Searching For The Sound of Silence! "Hello pet-fish my old friends..."
Hi , I hope you can be of assistance.
<Will try! Scott F. with you today!>
I have recently bought a new aquarium. After setting up the Euro-reef CS8-2 skimmer in my sump, the noise level is unacceptable. The system has 3 pumps , they are Mag 9.5 . The system is so noisy ( due to overflows that sound like Niagara Falls , dripping and splashing in sump and hum of 3 pumps.
<Ohh, no>
What can I do to substantially lower noise level, can cabinet floor be lined with rubber to decrease noise?.
<I have seen (and heard!) people use mouse pads, acoustical insulation, and other materials to do the job. You may have to check out a few DIY sites under "soundproofing materials">
I have yet to pick up a canopy as new lighting is being added but I doubt if the canopy will decrease the noise level from the overflows ( glass tops are in place). Aquarium is in my living room and one cannot even hear TV due to it's noise. Unable to sleep on floor beneath equipment as it sounds like a washing machine running over my head.
<I would consider constructing a "Durso Standpipe", which is essentially a cleverly designed standpipe that is designed to reduce noise. Do a search under the above and you'll find some how-to sites, as well as a site where you can order 'em right from the inventor, Richard Durso (the URL escapes me now...)>
Any help would be appreciated , the LFS has been little assistance. I see beautiful aquariums in magazines , how do people deal with the noise from equipment?
<Well, some noise is unavoidable-but you can utilize equipment that is designed to operate quietly, such as pumps (people like Dolphin Amp Master pumps- quiet and powerful...>
I have read so many of your columns and have never seen this discussed . Help, I am desperate. Sorry to sound so frustrated but I have just invested $4000 for this system.
<I understand! I think that the modified standpipe will make a considerable difference in the noise level by itself. Extra insulation and possibly utilizing a different pump or pumps can take care of the rest of the noise. Unfortunately, it may involve more $$$, but it can let you enjoy your system in peace>
Thanks so much. Leslie Conrad
<You're quite welcome! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

-Extra flow = extra noise? Try a closed loop!-
I have a 120 reef tank a mag 18 for a return pump with two overflows. I would like to know if a mag 24 would greatly increase the gargling sound in the overflow box.
<Likely, but you'd be taxing the flow capacity of your overflows.>
The reason for the upgrade is so I don't have to use power heads in the tank if possible. I would like to rely on my returns to do the circulation instead of the power heads.
<How about making a closed loop with the mag 24? The pump would sit behind the tank on the floor with the return T'd off back to the tanks (on SeaSwirls if you can afford them). You can make a PVC inlet with a couple of strainers to draw water from the main and hide it behind the rocks. If this doesn't make sense, check any of the reef message boards and do a search on closed loops, they're all the rage! -Kevin>
Please advise. Thank you in advance for your time.
Regards,
Cecilia

Puffer Trauma... another intake injury
I ve been referred to you by to very smart people.  Last night I arrive home late, to hear a loud noise coming from my 45 gallon tank.  When I tried on the light, my puffer was caught in my uv sterilizer pump.  normally he's around 4inches long, but when I first saw him he was the size of a baseball.
The pump caught about 2 cm behind his side fin, at first he was dazed and messed up, then my lion came out and start picking on him, well I solved that and the lion is no longer in the tank.  Its been around 20 hours, he still swimming slow but is now back to normal color, only this one side is all white, looks like necrotic tissue.
<May well be>
He wont eat and is apparently hurt, this fish means the world to me! I have a 45 gallon, with some live rock and only 1 small star polyp, other fish include small Picasso trigger, new yellow tang, and two damsels.  I have a 15 watt uv sterilizer, back pack protein skimmer and AquaClear filter, lighting I have 440 watt ice cap with VHO's.  Please help
Thank you very much
<The only real course of action is to keep the system stable and optimized, and hope... plus of course put a screen cover over that pump intake. In all likelihood, if this puffer is alive at this point, it will heal... though it may not eat for several days more. Bob Fenner>
David White
University of Michigan School of Dentistry
Ann Arbor MI

Bubbles in Sump
Hi Crew,
I have read a number of FAQ's on microbubbles in sump but not able to solve the problem. I have a 200 gallon tank with the sump (72 gallons) in basement. There is about a 8 foot drop for my 2 inch PVC pipes (2 of them) to run from the overflow to the sump so when the water reaches the sump it crashes and generates significant bubbles (almost looks like a foam). I have ordered an Aqua-C EV240 but not set up yet so I know the problem is not the skimmer nor any pinhole leaks in my return plumbing (that has all been checked). I have put a sponge and tried to put up a couple of baffles but my Iwaki 100 RLT pulls the water through the sump quickly and the bubbles continue to get pulled through. What type of materials will actually trap these bubbles or is there a way to modify my sump so as to capture them in an area and have them pop before getting back into the return.
<The easiest fix is going to be to add two micron filter bags to the drain lines. These should stop the microbubbles, but they will require cleaning almost every single day. If that gets too tiresome, I would modify your sump with baffles, forcing the water to go under and then over two planes. This should force most of the bubbles to the surface to burst before the return pump.>
Thanks in advance, Joe
<Best of luck to you. -Steven Pro>

Circulation versus Higher Temps
Gentlemen:
<<Greetings, JasonC here...>>
Firstly, I would like to thank the person that helped clarify my grounding probe question that was answered by Andrew. <<!? oh... perhaps Anthony?>>
My query today pertains to a pump that I recently added inside my tank. I have a 125G FOw/oLR acrylic bow. It stands 27 inches high and has three front panels. The two side panels are 12 inches wide and the middle section is 36 inches wide.
I have a sump that has a wet/dry, UV and protein skimmer. I use a Rio 2500 that returns water to the tank from the sump, with the bulkhead positioned on the bottom in the middle of the tank. While I noticed that circulation was vigorous on the bottom one-third of my tank, algae would build up toward the top. I thought that adding a pump inside would create additional circulation as well as cut down on the algae.
I added a Rio 1700 (with appropriate filter attachments) to the top right front corner of the tank. This created some nice circulation and appears to keep the water cleaner. The fish, especially the tangs, really enjoy the added water movement. 
However, I have noticed that the water is warmer. I am wondering if it could be attributed to the added pump. <<Oh, for certain.>> My tank is also against a west-facing external wall that does get hit by sun in the afternoon, and it has been warm in So Cal the past few weeks. <<That could do it too, but a Rio 1700 is a fairly strong pump and capable of bringing up the water temperature a degree or two or even three.>>
I have read some posts that debate the virtues of an inside pump versus
increased temps. To test if the higher temps are due to the added pump, I disconnected it this AM to see if I notice a decline in the temp. I was reluctant to do this as I liked the additional circulation. <<I say circulation and consistent temperature are more important - you didn't mention what the actual temperature of your tank was, so it's kind of hard to tell you if it's too hot, or not a big deal. Even if your tank was 82, it wouldn't be the end of the world - just so the tank doesn't drop to 78 at night, you'd be fine. 78-80F is the ideal range, but I would certainly take 82F as a side-effect of vigorous circulation.>>
Your comments and thoughts are appreciated as always. Thanks, Mitch
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Re: Circulation versus Higher Temps
Thanks, Jason, for your prompt response! And, my sincere apologies to
Anthony, as watching the NFL highlights and hearing the name "Drew" Bledsoe must have messed me up! <<Oh well...>>
I am sorry that I failed to mention the temperature. It is 82F to 83F during the day and seems to remain fairly consistent during the night, with perhaps a slight decline as evidenced by my readings first thing in the morning. I should mention that the temperature would approach 84F in July and August before I added the Rio 1700. The fish seemed to behave fine which would support your consistency theory. When the temp would get that high, I would have a fan blow over the sump which seemed to drop the temp by a degree or two. <<Yes, the fan-plan works well... I do this myself as well.>>
OK...please tell me if this is the correct approach. I will continue to run the Rio 1700 and monitor the temp. If it nears 84F, then I will use the fan to take it down a notch. But, I do not want the temp to drop too much too soon as this could be harmful for the fish. <<This might just require that you keep the heaters pumped up to 81-82 so that things stay nice and warm... or perhaps 'consistent' - that is the buzz word of the month.>>
Thanks,
Mitch
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Live Rock & Tiny Air Bubbles
Hi Bob,
<Steven Pro in this morning.>
Two quick questions for you. I just set up a FOWLR aquarium, 200 gallons, I run it with a 100 RLT IWAKI pump. I have noticed what looks to be thousands of very tiny air bubbles that makes the water not look crystal clean (it's been three weeks since set-up so not any detritus on the rocks or aragonite gravel). The flow from the IWAKI is very strong, don't know if this is what's causing it but I didn't want to lower the flow as I was told keep maximum flow.
<These microbubbles are generally caused by one of two things. Either the pump is drawing in bubbles from the sump or their is a pin hole leak in your return plumbing that is acting like a venturi. First, I would see if the bubbles are originating from the sump. Excess bubbles from the skimmer or caused by crashing water from the overflows are two main problems. If not, I would check each joint, smearing with Vaseline and see if the bubbles disappear. Once you isolate which joint has the hole, merely clean up and reseal/reglue the joint.>
Second question is I bought some nice (lots of coralline algae) live rock and have had it for about two weeks, it seems to be turning slightly white (dead looking in places). I run mini-compact lights for about 6 hours a day.
<I do not know if your lights are intense enough, but regardless I would run for 10-12 hours per day.>
Is there anything I should be doing to encourage the coralline algae growth.
<Maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels while minimizing other nutrients is key.>
Thanks for your help. Your site is great. Joe Jugovic
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Film on Top of Water
what to do about film on top of water I have two return pumps and three power heads connected to a wave maker for water circulation still have this film on top of water can find no information any where
James mills 
<You should re-aim some of your returns or powerheads for surface agitation. Also, take a look at your overflow. This should be effectively skimming water from the surface and eliminating this scum layer. -Steven Pro>

Loud Water Flow Noises
Hi all,
First, I would like to add my praise to all the others regarding this web site. You guys are doing an amazing job and providing a great service (Bob’ s book is great as well). Thanks so much!
<Thank you very much!>
I am new to this hobby and just purchased a 65 gallon tank with a sump system. After setting everything up, we turned it on and were astonished at the noise coming from a multitude of sources. I like the sound of running water (I have a fountain in a nearby room) but this was a different story. There was a very loud flushing, gurgling noise which (after searching on the web for clues) has been partially remedied with the addition of a vent tube at the first 90 degree bend. However, we still have a deep, gurgling water sound coming, I think, from the rapid flow of the water from the end of the exit pipe into the sump water (also possibly from just the water running through the piping). We have an overflow box which is filled with bioballs. From the overflow box to the sump, the water flows through 1.5 inch PVC pipe straight down 6 inches, bends 90 degrees and flows across for 16 inches before bending 90 degrees and dropping the final 8 inches into the sump. We’re running about 15 gals/minute through.
<About 900 gph, quite impressive.>
To quiet the exit noise, we attached a 6 inch piece of bike inner-tubing to the PVC exit pipe which extends into the sump water. The idea was that this would reduce the turbulence in the sump, and it does seem to help quiet it a bit. However, this requires the water to flow through a narrower path of 1” diameter as it exits (vs. the 1.5” PVC). Here are my questions:
1.)Is there a problem with decreasing the diameter of the outflow—meaning might it back up and cause overflow problems (the tubing isn’t fully distended when running and doesn’t appear to be reducing flow).
<It is possible to cause you problems. Better to use more 1.5" PVC.>
2).Is there a problem with harmful chemicals leaching into the water from the bike tubing?
<I was wondering that myself when you first mentioned its use. I would much rather see you use PVC.>
3).Is there a better, more effective way of minimizing the sound of water entering the sump?
<The use the air vent is great. Also, see if you cannot eliminate the 90's and use 45's instead. Try attaching a 45 right off of the tank and angle the water straight into your sump. You will probably have to move the sump around to fit it right. The PVC should extend into the sump water and should be vented somewhere. Preferably, right before the drain line goes into the water, insert a Y so that air can escape.>
4).Air is certainly mixing with the water as its exiting the pipe. Should I punch a vent hole in the 90 elbow positioned just before entering the sump?
<See above notes, a variation on your idea.>
Thanks so much in advance for any help you can offer. -Eileen
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Tank Overheating
Bob & Crew,
<cheers>
I just finished going through your FAQ's on pumps and was wondering if there are any pumps less prone to heating the water? 
<for starters, externals are less prone than submersibles>
I just finished my 180 gallon tank and can't keep the temp unless and my chiller runs almost continually.
<hmmm... you have bigger problems then... the pump choice alone is not going to make or break this situation. Do you use powerheads as well? They are horrible for adding heat to the water. A well designed reef has no powerheads ideally... just a large overflow system, a large external return pump and an adjustable manifold system to distribute and tweak water flowing into the tank>
My pumps are from Little Giant:
2) 5-MDQX-SC returns from sump
1) 4-MDQX-SC closed loop reticulation
1) Mag 5 skimmer
<this brand has been around for a while but their pumps don't have the same reputation (longevity). Still... they are less expensive than a super engineered pump (German Oases for example)>
Little Giants claims low heat exchange in their adds.
<hmm... do check the message boards regarding this... I don't want to be the only dissenting voice :)>
Thank as always for your time and input, Mark Johnson
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Re: Tank Overheating
Anthony, Thanks for the reply, I know your inundated with questions. 
<still our pleasure>
I don't have any powerheads in my system. 
<excellent>
It does have a close loop re-circulation system with a separate pump. I also install 2 slightly smaller return pumps instead of 1 larger pump. My local LFS recommended Little Giant and since the used tank I purchased had 1 new Little Giant, I just matched the existing. 
<they really don't have a great reputation for longevity in seawater>
After many phone calls and much research, it seems that these pumps are somewhat known for excessive heat transfer, 
<oh, ya!>
by some accounts as much as 3-4 degrees per pump. Multiply that times 3 pumps, that adds up to a lot of heat going into your system. I did order a Dolphin Amp Master 3000 to replace my return
pumps. 
<I haven't used the Ampmaster but have heard very good things about it being very efficient and running quiet>
I just hope people read this and don't make the same costly mistake I made.
<thank you for sharing... it will be posted>
Thanks for your help and insight, Mark Johnson
<best regards... (and yes... 3hrs later, still doing e-mail :) )Anthony>

Rusting Pumps
Bob....let me first, thank you for your time and effort. Your q&a is invaluable.. Now for my problem. Am I the only person having problems with water pumps which rust out? Just about the time I get everything in balance and my 125 fish/invert tank looks great and is thriving....a water pump or powerhead problem throws everything into trash. When my penguin powerheads kept having the impeller magnet rust....I went to the Rio ...which was worse. see attached letter to the manufacturer) I'm getting to the point that I want no mechanical water movement except for a new Supreme Mag 1200 which I bought and have yet to install. Please help me with your experience of which are safest. The hair algae which resulted is devastating...weeks of siphoning...Phosguard...water changes, with little improvements. HELP!!!!
>>
Regarding powerhead choices, mine (of commercially available brands) are made by Aquarium Systems (actually made for them), the Visi- series, and Hagen's.
The hair algae problem you might enlist a Lawnmower Blenny (Salarias fasciatus) or Mithrax (Emerald Green) Crab to help you with.
Bob Fenner

HOT TANK
Bob, I just got water in my 80 gal. tank, no lites on as yet, Iwaki 70xrlt pump, Rio 2500 in the sump running the Aqua C 150 skimmer...Problem...The temp is at 79-80 plus degrees. The Iwaki is very warm. So hot you cannot put your hand on it. Is that normal and can that be the reason for the hot water? 
I live at 7000 feet elevation and the weather outside is below freezing every night and 30-40in the daytime. The house is heated to 70 degrees daytime, 60 nighttime. What do you think?...Thanks, Robert
>>
The Iwaki is contributing the heat... and it is way too hot itself... check out your plumbing situation... and air space around the unit... you don't want to restrict the intake side of this (or any) centrifugal pump (non-close-fit volute/impeller)<They're made to PUSH, not pull>... The plumbing on the intake (front) side, should not be down-sized, restricted (as with a particulate filter... or even a trap) AT ALL... Do solve this problem NOW... fire, et al. trouble possibly here.... 
Bob Fenner

Valve on the wrong side
I installed a new Berlin protein skimmer using a Giant model 7 pump with a ball valve on the pump inlet to adjust the water flow. The results was a terrible slurp-slurp-slurp sound.
Can you suggest how to eliminate the noise? Should the valve be on the pump outlet rather than the inlet? Or, is this normal for this type of skimmer?
>>
Yeeikes... yes to moving the restriction on the Little Giant pump to the discharge side... as with all centrifugal pumps... don't restrict the intake side... lest cavitation and more problems.
Bob Fenner

External pump 
I recently upgraded my pump on my reef tank from 3RIO 2500's to 1 external Tiny Might pump. I'm getting great water flow but my concern is with heat. Not heat in the water but heat of the unit itself. Since I've never used an external before I'm not sure what to expect the Motor case is too hot to touch. Is this normal for a 1200gph pump 
Thanks 
Erik Martin 
Fremont, CA 
<Yikes, no... NOT normal and dangerous... either have someone who knows come by and check out your install (perhaps too much restriction on the intake side... or poor ventilation around the unit... or??? Or call the seller, manufacturer and ask them about operating temps. A clip on thermometer will tell you about how hot the pump is... but it should NOT feel HOT to the touch. Take a look over the pump, pumping, plumbing sections posted on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com and consider temporarily unplugging the new pump and sticking the old Rios back on... Bob Fenner, who would>

Powerhead problem
Hello again, I really hope you may have a solution for me. I have 2 powerheads in my 55 gal and I have had 4 fish deaths and 1 snail death because they are getting sucked up in the powerheads. I just saw one of my Banggai Cardinals just a few minutes ago. I took the cone off of the intake part to spread the current out some over a week ago. Obviously it is not working. I know reversing the current a little would help but then that cuts down on the regular current. Any advice?
Sincerely,
Lianne T Carroll :)~
<Either a change to other water moving mechanisms, or to fashion larger, more diffuse intake screens on your existing powerheads (put the current ones back on for now)... Look into foam type filters... to place on the intakes... some folks use pin type bio-balls... place live rock up and about these areas... at any length the intakes must be screened. Bob Fenner>

Tiny bubbles,... still !
Hi Bob Fenner !
I have worked out all the "kinks" of my tank and setup, but one problem still remains: tiny bubbles in the main tank ! I put batting material up against the overflow output pipe in the sump, just like you suggested. It DID help,... some. Most of the bubbles are actually coming from a small powerhead that sits in the first section of the sump, (which is not represented in the picture). This powerhead is used to constantly pull air out of the siphon part of the overflow box, so it is very necessary,....Oooh ! I could just set the powerhead in it's own, separate bucket of water or something, huh? 
<Possibly>
I just thought of this.
Pictures for reference if needed:
<<tank diagram.bmp>> <<overflow.bmp>>
I am thinking of just putting more baffles in the sump, which will be a pain in the @#! since the whole system is already set up. Is this a good remedy for the bubbles, you think?
<Yes... perhaps with a piece of open cell foam as a barrier...>
Also, I wanted to tell you that the live rock is doing great. No ammonia increase at all, and things are already, after only 5 days of really low wattage lighting, growing like crazy on it. There is some algae on it that is the brightest green color. Just beautiful !
<Ahh>
Thanks again, Bob Fenner, you're a really good person !
Jana
<And you are a kind friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Norman (perils of pump intakes)
R.I.P. Norman
the puffer fish we previously discussed who had undergone a battle with an AquaClear 802 powerhead. Norman was a trooper to the very end. I was bringing home a critter carrier with holes a friend had just drilled to allow him picking-free recovery.. but it was too late. Norman just couldn't make it. Thanks for the advice and help trying to nurse Norman back to life. I'll never leave a powerhead intake open again. It sure is trying to be new to something, you feel helpless when you lose a friend out of your own carelessness. Thanks again for all your help with my tank..
<Very sorry to hear of your loss... It is so that pump intakes account for many, too many such losses. I will post your message in the knowledge that it will prevent many more. Bob Fenner>
Bill Hammond