FAQs about Faviid Coral Nutritional Disease
FAQs on Faviid Disease:
Faviid
Disease 1, Faviid Disease
2, Faviid Disease 3,
Faviid Disease 4, Faviid Disease 5, Faviid Disease,
FAQs on Faviid Disease by Category:
Diagnosing,
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest, Treatments
Related Articles:
Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara
Mavinkurve,
Faviid
Corals,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease: Stony Coral Disease 1, Stony Coral Disease 2, Stony Coral Disease 3, Stony Coral Disease 4, Stony Coral Disease 5, Stony Coral Disease 6, Stony Coral Disease 7, Stony Coral Disease 8, Stony Coral Disease 9, Stony Coral Disease 10, Stony Coral Disease 11, Stony Coral Disease
12, Stony Coral Disease 13,
Stony Coral Disease 14,
Stony Coral Disease 15, Stony Coral
Disease ,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy),
Trauma,
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Predatory/Pest,
Treatments
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Type: Brown Jelly Disease, RTN,
|
|
Candy Cane Coral, hlth. - 7/28/08 Hello:
<Hello!> A few months ago a successful hobbyist gave me 2
nice size pieces of healthy Candy Cane Coral and for almost 2
months they were doing fine and then towards the 3rd month they
have lost the green center on the heads. They now are brown the
same color as the white striped rim. <Loss of UV-blocking
pigments, browning because of nitrate, malnutrition likely
causes...> I have a 46 bow tank with a Fluval 404 with a prism
hang on skimmer and 2 power heads. In the tank is about 50lbs of
live rock, about 1/2? of crushed coral on the bottom, several
hermit crabs, several snails of different types, 2 clowns, 1
yellow tang, <Needs a much larger tank> 1 Sally Light Foot
Crab, 2 cleaner shrimp, 2 different pieces of frogs spawn, 1
leather coral, several mushrooms and some polyps. I have had this
tank for 3+ years. I only wish I researched more before getting
involved because I would have chose a different size & style
tank which would have allowed me to have a different filtration
system. But here I am. Any suggestions on where I should begin to
figure out what the problem is? Most of the other items in the
tank have been there for a year or more. <What sort of lights
are you using? Perhaps your bulbs are old? If you aren't
feeding this coral, do check the search feature and our forum at
bb.wetwebmedia.com re information about this.> Regards Tom
From Connecticut <Benjamin>
Re: Candy Cane Coral - 7/28/08 - 7/30/08 Hello
Benjamin: <Hello Tom!> Thank you for commenting.
<You're very welcome!> The lighting is Coralife
36" dual total of 192w. <Good. Do keep these bulbs
fresh> What am I supposed to feed it? <Finely chopped meaty
particulates, when the tentacles are out> And based on the
test kit I always had and still do a nitrate problem. It seems
always to be between 40-80. <We've found your problem>
And I cannot seem to get it lower. <A familiar story...I
understand> The PH always seem fine by the test kit. Now I
have installed a monitor and it goes from 7.70 to 8.00. The
Salinity is 024. Zero nitrite & zero ammonia. I have removed
the sponges from the Fluval 404 filter and the only items in the
canister are activated charcoal in the bottom tray & Phos
Zorb in the top tray which I change both every 4-5 weeks.
<Perhaps switch the carbon more often. Consider adding a DSB
or mayhap one of those nifty acrylic HOB refugia? I'm
assuming you don't have a sump...if you do, perhaps a little
Chaetomorpha and a light? Is there anyway I can save the candy
cane coral? <At the current time, the nitrate won't
necessarily kill the coral, but it will keep it looking pretty
drab (search re: 'browning out'). You might try popping
over to the forum at bb.wetwebmedia.com to talk tank with folks
and see what tricks you might be able to try for lowering the
nitrate...some pretty amazing DIY solutions that are effective on
the cheap.> Thanks, Tom <No problem! Benjamin>
Re: Candy Cane Coral - 7/29/08 8/1/08 Hello
Benjamin: <Hello again, Tom> Thanks again! I did register
on WWM forum & posted what I have asking for any suggestions.
<Wonderful! Glad to hear it> Can you clarify the
abbreviations you used in your response? "Consider adding a
DSB or mayhap one of those nifty acrylic HOB refugia"
<Sure thing: DSB is an abbreviation for deep sand bed, and HOB
is the industry shortcut for 'hang-on-back' equipment
that.. well, hangs on the back of your tank> Yes you assumed
correct I do not have a sump. Should I? Should I consider
investigating changing to a different type of filtration system
which would include removing the Fluval canister? <To do this
you'd need an overflow siphon box, which I am NOT a fan of.
I'd recommend finding ways to work with what you've got
now- unless of course upgrading to a large drilled aquarium is up
your alley...hee!> Regards, Tom <Benjamin>
|
Candy Cane...Nursing Caulastrea Back to Health - 6/19/07 Hi
Crew, <Hello, Mich with you tonight.> I just picked up a candy
cane that I volunteered to nurse back to health. <OK.> I have
some candy canes and each head is nice and plump. They are brown or tan
outside and green or teal inside. <OK.> The one I just got is tan
and green but it is in bad shape. Some heads are just skeletons but
many have some brown but very little. The skeletons are poking through
the 'meat'. It looks very different than mine in that mine are
like a tree with branches upward. This one is almost round. It does
have a main stem but the heads are going out in all directions and it
is actually a ball shape. This makes it impossible to get light to all
heads. I can not figure out how it grew this way. When you look at it
it just looks like a ball of candy cane heads. Any suggestions?
<Yes. You will likely need to hand feed this coral to bring it back.
I would try Mysis shrimp soaked in Selcon. Depending on how badly this
coral has shrunk you may even need to cut up the Mysis into very tiny
pieces. This can be a very tedious job, typically requiring tweezers,
keeping thieves away (i.e. shrimp, crabs, fish) and stopping all water
movement in the tank for an hour or more so the polyp has a chance to
engulf its food. When done daily or multiple time a day, you often get
quick results. Lighting alone probably won't bring this coral back,
regardless of its shape. That being said you could always frag it. It
is quite simple to do, particularly with corals of this type. It is
often easy enough to break it by hand if there is enough room to get
your fingers in there. But right now, I think I would keep this coral
in one piece and move it to a place where you will be able to access it
easily and keep food in it's mouths.> Thanks <Welcome!
Mich>
Re: Candy Cane...Nursing Caulastrea Back to
Health 7/28/07 Hi Crew, <Greetings Mich here again.>
Regarding my sick Caulastrea. It has improved a little but I have not
been able to feed it. I add Selcon to the water but since I have not
seen it send out any tentacles I have not been able to feed it. <You
do not and should not wait for feeder tentacles. You need to place very
tiny pieces (size of a pin head) of food near/in its mouth. (The mouth
is the small circle in the center of the polyp.) Cyclop-eeze works well
or very tiny pieces of Mysis. It may take several tries and a lot of
patience before the mouth swells and opens, but with time it should. If
these Caulastrea were in as poor condition as you say you may not see
tentacles for quite some time.> I am practicing the feeding by
feeding my others that have their tentacles extended which is something
I never tried before. Is there any way to get it to extend its
tentacles. <Get the food into its mouth first. This is what's
most important. Right now you are giving a baby a spoon and food and
wonder why the infant isn't feeding itself.... Neither the baby nor
this coral has the capacity at this point. You need to put the food
near/in the coral's mouth.> I check most nights after the lights
are out and so far no luck. My blue Caulastrea seems to have a few
heads with the tentacles out even after the lights come on in the
morning. But the sick one is not cooperating. <It's not
cooperating because it's incapacitated. Tiny foods, near the
mouth... as described below... tweezers, no circulation, multiple times
a day. You may want to position these corals so the mouth is facing
upward so you don't have to fight gravity as well.> Thanks
<Welcome! Mich>
|
|