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| FAQs on Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Disease Related Articles: Freshwater Fish Diseases,
Freshwater Diseases, FW
Disease Troubleshooting, Ich/White
Spot Disease,
Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease
Treatment Options by Neale Monks,
Formalin/Formaldehyde,
Malachite Green,
Related FAQs:
Diagnosing/Identifying FW Protozoan Diseases,
FW Fish
Parasitic Disease 1, & FAQs on: Diagnosis/Identification of Parasites, Internal
Parasites,
FW Parasite Treatments,
Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Diseases,
Diagnosing/Identifying FW Protozoan Diseases,
(Ich/White
Spot Disease, Freshwater Velvet, Sporozoan Parasites, Whirling Disease, Hexamita/Octomita in
Freshwater Systems,) &
Cichlid Disease,
African Cichlid Disease,
Aquarium
Maintenance, FW Infectious Disease, Freshwater
Medications, African Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid Disease, Betta Disease 1,
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Aftermath of parasites, FW
7/5/07
Hello all,
<<Hello, Eric. Tom here.>>
First, I'd like to thank you so much for this wonderful service, and for the
wealth of information one can find here!
<<Thank you for the kind words, Eric. Much appreciated by all, I’m sure.>>
I'm writing about a recently set up 130g aquarium. It came down with a ich
infestation about a month ago when we introduced two young jack Dempseys without
quarantine (a mistake I will *never* make again, I assure you!).
<<Good man! Sorry it was a hard lesson learned, though.>>
It seemed like the problem had been mated after a week and a half of high
temperature and malachite green treatments, but 2 or 3 days after we stopped
medicating, one of the jacks and a Severum came down with signs of Chilodonella
(constantly staying near the surface in spite of abundant aeration -- one air
pump and ample water-return disturbance at the surface -- and bluish/white
patches just over the eyes and around the gill area). That's when I decided I
had had it with paying a fortune to medicate the display tank, bought a
quarantine tank, and moved everyone to it (the Severum and the two jacks. The 4
Corydoras and 2 clown loaches we had unfortunately all succumbed during
treatment).
<<So far, Eric, this response is writing itself. Bob’s going to thank you for
helping me keep my mouth shut.>>
The QT is a 20g with basic filtration and heating. I'm medicating with Seachem
Paraguard at 1ml/8L (recommended dosage). I also gave daily salt baths to all
fishes so long as they looked infected. They have been in the QT for two weeks
now. They are all doing much better now, and unless something pops back up, I
will discontinue medication tomorrow.
<<Glad to hear things are on the upswing for you and your pets!>>
The Severum actually made an impressive recovery: he passed from extremely
laboured to completely normal breathing, and his minor
case of (what I take to have been) stress-induced fin rot has all but
disappeared. Everyone is eating as well.
<<Excellent.>>
Now my question is the following: what do I do with the main tank?
It's been running empty for 2 weeks now, and I changed about 60% of the water. I
intend on keeping the fishes in observation in the QT for another week at least,
but in the meantime, should I medicate the display tank in any way, or is it
safe to assume that parasites will have all died out without hosts?
<<Keep the temperature up and add carbon to your filter, if you haven’t already
done so, to remove any remaining med’s. Water changes will assist in this as
well. Given a time frame of, at least, three weeks of elevated temperatures and
no host fish, if there’s a parasite left (even at this point) you’ll have
presented the hobby a whole new ball game where Ick is concerned. (There are
known strains of Ick that have survived temperatures to 90 degrees F. but there
is no dormancy involved with this pest so you should be “golden”, even now.)>>
Also, will it have to re-cycle, after having been fish-less for this long?
<<Very little question about it, Eric. Supply and demand. Count on re-cycling
before re-introducing your fish. I’d give you my patented “BIO-Spira” pep talk
but noted above that your spelling of “labored” is “laboured” which leads me to
believe that it probably isn’t available where you live. In fact, I know it
isn't. (Been through this with another "friend" from Montreal.) You know the
cycling “drill” already though and there are other methods of “jump starting”
the process.>>
Thanks a lot in advance!
Best,
Eric
<<Best to you as well, Eric. Sorry for your losses but I’m relieved to hear that
things have gone well, in a manner of speaking, for your Cichlids. Continued
good luck. Tom>>
Re: Aftermath of parasites, FW
7/7/07
Thanks Tom for your reply!
<<Sure thing, Eric.>>
I just have one other quick question:
> have all died out without hosts? <<Keep the temperature up and add carbon to
your filter, if you haven't already done so, to remove any remaining med's.
Water changes will assist in this as well. Given a time frame of, at least,
three weeks of elevated temperatures and no host fish, if there's a parasite
left (even at this point) you'll have presented the hobby a whole new ball game
where Ick is concerned. (There are known strains of Ick that have survived
temperatures to 90 degrees F. but there is no dormancy involved with this pest
so you should be "golden", even now.)>>
Actually, it's the Chilodonella I was the most worried about.
<<Ahhh, and my apologies for skipping over this.>>
I remember reading somewhere that it's temperature resistant, and that it could
survive in dormancy in filter media, substrate, plants, etc.
Is there any truth to that?
<<Yes, there is, on both counts.>>
If so, what's the best way to make sure the aquarium is safe to accommodate the
fishes again? Massive dose of medication, standard medication over several days,
salt?
<<Actually, the good news is that there are a variety of treatments at your
disposal. Salt for a couple of weeks will do well but I don’t recommend this
because of the plants. A combination of malachite green and formalin, copper
(Aquarisol, for instance), Acriflavine or methylene blue are all
recommended/suggested. A single treatment should do it but since you’re
currently “fishless” and will be re-cycling anyway, I wouldn’t be reluctant to
provide a couple of treatments with water changes between each.>>
In any case, I'm probably going to re-cycle the tank fishless with ammonia, so
whatever I end up doing will involve a 70%-ish water change at the end to remove
nitrates anyway. I just want to make sure I'm not under treating the problem.
<<I don’t think you’ll be under-treating at all with two treatments of any of
the products mentioned earlier, Eric.>>
Thanks so much again!
<<You’re quite welcome.>>
Best,
Eric
<<Best to you, Eric. Tom>>
UV filtration with 2 filters, and parasitic
FW sys. f' 7/26/07
Hello again!
I'm the one who recently asked about treating a 130g tank that had gone through
a nasty outbreak of Chilodonella, before reintroducing the then cured fishes. I
followed the advice I received, and treated with Malachite green/formalin for a
few days, coupled with massive water changes. I cycled the tank, and have since
successfully transferred all afflicted fishes back (and some more) and so far,
everyone is doing very well. No signs of ill-health at all. Thanks again for the
advice!
<Congrats!>
My question this time has to do with the set up itself, especially filtration.
The tank is 72 x 24 x 16 inches and filtration is provided by an Eheim Pro II
2028. I've come to realise that I'm probably under filtering: the Eheim is rated
for 277 GPH, which I hear corresponds to the flow-rate without any media in the
box. This means that in actual practice I'm probably getting my volume turned
over at most 1.5x an hour.
<Yes>
So I figured I probably should get another filter, and in any case, it certainly
can't hurt. Wouldn't you agree?
<I do>
I'm especially leaning towards the Filstar XP4, since I can get one on sale for
rather cheap. Flow rate seems a bit high to me (450GPH), but I suppose with a
spray bar turned in towards the glass, the fishes (Severums, Geophagus and jack
Dempseys) wouldn't mind the flow.
<Not at all>
Now, I also wanted to add a turbo-twist (Coralife) UV steriliser, but was
wondering what the most efficient way to set it up would be. Does it make a
difference which filter I mount the lamp on?
<In this case... not really... both will/would provide adequate circulation...
both magnetic driven pumps will be about the same mal-influenced...>
I figured the one with the higher flow rate would be preferable, since the water
would get to meet the light more often.
<Mmm... oh, I see you address this below>
So, I figured the best option would be to get the 36W model, for flow-rates
between 400 and a 1000 GPH, and mount it on the Filstar.
<Yes... these would be well-matched>
Then again, I was worried that once loaded with media, the actual performance of
the filter could fall below this.
<You are correct>
How damaging would that be in practice?
<Mmm, not enough to be overly concerned>
Would I be better off getting the lower powered lamp (18W) and reducing the
flow-rate to below 400GPH?
<Yes... IMO this would be fine>
That would put me on the higher-end of the scale and, I fear, would reduce
efficiency due to decreased exposition time.
What would you recommend I do?
<I'd go with the 18 watt unit... and hook it up to the new filter>
I'll set up the filter first, to test the actual flow rate, but should I find it
to be below 400GPH, which of the two filters should I mount the lamp on?
Ideally, I'd have one on each but, well, one's funds are never unlimited...
Thanks again for this truly wonderful service you are providing.
Best,
Eric
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
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Trichodina spreading rapidly in my Gourami tank 11/25/06
Hi everyone.
<<Hello, Sara. Tom here.>>
First I'd like to express gratitude to you guys for sharing your time and
knowledge. Your website is truly fish lifesaving. Thanks.
<<We’re happy to help and your kind words are very much appreciated.>>
I have a 29 gal. tank with 2 adult gold gouramis, 1 adolescent pearl Gourami, 1
young blue Gourami, 1 young gold Gourami and 11 aeneus catfish of all ages who
are constantly reproducing. Earlier this evening I noticed Jeb, my blue
Gourami, slightly rocking back and forth. I immediately went to your website for
info on treating Trichodina infestation.
<<A conclusive determination of this would require a microscopic examination,
Sara. Probably as good a “guess” as anything else but without visible evidence
it’s still a guess. I mention this because, obviously, we first want to be sure
of what we’re treating for or, as close to it as a reasonable person could
conclude. Second, there are parasitic infestations that don’t respond at all to
certain medications which could leave us with a three-fold problem, i.e. we’ve
incorrectly medicated our fish (never good), we’ve lost valuable time in a
virtually worthless regimen and we’ve still got the original problem.>>
Merely four hours later and all of my gouramis are rocking back and forth and
flicking against the filter intake. It's 2:00 am and the only thing I have on
hand is "Tank Buddies - Parasite Clear Fizz Tabs" by Jungle Labs. Are you
familiar with this remedy?
<<The latest generation of this product contains Praziquantel, Metronidazole and
acriflavine. Sort of a “shotgun-approach” medication. Praziquantel may be toxic
to Corys and, reportedly, isn’t advised as a treatment regimen with
young/juvenile fish. Personally, I wouldn’t risk using it.>>
If so, should I use it or wait until I can get something else? The box indicates
usage for both external and internal parasites. The ingredients are based on
dimenthyl phosphonate and Metronidazole.
If you have time to respond, it would be greatly appreciated.
<<Since healthy fish normally deal with Trichodina at tolerable levels with no
ill effects, an “outbreak” has some root cause that must be corrected before any
treatment will be truly successful. I don’t consider over-crowding to be the
problem so I’d turn to water quality as the source of the stress in your fish –
the reason for the “population boom” in the parasites. Change out 25%-30% of
your tank’s water and premix 4-5 tablespoons of aquarium salt to the new water
before adding this back to the aquarium. While Corys aren’t particularly
tolerant of salt, this level shouldn’t prove an issue with them and is safer, in
the long run, than many medications would be. Of course, you’ll want to monitor
your fish closely for both the effectiveness of this regimen and for signs of
stress in the Corys, specifically. Again, I don’t consider salt at this low
level to be a problem but fish have an amazing talent for surprising me.>>
Thanks again,
Sara
<<There are more aggressive measures that could be taken here, Sara, but let’s
not go after the “fly” with a sledgehammer just now. If the infestation is, in
fact, Trichodina, it’s probably the least of the common parasitic problems that
our fish may have to face. Nothing to disregard, certainly, as the added stress
can lead to bigger problems but, in itself, doesn’t scream out for aggressive
treatment. With a little luck, your pets should be back to normal soon. Best
regards. Tom>>
Re: Trichodina and "Fizz Tabs" II 11/26/07
Hi.
<<Hi, Sara. Tom again.>>
Sorry to bother you guys again.
<<No bother...>>
I just read the article on DTHP which answered my question. So, I will go ahead
with the Fizz Tabs.
<<Keep a close eye on the Corys, Sara. Still need to find/eliminate the root
cause as well.>>
Thank you.
Sara
<<You're welcome. Tom>>
Re: Trichodina spreading rapidly in my Gourami tank III
11/26/07
Thanks so much, Tom.
<<Happy to help, Sara. (Guess my response caught up with you, eh?)>>
I won't use the Fizz Tabs but instead I'll try changing the water and adding the
salt. I'll let you know how it turns out.
<<I'd appreciate that, Sara. The Corys are still likely to be the "weak link" as
they would with just about any treatment but I consider this the wiser way to go
right now. For what it's worth, I use this concentration of salt in my community
tank in conjunction with my regular water changes and my Emerald Green Corys
(Brochis, actually) are fine with it. Please, do keep me posted.>>
Sara
<<Tom>>
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How Do Fish Get Protozoa Infection
How do fish get protozoa infection? My aquarium is not new and I just got done cleaning it and I put that Ich-rid in it. Thank you for the information and you helped me A LOT!!
Samantha
<As with any infection, first it must be present in your tank. And then, in most cases, the fish must be stressed to a point that lowers his immunity. Wrong temp, poor diet, bad water can all cause stress. Why did you add Rid Ich? Did you have Ich? Never treat unless you must. Keeping a stable
temperature, feeding high quality foods and frequent partial water changes will do far more for your fish than chemicals randomly dumped in your tank. Don>
I really don't think it's ich
Hi, I'm writing about a problem with my pleco. I bought a clown pleco
recently and put it in my tank, and a few days later noticed a few white
bumps on his body. I don't think it's ich... I've had fish with that before,
and ich looks like sugar or salt sprinkled on the body, right?
<Usually, yes>
This looks
more like he has warts. They're about the size of his eye or larger. I
read up to see if it was a fungus, but all the stuff on fungus described it
as "cottony"...and this isn't cottony, it's smooth. Yesterday it spread to
our loaches... I don't know what it is, so I'm not sure how to treat it. On
that note, though, all I have in the tank are Cory cats, upside-down cats,
loaches and the one pleco. So would I need a special medication, since
they're all scaleless?
<I would treat this as it has spread... and may well be parasitic in nature...
with a less toxic "ich" medicine (are good for most all external parasites) at
half dose, raising your water temperature to the mid 80's F., and possibly
adding a teaspoon of salt per five gallons of water (okay for Corydoras at this
concentration) over a period of three days>
It's a 55-gallon with an undergravel filter, if that helps...
Thanks for your help,
Sarah
<Does help. Do monitor your nitrogen cycle and have new water available in case
you need to change... Bob Fenner>
Single celled question
thank you chuck, but what is a protozoa??
< It is a pathogen that has a complex life cycle that is also very motile so
they can spread disease rapidly in an aquarium.>
Also I got this food its called Pepso or something and it said that it killed
parasites.
< That medicated food is used for internal parasites.>
Another thing is my fish's eyes look like they popped out of their head. My pH is
high but my nitrites are unsafe.
< Do a 30% water change to reduce the nitrites and treat the fish with
Metronidazole for pop-eye.-Chuck>
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