What should my alkalinity be?
I have a 90 gallon reef tank with 125lbs of Fiji rock and 1.5 - 2 inch sand bed with various soft and 3 hard corals as seen in my picture. I have 5 small fish {they will stay less then 3.5 inches each} 1 coral banded shrimp, blue legged hermits, Nassarius snails, turbo snails, 2 brittle serpent stars. << Certainly not over loaded. >> As you
can see in the pictures everything looks happy and all the rock is covered in nice coralline algae. The only coral that seems unhappy is the 2 headed long tentacle toad stool that split 2 months ago. He hasn't extended his tentacles fully since splitting. << Could still be recovering, but more likely doesn't like the water or lights. >> I am assuming given time he will extend them fully again.
Lighting consists of 6 x 55 watt 50/50 bulbs and 1 x 40 watt Coralife actinic no bulb. << Not much light, but apparently enough. >> Filtration consists of a surface skim box that flows into a 20 gallon long sump/refugium that has 24/7 lighting. In the refugium is miracle mud and Caulerpa. Additional filtration is provided by an aqua c remora pro hang on filter. Water is returned to the tank by a 800 gph pump. In the tank I have 3 aqua clear power heads hooked up to a red sea wave maker.
My water parameters are as follows.
Salt: 1.024
Temp: 78
Calcium: 390
Alk: 4.69
DKH: 13.04
Ammonia: 0
Nitrates: 0-.25
Nitrites: 0
Phosphates: .25
I have enclosed a picture of my tank. My question is, are my ALK and DKH levels good. << Yes, excellent. >>
I have read different opinions on this. Some recommend DKH 8-10 and ALK 2.5-4.5, others recommend DKH 12-15 and ALK 4.5-6. << You are fine, and that is ideal. >>
Your help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian Marotta
<<  Blundell  >>

Alkalinity is too high?
Ok I have had the tank for I would say 7-8 months now it's a 40 gallon breeder tank with assorted soft corals in it. my specs are as follows.
196 watts light 50/50, 65-70 lbs live rock with crushed coral substrate, SeaClone 90 gallon protein skimmer, two 350 gph power heads in either corner, AquaClear 450 with heater inside of it, assorted snail, and hermit crabs, 2 clowns, 1 algae blenny, 1 royal gamma, 1 blue damsel.  For freshwater I use ro/di water that goes through a five stage system I bought, I also use red sea salt.  I have had the same problem since I started the tank. I would manage to get the water down to 3.0-3.5 meq/l and within a week it would start to rise and soon enough it would be around 4.5-5.0 I keep the calcium around 350-400 through liquid calcium. << I would think that getting your alkalinity up is a good thing.  Most people have a problem with that, and not the other way around. >> it seems to me that my corals grow a lot better when the alk is down around 3.0-3.5. << Hmmm, I guess that could be the case, but I wonder if you corals are growing better in that situation because of higher calcium levels.  Or a better way to say it is more available calcium. >> just wondering what might be causing this because I always hear of people with problems of the alk dropping but I seem to have it backwards. << Yeah, I would stop adding liquid calcium at this time.  If you are having problems, stop adding and wait it out.  Also, I would be adding a two part solution, but not for a while. >>
thanks for your help love the website its been a great help
<< Good luck, and no worries. >>
thanks,
Stephen R.
<<  Blundell  >>

Buffering
Hi Scott
<Hello again!>
How are you?
<Just fine, thanks!>
I need your advice on my thoughts.
I pre mix my tap water with salt as I do not have an RO-unit.
I leave this mixing for a week before I add the new water to my tank. I was thinking will it help if I were to add crushed shell to this drum of mine and then mix the water in there.
<I would not bother, myself.>
Will this maybe assist me in pushing up my ph instead of using additives and adding bi-carb  which I
ain't really too fond of, like to keep it as natural as possible.
<Well, most of these buffer products are quite natural, actually. A great assist is a deep sand bad of aragonitic material>
Also what exactly is KH and how do I go about maintaining this , have seen some fancy, costly additives which I personally don't think are necessary. Please shed your very valuable advise on my thoughts Thanks Again
Ziad
<Well, Ziad- rather than go nuts with a long winded dissertation on this basic tenant of water chemistry, I invite you to check out the large amount of information that we have on this subject on the WWM FAQs. Simply use the Google search feature that we have here, using "KH" or "alkalinity", or "buffering" as your key words...Enjoy the learning- the answers are here in abundance! Regards, Scott F.>

Buffering (Cont'd.)
Hi Scott
<Hi there!>
Thanks for your input
<You're quite welcome!>
can I try adding crushed shell to my drum where I mix my water to push the ph of my tap water up?
<You could>
Do you think it will help
<Personally, I don't know if it will have much impact on water chemistry, as this material will dissolve very slowly-over time. Makeup water will generally not be in this drum long enough for the material to have a meaningful impact on water chemistry, IMO>
Thanks. Regards
Ziad Limbada
<Always a pleasure! Scott F.>
 

Buffer Question 20 Aug 2004
Hi, hope all is going well there for all of you. <thanks James we appreciate that>  I have a couple of non-related questions, please.  First, I have read that when storing water in a plastic container for water changes, the ph buffer should be added prior to the salt mix. <Honestly I don't add buffer to my water since when I add the salt mix it should take care of all the buffering necessary> I was curious as to why, since the buffer is for salt water and it will only be plain water if the buffer is added first. <I don't see the point to adding buffer> Second, do you know of a website where I might find aqua Thiel products such as No-phosphate and No-silicate? <Not off the top of my head but you might type the names into www.google.com.>  thanks, James
James Hall
 

Alkalinity Question 19 Aug 2004
Morn'n crew - <Howdy Brad, MacL here with you this fine and dandy afternoon.> just a quick Alk question..  I currently have a 55G softy reef; simply mushrooms, zoos and polyps. It's been running for the past three months and I'm just curious about reef alkalinity consumption. <Kewl me too!> Calcium remains steady at 400 with 5 Gal a weekend WC (Tropic Marin) and a Wednesday tablespoon dose of Seachem Reef Calcium (powdered). The question is I add 1 tablespoon every morning (slowly) of Seachem reef builder Alk Buffer to keep Alk at 10 - if I skip one day the next morning Alk drops to 8..  Is this normal (I know what is normal!), but does it sound right? <Total alkalinity is determined by the amount of acid (free, positively charged hydrogen atoms) that is required to neutralize all the negatively charged bicarbonate, carbonate, and borate ions present in one liter of water. (Quote from Martin Moe, but what that means is that,  "A system that is in an "ionic balance" is one that has  a balanced ratio of cations (positively charged ions like calcium, magnesium, strontium) and anions (negatively charged ions like carbonate). If there is a correct ratio of these ions in a system, then they will stay in solution and not precipitate out. What I suggest as "balanced" is around 400 mg/l of calcium to around 4.0 meq/l of alkalinity." Thanks Rusty from SeaChem. What this means in lay terms is that something in your tank is a little out of balance.  Not badly because of course your chemical additions are taking it to balance. Rusty from Seachem also suggests that to achieve this balance you use water changes. He gives this fantastic explanation which I have his permission to use. It goes like this. . . Let's say you had a jar full of evenly mixed up marbles. The blue marbles are calcium (let's say there are 400 of these marbles representing the 400 mg/l of calcium in natural sea water), the orange marbles are magnesium (and there are 1,300 of these marbles representing the 1300 mg/l concentration of magnesium in NSW), and the yellow marbles are carbonate alkalinity (200 of these representing the 4.0 meq/l of alkalinity that most captive reefs are kept at. NSW is not this high). In this even mix of marbles, there is a greater chance that the blue calcium marbles and the yellow alkalinity marbles will never come in contact with each other because there are so many orange calcium marbles (1300 to be exact) along with other "marbles" (like sodium, chloride, sulfate, strontium, etc.) in the mix. If you lessened the amount of orange magnesium marbles (basically remove some magnesium out of the mix), then you have increased the chance of the blue calcium marbles and the yellow alkalinity marbles coming in contact with each other forming an insoluble precipitant (calcium carbonate) because there are now less marbles in the mix. The above analogy is an example of basic ionic competition and this is why ions stay in solution if there is an even mix of marbles in the jar (basically an even mix of ions in solution) I hope that helps Brad, MacL>
Thanks, Brad
 

Water Chemistry learning curve 8/5/04
Hi--thanks again for your quick response.
<always welcome my friend>
I am trying to get up to speed--just bought Bob Fenner's book and will get yours shortly. My latest problem is the alkalinity. The kit just arrived today and all the other water parameters have not been alarming, so I expected the same with the alkalinity. It was 7.2 when I tested it tonight; pH was 8.2. What causes this?
<Alk, pH and Ca are similarly influenced/quasi-related but not dependent on each other. Your source water, sea salt and supplements have varying influences on these>
I had a red sponge growing on live rock and it has totally lost all color (within a day). How can I bring the alkalinity down?
<Hmm... I assumed that 7.2 was your dKH (and is a whisker low if so). However, if this is meq/l... then 7.2 is staggeringly high. To correct it, test your newly mixed seawater to confirm that is not the source of high ALK and then do a large water change or two. Misdosing supplements caused it then>
The fish don't seem to care, but I don't know if there will be long term effects with them.
<there is a serious risk of a precipitous reaction here... Calcium falling out of solution in your tank like snow and crashing the pH... perhaps the whole system. Rather serious>
I put the carbon filter back when you suggested it... Also, there is a lot of red algae in the tank. It isn't stringy, and is deep
red in color. It's on the rock and glass. I don't think it's coralline algae. It's pretty but I'm worried it shouldn't be there.
<if its slimy, mat forming cyanoBACTERIA (AKA - BGA), the its a sign of excess nutrients and/or inadequate water flow. Do take the time to read more in our archives here at wetwebmedia by doing a keyword search form the home page on the Google tool for "red algae" and "red slime algae">
Could this somehow be related to the alkalinity problem?
Thanks!! R/Janet
<not really. Anthony>

Chemistry learning curve II 8/11/04
Thanks, Anthony. Sorry to have left the units off--
<no worries>
it was 7.2meq/l and I was surprised at how high it was.
<yikes... it is so high that I'm not even sure its an accurate reading. Has this been confirmed on another brand/type of test lit? DO check with a LFS or another aquarist>
Ca = 460; pH = 8.2; hardness is 12 deg dH.
<I'd feel more comfortable if Ca was not pushing the high end too... 425ppm or slightly lower is fine>
Phosphates are at zero, as are nitrates and nitrates.
<do allow some nitrates in the future for coral health/color... just a small amount like 5-10ppm via fish food/feces or dosing with Sodium nitrate (see Knop clam book or my Book of Coral Propagation for reference)>
We think it is "snowing" in the tank.
<with an ALK that high, it should be... yet it is unmistakable if so... hell breaks loose in 12 hours and the tank crashes usually>
What do we do about it?
<you have to let a snowstorm finish, else any water changes or supplements will feed the reaction. When its done, do an immediate and large water change. 2 or more 50% water changes in the next week would be on par>
We just did a 20% water change today. We stopped adding the 2 part calcium buffer about a week ago. When should we resume?
<when the water changes bring the numbers into a safe/flat and balanced range>
Should we test every other day or so and when Ca starts to dip, should we then start adding the 2 part solution again? Thanks!! R/Janet
<unless you have a dozens of large stony corals in the tank needing lots of calcium, I'd like to see you simply rely on small (say 20%) weekly water changes instead for a while to replace trace elements and minerals while diluting the bad compounds. Much better than the see-saw you are on with the random supplements. kindly, Anthony>

Alkalinity drop 7/23/04
I had been using Rowaphos for a few months with no problems. Unfortunately while on vacation, my Calcium Reactor output hose clogged up and the alkalinity dropped from around 10 to 6 ! This severely stressed out several of my favorite colonies including:
Tri-Color Acro - this is the worst one hit but there are some live branches with many polyps under the dead white tips.
Hydnophora - looks like this may recover from the bleaching
Baby Blue Acro Frags- have many of these so not a biggy
Blue Acro tortuosa - Tips are turning white, not sure if it will make it. One of my more expensive and most favorite pieces.
<I am not convinced that a drop in alk to 6 would be enough by itself to cause this.  How sure are you that nothing died while you were away, causing an ammonia spike and how sure are you that your temperature did not rise more than about 4-6 degrees above normal?>
My questions are:  What is the difference between bleaching and RTN ? My colonies did not all die in a matter of hours, but instead are bleaching slowly....although now that I have stabilized the water parameters (Ca = 430, Alk = 10) the bleaching has slowed but still continues.
<Bleaching is the expulsion of zooxanthellae.  RTN is a condition where the coral "self destructs" and the animal itself dies and the tissue sloughs off of the skeleton.  I agree with your move to correct the alkalinity, and recommend carefully monitoring temperature, alkalinity, pH and other parameters and focus on STABILITY!  I would not try to aggressively correct any other parameter unless it is dangerous (ammonia?).>
Should I remove the affected colonies ?
<I would not.  Moving them would be another undue stress.>
Should I frag the affected colonies to save what I can, or leave them alone and hope they recover ?
<I would leave them alone.>
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
<In the mean time, I would recommend lowering your light levels a bit.  I would do this by reducing intensity first (fewer lamps running, raising lamps higher above tank) and only shorten the photoperiod if you don't have any other choice.  After a week or so, work your lighting back to normal over a week or so.  Best of luck!  Adam>

- Alkalinity Drop -
Hello Crew, Sorry to bother you again but I need some advice. I have a 125L with 120lbs live rock and 100lbs crushed coral, 2 250W metal halides and 2 95W VHOs. The alkalinity in my tank is dropping. It has dropped from 11dkh two weeks ago to 8 last week held a few days and then to 6.4dkh last night. Calcium is 480 which is a little high I know. It had been holding steady at about 440 until the alkalinity started dropping and it started raising. PH has dropped a little from 8.4 to 8.2. Nitrates 0, nitrites 0 ammonia 0. I am dosing with Kalkwasser which has been working great for months. I can not afford a calcium reactor right now which I hope to some day have. I do a 10 gallon water every week. Once in awhile I will skip a week and do 20 g the following week. I have coralline algae growing all over the rock and keeps me busy scrapping the sides of the tank. All of my hard corals are still showing good growth and I very much would like to keep it that way. Please. Other then alkalinity dropping the only other thing new was the seeing of what I believe is Halimeda growing from a colony of pulsing xenia and I put in the tank about 3 weeks ago. I first noticed it last Thursday and it has almost tripled in size or the weekend. From what I have read this is suppose to be good and only thrive in good conditions. If I stop dosing with Kalkwasser and only top off with RO water for a few days would this allow things to even out? <Depends on your RO... you should be adding some form of buffer compound opposite of the Kalkwasser... baking soda will do, but there are also aquarium-specific products that will do the same job. At the very least you should add this to both your top-off water and the water you use to mix up your salt.> Please a little advice on how to bring these back into balance.
Thank you for you help
A Worried but not frantic
Norm
<Cheers, J -- >

- Low pH, High Alk, Follow-up -
<Hello, JasonC here this time.>
Adam please you answered my question just days ago so to follow up when I do water changes I clean the substrate which is weekly generally but the last few times it has been especially clean more so than usual which I'm putting down to hermit crabs, small starfish, etc doing a fantastic job and also my bacteria coping wonderfully with the biological load could this fact be an indication of the low ph problem? <Not likely... it is the presence of such excess detritus that brings down the pH - efficient reduction of such wastes would lead to high nitrates, not a drop in pH.> Is all the poo, excess food and algae being eaten what is lowering my pH, if so should I remove some hermits or starfish or what? <I'd be looking in other places.> I only clean the canister filter every three months and it doesn't get very dirty should I clean it more often anyway? <I'd clean the canister at the least every week.> I have a wrasse of some description about 2 inches long fairly young self collected which hides under the substrate all the time like I mean it never comes out unless I scare it out (could be coming out while lights off I suppose) have had these fish before my early tank disaster and I recall they only used to come out for an hour a day at lunch and never saw them eat either. How long would it take a fish to starve to death? <A couple of weeks.> It doesn't look thin at all and it has been two weeks now (had the others longer than that and they never looked thin either) so I'm thinking he is eating something, either detritus on bottom or in substrate or algae at night are the only options. <How about small crustaceans like amphipods and copepods?> Any ideas about this fish's strange behaviour or if it is related to my ph problem? <Well... without knowing exactly what type of wrasse it is, it's hard to say specifically, but if it hides in the substrate, it is likely just wary of predation and feels more comfortable this way.> Now with the co2 idea does this mean I should aerate the water like get airstones for the water or another power head for water movement or do I need a protein skimmer along with removing covers to tank (only problem is I risk fish jumping out have two confirmed jumpers in the tank and kiddies putting fingers and god knows what else in there) or what? <A cover on the tank is always a good idea, although it doesn't have to be glass, it can be eggcrate or similar material that allows gas exchange but keeps the jumpers in the tank and little people's fingers out. The skimmer likewise is always a good idea and I personally can't imagine running a marine tank without one.> Does the co2 just make the ph look lower or is it actually lower by this I mean am I raising ph higher than it is reading is the ph even an issue or will sorting out the co2 problem fix the ph readings? <I'm guessing Adam was referring to CO2 accumulation in the home - this would actually lower the pH of the tank, and your readings would be accurate.> Bit confused about co2 and ph relationship. <CO2, when mixed with water creates a weak acid - carbonic acid, and this would lower your pH. Modern homes, by virtue of their high R-vales - Tyvek wrapping, insulation, and double-pane windows tend to have issues with fresh air - they hold air in the house, and this air becomes CO2 laden over time by virtue of the exhaled breath of the humans living there. Best way to address is to open some windows.> I have tested ph over a day and night and it seems to remain constant 7.9/8.0 when tested every two hours during the day and every four at night so this has nothing to do with it. Neither ph up nor KH up have ingredients on them so don't know if borate is an issue. So in summary ph can be 8.3 at beginning of week after all weekly maintenance, over the week it will drop gradually to 7.9 by end of week and when I do water change etc it goes up but not quite enough so I add 1 or 2 ph buffer tablets and it drops over the week till next maintenance. <Sounds like you should be adding something during the week, in between maintenance periods.> Should I keep doing this or is the drop over the week a problem hasn't seemed to bother the fish so far. <It will in time increase stress which will lead to other problems.> Also to remind you my source water has ph 8.3/8.4 and top up water is 8.0. Should I look at doing larger water changes to get pH up naturally without adding chemicals each week or am I most likely looking at a co2 problem and if so why would this be occurring in my tank. <All of the above.> I have no great algae problem only one live rock if that makes a difference. Look forward to any further advice/ideas you might have. Regards Nicole.
<Well... if your home fits the above description, start by opening some windows. If this has no effect, then I would most certainly try to address this in your source, make-up, and top-off water - keeping all inputs in the ideal range, and then at the high end around 8.4.
Cheers, J -- >
 

- Lowering Alkalinity
Hi again, my dKH(?) in my quarantine tank is a bit high at 14 dKH. <That's not terrible, but agreed that it is on the high end of the scale.> I use Tetra Test kit where I drop in the reagent and the sample turns from blue to green and then to yellow with the last drop. <Hmm... do try running this test again... with titration tests like this, you need to mix each drop - give the vessel a couple of swirls before adding the next drop.> I am counting 14 drops from start to yellow.  I have searched your site and only find questions about FW lowering of alk.  How do I lower the alkalinity in my saltwater QT? <Not much differently honestly, and really there aren't many safe options. I would start by looking for what might make your alkalinity this high - is it your source water, is it something you are adding.> I had dosed Kalk nightly to raise pH because of excess CO2 in my closed up house and I assume the Kalk is also raising the alk. <Not usually.> For the last few days I have been using Seachem reef buffer to raise the pH instead of Kalk in the hopes that the alk will lower by itself. <I'd stop adding this for now. Check the alkalinity of your source water and as well once you've added salt... if the alkalinity isn't as high as the tank, I'd try and solve this with a couple of water changes.> Is there any other way to lower the alk? <Cut back on the buffers.> I use RO/DI for top off.  Thanks, Jeff
<Cheers, J -- >

Marine Alkalinity Issues
Please Help,
<Happy to.  Ryan Bowen with you today>
Have a saltwater tank that has been up and running for about 3 months. <OK>
My water all checks out except the PH.
PH was 7.8 yesterday.  I did a water change using R0 water.
Changed 15 gal of a 60 gal tank.
The PH did not change at all. <Is the pH of your RO ideal?>
I added some PH up then it shot off the charts.................(only added the recommended amount).
So I added the PH down immediately and not it is back at 7.8 <OK>
I tried to bring it back up again by just adding a couple of drops per hour then gave up after 4 hours of no change.
I had just added a rose bubble anemone, coral angel fish, and a fire shrimp.
The fire shrimp died................. <I'm not surprised- a shift of this magnitude could easily kill everything in your tank!>
What can I do to get the PH up to the recommended 8.2? <Best bet is to do a few semi-major water changes with the pH adjusted to your "make-up" water.  Use a buffer, something designed to raise your pH to 8.2 and keep it there.  A buffer won't swing you past your destination.  Then, once the water is ready, do 25% daily water changes until pH is where you want it.  In summary, you're not adding the buffer to your tank directly!  It's all going in through water changes.  This limits the negative effects it could have on your livestock.  Good luck, and please refer to this article for a more complete understanding of pH: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm>
Did the huge swing in the PH kill the shrimp?
I am just devastated.............
Audrey Donaldson

- Alkalinity in a FOWLR -
Hi Guys,
A real quickie.  My pH always remains stable at 8 to 8.3.  The KH stays at 6 to 7.  I have poured in loads off Kent pro buffer over the months but it doesn't increase.  I have a fish and LR system. My question is if the pH remains stable is the KH still critical to be between 9 to 12? <A higher kH is really most desirable for stony corals and clams when keeping calcium available is the order of the day. For fish and live rock, a stable pH and kH in the range you list is just fine.> My saltwater comes from a marine research lab in Cape Town, which pumps it from 5 miles out at sea and filters it, I then add ro water to bring down the salinity.
Also, I test for nitrites-0, nitrates-10, Ph and KH. Should I also be testing for calcium, phosphates or anything else? <You could, but if all else seems normal - fish look good, no algae problems - then I'd move at full steam ahead.>
Kindest Regards,
James.
<Cheers, J -- >

- Alkalinity -
Hi guys, thanks so much for all your advice so far I know I'm a pain but I do spend hours everyday reading through all your archives and am learning all sorts of valuable information! Have halted all progress in my aquarium until I know better what I am doing. I currently test for nitrite, pH,  spec grav and temp. Have all under control but after the few problems I have had namely a result of mis reading pH test colour and letting it drop over a month or two down to 7.5 (or lower who knows) then trying to get it up and dilute spec grav which I let get too high not doing top ups with fresh water (1.029) now that everything is stable my pH cant seem to stay up it took me a week to get it up and even now it seems to drop from 8.2 or 8.3 down to 8.0 or a bit lower over two or three days and I have to keep adding buffer tablets. Even with water changes of about 30% weekly. My guess is by letting it get so low in the first place I have exhausted the buffering capacity of my substrate (which is shell grit and aragonite) and live rock and base rock (limestone I think). <Actually takes a while for this to happen, doubt that this is the source of your problem.> Have ordered from LFS an Alkalinity and Calcium test kit and supplements which should arrive end of week. I'm assuming these will show both depleted and I will need to add each. <I'd start by working on only the alkalinity first.> My question is with adding buffer and maintaining pH (down to 2 tablets after two days now instead of three a day) will my pH become stable again so I can leave testing to once weekly or so or do I need to add more/change my substrate, live rock or anything else? <I'd try adding buffers to your freshwater before you add your salts - doesn't have to be fancy, baking soda will do.> To increase the buffering capacity in my tank again. Does this wear out completely or can it be replaced or something by adding the tablets for kH and pH? <It can "wear out" but in the absence of a real acid - something below pH of 7.0 - this is likely not your problem. I'd investigate your source water first.> Thanks in advance whoever answers this question. Do you guys have a roster or is it just random whoever is on the computer? <It is pseudo-random - some in the group will sort mail into various folders if a particular question is specifically suited to that person. Otherwise, it's sort of first-come, first-served.> Your site is amazing I cant believe you guys are so accessible and there for all us beginners who might other wise give up. This is a very demanding and complex hobby at least initially it has got a lot more involved than I thought it would (pushed to the extreme by my impatience)! To all you other beginners out there my advice is take it slow and RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!
<Indeed. Cheers, J -- >

- Alkalinity -
Hi Everyone,
I have been battling a low Alkalinity problem in my 135 reef for the last few months now.  I am using Kent Pro Buffer to try and raise it, but it's raising my pH too high.  Any suggestions? <How old is this system... if over a year or year and a half, you should consider replacing at least half of your substrate and rock. Otherwise, do check the alkalinity of your top off water and water you're using to make saltwater. Would be a good place to start.> Also, is it okay to buffer fresh saltwater (for water changes) with an Alkalinity supplement? <I'd buffer the freshwater, before adding salt - this would be ok.>
SG - 1.025
pH - 8.5
Calcium - 370 ppm
Alkalinity - 6.1 dKH
<Cheers, J -- >

Alkalinity
My RO/DI comes out with very low alkalinity (about 0-1dKH) (10 TDS) so the filters are working ok.
When I add salt the alkalinity goes through the roof (about 20 dKH (that's what my tank is, calcium in tank is 200))
No matter what salt (instant ocean, red sea, tropic marine (good stuff)) the alkalinity is very very high.
What is in my RO/DI water that is making it so Buffered? Would that be the correct term??
<<If the RO is working, then there shouldn't be anything.>>
I don't know too much about chemistry, but since I have started the reef tank, I have read a great deal about what's in water (WOW).
So Without going into too much chemistry, what's up and what should I be looking for out of the RO/DI.  
<< Well there are a few possibilities that come to mind.  First, have you checked your test kit to make sure it works?  Second have you tested the alkalinity of the RO water?  I'm curious to know, and believe that it probably isn't a RO problem.>>
Is there anything to add to it?
<<This is my quick thinking.  For now, I would suggest mixing up a gallon water.  Test it.  Then add the salt mix to it.  Then, as you said it may test sky high.  Keep a bubbler or powerhead in there and wait 24 hours.  Then test it again.  If the alkalinity is still high, write me back.  I wouldn't be surprised to just see the salt mix take a while to finalize its composition.>>
I am not even talking about the tank now, I have read the FAQ's too.
Thanks
mark
<< hope that works, Adam>>

Low PH and High Alkalinity 6/2/04
I've been having low pH and high alkalinity problem in my tank. Ph is at 8.1 and Alkalinity is at 5.0 meg/L.
<usually a large water change or two will make this more even keeled unless a very high ALK source water is the root cause (easy enough to test and confirm)>
Just a month ago the ph was 8.3 and alkalinity was 4.5 meg/L.  I've been adding SeaChem Reef Advantage Calcium and Reef Calcium and Ph dropped to 8.1. So I added one dose of SeaChem's
Marine Buffer and Ph stayed at 8.1 and alkalinity went up to 6.0 meq/L.
<Yikes! Please be careful to avoid the see-saw effects of such dosing. You may very well need some large water changes here to get your chemistry back on par. Do also read the article we have in the wetwebmedia.com archives called "Understanding Calcium and Alkalinity" (do a keyword/phrase search with the google search tool on the home page)>
Recently alkalinity came down to 5.0meq/L. Calcium is at 380mg/l, magnesium is at 1500mg/l and strontium is at 7.5 mg/l. Right now my tank is fish only tank but I want to slowly turn it in to reef tank. At first I wanted to get some calcareous algae growing in the tank, so I started on calcium.
<precarious and unnaturally high levels of biominerals are not needed for good growth. Stability and consistent levels go much further.>
I tried to find same case on your site but it was all High ph and Low alkalinity problems.
<the see-saw works both ways <G>>
I know that ph of 8.1 is not that big of a problem
<actually... it is a problem in the long run for many corals. Some will not tolerate a night time dip much below 8.3... requiring a daytime pH of 8.4-8.6 >
but I wanted to know if this kind of trend could mean there is some thing wrong with water chemistry.
<yes... skewed slightly from the mis-dosing>
Right now there is no sign of ph going lower than 8.1 but since
the beginning the ph was always at 8.3. I real would appreciate your insight into this matter. Thanks, -hsk
<do check to see that accumulated CO2 in the (well-insulated) home is not depressing your pH. Aerate a glass of tank water in the garage or outside for 6+ hours. If the pH increases over the period, then you have accumulated CO2 in the household atmosphere. Common and discussed at great length in the archives if you are interested. kindly, Anthony>

Conversion of Alkalinity Readings (Mental Gymnastics For Insomniacs!)
Hello Skeleton crew!
<Scott F. your Skeleton tonight!>
Great job managing the board while the rest of the crew is away!!!
<It's all good fun!>
Real quick question that I just can't seen to find in the FAQ's. How do you convert dKH into meq/L??? 
<Here's the formula that I've used to covert meq/L into dKH: Multiply the reading in meq/L by 2.8. It seems logical (gulp- I LOVED math in school-can't you tell) that you'd divide the dKH by 2.8 to get the result in meq/L...right?>
Test kit measures dKH and buffer instructions are in meq/L. Don't these people look at each others products?!?!?
<Annoying, huh? I tend to favor meq/L, myself. It is true that there is some inconsistency in the way different products report results.>
Thanks a million!!
<Or is that parts per million? Heh, Heh!>
-Ray
<Hope this was useful! Regards, Scott F> 

-Sky high alk!-
My alkalinity is very very high in my tank, about 20. <Yikes, I trust that this measurement is not in alk but in dKH, still very high. You could probably dump a gallon of orange juice in this tank and not notice a pH drop ;) > My alkalinity is close to zero out of the RO/DI. <Ok> I let the water sit for 24 hours, no additives, aerate it, bring it to the proper temp, add salt to 1.023-1.024. I have checked my alkalinity at this point and it is very very high, around 20. <No mystery here, your salt sucks. I use Tropic Marin, the levels are always pretty well balanced and close to natural seawater values. Most of the other readily available salts should have similarly acceptable levels of the important stuff, but I haven't personally tested them lately (Kent and Reef Crystals are both good names in reef salts).> How do I lower the alkalinity? My calcium is about 250-300 I have read through the FAQ's and the article about alkalinity (marbles and all), maybe I am dumb, but I'm not sure what to do. Any help would be appreciated. <Instead of trying to bring it down by offsetting it with calcium, I'd just pick up a new brand of salt and do several water changes on the system, then correct the minor remaining imbalance with some straight calcium chloride to bring the calcium level back to normal and thus suppressing the alk. Hope this helps! -Kevin> Thanks, Mark 

- Alkalinity Questions  -
Hello!!! I know I have wrote to you guys many times and might be annoyed of me by now... But i feel that asking questions to experts like you guys are the only way to learn in this hobby (besides researching and reading). <Research and reading is preferred.> A few quick questions today... I know that trace elements are depleted over time in a reef aquarium but how do they get depleted. <Through chemical processes or extraction, as via activated carbon or a protein skimmer.> I know protein skimmers are one way of stripping away trace elements but exactly which elements are stripped away? <The list is actually pretty short - iodine/dide is the most common. Skimmers remove mostly dissolved organic compounds.> Oh, and about over skimming... how do you know if you are over skimming or not??? <Probably if you fill the skimmer cup in one day and then never get anything out of it again for a week or so.> And lastly, you guys said that if calcium additives are not added correctly which causes precipitation resulting in calcium and alkalinity imbalances... then we should do water changes to bring the calcium and alk back into balance. What I don't get here is, how do you know where the balancing point of the two is??? <By doing calcium and alkalinity tests.> Is there a set given number for the two?? <Somewhere in the middle, not too high on either number - these will vary based on the life in your tank that requires calcium.> How will u know when your system is back in balance?? <Testing.> One off topic question here... i just bought a feather duster worm. Where should i place it. <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/feather.htm > Should i place it loosely on a rock on its side?? upright against a rock?? Or bury its body in the crush coral substrate with only a little part of the tube and fan part sticking out? 
Thanks
<Cheers, J -- > 

- Yet More Alkalinity Questions -
I looked through FAQ and in my email you mention NOT to add Kalk but in this FAQ (see below), which resembles my sitch, you state to add Kalk. <Uhh, it does not match your situation - your alkalinity is too high - adding calcium will cause trouble.> The next statement says to not worry about it, let the tank settle? <More than anything, this is what you should do.>
I am so afraid to add ANYTHING as to not have to shovel out a snow storm.
should I buffer <No.>
should i Kalk <No.>
should i add liquid calcium <No.>
again, thanks for your patience
This all reminds me of being a statistician... there is no set way to handle stats, even a 2 tail t-test has variation to each situation. All you read in books don't apply to your specific situation, like you FAQ's, I read and read looking for my situation and cant find it. <Don't agree... you can find enough similar situations to fit the bill closely enough.> I have to piece together all that is there and try to apply it to my sitch!
anyway....thanks for your patience! going to watch Sopranos now <I'm going to go shave my Yak. Cheers, J -- > 

- High Alkalinity, Follow-up -
As I said, out of the RO water it is 0dKH <Understood.> The test kit is a Salifert and because it shows zero out of the RO, I though was ok but can pick up another test kit (I have tested so much, I am running out anyway!) <Yeah, even a different brand of test might be useful here.>
I did this and the alkalinity is still high. Something is in my water. <But what would that be? Given the fact that your water is coming out of an RO/DI filter, that doesn't leave much to be in it.> The LFS said that his is about 17 and not to worry about it. <It's not really a "concern" per se, but does affect some of the other choices you will need to make - for instance moderating your calcium inputs, acclimating your animals, etc, but it's not a fatal flaw so to speak.
Cheers, J -- > 

- High Alkalinity, More Follow-up -
I have tried instant ocean, red sea, and marine tropical (good stuff) all comes out the same!!!! <Interesting.> I add nothing else. <Fair enough.>
Ok, I have read, but what is in the chemistry of the water out of the RO that is making it so bufferable?!? <I have no idea, but perhaps it's time to invest in having your water professionally tested, both before and after the RO/DI filter. Might give you a better idea of what is producing these results.> Maybe it's the water around here and he uses a very very high quality RO/DI (apposed to my cheap slow one) <I'm sure the local water has something to do with it, but there's no way for me to "know" what that is. I doubt the difference is the brand or type of RO/DI filter, but may have more to do with the age of the filter cartridges.>
Ok, ok but back to my original problem, RO = 0dKH add salt 20dKH, wait bubble heat etc. 20dKH .. What's up?? <Your alkalinity...>
I have read read read, I have asked a dozen people and no one seems to know or telling me what to do. <I'm not sure there is anything you can "do" - just something to keep in mind when adding calcium, acclimating your animals. A dKH of 20 is not fatal, but something to use as a data point for your other actions.
Cheers, J -- >

- Alkalinity -
I have taken a bucket of RO/DI water and tested it, the dKH is about 0. <That is what I would expect for RO/DI water.> I have let it sit with bubbles and a heater for 24 hours, tested it and the dKH is about 0. I have added salt to about 24 gravity, let it sit till all is dissolved with bubbles and heater for 24 hours, tested it and the dKH is 20!!!! <Interesting - what brand is this? Seems to me they are adding quite a bit of buffer in their mix. Not abnormal to add some amount of buffer, but this seems excessive.>
I am only using a Salifert test kit and yes I only have one and its new.  I could run out for a new one, but because the test shows zero out of the RO/DI, am thinking its ok.
Also,  every time I have checked the water in my tank, the dKH is 20 and all have said that is bad, the calcium is low (200) I add Kalk and it tests about 300. <Not "bad" per se, but something you should keep in mind when adding calcium. I'd lay off the Kalkwasser until you get to the bottom of this.>
Another thing, the LFS said that high alkalinity isn't too much of a worry, that his water tests out about 17. <I don't agree - high alkalinity puts you on the hairy edge of other problems, most notably a calcium precipitation event - most folks call it a snow storm. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm > Maybe it's the water around here and he uses a very very high quality RO/DI (apposed to my cheap slow one)
After all is said and done,  how much of a problem in a tank is high alkalinity? <Enough of one that you should use caution when adding Kalkwasser, and also take extra time acclimating any invertebrates to your tank.>
What are the pros and cons of this problem if I really cant get to the bottom of this. <Do read that article... will give you some good background.>
My tank is very nice, I have some mushrooms/star polyps/buttons. Tang/anemone/clown.  The rest of the tank tests perfect (except the low calcium) But all is living well and water is very very clear. <Wouldn't be too concerned about raising the calcium level with this list of occupants.>
Thanks
mark
<Cheers, J -- >

Alkalinity and Algae ID 4/12/04 
Hi crew, 
<howdy> 
While Ca level is in the range of 400 ppm, and PH between 8.2 to 8.3, alkalinity has been low for some months (in the order of 6-7 dKH). I added Kalkwasser and C balance daily and did 15% water change weekly. Situation remained same. 
<not to worry... it's fine if it stays steady. Coral growth will be better than in tank that spikes higher and is not steady> 
My tank is 100 gal, with 100lbs of live rock nearly all covered with coralline, a bit of white spots though recently. There are 14 fishes, many are small ones and kept for over a year. The big ones are a blue face, a juvenile imperator, a pacific blue and a purple tang. 
<Ughhh... a horrifying quad of fishes for a mere 100 gallons water. It is sad/disappointing to hear. Please do look up their adult sizes on fishbase.org if not our site and ask yourself if you/we can expect them to reach a full lifespan/size in a tank that is smaller than their cumulative adult potential length. Please (!)reconsider here my friend and get these bruisers thinned out or into a larger tank sooner rather than later. If it looks like they will not outgrow the tank after a few years, that's because they are stunting/developmental retardation. Not good. Rather sad> 
Water parameters normal - NH4, NO2, NO3 and PO4 all close to zero. Other equipment include a protein skimmer which is working fairly well (1/3 cup of dark skimmate per day), 
<also good to hear about its consistency rather than volume. No complaint here> 
5 x 54WT5H0 tubes, a chiller, and a overhead filter. I use tri-carbon based pelletized carbon, PH rock and right now bacterial to provide biological filtration. 
My questions are : 
(1)why alkalinity is low and any means to raise it? 
<perhaps its the nature of your source water (not buffered or hard/mineral rich enough> 
(2) There appears not much natural growth of macro algae. 
<because of the unnaturally concentrated fish grazers in the tank. You will never have macroalgae here. Consider adding a refugium with Gracilaria and growing it for them to recycle nutrients> 
The only species is the featherlike one shown in the photo which I transplanted from the overhead filter. Can you advise the name of the algae please. 
<it looks like the nuisance genus Bryopsis. Do a keyword search on our website form the index page at wetwebmedia.com using the Google search tool. You will find a lot I the archives about controlling this algae. > 
Regards, TFChow 
<best of luck. Anthony>

Dealing With Excess (Carbonate Hardness, And Nutrients)
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today>
I was wondering: If a saltwater aquarium has a carbonate hardness level that is too high, what causes this, what can I do, what are the problems with having it to high do to the things inside the tank?????
<Well, usually excessive carbonate hardness can be traced to source water issues. Careful dilution with unbuffered reverse osmosis water would probably be the course of action that I'd take>
Another question: What is the cause of  Blue Green Cyanobacteria, I have got it really bad in my tank? What can I do to get rid of it? Thank you. Please help Thank you.
<Almost without exception, blue green and other Cyanobacteria are caused by excesses of nutrients in the aquarium. There are many tried-and-true nutrient export techniques that we outline on the WWM site, such as protein skimming, use of high quality source water, chemical filtration, etc. All of these cab help! Good luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>

- New Tank with High Alkalinity, Other Questions -
HI.
<Hi.>
I have a 55 gallon tank, I am setting up a reef.
Prizm 100 skimmer.
70 pd.s crushed coral.
40 pd.s live rock, the tank has been running for 7 weeks, I think it cycled, not sure, might of missed it, is there a way to know if my tank has cycled. <Check for nitrates on the test kit - their presence means that the bacteria which fix ammonia into nitrite are present and as well the bacteria which fix nitrite into nitrate. That covers the nitrogen cycle.> I only have a couple of hermit crabs in the tank at the moment.
ammonia- 0
nitrite - 0
nitrate - 0
PH - 8.0 - 8.2
I use Tropic Marin Salt.
my question is that my calcium is at 200-250 ppm. (red sea test kit) my alk is through the roof at 15 meg/l, not sure if it's my test kit.
what is the best way to raise my ca, without raising my alk, and why do you think my alk is so hi? <Kalkwasser.> I think my tapwater is hard to begin with. <Quite possible.> better still should I lower my alk, and how do I do that. <Hmm... most methods are of the don't try this at home variety... really wouldn't worry about this too, too much. Perhaps just let that alkalinity work on the gravel and rock work to free up some calcium that way.> I know I have a young tank, should I just leave things alone? and things will balance out. <I would.> is there something other than Kalk that I can use? <Kalk is probably the best choice right at the moment, but the better choice is to just let the tank settle down - seven weeks is not really a long time in the grand scheme of things so I'd be willing to wait a month or two more before I test for alkalinity or calcium again.>
Also I plan on soft corals and some fish, what kind of lighting do you recommend other than halides (little expensive) I was going to get 110 watt compact fluorescent, and use my existing lights with 2 actinics total 40 watts. would this be enough light? <There are many soft corals which will do just fine under this lighting - fish certainly don't care - I'd go ahead and get those lights before you get any corals.> my tank is 20 inches high. If I were to keep hard corals how much light would they need? <Depending on the corals you select, you may need to at least double your existing plans and may also need to consider metal halide.>
thanks for your help, I find your site great, very helpful. I was into marine tanks about 14 yrs ago for approx 7 yrs but moved a lot and now I've got the itch again, and  do not want to repeat my past mistakes but to learn from them. so I am showing extreme patience this time around.
Thanks again hope you can help me.
Val
<Cheers, J -- >

- Alkalinity Question -
hi.
ok...
When I check the water out of my RO/DI, I get Alkalinity of about 1.0dKH/.34 meq/L -- Calcium of 10ppm (low as expected) When I add the proper amount of salt (very popular "Instant Ocean") salt mix my readings are : 20dKH/7.0 meq/L (guessing cause off the chart) -- Calcium 350
gravity of 1.025.
PH 8.5
why cant I get the right dKH of 8/alkalinity of 2.9 calcium of 425? <Uhh... I'm not sure that a standard salt mix such as Instant Ocean would produce a calcium level of 425. The difference in alkalinity would most certainly be influenced by the source water.> Should I not worry about it? <If I had animals that needed calcium, I'd worry about it in the main tank.> Should I not try so hard? <Not sure I follow...> Should I change the salt mix? <That's up to you - nothing at all wrong with Instant Ocean.>
My alkalinity has always been off the chart and I traced it back to the original mixed water.
My PH is 7 out of the RO/DI but when I aerate it it goes up to 8.3, just want to know why. <Perhaps a dissolved gas like CO2, which is unlikely, but would explain the change in pH after aeration. Hard to know for sure - perhaps you should get your water thoroughly tested.>
thanks
mark
(by the way, how many emails do you guys answer a day, just want to know)
<A few to a dozen... depends on the day and the number of volunteers we have answering questions. Cheers, J -- >

- Alkalinity Questions, Follow-up -
My point which you did not address is that my alkalinity is very very high and my calcium is low right from when I mix the salt until weeks later in the tank. <You did not form your previous statements/questions in this manner... hard to address something you didn't specifically bring up.> How do I lower the alkalinity and raise the calcium. <I'd try addressing this at the source water... reduce the alkalinity of that and work through several water changes.> my PH is great at 8.4-8.5.
my understanding is alkalinity and calcium work against each other so if i add calcium it would lower alkalinity. <They don't work against each other... in fact, they work in conjunction. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Do I just put liquid calcium in my tank? <You could do this... but must be careful. With alkalinity in the high range, you risk precipitating out the calcium if you add too much. Cheers, J -- >

- More Alkalinity Questions -
You mention addressing this at the water source....How do I lower alkalinity there?
<Would recommend strongly that you read some of the attached FAQ files on our site - many attached to that article I sent you last - these question are very common and are not so easily answered in a few sentences.>
I do use RO/DI water and the alkalinity out of the filter is 1.1meq/L which is low.
When I add the salt mix, aerate it, let is sit the alkalinity is 7meq/L which is high. <Understood.>
I do not add anything to the water besides salt, what is making the alkalinity shoot through the roof? <The salt mix.>
should I be adding Kalk? <No.>
the link talks about marbles, if I add calcium marbles, wont the alkalinity marbles be dispersed? <No... you misunderstand the analogy - all the container can hold is a certain number of marbles - adding more of one color or the other will not cause the extra to spill out. In terms of water chemistry, this is called saturation - once the water can no longer hold whatever it is you are trying to dissolve in it, it will simply not dissolve, it will remain as powder, dust, crystals, or whatever you want to call it. In the case of calcium and alkalinity, the calcium will come out of solution - a snowstorm - perhaps you've heard or read of these before.> (this is probably too involved of a question to answer here). <All the more reason for you to go through our site - they call these Frequently Asked Questions for a reason.>
I just want to understand this before I proceed adding fish, this is a new tank about 10 weeks old. Live rock, aragonite, cleanup crew. Ammonia0/nitites0/nitrate some/phosphates some
thanks for being patient with me <No worries - be patient with yourself - and please do read up. Much more knowledge in those pages than just this one person can provide.>
mark
<Cheers, J -- >

Maddening Problems With Simple Solutions?
Hello, and thanks for taking the time to read my email.....(Greatly Appreciated!!!!) :)
<That's what we're hee for! Scott F. at the keyboard today>
Here is the problem, well two problems.... <1> My alk is consistently too high 6.5 meq L-- 18 dKH and my pH is stuck at 7.9--8.0  causing serious problems with corals. ( make up water is RO ) I need to lower the alkalinity so I can raise pH...<2> I have an EcoSystems  Reefugium mounted above the tank which has gravity fed return into display. The amount of bubbles that it releases as the water enters into the display is entirely unacceptable (I believe its a 1 1/4 " return line). I have contacted them on this matter and they have no insight to the problem. Please help i am ready to dismantle it and start stamp collecting instead!!!!!Much Thanks in advance Anthony Pastorelli NYC Fireman  Bayside, Queens, NY
<Well, Anthony- please don't take up stamp collecting yet! I suppose a simple approach to the high alkalinity problem might be to either dose more Kalkwasser (which has the effect of lowering alkalinity over time), or possibly using some (gasp!) un-buffered RO/DI water when you mix your salt...As far as the microbubbles are concerned- I'd try to construct some kind of "baffle" under the return with acrylic, or even use the most simple of all techniques- employ some sponge under the return flow to help catch 'em...Just some thoughts, but maybe they will work, or at least inspire you to try similar ideas...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Dangerously low Alkalinity - 3/5/04
Paaaaaaaaullllo
HELP My ALK, is low at 100 to 120!!
I've dosed it with SeaChem's Reef Builder for 2 days and it's still low. Do I need to add a buffer? <A good thing to do> I have SeaChem's Marine Buffer. <Use it>
The reason I'm so frantic about this ALK business, is that my yellow polyps have been closed for three days! <Could be related. Not to panic but a good idea is to change the water every other day until it corrects. Read this article here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm> I'm worried about them. <Also, check to make sure your tests are accurate (especially since everything else is doing well.> Everything else in my tank (the inhabs) seem to be in tip top shape! <Not for long if the PH drops> Mushrooms are huge and wonderful, candy cane coral are thriving, Brown polyp colony is spreading, and all the fish are happy too! <Again, careful here. Your next few moves will be imperative. These article and FAQs will help: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm Enjoy the corresponding FAQs. This should get you on your way.> Why do you think the yellow polyps are not doing well?? <May be reactionary to the low alkalinity but could be just irritated by something else. Not sure why. Do a 25% water change tonight and maybe hit it again Sunday morning. Read up with the articles above and glance through the associated FAQs. There is a test smarty pants. Glad to hear from you, Pam. Hope outside of this issue all is well. ~Paulis>
Thank you!!
Pam

ALK crash - 3/8/04
Ahhhhhhhhh, wow! I'm a bit dizzy Paul. <Stop smoking crack I had to because of the dizzy spells>> Those links, well, I got through one of them, and I will say that I've read this before, probably at wet web. <Maybe> I printed it out too. <Add to your folder> Problem is that, when you don't look at the info every day, you tend to forget it, (like me!). <I see> It's pretty difficult to absorb all of it. But I'm trying. <PH, ALK, Ca are one of the more difficult parts of the basic reefkeeping>
I put in SeaChem's Marine Buffer, and I'll do a water change tomorrow. <Water changes are critical.> You know, I've been doing weekly water changes for about 6 weeks now. <how about twice weekly?> I really don't quite understand why I should be having such problems. <Sounds like somewhere something is causing the tank to lose the ability to buffer water.> I suppose I should add SeaChem's Marine Buffer each time I do a water change? <I would try not to add anything. Is the water you use for your changes been tested? What are the parameters? This will help to identify if the problem is in the "change" regime or if the tank itself is doing something to break the bond> And how about the Reef Builder? Ahhhh, I guess I'm not such a "smarty pants" after all. I'm frustrated! <Man, I understand. this totally sucks. One thing after another with this tank.>
I'm glad you're still around (not vacationing yet) <Don't leave until May 10 or so> although I bet you can't wait! <This is one of the bigger trips I have taken in a while. We try to take one trip to one of the Hawaiian Islands and one big trip a year (Palau the last few years)> (Don't blame ya!)
Maybe I should get a calcium reactor. <you could, I guess but let's see what is going on (at least to the best of our abilities)> I'm going to price them now. <Not a bad idea>
Thanks Paulo! <My pleasure.>
Pam

Fixing Alk problems - 3/8/04
Hey Paul, I'm at it again this afternoon, trying to understand. <good girl> But first, let me update you on my Alk prob. Today it seems to have risen to about 140ppm. How do you convert that to dKH? <divide your ppm number by 17.9 Sounds like you are within range of natural seawater> I've forgotten. <you know, I am not familiar with their line of test kits. I am not even sure what they are testing exactly. Here is a link to their website that might help. Do this test kits even have instructions? (I ask because some don't) http://www.lamotte.com/pages/common/techtips/convert.html>
Secondly, I'm using as a test device those 5 in 1 test strips by "Mardel". <Crap!> I'm not so sure about the accuracy, for the color can be a bit difficult to ascertain. <Again....crap> I DO also have the "LaMotte kit for testing the Alk and Ph. What do you think of this tester? <Not sure about LaMotte. Have no recollection of negativity but alas....I test my water at the Aquarium. ;)>
I'll test with the LaMotte as soon as I have a spare moment, you know, ballet at 10am. lunch, Bday party at 2pm, clean the house, etc., etc! <Don't know, but sympathize. The reason I am so behind on my wetweb responsibilities is because I put in a lot of work this weekend at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. We are readying our new shark exhibit. It is looking awesome......but sorry for the late response.>
On my Yellow Polyps, they're still closed!! <Hmmmmm. Likely has to do with decline in PH and Alk.> I don't feel good about this. <Me either> I WILL do another water change while the little ones at the party. <If you can/did>
I wanted to say that I don't dose with calcium, which seems to be one of causes of ALK depletion, <Could be> by adding too much <Oh?>, AND I am not feeding too much, this I know. <Good> I have been on a very strict plan for the past 6 weeks or so, doing weekly water changes, and feeding very small amounts. <Excellent. Algae growth slowed at all?> So, with that said, what else could I look for? <I will have to do some research.>
I have learned that Alkalinity tells me how well my water can neutralize acids. <Exactly> This much is clear. But it also states that, "water with a low ALK and a High Ph, is unstable. <Right> Why would this be? <Something taking out all the salts that contribute alkalinity (something is binding or utilizing these salts) Here is my needs and recommendation (I want in one email): I need to know salinity, PH and frequency of what you dose and how much also we need the units of alkalinity. (I think the LaMotte test kits will give you the units but I am unfamiliar.) So I would stop dosing anything. No Dosing!!!!! Dosing free zone. Change water 20% a week over the next month. My guess is your water will stabilize to standardized reef Alk and CA numbers.> If the water is very high in Ph, then there would be no "acid" for the buffers to neutralize. I can see that the buffering capacity would soon become depleted if the water was acidic. Can you follow my brain cells okay? <No. Forget about that for a moment. Start with the recommendations and we can go from there>
Well got to hit the road, I'll be back for sure! <No worries. Talk to you soon. ~Paul>
Cheers!
Pam

My Flame Angel Died
Paul,.....you know already the sad news. <Very sorry to hear> I honestly don't know what's going on in my tank. <Take a deep breath> Yes, my ALK was low <not as bad as you think>and after dosing for 3 days it has come up a bit, but is this enough to kill my Flame Angel?? <Not likely at all. Other reasons.....>All others in the tank are fine (well, except my yellow polyp colony) <That will come around but again......> it continues to stay closed. <Your tank needs to stabilize here> I have isolated this colony at this time with new water and totally healthy specs, including a very good ALK @8dKH!! <Awesome. You go...> What concerns me here is that my new aged water has perfect specs, where as my tank look bad. <Too much dosing. The tank water (volume as a whole) is damaged goods. Lets not dose anything and do regular water changes from here on out.> I continue to do very large water changes weekly @ about 30 gallons from a 75 gallon tank with 70 lbs of LR and 70 LBS of LS!! <20% is fine. 15-20 gallons is more than enough> What gives here? <unstable water. Patience and the like> I'm beginning to spin with the lack of sense this is all making. <You are doing fine. Just have patience and hang in. A learning process at worst> The cost of salt is beginning to become an issue and I'm still losing this game of life and death! <Give it time. The cost of salt is temporary for the time being. Move to regular weekly water changes of 20%. Hopefully that will help. By the end of the month the water will be stable and all will be right in your tank. Also, with you not dosing any more, you will save the money from the products you would normally have to part with>
What do you say Paul,............I really need some sound advice. <In previous emails and above>
Oh ya, b4 I forget, Jason Kim never delivered what he promised over 2 weeks ago. <Have you called him again?> Remember, my skimmer not skimming? So much for that, huh? <NO! Remind him. Do you want me to call him?>
I do hope to hear from you, as the last guy, "Adam" was no help at all. <At your service Pam. I am doing my best for ya. Sorry for the delay in emails but time has been short for me as well. Many pokers in the fire so to speak...>
Thanks Paul, <No problemo. Look forward to more correspondence ~Paulma>
Pam

Fighting the ALK, Ca, PH blues - 3/8/04
  Hi wet web guys, I have an update for you on my tank parameters.
  ALK   140 ~~using LaMotte <This is the range of natural seawater>
  Ca.    280 ~~using "Sera Products" <This low number is due to the addition of the ALK additive. So it is pulling the Calcium level out of solution.>
  So, I dosed the tank with SeaChem's Reef Advantage Calcium @ 1&1/2 teaspoons (in my 75 g. tank). <Stop dosing all additives. Change water weekly. You will be fine.>
  How am I doing? <Doing fine. NO MORE DOSING. Change water over the next month and watch what happens. I promise it will stabilize. ~Paul>
  Pam

More on crazy water chemistry - 3/24/04

DATE          ALK               PH                   CA             SALINITY      
3/15               8.9               8.2                  280              1.023
3/16               8.3               7.5                  280              1.022
3/17               7.8               7.5                    ?                1.020
3/20               6.7               7.5                    ?                1.022
3/21               7.8               7.5                  320               1.024      

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Here you go Paul, water changes still every four days or so. <Move to 5 day rotation> The numbers just don't hold as you can see the big drop overnight on 3/20. <All look OK except the PH drop. Keep the salinity at 1.024-1.025 and give the tank some time. It will be at least month before the tank chemistry becomes stable again. Just hold tight. If after a few more weeks, there are problems then we will need to revisit the issues on a one at a time basis>   Do you still not recommend dosing? <Don't does> My salt contains buffers, but they don't seem to be doing much good. <System is still diluting the additions of a ll your dosing> Should I add a bit of Marine Buffer (Seachem) to the tank water?  Or, "Reef Builder?" I can hear you now,..............."NO!" <NO!>
Oh, by the way, yesterday, when I was arranging rock to hide my powerheads, I found an old rusty razor! Could the iron from that hurt my tank? ,Of course you took it out right? I haven't heard of any long-term effects though>  Just a thought! Wouldn't it be nice if that was the culprit all along? <Not likely