry emerge after 24 hours, and
after another 3-4 days are ready to feed on tiny live foods including
infusoria. Some success has been had using liquid fry foods as well. A
week later the fry are ready to move onto brine shrimp nauplii and/or
finely powdered flake food. Neon fry grow quickly, but as with fish fry
generally, they are sensitive to old, stale water so it is important to
provide regular water changes to keep conditions in the rearing tank
nice and fresh.
Artificial varieties: Long-fin,
Diamond, Gold and Albino Neons
Long-Fin Neons have been bred to have longer
fins than normal Neons. Obviously they cannot be kept with nippy
tankmates, but it is also important to use a smooth substrate and
gentle filtration so that the fins don't get torn. Even under the
best circumstances they tend to end up looking ragged. Crooked spines
are often seen among Long-Fin Neons, suggesting they may be rather
inbred. The Diamond Neon is a new variety that has blue
spots on its head instead of the usual blue stripe along the flanks.
Otherwise it conforms to the standard Neon in terms of care, and unlike
Long-Fin Neons doesn't seem to suffer from any particular health
problems. The Gold Neon has a yellowy rather than silver
body, and the red and blue stripes on its flanks are far weaker than on
normal Neon Tetras. This variety isn't especially attractive and
doesn't seem to be widely sold. The same holds true for the Albino
Neon, a form that has an even paler body than the Gold Neon as well as
the pink eyes typical of albino fish. It is even more sensitive to
bright light than ordinary Neons, and perhaps a touch more delicate in
terms of overall care.
The Other Paracheirodon: Cardinals And Green Neons
Cardinals look like larger, chunkier versions
of Neons with a more extensive red band that runs the full length of
the body. Basic care is identical to that of Neons, except that
Cardinals need warmer water, ideally 26-28 C/79-82 F. As such
they're an excellent choice for community tanks maintained at
higher than average temperatures, and work well with Lace Gouramis, Ram
Cichlids, Angelfish and Discus. Cardinals get to an adult length of 4-5
cm/1.8-2 inches. If kept in soft, acidic water conditions
Cardinals are quite hardy. Only occasionally do they suffer from Neon
Tetra Disease, usually when they've been kept alongside farmed
Neons. Most of the Cardinals traded are wild-caught and quite
expensive, typically 2-3 times the price of farmed Neons, but less
expensive farmed Cardinals are increasingly widely sold. Green Neons are still pretty rare in the trade.
They resemble ordinary Neons but have a greenish rather than
transparent body; they also tend to be smaller too, about 2.5 cm/1 inch
in length when fully grown. Care is almost identical to that of the
Cardinal Tetra, but they are shyer and absolutely must be kept in a
quiet aquarium with suitably warm, soft, and acidic water conditions.
They are not good community fish, except with small, peaceful
tankmates: Pencilfish, Kuhli Loaches, Whiptail Catfish, Sparkling
Gouramis and so on.
Close: Some Hard Water
Alternatives To Neons
As wonderful as Neon Tetras can be, aquarists
dealing with hard, alkaline water conditions would do well to skip
Neons in favour of fish likelier to do better over the long term. X-Ray
Tetras in particular are easy to keep and adaptable, and will tolerate
hard water much better than Neons, even water as hard as 20 degrees dH
posing them no particular problems. X-Ray Tetras are very peaceful
fish, and make excellent community tank residents. The Red-Eye Tetra
(Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae) is another very
sturdy South American tetra that will thrive in hard water, but it is
boisterous can will sometimes nip at the fins of slow-moving tankmates
such as Guppies and Angelfish, so it's best kept with reasonably
sturdy companions like catfish, loaches, danios and so on. X-Ray Tetras
can do well in tanks as small as 60 litres/15 US gallons, but Red-Eye
Tetras are that bit more active and will need a tank at least twice
that size to do well. A school of Celebes Rainbowfish (Marosatherina ladigesi) could make a fine alternative to Neon
Tetras. At up to 8 cm/3 inches in length they're a bit bigger than
the Neon, but they do have some of the electric blue colouration that
makes Neons so eye-catching, this time as a blue stripe halfway along
the flank towards the base of the tail. Otherwise they are basically
transparent except for various black and yellow markings on their fins.
Celebes Rainbowfish are playful fish that do best in well-planted
aquaria with plenty of swimming space; keep them in long tanks at least
75 litres/20 US gallons in size. Dwarf Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia praecox) are another good alternative to the
Neon Tetra. These are deep-bodied metallic blue fish with red to purple
fins, and while not an exact substitute for the Neon, they are hardy
and easy to keep, and as such one of the best small schooling fish
species for hard water communities. |
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