FAQs about Yellow-Eye, Kole Tangs,
Environmental Disease
Related Articles:
Kole Tangs,
Ctenochaetus,
FAQs on Kole Tang Disease:
Kole Disease 1,
Kole Disease 2,
Kole Disease 3,
Kole Disease 4,
FAQs on Kole Tang Disease by Category:
Diagnosis,
Nutritional,
Social,
Trauma,
Pathogenic
(plus see
Tangs/Rabbitfishes &Crypt),
Genetic,
Treatments
Related FAQs:
Kole Tangs 1,
Kole Tangs 2, &
Kole Identification, Kole Behavior,
Kole Compatibility,
Kole Selection,
Kole Systems,
Kole Feeding,
Kole Reproduction, &
Ctenochaetus Tangs 1,
Ctenochaetus Tangs 2, &
Ctenochaetus Identification,
Ctenochaetus Behavior,
Ctenochaetus Compatibility,
Ctenochaetus Selection,
Ctenochaetus Systems,
Ctenochaetus Feeding,
Ctenochaetus Disease,
Ctenochaetus Reproduction, &
Surgeons
In General,
Tang ID,
Selection,
Tang Behavior,
Compatibility, Systems,
Feeding,
Disease,
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Ich or Velvet? 11/10/13
I have a Kole tang that suddenly is covered in a velvety substance.
I’m assuming it’s marine velvet… but I also thought it could be marine
Ich.
Could you confirm which disease it is for me?
<.... doesn't look like either of these Protozoans to me...
Something "more sinister", like poor water quality issue, perhaps
stinging... What else is in this system? What additives, supplements et
al. are you pouring in? Bob Fenner>
And I believe this guy is probably to far gone.
Friday he seemed fine… today (Sunday) he looks terrible.
Thank you for your help.
Matt Kasperski
Unfortunately, this is the best pic I can get. It does appear more
velvety than sprinkled with ‘salt or sugar’.
I’ve probably just answered my question. But I thank you for your
time.
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Re: Ich or Velvet? 11/10/13
It’s a 6 month old system… (75 gallon).
Other fish are 2 ocellaris clowns, 3 Chromis, 1 melanurus wrasse.
Also 2 Birdsnest corals and a Montipora, cleaner shrimp… assorted snails.
<All these should be okay>
I moved from VA to TX back in June…
The system was set up immediately in June and was ‘seeded’ with a few pieces
of live rock from my old (4 year running) system.
I thought I had Ich in this new setup (even though all fish were quarantined
for 6 weeks in a smaller tank). I have been treating with ‘Kick Ich’
<... here's the problem. Ala pepper sauce. You've been scammed>
for two weeks… (I know, it probably doesn’t work but I was desperate).
Was performing 25% water changes twice a week before a new dose of Kick Ich
was added.
Aside from adding the Kick-Ich, I have added buffer (sodium carbonate)
occasionally to combat low Alk. Regular water changes are performed
every two weeks and I would have assumed water quality was ok.
All the fish look a little ‘off’ today but the Kole tang looked the worst.
All are in hospital tank now… and I was wondering what would be the best
course of treatment.
OH… and how long should I leave the DT fallow? 8 weeks?
<... posted on WWM... I'd look into quinine cpd.s>
I have attached a better pic of the Kole tang in the hospital tank.
<... poisoned by the scam product. Search, read re this on WWM as well.
BobF>
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Kole Tang Behavior 11/10/12
Hello WWM,
<Mike>
I wanted to reach out to see if someone may know what's happening to my
Tang. I have had this tang for about 5 months now and he has seemed
happy, eating, and on occasion would even chase other fish around. About
4 days ago I noticed that the tang suddenly stopped coming out and now
his swimming seems wobbly. I have not seen him eat. All the other fish
in the tank appear fine.
I have not seen him scratching against the rocks/glass, but suspect he
may have a parasite (though I don't know where from as there have not
been recent additions). He comes to my cleaner shrimp and looks like he
wants to get cleaned, but the shrimp does nothing to help and then the
Tang scurries away into his hiding spot in the back of the tank.
I'm getting concerned because I see that he is not swimming more
sluggishly now and not grazing the rocks anymore.
I tested the water and found that I had some ammonia (likely from a
recent accidental overfeeding). I have since did a water change and
stabilized the levels, but the tang still appears unhealthy.
Do you have any ideas/suggestions?
<I'd try covering one end of this tank (outside) w/ a piece of dark
paper.
It may well be that this fish is reacting to its own reflection. Bob
Fenner>
Thanks,
Mike
Re: Kole Tang Behavior 11/11/12
Hey Bob,
<Mike>
Thank you for your advice. The back of the tank is already covered by a
dark paper.
<The side may need to be as well... you can't see the internal
reflection from outside the tank>
He seems to be afraid of me now, I'm not certain why and at least three
times a day he swims up to the cleaner shrimp. I took a look and don't
see anything on the body but his mouth stays open and it he appears to
be breathing more rapidly than normal. I will keep you posted, but if
you have any other ideas let me know.
<Perhaps another purposeful cleaner organism here. BobF>
Mike
Re: Kole Tang Behavior - 12/02/2012
Well the Tang is still alive, though nothing I have tried is helping.
The Tang's abdomen is very inflamed and he keeps opening/closing his
mouth rapidly.
<Bad signs>
Although he is swimming more actively now, he's looking pale and won't
come out of hiding often. If you have any other ideas on what I could do
let me know.
Thanks,
Mike
<Sure. (Re) Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/koledis.htm
and the linked files above re this species and its genus. B>
Re: Kole Tang Behavior 12/9/12
Just an update. Seems that it is some kind of tumor on the
abdomen. She's still swimming around, but I'm guessing her days are
numbered as there has been no improvement in the inflammation. It looks
very similar to this:
http://img.tapatalk.com/48f49385-6f58-9c96.jpg, though without the skin
damage and with a significantly larger inflammation on both sides.
Wondering if I should consider freezing at this stage.
<Mmm, I'd just hold off and wish for the best. Spontaneous remissions do
occur. BobF>
Kole Tang laying with his tail
elevated 3/28/12
Hey, my boyfriend has an aquarium, he's had it about 9 months now.
We recently did a water exchange, 5 gal, we're not sure the
size of the tank, but I think it's 25 gal (he thinks
30, but I doubt it)...
<There are about 231 cubic inches in a gallon... measure, do the
multiplication, division...>
I'm pretty sure that's too small for the fish, we're
working on getting a larger tank, but he's had it and everything
has been fine, until Monday. We did the water exchange Sunday, stirring
up the bottom (it's crushed coral, so that's the only way to
clean it really)
<Mmm, I'd carefully vacuum, not stir...>
he's got a Clown, a Royal Damsel, a Kole Tang,
<Needs more room>
a Cleaner Shrimp, two Leathers (one of which is getting
really large), some Mushrooms (they're starting to kind of
over-populate now),
<These last two are chemically competitive, quite toxic... Read here
re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above>
and a Pencil Urchin, and recently there's been some
temperature fluctuations, I think mostly due to the temp outside and he
lives in an apartment so we don't control the indoor temperature.
It was really too warm recently, so we unplugged the heater
<It's thermostatic, leave plugged in>
and started a fan on the water, that brought the temperature down to
normal, this was all before the water exchange. Fanning the water has
increased the evaporation rate, so he's been adding reverse osmotic
water regularly.
<Good>
The temperature has stabilized since then and we've stopped
fanning the tank. Over the winter he hasn't been doing water
exchanges as regularly as he should, but still at least once a month or
so. We feed the tank once a day with Mysis Shrimp, frozen tropical fish
food ("Life Line" herbivore and carnivore blocks). The tank
also has live rock and a bubbler (which we're going to exchange for
a Hydor circulation and wave pump). I've read on protein skimmers,
we don't have one, would you recommend it?
<Yes I do>
We got a water test the results were: Nitrate: 20ppm, Nitrite 0.5ppm,
<Toxic; needs to be 0.0... search/read re on WWM>
Hardness 300ppm, Alkalinity 300ppm, PH 8.3, Spg 1.026, with temp 78 F.
All the creatures in the tank currently have been together and with his
family for years, they were moved about 7 months ago here, and like I
said, everything up to this point has been great. The Monday after the
water exchange we found the Kole Tang lying on his side on the bottom
of the tank, with his tail elevated. He's usually very active, so
we were obviously concerned. But when my boyfriend was feeding the
fish, he got up and ate with them like usual. He seemed to be lazy in
his swimming, sort of swimming along the bottom and too close to the
rocks, his fins are getting torn now. He stayed swimming until the
light went out then he went to the corner of the tank closest to the
water return and kind of wedged himself in between the rocks and the
tank wall. We thought maybe he was sick or was attacked by the Clown,
so we thought he was hiding for safety. I watched him all day, he
stayed right where he wedged himself, not moving much, and not trying
to get out of where he was wedged. Again we noticed his face was
downward, and his tail was propped up on a rock. You can see the red of
the gills through his skin, but he's always looked that way to me,
his breathing doesn't seem labored at all, he's not got Ich or
Velvet, the other fish are just fine.
<This Tang is the most sensitive organism (in general) here... could
be the NO2, the lack of dissolved oxygen, allelopathy twixt the soft
coral and mushrooms...>
We moved some of the rocks away from him, thinking he might tear
his fins more, then fed the tank and turned the light off as the
aquarium store we called suggested. Moving the rocks, we removed the
one his tail was on, and he was lying almost flat on the bottom. When
we checked he had moved across the tank to the opposite side where the
bubbler is, lying on the bottom, angled against the glass. When we
checked on the tank a little while later, he had moved to the front
corner, still near the water return, this time with his tail propped up
on a rock again. I thought he was using his tail strangely when I saw
him swimming on Monday, if at all, also, this last time we found a
snail on him, but it moved off. His eyes look normal, his color is the
same, getting paler at light's out (which he always does) he looks
like perhaps he needs more food, but he's never really eaten much,
and when he eats the herbivore fish food, he takes a little, then spits
it back out sometimes, then he'll try to eat it again. He keeps
down most of the food, especially the shrimp. He's really sweet and
we love him a lot, any help you can provide would be really good. The
Kole Tang is a full-grown adult, my boyfriend's family has had him
for 4 years, the Clown is also full-grown, and lately seems to be a bit
more aggressive, and puffed up, he swims with his dorsal and his
ventral fins erect. The Royal Damsel is shy because the Clown can get
rough with him, but never with the Tang, the Clown usually seems cowed
by him, but not lately, the Clown also seems to swim more in the open
areas than he used to. I've been reading on your site, and
you're very insightful and helpful, I don't think it's
parasites,
<Me neither... "it" is environmental. As you've
stated, the best route is to get/have a much larger system... protein
skimmer, no nitrite...>
there's no strings coming from him, but it's been only 2 days,
we're doing all we can, mostly worrying and reading lots of
internet info, we know the salinity is a little high, but with our
tester, it tested the same as usual, so we think the fish may be used
to it by now, and don't want to change anything too much with Kole
not well. I thought maybe a freshwater dip would be good, but the store
said not too,
<I agree>
because it could stress him out too much. Could it be that he's
just stressed from all the changes that have happened lately? Or could
it be something worse?
<See above>
He's the largest fish in the tank, and usually the most
active and playful. Oh, usually the Kole swims with his mouth opening
and closing regularly,
<Another good clue... the environment... the possibilities
mentioned; the reading>
but since he's been lying on the bottom, it's been just open or
just closed. I'm sorry. As I was writing this I checked on the Tang
and he was deceased. I guess what I should ask now is should I be
concerned for the other fish? :'(
<I am concerned w/ all here. Bob Fenner>
Yellow eye Kole tang issues Mystery
Malady or Environmental Response (Tang Condition) 11/18/08 Hi
guys, I'm new to your site but been reading on it off and on since
I started my reef tank a year ago <Welcome to the site/hobby! Scott
F. in today.> I have a yellow eye Kole tang that over the past few
days has begun to look like something is taking chunks out of its head.
he had this issue before but it went away so I thought it might just be
from him running into the rocks like he does when I dig around in the
tank. but these, although they look the same, are just getting worse.
he seems to be healthy as far as eating and swimming and being his
normal self. just starting to look like he got dropped into a French
fry fryer!!! <I can make so many jokes here, but I won't,,,>
Its only on his head and no where else. he eats a combination of red
sea veggies, green dried sea weed, marine flakes and formula two marine
pellets with garlic. and is always grazing on the rock, glass and in
the sand. the only thing that seems to of changed is now he wont let
the shrimp clean him. <Hmm...> Any ideas on what may be wrong
with him? If its a parasite or something will it spread to the other
fish in the tank? is house mates include....2 OC clowns, 1 Lawnmower
Blenny, 2 Firefish Gobies, 1 Elegant Foxface, 2 Pajama Cardinals,
normal Blue Leg and Scarlet hermits, snails, Arrow Crab, Skunk Shrimp,
Coral Banded Shrimp and some soft corals. Thanks DJ Hollingsworth
<Well, DJ, it's hard to be 100% certain without pics and some
information on your system parameters, but I'd hazard a guess that
you are talking about "Head and Lateral Line Erosion" (HLLE),
which is theorized to be a response to environmental/nutritional
deficiencies. Generally, this malady is non-lethal, and comes and goes
over time. Tangs and Angelfishes are particularly susceptible.
Typically, it can be put into permanent "remission" with very
high quality diet (seems like you're just about there...Keep up
feeding the marine algae and maybe add some more live rock for the fish
to graze on..They are detritivorous and also like to rasp diatoms from
rocks/glass) and excellent water quality. Step up your water change
regimen and utilize some form of chemical filtration (e.g.; activated
carbon or Poly Filter) to help keep organics to a minimum. With greater
attention to these factors, you should see improvement. Hope this gets
you looking in the right direction. Do read up on HLLE here on the WWM
site! Regards, Scott F.
Cataracts and HLLS???? -- 04/30/07 I have a
110 Gal tank. 100 lbs. live rock, 100 lbs. live sand. I have one
Blue Damsel, one Talbot Damsel, one Blue/Green Chromis, all
healthy. I also have one Yellow Eye Kole Tang, and one Radiant
Wrasse. They have all been through a six week quarantine (the tang
and wrasse at the same time) and after much stress and treatment on
the fish, and myself they appeared to be fungus and ich free. My
wrasse started acting funny the last week or two of quarantine even
though he looked beautiful. I thought it was because the now
healthy tang was becoming territorial and picking on the wrasse.
<Maybe> So in week five I put a small container of new washed
sand in the bottom to give the wrasse somewhere to bury himself for
protection. His damage from the tang healed immediately. After the
six weeks they seemed great so I put them into my display.
Unfortunately under the bright lights of my display tank I can see
two problems. The wrasse has cloudiness in his eyes one worse than
the other no bulging or anything just like a cloudy film. Is this
cataracts and can I treat this. <Is likely
"environmental" in origin... and will go on its own>
He swims around and runs into the rocks and glass when he comes out
and I feel so bad for him. He is not eating that I can see. The
tang appears to have scars on his face like small divots. Could
this be HLLS. <Mmm, maybe... this is a symptom... not an actual
disease... could be resultant simply from stress from the
quarantine...> Not much algae grew in the quarantine tank and he
would not eat any seaweed or algae foods. I tried everything I
could buy that was seaweed or algae, dried, frozen, flakes and
sheets, even with the garlic entice added. I could only get him to
eat omega brine shrimp soaked in Zoe. Now that he is in the main
tank he picks at Ocean Nutrition's Formula Two and eats the
algae off the rocks and glass. Will this help. <Yes> LFS is
no help. I don't want this to get worse and everything I read
on your site says diet, diet, diet. The wrasse and tang had a tough
quarantine I treated them with the following, (not at the same time
and with a few days rest between treatments) Quick cure (Formalin
and Malachite Green), <Toxic... the symptoms above are actually
very likely from this exposure...> Fish Mox, <Amoxicillin for
browsers> Kick Ich, and Rally. <These are scams> Could any
of these treatments be the cause. I'm sorry for the length but
I'm lost and have tried researching your site. Could not get a
decent picture of the wrasse <Keep practicing, reading... the
indices, search tool... BobF> |
Good pic, eh?
|
Kole Tang I recently purchased a Kole Tang (1 week ago), and
it's swimming up and down repeatedly in the same area. It appears
to be "afraid" to eat, and will come out rarely with the
exception of the above described swimming pattern. <<I get the
sense that you did not quarantine this fish. One of the best reasons to
do this is to help the fish get used to the idea of captive living and
your feeding schedule, away from other fish.>> Is there anything
that I can do for the fish? What is causing this behavior?
<<Stress, most likely although most tangs are constant
swimmers... they really like to cover a lot of ground. If it appears
that the fish is doing this in response to its reflection in the glass
[which isn't uncommon] then you might try leaving the tank lights
off for a couple of days to help the tang get used to that other tang
that keeps swimming back and forth with it.>> Will it die?
<<Uhh... that is kind of open-ended... if it doesn't eat,
yes.>> Please Help!! <<Be patient, consider a quarantine
tank for this fish to have some quiet time to itself.>> Sonya
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Some problems Hi Bob Fenner, <<Hi, JasonC here filling
in for Bob while he is off diving in some tropical paradise>> I
have a few problems I cannot find answers for on any website as of yet.
My first problem (oh, alright,.... challenge :) is that I had a Kole
tang (Ole - you might remember him) who was doing great in his hospital
tank. After almost two months in quarantine I moved him to the main
tank - 55gal, 65 lbs. live rock, 35gal. refugium, deep sand bed. I
dipped him for about 5 minutes in Methylene blue, poured the royal blue
water off him, then put him in his new home. For the first few days he
was fine, then a few days later I noticed several scratches on him (he
is the sole occupant of this tank, along with two cleaner shrimp: a
common, and a fire). I watched him for a while, thinking maybe the
shrimp were picking on him too hard, and I noticed that he was swimming
like a crazy man, normal but FAST, FAST! He was swimming like he had
taken some drugs or something. I am assuming the scratches are of his
own doing, bumping into rocks and such, trying to fit into small
places, etc. <<probably a safe assumption>> I checked all
parameters and they are all very good: no nitrate level, no ammonia,
pH=8.2, temp=76, etc. Could he possibly just enjoying more space? He is
pretty scratched up and still swimming really fast. I might mention
that he had only the daylight and a small light above his hospital
tank. The main tank is equipped with 4 - 96W compact fluorescent bulbs.
I took two out - one daylight, one blue, and only put light on him
after he was in the tank for 24 hours. Then I started a light cycle
that increases by 2 hours everyday (started with the lights on for
about 4 hours). Once I get to a 12 hour cycle I will put the other two
bulbs in and do the same thing. Do you think the new, bright lights are
making him crazy? (he eats good, swims good, just fast!) <<hmm,
well, put yourself in the Kole's shoes/fins - would that light
regimen make you nutty? I would get it over with and just go directly
to your intended light cycle - no great benefit to introducing the
light slowly in this fashion.>> (Sorry this is so long) Here is
my next problem: I bought a piece of rock with red algae (Fauchea sp. -
I believe) about 2 months ago. It is in the refugium and was doing good
until about a week ago. It has started to lose its beautiful, red
color. It has begun to turn light pink, and in some places, light
green. Also, the leaves, which normally look fern-like, now look
matted. I have seen ferns and other plants (I am proud to say I have a
HUGE green thumb) became infested with parasites which spin webs and
enclose the leaves. (This is hard to explain, but the appearance is the
same in both cases.) I have also began to add ESV (?) two part buffer
solution to the aquarium since I had a low alkalinity reading a couple
of times. Possibly this is causing the problem? (I do pour the buffer
into a high current area of the sump, no where near the refugium, or
anything living). <<well, can be a number of reasons for the loss
of color - do recall that these are Algae and not plants, while similar
they are also different. My question to you: what is the lighting
regimen in your refugium? You may want to try running your refugium
lights for 24 hours [no dark cycle], if you aren't already. Also,
the ESV B-Ionic [the two part you mentioned, I am guessing] is not
specifically an Alkalinity buffer, but a two part calcium system, of
which one part is an alkalinity buffer. If you are using the B-Ionic to
merely move your alkalinity numbers, you are using it incorrectly. Are
you dosing any other calcium products or Kalkwasser? As for the algae,
they rely mostly on other nutrients unaffected by calcium or
alkalinity.>> The next problem is the red, flatworm infestation,
on which I have gotten lots of info from your website. I am going to
consider getting a psychedelic goby. I do have a rock which is covered
with colonial anemones in the tank. Will this or other anemones harm
the goby? <<most likely not>> Possibly this flatworm
infestation is causing the problem with the red algae? Also, (just one
more also) I read in Julian Sprung's Invertebrate book that some of
these Acoel flatworms are toxic to fish, yet I find no refer to this on
the net. Possibly the Kole tang ate one and now he is having some weird
acid trip? <<considering the sheer number of different types of
flatworms there are, the odds that you have the toxic type are high, so
no, I don't think the Kole ate a magic flatworm. Also [I had to get
in a second on myself], I'd think the only way a flatworm would
compete with any algae would be over common resources/food-types - or
how to say... unless it's an algae-eating flatworm, then they
shouldn't bother each other.>> Please give advice, and thanks
Jana <<you are quite welcome, I hope it helps. J -- >>
Kole Tang sick? Bob, Good Morning again, and Happy Holidays.
A few weeks ago we had discussed a problem with my 55 gallon saltwater
tank being a juvenile Kole tang that died probably due to hypoxia.
Since then I have added 2 more powerheads MJ 1200+900) and introduced
an adult Kole tang had him for 2 weeks now) and was doing fine until
last night or rather this morning. It seems that his skin is peeling
off in a small section behind his head, and his skin looks like it has
some kind of discoloration. I have also noticed some little white dots
on him, but they don't look bumpy at all I thought ick spores(?)
look a little bumpy. <Mmm, trouble... but not necessarily parasitic.
Have you checked water chemistry? ...> Needless to say, the tang
showed no signs of appetite this morning. I am planning to read through
your site's material again, but what would that be? Perhaps it is
stress induced (I am stating this because 2 nights ago I added a
Florida star coral, various Christmas tree worms and a little yellow
Atlantic cowry. The tang sleeps next to the newly added coral. I have
also dipped the tang twice in fresh water since I got him just to be on
the safe side, however I am thinking of placing him in a QT and
treating him with some kind of medication but what?) <I would not
dip this fish any more... and probably not move it... as whatever the
problem is can and should be treated as the whole tank at this
juncture. I would place a cleaner shrimp (maybe a Lysmata or Boxer
shrimp species)... Do read through WWM starting here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm going on to the
articles, FAQs files as they are linked. Bob Fenner> Please
help...Thanks, D.
Re: Kole Tang sick? Water chem. is Amm. 0, Nitrites less than
0.25, <Should be zero...> Nitrates less than 10, PH 8.2 ;
haven't checked Alkalinity lately, but corals/Christmas tree worms
look fine. The weird thing is, I took a look again at the Kole tang and
the spots/discolored areas are gone & he did eat some brine
shrimp/pygmy formula cube. This is the second time he woke up looking
like that. <Which further leads me to point to "water
quality" as a/the root cause here> I forgot to mention that
occasionally he fights with the yellow tang over who will get the
better place to sleep in I have formed 2 mini caves with the rock (40
lbs total in the tank)). <One more would be good> Also, I
didn't mention I have a maroon clown fish that I have dipped
occasionally into fresh water because it looked like it had developed
either ich or had bumpy spores on its body never scratches and eats
ok). Those seem to go away after the fish is dipped in fresh water, but
do come back after a while. Should I treat that fish at least?
<Treat the whole system... with steps to improve water... live
macro-algae, perhaps a sump/refugium with lighting, more live rock,
adding liquid vitamins to the foods, to the tank once a week...> My
LFS recommends organic cure but they did not advocate towards treating
the entire tank. <Don't put this toxic material in your main
tank!> Finally, I have a banded coral shrimp that regularly cleans
the yellow tang, however I didn't have a good experience with
Lysmata/peppermint shrimp in the past (they did prey on my Christmas
tree worms.) <Bizarre... I would try them again. Bob Fenner>
Kole Kwestions! Hi guys, <Hey there!
Scott F. your guy tonight!> I have been browsing your site for
quite some time now. It is great. <Thanks for the kind words!
We're glad that you enjoy it!> I have a question, which I
could not find an answer to anywhere. I have a Kole Tang, which
started getting some strange spots/blemishes/smears of brown color,
which are not protruding or elevated. They look as if someone took
a crayon and drew them on the sides and on the nose underneath one
eye. I thought that they were some kind of physical damage and they
would go away, but recently saw that there are some new ones. They
are in no particular shape or form. He seems to occasionally bounce
off the gravel (scratching as I understand), but does it quite
seldom and has been doing it since I got him about a month ago
without any outbreak. <Hmm...Sounds to me like it could be
either some sort of trauma, as you considered, some type of
harmless pigment migration, or even the beginnings of an
environmentally-caused disorder called Head And Lateral Line
Erosion. Usually, this "disease" can be cleared up by
maintaining excellent water conditions and providing quality food.
In the absence of other signs of disease or discomfort, just
maintain excellent conditions and provide quality food.> My only
other fish is Tomato Clown and he has no signs of these brown
marks. My tank is quite new -- about 4 months. I have a persistent
Brown Slimy algae (sorry I don't know the correct term) which I
can't get rid of -- could that be Tang's problem?
<Probably not> I am doing regular water changes and all
parameters are fine. One thing that concerns me is that he has
never touched Nori that I offer to him, does not accept flakes that
I feed to the Clown, and did not touch broccoli -- all he eats is
green algae of the glass and picks off the rocks (but there is not
much on the rocks as I see it -- tank is new). Could a bad diet be
the cause of the brown spots? <One of my possible theories.
Please avoid terrestrial greens like broccoli, as they are
minimally nutritious for marine fishes, and they can impart
tremendous amounts of undesirable nitrate into the system water.
Ctenochaetus species of tangs, such as your Kole, tend to rasp
diatoms and liberate detritus from substrate and rocks with their
specially-configured mouthparts. They are very adept at this type
of feeding. You could supplement with some fresh macroalgae, such
as Gracilaria, but I have found that they tend not to eat this with
the same enthusiasm as other tank species. I'd avoid
excessively cleaning the substrate and rocks, to give them some
foraging> If yes, how do I get him to take Nori? <Personally,
I have never found these species to be fond of Nori, but it's
worth a shot. You can rubber band it to a rock, or attach it to a
feeding clip> Are there different kinds of Nori? <Well,
yes...> Could he like one type and not the other? <It is
possible> Otherwise he seems active. I am attaching 2 pictures.
Sorry for the long e-mail. Thank you so much! Artemia.
<didn't get the attachments, Artemia, but if he appears
otherwise healthy, I'd just keep an eye on the tang and go from
there. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> |
- Brown Spot - Hi. The spots appear to be
going away slowly BUT there is a new event. Now, at the front
bottom of one side, not far from his gills he has a little tiny
patch of something externally, looks kind of brownish. Very small
right now so it's hard to tell. Let me know if this
"sounds" like something I should watch, like a
fungus....Thanks as always!! <Anything that seems foreign should
be watched - I don't know exactly what this is, but can say
with some certainty that this is not fungus - could be bacterial -
but fungus typically only shows on fish once they are long dead and
forgotten in the corner of the tank.> I tried to catch him to QT
him for a little while and maybe treat him but I can't catch
the little sucker... he is calm but the minute I put a net in
there... he is super freak. <Might need to use two nets - one to
distract and one to scoop.> I stood perfectly still at the tank
with the net submerged for almost an hour hoping he'd get used
to it and I could sneak up on him... didn't work. <Sometimes
is does, sometimes it doesn't.> If this sounds like I should
QT him, any ideas on how the heck to catch him? <Well, for now,
I wouldn't quarantine, I'd just keep an eye on things. AS
far as catching the fish - if you can, try to get a second set of
hands in there and they can help you steer the fish into the net.
If that's not an option, consider draining a portion of your
tank into a trash can - with one of their degrees of freedom taken
away, fish are much less creative at escape and you should be able
to get scoop out the fish. Once caught and placed in the quarantine
tank, you can refill your main tank and call it a day.>
appreciate your advice. Heather <Cheers, J -- > |
|
Ulceration on Tang Hello, <Hi Jim, MacL here tonight
with you> I've got a Kole Tang that has gotten very pale and
has a Brown Spot on his head and near one of it's gills.
Initially, I thought it was just stressed, but after 2 weeks of
observation, I've noticed the spot getting larger, and
beginning to turn red from it scraping on the rocks. <Its hard
to tell from the picture but it looks like its either bumped it and
created an ulcer or it has some type of parasite that is trying to
come through.> Tests show that my water has a PH of 8.0, 0
Ammonia and Nitrites, and 5 ppm on Nitrates, and I keep the
temperature at about 82 degrees. <I'd really like to see you
get the nitrates to zero.> It is eating well, but I would like
to quarantine and medicate to address the problem, only I have no
idea what it could be. <If you can find some medicated food that
might be your best option since we know it is eating. Thinking that
it might be a parasite your best bet for the hospital tank might be
to use copper, as much as I hate using it. You'll also need to
use an antibiotic either in the meds as previously discussed or in
the water. I know some people who have been very successful using
MelaFix although I cannot say that I have personally used it.>
I've attached a photo to show you. Please help if you can.
Thanks. <Jim, your fish is really way too light so obviously way
stressed out. I think you need to do something pretty fast on this.
Please let me know which way you decide to go. MacL> Jim |
Kole Tang! Hi MacL, <Hi Jim, sorry about the delay,
I've been dealing with soccer ARGH lol> I took your advice
with the quarantine tank. <They really do come in handily.>
It didn't take 10 minutes after I put the Kole Tang in and
it's brown color came back. <GREAT! That's a very good
sign.> The only thing that I think affected it's color was
poor water conditions in my primary tank. <Truly that's
usually the reason.> I was going to let my weekly tests dictate
when to change my water. <Either that or set up a more frequent
change schedule.> The tank has been cycled for two months, and I
really haven't changed the water. <Eeek, really just a
series of partial water changes is all that's necessary.
Perhaps 20% every couple of weeks is best.> I've read your
articles about water changes, only to find that my practice
wasn't a good one. <No worries, you are learning still. We
all had to learn.> Anyway, when I changed my water, it was very
yellow, and I noticed the surface of the tank having a haze to it.
<That's generally a sign of ammonia or an algae bloom.> I
moved some powerheads close to the surface so that it would cause a
good amount of waves, but that hasn't cleared things up.
<Your water changes will I'm guessing that it may be related
to protein issues. <Very possible but remember that water
changes will take a lot of that out of the tank.> I had a
Skilter 250 protein skimmer, but even with the recommended
modifications, it doesn't clear up anything. <Anything that
stirs water is good but I think you will find other skimmers make a
huge difference.> After reading some more articles on your site,
I ordered an AquaC Remora skimmer. <Lovely choice, there are
many good ones out there.> However, I will need a biological
filter since I have a fish only tank. <The live rock serves as
your biological filter if you have any live rock in the
tank.????> Will the Skilter's biological abilities be enough
for my 46g bow front? I have a Millennium 2000 that I'm using
for my freshwater tank, but I can easily swap if you think
that's a better approach. I'm really trying to only have
"hang-on" filters. Anyway, please provide any information
on anything I've listed, so I know if I'm heading in the
right direction. <You are right on in your thinking. If you add
the live rock it takes care of the biological aspect of this. Its
really about the "type" of tank you want to have. You
should be proud of yourself, you are really learning quickly and
what you learn are helping others.> Thanks for the help!!!
<Good luck and let me know how it goes!> Learning the Hard
Way <The way nonetheless. RMF> |
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