Bob Fenner Sugar   2/24/19
I recently watched a MACNA talk by Bob Fenner about anemones in the trade, and near the end he mentioned using sugar as an easy energy source for ill fish and inverts. I have tried to find other information and recommendations about using sugar for this purpose, and wasn't able to find
anything yet. Can I get a little more guidance on this, recommended  dosage?
<There is a bit by Hans Hvass in one of the early MERGUS Angel/BF books by Steene and Allen and I think the Pet Library ltd. books in the hobby realm; otherwise you'll have to delve into a scientific literature search. (See WWM Re, and the use of hexoses, iodide/ate)... This is an old, but reliable
adjunct to re-stabilizing challenged aquatic (and terrestrial life). Am out on a dive liveaboard currently so don't have much capacity to look up, nor relate. Please write back w/ specific questions, concerns. Bob Fenner>

Lowering pH for acclimation; commercial        12/13/18
Dear Bob,
<Hey Branko>
We have used vinegar to lower pH so far. It worked fairly well however recently we have created acclimation system where we plan to keep fish for observation for first week before releasing them into holding system that's dosed up with medication.
<Okay>
We used our same old practice of reducing pH with vinegar on the whole system rather than reducing in acclimation tanks and simply release the fish straight into the system and let pH go up on its on over next few hours.
<? I would NOT do this. Vinegar/CH3COOH has other properties, potential side effects. I WOULD only use it (or hydrochloric/muriatic acid, CO2... DURING acclimation, flushing any acid/s out ahead of placement of the livestock in your tanks>
This worked wonders in first few days and we lowered fish loss to below 1% (after doa), however when bacterial bloom sets that's where problems with insufficient oxygen appear and fish begin to suffocate.
<Aye, yes>
This lead us to consider changing to something else rather than using vinegar which causes bacterial bloom.
We need to lower pH in our system from 8.1-8.3 to 6.3-6.6 I have read up our old E-mails and have seen us mentioning CO2 and diluted HCl.
<Oh! Yes>
Would you recon these two methods would be better and would not cause a bacterial bloom afterwards in the same system setup we used vinegar in?
<Likely so; yes; though AGAIN, I would NOT add them to your tanks. ONLY in whatever system/tubs... you're using for initial acclimation>
Would pumping all that CO2 required to lower pH to desired level still be safe for the fish?
<Yes>
What concentration of HCl should be used and does it have any side effects like bacterial bloom or other danger to fish if used in our system as planned?
<Please BE CAREFUL here; inorganic acids are "quicker" and often MORE concentrated than organics like vinegars. You NEED to practice, PRE-mixing a quantity of known concentration (I'd get 3 molar... aka Muriatic... pool acid and CAREFULLY measure and CAREFULLY mix (acid to water) a given quantity TO YOUR ACCLIMATION WATER that is premixed, AND after an hour or so, MEASURE the pH of the solution for use in dripping. ADJUST IT before use, NOT during>
We have 8% and 30% available at chemical stores.
What would the correct dose be for each of the mentioned methods per liter/gallon of water?
<USE the lower concentration (the 8%), the correct dose determination is a function of the alkalinity of your source water, the salt/s you're using.... BEST BY FAR to experiment as stated above; MEASURE the pre-mixed water volume (Mark it on the tank), AND MEASURE the amount/s of acid you're adding to lower the pH of the mixing/acclimation water; and ALWAYS measure pH of the solution before actual use>
Looking forward to your response.
Kind regards,
B.
<PLEASE be careful Branko. Splashed concentrate acids are dangerous... Bob Fenner>

Quarantine question; rdg.        6/8/17
Hello WetWebMedia Crew! First of all, allow me to say that I truly am a big fan of your forum as it is a source of much information ...... thank you also for quickly replying to my emails in the past.
<Welcome Kathy>
I have a quick question for you today, about quarantine procedures ...... I recently purchased some golden semilarvatus butterflies and a tigerpyge to be shipped from the USA to Manila. I have read that butterflies and Centropyge have a high sensitivity to copper and that the next best thing to get them started with the quarantine procedure is to do a freshwater dip with Methylene blue?
<Yes; one approach that is less toxic; effective>
1. What is the ratio of freshwater to Methylene blue?
<VERY safe; you just want the water VERY blue... Can't say the ratio, as individual products are of differing concentration. Put in enough that you can't see the bottom of the container>
2. And do I dip them as soon as the shipment arrives?
<No; need to flush out the ammonia in the fishes... and the water. READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm
and the linked files above; till you're sure you know what you're doing>
Or do I wait for a few days before doing the dip?
<For these species, I would do along with the acclimation protocol... i.e., on arrival>
I am just a bit worried that the fishes will be highly stressed out from the long flight time?
<I understand. IF they do appear too stressed, you can wait for the dip/bath procedure later... as you suggest.>
Would love to hear your thoughts on this. And thank you very much in advance.
Kathy ��
<DO write back if all is not clear. Bob Fenner>
Re: Quarantine question       6/8/17
Hi Bob! Thank you very much for the prompt reply.
<Certainly welcome>
Will read on the link you forwarded and will send you an email again if I do have further questions. Truly truly appreciate all your advice.
Kathy
<Cheers, BobF>

Methylene blue necessary for acclimation?       10/10/15
Hi your websites great, so much useful info.
<We try!>
I've been reading your guide to acclimatizing new imports, everything makes sense and i am ready to trial your recommended method. The problem I have is I'm based in the UK and I can't seem to purchase Methylene blue to add
to the freshwater dip, is it essential to add the Methylene blue?
<Not required, but helpful. Ph and temperature adjusted freshwater is fine.>
Is there any other treatment that is available in the UK that I could use in place of the Methylene blue.
<Personally I believe in watching the animal at a dealer's for a week or so, making sure it's healthy insofar as you can
observe, with a deposit to hold onto the fish if needed. My favorite local retailer dips them as he receives them and again before he sells them to me, may want to ask for this service, which they should be happy/wise to provide. Chemical dips are possibly stressful and I consider them more of a prophylactic for suspect animals than a requirement.>
Thanks Chris
<Glad to be of use, please follow up with your results for others' edification and also read WWM's section on dips, it's pretty thorough. -EC3>
Re: Methylene blue necessary for acclimation?       10/13/15
Thanks for coming back to me so quickly.
<Now BobF; Don't know if Earl put this in my inbox....>
Sorry I wasn't very clear in my firs message, I run an lfs and am wanting to fine sop for new fish imported.
<Uhh; please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/methbluefaqs.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/dipsadditvs.htm
Would just a freshwater dip be sufficient ?
<Uhh; let's have you scroll here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Or do I need to get a treatment to add into the dip, if so any idea what I might be able to use over here in the uk ?. Thanks
<Right. Bob Fenner>

Re: Filtration recommendations and Dechlorinator reaction with Copper       4/1/15
Hi again, I'm just reviewing your Commercial Acclimation procedure again.
For Invertebrates it's basically the same steps as the fish without the use of Methylene Blue, but should we also employ the use of a PVP dechlorinator with tap water as well, in order to flush out the old shipping water?
Thanks again.
<Mmm; however it is done, you want to make sure any chlorine or chloramine is removed. In actual practice this is rarely an issue; given the means most facilities employ initially treating source water (contactors mostly)... and most sanitizer IS complexed in the process of mixing with synthetic salt mix... We are still talking marines correct?
Bob Fenner>
Re: Filtration recommendations and Dechlorinator reaction with Copper       4/1/15
Hello Bob,
<Kevin>
Thank you for the information. Yes marine invertebrates, more specifically SPS and LPS corals.
<... Okay; a carbon contactor for removing the sanitizer; or for a smaller facility/volume, pre-mixing and storing new water. BobF>

Dip for new fish SW Dips\Baths 1/1/2010
Hi there.
<Hi John, Happy New Year>
Upon reading the procedure for acclimatising saltwater fish, am I correct in thinking Meth Blue can be used with saltwater for a dip?
<Most certainly!>
Salinity in my display is 1.022 (all other parameters are acceptable) and I would like to use this water, rather then fresh, to gradually acclimatise new fish in a separate container.
<That is fine.>
Once acclimatised (around 30mins?),
<Sure.>
I'll add Meth Blue, leave it for around 15mins and then net the fish out.
New fish include a Harlequin Tusk, followed by five Humbugs.
Thanks again for your previous prompt replies.
<No problems with what you propose.>
John
<MikeV>

Buffering and Quarantine: Water Chemistry Post-RO filtration and pH Acclimation 12/20/2009
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hi Angela.>
Thanks again for your generosity! We greatly appreciate your gifts of knowledge, experience and valuable time! You do a wonderful job of helping the novices and pros alike. Thank you so much!
<Thank you for the kind words.>
Just two brief clarifications today.
<Sure.>
First, I have begun pre-buffering my RO water with Seachem Reef Buffer after discovering that it was dreadfully acidic.
<Which is usually the case post RO.>
I have not noticed any significant changes so far but wanted to ask how much this will effect the ionic balance of my water. Would it be better to use the Seachem Reef Builder product instead, or perhaps nothing at all? Of course opinions vary on this subject. FYI, I have a lightly stocked 110 gallon reef system and I don't think that water parameters are needed in this email.
<It never ceases to amaze me that we (and I include myself in this statement) filter everything out of our water only to put most of it right back in again, but I digress. In any case, the method that works for me is this. I add simple baking soda to the water to get it either neutral or slightly caustic. After which, I add my salt mix; l after that has all dissolved, I test again and make any adjustments that may be necessary.>
Secondly, I have set up a 30 gallon cycled quarantine system in anticipation of some fish from Live Aquaria.com.
<Bravo on following QT procedures.>
From what I understand, pH shock is perhaps the most common cause of death with mail order specimens.
<Yes.><<Mmm, much more the change in charge of ammonia coupled with too high pH in new water. RMF>>
I was considering keeping the system at around 7.8 using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals product "pH Down".
The reasoning being that the water will be quite acidic on arrival. Does this sound like a wise choice to you?
<That would work, but you are putting extra work upon yourself. Easier, would be to drip acclimate the new fish to the QT water pH and then introduce.>
What if the bag water is significantly lower or higher in terms of pH?
Is it advisable to adjust the quarantine water in accordance to testing the bag water before the fish go in?
<No, again, better the adjust the bag water (smaller volume, much easier to adjust) to the QT tank.>
Thanks so much!!
<My pleasure as always.>
Angela
<MikeV>

Colloidal Silver? On another board someone recommends over and over putting a few drops of colloidal silver into the bag new fish come in, while acclimating them, as a way of preventing/eliminating disease, etc.  Claims always has healthy fish, never introduces disease. Can anyone at WWM confirm this?  Has anyone done it?  Just curious. <There were some fish medications that used to contain silver salts... there is need to be within a narrow margin of concentration of actual silver ions... so, no to "putting a few drops" into a "bag". Some folks still use Methylene blue (mainly for freshwater) or furan compounds in their shipping water... these are safe, effective. Bob Fenner>

Treating new fish 6/18/03 Hello Anthony, <cheers, mate> I thought about Formalin, but was worried about its effects on the filter (which is biological)? <valid... but not so severe as many other meds (like copper, Methylene blue, erythromycin, etc)> I will consider a formalin dip, the Melafix was added because I had some and I thought it would be fine with the shark. <agreed... I do believe it is safe for the shark... and safe for the parasites too <G>> how lo would you say to lower the salinity by (if the shark was removed)? <1.018> I am completely struck on transshipped marines and I am due a list from Hawaii. Can you suggest any thing from there that is really good or worth having? <many fine wrasses, a few dwarf angels... beautiful triggers and Tobies (dwarf puffers)...> in my mind I am thinking flame angels, potters angel, Lemonpeel angels, yellow Sailfin tangs, chevron tangs - common but sought after! <the tangs yes... very much. Great fishes and hardy. The Potters... no way. They are so delicate that many don't even make it to the US mainland. Not a strong fish under any circumstance... lets leave those beauties in the sea. Lemonpeels and Flames can be quite hardy once established though. Very fine.> Regards, Sam <best regards, Anthony>

Medication for adding fish  9/13/05 Bob, can you take a look at this message regarding the "secret formula". Do you know of any such thing? Regards, Salty <I also know of no such "magic herbal remedy"... RMF> Medication for adding fish Hello: About 6 years ago I started in the hobby of keeping a fish only marine aquarium. Like most beginners, my luck with keeping the fish alive for an extended period of time (more than 1 year) was severely limited. I never had any luck with certain species, specifically the Blue (Hippo) Tang... and not quite sure why. I have a 125 gallon tank. With around 250lbs of live rock. Water quality was "theoretically" perfect, yet the Blue Tangs I would keep would perish within a few weeks or couple of months. Anyway, about 3 years ago, I visited a local fish store and I was discussing this problem with the owner of the store and he sold me a "medication" to add to the tank when the fish were showing signs of stress or when I was adding a new fish to the tank. This "medication" was contained in 2 small (5 ml.) dropper bottles, labeled "Part A" and "Part B" - and was sold in a small clear plastic box. I was informed that this product was only available to the trade to assist in reducing stress on the fish after transportation. I have no idea what this product was (it was explained as a herbal-based medication) The store owner said he wasn't supposed to sell this medication... although I'm not sure why - but it worked absolute wonders. Anyway - to cut a long story short, I purchased another Blue Tang and used this medication when adding the fish to my tank. The fish showed absolutely no signs of stress (which is very rare for Blue Tangs). A couple of drops (of each part) of this medicine on day one, and another drop of each 4 days later helped this Tang tremendously. Also, a couple of other fish that were rather lethargic, were revitalized - especially a Harlequin Tuskfish. The entire tank thrived for about 2 and a half years... until a "bad accident" that occurred when we had our house redecorated, wiped out the entire tank - which was, at the time, rather annoying and disappointing. I am in the process of re-establishing the tank, and have had it set up for 6 weeks without adding any fish yet. Do you have any idea what this "medication" was and where I can get it from - it really worked miracles. Also, I plan to do fish-only again and want to select colorful fish that are quite hardy... in this case what would you recommend. Any info you could provide is greatly appreciated. <Jeff, I know of no "secret" formula for stressed out fish. Will run this by Mr. Fenner for his input. As far as starting over, I suggest you search our WWM site, keywords, "startup" and "quarantine". If things are done properly, no special medication should ever be needed. As to fish, clowns, Dottybacks and wrasses are all quite colorful and hardy. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Jeff

Medication for adding fish  9/16/05 Would the product name "Reef Remedy" possibly be the product I'm looking for? <I've never heard of the product.> I think this might have been the name of the product, since I found a piece of paper in my cabinet that had this name written on it. Are you familiar with such a product? <No> I just remember it working wonders for the fish, especially when  acclimating. Finally, do you have any comments or opinions on the products Bio-Spira Marine (for saltwater) and Purigen (by Seachem) filter absorbent for organics and nitrogenous waste removal.  Both of these products have come highly recommended by my local FSH. <I prefer Chemi-Pure myself.  I've heard Purigen works well also, but never used Spira Marine and have heard nothing about the product.  James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Jeff  

Freshwater bath add-ons ... good ideas   5/26/06 Hello, <Jonathan> A strange thought occurred to me today.  I was remembering that marine fish 'drink water' to maintain their osmotic balance, thus you can use a vitamin supplement in their water and they will passively absorb some.  And fish often times initially come in underfed / malnourished. <This is so> Do you think it would worth it if a put some VitaChem or liquid gold in their freshwater bath? <Can help... though minimally due to the short duration of such dips/baths> Its usually only a bath for about 7 minutes duration, but in that time I can see their gills are really pumping and their probably taking in water faster than normal, being that their stressed / surprised. Also I'm thinking that besides the load parasites that meet their doom in the freshwater, a fish also sheds off some of its slime coat while in the freshwater bath. <Yes> Do you think wise to place the fish in a bucket of tank water with Novaqua or any other artificial slime coat product? <As a S.O.P. I have done this for decades in commercial settings, yes>   I ask to place in a separate bucket afterwards because I assume if I take a squirt of Novaqua while a begin the bath it will negate some of bath, the artificial slime coat benefiting the parasites as they hide beneath it. <Mmm, no... For the most part all get sloughed off...>   I suppose I could squirt in a little Novaqua toward then end of the bath.  What do you think? <Is what I do, endorse... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm> [p.s. Do you respond in email to questions or do I look them up on the site?] <Both. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Guerilla Acclimation Techniques  7/5/08 Does this page exist anymore? <Mmm, yes... renamed: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm > I have read the acclimation page, but in the FAQs people seem to reference another method (guerilla) and several chemicals not used in the acclimation technique on the current acclimation article page. Thanks Matthew Harless <Re-named Commercial instead of Guerilla... more PC? Bob Fenner>

Questions on acclimating fish for retail sales.. Hi Bob, My name is Leland Foley and I am starting a Marine Fish/Reef Retail store.  <Outstanding... I will gladly shake the hand of anyone who would (try to) be self-employed. Welcome to our industry> I have worked in many other retail stores, including a couple of years for Inland Aquatics.  <Ahh, Morgan Lidster and I are known to each other> Anyway, I have been around long enough to learn a great deal about fish acclimation, and I really like the way you suggest to acclimate marine fish, but I have a few questions. <Please> 1.) How do you incorporate dips into your Guerilla Acclimation Techniques? I believe, as I'm sure you do as well, that the PVP based dechlorinator, in combination with the Methylene blue really helps the fish to survive the stresses of shipping, <Yes> but after this acclimation procedure, would it be too stressful to put them into a formalin dip before putting them into the main system tanks? <Good question... as it has the usual (lame) "it depends"... by and large if most all marine fish livestock is in "good enough" shape from this point in an/the acclimation protocol, it's "probably okay" (more beneficial than potentially detrimental) to proceed with another dipping/bath sequence...> I'm a strong believer in formalin dips and freshwater dips. They are primarily what I use when I receive a shipment of fish, because I'm sure as you know Clownfishes, and others will die of Brooklynella or crypto quite quickly if not treated immediately upon arrival. <Agreed, especially with Clowns> My acclimation procedure consists of floating the bags to equalize the temps, and then in small batches putting the fish into a saltwater and Formalin dip, or a straight freshwater dip with bicarbonate. I've found that a great deal of fish will die in a freshwater dip, but do just fine in a saltwater with formalin dip. <As always... intelligence and experience go into deciding/judging dip types, duration...> Then the fish are removed from the dip and placed into a quarantine system (500 gal.) that is run by oversized wet/dries, mild protein skimming, and very strong U.V. sterilization. The fish are given high quality fresh seafood (shrimp, squid, marine fish, etc..) treated with garlic and Metronidazole for the first week then flake foods and various frozen foods are introduced. <Wow, quite an expensive undertaking... but worth it> I only use the garlic as a flavor enhancer, it might help remove worms, but this is not the primary reason I use it. <I understand> If a fish pops up with a bacterial infection we dip it again and carefully keep it overfed. If ich pops up on 3 or more fish we add copper to the system. Which brings me to my last question, 2.) What form of copper chelated or non-chelated can be used with UV sterilizers on? Or better yet what brand do you recommend? <In a large operation, volume or livestock flow-wise, non-chelated like the Kordon or Aquarium Systems product... Wouldn't, don't use chelated varieties on sleeved or non-sleeved UVs> Sorry for the long post, but as you know this is what makes or breaks ones profits in this industry, <I do know this... agree. Please make it known if I may be of assistance. Bob Fenner> Thanks,
-Leland Foley