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FAQs on Freshwater Fish Parasite Diseases:
Treatments
Related Articles: Freshwater Fish Diseases,
Freshwater Diseases, FW
Disease Troubleshooting, Ich/White
Spot Disease,
Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease
Treatment Options by Neale Monks,
Formalin/Formaldehyde,
Malachite Green,
Related FAQs: FW Fish
Parasitic Disease 1, & FAQs on: Diagnosis/Identification of Parasites, Internal
Parasites,
Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Diseases,
Diagnosing/Identifying FW Protozoan Diseases,
(Ich/White
Spot Disease, Freshwater Velvet, Sporozoan Parasites, Whirling Disease, Hexamita/Octomita in
Freshwater Systems,) Worm Diseases,
Cichlid Disease,
African Cichlid Disease,
Aquarium
Maintenance, FW Infectious Disease, Freshwater
Medications, African Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid Disease, Betta Disease 1,
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Question re: anti-parasitic
medicated fish food for Platys 2/24/08
Hello Crew,
I have spent hours reading the FAQ's and your responses (my favourite being the
one with the lady and her boyfriend having issues with breeding and Don spitting
out his coffee) and have found them entertaining and informative.
Now I have a question, which I hope you will answer. I have a 35 gallon tank,
which has been in operation for about 3 years, so is well-cycled. I do regular
water changes and periodically test the levels of nitrates, ph, and ammonia. All
seem to be consistently within acceptable ranges. This tank is planted with a
large number of artificial (plastic) plants, as well as live plants. There is 1
to 2" of gravel, 3 ornamental logs for hiding places, an undergravel filter, an
outside 3 stage power filter, and a bubble bar. 6 weeks ago, my son helped me by
bringing over his gravel vacuum and vacuuming the gravel in this tank. This
resulted in a 50% water change.
The livestock in this tank includes one elderly Pleco, whom I inherited with the
tank, about 7 inches in length, 2 pearl Danios, 3 blacklight tetras, one of
which is very large (platy sized), 2 Glowlight tetras, and my favourites, 2
adult male platys, and currently only 1 adult female platy. There have been no
new introductions of fish for the past year, although there are about 15
juvenile platys of ages varying from 2 to 5 months. I feed twice a day, with
premium flake food and supplement with blanched romaine lettuce which seems to
go over very well with the platys, old and young.
This past week, I lost an adult female Mickey Mouse Platy. She was one of the
original introductions, so I was sorry to lose her. Her history includes being
placed in a nursery net within the main tank, when I was quite sure she was
about to give birth. She had the gravid spot, and I could see the dark eyes of
the babies. She was very unhappy in the nursery net, so after 4 days with no
results, I released her into the main tank. That was probably a year ago, and
while she never lost the gravid spot, the dark eyes disappeared and there never
were any babies. The one male platy who is always 'on the make' seemed to know
she was of no use to him, and would chase her away.
For several weeks before her demise, she did have what I have seen described on
your site as 'whitish stringy poop'. Up until 2 days before she went, she was
still eating, and swimming normally. During those last 2 days, she was hiding,
and not coming out to eat.
Today I noticed this 'whitish stringy poop' from the second, less aggressive
adult male Sunset Platy.
My question is, should I be concerned about a parasitic infection, and should I
start feeding the anti-parasitic medicated fish food? Is it safe for the
juvenile platys and the rest of the fish? Should I abstain from feeding the
blanched romaine lettuce while feeding the medicated food?
I do realize my current ratio of 2 adult male platys to 1 adult female is not
ideal, but the 2nd male is not particularly amorous, although by their
colouring, I do believe some of the juveniles are his descendants. I also have a
2nd tank, populated with a school of Cardinal Tetras, and one small, skittish
Pleco. My intention is to move some of the juvenile platys to this tank as they
mature.
Thank you, for having such an informative site, and for your anticipated
response to my long-winded email.
Aprilwine
<Anti-parasite food is usually safe for juvenile fish. In this instance I
wouldn't bother unless I saw any other fish producing abnormal faeces. Do also
switch to high-fibre foods for a while -- algae, daphnia, brine shrimps, tinned
peas, etc. Won't do the other fish any harm. Anyway, this'll help clear out the
insides. But if you do see other fish with odd faeces and/or signs of
emaciation, then by all means switch to something anti-parasitic. While
constipation is rather more common in livebearers, parasitic infections do
happen, and are worth bearing in mind when fish start looking off-colour.
Camallanus worms are probably the most commonly found intestinal parasites in
livebearing fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Question re:
anti-parasitic medicated fish food for Platys 03/04/2008
Thanks Neale,
I have been feeding supplementary peas (frozen, slightly cooked, skinned) and
they seem to go over very well. The adult Sunset Platy seems to be back to
normal, and all seem to be doing fine. I appreciate your advice.
<Greetings. It's good to hear everything is working fine! Platies certainly
benefit from a "green" diet, and I think you'll find that over the long term
you'll have Platies that are more active and have brighter colours than would be
otherwise. Thanks for letting me know the good news; it's rare we hear that our
little "patients" have got better! Cheers, Neale.>
Question re: anti-parasitic
medicated fish food for Platys 2/24/08
Hello Crew,
I have spent hours reading the FAQ's and your responses (my favourite being the
one with the lady and her boyfriend having issues with breeding and Don spitting
out his coffee) and have found them entertaining and informative.
Now I have a question, which I hope you will answer. I have a 35 gallon tank,
which has been in operation for about 3 years, so is well-cycled. I do regular
water changes and periodically test the levels of nitrates, ph, and ammonia. All
seem to be consistently within acceptable ranges. This tank is planted with a
large number of artificial (plastic) plants, as well as live plants. There is 1
to 2" of gravel, 3 ornamental logs for hiding places, an undergravel filter, an
outside 3 stage power filter, and a bubble bar. 6 weeks ago, my son helped me by
bringing over his gravel vacuum and vacuuming the gravel in this tank. This
resulted in a 50% water change.
The livestock in this tank includes one elderly Pleco, whom I inherited with the
tank, about 7 inches in length, 2 pearl Danios, 3 blacklight tetras, one of
which is very large (platy sized), 2 Glowlight tetras, and my favourites, 2
adult male platys, and currently only 1 adult female platy. There have been no
new introductions of fish for the past year, although there are about 15
juvenile platys of ages varying from 2 to 5 months. I feed twice a day, with
premium flake food and supplement with blanched romaine lettuce which seems to
go over very well with the platys, old and young.
This past week, I lost an adult female Mickey Mouse Platy. She was one of the
original introductions, so I was sorry to lose her. Her history includes being
placed in a nursery net within the main tank, when I was quite sure she was
about to give birth. She had the gravid spot, and I could see the dark eyes of
the babies. She was very unhappy in the nursery net, so after 4 days with no
results, I released her into the main tank. That was probably a year ago, and
while she never lost the gravid spot, the dark eyes disappeared and there never
were any babies. The one male platy who is always 'on the make' seemed to know
she was of no use to him, and would chase her away.
For several weeks before her demise, she did have what I have seen described on
your site as 'whitish stringy poop'. Up until 2 days before she went, she was
still eating, and swimming normally. During those last 2 days, she was hiding,
and not coming out to eat.
Today I noticed this 'whitish stringy poop' from the second, less aggressive
adult male Sunset Platy.
My question is, should I be concerned about a parasitic infection, and should I
start feeding the anti-parasitic medicated fish food? Is it safe for the
juvenile platys and the rest of the fish? Should I abstain from feeding the
blanched romaine lettuce while feeding the medicated food?
I do realize my current ratio of 2 adult male platys to 1 adult female is not
ideal, but the 2nd male is not particularly amorous, although by their
colouring, I do believe some of the juveniles are his descendants. I also have a
2nd tank, populated with a school of Cardinal Tetras, and one small, skittish
Pleco. My intention is to move some of the juvenile platys to this tank as they
mature.
Thank you, for having such an informative site, and for your anticipated
response to my long-winded email.
Aprilwine
<Anti-parasite food is usually safe for juvenile fish. In this instance I
wouldn't bother unless I saw any other fish producing abnormal faeces. Do also
switch to high-fibre foods for a while -- algae, daphnia, brine shrimps, tinned
peas, etc. Won't do the other fish any harm. Anyway, this'll help clear out the
insides. But if you do see other fish with odd faeces and/or signs of
emaciation, then by all means switch to something anti-parasitic. While
constipation is rather more common in livebearers, parasitic infections do
happen, and are worth bearing in mind when fish start looking off-colour.
Camallanus worms are probably the most commonly found intestinal parasites in
livebearing fish. Cheers, Neale.>
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Re: pH and Bio Wheel filter (parasites are gone) 3/8/07
Hello Bob:
Here is Anna, again :--)
Before I start another topic, let me give you a brief update on my fish health
condition.
On Feb. 24th I moved my fishy crew (tetras, sword, and butterfly - Pleco) to a
hospital tank.
As recommended I let the 10-gallon home tank go "fallow."
With partial daily water changes & bottom vacuuming + some Maracyn 2 (for 5
days) + excellent food + vitamins I was able to bring all hospitalized fish to
stability. The hospital tank reads stable parameters - ammonia = 0, nitrate =
0, pH = 6.8. Visibly fish looks better, eats well and swims all over the place.
None has any white patches, or heavy breathing, or white spots.
<Good>
In between, I also bought Emperor 280 Bio-Wheel filter (as discussed last time)
and installed it on the home tank (along with an "old" filter). For the 1st week
the parameters in the home tank mirrored the ones in the hospital tank (amm.=0,
Nitr.. = 0, pH=6.8).
Few days ago I added additional carbon to the media container in Bio-Wheel
filter. The water got unnaturally crispy, clean, and transparent.
<Good carbon will do this>
Yesterday, I checked the water condition in the display tank and noticed that
pH jumped to the 7.6. I assume, however, that this number could actually
increase further (the water as per API pH kit is very dark blue), because 7.6
is the highest indicator on the API pH kit test.
Today I checked my tap water - pH read 6.8. Then, I
checked my hospital tank, pH read 6.8.
I did ca. 30% water change in the display tank and measured pH an hour later -
I got 7.6 and really dark blue color in a test tube.
I went through other people's responses on your fantastic web site - but could
not find anybody who complained about empty display tank pH problems ;--)
Luckily for me, ammonia and parasite problems are gone... for now ;--)
Do you think that Emperor's carbon activity could distort the pH level in my
10-gallon display tank?
<Yes... can... by removing compounds that hold the pH down...
alkalinity/acidity... buffering works in both directions... "It's" just that
most all are familiar only with "reductive" situations... with pH dropping...>
I was thinking of turning off that filter to see if that raises an issue. is
that a good idea?
<Mmm, not really... I would leave all going... trade out only an ounce or two of
carbon on a regular basis... maybe once a month or so>
I plan to move my fish back to the "home" tank in about a month, but I am afraid
that after months of struggles with ammonia and hard work on parasites and
keeping my precious fish healthy and alive I could lose all of them due to the
pH shock....
<Mmm, not likely... do test the water in a month or so... use some from the main
tank for water changes in the treatment one...>
Would you be able to give me hint(s) on what and why happened? Should I "feed"
the display tank?
<I would maybe "give it a pinch" of food every week or so...>
Should I continue doing partial (weekly) water changes there?
<Yes... with the "new water" for the treatment tank coming from the old one...
once you think communicable problems have lapsed>
Should I take out the carbon?
<I would not. I'd leave it in>
I hope I do not ask too many questions :--)
<Me too>
Indeed, keeping my fish save become my personal crusade :--)
<Ah, good>
Thanks for any insights, Bob.
<Welcome>
And thanks for that great web site - thanks to information you posted I learned
a lot and was able to overcome many "first-tank" owner problems...
Anna
<Outstanding. Excelsior! (Onward and upward). BobF>
Re: Internal parasites (again), FW 3/11/07
Hello crew,
<John>
Surely you are sick of hearing from me by now. I wrote to you some time ago
about a guppy that had an internal parasite problem. I had treated the aquarium
with an anti-parasitic medication, but things went horribly wrong. I suspect an
ingredient in the tablets had wreaked havoc on my tank and killed many of my
Corydoras and other fish.
<Easily done unfortunately... Some "med." ingredients are outright toxic, many
will forestall or kill off nitrification... indirectly stressing to killing
livestock>
The problem eventually resolved but only after I had transferred the fish from
the treated tank into another untreated tank. I had thought the problem gone,
but yesterday I mysteriously lost a cherry barb from the tank that had housed
all the fish at one time. Today, while cleaning this tank, I observed that some
of the other cherry barbs had what appeared to be worms extending from their
anal area. So it looks like the problems are just beginning. I do not know if
this is Camallanus or another type of parasite. They look like red threads (in
some cases they are white) extending 3-4 mm outside the fish. I am not sure how
to treat.
<I am... I would administer Praziquantel (relatively safe, and very effective)
for now... and in a week or so, "Fluke-Tabs" (in case this is actually, or
additionally a crustacean parasite, e.g. Anchorworm... These should do it>
I have a UV sterilizing unit, but I understand this will be ineffective.
<Correct>
Thus, the question, is: do I treat with Levamisole HCL or Praziquantel?
<The latter is my choice here as an anthelminthic/vermifuge>
I believe Praziquantel is ineffective against Camallanus,
<Mmm, generally is efficacious>
but unfortunately I cannot identify the parasite so I am not sure what approach
to take. Any suggestions would be welcome.
<The use of an inexpensive (I have a QX-3 on my desk... simple to use... can be
plugged into a USB port...) microscope with one of the fishs should it
perish...>
The other problem is that to obtain either "pure" Levamisole (as last time the
tablets were a disaster) or Prazi, I have to mail order from the US as it is not
possible to find these medications in Switzerland.
<Ohh... yes... Perhaps... yes, am advocating this... a friend can buy and ship
this cross-border. I understand the intent and spirit of such laws... but there
is more harm from internal combustion/gasoline use... For others...just don't
self-administer such compounds.>
I am also concerned about the length of time it will take for me to locate a
company willing to ship to Europe and the shipping time itself. A preliminary
search has revealed that not many companies are willing to ship these items to
Europe.
<The Net...>
Thanks in advance for any help. I can't believe I'm writing yet again. Ug.
<Sorry to hear/read of your trials... Can be fixed... Bob Fenner>
The Right Medication For the Right Parasite 11/12/06
OK. In a previous email you recommended Clout and Rid-ich for
scratching/flashing fish (no spots). I have Coppersafe already at home, will
this be effective? I don't want to buy another med when I already have one. Is
this one ok? I have Aquarisol also, which is more effective?
Thanks again
< When you ask for a recommendation for a particular problem I always recommend
what has worked best for me for a similar problem. These other medications may
work, it is just that I have not tried them. I would recommend that you try the
Coppersafe at the recommended dosage. If that does not work then do a 50% water
change run carbon in the filter to remove any medication and then try the
Aquarisol. Medicate as per the directions on the bottle. If that doesn't work
then do a 50% water change, replace the carbon in the filter. The problem with
these copper medications is the dosage needed to kill the parasite is very toxic
to the fish too. These parasites are probably protozoans and may also respond to
high temps around 82+ F. The trouble is that Lake Malawian cichlids sometimes
get stressed out and start to bloat up at these high temps, especially the wild
ones.-Chuck>
Re: Jungle Medicated Goldfish Food 5/28/06
Hello, Tom.
<<Greetings, Alfredo.>>
I have given the Jungle Antiparasite food to Mimi and Lucy for three days now
but their feces remain the same (transparent, long segments that seem to be
filled with air). Is it strange that they don't show an improvement?
<<Not really. Note that the directions call for three days on the medicated food
followed by four days of regular food. This regimen is to be repeated over a
four-week period according to the manufacturer. In my case, my Angelfish both
showed an improvement after about one week. In fact, it wasn't until they were
both on "regular" food that their feces started to return to normal. It's still
early yet, Alfredo. >>
Mimi has been having trouble with swimming into deeper levels of the tank again
today. She is mostly staying near the top and seems to be making an effort
balancing herself. Last time this happened she got better with Epsom salts, so I
have given her a half a table spoon( plus another tablespoon that has been in
the tank for 3 days now). Is this the right thing to do with her? Should I be
giving them the Jungle antibacterial medicated food instead?
<<The Epsom salts will help with constipation/gas but won't treat the infection.
My concern here is that in cleaning out their systems, as it were, we're also
purging them of the medication. I'd give the medicine some more time to do its
job.>>
As always, I appreciate your kindness and look forward to your reply.
Thanks, Alfredo
<<Hang in there, my friend. Tom>>
Treating Parasites with Scaleless fishes 7/10/03
I just recently e-mailed you guys (and gals) about the feeding of a
freshwater moray eel (I found this in fact, it is Gymnothorax
tile). Now, I have another problem. My tank came down with
ICH. But, I don't want my moray to die or have a reaction to the
medication I use, so which of the following would be better for me to use: QUICK
Cure, Ingredients: 25% Formaldehyde, 75% Malachite Green or Maracide
(ingredients: Tisaninomethane, Dibromohydroxymercurifluorescein, Aniline green)? Or something else that I don't have?
<Neither are wholly safe for this eel... it would be best to separate the eel
from other fishes with a hospital tank and treat accordingly>
On your website, you said that organic dyes were poisonous to morays, so is
Malachite Green an organic dye?
What about Aniline green? Is that an organic dye too?
<yes to both>
Thanx So much for your help, Adam
<use straight Formalin in a bare-bottomed tank if you must treat the eel.
Best regards, Anthony>
Disinfecting/getting rid of parasites or any other unwanted
micro-organism in/on, being carried by snails w/o killing it
Dear Robert,
Let me just preface this email by saying, "What was originally only suppose
to be a single fish in a bowl of h2o has evolved into a lesson in bio and
environmental chemistry and lengthy searches on the Internet!"
<Same as it ever was...>
Here is my problem; I thought it would be cool to, "create a varied"
ten
gal. tank. for the kids! My tank includes 1 red cap goldfish, 2 fancy
goldfish, and 1 black bubble eyed moor/Aufish. (whatever) 1 aquatic frog, A
Chinese algae eater, 2 live plants and YES 2 snails hopefully NOT the
prolific kind! 1 is very light "orangish" color and the other is a
basic
brownish tan color. Not that it matters, that's not the issue. I now have
fish lice. The red cap is the one I noticed w/the affliction, but as I
already know everything MUST be treated.
<Actually... not the snails or frog. Would remove these while treating the
goldfish, tank>
I will treat my 10 gal w/1 tab
Clout minus the frog, snails, and plants. My plants I will soak in KMnO4( I
got it from the chem. lab on campus) It's hard to get just the right amt.
<Agreed... you'd be better off using Alum (aluminum sulfate)... if you do use
the potassium permanganate as a dip/bath, make this a "light purple"
solution... and only leave the plants in for about a minute>
it's in granule form plus I'm dealing w/city tap h2o that is chlorinated.
So, what is light pink anyway when KMnO4 is purple? Question; How or what
do
I use on my frog and snails to ensure every thing is de-contaminated! I
will
be keeping the frog and snails separate from my tank, fish & plants after
the
clout treatment. Until, I can figure-out what treatment to do w/ the frog
and snails.
Thanks Lori
P.S. What is your thought on a complete water change after treatment?
Overkill?!
<Not a problem if the water has been treated, stored for a while>
FYI; I have a heater for the tank if that matters in this case.
Oh, I can't catch anything SERIOUS from my tank. CAN I?!
<Likely not. Bob Fenner>
Re: uv sterilizer in FW tank
I am intrigued by this question:
<Interesting... that the UV alone improved water quality this much, and
"zapped" the free-swarming stages of the parasites... what about the
resting
stages in the main system?>
What do you mean by "resting stages in the main system?" I
would imagine if
the parasite can remain dormant then this may be happening. But if
this is
what you mean, then who cares? As long as the fish don't get
stressed.
<Mmm, the two organisms you mention, Ichthyophthirius and Amyloodinium have
alternating "active" (seeking as in moving about in the water column,
and feeding on host fishes) and "inactive" as in developmental,
encapsulated (attached to substrate...) phases. The only time an Ultraviolet
Sterilizer can kill these parasites is during their "free-swimming"
stages... and you're right re parasites are dormant, capable of re-emerging to
infest your fishes at later times... Hence, UV's are not really able to
"cure" infestations of ich, velvet, but can aid in their treatment (by
killing free-swimming forms)... And stress can/does exist as an abiding factor
in favor of the parasites. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
re the three sets of factors that determine health/disease. And possibly the UV
FAQs here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Thanks!
Re: uv sterilizer in FW tank
Ok, yeah I got that. Clearly, the UV is helping control the
free-swimmers.
as long as water stays good, hopefully dormant ones will stay
dormant. And
if they swim, I'm hoping UV will help control.
But I too am surprised by the success!
<Me too, on both counts. Bob Fenner>
Re: fish now has fungus or something, how do I treat?
Hello Bob, It's me again.
I stopped treating with medications, turned up the heat to a little over 80
<Should be about 85 F.>
and added a little salt. Not too much because I have Corys and otos.
Everyone I talked to told me not to worry and just leave the tank alone.
Well, Now the Corys are scratching on the bottom sand. Not a lot, just once
in a while. My Gourami and tiger barbs seem fine but today I noticed that
one of the Rosies that had been rubbing now has a little white junk around
the edge of one eye. Fungus I assume. I am obviously new to the hobby so I
looked up the symptoms in my Barron's fish health book and saw that it might
be too late. Here's what I decided to do: with some difficulty, I netted the
fish and gave him a salt water bath at 2 tsp salt to 2 cups water and then
put him in my quarantine tank. He just about croaked in the dip so I made it
a quick 1 or 2 minutes and it took him 5 minutes to swim normally again. I
don't know how to medicate now. I have Melafix which healed my Gouramis fins
nicely in 7 days. I also have Rid Ich (formalin and malachite green),
Aquarisol and Ick Guard II for scaleless fish (37% formalin, Victoria green,
Nitromersol and acriflavine). Are any of these right?
<The Aquarisol is useful here... but do add aeration (the formalin makes it
hard for the fishes to breathe), and be testing for ammonia and nitrite as this
material will kill off nitrifying ("good") microbes along with the
bad>
And should I treat the
main tank too?
<A good idea>
I do a water change once a week so I don't know what I am
doing wrong. I have 13 small fish (including 2 otos) and a Gourami in a 29
gallon with a power filter and aeration. The pH has been a little high (7.8)
and the temperature might fluctuate a few degrees but never below 78. Maybe
overcrowding is the problem. I have been trying to figure this out for weeks
now, can you please help me solve this? I am worried about the Adolfoi
Corys--they cost me some $$ ya know?
<Wouldn't it be great to make time move backward (and forward while we're
wishing), then you could have quarantined all your incoming livestock, likely
have avoided these disease issues. Best to keep studying, stay a given course of
treatment at this point. Bob Fenner>
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