Internal chip on glass panel 2/8/10
Hi there,
I'm rebuilding a new tank. Let me explain, I build it initially and it had a leak, I tried to fix it but the leak continued so I tear it apart to be rebuilt (the two side panels were not fully squared).
<Been there, here...>
Yesterday I was checking the fit of every piece and marking the glass which panel is which to get it perfectly squared and while handling one of the front panes it hit the corner in the ground lightly.
<Argghhh>
It made a little chip (max 1,5 cm length x 0,5 cm wide), since it came mostly as a single piece, and since this would be vertically on the outside top corner (not structural) I decided to glue it back in with silicone.
<Should be fine there>
It was all fine but today I saw that on the inside of the panel there is what seems to be an "internal chip". I tried to force the glass
<Careful here>
and it didn't move or run. This particular place would be joined to the side of the tank (the chip will be on the top), and it's smaller than the width of the side panel (10 mm). The tank will also have euro-braces all around the top
(with fronts overlapping the sides).
<Good>
Should I be worried about that?
<In your excellent images... I don't think so>
Is it small enough and secure enough (lateral joint and euro braces) to be OK?
<Yes... and with the location, this size, placement of chip should prove no problem>
I don't want to have to buy another front panel as it is quite expensive here (Brazil) and its a fairly large tank (130x60x55 cm) and the glass stores here are terrible (this is second cut they gave me, the first one was all off-squared and had the wrong
sizes).
Thanks and best regards,
Luiz Borges
<Welcome Luiz. Bob Fenner>

chip in 180g tank -- 01/03/10
I have a chance to purchase a 180 gallon glass tank. the only problem is the tank has a chip in the lower back pane. The chip hasn't affected the silicone sealant and I see no cracks, but I wanted an expert opinion. I figure I could always fill the chip with epoxy. I can get the tank for a screaming deal. I have enclosed pictures, let me know what you think.
<I would at least "run" a strip (two inch) of triple strength (nom. 1/4") glass along the outside edges of both panels (vertically) of the chipped sides... No need to break off frame... just between the upper and lower.
Read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/Tank%20Repair/glasaqcracks4.htm
and the linked files above, until you understand what is suggested here, or write back for more direction.
Bob Fenner>

Chipped Tank Question -- 12/15/09
Hello,
<Hi there Andy>
Thanks for running a very informative site on all aspects of the aquarium hobby. I have read through the FAQ on tank repair, and on chipped tanks. I recently bought a 20 gallon long tank for a great price. On getting the tank home, I noticed a rather large chip on the bottom corner of the aquarium. I filled the aquarium more than ¾ of the way full in the bath tub and left it for 24 hours, no leaks.
<Mmm>
Feeling confident with the tank, I proceeded to set up. The tank is on a metal stand, which is resting on carpet. I used small pieces of 1/4" and 1/8" acrylic underneath the legs of the tank to level it. Currently the tank is almost level, the water level is about 0.5mm higher on one side. After I filled the tank 100% of the way, the next morning, I noticed a miniscule leak on the same corner as the chip.
<Yikes>
In observing the leak for several hours, one drop of water ran about 3 inches down the side of the tank, that is how small the leak is. There is a pinpoint size of silicone that is more reflective than the rest of the silicone, this is the leak.
Draining the tank to less than 3/4s full stops the leak. I drained the tank half way, and applied silicone sealant to the outside corner of the tank, making sure to cover the small leak. I waited 24 hours, refilled the tank, and the leak has stopped.
However, in reading through your page, I'm feeling less and less positive about the tank.
<We share this sensation>
I guess I have no issues using the tank if another leak springs up, I just don't want a catastrophic failure. I've included a diagram of the chip. The chip itself is clean, there is no white glass, and the chipped surface itself is smooth, nor are there any visible cracks. The back pane of glass is at full thickness where it meets the side pane, and then gradually gets thinner towards the outside edge.
Thanks,
Andrew
<If it were me/mine, I'd Silicone a strip of glass (maybe two inches wide) along both the back and side where the chip is, at least over the area of the chip itself, if not all the way to the top/bottom. This will give strength and keep folks from cutting themselves on the sharp edge. Bob Fenner>

Freecycle 20 Gallon Tank Question, Cracked glass tank repair and ADF sys. f's -- 12/04/09
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have been reading through your site for a few hours since I found it on Google and thought I would try to contact you directly, as I am unsure how to proceed.
<All right>
I have a 20 gallon long tank (30 1/4" x 12 3/4" x 12 1/4" measured over plastic trim) that I received earlier today using the Freecycle in my area. I was excited when I realized what it was, as I have two African clawed frogs, and that is the exact tank recommend for them both; however there is a problem with one of the corners.
<I see this>
It has a chipped corner, and has a single crack coming from it, please see the included image (I have shown two angles of the problem). There are no other cracks or chips from the main area, or anywhere else on the tank for that matter. The single crack/chip is about 1 1/2" in length from the outside of the corner, and about 5" from the bottom of the tank. I ran my fingernail across the crack and can barely feel a tiny line on the outside, but feel nothing on the inside of the tank. I have placed the tank into my bathtub, as it is well below the top of the tub, and filled the tank to the top with water. So far it has been nearly 7 hours and the outside of the tank is still bone dry without a single leaked drop anywhere. I have pushed on the area from the inside of the tank and out, and even put my pulsating shower head on the inside of the tank in the area while filling it - all of which did not change anything at any point and the outside is still dry and leak free. I thought this would help to test if the crack will enlarge or leak under use.
<Good experiment>
I am curious if this is something to worry about with such a small tank and low height of only 12 1/4" tall.
<Actually... it is>
I thought that due to the tank set-up there would not be necessary as much weight pushing against it, as the much larger tanks I read about, and would be nothing to worry about in this case. I am wanting to know if I am just kidding myself and this is a big problem, and if a simple "patch" would fix any possible problems. Such as the "patch" as I have read on your site of putting a piece of glass on the inside over the area and using silicone over the cracks and edges/under the glass, and silicone the cracks from the outside. If the glass "patch" will work how thick of a piece of glass should I use and what size dimensions (the full height, 8 inches wide, or what)? I have read that a 1/8" would be thick enough in one instance but wanted to make sure.
<Mmm, if you want/ed to fill this tank all the way/to the top, I would suggest siliconing a piece of glass the size of the outside panel (sans the frame) onto the outside (nothing on the inside) of 3/16" thickness ("double pane")... Otherwise, if you'd be happy with the water being less than 5" deep (you can lay a submersible heater down, use an internal filter)... you could make this tank into a vivarium of sorts for your frogs, plants...>
Please let me know if this is something to worry about, and if the extra glass piece would fix the problem - or if I should just find another tank to use (I just want to make sure I do not end up hurting my frogs or flooding my upstairs apartment). Many thanks,
Thomas
<I wouldn't set this tank up presently as it is with water added all the way to the top... the crack is too likely to "grow" suddenly, cause catastrophic failure. The somewhat simple repair (smearing the Silastic onto the back, placing the pre-cut, beveled piece of plate glass over the entire back, will make this tank "good as new" in terms of safe use. Bob Fenner>

Help repairing 110gal bowfront aquarium 11/4/09
Hi, I recently came across an aquarium I knew would be trouble, but wanted to repair due to its unique dimensions. The tank is a 110 gallon bowfront aquarium mad by perfecto in Oct 2005. It is 48" wide, 33" tall, and bows out from 12" to 18". I know this is very tall for a standard aquarium.
<Yes, this is so>
It came with a broken top frame. I ordered a new top frame that should be coming in tomorrow. When removing the old top frame I found both of the top corners have chips, one worse than the other. I was very careful removing the trim using only my fingers and razor blade and do not think it is new damage.
<Doesn't appear to be>
The tank looks to have already been resealed, the bottom and top silicone is clear, and the vertical corners are black.
How Significant is this problem? Is this a fixable tank in your opinion?
<Is not significant due to the placement, not really "fixable", but I would "fill in" the chipped area (with 100% Silastic of any color) to prevent folks getting cut by the sharp glass>
Are there any special measures I can take when putting the new top on to prevent problems?
<Mmm, none other than (non-structural) filling in the missing area>
Is there anything stronger than standard silicone to strengthen the corners?
<None that are practical>
Do you have any suggestions for me?
<To enjoy this tank, set-up, and not worry. The break here is not likely to be a problem>
Attached are pictures.
Thank you, Alex
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Help repairing 110gal bowfront aquarium -- 11/04/2009
Great! Thank you, I really appreciate it.
<Very happy to have helped you. BobF>

Aquascaping Prep and Tank Repair
Simulating Ruins Without Ruining an Aquarium! -- 04/07/09
Good evening Crew! Hope all is well with you.
<And a good evening to you. Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
I have two things for your attention tonight. First, I'm getting ready to do the aquascaping in my first marine tank now that my live rock is cured and the tank is cycled.
<Yaayyy! The best part of the process, IMO!>
I have a couple of polystone statues that I'm going to incorporate (I'm going for a ruined civilization feel) and I just wanted to confirm that my understanding was good on how to prepare them. I've read conflicting ideas. According to all I've read I'm going to:
1. Scrub well with vinegar solution and a toothbrush
2. Soak them in circulated water (fresh or salt?) for a few days at temperature.
3. Give them a final dust/rinse off to get rid of any loose material and then add to the tank.
<All sound good...I'm not really certain about the possible toxicity of this material. If it is specifically made for aquarium use, I'd be a bit less concerned. On the other hand, if it was specifically made for aquarium
use, it would probably be twice as expensive, huh? Decisions, Decisions! By the way, you absolutely HAVE to forward a pic of this aquascape when it's done for my "Aquascaping for the Aesthetically Challenged" presentation that I do at clubs and conferences. This is just too tempting for me NOT to
include!>
I won't be adding any livestock for 3-6 weeks after the aquascaping is done. I figure that would be enough time to let the tank stabilize or find any problems.
<Well, you do want an aquarium to cycle, of course, and perhaps the extra length of time will help determine if anything is leaching from these decorations. Perhaps continuous use of Poly Filter and/or activated carbon could remove much of whatever leaches out of these items.>
Second, a quick question about tank repair. I have a 65G tank that is sitting empty (my display is a 75). I had bought it used and didn't notice until I filled it to check for leaks that there was a large chip in one of
the front corners on the inside. It goes a good bit under the silicone seal and I wondered if you thought it could be repaired with silicone. I've attached two pictures, front and side. If it can be repaired I plan on
using it as a QT. Thanks for any and all suggestions. If knowledgeable people in other fields shared half as much of their expertise as you folks do, the world would be a far better place.
Thanks,
Corey
< Thanks for the kind words! Corey my instincts tell me that it might be possible to fix this with a careful, healthy bead of silicone, but I will defer that one to Bob, who's probably forgotten more about tank repairs
than I ever knew. Although I've probably broken more, he's definitely repaired more! Bob, what say you?>
<<I do agree... Might be fine as is... but attaching strips of glass with Silastic... for sure. RMF>>

Chipped Glass: Is it safe? 4/6/2009
Hey guys!
<Hi Adam>
I bought a 125 gallon tank from Craig's List a couple of nights ago. The tank had been sitting around at the guy's house for about 5 years and never set-up or even used. He delivered the tank to my place, but after he left, I noticed a chip in the back corner. I filled it with water outside and it held for several hours and then I drained it, because it's still getting cold here in MN at night and I didn't want it to freeze. Can you look at
these shots and let me know if you think it'll hold? It looks like the silicone goes well past the point of the chip and the chip is on the outside only. You can probably gather all the info you need from the photos
I've attached, rather than trying to explain it all.
<Looking at the pictures, it is fine.>
Thank you for any help! Since it was sold as is, I have no real case to get any money back from the guy, so I'm hoping there is a way to make this work.
<Shouldn't be a problem, enjoy your new tank. Do be sure to rinse it out completely before putting anything alive in there.>
Thanks!
<You're Welcome>
-Adam
<Mike>