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FAQs on Glass Aquarium Repair, Chips/Cracks 3

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Related FAQs: Chips/Cracks 1, Chips/Cracks 2, Chips/Cracks 4, Chips/Cracks 5, Chips/Cracks 6, Chips/Cracks 7, Chips/Cracks 8, Chips/Cracks 9, Chips/Cracks 10, Chips/Cracks 11, & Glass Aquarium Repair 1, Glass Aquarium Repair 2, G lass Aquarium Repair 3, Glass Aquarium Repair 4, Glass Aquarium Repair 5,  & FAQs on Repairing Glass Tank: Scratches/Blemishes, Cross-Braces, Leaks, Whole Panes, Tools: Cutting Glass, Silicone, Moulding/Frames; Techniques; Olde Tank (Slate Bottom, Metal Frame, Pecora...) Repairs, Troubleshooting/Repairs, & Acrylic Aquarium RepairUsed Aquarium Gear

Chipped aquarium, reading    12/21/08
I have a 29g aquarium with a chip (or flake, or shard, whatever). The chip is about 1.5in x 1in, and is located at the edge of one of the long panes of glass, where two panes meet. It is very close to the bottom of the tank, about an inch from the bottom trim (is that better or worse than it being higher?).
<Worse by and large>
It does NOT go all the way through the glass to the &quot;silicon&quot; seal (the sealant is black, is it still silicon?).
At its deepest point (which is the closest point to the end of the pane)
it goes maybe halfway through the 1/4inch glass, but most of the chip is a good deal more superficial. What are my options?
<Mmm, posted. Read here:
the seventh tray down: Aquarium Repairs... Chips/Cracks...>
Can I do some kind of repair without replacing the pane?
<Mmm, not really likely to help structurally, but might be a good idea to reduce the likelihood of folks cutting themselves... Squaring off the area with a bit of new Silicone. IF there is a beginning scoring/fracture, the tank could fail catastrophically. It must need be tested outdoors...>
If I do a repair, can I reasonably trust it or is there a good chance this tank is going to blow up some day?
<Mmm... this degree of trust depends on a few factors that I can't assess w/o at least seeing some good pix... and your setting this tank on a "good" support (flat/planar, level, strong)...>
Another possibility: If this chip is always going to be a major weak point can I just get an inch cut off the front, back, and bottom panes and have a slightly less long tank?
<Interesting possibility... This proposal, task is very hard to accomplish... would require dismantling the tank (cutting out all extant seals) and cutting the glass, re-Siliconing... Much cheaper, faster to just buy a new tank>
If I do that, what do I do about the trim?
<... would have to be cut away... might be able to be recycled/re-used, but if it were me (I'd read where you were referred above), I'd contact the manufacturer re... They'll sell you new>
I know the lid will still fit. I don&#39;t mind the hard work if it saves me a worthwhile amount of money.
<Mmm... it would not me>
If I have to replace the pane I&#39;ll probably just get a new tank and save the good glass from this tank for a DIY project some day.
<Ah, good... now we're getting to the "bottom line" as the saying goes...
the bad pane/s can be made much more strong with new ones Siliconed over them, this tank used as a sump, or turned around with the more opaque, bad side to the back>
Also, I don&#39;t know if this tank is plate or tempered.
<It is plate/float glass... some bottoms are tempered...>
Thank you for any advice you can give me.
<Read on. Bob Fenner>

Chipped Corner  12/3/08
Good day Bob and crew!
<Morning Josh>
Well the time has come to move on upgrading to a larger tank. I bought a 150 gallon oceanic reef ready tank from craigslist after having my apartment inspected for load bearing capacity. The engineer found a load bearing wall that is directly underneath where this beast will go, which was my first concern, but no more. Then, while carrying this tank into my apartment, we whacked the corner on a doorframe and broke off some of the trim, and chipped the corner.
I've attached several photos of the tank and chipped area from several angles.
<Good pix>
It's still kind of hard to see the actual damage without seeing it in person, and some of the pictures make it look a lot worse than it does in person. I will try to describe the damage. The bottom piece of glass has the side pieces attached so as to sit on top of the bottom piece. The damage is more like a shard missing from the back edge of the bottom piece. The shard that came off is missing, but appears to be less than 1/16" thick, and about an inch long.
<This part of the break/damage is of little concern>
No part of the seal appears to have been damaged, and the shard is completely below the seal. The silicone that was holding the trim in place makes it look dirty along the top edge of the seal, that is not the binding silicone but rather the glue for the trim.
<Yes... a good job>
There are still small shard like pieces in there as well.
<These are worrisome... as glass is a super-cooled liquid... not a solid... behaves "oddly" in a few ways (relative to most "common" experience)... My concern is that a small crack here might lead to a split along a long axis on the bottom panel>
Will this chip affect the structural integrity of the tank?
<It might, but...>
It doesn't appear to have caused any structural damage, but I wanted another opinion before I moved forward. I've shown lights through the glass along the direction of the shard and can't see any cracks or running lines inside the glass. It is difficult to more thoroughly inspect this length of glass because the trim is still in place.
<I would leave it as such, and apply an equally thick piece of material along the bottom corner for support here>
All the inside seals still appear perfect, and there are no bubbles in any of the silicone anywhere on the tank. All the seals are original and the tank never leaked before. I also noticed this tank had a slightly thicker glass than an AGA 125 which is the same length.
If I were to set this tank up, should I replace the corner of trim with something so that the corner is sitting on top of something of equal height to the rest of the tank?
<Yes. For sure>
I would fear that having that bit of corner not resting at the same level could potentially increase stress on that area of the tank. The corner that is chipped is the rear left, the same corner as one of the overflows.
<Yes, and this is the principal reason I have for being more upbeat re the tanks continued use>
If I were to set it up, and say it did leak or something down the road, I think I would at least be able to shutoff the pump, and the only water that would continue to leak would be the water which was already in the corner overflow area, and not the whole tank.
<Mmm, again... the worst that could happen would be a large split along the bottom pane... including the area outside the overflow tower>
I guess I am looking for some guidance. This tank was a steal, and I'd hate to have to buy a replacement. Am I able to just silicone this glass in place
to avoid the sharp edges, and move on with setting it up?
<If it were me, mine...>
I know the silicone won't add any structural strength. Of course I fear the worst, but all my visible inspections are telling me its okay.
I have much higher resolution versions of the pictures attached as well if you should need them.
<These images are sufficient. I give you good odds here that this tank (given the frame support repair mentioned, and set upon a planer, level stand/support) will not fail... due to less stress in this corner, which in turn will be due to lower water depth, the tower walls and drilled hole supports. I would test this tank "outdoors", empty first... to assure it won't immediately catastrophically fail... but otherwise likely use it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Chipped Corner  12/3/08
Thank you so much for your response! I had held back on buying a stand and all the rest until I had a little feedback from somebody who has had a little more experience with these things. I had a few quick follow-up questions. What should I use to patch up the corner of the trim? Something that is as hard and sturdy as the trim I assume, but can't think of what would do the trick properly.
<Mmm, more plastic... or something else that is chemically inert... affixed with Silastic>
I've attached another picture in case you don't still have the pics attached from the previous email. The first thing that came to mind is that magic putty (that looks very similar to epoxy I've used to mount rocks together) that Billy Mayes sells on TV...? Maybe even some kind of concrete? Or another plastic epoxy?
<Mmm, better to have a softer plastic... much the same density/hardness as the existing frame... Needs to give a bit. The ideal would be sections of frame... I'd contact Oceanic re... they've sold this to "end users"/consumers in the past>>
I have a running shopping list right now for what I plan on buying as well, and wanted to run it by you guys for input. This will be an sps and clam tank, with limited LPSs. It is a 150 gallon oceanic reef ready, as described below. I have been keeping reef tanks for about 4 years, so I've learned to buy quality the first time around.
1) Neptune AquaController Jr
2) EV-240 protein skimmer with a Mag 18 pump
3) Building a sump/refugium out of an old 55 AGA gallon tank - are these safe to drill on the ends?
<Yes... take your time... See ScottV and friends excellent site, business: Glass-holes.com for great input, tools here>
4) 2x Iwaki WMD30RLT pumps -- still trying to figure out how best to do the return. I have an extra SCWD and was contemplating using a single larger pump running through the SCWD or two lesser pumps running alone. I'm a big fan of wave movement, and if I used two lesser pumps I would use the Hydor rotating deflector on both returns.
<Mmm... as much as I like redundancy re important aspects... I'd go with one good pump here... for this size/type system... Do read through the many FAQs files on Marine Plumbing on WWM... feel free to send in a drawing/schematic of your plans for review/input>
5) Lights: 4x 250w 15k metal halides supplemented with 4x T5 HO actinic 6) Dual heaters - haven't decided on brand yet.
7) 2x two little fishies Phosban reactor 150 - 1 for carbon, and 1 for Phosban powered by aquavia pumps. Would it be better to run these in line from each other, or parallel?
<I'd skip them period>
8) Calcium reactor is down the line - will likely start the tank up without one.
<I wouldn't skip this... put the funds, time for #7 into this from the get-go>
9) JBJ ATO connected to a 20 gallon reservoir Thanks as always for being there as a fantastic resource for all the reef heads out there! Invaluable!
<Glad to share! BobF>

Re: Chipped Corner, Oceanic   12/15/08 Just wanted to follow up about this chipped corner, and the repair on the trim of my Oceanic 150. I contacted the people at Oceanic (Central Aquatics) and explained my situation and that I needed some trim pieces to replace what was broken on this corner. After being passed around the room a few times, I was finally called back by "their boss". He told me that the color trim I had hadn't been made in many years, but that he could replace it with some black trim instead. I said that was no problem, as it would be hidden by the stand anyway. He proceeded to cut two different styles of trim into 90 degree corners and shipped them to me, everything free of charge. Fantastic customer service! These guys stood by their product even though it was used, they don't make that style anymore, and I have no warranty. I will be gluing the pieces on tonight. Thanks, Josh <Thank you for this update Josh. Will post/share. Please do take a few pix, make it known how your repair went. Bob Fenner>

Re: Chipped Corner 01/13/09
Well I am not so sure about moving forward with this tank anymore. I filled it to about 6" shy of the top and let it sit that way for a week before draining it. A close inspection of the damaged area revealed some potentially bad news. A new chip inside the bottom glass has started to grow right along the silicone seal between the bottom pane and the side pane.
It's far enough from the edge that I couldn't get a decent picture, but a flashlight reveals it to the naked eye at the right angle.
It looks like a dent in the bottom pane about 1.5" x .5" long and .3" deep. It wasn't there before filling, and is right where the seal is.
<This is not so problematical... it moving... all at once outside the seal area is>
I fear this tank may be trashed. I am very bummed about this because I got the tank for next to nothing. Now I have everything I need to get started on the build except the lights - and now no tank either. I guess I am going to redirect my savings for the lights towards a new tank and start over saving for the lights.
<Is a good plan>
Would it be worth my time to get a new bottom pane that is drilled and attempt to fix it? Or should I just consider getting a new tank altogether?
<Is worth the adventure IMO... Not easy to do... to cut away the existing Silastic... and really... all panels need to be disassembled, completely cleaned... all re-sealed... You can read re this on WWM, elsewhere... a few dozen hours of labor involved>
Thanks as always,
<Perhaps the existing tank can be sold to someone as a paludarium... snake cage or such... to help defer the cost of the new tank. Bob Fenner>

All-Glass Tank repair question. . . chip on outside corner of large tank 8/18/08 Hi gang, <Hey Chuck.> I'm considering purchase of a large (180 gallon) 6'x24"x24" previously-owned-but-never-used All-Glass reef ready tank. The glass is VERY thick, I think they may use the same thickness as for the Oceanic tanks in this size, but there is a pinky-fingernail sized chip on the exterior right front corner, down pretty low on the tank. I plan to test the tank for watertight integrity -- I'm fairly sure it will pass muster <I assume you have read the FAQs regarding this.> -- but the chip itself is rather sharp. Can you recommend any sort of epoxy or acrylic filler for this sort of repair to make the edge safer and serve as a cosmetic fix as well? <I would just use some silicone to take the edge off this. Many glues can hurt the silicone already holding the tank together.> Thanks in advance for any help on this. . . <Welcome, Scott V.>

Another chipped aquarium question 9/25/08
Good day, ladies and gents. Thanks so much for answering my question...
<My pleasure.>
Over the weekend, I bought a "used tank (tank only) and stand" for $20. The tank was 20 gallons, with a wrought iron stand. Unfortunately, communication between myself and the seller left something to be desired. My rationale for closing the deal anyhow was - even if this was a 10 gallon stand and the aquarium was junk, that it would be worth the $20, because around here a 10 gallon wrought iron stand costs $50 brand new. Indeed, the stand ended up actually being for a 10 gallon tank, with a wooden board supporting the bottom *sigh* but that was fine...I resurrected my 10 gallon tank and it's against the kitchen wall, now that I have a lovely stand for it.
My problem is that upon closer inspection, I realize that the 20 gallon tank has sizable chips. A few little ones, and one BIG one, and they are only on one side. I have a feeling the tank is worthless, unless I fill it up to just underneath the chip, which is almost exactly in the center.
Bob, or whomever may be so kind, could you please take a look at my image and give me a diagnosis? I would appreciate it so much.
<I tend to agree with your suspicion. I would not use this tank, the chip appears quite significant. You could silicone a patch over it, strips three or so inches wide running from top to bottom along both sides of this corner. But, by the time you do all of this it will likely be easier and not cost much more to just buy a new 20 gal.>
Nicole Putnam
<Scott V.>

Re: Another chipped aquarium question 9/26/08
Hi Scott, Thank you so much for replying.
<My pleasure Nicole.>
I actually have a friend with lots of scrap Plexiglas and the right tools, so I might give the patch a shot, if I can convince him to make it for me.
<Plexi is not the right material, it just won't bond well at all. You will need to use actual glass here.>
Just to be clear, do you mean that I would need two strips about 3" wide, running the span of the tank top to bottom...so that if it is 15" top to bottom, that's how tall the strip would have to be?
And would the two patches be touching each other at a vertex? (If that is even the right word?) Sorry to be so dense, I just want to be able to explain to him what is required!
<I get what you are saying and yes.>
I was at the LFS picking up some frozen food, and told them about the chip. The guy said, "oh, just dab some silicone on it, inside and out" but I knew better than to do that.
<This tank may very well work well for some time, but this is a fairly large, significant chip. I just would not trust this tank, it could be dangerous even though such a small volume.>
Thanks again, and have a wonderful weekend - since Friday is just around the corner!
<Heee, I sure will, you do the same!>
<This fix is super conservative, but these things need to be. It is not only the possibility of the tank leaking or breaking, it is a matter of safety here. Scott V.>

Re: Another chipped aquarium question 9/28/08
Hey again Scott,
Thanks for your input.
<Welcome, happy to help.>
I believe I will give this tank to a thrift store, or advertise it in our local classifieds as a free tank for maybe a reptile or turtle. It sounds like the fix is more trouble than it's worth, and not 100% safe.
<Tis a lot of trouble and mess to go through for the value.>
At least I got a nice stand out of the
deal. We always hope we will get the most out of our money, but
sometimes that just doesn't happen!
<It sounds like you did ok.>
Again, my deepest appreciation for all that you do - all of you, every day.
<Thank you very much.>
<Talk soon, Scott V.>

Emergency! chipped corner  9/16/08 Help! My husband was carrying a new toilet through the living room, and he bashed it into the corner of the 130 gallon FOWLR aquarium. <Yeeikes!> It's quite the big chip, but as you can see in the attached pics, it doesn't go through to the seal. <Mmmm> There's about an eighth of an inch of glass around the seal at the deepest part of the chip. The chip is about two inches long, but is pretty superficial at each end. It's the middle (where it's an eighth of an inch away from the seal) that I'm worried about. My husband thinks it's fine, that if it was going to start leaking/gushing water, it would be doing so now. It's not, yet! I'm afraid I'm going to go downstairs tomorrow and find 130 gallons of water on the floor and a bunch of dead animals. Thoughts??? Thanks! Elise <There are cases where the overwhelming prudent thing to do is taking a system down, trying to bolster the strength of a bad break... such is the case here. I am VERY concerned as well... that this chip will lead to catastrophic failure. I would drain the system down a bit for now... and in a day or two, move the life elsewhere, effect a patch on both faces (can be two-three inch wide pieces of glass, but running the total height under/above the frame... Silicone these tightly against the outside, over the break area, abutting each other... turn the tank about (so the repair is toward the back)... and re-fill in a day or two. Bob Fenner>

Re: Emergency! chipped corner  9/17/08 Why wait a day or two? <For curing... RMF>
Re: Emergency! chipped corner  9/17/08
I must apologize, Mr. Fenner, in my frantic haste last night, I wasn't very clear in my second question. You said I should drain the system down a bit for now (alas, I can't, the water wouldn't reach the little box that carries it down to the sump/fuge) and then in a day or two, move the animals and begin the repair. Why wait a day or two to begin the repair? Is catastrophic failure not that imminent? <I am sorry for the lack of clarity. The waiting is for the Silicone to cure once the repair is effected, NOT to begin the draining, moving...> We actually have decided we will replace the tank (just the tank, not the whole system) as there are scratches on the glass, particularly on the back. I was thinking I would move the LR, maybe half the water, and livestock into several large Rubbermaid bins with powerheads while switching out the tanks. We could do a 50% water change in the process. Sound like a plan? <Yes> I thought that if the crack begins to leak before we can get a new tank, we'd begin bucketing the water out into a bin, removing the LR to the bin of extra saltwater we have in the garage, then net the fish into the bin of their own water and put in a power head. I was thinking I could put a couple of fish into the refugium, which can run with the sump separately from the tank. Then we could tend to draining the rest of the tank and procuring a replacement. Sound good? <It does, but I caution you here... this sort of crack can/does result not in "leaking" but breaking entirely, dumping the water out en toto above the crack (which could be entire here), and possible terrible wound to someone if they're in front of the pane if/when it gives> It's been about twelve (sleepless) hours and the damage looks the same. Thanks again for your sage advice Elise <You're welcome Elise. I have "just" seen too many such cracks (with no apparent further cause) lead to sheer breaks of glass... This tank might still be patched as discussed and used as a sump/refugium. Bob Fenner>

Re: Emergency! chipped corner  9/18/09 OK, Mr. Fenner, you've really put the fear of God into me now! <Heeee! Can we settle on the fear of Bob?> I just bought a bunch of large bins, I've already begun removing the water and live rock and located a replacement tank, which we'll try to get set up tonight. Thank you so much, you probably averted a fish tragedy, if not a human one. We just didn't want to believe it was that bad, you know? Thanks again, Elise <Welcome Elise... BobF, who had a small circular/corner crack in a rental property window "just" give way altogether yesterday...> 

Re: Emergency! chipped corner, PROBLEM WITH NEW TANK    9/20/08 You're a prince among men! Um, I don't know when the tank was made. It was sitting in their showroom. Should I call them and ask? Or should I just observe it? Should I be alarmed if it gets bigger? OK, think I've got all my questions out! Elise <Have seen your following email. Will resp. there. B>

Re: Emergency! chipped corner, PROBLEM WITH NEW TANK    9/20/08 Hi Mr. Fenner, <Just Bob please> I know I'm wearing out my welcome, but I do need some guidance. I had filled the tank back up and marked the edge of the bubble with a piece of tape. The bubble has visibly grown, about 1/16th of an inch, from where I marked it with a piece of tape just three hours ago. I took the pictures to the pet store. They were concerned that it's getting bigger. They are trying to set up for a service guy to come to my home with another new tank and do all the work of switching it. They're trying to get the manufacturer to reimburse them and then they're going to call me if/when it's all set up. They told me to drain the system down, which I just did again, to a few inches above the bubble. Should I proceed with letting them switch out the tank? <This is likely best, though unwarranted> Is everyone overreacting here? <Better to be over concerned than not> I'm concerned about my poor, stressed-out livestock. But the fact that the store is concerned enough to go such lengths to get me a new tank makes me think I should just let them do it. Thoughts? Elise <This too shall pass. B>

Cracked tank  9/15/08 I just got a 240 gal. with 7 holes drilled in the back. i hit a door jam carrying it in and it got a diagonal crack in the back glass. It starts about halfway at the bottom and goes to about a foot up to one of the bulkheads. the crack is about 16" long but the glass hasn't shifted and u cant even feel it. i think that a piece of glass or Plexiglas on the inner and outer side will do the trick. i plan on using pieces that cover the full pane so that the patch won't be as obvious. The 7 holes all have bulkheads which i believe will add extra support to the patchwork. i am wondering if glass or Plexiglas would be better how thick and what kind of glues to bind it? any information would be helpful and very much appreciated. THANK YOU <Mmm, due to the nature of this crack... the long pane, diagonal and hole involvement... I would NOT suggest this repair... Perhaps this tank can be "fixed" to be filled part way (maybe half), but I would NOT consider any overlaying to be safe myself. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium repair dilemma  8/19/08 Hi Bob, <Tony> Have a 100 gallon aquarium that spontaneously sprung a leak today. I got home today and found about 30 gallons of water on my living room floor and down in the basement. <Oooh, no fun> After moving the fish to a neighboring 30 gallon aquarium and completely draining and cleaning the big tank out, I found the leak was just some lose sealant between the front and bottom pane. I read through all of your aquarium repair faqs (and learned quite a bit ) and think I can confidently fix this without any problem. <Good> Looking back, I probably should have replaced all of the sealant when the tank was given to me just to be safe, but didn't. <I've said/done this myself a few times... and continue to not re-do!> It was an old in the wall tank that my girlfriend didn't want to deal with anymore. I said I thought it would look nice in my new house and it was suddenly mine. Anyway, now the problem - I also saw a 6" crack in the middle of the bottom glass pane extending from the right side toward the center (that didn't used to be there). It doesn't go all the way through the glass (you can feel it from underneath but not inside the tank). Would it be possible/feasible/advisable to get a pane of glass the same size as the base and seal it to the existing bottom pane under the tank (or inside the tank) since the crack doesn't go all the way through? <Yes> I really didn't want to take the entire thing apart and rebuild it with a new bottom pane if I could avoid it. Thanks, Tony <Do carefully measure the space... get it to fit w/in an eighth of an inch short on all four edges... DO carefully (single edge razor blades) cut out the existing Silastic... GET help putting the new panel in place... SEAL it in with many fine swirls of new Silicone...> P.S. Happy birthday to you. Reading your bio we share the same day! <Thank you. Many co-birthday friends and I celebrate in the Hash House Harriers together... Will include you in my thoughts this upcoming event. Cheers, Bob Fenner (Dogfish)>  

Issue or not? My new 240 has mystery bubble/chip in glass Pics included  8/19/08 Hi crew, So I got this tank setup a couple of weeks ago. I had it built in Early July, picked up on the 10th or so of July. Filled it up on August 6 I believe. There is a photo before where it doesn't show the bubble and now where you can and some close up shots. It is on the inside of the tank as if there was a chip on the side that was not noticed when dry. Now that there is water in it, it has shown up. I can not feel it from the inside of the tank when pressing on the sealant. What should I do? Have you guys seen this before? <The bubbling does show up over time at times... either from forces "pulling" the gas into larger view/size, sometimes from microbial involvement (metabolism). I would do nothing re it. The chip here is worrisome... something struck inward of this panel at an obtuse angle... If you live in an area where the ground shakes, I would take this tank down, Silicone a panel of glass of some size over this area on the outside of the tank, turns this panel to the wall. (Use the other side as the front). Bob Fenner>

Fish Tank Crack or Scratch? (No Pics!) -- 08/02/08 Hi! <<Hello Grace>> I recently got a fish tank that's about fifteen gallons on Craigslist. <<Neat>> When I went to pick it up I looked at it and thought it was fine until I took it home. <<Uh-oh>> The person had filled the bottom with some gravel and when I took the gravel out to clean it, I saw these weird black "scratches" on them. <<Hmm'¦>> The weird thing is when you feel them some are raised bumps and some are dips. I don't know what to make out of the situation! <<Neither do I without some pictures of the tank and the damage>> Could I somehow fix this tank so I can put fish in? <<I have no way of knowing for sure by your description alone, but if the tank bottom is cracked you will not be able to use this tank. Repair 'is' possible but would need to be done carefully by someone familiar with the process and even then is likely more trouble and expense than this tank is worth. My first suggestion is to return the tank for a refund, if possible/practical. Otherwise, you could take it to a good LFS in your area and let them see it first-hand and advise you on its condition and feasibility for repair>> Thank you so much! Grace <<Happy to share. EricR>>

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