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FAQs about Tangs of the Genus Naso Environmental Disease

FAQs on Genus Naso Tang Disease: Naso Disease 1, Naso Health 2,
FAQs on Genus Naso Tang Disease by Category: Diagnosis, Nutritional, Social, Trauma, Pathogenic (plus see Tangs/Rabbitfishes & Crypt), Genetic, Treatments

Related Articles: Naso Tangs

Related FAQs: Naso Tangs 1Naso Tangs 2, Naso Tangs 3, Naso ID, Naso Behavior, Naso Compatibility, Naso Selection, Naso Systems, Naso Feeding, Naso Reproduction, Surgeons In General, Tang ID, Selection, Tang Behavior, Compatibility, Systems, Feeding, Disease

All Naso species need a minimum of a six foot long system... High, consistent DO, a dearth of metabolites in their water


Surgeonfishes: Tangs for  Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Naso tang floating at surface after transport and freshwater dip    6/22/17
Hi Bob, I hope you are doing well.
<Ah, thank you Jake>
I am very sorry to bother you with a question but am a bit desperate to save a fish I received today. I picked up a very large male blonde Naso tang (about 11" not including streamers) from a wholesaler today and all seemed well got it back and did a freshwater dip before placing in a customers quarantine system. Normal procedure for freshwater dip that I always do (added airstone, adjusted ph and temp) but as soon as I put him in he started floating upside down at the surface.
<A "usual" behavior for large, moved Tangs... likely just anoxic; low oxygen at work here>
Added him to the tank and is upright but still floating. He has gotten a bit better but is still rising. The reason I'm asking is because this is the second large Naso tang that this has happened to me before and the first one died. Is this osmotic shock and if so what is your suggestive solution?
<These Acanthurids need to be packed in double, tripled bags of good make, in enough water to move about, and in the dark (in a box); and to be processed expediently. A job as a youngster was in the P.I., pushing newly arrived fishes about w/ a wooden dowel. Naso spp. especially were easily lost on receiving>
Again I apologize for messaging, I know you are a busy person and I personally don't prefer random messages on Facebook either but am a bit desperate. I tried W.W.M. As well as Google of course But I did not see anything pertaining to this situation.
Thank you for your time.
<This fish will resolve in time if it began righting itself. Going forward, LARGE acclimation container, LOTS of aeration applied. Bob Fenner>
Re: Naso tang floating at surface after transport and freshwater dip    6/22/17

Excellent, thank you very much for the very quick response and information!
<Glad to share... wishing we were out diving, even spearfishing for large Nasos. Cheers, BobF>
Re: Naso tang floating at surface after transport and freshwater dip    6/22/17

This guy seems just about worthy of that status, thanks again
- Jake

White spots   6/12/12
Hello crew!
I have a Unicorn Tang  that has these white spots on and around it head.
They all most like boney or calcium like protrusions.
I'll included two pictures of it. I've had this fish for about 4-5  years now.
<I see the one pic attached to your next email... these whitish blobs are almost certainly "neuromast destruction"... the mucus filled pit organs of the principal lateralis line of the head... note how they're bilaterally symmetrical... the cause? Appears to be a good bit of blue green algae present (the red and likely the brown clumpy stuff about)
Could you try and give me opinion?  Thanks Jim
<... Search WWM w/ the string "Blue Green Algae Toxicity". You need to improve your overall system and water quality...  Bob Fenner> 

Re: White spots; Naso, HLLE likely     6/12/12
Thanks Bob, I should have mentioned that the tank you see the unicorn in is just one of my quarantine tanks.
<I see... well "something" is irritating the neuromasts of this animal...
The possible list is quite long>
The fish lives in a 150 gallon tank with no algae growing in it.
The tank received a 30 gallon water change every two weeks.
It lives on Ocean Nutrition  mixes flakes along with Nori pieces that I've cut up and mixed in with the flake food.
<I encourage you to change to Spectrum pelleted food... much more nutritious and discrete (easier to get the food into your fishes and not have it spread, dissolve in the water)>
Ocean Nutrition mixed frozen cubes and a piece of broccoli once every two weeks when I service which has been soaked rinsed and kept frozen until installed in the tank when I service that tank.
<I'd skip the broccoli... make a visit to the oriental food store (or eq. part of your food market shelves) and shop for marine algae>
I've thought of what pesticides could be on the broccoli but the fish just love it and that's all we hear is the vitamins that is in broccoli.
Do you think there is any possible cure for the protrusions or will this just stay with him into old age.
<Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/HLLESWCauseF.htm
and the linked files above... again, this "condition/syndrome" is known to be caused by a handful of influences... and cured similarly by fixing them>
I track all my livestock in that tanks I service but of course for this fish I missed putting down the date I installed him into this customers tank.
My guess is somewhere between Jan 2008  and March 2010..So it could be in the tank for about four years. Any idea of the life span of a Unicorn Tang.
<At least ten years>
As always thanks for writing and thanks for running such a great site!
Jim Jesko
<Ah welcome. Bob Fenner>

Vlamingi Tang trouble.....HELP 4/3/11
Ok here goes crew (and thanks before hand).....And it happened as soon as I leave the state for three weeks also
I have the beautiful Unicorn tang (Vlamingi) that was in BAP
<This acronym stands for? Breeder Award Program...?>
reef tank. She has done great in our 165bf up until about two days ago. We always test water (probably too much) and after our very first cycle at set up our water has been great. Sorry I don't have the log book of parameters with me in Arkansas, but Brandon and Steve can verify our water cause I pester the crap out of them and have them always back up my results with their test So, she developed some raised nodule looking spots around her head, mostly between eyes and head. All marks are symmetrical and I have no clue what it is????? We have done a CRAP LOAD of research and can't find an answer so I am turning to you all and hoping for the best pics..........
[image: Name: DSCN1006.jpeg Views: 59 Size: 239.7 KB]
[image: Name: DSCN1012.jpeg Views: 61 Size: 301.2 KB]
<Mmm, where are these images?>
Everything I have been reading seeing points LLE or hole in head?? yet no pictures resemble it AT ALL. I am leaning towards diet and starting vit.sup tonight. She has been a great eater (mostly shark like and eats anything we give her) She gets seaweed, emerald entree, Spirulina, brine, Mysis, carnivore feast, prawn roe, and list goes on and on and on......Steve at BAP says nutrition also. I had my fiancĂ©© test for voltage tonight and I walked her through the whole thing and she found 46.7v in the tank, so I had her go plug by plug until the meter hit 0.0v and there is a little stray voltage from just about everything, but the bad one was one of my Maxi-jet 1200's that run my skimmer. She installed the ground probe and now the tank shows 0.0v but the sump shows 1.3v .
<Mmm, I do hope all electrical devices are wired through a GFCI:
I can live with that until I get home and replace my skimmer. The day before the bumps showed up, my fiancĂ©© told me she was going nuts and changing color a lot like she was getting spooked, my best guess is the powerhead pooped out
that day and then her sensory organs in her head are freaked out.
<May be>
Her favorite cave in the tank is rather large and she fits with no issues, yet after the voltage and bumps she keeps hitting the side of her cave on the way out and she has never done that before?
Anyway, was that enough voltage to cause this issue? Combination of voltage and vitamins? Disease? Any help would be REALLY GREAT
<Systematically unplug all electrical devices, testing for stray voltage... use GFI/s>
on a happy note..mamas Picasso clowns are doing great and are very happy, although the really love daphnia and the prawn roe but show no interest in other foods. Is that enough nutrition for those two love birds (they will be getting the vit.sup too)
pic... [image: Name: Picasso clowns.jpg Views: 60 Size: 75.6 KB]
<... these images did not "come through"... need to be sent as attachments of suitable size or linked to somewhere else on the Net. Bob Fenner>

Re: Vlamingi Tang trouble.....HELP 4/3/11
Thanks again Bob, we have added Spectrum Life pellets to her diet and I will be adding the GFI to all my tank outlets as soon as I get back home. So far after adding the ground probe, she has started eating a little more, but only blood worms (three cubes worth). I know she will start back to her ridiculous eating habits it will just take a few days I guess? I am adding the Brightwell sup. right in my sump so at least I know she is getting what she needs until she pigs out again ;)
<Real good. B>

Plump, puking Naso 03/11/09
Hello Again!
Once again I turn to you for your awesome advice and help. This time though, it's not for me. An acquaintance of mine bought a house two months ago that came with a 150gal reef tank. I got a call last night saying that one of their fish wasn't doing well & that they wanted me to come and take a look so I did.
The tank is stocked with a number of fish, but the one in question is a Naso tang (I think). It shows no outward signs of disease (as far as I can tell) other than what I presume is lethargy - it wasn't really swimming much.
<Unusual for the genus>
They said that it was regurgitating food, and listing to one side
<Bad signs>

- I witnessed neither, but I will say it wasn't the most active fish in the tank. In my opinion, it looked rather plump.
<Also unusual for Nasos>
My question is - do fish puke?
<Mmm, yes... some can. For others this is more difficult...>
If so, is it a sign of disease - overfeeding (which I suspect)?
I know your next comment will be - what are the parameters? I don't know. The previous owner had a service come in to clean & maintain the tank & he left no care instructions for the current owners other than "Call this number for service". Well, $150 a visit in these times is not a luxury these people can afford, so NOTHING has been touched in this tank for 2 months, other than feeding. There are no test kits, no salt, nothing, other than a large canister of Phosban, and a phosphate test kit.
<This product is rarely advisable>

The set up looks good though - RO/DI, Skimmer, calc reactor, UV filtration, refugium. Considering that nothing has been touched in the tank for 2 months it holding up rather well, only a tiny bit of hair algae. I will be there tomorrow to test water, show them how to mix salt, do water changes, regular maintenance, etc., & will write again if things are amiss.
If you could just let me know about the regurgitating I would greatly appreciate it. They were rather concerned & I would like to put them at ease, or if it is a sign of something wrong, be able to get prepared. As usual, thanks for this invaluable service that you provide.
<Can't tell you anything more or different than above, given what you have stated... Maybe this animal is "just stressed" by the prevailing conditions here. Am hopeful that with your care, instructions to the new owners that this system, water quality will be restored... I would give up on the HPO4 chemical filtrant, execute a couple (serially over a few days) of good-sized water changes. And soon. Bob Fenner>

Unknown disease on Naso and Unicorn Tangs 10/25/07 Hello, <Hi there> I have had multiple Unicorn and Naso tangs, both Hawaiian and Blonde, in my 500 gallon aquarium which are dying of an unknown disease. No one in my area can identify the problem. Water quality is excellent. First, they get a white cotton-like grain around the face area. After about a week, the grain opens and flesh is seen. The open wound can grow to be 3" on a 10" Tang. More cotton-like material develops in the open flesh area and the fish stops eating and dies. I know it is not a parasite because copper (Cupramine) is not effective. <Mmm... not really> Is it a fungus? If so, what medication should I use? Please help...I would like to have more of these tangs in the future. Thanks, Jeff <I would take a scraping, look w/o staining under a low-power microscope. I suspect this/these are flukes (monogenetic Trematodes), but could possibly be copepods... treatment is either with a vermifuge (e.g. Praziquantel) or an organophosphate... in the meanwhile, in addition, I would bolster their immune systems with HUFA and vitamin soaking on their algal diets. Bob Fenner>

Re: Unknown disease on Naso and Unicorn Tangs 10/25/07 Hello Bob, <Jeff> Thanks for your quick reply. <Welcome> Which of the 2 remedies are more effective and where can I get either Praziquantel or Organophosphate? <Posted on WWM. BobF> Jeff

Re: Unknown disease on Naso and Unicorn Tangs - 10/30/2007 Hello Mr. Bob Fenner, <Jeff> I have been using PraziPro for 3 days and it seems to be not working. Attached is a picture of the fish and disease. Let me know if I am using the right medication. If I'm not, please guide me in the right direction. Again, thanks for all of your help. Jeff <Mmm, this eruptive condition looks like HLLE... Neuromast destruction. Do you have these fishes under constant copper exposure? Is it possible that there is a vitamin deficiency syndrome here? Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/hllefaqs3.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner, who would still like to see a micrograph... to exclude Hexamita here...>

Re: Unknown disease on Naso and Unicorn Tangs 10/30/07 Hello Rob, <Jeff> thanks for your reply. I know for sure it is not HLLE. I have had the fish for about 2 months and eats a lot of Spirulina. Water quality is good. <Mmm... well, the pattern of involvement closely matches the arrangement of the lateralis system. Again, have these Acanthurids been exposed to copper?> I will treat for Hexamita and hope this is the problem. Thanks, Jeff <Okay. BobF>

Re Unknown disease on Naso and Unicorn Tangs... still not reading, Cu poisoning 10/31/07 Yes, I had Cupramine in the water at .05 ppm. <... Please see WWM re Acanthuroids and copper exposure... This is very likely the root cause of the Neuromast destruction here> Possibly a fungus or Bacterial infection? Furan 2 or Fungus Cure as a medication? <... no, no, and no> Thanks,
<Please... read. Bob Fenner>

Naso needs HELP!!! 7/11/07 Good evening guys! I have a Naso Tang with a problem. About a week ago my husband and I noticed a bump on the Tangs' head. At the time we thought it may be some sort of injury, but now we can tell it is spreading. There are now several bumps which sort of look like cauliflower. I've attached a picture. Sorry it's not a very good one, but it's the best I could manage. Since we thought it might be an injury we've been treating the tank with Mela Fix. <Worse than worthless... deleterious to your overall system> Other than the bumps the fish seems fine. He's eating and is active, no cloudy eyes, etc. This is a 150 gal. fish only tank, no live rock. Along with the Tang we have a Passer Angel, Dog Face Puffer, Fox Face and a few small Damsels. Water parameters are: Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = 20 ppm <Borderline high... I'd be addressing...> 20% water changes weekly to bi-weekly. Any advice you can provide will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kathy <Mmm, appears (and this is only a guess of course) to be some sort of injury-induced growth... I would do nothing other than improve water quality, bolster the fish's immune system with supplemented (vitamin, HUFA...) foods... Bob Fenner>

Naso Tang.. Acclimation.. Environment 2/27/07 Hope you can provide some direction. <Should be no problem.> This is my second attempt at acclimating a Naso. First Naso lasted 5 days (ate Mysis shrimp for 1st 3 days then ate nothing). I prepared to try again. I am waiting to see if the Naso at my LFS will take flake food (something I did not do the first time around). <Flake food alone is not going to do it.> Do you know of any "must-do's" that I should be concerned with to make sure the acclimation process goes smoothly. Specifically around best types of "veggie" foods to start the new Naso off with. I have a 55 gal tank with good water quality with one exception. <Off to a bad start with a 55. Tangs are grazers and constantly swim in search of food. Your tank is much too small for keeping such in a healthy state.> I recently had a nitrate spike (up to 20 PPM) potentially due to over use of phytoplankton. I perform regular (weekly) water changes and have been doing 2 water changes (5 gal each) twice a week since discovering the elevated nitrates. At what level of nitrates should I be concerned with when acclimated a new fish like a Naso Tang. In other words is 20 PPM too much for acclimation? <Tangs enjoy pristine water quality, so, the lower the nitrate level, the better. Do read here and related links for the info you seek. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/naso.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm> Thanks for the advice. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog) GJB

Not quite psychic yet...more info please! (Naso Tang) 7/2/06 Good morning Bob I have a few question. <Actually this is Adam J with you today...hello.> I have a Naso Tang and in the last couple of days have noticed her acting funny. <Not "Ha-Ha" funny I presume.> It's eye's has a cloud coating. <An indication of declining water quality or something environmental here.> It has also started to turn really dark and not moving as much as it did at one time. <Hmm, see above...to help further I need to know more about the system the animal is in, water quality? Tankmates? Diet?> It also developed a purple color and started to bump into things like it can't see. It has stop eating and this morning she had a whole lot of little white spots all over it. <See my above comment/questions and start with some water changes.> what could be going on with it and how can I treat the problem. <See above...Adam J.>

Naso tang sudden death 1/7/06 Aloha WWM Crew,<And a lei for you> I will get straight to the point. I have had a Naso Tang in a 75G FOWLR for about 10 months. The Tang has been healthy up until yesterday when I noticed it would not eat. It actually went over to it's feeding rock where I put the Nori, but would not eat any. The following hours he got progressively worse and died the next day. My water parameters are these: Nitrite-0, PH- 8.6, Nitrate- 40 ppm, Ammonia-0, water temp-81, SG 1.020. Tankmates are 2 yellow tangs and 1 small clown. <SG is a little low John.> Equipment is an Eheim 2213 canister filter, an Aqua Clear 300 power filter, 2 Rio 600 power heads, and an Aquarium Systems skimmer. These water parameters have been stable since I started the tank about 1 year ago (except the nitrates). I noticed two things I think may have contributed to his demise but am puzzled as to why he went so quickly. First: his back fin looked like it had been bitten a few times by a tankmate. Can an aggressive tankmate cause a healthy fish to die that quick? (He hadn't shown any signs of tension before) Second: just before the holidays, I lost my air pump. In the confusion that is Christmas and New Years, I completely forgot to replace the pump. As I was thinking about what to do to remedy my sick Tang, I remembered reading how these fish need a lot of dissolved oxygen. After kicking myself I tried feverishly to fix the torn bellows in my pump but was unsuccessful. So, my question is, wouldn't lack of dissolved oxygen make the fish a little lethargic weeks before he passed? <<James... this is a question... respond. The answer is yes. RMF>> I really appreciate your insight as I am truly puzzled by this "sudden death". <John, first off, your tank isn't large enough for these fish. I suggest at least a 5 to 6 foot long tank. Your present filtering devices are not going to give you the pristine water quality that these fish require (by pristine I don't mean parameters). A sump/wet dry which will provide near saturation levels of O2 is one requirement. A good protein skimmer is a must. The skimmer you are using <my opinion> is really not efficient enough in removing dissolved protein to help in lowering your nitrate level. A vitamin enriched algae diet is another requirement. Please do read articles here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tangs,.htm> Mahalo,<And to you. James (Salty Dog)> John

- Naso Tang Stress - Good evening, <Good morning.> I have read through your site and must say it has helped me very much. I have a question I tried to get an answer to on your site but could not find a specific answer to (if I missed something I am sorry). In my 55 gal reef tank I purchased a Blonde Naso Tang (I plan to move him to a 135 in the next 8 months). When I got him and put him in QT he laid on his side and looked like he was going to die. After a long night with him he seemed to do better, but still looked stressed, also he would not eat and I do not have any brown or red algae in the QT. So I moved him to the ref tank where there is food for him to eat. Before I go any farther my water is all in spec. I am a water microbiologist and take sample to the lab to check everything using UV/ mass spec, HACH tests and AA. <What a luxury!> Ammonia is <0.1ppm, Nitrite 0.02ppm, Nitrate 0.12ppm, SP1.024, Ca 435pm, pH 8.45, Temp 78'F. I can give you ORP, TDS , M Alk and P Alk, MO, and all other trace minerals, metals etc. if you need it or think it will help. <Nah... sounds good so far, certainly have no reason to doubt your measurements.> Water changes are weekly at 10% made with Laboratory grade RO water that has been run through a mixed bed DI unit. I also do a lime water drip I make up in the lab with lab grade (Fisher Scientific) Calcium Hydroxide (1.8gm / gal.). For the first week the Naso hid and only came out when the room was empty, if I peeked in the room I could see him pick at the red algae and brown algae, but if I came in the room he hid. I can see where he picked at the algae in the tank so I am sure he was eating. Now a week later he sits in one part of the tank and just looks at one piece of live rock for hours at a time and won't move or eat. He hovers at a head down position (45' angle) just looking at this one piece of rock. I have tried to feed him algae on a clip, marine flakes, krill, brine shrimp. He won't eat. I am afraid he will starve. <He well may.> His color is light gray with white blotches that come and go or get lighter and darker, but never go away. I check the water for Ick and him, no Ick. The 2 damsels and one coral beauty and one clown are all fine. I don't want the Naso to suffer and want to help him, but I do not know what to do, or if there is something I can do. <Well... it sounds to me like this fish is in extreme stress... and may have been this way before you picked it up. Best I can recommend is to leave the lighting out for a while, make sure it has a place to hide, make certain there isn't stimuli in the tank room that would keep this fish on edge, and let time takes its course. Unfortunately, some fish don't come back from this... but some do... need time to adjust to capture, transport, new water chemistry... is a lot to handle for a simple fish. I wish I could offer you more but really the best you can do is leave the algae on a clip in the tank and leave the fish alone.> Please help I am at a loss. Jim R., M.S. <Good luck. Cheers, J -- >
- Naso Tang Stress, Follow-up -
Thank you for your response, <My pleasure.> This morning I checked on the tang and he or she is found a place deep in the live rock to hide. I can still see it hovering and breathing slowly but it won't come out. I think you are right about the stress. I asked my LFS to order this fish, when it came in they kept it in a bag until I picked it up. I got off work at 5:00pm so I know the fish was in the bag all day. <In the future... let the store un-bag it at let it stay at the store for a while... this transfers the risk onto them, where it should be. They have better means for dealing with their shippers on compromised fish.> I rushed it home and tried to acclimate it to the QT but the poor guy looked like it was going to die. I pumped air in the QT tank all night at a very high level and checked on it every hour. I was surprised to see it alive in the morning, but as I said before it was on it's side and looked hungry. That is why I moved it to the reef tank. The move and my foolish move to the main display may have caused it. I am very sad to think I ordered a perfectly healthy fish only to have it suffer for no reason. <Don't beat yourself up too much... these things happen.> Thank you for all your help, and I hope all goes well with the poor guy. <I hope so too.> P.S. I will take your advice on lighting and lower it for a while. Will this harm my SPS and soft coral it goes on for a week or so? <Yeah... you don't want to go too long... but for at least a couple [2-3] of days.> Also the algae is a green / red algae mix I got at PetSmart, is it OK to feed to him? <Sure. Cheers, J -- >

Naso With Balance Problems >Dear Crew, >>Hello Allyson. You have Marina today, with my greatest apologies, I've just received your message in my inbox today and I sincerely hope it's not too late. >I love my Naso like a child. We've had him a few years and we bought him when he was approximately 6 inches long. We were stupid. It's too big a fish even for our 125 gallon tank. He belongs in the reef. Our water parameters have been stable for several years but tonight I'll check them again. He's just looking out of sorts. He frequently has a little Ick in the mornings and the cleaner shrimps jump on him and it falls off by the end of the day. He's a fussy eater and will only eat Tetra marine flakes and Caulerpa. He eats these like a pig and the little guy is fat as a house. He still eats OK. There was a period a week ago when we skipped a meal for him (were away for 1 meal-we feed him a lot twice each day by hand). The temperature dropped 3 degrees. Our refugium where we raise Caulerpa and other macroalgae smelled bad and we changed most of the water. It smells fine now. I think the Caulerpa looked a bit unstable at the time but it's not sexual. >>If in doubt, prune it back heavily, being CERTAIN to remove by the full holdfasts, not just breaking off 'leaves'. >During that time, for several days, the fish's yellow face turned dark and he did not swim as actively. He barely ate. We raised the temp to 80 and his face got yellower and he swims and eats more. What is most disturbing is that since that time I see that he has trouble keeping himself upright slightly. It's very slight but he'll swim sideways at times and I see he has his alerting colors on (he gets blotches when he's frightened). >>It seems you're taking the best care of him you can, but I believe he's simply outgrown the system and is displaying the stress (you've made no mention of his current dimensions). This could explain the little bit of ich, the stress coloration, and possibly the 'balance' issues (swim bladder, possibly? Fish have no inner ear). He's definitely not growing old, these animals can live 20 years easily. >He just seems a little clumsier. He doesn't swim as fast or as agilely lately. I'm trying to see if it's worsening but it's inconsistent. He doesn't have any skin lesions and the Ick is very slight and barely and occasionally visible. I've tried hospital tanks with him but the conditions are so unstable in such a small tank, he does worse so I've given up trying to treat the Ick. >>Yes, also, treating him a hospital tank will do no good whatsoever if there are still other vertebrates in the system upon which the parasite can find a host. The only way for hospitalization to be effective is for the main display to go fallow for a minimum of 6 weeks, though this often proves not to be long enough. >I've done searches here and on reef central and I have not seen balance problems listed much. The few times it was with new fish and they died soon after developing it. I'm hoping he gets better and it was just a minor trauma/infection. >>You've listed no water parameters other than the temperature drop (amount), so I can't really offer much other than a guess and a mantra - when in doubt, do a water change. This won't help him at all if the problem is simply that he's outgrown this system, but it will if, in spite of the presence of the 'fuge, there is a buildup of nitrate or other chemicals we cannot measure without a full laboratory at our disposal. Even then, you might want to have an idea of what you're testing for. You haven't mentioned how big the fish is now, but Nasos grow rather large. Water changes on a large scale will not hurt, and can both replenish lost compounds as well as remove buildups of others. >We've also been administering Joes Juice to kill Majano so I wonder if that has something neurotoxic. >>Be VERY careful with that stuff! From what I understand they do not list any ingredients (proprietary?), and I've read many posts on reefs.org of folks losing their shrimps after using Joe's Juice. I have no idea of it has any neurological effect, this is such a new product and few are regulated in any manner. If you were my customer I wouldn't have sold you this product, and I would now suggest you stop using it altogether. >Bottom line, what could cause this? A vitamin deficiency (he won't eat garlic, Selcon, or any other flake or food than that Tetra marine stuff)? >>Garlic won't provide vitamins or nutrition to fish (think about it, how often do fish get their nutrition from garlic in the wild?), but it has been proven to have a slight to moderate antibiotic effect. The food he will accept can be soaked in Selcon prior to feeding, but you MUST be persistent. Also, Nasos do like some meaty foods, have you offered him the irresistible krill? Variety, especially with such a fish, is KEY. He is behaving like a pet poodle, and you'll have to stand your ground when it comes to sampling different foodstuffs. These fish can easily go several days without feeding - if he gets hungry enough, he WILL try it (assuming he's not actually ill, which I don't believe is the case at this point). >A transient parasitic infection (maybe the Ick got in his balance system)? >>Doubtful, I've not read of such mild infestations affecting an animal's balance. If this were a problem you'd see flashing and rapid gilling, not just balance problems. >What scares me is that this might be a buildup in the Caulerpa toxins. >>Possibly, but again, I do doubt this. I didn't have a problem feeding C. taxifolia to my Z. flavescens, Z. scopas, or other tangs for several years. >I give him a little bit each day as a treat. He loves it. (Won't eat any kind of Nori, broccoli, spinach, Sprung's sea veggies, lettuce, spinach, bok choy etc. for greens). >>Again, he will if he's hungry enough, and again, offer him some meaty foods. >I decided to do this because this little guy has so few pleasures in our small tank, at least he should have that. What was the toxin in Caulerpa so I can read about it? >>This I cannot answer, try searching Anthony Calfo's writings (this is off the top of my head), assuming a general Google turns up nothing. >Thanks, Allyson >>You're welcome, Allyson. At this point, my honest assessment is that the fish is demonstrating end result of too small a system. I'm curious as to whether or not this animal has grown the tail 'streamers' for which they're noted, if not, this, along with the other symptoms you mention lead me to this initial conclusion. Marina
Naso With Balance Problems - Happy Happy Joy Joy!
>Dear Crew, >>Hello Allyson. >Oh happy day! My fish is slowly recovering with just good conditions!!! >>As nature intended. >We raised the temp 3 degrees because we saw that was the major change associated with his poor health. Immediately he looked happier (I think I mentioned this before). >>Yes, you did. >Last night he greeted me at the door like he used to. His swimming is slowly more agile. He continues to eat like a pig and is as fat as a house. >>This is very good news, and remember my mantra! When in Doubt, Do a Water Change! >Untergasser's chart (a book on fish disease) on swim bladder has in his chart on swim bladder a few differentials. At first all I saw was autopsy and I freaked. >>Yeah, well, there's only one way to get a postmortem. >Now that I look at it more closely, the most likely diagnosis, given the outcome, is that wall of the air bladder was hardened and inflamed (treated by raising the water temp by 3 to 5 degrees for 5 days). Alternative diagnoses are pretty grim. >>For a fish who's been in captivity for several years, yes, this is true. >At this point, there are several references to autopsies. The air bladder filled with purulent, bacteria-filled fluid-there are a few other presentations related to bacteria (refers to bacteria treatment chart). >>And treatment would absolutely require use of a hospital system. This *can* be done, but with a large fish it is not an inexpensive proposition. >Cysts are in the wall of the air bladder. Inclusions in the wall of the air bladder (no treatment possible). Protozoans are in the kidney and bloodstream. I discussed more details on Reefcentral, including a summary of Untergasser's bacterial treatment mash. >>Yes, I've just read it. Know this, you can go ahead and hypo the animal for ich, but as I said before, if you don't remove ALL vertebrate life, the ich will not be gone from that system. It's far better at this point to provide best conditions and nutrition. Know also that garlic is only proved effective as a mild antibiotic, empirical evidence claims appetite stimulation. My assertion is that if a fish is given proper quarters, best water quality and nutrition, nature shall do what she does best and the animal(s) will thrive. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3795821#post3795821 <please hyperlink!> Thanks for your thoughtful response. Please spread the word about this rare phenomenon. Allyson >>Through you, we shall! Thanks for the follow-up, too, Allyson. I felt terrible thinking that your message had been sitting and it might have been too late. I am VERY pleased that your pet is back on the road to recovery and a long life. Marina

Naso tang problems Hello, over the time of taking care of my fish I do a lot of research, reading books and message boards. And I have heard on the message boards from a lot of people that there Naso tangs do perfect for about 6 mos. and then suddenly they wake up and there Nasos are dead, I am one of these people as well. There are no disease signs, there perfect looking, until they croak. After my Naso died I asked my LFS about it, he said for the past year or so Nasos have been doing bad. He told me too about the 6 mos. problem with Nasos. He said he tries making big deals so he doesn't have a dead Naso in his store. Did you ever hear about this? <Mmm, no definite time frame on these sorts of mysterious losses. Most of the Naso lituratus sold do die from being kept in too small a volume, size systems principally (starving is another large source of captive mortality)> I want to try another Naso, is there any other way I can avoid losing another Naso. I think these fish are awesome. BTW my tank is 240 gallons, water quality great. Thanks! <Please see here re selection: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/naso.htm Bob Fenner>

Ill Naso Tang and UV sterilizer Hello Guys, <Hi Scott, Don with you tonight> First of all, you have sold me on the QT and I just purchased one today after reading through the many testimonials on the web site and in light of my sick Naso. I will follow protocol of many other write-ins with a description of set-up and with a few questions. Sorry for the information overload, and thanks for any guidance you can offer to this novice aquarist.   Tank description : 75 gallon, custom sea life wet-dry and protein skimmer. live sand, Rio 2500 powerhead, no U.V sterilizer yet, but am currently shopping for one and open for suggestions in this area. Water parameters: ph- 8.2 ammonia - .40 (?color chart!) nitrite - .25 nitrate - 20 --- I can't seem to affect these parameters, with my biweekly 10% water changes, or even after a 25% change today. any suggestions <If these numbers are accurate, you have something dying/decaying (like food, snail, crab, etc) keeping these high. The ammonia and nitrite need to be 0. Could be the 'dry' part of the wet dry filter. Is your skimmer giving good skimmate, dark color/good quantity, daily? It should. Could your tests be inaccurate? See if you have a local Fish Store or another aquarium friend that can confirm?> I purchased a Naso from an out of town dealer with several specimens - half of which had black powdery spots all over and half of which looked and acted fine. I chose one of the healthy ones and after 5 days, mine is looking the same. He has been pacing constantly from one side of  tank to the other around rockwork for 3 days. I found him lying motionless this morning and thought he was dead. I have set up a 10 gallon quarantine tank ( I know, finally). I gave it a freshwater dip and placed it in QT. <Yes, we should never buy from a tank (or even an apparent 'clean' tank if the store uses a combined water system) that shows any kind of disease. Never, as you now know :(.> prior to reading your website I : set up QT with all new water (oops) and new sponge filter (2nd oops) -- now what?     <Make lots of salt water and aureate the heck out of it. Get ready to use it for  daily (20-50%) water changes. You will need to do this to keep ammonia and nitrite in check> also dosed with 1st dose of copper treatment (now wishing I hadn't)-- stop or go?     <Hmm, yes, for black spot, fresh water dips are highly successful and much less stressful. Initiate water changes and remove/replace sponge from filter. Make sure the fresh water dips are pH, temp adjusted and aerated> Naso is not eating (offered live kelp, and Mysis shrimp among others)-- hasn't eaten in 3 days <Continue offering, siphoning off uneaten excess right away> I also have yellow tang in tank that was successfully treated for pop-eye, but is showing pale coloring around face. is this disease or nutrition deficiency? <I would increase veggie in diet, maybe a supplement by soaking in Selcon if you can find it> I am also concerned about: purchasing an appropriate U.V sterilizer with the correct flow rates-- my water parameters and the ever presence of  am, ni, and na-- <I would read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/UVFAQs.htm and the blue links at the top of the page for more. I found this link by typing 'U.V sterilizer' into the Google search at the bottom of the WetWebMedia.com home page. Try it you'll like it!> my dealer sold me an air pump to match the 10 gallon tank but I'm not sure if it is adequate for this fish-- <I am sure the pump is OK for the QT. A small powerhead is a good idea as well. But let's be frank. The worst news for your fish is that a 75 is possibly (but I don't think so) large enough for a yellow tang. And for the Naso? Forget it as this fish is heading for 18". The Yellow Tang needs 90-120G and the Naso several 100's of gallons. Don>

Naso tang in shock I acclimated my new Naso tang this morning.  Since he has been released into my system he has remained in shock (lying on the bottom, breathing rapidly, moving his side fins and keeping his dorsal fin erect). <Signs of anoxia, a lack of oxygen>   He has moved a few inches here and there but is otherwise looking pretty pathetic.  Is there anything that I can do to help?  Does his actions mean inevitable death? <Add aeration ASAP. An airstone/mechanical diffuser, air intakes on your powerheads...> The other fish that were acclimated were 2 Heniochus, flame hawk, anemone and a coral banded shrimp...all are doing extremely well.  Lights are still off.  Any suggestions or valuable insights? Carrie <Naso genus tangs are active, large animals that require high, consistent levels of dissolved oxygen... and as part of this, plenty of room to swim, have for gaseous exchange. And yes, best to leave the lights off for now. Bob Fenner>

- Shoe-horn Quarantine - Greetings Crew, I really hope you can help me to keep a Naso Tang alive.  I currently have a 3.5" (mouth to tail) Blonde Naso Tang that is frightened of absolutely everything.  His gills and fins begin to flap like a hummingbird's wings any time I get near his tank, turn the lights on or off or anything inside or near his tank moves.  He turns nearly black in color, with white spots.  There are times when gilling is normal and he regains normal coloration but I must remain completely still for several minutes to see this. What really has me concerned is his lack of appetite.  I have had this Naso for three days now and I have still not seen it eat.  This is my third Naso and all three have suffered the same symptom of not eating.  Although the first two Naso Tangs died, I have had very good success with all my other fish so I had hoped I just happened upon two unhealthy fish previously and this one would live a long life.  The only difference with this fish is that it does appear to have eaten at some point before I received it.  The previous two Nasos were very thin (concave, in fact) but this one is more rounded - "full-bodied". This Naso is currently in a 20 gallon QT with a 2" Purple Tang. <You should separate these fish - not a good size for two tangs.> I have not noticed any aggression (they were added at the same time). <Still... to close a quarters.> For the first day I also had a flame angel and a tiny clown goby in this tank as well but I have since moved them to my 55 gallon QT. <I would do this the other way around with the clown and goby in the smaller quarantine and the larger fish in the 55 - even better would be to have the Naso in there by itself.> Ammonia and Nitrite is at 0 PPM, Nitrate = 20 PPM, salinity = 1.023 SG and temp = 79 Degrees F.  I perform ~20% water changes every third day (using water from my 180 gallon main tank).  The tangs showed signs of Cryptocaryon so I medicated with CLOUT for three days, until all white spots were gone.  I am not using copper at this time because I used this on the previous Nasos and thought this might have played a part in their lack of appetite as I have read that some tangs are sensitive to copper. <Perhaps.> I have tried feeding Formula 2, Nori, Spectrum pellets, flake food, chopped silversides (Selcon-soaked), Zooplankton and even brine shrimp (Selcon soaked) but the Naso has shown no interest in any of these.  The purple tang seems to like all of these.  What else could I try? <I'd stick with the algae and other green foods - what you might want to try is thaw out some frozen formula two and then press that into a chunk of live rock and re-freeze. When it's feeding time, thaw out a little bit and place in the tank. This should allow the fish to duplicate its natural feeding behaviour which is picking at algae on rocks. Again, I'd remove the second tang from this tank so there is no competition for this food.> Is there any "irresistible" fish food? <Not that I can think of other than live algae growing on live rock - this is what they eat in the wild.> I QT all new fish for 4 weeks (or 4 weeks after the last signs of ich).  I use the drip method to acclimate fish over about a 45 minute period.  I feed any existing fish in the tank before adding new fish and I leave the lights off for at least four hours after adding new fish to the QT.  There are two cave-shaped pieces of live rock in the QT for hiding.  I try to remain out of sight of the tank except for feeding for the first day or two, until the fish get accustomed to their new surroundings.  What else could I do to make the transition easier for this fish? <Remove that second tang.> What could I possibly do to get the Naso to eat? <Have detailed my ideas... can't think of much else.> Are Naso Tangs of this size just not hardy, do you see any issues with my husbandry or do you think I just had a very bad coincidence (3 very sick Nasos - 1 from my LFS and two from an online store)? <Combination of factors - capture and transport is very stressful, and this usually takes weeks to come down from.> I have considered moving the Purple Tang to the 55 gallon QT but this larger QT contains a 6" Powder Blue Tang, a porcupine puffer, a flame angel, 3 ocellaris clowns, a Longnose B/F, a Royal Gramma, a Lawnmower Blenny and a Clown Goby. <My friend, you have too many fish in this quarantine. You really need to be dealing with and then placing one fish at a time. Additionally, you have too many tangs... you're going to have problems in the long run with this mix.> I think the Purple Tang would probably hold its own with the Powder Blue but the 55 gallon QT is already a bit crowded and I also thought the Naso might be encouraged to eat by watching the Purple Tang. <I think you're overcrowding your quarantine.> What are your thoughts regarding what I should do - move fish? <Slow down - one fish at a time.> different foods? medication? fish shiatsu? buy a larger Naso Tang that is eating at the LFS instead of taking the risk on smaller fish? <None of the above - you need to adjust your behaviours. The fish are just reacting to the situations you are putting them into.> Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, as I do not want to be unintentionally harming this fish or wasting money on a type of fish that is "impossible" to keep. I did not think Naso Tangs were supposed to be delicate fish. <They typically aren't.> Are Blonde Nasos more/less hardy than those that are not from the Red Sea? <Not that I'm aware of.> -- Greg <Cheers, J -- >

Naso Not so Good Hello <Hi, Ryan here> I have a Naso tang (lituratus) with streamers and he is not eating since a couple of days, I have checked water parameters and they are all fine (still did a water change) except the ph that was about 7.8 I raise it to 8.1over a two day period ,the thing is yesterday the fish had ate a little bit not as mush that normally eat!!!!( had not eat for two, tree days before that )and now today he stopped again and I notice that is lips are white (like a fungus or something covering the lips ) and he is staying on the top part of the tank all he other fish are fine and healthy and eating fine .????????? <Hi.  A change in pH from 7.8 to 8.1 can have negative effects on sensitive livestock.  I recommend you start to buffer your pH (sounds like you already are), and add something to stabilize your calcium and alkalinity.  B-Ionic is simple as pie.  As for feeding, I would try and offer some frozen Formula 2 and Nori.  The white lips you are describing is probably a sign of a bacterial infection.  Is this a new fish?  I would take him out, isolate him and treat with a Furazolidone and Nitrofurazone medication, and follow the directions to the T.  Good luck, Ryan> I am starting to freak out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! don't want to loose that fish !!! how many time can they stay without eating ? Would like to have any help or advice you think might help Thanks

Surgeonfishes: Tangs for  Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care
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