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| FAQs on Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Disease
Involving Hexamita/Octomita Related Articles: Freshwater Fish Diseases,
Freshwater Diseases, FW
Disease Troubleshooting, Ich/White
Spot Disease,
Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease
Treatment Options by Neale Monks,
Formalin/Formaldehyde,
Malachite Green,
Related FAQs: Freshwater
Protozoan Parasite Diseases,
Diagnosing/Identifying FW Protozoan Diseases,
FW Fish
Parasitic Disease 1, & FAQs on: Diagnosis/Identification of Parasites, Internal
Parasites,
FW Parasite Treatments,
Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Diseases,
Diagnosing/Identifying FW Protozoan Diseases,
(Ich/White
Spot Disease, Freshwater Velvet, Sporozoan Parasites, Whirling Disease, Hexamita/Octomita in
Freshwater Systems,) &
Cichlid Disease,
African Cichlid Disease,
Aquarium
Maintenance, FW Infectious Disease, Freshwater
Medications, African Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid Disease, Betta Disease 1,
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Considered by many to some as the/a causative organism for the
neuromast destruction called "Head and Lateral Line Disease" in fishes. Often
one cause for "stringy white feces"... Most often treated with/through foods
laced with protozoacides (e.g. Flagyl/Metronidazole) |
Hexamita, help!– 10/5/08
hey,
<Ave,>
i have a 100 gallon (US) tank with 4 juvenile jewel cichlids, 4 juvenile tiger
Oscars and 2 Plecos. i have two internal power filters, filtering approximately
500 gallons an hour, as well as a thermostat heating system maintaining
temperature at a constant 25 Celsius. I
noticed a pair of my Oscars getting lazy and just kind of leaning by themselves
up against the corner of the tank. I noticed their poop had turned a greyish
white and researched that a primary cause of that would be internal parasites.
<Can be; does rather vary with the parasite!>
Unfortunately in India, where i reside, we don't have the full barrage of fish
medication available so i took a metronidazole tablet meant to be taken thrice a
day by a human adult
powdered it and let it loose in the tank in the hope it would treat the fish.
Any suggestions or Advice?
<Should work, assuming the concentration is appropriate (7 mg/l according to
Andrews, Exell and Carrington (1988), potentially several times, repeating every
other day, with a 25% water change in between). Do also see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/metranidazole.htm
>
thank you,
Kaustuv
<Cheers, Neale.>
Ulcers on angelfish, FW
8/12/08
The issue in question is currently isolated to my 29 gallon tank. The
tank is about 19 months old and decorated with driftwood and a few live
plants including Corkscrew Val's, Ludwigia, Anubias, and Amazon Swords.
Despite the presence of plants it is by no means a "planted" tank. The
lights are controlled by a digital timer. Filtration is provided by an Eheim
Ecco 2232 loaded with coarse and fine filter pads as well as Substrat Pro
Bio Media. The water is also passed through Current's 8 watt Gamma UV filter
fitted with a Mini Jet 606 pump. The water parameters are consistently 0, 0,
and 20 ppm for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate respectively. Inhabitants
include 3 angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) and two Keyhole cichlids. They
are feed a variety of quality foods including flake, pellet, and freeze
dried worms.
<All sounds dandy.>
The infected fish is the most recent addition, the third angelfish. This
fish was first quarantined for two weeks with no signs of disease. It had
been in the 29 gallon tank for about four weeks before the symptoms were
first observed. It may be important to point out that this fish is not being
bullied, and has always been able to eat it fair share. All other fish have
not thus far and have never displayed any symptoms of disease. As far as I'm
concerned they have always been in excellent health.
<OK.>
The first observations of symptoms on this fish were white patches randomly
covering the body. These observations were made after a two night vacation.
Some were on the right caudal peduncle, one at the base of the caudal fin,
another at the tip of an anal fin spine, one spot on the each side's gill
cover, and the last just above his mouth. I immediately treated with API
Fungus Cure. At the end of the recommended treatment period most white
patches were clearing so I continued treatment with Pimafix. At this point I
noticed that the white patches left holes or ulcers on each gill cover and
the spot just above the mouth. These ulcers are not bleeding or leaking
anything, and are not remarkable other than just being present. After this I
also added Melafix to prevent possible secondary infection, and to utilize
any healing effects that the added Aloe may provide. I also started feeding
the only medicated food I had which contains sodium sulfathiazole and
Nitrofurazone.
<There's really two things that spring to mind: Finrot (or something
similar) or Hexamita. Now, Finrot is almost always associated with water
quality, but in this instance that doesn't seem likely. Your tank sounds
well maintained, though I'd argue a trifle overstocked for five cichlids of
moderate size. But your nitrate level is low and the ammonia/nitrite levels
are zero, so that's probably not an issue. Physical damage is the other
common cause of Finrot, whether through transportation (careless netting
especially) or fighting. Angelfish *are* territorial, and I've not seen many
trios work in small tanks. On the whole Angelfish work either as singletons,
mated pairs, or groups of 6+. Three specimens is a funny number, because you
could easily have a pair who resent the newcomer. Angelfish are impossible
to sex outside of spawning (and even then they make mistakes themselves!) so
this one is difficult to confirm either way. But I would definitely observe
their social behaviour. Things like fin flicking and chasing are typical
signs of aggression. Angelfish sometimes even make audible croaks when
they're being threatening. Next up, Hexamita, a protozoan probably latent in
many cichlids but only problematic if conditions deteriorate in some way.
Because this is a slow-acting disease, the fish could have developed
sickness at the retailer, and only now are the problems manifesting
themselves regardless of how well you're caring for them. Hexamita does at
least two different things. Firstly it messes up the digestive tract,
leading to the classic white stringy faeces, or it causes pits to appear on
the face and body (the symptoms known as "Hole in the Head"). Treatment of
Hexamita is difficult, but Metronidazole added daily at 250 mg per 10 US
gallons for at least 3 days is the standard therapy. Medicated foods work
even better if the fish is eating. Now, I have to admit neither Finrot nor
Hexamita seems to fit 100% the symptoms you describe; photos would help.>
Does it seem like I really have this under control?
<Difficult without confirmation of the sickness.>
Can I do anything further to heal these open ulcers and how long can I
expect this to heal?
<You should certainly be treating for Finrot/Fungus if only to prevent
secondary infections. In the US Maracyn seems to be the drug of choice for
this; in Europe I recommend eSHa 2000. Pimafix/Melafix are largely useless
and at best unreliable.>
Lastly, what am I dealing with here?
<Not sure.>
I feel Hole in the Head disease just doesn't seem to fit here.
<Agreed, but certainly worth considering.>
Certainly pictures I've seen don't seem to match, whereas HITH seems to form
pits these are open wounds or ulcers.
<One possible alternative is "Discus Plague", a nebulous collection of
symptoms with no obvious cause and no agreed treatment. It sometimes affects
Angels, particularly commercially bred ones rather than wild-caught ones. I
don't think is is likely, but I'm putting it out there for your
consideration and research.>
Thank you for your time.
<Cheers, Neale.>
High Mortality Rate, FW, poss. Hexamita/Octomita
7/1/06
My daughter has had her Eclipse 12 aquarium for a little over a year. We
have a high death rate.
<Not good>
In 13 months we have had about 18 out of 25 fish die. We test our water
regularly at the local fish store and it always test at normal levels.
<Mmm, you might want to invest in some simple test gear for your own,
at-home use. Many important parameters can/do change in just the short trip
to the store... And these tests, testing can be a useful element of
education, sharing as well>
Deaths include about 6-9 platies, 3 dwarf gouramis, 2 albino catfish, 1
skirt tetra and 2 rasboras.
<A broad mix of tolerant species...>
Our original skirt tetra is alive after 1 year and 3 of the 5 rasboras we
bought are still alive after 6 months. Many of the fish wasted away. Also
some mainly the gouramis had a hair-like excrement.
<... trouble. This could well be indicative of a persistent protozoan
parasite (Octomita/Hexamita...)>
We finally treated for internal parasites. We bought our first 2 fish from
one of those large chains and believe it might have brought a parasite with
it.
<Given what you present here, I concur>
We did two treatments ( 2 doses each I think) a week or two apart.
<With what medication?>
Two fish died after that. We did not add any fish for at least 2 month
after that. When we did add 3 guppies and 1 dwarf Gourami,
the male guppy died after 2 days. The Gourami died after we added 3 more
guppies 2 days later. I realize we added fish to quickly, but we were given
the second batch. I am wondering if these last two deaths are likely due to
stress or are there other things we should try.
<Possibly>
The male bloated before dying, the Gourami just died. I am getting really
frustrated and my daughter is getting very discouraged. Can you give me
some suggestions on how to reduce the death rate.
<A few things, yes. For one, if this problem is Hexamitiasis and unless it
was eradicated through treatment... it's still there (a very common cause of
continuing high losses from and through fish stores). I would treat your
system with Metronidazole/Flagyl to be sure. Please see WWM re this
anti-protozoal, its careful use, and Hexamita... and particularly here re
Gouramis:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GouramiDisFAQs.htm
and the next FAQ file linked above. Bob Fenner>
Discus with Hexamita? - 02/02/2004
Please help...I don't want to lose me discus fish. I have been treating with
rid-ich for 5 days now. The ich is almost gone, but the fish have developed
cloudy eyes, a whitish clear coating on their bodies and ragged fins.
<This sounds perhaps like "skin slime disease" - caused by
protozoan parasites, likely Hexamita, or possibly Ichthyobodo (Costia),
Childonella, Trichodina.... All should respond favorably to Metronidazole
administered in food. Metronidazole can be found made by Aquatronics (Hex-a-Mit,
green or blue box) and by Seachem (simply Metronidazole).>
I have a 55 gallon aquarium. Temp is at 86 degrees. Nitrates, nitrites and
ammonia are ok. Ph is at 7. I've been doing a 20 - 25% water change daily, and I
added 8 tablespoons of aquarium salt to the water. Please let me know what else
I should do....
<A good start - and may in and of itself effect improvement or cure. I would
still treat with Metronidazole in food.>
Thank you sooooo much, Anna
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
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