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FAQs about Faviid Coral Disease Treatments
FAQs on Faviid Disease:
Faviid
Disease 1, Faviid Disease
2, Faviid Disease 3,
Faviid Disease 4, Faviid Disease 5, Faviid Disease,
FAQs on Faviid Disease by Category:
Diagnosing,
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Related Articles:
Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara
Mavinkurve,
Faviid
Corals,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease: Stony Coral Disease 1, Stony Coral Disease 2, Stony Coral Disease 3, Stony Coral Disease 4, Stony Coral Disease 5, Stony Coral Disease 6, Stony Coral Disease 7, Stony Coral Disease 8, Stony Coral Disease 9, Stony Coral Disease 10, Stony Coral Disease 11, Stony Coral Disease
12, Stony Coral Disease 13,
Stony Coral Disease 14,
Stony Coral Disease 15, Stony Coral
Disease ,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Treatments
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Type: Brown Jelly Disease, RTN,
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Trumpet/Candy Cane Issues, hlth., data --
09/09/10
Hi,
We have a question about our Trumpet corals and our Candy Canes. The
water parameters are:
Sal 1.024
pH 8.4
NO2 0
NO3 0
<... have to have "some">
NH4 0
Ca 445
Tank 34g
Lights: 2 x 55w pc T5 fluorescent
<Mmm>
Our trumpets were
<When purchased... how long ago?>
a beautiful neon green when purchased from the LFS (almost white). As
soon as they hit our tank, the green became flaky
and they got much darker. I have kept them at the bottom of the tank
since in moderate flow (approx. 24" from lights).
<Likely one issue. Do you access to a PAR meter? Likely there is
insufficient intensity of light... under what regimen were they kept
previously?>
We have been hand feeding
<What foods?>
these guys every other day and while they have grown just a bit, their
color never returned. What is the problem? Should we move them up
closer to the lights? Also I have never seen feeding tentacles come out
on them.
<... can't tell from the information presented>
The second issue (although we are not sure if they are related) is that
our candy canes are doing very poorly. To be honest they never looked
great and we should not have bought them (alot <no such word> of
dead polyps, no growth, no feeders- even after 2 months of coaxing),
but the last time we hand fed them we spotted these very small circular
white worm type things on the top of the heads.
<Likely just part/s of the polyps>
It actually looked like they were going after the brine shrimp we were
placing over the mouths.
When we poked them with a toothpick
<... don't do this>
they tightly retracted. We did a freshwater dip,
<Why?>
and still have seen one worm since then. Now some of the heads have
almost completely bleached and are showing alot of
skeleton. Their coloring has never changed though.
<Might be dyed... artificially>
We do have inverts in the tank as well as other corals that are doing
incredibly well, so we cant figure out what the issue is. These are
also on the sand bed, 24" from the lights and in moderate flow.
Should we move them up as well? Or is this a serious parasite and need
to remove them completely?
Any help is much appreciated,
Thank you!
Courtney & Dan
<... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FaviidDisF4.htm
and the linked files above re the family (Faviidae). Bob Fenner>
About trumpet coral... health, systems - 05/20/2006 Hey
guys, I bought a trumpet coral from my LFS (which I actually work at
now) and it doesn't seem to be doing so hot. It
looks normal during the day, but never really fully
expands. At night it shows it sweeper tentacles and it eats
regularly, but like I said it never fully expands and some of the
polyps have some bone showing through the tissue. Is there
anything I can do to help him out. By the way, my water
tests 0 for Nitrite and Ammonia, Nitrate is less than 5 ppm and pH is
around 8.2-8.3. I dose Kalkwasser and I do regular water
changes to keep up trace elements and add a little purple up also to
help with that. He is under 130 watts of power compacts
about 4 or 5 inches from the surface. Any advice would be
awesome. Thanks guys. <... I would take care re adding
these adjuncts... do so in water to be changed out, that is pre-mixed,
stored... And read here: http://www.google.com/custom?q=trumpet++coral+health&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Favia Brain Problem - 07/04/05 I have a very large Favia
Brain. I have had it for a very long time.
<<Excellent>> Last night I noticed a couple of white,
crusty like spots on it. Tonight there seems to be a few
more. I touched the spots and they are hard. What
is it and what can I do? <<Mmm...hard to say really without
seeing it. May be exposed skeleton from some physical trauma
(added any new fish/inverts?).>> I have metal halides and blue
VHO light system. Everything else seems to be
okay. Please advise ASAP. I added a few drops of Lugol's
solution tonight. <<The iodine can be beneficial as an aid to
healing if this is indeed an injury, but be "very" careful
with the dosage. Optimum water conditions/frequent water
changes are also needed to help avoid secondary bacterial
infections.>> Judy <<Eric R.>>
Trumpet Coral 5/16/05 I have a trumpet coral that is losing
some polyps. It has always made its polyps bigger than the other two
colonies close by, making large bubbles in between the new growth.
Lately, the large bubbles have burst, the skin falls off, and it (the
skin) is making new polyps. I have researched my books, but can't
find anything about it. The coral was fed regularly, and the other two
Caulastrea colonies in the tank are doing fine, and look normal. Any
ideas? Thanks, Mike <Nothing at all to worry about... this is well
reported in aquariums. You can strategically place new substrate so
that the daughter polyps can land on it and attach and grow. Best
Regards. AdamC.>
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Favia sp. Tissue Recession 3.21.05 Hi, <Hello,
Ryan with you> I've had this Favia for at least 6 months
and in the last 4 weeks I've noticed tissue recession along
the lower edges of the skeleton. Since noticing the tissue
recession I have religiously made weekly water changes of 5-7
gallons, changed each lamp in the canopy and routinely added
supplements (Iodide, Reef Complete, Reef Plus, Reef Trace,
Seachem Calcium) and yet, the tissue recedes further. The tissue
isn't receding all the way around the coral, only on the side
nearest the a Sinularia and adjacent to the aquarium's back
wall. <Sand bed creatures can also disturb a Favia that lives
directly on the bed. Have you considered elevating the Favia a
few inches with a few pieces of rubble?> I inherited this 75g
tank from a friend in August '04. At the time, it was powered
by only 120w of mixed fluorescents and had only the Sinularia and
a Lemon peel tang. I've upgraded the canopy's lighting to
252W Fluorescent (96w PC 10K, 96w PC Actinic 03, 30w 20K and 30w
Actinic 03). Filtration is wet/dry filter/sump and an AquaC 120
Skimmer (the skimmer is 2 weeks new and the system was run w/out
a skimmer for at least two months prior to installing the AquaC
120. The tank came with a Sanders round hang on, but I could
never adjust it correctly.). The tank has a thin crushed coral
bed (up to 1" deep, large grain), and the lower portion of
the sumps has Aragonite sand). <Okay> Current residents
are: A small blue tang, one Ocellaris clown (the other went down
the overflow box), 1 cleaner shrimp, several red leg hermits, a
handful of snails (several varieties), Red-Orange w/ black
speckles Fromia, and several small brittle stars (one of which
resides inside the rock the Favia has encrusted). Cnidarians
include: Entacmaea Quad (1), Trachyphyllia (1), Short tentacle
Fungia (1), two rocks encrusted w/ green star polyps (small
polyps), several colonies of Zoos, 1 rock covered w/
Parazoanthus, 6 Ricordea Yuma (5 added to tank on 03/18/05), 1
Ricordea floridae, 2 Rhodactis (added to tank on 03/18/05),
several Discosoma Shrooms and 1 large rock covered with some type
of soft coral. Water parameters are: Ammonia-Low, Nitrite-Low,
Nitrate-Low, Calcium 430, Alk 12. Salinity 1.024-1.025 and PH
8.1-8.2 <What is low? No nitrite/ammonia should be present. If
they are, even in trace amounts, it can be lethal to this type of
animal.> What can I do to save this coral? <Give him a bit
of a lift, and supplement his feeding with a weekly feeding. If
you are having any ammonia/nitrite issues, these should be
corrected ASAP. Good luck! Ryan>
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Favia Tissue Recession pt. 2 ( 3.24.2005) Hello and thank you
for the reply. <No problem! Ryan with you again.> The Favia is
elevated at least 8" to 10" atop LR (has been so since
purchasing it). <Nice> Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate test at 0.
The Favia hasn't extended its tentacles in a long time (I'm up
in early in the mornings before the lights come on and I haven't
seen the tentacles in a long while, I assumed it was getting plenty of
nutrients from the Zooxanthellae) and I've never been able to get a
reaction from food while the lights are on (other than the polyps
mouths opening very slightly). <Certainly a sign of stress. Keep the
current higher in the area to dilute the chemical warfare, if any. Keep
the water changes regular.> Is there any chance that my Sinularia or
any of the polyps are having a chemical war at the Favia's expense?
<Yes, it's a good possibility. Google allelopathy, and read up a
bit. There are some easy ways to make nice! Good luck, Ryan> Thanks,
Ken PS Should I increase wattage closer to 5w/gal? I'm currently @
3.36 on a 24" tall aquarium. <If PC/VHO, yes. Metal Halide
should be penetrating deep enough for a decent amount of usable light.
Thanks, Ryan>
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Caulastrea decline from shipping stress - 2/20/04 howdy,
yesterday I receive my candy cane coral I ordered, only to find it
appears the skeleton is protruding from some/most of the polyps
<from the picture it looks a bit stressed. Acclimate, keep low in
the tank and keep up the water quality. Do you feed? Try to target
feed>... can u please tell me this is normal and it will grow back?
<Likely will grow back in time with maintenance done on your
part.> P.S the polyps have not inflated yet.. is it doomed?
<Always a possibility but these are fairly hardy corals. Place at
the bottom of your tank to help it acclimate to your lighting. Also,
let the company know immediately of the issue upon arrival. Good luck
to you and your coral. ~Paul> P.S.S my camera sucks ;)
New Open Brain Health - 10/27/03 I recently purchased my
first live coral - a brain coral. <Very well> It's
about 3" long and has pretty fluorescent green coloring. It is
very hard and relatively flat. Since I have purchased it
(only about 10 days ago), I have seen pictures of other brain corals
that are "fluffy" and appear to have fluid inside them.
<Yes. Fascinating to watch> My coral has not changed
in ANY way since I purchased it. Is it dead? <Likely not.
Is the color bleached in any way? is the white of the skeleton showing
through? Should be placed low in the tank preferably on a sandy bottom
with some room for expansion> Was it dead when I purchased it? <I
don't know was it? It is not necessarily dead because it is not
expanding> What should I be looking for? <Tentacles
extracted around the inner rim (feeding) and expansion of polyp> I
tried looking for diseases on the net & saw bleaching etc. <On
our site???? We have more than that!!> I just need to
know if it's young & that is why it looks that way and that I
should be patient or it's dead. <Be very patient!! Don't
move it. It could still be in an adjusting phase. Read all that you can
about Trachyphylliidae here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphlliidae.htm>
Please advise. <Knowledge is have the battle. Read through the
various FAQs and articles for Trachyphyllia
-Paul> Thanks so much for your time. JoAnne
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