Fav Pred Pest F

FAQs about Faviid Coral Predators, Pests

FAQs on Faviid Disease: Faviid Disease 1, Faviid Disease 2, Faviid Disease 3, Faviid Disease 4, Faviid Disease 5, Faviid Disease,
FAQs on Faviid Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Treatments

Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Faviid Corals,

Trumpet Coral Problem 10/1/15
Dear Wet Web Media,
<Wendy>
I am having a massive loss of yellow trumpet coral and looking for ideas as to why.
<Will give you the principal sources: predation, environment (ho boy), lack of nutrition, allelopathy....>
All other fish (6 small), various hermit crabs, snails, starfish, anemones (5 keep splitting)
<Mmm; near by?>
and corals
<See you've listed these below; good>
are acting normally.
165 gallon
4 years old system
Aqua C EV skimmer/LEDs/co2 reactor/refugium/wave maker
SG 1.025, 79-81.5 F temp, Alk 10-12, Calcium 435, magnesium 1340, 0 nitrates, 0 phosphates,
<Ooops! Here's at least part of the "issue"; a lack of N, P, K.... READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FavNutrDisF.htm>
20% water changes weekly
<And you dose iodide/ate then?>
The tank has few SPS (birds nest, much monopora), many LPS (frogspawn, plate, chalice, brain), and 2 large soft corals (toadstool leather and Sinularia), a couple mushrooms, Ricordeas and some Zoanthids.
<Again; allelopathy is a concern here as well... some of the more chemically aggressive organisms you have can/do poison other Cnidarians distally at times; esp. ones that are otherwise compromised (starving in this case)>
No new corals have been added, all have been thriving. I do have a bright yellow encrusting sponge that I am trying to keep under control.
<This might be a contributor as well>
The trumpet corals have been growing like crazy. I started out with 2 heads eight years ago and now have 300+ and have traded away 100+.
<Ah, good>
Anyhow, I was gone on vacation (1 week) and think the tank care giver was feeding too much. (pellets and rinsed frozen food) Upon my return phosphates were too high, so immediately I did water changes and added PhosBan media to an extra media reactor I had in my LifeReef sump.
Phosphates were 0 in a few days.
<.... all chemo-photosynthetic life needs measurable soluble HPO4>
Soon after, I lost 2 trumpets (tissue recessed from bottom until dead in few days). I assumed it was a freak out from phosphate elevated.
<Actually; the opposite>
Well, it's been a month and now the trumpet loss is epidemic, as I have 25% of the trumpet heads dead or in recession. I have continued to care for the tank as usual, testing is fine and good water changes. I see no critters on any corals.
What else can I do?
<The I2 mostly; multiple dosed; as you'll find in your reading; removal of the chemical filtrants...>
I am not even sure the loss is due to a fluctuation in phosphate...?
Should I remove all dead heads and recessing heads or wait it out?
<I'd leave all in place>
Should I do a lugos dip on all trumpets colonies?
<Better to add to the system itself>
What other tests can I do?
<How much time do you have to read?>
Why would only the trumpets (which are spread all over the tank, up and down and middle) be receding and dying?
<They're on the "losing" side of allelopathogenic "strength" here, and more susceptible to nutrient deficiency>
Thanks so much! Really, thank you very much for your advice.
Wendy
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re Trumpet Coral Problem, caused by Yellow Encrusting Sponge? 10/6/15
Hi Bob,
<Wend>
Thank you for your opinion on why my trumpet corals are recessing.
Here is some more info:
The anemones are not near the trumpets.
I do add iodide.
I target feed the trumpets and feel they are getting plenty of nutrients or else they would not be multiplying so fast prior to this mass recession.
(2 to 400 heads in 8 years)
The refugium is full of macro algae and I battle hair algae in the overflows.
Allelopathy could be part of the problem.
My latest thought is in relation to the Jaspis serpentina sponge which is slowly taking over my tank. A few weeks ago, I was scraping it off the back glass and trying to dig it away from taking over some Zoanthids and birds nests. Would the small sponge particles within the water column cause the trumpets to die off?
<Yes; could>
Would you recommend removing rocks that have this encrusting yellow sponge on it?
<Yes I would... rinse, chip off; possibly bleach... but at least allow to air dry for a week or more before re-using>
There is a LOT of yellow sponge in my tank. What does happy yellow sponge indicate about the tank?
<Propitious circumstances; at least for it. BobF>
Thank you,
Wendy

Candy cane coral 6/22/12
Hello crew,
So I ordered a shipment of corals off from reefs2go.com and one of them was a frag of candy cane coral. I saw that there was something in the head of the coral and panicked because it was killing the coral (I think) because the skeletal structure was showing were the worm or something was living.
So naturally I took a knife and cut it out and killed the little pest so then there is this huge hole in the polyp the rest of the coral looks fine but these are my first corals so I am wondering... will it recover?
<Yes; should, given good conditions...>
I hope so I am very excited about this coral and I would like to know if it will recover soon.. here is a picture tell me what your thoughts are please
Thank you so much
<I'd do a bit of over-dosing w/ iodide-ate... Have you read on WWM re Caulastrea care? I would. Bob Fenner>

LPS -- 05/28/2010
I don't know if you guys can see the picture I am attaching, if you can could you tell me if this candy coral is healthy
<It's alive. There appears to be some significant recession of the tissue, but it looks generally ok.>
and also help me to identify the small shell looking creatures taking over my rock.
<? I'm not sure I see what you're referring to, sorry.>
I am worried because he still does not put out his feeders I have only had him a couple of weeks. I know he was previously only kept under one NO actinic light at the LFS for quite a while before I bought him. My water parameter's are nitrate 0 nitrite 0 ammonia 0 ph 8.3 sg 1.025 temp 79 calcium 420 DKH 12.6 I also dose with magnesium and iodide when needed. I also do weekly water changes adjusting calcium, DKH, ph, and sg to match my tank. I only use RO/DI water for all purposes. I have these under 124w of t5 HO 96w is 12k and 24w is actinic. My occupants are 1 goby, 1 Percula clown, 1 coral banded shrimp, 1 arrow crab, 5 blue legged hermit crabs, 6 Astrea snails, 2 margarita snails, 2 Nassarius snails, and 1 peppermint shrimp. Everyone seems to get along or at least they have until now, and I do plan on getting rid of the arrow crab as soon as he finishes up the bulk of my Fireworm problem.
<Fireworm problem? Not really any such thing... they're beneficial. I wouldn't try to get rid of them.>
I have not seen any of the crabs or shrimp preying on or bothering this coral and I have looked at all hours of the night. Also I do run a Coralife 65g skimmer on this 29g system and activated carbon. Any of your advice would be much appreciated and used. Thank you again.
<How old is the tank? It's hard to keep corals in small systems (no matter what you do)... especially if they're not very well established.
Best,
Sara M.>
LPS, RMF's usual testy go 5/28/2010
I don't know if you guys can see the picture I am attaching,
<Yes... even though it's much larger than what we ask folks to send along...>
if you can could you tell me if this candy coral is healthy
<Is not... the algae, colour... >
and also help me to identify the small shell looking creatures taking over my rock.
<The little white squiggles? They're Serpulids...>
I am worried because he still does not put out his feeders I have only had him a couple of weeks. I know he was previously only kept under one NO actinic light at the LFS for quite a while before I bought him. My water parameter's are nitrate 0 nitrite 0 ammonia 0 ph 8.3 sg 1.025 temp 79 calcium 420 DKH 12.6
I also dose with magnesium and iodide when needed. I also do weekly water changes adjusting calcium, DKH, ph, and sg to match my tank. I only use RO/DI water for all purposes. I have these under 124w of t5 HO 96w is 12k and 24w is actinic. My occupants are 1 goby, 1 Percula clown, 1 coral banded shrimp, 1 arrow crab, 5 blue legged hermit crabs, 6 Astrea snails, 2 margarita snails, 2 Nassarius snails, and 1 peppermint shrimp. Everyone seems to get along or at least they have until now, and I do plan on getting rid of the arrow crab as soon as he finishes up the bulk of my Fireworm problem.
I have not seen any of the crabs or shrimp preying on or bothering this coral and I have looked at all hours of the night. Also I do run a Coralife 65g skimmer on this 29g system and activated carbon. Any of your advice would be much appreciated and used. Thank you again.
<Have just skipped down. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FaviidDisF3.htm
and the linked files above, and re the Polychaete family mentioned. Use the search tool/indices on WWM ahead of writing us.
Bob Fenner>

Healing Favites 7/25/07 To the truly amazing staff at WetWeb, <I'm good with this. There are some wonderful people here!> I am new to marine systems, <Welcome o the briny world CJ!> with a year old 60 gallon and a copy of Mr. Fenner's book- which drove me to become the marine junkie I now am. <Mmm, yep, been there.> I follow Mr. Fenner's advice religiously, <You are wise. Thought the website is more up to date than the book with some things.> and what I cannot afford, I make. <You are lucky to have these skills.> My tank somehow became a refuge for rescued fish and coral. Sadly, I usually receive neglected animals that this site recommends not be collected or sold. <This is sad.> Although constantly daunted, I am quite proud of my unexpected successes. (Those at WetWeb should be too, as this site is my largest reference!) <Good to hear!> The issue: I recently acquired a Favites in terrible condition. It is eating now, and plumping up a bit- no problems there. <Very good!> However, when I received the Favites, it had receded to approximately one third (flesh covering skeleton), perhaps due to lighting or feeding. (I have many pictures, if you need one). <Pictures usually help.> It must have been this way for some time, <Likely so.> as the exposed skeleton is covered in coralline, and along the periphery of flesh are a handful of what I thought where small feather dusters. Upon concentrated inspection, these dusters' appear to be some type of tubeworms that secrete a 'slime web', and have no head. <Sounds like small worm snails of the family Vermetidae, generally harmless filter feeder casting out their mucus net to collect food.> I would like to know if I should attempt to remove the worms, and if they are harming the Favites (or inhibiting it's healing). <Generally no, these should create a problem, not unless there is a significant amount of mucus that the coral had difficulty removing.> I believe this poor guy might come back, if helped along. <Hopefully!> I appreciate any advice that can be given, and thank you so much for taking the time with this, and every question. --CJ <Thank you for your kind words. You are most welcome! Mich>

Propagation-the hard way 12/27/06 Hi Crew, <Greeting! Mich here.> With all of us writing in our problems, the casual observer may get the idea that this hobby is just a pain. <Hehehehehe! But we all know better!> But there is lots to enjoy and there are many surprises. <This is true, even more true when the surprises are good!> I did not intend to split my candy cane which has two branches. <Hee! Intent and action are not always equivalent.> One branch has one very large polyp and a second branch that used to be one but now is 3 distinct polyps <polyps>. <Growth is good.> I have a glass cover on my tank, the kind that has a plastic hinge in the middle. I removed the hinge and have two glass pieces with a half inch gap between them. Somehow I managed to drop one glass into the tank and it hit the candy cane and I now have two candy canes, one with 3 polyps and no base and the other with a base and one polyp. <Oops, accidental fragging.> I just stuck the branch into a small hole in my rock and all seems well. <Should be, hopefully.> I have a mushroom that I bought about 3 months ago. It is on a two inch rock covered with purple coralline algae. I noticed a small lump at one side of the rock and now it is a nice Zoanthid polyp with a peach colored mouth. <A good surprise! Very nice.> I just discovered a feather duster under the mushroom. It open up to about the size of a shirt button and the mushroom lift up as if to give it some breathing room. The feathers start off as a grey/blue color and at the tips they are yellow. The feathers look like they are v shaped and it looks as if there is a black barb at the end of each yellow end. <It sounds quite beautiful!> I look around quite often and was surprised that I had not noticed it before. <I think you could almost see something new everyday if you are observant enough. It is an awe inspiring hobby! Thank you for sharing some of your delights. It is always nice to hear!> Happy holidays. <Wishing you the best of the season! -Mich>

Caulastrea - potential parasite - 05/22/2006 Hello crew, <Bob... it's... Bob> I wanted to thank everyone for all the help I've received from reading you FAQs. Finally, after 8 months in the hobby, I have a question that I can not find the answer to. I purchased a Caulastrea coral about two weeks ago and the coral is currently in quarantine. <Good> All polyps seem to be doing well except for the one that is shown in the attached photo. <Great pic> Several times in the past two weeks I have noticed a brown substance being expelled from the malformed polyp, which I assumed to be Zooxanthellae. <Mmm, or just waste...> However, a few days ago I noticed what appeared to be a tube was protruding from the mouth of the polyp. Also, although it can't be seen in the photo, I have noticed what appear to be two ~2mm long antennae protruding from the tube. Finally, unlike all other polyps this one has never extended its feeding tentacles at night. Any help you could give me about the nature of this potential parasite and any actions that could be taken to remove it would be much appreciated. Thank, Mark <Might be a boring organism... likely a worm/Polychaete, or possibly just the polyp recovering from collection, shipping trauma... I would continue your observation, finish the quarantine and place this animal. If it is indeed a parasite, space or more deleterious in nature, it will likely perish in time (and not reproduce) in your main system. Bob Fenner>

Candy Cane and Anthelia questions 8/1/04 Hello. I've spent many hours on your site and I must say it's a great resource. <Great to hear!> I have a question about a stony coral I have (candy cane). Last night I put a flashlight on it and noticed that between the stony columns is growing a yellow kind of "fuzz" or something. I am not sure if it is a disease or algae or what. Otherwise the coral looks healthy. Inflated during the day and tentacles out at night for feeding. You can only see this stuff at night when it's slightly deflated. I have attached an image so you can see what I mean. We've had the coral for about 3 months now with no problems. <This is nothing at all to worry about. It is an encrusting sponge and a very common occurrence between the branches of stony corals.> Several other corals in the tank are soft ones. This is the only hard coral. The tank is a 45 gal less than 6 months old, all readings are zero, calcium is at 440 and pH is at 8.2 (we originally started it from cycled water from our aquarist friend back then). I reduced the picture and have a larger one if needed. On another note, the anthelia has been struggling for days. I suspect it's the pH but I am not sure since it's not excessively low. Would it help to raise it and by how much? Also, there is a "life-form" attached near by and I wonder if this is affecting it. At first I thought it was a new colony of anthelia but now I wonder if it is an unrelated different coral. A picture of this is attached as well. Thank you for your help. Daphne <A pH of 8.2 is perfect. What about alkalinity? IMO, Alkalinity is probably the most important parameter to test regularly in a reef tank. The coral in the picture is actually Clavularia. There are several things growing within and around it: Valonia (bubble algae), hair algae, some Caulerpa and some kind of mushroom anemone. Any or all of these things could be affecting the Clavularia. I would try to move the mushroom, test alkalinity and correct with a good quality buffer if necessary and be sure that you have plenty of water movement. This is a tough coral that should recover easily under good conditions. Best Regards. AdamC.>

Gall crab 1/13/04 I have what I believe to be a female gall crab living in my closed brain coral. Should she be removed? Thanks much! Jeff Wagner <they are rarely a problem my friend... the coral will usually grow around them. If your coral exhibits normal polyp cycles and feeding... no worries. Anthony>

Torch or Candy Cane coral Hello Crew, Another day in this excellent hobby. Another day to worry about things huh? Quick question. Do Candy Cane corals recover from damage? I have a cluster with 9 polyps but recently I was on vacation for 3 days and one of my triggers damaged 3 of the polyps (1 now has tissue only in the middle - and the other 2 were partially bitten). Will they grow the stony part back (assuming they will not get damaged again? I made the mistake and left the lights on every day and the trigger, which was left unfed, turned against it. I have previously left my fish unfed for a weekend or so but with no incident. I've had this coral for a year. I am adding iodine/calcium/trace elements as per direction. I can see the tissue on the coral trying to connect but I'm not sure if the stony part will grow back? >>The coral should recover and the stony part may or may not grow back. The important part is to make sure there is no further damage. Are you testing for iodine and calcium and other trace elements? A good rule of thumb is to only add what you can test for because otherwise you can easily be overdosing or just wasting money. I am not a big fan of adding anything other than a two part Ca solution regularly, and with regular water changes your trace element levels should stay at the correct level. Rich>> Keep up the good job - I always consult your site when in doubt. It is an excellent source for reference. Have a nice day.
Dimitri

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