Tank Change... Centropyge sys.   4/28/08
Good afternoon. I was hoping to get some guidance on moving my Coral Beauty to a larger tank. She is currently in a 40 gallon tank
<...>
with a Pajama Cardinal, a large Maroon Clown, a Lawnmower Blenny, a very large Condy that the Clown hosts in and several polyp frags, Bubble coral and Colt coral. I now have a 125 gallon tank, bought from a friend with about 100 lbs. of live rock, 3 Damsels, a Spotted Grouper, a Cubicus Boxfish, and a Snowflake eel. Everyone in the 40 gal. is getting very big, and I'd like to turn it into a reef tank, so I was wondering if moving the Coral Beauty to the 125 would be better?
<Definitely yes>
She seems equally as aggressive as the fish in the bigger tank, and there is plenty of rock for her to pick at and reside in. The water temp. and parameters are almost exactly the same, but I add calcium, Zoe, Micro Vert and Strontium & Molybdenum to the smaller tank and not the other. I also recently moved my Diadema Urchin to the big tank, and two weeks later he lost all his spikes and died. ( I had him for almost 2 years : (. ) So how should I go about moving the Coral Beauty, if it is even a good idea?
<Net/s...>
I don't want to kill another longtime pet, I feel bad enough about the Urchin!
Thank
<I'd be moving, summarily. Bob Fenner>

Coral Beauty Transfer Procedure 03/30/2008
Hi!
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I thought I'd try something new...ask a question BEFORE I get into trouble... Last week I picked up a Coral Beauty and I now have him in a 20-Gal quarantine tank w/heater, Skilter, bare bottom and some PVC pipe for hiding. It's been eating like a pig. (I'm afraid to put my hand in the water; just in case). So far so good. I'm doing small water changes every few days; otherwise it's been a breeze. I now have to start planning the transfer.
I read in one of the FAQ's here that a FW dip was a bad idea for a Coral Beauty. So, I'm planning on moving him directly to the display tank.
When the LFS guy netted him out at the store, he sort of cradled the fish with his hand saying that the fish has little protruding fins that can get caught in a net. So should I be concerned about this when I transfer him?...maybe I should try an alternate method...like a container or a trap or something.
<<Yes, one of the more awkward fish to move. I personally prefer to use a tub to transfer this fish from one tank to another. I feel its safe, less stressful for the fish>>
Anyway, I wanted to pick your brain and see if 'just a net' is good enough or if there is a better way to transfer the new guy. I don't want to hurt it...it's absolutely gorgeous...and hungry!
m.
<<Thanks for the question, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Yellowtail Damselfish... solitaire, and Centropyge in a 35...  7/8/07
Hello WWM Crew!
I have a 35 gallon tank consisting of 20 pounds of LR, one yellowtail Damselfish and one Ocellaris Clownfish. About 2 weeks ago I added a Coral Beauty.
<Needs more room than this by at least twice>
The Coral Beauty has had no problems eating or interacting with the other fish. Today when I feed my fish, I noticed the Yellowtail Damsel wasn't eating. As I watched the Damsel, I noticed part of his lip is losing color. Any suggestions of what I should do to keep this fish healthy and eating?
Thanks, Ryan.
<Perhaps some sort of negative interaction going on here... And the Damsel is likely a social species of the genus Chrysiptera... live in groups... Please... read re these species needs (and all future purchases) on WWM... Systems, Compatibility especially. You need a larger system, more members... Bob Fenner>

Coral Beauty Hardiness- Location, Location, Location!   5/24/07
Hello Crew! - and specifically a big Texas "Howdy" to Bob, as we haven't spoken in quite some time. I need to drop him a special "line" some time soon and I still need to get to Fiji.
<Hi there! Scott F. with you tonight!>
I have searched the site for specifics on this issue without seeing it addressed, but being "timing/event" sensitive it is probably best to ask the question again anyway. So, please forgive if I am redundant.
<No problem...that's why we're here!>
My questions are in regards to the current availability/hardiness of Centropyge bispinosa, the beautiful Coral Beauty Angel, one of my personal favorites.
<One of mine, too- a favorite in one of my favorite families of fishes!>
First of all, knowing that you remain abreast of all
things salty, where are the hardiest specimens of C. bispinosa being collected currently that are making their way to dealer's tanks? Does one region surpass another at this time for exceptional hardiness over another and is there really a preferred origin with this genus-species as with many others?
<Great questions. I've been doing a lot of personal research on various Centropyge species lately, and I've been talking to some of the local wholesalers here in L.A., as well as shop owners and others in the know. The current consensus is that the hardiest C. bispinosus are coming from Australia and Polynesia. The collection practices in these countries are much more conscientious and yield consistently healthier, hardier specimens than those that come from areas such as The Philippines. Much effort has been put into training local fisherman into utilizing better collection practices (without chemicals, dynamiting reefs, etc.), but change is slow. Bottom line- at this time, I'd try to find a Coral Beauty out of Australia or Polynesia. Reputable e-tailers, such as Marine Center or Live Aquaria can help you locate specimens from these locales and others where better collection practices are common.>
I ask primarily because I feel that the quality of these animals that I am seeing today is superior to the ones that I have
owned or viewed 3 to 4 years ago. This may be an aberration or
coincidental to my experience but they seem to be far more robust,
inquisitive, and active at the LFS. I would like to think progress has been made and the industry is ramping up in terms of knowledge,
resulting in increased environmental awareness, and subsequently more acceptable collection, transportation, and transfer methods.
<Agreed...change is happening for the better. As Bob has mentioned often, we as hobbyists can "vote with our pocketbooks" and pass on specimens that appear to have been collected with chemicals, or from locales that have not embraced more conscientious collection practices. We should speak up and let our local fish stores know that we want specimens from reputable collectors/suppliers. Not always an easy thing to do, but it can and will make a difference in the long run.>
I ask because four to five years ago I owned two Beauties, one
immediately after the demise of the first (which didn't last more than 5 months). The second also succumbed after only a few months in the tank, manifesting the same symptoms - a brief period (less than a week) with loss of vitality, appetite, activity and awareness. They went down fast.
<Sad to hear...Many possibilities as to why this happened.>
Looking back, these specimens seemed to meet the criteria of healthy animals when acquired but comparatively did not display as much vigor as those I am now seeing. This 55 gallon reef system had already been running successfully, without the loss of any other fishes, for about 3 years - all parameters in check. It contained 70 lbs. of live rock, which served as constant forage and cover and these fish were good eaters of all other fare. There were no signs of any disease present or any harassment/conflict from and with mates, as well.
<An excellent environment for Centropyge species.>
This particular system is still running successfully, going on 8 years now. It currently houses a 5 year old Tomato Clown, a smaller Foxface of about 3" (which will need to move eventually, requiring larger quarters - YES!), an Azure Damsel, and a Yellow Dottyback, all healthy and getting along remarkably well. I am planning on acquiring another C. bispinosa and would like to know the current state of the species as far as origin, availability and hardiness are concerned.
<Just a word of caution: The welcome this fish receives may not be all that warm if the Dottyback, Clown, and Damsel assert themselves..!>
I would like to be armed with updated information when I enter the store. I would feel a sense of confidence in knowing that the order of things is superior today, if this is indeed the case.
<Again, I agree that there are many better quality specimens arriving today than ever before.>
Thanks, Crew, for your dedicated support to all of our efforts.
David Bell
Highland Village, Texas
<And best of luck to you, David! Hope that your Coral Beauty works out great! Regards, Scott F.>

Coral Beauty Requirements 4/11/07
Hello all,
<Hi>
Like any long time reader, I first must thank, praise, sanctify, etc your website and work. <Thanks> I have a 40 gallon reef into which a QT'd coral beauty was just placed after acclimation and 15 min FW dip w/ m. blue. <Good>  I felt she could've gone longer, but I didn't feel a need. <Usually 6-9 is better, gives a little more time for problems, Ich especially, to show up if they are present.> Within 10 min of being in the tank she was picking at the rocks and exploring the caves and such. <Good> He's eating prepared foods.  Though I read your guy's website extensively (and several others, message boards, etc) I checked the Dr.F+S website for a quick remembrance of the minimum tank size for a coral beauty, for which they state 30 gallons.  Upon doing more research later I found you guys recommend a tank of at least 75 gallons for this guy. <I lean more towards a 55 myself, but I wouldn't complain about a 75.> I feel like I'm in a good position to take care of this fish, as the tank, though 4 months old, was seeded with LR from years old tanks.  There is a fuge and aprox 50-60 lbs LR, TONS of caves/overhangs etc.  I like to feel that I am a
champion of maintenance.  I change the prefilter every other day, the tank is double skimmed with an 18" air driven (change the limewood diffuser regularly) and a Prizm which I adjust regularly to produce a cup or so of dark stuff daily.   Every couple days I baste 1/4 of the rocks.  I have about a 22x turnover w/powerheads and return pump.  No problems with nuisance algae, and quite a bit of filamentous stuff and 'pods for munchin'.
Other inhabitants in the tank are
1 2" ocellaris
1 2.5"cleaner shrimp
3 peppermint shrimp (one large that's carrying eggs, 2 small)
several Nas. snails (12-15?)
several turbo snails (7?)
fighting conch
There are also some corals in the tank
Monti cap
mushroom
toadstool leathers
zoanthids
There are a ton of hitch hikers -- tons of small filter feeders and sponges and brittle stars an spaghetti worms and Nerite (sp?) snails.
I check the tank specs 1-2x a week never show any nitrogenous wastes, pH steady at 8.1-8.3 temp 79-80.
I dose Kalk nightly via IV tubing (benefit of having a nurse as a fiancée)
<Nice>
GAH after ALL of that, I'm curious if the fish will need to go sooner rather than later.  I do have a 50 gallon FOWLR with a bit less great rockwork that's been waiting on a good dwarf lion in the area, so if the coral beauty starts nipping at the corals he can move over there. <Will probably be ok in the 40 as long as it stays lightly stocked, and if you start seeing behavioral problems the 50 would be good for it as well.> Also, I REALLY wish those sites were more consistent at getting those kind of requirements
accurate, seems like you guys could put some pressure on 'um, right? right? <I wish, the best pressure is applied with the all mighty dollar.> ah, I'll stop trying to excuse myself. <Heehee>  Anyway, I had originally hoped to put a 6 line wrasse in there eventually, would this be a bad idea?  <I think it would be ok.>
If I switched out and got a pygmy cherub or Flameback would a 6 line fit better? <Be fine as is in my opinion.>  Another question I have is if the nightly cocoon would function to help prevent crypt from parasitizing during the night. <Not to any significant extent, water passes through it easily enough, bringing the parasites with.>  
Anyway, thanks mega super big time for all that you guys have already done.
Wes
<Chris>

Stocking Questions -- 20 gallon Saltwater 11/21/06
Hello Team,
<Hey Tom, JustinN with you tonight>
I have one quick question for you. I have a well established (6 months) 20G saltwater tank.
<Mmm, still establishing>
So far I have tried to play it very safe with stocking. Right now I have one tank raised percula clown, a shrimp and some hermit crabs and snails. I have read some of your Q&As and seen that other people have mush more in smaller tanks.
<You may also often notice these against the crews recommendations...>
What I would love to have would be a Coral Beauty, and two Clownfish. I am guessing that it would be too heavy of a bio load but I would like know what you think. I have a very efficient skimmer and filter. Thanks for your time.
Tom
<Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your tank is, in my opinion, at least 35 gallons too small for a Coral Beauty. While these fish are much smaller than the other larger angelfish, they still do need ample swimming room and live rock to graze on. Perhaps you might be interested in some of the more comical blenny species (a personal favorite), or gobies? Keep reading, you'll get there! Hope this helps! -JustinN>