
|
|
FAQs on Marine Alkalinity Science
Related Articles: pH, Alkalinity,
Marine Alkalinity,
Understanding Calcium & Alkalinity,
Related FAQs: Marine Alkalinity 1,
Marine Alkalinity 2, Marine Alkalinity
3, Marine Alkalinity 4,
Marine Alkalinity 5, Calcium and
Alkalinity, Phosphate,
& FAQs on Alkalinity: Importance,
Measure, Sources,
Use of Additives/Buffers, Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Products by Name:
& FAQs on pH: Importance,
Science, pH Measure/Test Gear,
pH Controllers & pH Buffers/Buffering, pH
Anomalies (Troubleshooting/Fixing),
& pH Products by Name, Manufacturer, |
Alkalinity is a measure of.... resistance to downward movement of
pH... pH is simply a static value... a place... one can be high, the
other low..
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm |
Alkalinity Buffers 10/20/07 Crew, <Hi Scott> Can sodium
bicarbonate be substituted for Sea-Chem's alkalinity buffer? They say
that it is bi-carb based. <It can be, but I much prefer using Sea
Chem Buffer as it is a blended product and not just carbonates. James
(Salty Dog)> Scott
Re: Alkalinity Buffers 10/20/07 Hi James, <Hello Scotty>
Thank you for the fast response. <You're welcome.> Along the same
line of thought, I have read much on the topic of pH and buffering, and
it has been written that in addition to testing pH and alkalinity, that
one should also test acidity. My question is where do I find an acidity
test kit I have tried several online stores and have even Googled the
subject and cannot find an acidity test kit anywhere. All I can find is
that most companies refer to pH as a measure of acidity. <pH is a
measure of both acidity and alkalinity with pH 7.0 being neutral.
Readings under 7.0 are considered acidic and readings over 7.0 are
alkaline.> Confused, <Not any more, but do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm James (Salty Dog)> Scott
Re: Alkalinity Buffers 10/21/07 James, <Scott, and sorry for
the Scotty.> Dare I correct you? 1) pH is NOT a measure of acidity
and alkalinity, it is a measure of hydrogen ion concentration. <I
realize that, just trying to explain in a easy to absorb format.> 2)
Acidity is a measure of resistance (buffering capacity) to an upward
change in pH, and 3) Alkalinity is a measure resistance (also buffering
capacity) to a downward change in pH. 4) A /low pH reading is acidic,
but not acidity, and 5) A high pH reading is alkaline, but not
alkalinity. Read the link you referred me to if you are confused. Bob
knows what he is talking about. <Yes, he does, which is why I
referred you to the link.> 6) My name is Scott, not Scotty.
<Again, sorry.> All I wanted to know is WHERE to find an acidity test
kit and I finally found one at
http://www.aquariumcity.net/Instruments/HI3813AlkAcid.htm <I've
been in this hobby for 30+ years and have never heard of anyone wanting
or using an acidity/alkalinity test kit. In my opinion, the standard pH
and alkalinity test kits (of good quality) provide all the information
that is necessary for my needs. James (Salty Dog)> Scott
Questions Regarding Alkalinity Hi there, I've searched the
FAQs and the net for some quick answers to my questions, but haven't
found what I was looking for. It seems that the responses only
complicate the answer and confuse me more... So here are the questions
Thanks in advance! 1. If my alkalinity is low can I use Kalkwasser to
increase it? <Mmm, no... calcium hydroxide has no carbonate,
bicarbonate content...> 2. Will Kalkwasser impact my pH? <Yes...
hydroxides are strong bases...> 3. Is Kalkwasser's main purpose to
'maintain' KH and Ca at the current levels (not used to increase them)?
<... please see WWM re...> 4. Assume that Alk is low and CA is low...
should I use separate additives to reach desired levels... and then
begin dripping Kalk? <You can...> 5. Dripping Kalk won't actually
increase levels unless it drips faster than the evaporation rate
correct? <What? No... almost all that evaporates is simply water...
Please take your time here, learn what these concepts are, their
interrelationships... not difficult with some application of your time,
focus. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm and follow where the
linked files at top lead you. Do you have a marine aquarium book? I'd
look into Baensch Marine Atlas V.1... for simple, complete explanations
of the basics of aquarium chemistry and physics... Bob Fenner>
Saltwater Chemistry 10/31/05 I've had fish in my 40 gallon tank
for a month now (after a month of 30 lb of live rock cycling). Future
plans call for soft corals. <Okay> For the past month, pH has been
8.2 -8.3, temp 75, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, specific gravity 1.023 - 1.024.
Calcium started at 330 and I've slowly increased it to 450 with Kent
liquid calcium. My Mardel test kit lists alkalinity at 240 (which is the
middle of their buffer zone). How does this alkalinity scale relate to
dKH? <Is one measure... carbonate hardness... generally principal
component of total or general hardness... often described as alkalinity:
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&cat=1968&articleid=2765
> Before finding your web site, I chose 1 1/2 inches of dolomite as a
substrate. It is about 3mm diameter. I'm considering replacing it with 1
inch deep of aragonite. <Dolomites are compounds of calcium carbonate
and magnesium carbonate... Aragonitic material is principally calcium
carbonate... more soluble...> I thought I would leave a couple inches
of the dolomite around the live rock (whose foot print is about 40% of
the tank floor) to avoid major stirrings of the tank. Is this a
practical move with fish already in the tank? <Mmm, yes> Does
algae grow on aragonite more or less than dolomite? <Less in most
circumstances> I've read "Conscientious" a few times and have "Reef
Invertebrates" (Calfo & Fenner) and "Aquarium Corals" (Borneman) on my
Christmas list. <Good books. Bob Fenner> Restoring
Alkalinity 2/17/04 Alkalinity tested way too low at 5dKh. We had
only been using Kent concentrated liq. Ca once a week. Ca is at 420; Ph
8.0-8.2; other parameters ok except nitrates stay around 10ppm.
<Alkalinity is THE most under-appreciated, misunderstood and commonly
mismanaged parameters in marine aquaria. Many, many aquarists maintain
Ca, but aren't aware of the need to maintain Alkalinity in a balanced
fashion.> Tank is 220g w/200# LR; 15 fish (30 in.) 12 moving inverts
& 12 mushrooms & corals (not counting 100s of hermits &
snails). Lighting: 5x160w VHO; 2 VHO Actinic Whites 160w run 8
hrs/day. Skimmer is MPS 450 by Aqua Clear. 4 Maxi Jet powerheads
@295gph. <All sounds good, but don't by into that old rule of thumb
of inches of fish per gallon! Compare for arguments sake, the
following: Twelve 1" green Chromis to one 12" Emperor Angel. The angel
has probably 100x the body mass of all of the Chromis combined! With an
average size of a 2" fish, you are probably OK, but do be attentive as
the grow. Heavy fish loads will make it harder to keep nitrate down and
alk up.> Yesterday bought Kent Tech CB parts A&B, and used B only at
rate recommended on bottle in a.m. Only raised to 6dKh. My question is
how often can I add this buffer to correct problem. Should it also be
added to R/O top off water? <It could take A LOT of this product
to restore your alkalinity. It will be perfectly safe to raise your
Alk by 1 dKH per day. Once your calcium and alkalinity are both in an
acceptable range, start using both components to maintain both
parameters.> 55g sump looks pretty cruddy, too; as well as column
skimmer is in. How do I clean it? This project is getting too
scientific for my brain! Please help. Thank you, Kathy Harper
<Cleaning a sump can be tricky. You can run a long siphon hose down
some stairs to a lower floor of your house, or use a wet/dry
vacuum. Skimmers should be removed, disassembled and scrubbed. Best
regards! Adam> Re: Restoring Alkalinity 2/22/04
Adam: Thank u for your prompt assistance. Is it ok to treat daily to
restore alkalinity? <Glad to! It is not only OK, but in fact ideal
to make small adjustments on a daily basis, rather than larger ones less
frequently. Best Regards. Adam> Alkalinity
Hi Crew, Many thanks for all the work y'all do in supporting the
hobby. I've only been in the game for 2 years now, but I constantly
refer to you and have found your book and article recommendations
tremendous--enough flattery for now. <I'll say!> My 150
budding reef tank has been very stable for 2 years with slow addition of
a few LPS's. Good skimmer and flow with 10% water changes bi-weekly.
About 150 lb. of nicely encrusted Fiji with very light fish load and
about 2" of aragonite. Only real change of late is to add 2x250 HQI
halides to the 4x96 PC's (now all actinic). This was done about 6 weeks
ago with a view toward more corals to come. Gradually increasing MH
photoperiod to current level of 6 hrs. per day while trying to let algae
growth cycle and stabilize with each incremental increase in
photoperiod. <Sounds good> My alkalinity has been stable
above 9 dKH while Ca has stayed above 400 and pH 8.3 ( I dose with Tech
2 part Calcium buffer at the same level for over 9 months now).
My problem seems like a total newbie question, but the more I read,
the less certain I become of the best solution. Within the past 3 weeks
I've found my dKH falling to current 7.7 while Calcium ranges 360-410
and pH still 8.2 or better. Other observations: Some coralline algae
(very small percentage of total) near top of tank has died and bleached.
My sand sifting starfish has started spending much more time on top of
the sand bed and is rarely ever concealed. Emerald crabs have turned
much lighter bleached color from previous green and become more diurnal.
Is any of this related? What role is the MH photoperiod playing, and
most importantly, how can I reverse the decline in alkalinity?
Thanks so much in advance for your assistance. <Good
descriptions! All tied to your new lighting... driving photosynthesis...
the biomineralizing life and reductive effects of respiration in a
closed system exhausting the alkaline reserve... Let's cut to the
proverbial chase: You can either restore previous levels with addition
of "two part" supplements (alkaline earth... calcium, magnesium... AND
alkaline reserve... carbonates, bicarbonates...) OR switch to a "calcium
reactor" of sorts... or... Bob Fenner> Re:
alkalinity Thanks for the prompt reply and affirmation of what I
suspected (hoped) was the problem. I've been looking at calcium reactor
as next on wish list... the only question is how urgent or dangerous
is this dKH decline and how long before I need to make the addition?
<Mmm, read over www.WetWebMedia.com here... as usual, too much to simply
answer in a brief response... that needs to lead to next logical
interrogatories... you want to fix this now, someway> In the
meantime I suppose I can increase my dosage of Kent's 2-part Calcium
buffer to hold the line until reactor installation--correct?
<Ah, yes.... I should (as usual) read ahead> Thanks again for
everything-I've been reading your info on Ca reactors and will continue
to do so. <Real good. Bob Fenner> Soda Ash Hi Crew,
<Terry> Just a quick question. I have three reef tanks and live near
a soda ash mine. I use the soda ash in the swimming pool to adjust the
alkalinity. Will this work in place of the SeaChem Reef Builder that I
have been using to adjust alkalinity in the reef tanks? I can buy a 25
lb. bag for about the same price as a jar of the SeaChem. Thanks, and
keep up the good work, you all are great!! Terry <Mmm, well soda ash
is simply sodium bicarbonate... baking soda aka... so, you could just
buy "Arm & Hammer" instead if this is all you wanted... You will find
that the commercial products contain at least a carbonate and an
anti-caking additive... At any length, if it were me, my system I would
NOT use the soda ash from the mine, for fear of contamination... but
would use the processed food grade if all you want is to add
bicarbonate... you will find by experimentation that this material will
not elevate your pH more than about 7.8... Bob Fenner> Alkalinity
too high? 3/16/05 Hi, I'm new at marine aquariums and am having
some trouble. <no worries... its a wonderful learning curve> I
bought a test kit and have been testing for 2 weeks, now. It tests pH,
carbonate hardness, NO2, and NO3.
I also measure temp., spg, and salinity. I thought everything was great,
but I couldn't figure out the carbonate hardness or alkalinity.
<tough to sum up in a brief e-mail, but the gist of it is total hardness
vs. carbonate hardness for starters. If your kit only tests for the
latter, no biggie... it is indeed most of the total hardness in
seawater> My brain just couldn't understand for some reason. Finally,
it clicked and I've discovered it's way high! However you figure it,
these are what I get: 250ppm, or 5.0 meq/l, or 14 degrees carbonate
hardness. That's high, right? <it is high... not too severely. 12
dKH is high enough as long as your Calcium is a bit flat (under 400 ppm,
e.g.)> How can I fix this? <a large water change and some time...
no worries> We used potassium softened tap water originally,
<yikes!> but then used distilled water and mixed it with Instant
Ocean as directed and did a partial water change. <hmmm... you may
need to buffer the distilled water slightly. Yet with distilled water, I
cannot see how your ALK got so high? Have you added SeaBuffer at some
point in time? That would be the logical explanation (overdosing
SeaBuffer)> My pH is 8, salinity is 30, and spg is 1.023, temp.
holding at 77. We also set up a small quarantine tank with distilled
water and Instant Ocean and came up with the same readings. I don't
think it's my water then. In my main tank, a 29 gallon, I am using the
Skilter filter, along with 2 airstones. We have a 5 lb. live rock and
used live sand/crushed coral as substrate. We do have 2 clown fish, a
tang, and 2 small hermit crabs. I had 2 other clowns first, but 1 lasted
7 days, then the second died after 11 days. I don't want to lose any
more! Can you help? <please also read the article "Understanding
Calcium and Alkalinity". Do a search for this article on our home page
at wetwebmedia.com by using the Google search tool there. Kindly,
Anthony> Understanding Alkalinity Hi
again, <Hi there! Scott F. back with you today!> Finally, my tank
got cycled last week. I added a flower pot, frags of candy and a green
button polyp. The LFS told me to add some Alkalinity Buffer. What does
this do? and If I need it, which brand shall I get? Thank you, Felix
<Well, Felix- I'm not sure why the dealer recommended that you get the
buffer. If he or she tested your water and determined a need, then I can
understand. It all boils down to basics, I guess. Alkalinity is a
measurement of the buffering ability (capacity) of your system.
Alkalinity is sometimes depleted from systems by improper dosing of
calcium supplements. Calcium supplementation without the appropriate
carbonate added as well can knock your alkalinity way out of whack! My
advise is twofold: First, get an alkalinity test kit. Second: Get
yourself a nice tall glass of Thai Iced Tea, some popcorn, and a little
quality time on WWM reading over the alkalinity FAQs. That will really
help you get a grasp on the calcium alkalinity dynamic, and an
understanding of pH in your system. It's worth the effort to learn! Good
luck, and have fun! Regards, Scott F> First time
Kalkwasser/Calcium User - 8/13/03 Hi, <cheers> I have a 180
gallon tank and my coral is changing colours quite significantly.
<Many possible reasons... excess nitrate if darkening in color,
insufficient nitrate if paling, too much or mot enough UV... dirty lamps
or lenses, aging bulbs, lack of weekly/monthly carbon to maintain
crystal clarity to water, etc> I am trying to research the benefits
of Kalkwasser versus Calcium but it's getting kind of confusing.
<Kalkwasser is calcium mate... are you confusing it with
carbonates/buffer?> I understand that Kalkwasser is literally calcium
hydroxide, so is this the same as "calcium only" products (such as Reef
Success Calk, Kent Marine Turbo Calcium Dry, assorted calcium
concentrates, etc)? <nope... Kalkwasser is better (many more
benefits to it... read about them in our Kalkwasser FAQs in the archives
of wetwebmedia.com). The latter products are generally just calcium
chloride which is only a temporary supplement for calcium (can cause
long term problems if used regularly)> If so, that makes this a lot
easier, but if NOT, then what do I do? <do read my article
"Understanding Calcium and Alkalinity" in the archives> If it
matters, the coral types I have are colt coral and anemone. <please
also read about eh dangers of mixing sessile corals with motile
anemones. Its a recipe for disaster in the long run. Do keep anemones
separate> Your site is great to answer questions that I might have
after I get going, but I just need a little help getting started. Any
suggestions? Thanks, Raj <all good my friend... begin here and read
the links at the top of the page and beyond:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm best regards,
Anthony> High Alkalinity & Calcium Hello, My
alkalinity and calcium seem quite high for my FOWLR tank, yet my pH
stays rather low. Alkalinity is 5 meq/L, calcium is 450, and pH ranges
from 8.0 to 8.2. <These are all fine.> Are these numbers anything
to be concerned about? <No, not really. As long as they all stay
consistent.> What is the best way to get my pH up without getting my
alkalinity and calcium any higher? <Aggressive protein skimming to
remove dissolved organics that affect pH.> I've added quite a bit of
Macroalgae and that has helped somewhat. <Yes, helps in several ways;
taking up the dissolved organics mentioned above and also consuming CO2
during the daytime.> Thanks for your input. Chip <You are welcome.
-Steven Pro> High Alkalinity & Calcium III Steven,
Thanks again for the reply. Okay, so how do I increase the pH without
raising the alkalinity and calcium? <Water changes, protein skimming,
activated carbon, etc.> And is the 8.4 you suggested the LOWEST the
pH should go? -Chip <About average, anywhere between 8.2-8.6
depending on time of day, supplements used, lighting, photosynthetic
animals, etc. -Steven Pro> Re: High Alkalinity & Calcium
Steven, Thanks for the reply. As a follow-up, my AquaC skimmer (only
4 weeks old) occasionally goes on 'strike' for two days or more after a
water change and after I've had my hands in the tank. Is it normal for
it to go this long without skimming? <Yes, it is disrupted briefly.>
It eventually resumes, but it just seems to take a while. Also, I will
be putting a raccoon butterfly in this tank. I've read on WWM that they
like higher pH and salinity. My salinity is currently 1.023. Should I
increase it for the butterfly? Is my pH (8.0-8.2) okay? <I would
increase both to natural seawater conditions; 1.025 and 8.4> Thanks
again, Chip <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Help? Question
Hi, I have an question to ask you if you don't mind. I have a 55 G reef
tank that has been set up now for about a year. Everything is testing
fine but my alk. is testing at 5.00 mEq/l and my ph is 8.0 How can my ph
not be higher than this value if my alkalinity is high? <Easily...
these measures are not directly positively correlated. Alkalinity is a
measure of.... resistance to downward movement of pH... pH is simply a
static value... a place... one can be high, the other low...> I'm
trying to get my ph to a stable 8.2. I did accomplish this for a time
with Proper PH 8.2 buffer but it dropped back to 8.0. My calcium is
about 460. <Ah! Likely your focus on driving the biomineral content
of your water is your real nemesis here... self-caused. Please read
through the various sections on pH, alkalinity, calcium... posted on our
site: WetWebMedia.com and accompanying FAQs pages> What is causing my
ph to drop if my alk. levels are high? Please help... thanks <You can
only help yourself... give up your fixation on any one given value...
the linearity of your thinking is the source of the "trouble" here. Bob
Fenner.> ALK, Calcium Greetings! <Cheers, Anthony
Calfo in your service> I have what seems to be a fairly successful
reef which has a TON of money into it and all life in there seems to be
well. I have an open brain, magnificent anemone, frogspawn, green star
polyp, and about 10" in fish. Here goes: 125 gallon, RO/DI water, 6"
175w MH/VHO Canopy, 180lbs. live rock, wet/dry, carbon, heater, chiller,
Aquacontroller II, Aqua-c EV-120. Water parameters: 80 degrees, 1.023
SG, Ammonia =0, Nitrites=0, Nitrates=<2, Cal 380-400, Alk 2.5 meq/l, PH
2.3 at night - 2.45 during the day, <The alkalinity is too low
and the pH is clearly a typo...resend please> My dosing schedule is:
Monday & Tuesday dose 2.5 gallons/day of top off dosed with Seachem
Reef Plus, Advantage Calcium and Reef Calcium, Tuesday and Wednesday -
Reef Builder (raises carbonate alkalinity) Thursday and Friday, just
advantage calcium, Saturday and Sunday, Reef Builder. Obviously the Alk
is low and so is the SG. I am not dosing Kalkwasser. <I strongly
recommend Kalkwasser> What do you recommend to raise alk? <common
Seabuffer if using Kalkwasser or two part liquid supplements if using
neither (like B-Ionic brand or Sea Balance)> Just keep doing what I
am doing? <heck no> Let me know your thoughts on just using the
liquid and powder calcium chloride. <calcium chloride should only be
used alone in emergencies... it is plagued with problems for daily use
in the long run> Should I supplement some Kalkwasser in the
schedule? <daily for optimum coral growth and saponification
(improving skimmer performance)> If so, how often. Thanks! Adam
<best regards, Anthony > ALK, Calcium II Thanks for the
reply Anthony! <very welcome> Follow up question for you or two.
1) Why is daily use of Calcium Chloride a problem? <accumulated
chloride ions can skew the alkalinity/Ca dynamic.. making it hard to
maintain alkalinity> 2) So, you would dose Kalkwasser daily and how
often would you use a buffer? Is this an alkalinity buffer? <not a
buffer directly, but reduces the amount of buffer needed in a system to
maintain Alk while increasing Ca> 3) Do you see a problem with
biweekly dosing of Reef Plus ( Vitamins and minerals for corals)?
Actually they (Seachem) recommends just dumping 6 capfuls (for my
125) into the sump. <experimentally it sounds fine... I like regular
water changes as much or better for this purpose. Anthony>
Alkalinity Pool- kH question Hi! By-the-way, you're a great
crew!!! <Thanks kindly> I'm going to ask you one question:
Month ago I was dripping Kalk - it did great job > my kH rinse from 7 to
10 {dKh} <very good to hear... as hoped/expected> Then I stopped
for a week to see what will happen. kH rose to 8 so I started to drip
again {1 week ago}... Why is my kH is still 7 and didn't move???? I'm
doing everything like then but it don't 'want' to move... What cause
that? My Ca was 410 all the time so I'm not worrying about it. <my
apologies, but its not clear to me exactly what your question is my
friend. Are you comparing/testing for carbonate and/vs. general
hardness? If so... it is possible to have a slight discrepancy between
the two although they are usually close/similar. Perhaps it is best to
determine what your natural daily drop/demand is for these parameters...
then test to see what the rate of delivery your present drip dose
delivers is. You will then have an indication if you are dosing enough.
Best regards, Anthony
kH question I'll clear my
question: Why my kH isn't rinsing even if I drip Kalkwasser?
<Ahhh... yes. Understood, my friend. The reason is very simple...
Kalkwasser only indirectly supports (although it usually does it very
well) carbonate hardness by providing caustic (high pH) hydroxyl
molecules which neutralize acids in the aquarium that would otherwise
"chew up" your pool of carbonates (kH). But Kalkwasser does not actually
deliver carbonates... remember it is a "calcium" supplement. For extra
carbonates, you need to use a buffer product (containing sodium
carbonate/bicarbonate). Aquarists typically dose buffer by day, and
Kalkwasser by night. IN systems with a nice deep bed of fine aragonite
sand, you may not need much or any buffer, and Kalkwasser alone will
support both Ca and ALK. But in your case... it sounds like you may need
to be adding a little bit of sea buffer powder too> I'm doing
everything like before to push but it don't want to move... Best regards
and happy weekend Peter <no worries... easily misunderstood... our
tanks need calcium + carbonates to make calcium carbonate structures.
Both must be kept in good supply and stable, else you will not realize
growth. Best regards, Anthony>
Alkalinity What should
be the range of alkalinity in a salt water tank mine is 38 gallons
<target 12 dKH for general care and higher if reefkeeping. Anthony>
|
|