Plywood / glass marine
aquarium 11/4/09
Hi guys (and gals ?)
1st off, hats of to you all !
<Need mine on this AM... cold>
My history with fish:
I used to keep freshwater (mostly tropical) fish whilst living in South
Africa. The most amount of water I ever had in various tanks was a total
of about 3000lt, including a home-built 2,4m X 0,6m X 0,6m discus tank,
home built hexagonal tank (on the floor of the lounge) with a diameter
of 1,2m and a height of 0,7m, and a number of smaller tanks (built and
bought). I had tanks in every room of the apartment except the shower
and kitchen.
<Neat!>
That said, I am now in Greece, and wish to build a tank in a house. a
Marine tank ( ending up with a reef system ). I have read a lot on GARF
and even more on your site, as well as many others. Sadly there is a
fair amount of incomplete or misleading information out there, as I am
sure you are more than well aware of.
<Yes>
I am very much a hands-on person, and wish to build as much as possible
myself, as cheaply as possible to have as much money as possible for
good equipment (pumps, lights etc), and of course, tank INHABITANTS.
I found a very useful glass-thickness calculator (on the web) for
aquarium glass made from float glass. This I would use for my viewing
pane(s). The rest would be made from 1" plywood, or thicker if you so
recommend. Before i can even ask the question about single or multi-pane
viewing glass, I have a
question that I have not been able to find an answer to: What is a good
depth for a reef aquarium ?
<Functionally " a couple of feet ", aesthetically... depends on the
length and setting and "tastes" of the apprecionists>
Everything I have been able to find at this stage says something along
the lines of " If you have a deep reef, you will need MH and VHO
lighting " etc. But how deep is deep ?
<A water depth of more than 24" or so...>
I want to keep away from MH for a number of reasons, 1: the cost of
electricity here on an island, 2: the heat. (and the associated cost of
dissipating that heat from both the room and the water) Lumens per
gallon calculations have not answered this question to me and my
understanding of water. During construction I will be putting in a few
ledges to raise any species requiring a great deal of light.
<Yes... and with substrate added, likely 18-20" of water to penetrate.>
Another question at this stage of conceptualisation: Is there and
structural problem with having 3 X 1m viewing panes as opposed to 1 X 3m
pane ? I envision a 'window' like effect.
<Have seen this, these... I prefer the one panel>
Essentially there would be 3 tanks separated with 1" plywood (with a
number of 150mm diameter holes cut
through) all running off 1 under tank sump / skimmer / nitrate reactor
etc, with power-heads in each 'tank' for flow within the tank to avoid
dead water. With a water height of 800mm, and a bending strength of 19,3
N/mm2 (the lowest figure quoted by reputable glass suppliers), a safety
factor of 2.44 is obtained with 13mm float glass using the 3 panes, and
only 1.7 with a single pane, which is too low for me.
<I also>
I have seen safety margins of both 3,8 and 2,5 used on various forums /
BB's etc. Would 2,44 (in your honest opinion) by adequate ?
<Yes>
At this point I am still doing research into what I would need, (and
compiling a list) and will only start construction of the supporting
structure and tank once i have acquired enough equipment to start. This
may take a good few months yet.
<Anticipation is fun, enlivening>
Some (at this point academic) questions about tank inhabitants. With
careful packing, how long can 'beginner to intermediate' tank
inhabitants be expected to survive in transit ?
<In transit? A day or so with oxygen...>
Live sand / rock. I live ON the coast, when not living on the sea
itself.
There is no real industry near by, and defiantly no heavy industry for
more than 60NM from here - and even that is light compared to refineries
and motor vehicle manufacture. The ocean is crystal clear (Yes, i know a
bad sign) and therefore not much plankton. However the rocks are covered
in all sorts of growing stuff. Would it be ill-advised to use some to
seed the aquariums rocks and formations ?
<Mmm, not if you intend to keep local life altogether, no>
I will be making some formations myself (thanks again to GARF and
About(dot) com) . Live sand. Can I just collect a good number of buckets
from various beaches here and use that as my sand bed ?
<If you'd like. Will certainly be interesting; and a work-out>
Many thanks to all the information already available and any advise I
get.
When I actually get started I will keep you updated, as well (I am sure)
have yet more questions.
Best wishes
Jonathan
<And you. Bob Fenner>
Saltwater OK With Fiberglass Sealant For DIY Plywood Tank
Build/DIY Wood Tanks 10/14/09
Hello
<Hello Josh>
I was looking to do a 1000 gallon plywood tank build and as I look
online and read about it I only see these type tanks in a freshwater
application.
Can you use these tanks for saltwater?
<Sure.>
Is the fiberglass used ok with saltwater or is there an adverse
reaction.
<Need to be careful in choosing the resin. Some are designed for marine
use with algae
repellents incorporated into the resin. I would also use woven
fiberglass cloth in all corners for added reinforcement, preferably, at
least 9 ounce cloth.>
I thinking not but i truly haven't seen one yet in a saltwater
application.
Thank you so much and keep up the awesome work.
<I suggest reading here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diywoodtks.htm>
P.S. What are the differences in Fenner's old and newer book? Is it just
a second run?
<I will ask Bob to comment here. James (Salty Dog)>
Saltwater ok with fiberglass sealant for diy plywood tank
build 10/14/09
Hello
<G'morrow>
I was looking to do a 1000 gallon plywood tank build and as I look
online and read about it I only see these type tanks in a freshwater
application.
Can you use these tanks for saltwater?
<Indeed you can>
Is the fiberglass used ok with saltwater or is there an adverse
reaction.
<No. Once the resin is cured, the fiberglass covered... No worries. Have
done this myself, seen it in place many times>
I thinking not but i truly haven't seen one yet in a saltwater
application.
Thank you so much and keep up the awesome work.
P.S. What are the differences in Fenner's old and newer book? Is it just
a second run?
<Is largely re-written (and needed it!); the original I finished in late
1995... Many improvements in the field, and choices in livestock...
peruse both copies and you'll immediately get the gist of what I state.
Bob Fenner>
Plywood and Acrylic DIY 8/2/08
Hi there!
<Hello>
Have
mulling over the possibility of a rather large 96L x 36H x 36D
plywood tank which would be framed out like a house: 2x6 walls 1
foot on center with 2x12 for stand also on 1 foot center. The inside
would be sheathed in 3/4 ply.
<For the cost/future stability, 1”
ply would be more suitable.>
The trouble I'm having is in
resolving the acrylic front, the tank will be put together exactly
like an all glass aquarium sides inside of front and back all of
that sat on top of the bottom. All of this will be, as stated
before, framed out with lumber. The inside (maybe the outside as
well) will be sealed with two part epoxy
How do you suggest
sealing the acrylic to the plywood, I have read of painting the
epoxy onto the acrylic there by giving silicone something to adhere
to, but short of bolting which if rather not do for visual
cleanliness any suggestions?
<Skip sealing the acrylic with
epoxy, acrylic is basically epoxy! Placing it inside the ply frame
with silicone will be fine. I would use at least 1”, if not thicker
(1 ¼”) acrylic for this height/run.>
Any and all help would be
appreciated
<Welcome, Scott V.> <<RMF would like to
kibbitz here a bit, basically offer what is possibly
unnecessary/already known... just to make sure he understands that
you understand that the tank corners really need to be securely
screwed together... and that I'd use fiberglass tape in all the
corners...>>Re: Plywood and
Acrylic DIY 8/3/08
Thank you for your response,
<My
pleasure.>
I just want to make sure I understand before taking on
such a large amount of water, in my design with doubled 2x4's top
and bottom (leaving a 30" x 93" opening) would suggest silicone
inside (any special preparation i.e. Sanding) and then go with at
least 1" acrylic?
<You can sand the bonding area of the acrylic
for a bit more stiction if you like, this is still a weak bond no
matter what. The silicone will merely serve as a gasket more than
anything, with the water actually holding the acrylic in place
against the ply. Be sure to do all of this after the ply has been
epoxied/glassed/sealed.>
What thickness glass would you think
appropriate?
<3/4”, Scott V.>
Re: Plywood tanks, an experience builder chimes in with useful input
8/04/08
I look at this site most days, and have sent
questions over the years with consistently helpful advice (so thanks
to the crew). For what it is worth I wanted to offer some input to a
question recently posted by someone who is building a very large
plywood epoxy lined aquarium with an acrylic front panel using
silicone glue to gasket this against the front viewing frame. I
think the choice of acrylic in this project was for the strength.
<I thank you for your valuable input here>
"Re: Plywood and
Acrylic DIY 8/3/08
I just want to make sure I understand before
taking on such a large amount of water, in my design with doubled
2x4's top and bottom (leaving a 30" x 93" opening) would suggest
silicone inside (any special preparation i.e. Sanding) and then go
with at least 1" acrylic?"
Here is may take on this.
I have
built several plywood tanks, and lined them with tempered glass. The
plywood needs a coating of epoxy (silicone does not bond well to
bare wood). The opaque walls can be lined with 4 mm tempered glass
with color baked on the back. This is used in kitchens. You will
have the insulation and strength of the plywood with a permanent
color that can not come off, and a strong silicone seal. You can
have predetermined holes drilled before hand if you wish.
The
front panel can be low iron glass, called sapphire glass, and it is
as clear as acrylic. Tempered glass has 5 times the strength of
regular glass. There is a table from a New Zealand site that has
done the calculations based on height and width using standard
glass.
http://www.fnzas.org.nz/articles/technical/common_sized_aquaria/
The largest tank in their table is 2030 X 830 mm (90 inches x 32
inches) where they recommend a minimum of 2 cm (3/4 inch). Now if
that was tempered, it increases the strength by a factor of 5, so
even 1 cm would be enough. Height influences thickness more than
width. I epoxied steel beams 5 mm x 30 mm in the top horizontal
frame in the wood, and there is no flex or bowing at all a 120 mm
tank.
The silicone would form a very strong bond (300 lbs per
square inch in think), so a one cm boarder is just not going to
leak. You will need large tubes of silicone.
<Yes... "caulking
gun" size>
Yes glass is heavier, but in would contribute little
extra weight compared to the total weight of the entire tank once
water and rocks are in it, and will not scratch as easily. However
even tempered glass is not scratch proof.
I thought this may be
a better approach in a project of this type. Please correct me I am
wrong in some way. I just don’t think acrylic is the best choice
here.
Mike Lomb
<I too have built many plywood tanks... for
myself, wholesale and public displays... always with glass for the
viewing panels... as it was cheaper by far, more readily available,
and the best service for the intended function. Again, my thanks for
your sharing. Will post near the existing querior's mail, share with
ScottV who had/has been corresponding with. Bob Fenner> |
Plywood Tank 224 gallons 3/8/07
Hello first off I love your site.
An Invaluable Resource!
<Thank you, good to hear you find it so
useful!>
I am planning on building my dream aquarium. It shall be
fresh water with plenty of DIY involved.
<Nice, it is always fun and
rewarding to build yourself.>
I am just having problems with the
plans. Essentially I have drawn up some plans on GARF.com and this is
what they gave me.
<OK>
Tank Information:
Material = Plywood w/
Glass
Tank Height = 24"
Tank Width = 30"
Tank Length = 72 "
Plywood w/ Glass Thickness = 3/4"
Approximate Gallons = 224
I plan
on switching out the 3/4 inch plywood for 1 inc. They say 3/8 glass
in front I am going to go with 1/2.
<Smart move, the little increase
in cost does not even start to compare to the huge benefits of going
with thicker materials.>
Now I have a couple of questions.
Plumbing / Resin
First off the plywood shall be sealed with fiber
glass resin. Would I be ok using regular latex paint with 5 coats of
resin fiber glass on top?
<I would not, the resin should be bonded
directly to the wood.>
Or would it be better to mix a pigment into
the first layer of resin and keep applying regular resin after?
<A
better choice, the way to go here. The pigment in the last layer or two
will give you the best finished color.>
Will my Resin Have trouble
sticking on top of paint?
<It will stick to the paint, the question
is how well will the paint stick to the wood? Not nearly as well as the
resin.>
If any of this seems like a bad idea I shall just keep the
tank "wood looking" on the inside. There is no 2 part epoxy paint that
is available to me easily/cheaply.
<The pigment in the resin will
work fine.>
I plan on making two corner over flows. They shall be
constructed with plywood to match my decor. Use the same system for
overflows as for tank.
5 to 6 coats of resin and fiber glass. Should
my over flows come out the bottom of the tank or the back?
<This just
depends on what you need to accommodate your setup plans, it will make
no functional difference.>
How many GPH (Gallons Per Hour) am I
shooting for ? 2240gph?
<This will be quite a bit of flow through a
sump, but manageable through a 55.>
How many over flows and what size
would that equivocate to, 1 inc?
<Hmm, I would use three or four 1 ½”
or a pair of 2” drain lines for this flow.>
How many return lines
(1,,,1inc?).
<Two 1” or three ¾”. About half a dozen if you go with
½”>
The return shall be plumbed into a spry bar, which shall sit
above the water line in case of pump failure. My sump will be about 3/4
feet of head away from the tank and shall be 55 gallons.
When
drilling and installing bulk heads it is said to get the parts before
you drill to check sizes.
<Yes, I would.>
Ok then what drill thru
my resin install my bulk head then re resin around it? Or Drill , Resin
two/tree coats on the inside of freshly cut hole, and then squeeze my
bulk heads back in?
<Simply drill the tank after it is finished. You
can then install the bulkheads with the flange and gasket inside the
tank in this case. I smear of silicone will make sure the gasket seals
against the resin coating inside the tank.>
I just can’t figure out
how many drain lines and return lines. Slightly Confused. lol. If I use
over flow chambers inside the tank, I am filtering my surface water. Ok
but if I put a Drain/ Bulk head 1/2 way down the back of the aquarium
and my pump fails, I will drain 1/2 my tank onto the floor.
<The
potential for a leak is good reason to drill your drains higher up in
the tank. This will not be a problem if the overflow boxes are 100%
water tight.>
Not good ok but I don’t want to filter my surface water
10 times an hour and not filter the middle to lower 1/2 of tank. Any
Input would be great.
<The circulation from the return will mix it
all up, you will be filtering the entire tank.>
The sump still needs
to have the plans drawn up. But I am planning a Trickles tower ,
mechanical filtration, heater, refugium. Mag 10 pump.
Flexible return
tubing. Just to keep it all out of my tank.
<Sounds good.>
Oh
yeah, I plan on using 1 thin sheet of plexi glass on the bottom to
protect my finish from rocks etc. . And perhaps 6 in along the sides and
back walls. Don’t want my rocks poking a holes in the resin and joining
the soggy socks club. That is ok providing I silicone it on right?
<Yes, no problem.>
Once again you
guys are an invaluable resource!
<Thank you for the kind words Shane.>
Looking forward to hearing your
suggestions. Thank you ever so much Shane.
<Welcome, let us know how
it all comes out, Scott V.>
Some questions about a
plywood tank 3/10/06
Hey crew, excellent job on the
site. I've been reading for 4 nights now and am still forging ahead to
learn more. I am planning on building my own tank and such and was
thinking of the plywood type tank since it is the only one in my area
that really is cost effective and with the outer stain just looks
gorgeous. The tank won't be too large, 40"Lx20"Hx20"H (about 70
gallons) and I'm wondering what size sump I should incorporate and how I
can utilize the sump as a 'fuge at the same time.
<Posted on WWM:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
read through the linked
files above...>
I'm planning on a FOWLR system by the way. Is it
safe to drill cutouts for overflow boxes on this type of tank or would
it be better to utilize my Marineland canister filter to pull the water
out and supply the sump and use another pump for the return?
<Better by far to drill...>
Any idea how much live sand it would
take to put a 1.5" or so coat on the bottom?
<Add some, add some
more...>
I'm planning on putting around 70-100 pounds of live rock
in the tank as well to help the bio load even though I am still unsure
of the number and type of fish I will get (my wife and sons just want
'colorful', hehe). The guy at my LFS sold me a SeaClone 100 skimmer for
50 dollars which seemed like a good deal at the time but now I'm not
sure if it will be efficient enough or if I'll be able to incorporate it
into the sump/'fuge.
<Keep reading>
Any and all help will be
appreciated and thank you again for the wonderful compilation of
expertise and data.
Best regards,
Ed
<Please use it. Bob
Fenner>
Leaking DIY Plywood Aquarium II - 03/14/06
Hello
and thanks for the help!!!!!
<<Very welcome.>>
I finally
completed the tank below with your recommendations and so far the tank
has been holding water for nearly 3 weeks with no issues!!!
<<Ah,
excellent!...am pleased to hear of your success.>>
Now I am starting
to think about how I want to stock the tank and have a new set of
questions for you.
<<Ok>>
I will probably go with a community
FOWLR set up, but I am debating about a marbled cat shark (Atelomycterus
macleayi).
<<Mmm...>>
I have heard conflicting reports on size
for this fish ranging from 24 inches to 36 inches. What size should I
expect an adult to achieve?
<<According to fishbase.org, this
critter reaches a bit more than 27".>>
If it's larger than 24 inches
I will not get one.
<<Though your tank is a large volume (512
gallons), at 30" wide it is almost too "narrow" for this animal. Do
keep this in mind when aquascaping the tank and be sure to leave room
for the shark to turn around without "banging" in to things.>>
Also
I know not to mix cat sharks with large angels but how about pygmy
angels?
<<Likely will be fine.>>
Would the shark be any safer
with the smaller angels, or would they just end up being a meal for the
shark?
<<Though small fish are considered part of the shark’s
natural diet, some consider it to only go after sick/dieing or otherwise
distressed fish.>>
My LFS tells me this particular shark is safe
even with smaller fish as it feeds primarily on crustaceans, but I
question that in an aquarium setting.
<<Intuitive of you...yes,
aquarium life can influence/change behavior...but in this case, I think
most fast moving fishes (like pygmy angels) will be able to avoid the
shark.>>
Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks again!!!
Eric
Skikiewicz
<<Anytime... EricR>>
DIY Plywood tank
Finally, I found someone to answer a couple of questions. I want to
build a 180 gallon plywood aquarium and have bought 3/4 inch plywood for
the frame, but the tank height is 24 inches, width is 24 inches and
length is 72 inches.
<Mmm, I'd trade in the three-quarter for one
inch ply... much less bowing>
Not sure of the proper cutting
measurements for exact fit for the lighting <Mmm, what? Light fixtures
will likely be four feet in length if fluorescents are used... you could
overlap these>
and to order the glass which I think is 3/4 inch
thick, right?
<Glass or acrylic, with how much "edge" to it? That
is, the border wood that you will cut out for fitting the viewing panel?
Likely four inches or so... you could use half inch>
It should weigh
2100 lbs. But before I put the epoxy coating on can I use a wood filler
that is all season durability with one fill application for no
shrinkage, stains and sands will accept screws and is water and mildew
resistant. It is made by Lepage. Then can I put an epoxy coating over
it. Or will this be poisonous to my fish.
<The label should state
yes/no... there are epoxies that are entirely safe once cured>
The 4
by 8 sheet is still in my living room and I need to get it cut to the
proper dimensions very soon or I will be sleeping in the dog house.
<Trade it in!>
I never built one before and I can only get cutting
dimensions for the 140 gallon aquarium.
<Uhh, draw all out in
paper... make the two side panels fit inside... have top pieces (four)
fit on top of the bottom... how about braces? I would run two pieces...
four inches thick, on the inside near top (down a couple of inches) on
the front and back...>
I will need a stand to put this thing on
somewhere and all the ideas for the pumps and everything to go with it.
<Either get some help here... four by four wood and carriage bolts or
welded metal... powder coated...>
I am not very computer oriented
so if you could help me get this built it would save me on building a
bigger doghouse. Thanks. ASAP please respond!
<Read through
Ozreef.org for much more DIY input here. Bob Fenner>
Live Rock Curing/Holding System
<Hello, Ryan with you today.>
I'm thinking about importing live rock for resale and I need info. on
the best way to keep the rock. I would like to build my own holding
tanks.
<Before I get into your query- Please do your best to take
time and use proper grammar and punctuation. After all, these are posted
for aquarists to read, take note of, and search within.>
I'm thinking
about two tanks 8'x8'x18''to 24'' deep made out of marine grade plywood
and epoxy coated. One tank for curing and one for the cured rock. What
is the best way to heat the tanks? I know I'm going to need some big
skimmers, lots of sand, saltwater and some good MH lighting. I have a
2000sf. building to house this in so I have plenty of room. Any help
with lighting/filtration/heating would help out greatly.
<Ed, the
best thing you could do at this point is go out and grab a copy of the
Book of Coral Propagation, by Anthony Calfo. It's the best layman's
guide to building these types of systems that I have seen. 20 bucks on
the book is a drop in bucket if you nail this system on the head. This
is a pretty serious setup you're talking about, and I don't believe that
a quick paragraph of answers from me will suffice! Good luck, Ryan>
DIY large tank, system plans
Hi:
<Hello there>
I would like
to build a tank out of glass and plywood that measures approximately
132" length x 36" deep x 48" high. I have been trying to locate DIY
plans for a similar sized tank in the 1000 gallon range, but have been
unsuccessful. Do you know where I can find plans, or anyone who will
draft custom plans to my specifications?
<Mmm, nope... have seen ads
for such plans in hobby magazines over the years... in the back,
classifieds... You could easily piece together what's involved from a
cursory reading of WWM, other sites... The height is a bit of an
issue... I encourage you to consider switching the width dimension...
make the system three feet tall, four feet wide... to save on the
viewing panel cost, make it easier to work on, in>
I am quite capable
of building a tank myself, but I do not have the engineering knowledge
required to design such a tank.
Thank you in advance for any
assistance you can provide.
Rob Koblasz
<What aspect/s are you
wanting input on? Width of materials, modes of construction? Plumbing,
filtration? Gear? Bob Fenner>
Re: DIY plans
Bob:
<Rob>
Thank you for both your time and reply. I guess I have quite a
few questions relating to both the materials and the mode of
construction. Is it better to use glass or acrylic, and how thick should
it be?
<Either might well be preferable in different settings...
likely the glass will be less at the shorter height, the acrylic easier
to work with (much, much lighter), but scratch and bow more easily...>
As for the plywood, is 1" marine plywood sufficient?
<If braced,
screwed every four inches, fiberglass strip and resined in the corners,
for the three foot height, yes>
Is steel reinforcement necessary for
the dimensions I would like?
<No>
I have an acquaintance with 2000
gallon tank that is 20' in length which was built with steel
reinforcement every 2', but I do not know if it is necessary for the
tank that I want to build.
<Not necessary, but advised... especially
in an area subject to ground movement...>
I have researched your site
and others as you suggest regarding DIY tank projects and I do have a
rough idea how to do this. With regard to the height of the tank and the
changes you suggest, are there any structural concerns, or just cost and
ease of maintenance?
<Quite a few structural concerns... know that
for every foot of height such projects about double in cost... in
materials>
I believe taller tanks are great for viewing, and floor
space might be a concern with the extra foot of width.
<Mmm, I'd do
this... make a "cardboard mock-up of the shape/size of the proposed
system/s... the three and four foot width/height dimensions, and stand
it up in the proposed space... the three foot tall one is very likely
the route you want to go...>
I sincerely appreciate any additional
information you can provide as I do not want to make a mistake I will
regret when the tank is full. It makes for a much happier wife when the
water remains in the tank.
Thanks
Rob Koblasz
<I understand
this... as well as the (extreme) possibility of the thing coming apart,
perhaps killing someone. Bob Fenner>
DIY tank ? 7/2/07
Hello again!
Back with another question! I am considering building my
own reef tank. Mainly for practice, I want to build a very large tank in
the future. The tank will be 24 wide, 30 long, and 24 deep. Plywood and
glass construction. My question is the inside of the plywood. I have a
lot of left over rubber pond liner and am wondering if this can be used.
<Can, but I wouldn't...>
The aquarium sealant I have says that it
will adhere to some rubbers.
<Not well, or long enough to suit me>
If I put the pieces to fit and over hang each cut piece of plywood and
set in place before screwing the pieces together. Would it work sealing
the corners and glass with 100% silicone? My other option would be plexi
glass. Can I seal the tank with silicone?
<Mmm, not with Plexiglas,
no...>
Obviously, the silicone will have no structural use, only to
seal the tank.
<Mmm, too likely the seams will bend too much...>
I
really don't want to go through painting the tank and worry about
scratching through the epoxy over time. I have used the rubber liner in
a pond tank made out of plywood and am very impressed with its strength.
Please let me know what you think! Thanks again!
Rob
<Well,
perhaps worth experimenting... the viewing panel/s can indeed be
Siliconed over the EPDM/Rubber liner... this needs to be cut loose
enough to fit all inside surfaces... Shades of del Rosario's tanks
coming apart in the nineties! BobF, who wishes he too were "what was old
is new again" this AM>
Tempered glass for aquariums
Hi bob:
I have been playing with marine aquariums for about 30 years
and still love em.
I have decided to build a 300 gallon tank
96Lx24wide 30 tall. Bottom, sides, and back are 3/4 plywood backed by
2x4 framing on 12 inch centers. the inside of the tank will be covered
with a couple of layers of glass mat and polyester resin. The corners
will receive an additional strip. A light blue tinting resin will added
to the mix. The question I have is the age old glass thickness one.
calculations say 3/4 is the correct size. Would 1/2 inch tempered glass
work?
<Mmm, yes... if supported all the way around so itself wasn't
the structure resisting bowing>
it still about $100.00 cheaper than
3/4 inch. Could I use 2- 1/2 inch pieces sandwiched together still
cheaper than 3/4?
<No>
And yes the top of the tank will be
connected every 2 feet.
Your thoughts on this will be appreciated
R. Luckert
<If it were me I'd spend the extra hundred dollars for
3/4". Bob Fenner>
How thick is thick enough? (custom tank
construction)
Hi, I have read hours of great ...GREAT info on
this site!. I am building My own tank and I plan to start next week. It
will be plywood and acrylic (Plexiglas) the dimensions I would like to
build will be 96" long x 24" deep x 48" Tall, I have priced all of the
items to include the very hefty 1" thick sheet of Plexiglas.... BUT??
will 1 inch of thickness be ok? also will 1" thick plywood be enough?
The rest I can Handle through the outstanding idea's and instructions in
your site, Thank you very much, Sincerely, Michael Waszak
<Mmm,
well... if this tank's viewing panel were braced all the way around it
would do, but likely bow too much (to suit me)... I would increase the
thickness of the plexi and paneling if it will fit your budget. Bob
Fenner>
Re: How thick is thick enough?
Thanks bob, I
have decided to change the tank size to officially, 96x18x48. with the
4x8 foot plexi @ 1" thick. do you believe that the glass and 1 inch
plywood wood with these dimensions would cut down on the bowing?
<These are the same dimensions as listed before (for the building
materials)... the width (L X W X H) is not important here... the depth
is. The "answer/response" is the same)>
( the master plan here is
really a compromise, My wife Loves LONG! and I've always wanted a tall
tank....) She plans on lots of smaller schooling fish. fish turning
wouldn't be an issue (depth)......another question i guess would be
should I drop down to 96X12x48? i really appreciate the time you give to
help people like myself. I will send you a finished pic or 10 :-) oh
yeah..It will be braced all the way around!
<I think we/I am confused
here... the middle dimension you list is the height? You can easily have
this tank three feet (36" in height made of these materials with little
detectable bowing, risk of structural failure. Bob Fenner>
WHAT WE
ALREADY DISCUSSED~
Hi, I have read hours of great ...GREAT info on
this site!. I am building My own tank and I plan to start next week. It
will be plywood and acrylic (Plexiglas) the dimensions I would like to
build will be 96" long x 24" deep x 48" Tall, I have priced all of the
items to include the very hefty 1" thick sheet of Plexiglas.... BUT??
will 1 inch of thickness be ok? also will 1" thick plywood be enough?
The rest I can Handle through the outstanding idea's and instructions in
your site, Thank you very much, Sincerely, Michael Waszak
<Mmm,
well... if this tank's viewing panel were braced all the way around it
would do, but likely bow too much (to suit me)... I would increase the
thickness of the plexi and paneling if it will fit your budget. Bob
Fenner>
Building DIY Tanks
Hello there: I am planning of
building a plywood tank around 400 gallon, my dimension would be 84"
long 30" large and 36 "tall , I would use 3/4 plywood with 1/2 glass
or 1 "acrylic.
I also would also paint the plywood with epoxy paint
that i find at my local pool dealer (would that be ok) And also for
extra protection I would had plexi-glass on all the epoxy paint and the
plywood to protect against scratches and leaks .
Would use GE
silicone 100% pure or GE silicone for aquarium uses, are they the same
because the 100% pure is a little bit cheaper!
How is this sound for
now????
And also because the acrylic seems to be a little cheaper ,is
it better than the glass and would it stay with only silicone to attach
it to the wood -epoxy paint? And were can we usually find acrylic
sheet? Thank you very much for your help
<Ahh....much to learn and
much planning required here. 400 gallons is a heck of a lot of water,
best to pick one system or another, either ply with attendant support,
sealants, epoxies, glass or acrylic face, or all acrylic or
glass. Price is only one consideration of many necessary to be
successful here. Please do search at WetWebMedia.com for DIY
information on building your own aquarium. I also highly recommend a
good reference or two on this particular subject and the tech sheets for
any materials you might choose so you know the proper
thickness/tolerance for this much water in this particular dimension. My
best advice, don't decide solely on price or cut corners in materials or
information. Get all your info, decide on which is best based on need,
cost, ease of use, etc. Then build according to plan. Best of luck,
Craig>
Tank Construction
Greetings from Arizona,
<Hello from sunny Southern Cal.>
I've searched the net high and low,
and I still feel "lacking", perhaps you could answer this question for
me.
Can Acrylic be "bonded" or make a water tight seal with Plywood?
(can I use screws/bolts in the acrylic?)
<Mmm, not "bonded" at the
molecular level as in melded to other sheets, but can be drilled,
bolted, nestled in a bed of silicone... best on a flat panel with a cut
out if using wood for the structural component>
Here's my situation -
I'm constructing a Plywood Tank and I want to insert either an Acrylic
or Glass front.
Current Dimension - 96"L x 30" W x 24" H (approx 299
Gallons)
Plywood Thickness - 3/4" AC Grade Plywood
Glass Thickness
(IF USED) - 1/2" Plate
Acrylic Thickness (IF USED) - 1" (do you think
I could go THINNER HERE??)
<Mmm, half inch would bow too much for my
liking, appearances... 3/4" should be fine... if supported all along the
face of the viewing panel>
Waterproofing Agent for Plywood - Epoxy
Paint
Waterproofing Agent for Glass to Wood - 100% pure Silicon<e>
Waterproofing Agent for Acrylic to Wood - 100% pure Silicon??
<Yes,
100% silicone sealant>
I'm still in the planning stages, but I want
to make the "right" choices the FIRST time. I know the differences
between Glass/Acrylic and I think I would rather use Acrylic in this
situation, but COST is a factor and so is the "waterproofing issue".
<I understand... and have made many such tanks over the last three
decades>
Ohhh one last comment/question. IF I use acrylic, would you
recommend that I attach a sheet of Acrylic or Wood (maybe 3"-4" wide)
running the length of the tank on TOP of the Front of the tank for added
support for the Acrylic front??
<A good idea, yes, drilled, screwed
about every four inches... and such a brace on the back, inside sides as
well.>
Thank you in advance for any advice you might give!! Soren
<Please contact me if you have further questions, concerns. Bob Fenner>
Tank building questions
Hello -
First let me say that you site
is packed with great info. I have been reading it for days.
<Wow!
Glad you find WWM of use>
I like keeping large fish, and they require
large tanks. I have built several on my own using 2 part epoxy floor
paint over 3/4 plywood and sealed 1/2" glass to the front with 100%
silicone (usually GE door and window - never kitchen and bath as it is
mildew resistant).
<Neat, good for you>
Glass has become hard for
me to get a decent price so I have been working with acrylic. I have two
tanks with acrylic "windows" that are leakers. The first is a 360gal
with 1/2", the second is a 630gal with 1".
<Mmm, I'd likely try
resealing them...>
I have been talking to people about this for
months and I think the problem is the sealant. Silicone doesn't bond to
acrylic very well.
Options that I have come up with are drilling the
acrylic and frame every 4-6" and bolting it in place, or looking for a
better sealant. The better sealant I have found is Sikaflex. It is used
on boats to seal windows at depths up to 10'. My original plan was the
bolting but the acrylic shop recommended against it as it could stress
the acrylic on the holes. What do you suggest?
<Hmm, how tall are
these tanks? I would likely drill and screw the acrylic, coating over
the hardware in the tank with two-part water-proof epoxy, cut away the
existing 100% silicone, let it dry for a day or two... wipe the surface
down with an organic solvent (we used to use toluene, xylene...) in a
well-ventilated setting... and then re-apply a nice, thick bead of
silicone... maybe "feathering it out" with a plastic trowel (small ones
available at Home Depot, Lowe's...). IF the tanks are only a couple (as
in two) feet tall or so... Otherwise, I'm a bit nervous given the width
of the wood and acrylic sheets myself. BTW, do look into used glass...
especially "old glass doors" for your "humungo tanks"... sometimes these
are available from companies that take down old buildings... for very
little money>
For sealing the wood I have been using 2 part epoxy
floor paint. I have been looking at using fiberglass. What are your
thoughts on this? Epoxy or Polyester resin? Should I cover the tank with
fiberglass mats or just pour the resin and hardener on?
<I have made
many (hundreds) of tanks for science and industrial purposes using
fiberglass cloth stripping (you can buy it as such... I would), and
polyester resins... mix the hardener (likely MEK based) with the resin/s
as instructions call for (do allow for temperature, time...) and lots of
air circulation (have had the worlds worst "highs"/headaches from
breathing in too much, too long... One coat, wetting the inside corners
first, then apply cloth... wear clothes you really don't like, intend to
keep... gloves... Have someone there to help "hand" you things...>
I'm also planning a large tank of about 16' long, 4' deep (with 30"
window), and 6' wide. Should I go to cement for something this large?
<I would consider this approach... and gel-coated fiberglass shells,
spun-cast polyethylene forms you might cut out, place a viewing panel
in... Bob Fenner>
Thanks, John
Re: tank building questions
Thanks for the fast reply.
The current tanks are 2' deep (360gal) and
3' deep (630gal). I like the idea of using the screws/bolts.
<Do
apply another 3/4 sheet to the front/face of the 3' deep tank for
strength/rigidity... I would drill pilot holes every six inches use 2 or
if you can find them 2 1/4" brass screws, counter-sink the heads in the
acrylic...>
What size would I need and how often do I need to bolt
(i.e. every 4"?) I think the acrylic is thick enough. There is no
bowing. The acrylic over hangs onto the tank by about 5" either side.
Again, Thank you for the help. John
<Perhaps you should consider a
career in the public aquarium exhibit design, fabrication business?
Please take a look at the book reviewed here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/afascfishpowell.htm
Know you would enjoy,
gain by reading it. Bob Fenner>
Suitable Epoxy Paint for
Plywood Aquariums
Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service while
Bob travels>
I've been looking over your fine website and have not
yet been able to pin down any brand names for epoxy (or otherwise) paint
to seal plywood tanks. I've made inquiries to various paint dealers here
in Kansas City and they're all very gun-shy about selling epoxy paint
for an aquarium--Sherwin-Williams wants me to have a meeting with the
tech rep before they'll sell it to me! Thanks for any assistance! Mark
Lynn
<Mark... for smaller aquaria under 200 gallons, tub&tile epoxy
(advertised as Baby safe once cured) is commonly used in aquaria.
Available from your local DIY store, it is convenient if not
inexpensive. For a larger project, I would take the paint rep up on the
offer to protect your investment. You'll want to avoid paints with
anti-fouling agents in them (for mold and mildew...very toxic to
aquatics). Best regards, Anthony>
Suitable Epoxy Paint for
Plywood Aquariums II
Thanks--the tanks I'm working with are
around 100 gallons. Is this a paint
used for repairs to tubs, etc?
MRL
<exactly, my friend. For cement laundry/wash tubs and the like.
You may be a little restricted by popular home decor colors (grey, tan,
white, black) but as long as it says Baby safe when cured as most do,
you will be fine. Even if it doesn't you are likely safe if you are
willing to test. Worst case scenario is you have to give another good
coat over it. Best regards, Anthony>
Suitable Epoxy Paint for
Plywood Aquariums III
Thanks, Anthony--I'll check out Lowe's and
Home Depot tomorrow. I've also considered lining them with countertop
laminate ($2.00/sq ft) and sealing the joints with silicon. I'll do some
price comparison and go from there. Thanks again, Mark
<For what it
is worth... I have used Olympic brand swimming pool paint in concrete
ponds and know that they at least have a product that is fish safe. I'm
just not sure if it adheres to wood as well. It was designed for
concrete applications specifically.>
Suitable Epoxy Paint for
Plywood Aquariums IV
I tried some UGL --formulated for concrete--
it seemed to work fine for several months, then I got a small leak. It
looks like the paint cracked along some grain lines and the plywood got
soaked. I let it dry for a couple of weeks, the gave it another couple
of coats. Worked fine for a couple of weeks--until I added the rock--I
think the extra weight of the rock caused the wood to flex just enough
to make the paint crack again. MRL
<Ahhh.. yes, thank you. I'll
remember that for the next query on the subject. We'll stick to ponds
with it <wink>.>
I used the wrong Silicone sealant
Hi Bob, I was just reading
the articles on "One hundred percent Silicone... no mildewcides,
other additives" under Building your own tanks, enclosed is a
picture of the tank setup I made using 3/4 marine ply oak faced,
then fiber glassed, epoxy painted and then I used silicone for Bath
and Kitchen.
<To just place the viewing panel?>
It of coarse
made me sick when I read the thread on mildewcides. My question is
the equipment, base rock and live rock which was in this tank , I
have the rock in a new tub with fresh saltwater "hoping" and the
equipment has been clean completely What is your feeling on any of
these items being reused in another tank ?? Thanks Tony
<Mmm,
should be fine. But I encourage you to cut away the exposed sealant
and silicone over the old with 100% if/when you have all out of this
aquarium. Bob Fenner> |
 |
Re: I used the wrong Silicone sealant
Hi Bob,
Yes the viewing
area as well as a skim coat over the rest
<Really? Over the rest?
I/we've made a bunch of wood, fiberglass and resin tanks over the
years... if a couple of feet or less in height we only applied strip
(can be bought as such, thank goodness) cloth and applied in corners...
applying resin (and hardener natch) over all...)>
:( I'm thinking of
lining the rest with glass which is the way I should of gone in the
first place . It certainly wasn't a cheaper way to go doing it the way I
did "Could of bought two 180gals by now" heehee But live and learn.
Thanks for the info awesome site by the way, I wish I'd of know of it
before my giant screw up. The size of the tank is 30"HX30"WX96"L forgot
to include that last email. Again Much Thanks Tony
<Thanks for the
follow-up... Silicone is almost impossible to get anything to "paint
over", stick to it... Your suggestion might be the best... alternatively
you might save some money using very thin acrylic sheet in its place.
Good luck, life. Bob Fenner> |
Custom Aquarium
Bob,
I am building myself a custom aquarium. It will be 100"Lx 48"H x
42". The back, bottom, and sides will be made of pre-laminated 1"
plywood. All the seams will be reinforced on the outside with Steel
Angles. The front, viewing area, will be a sheet of 1" prelaminated
plywood with a window 92"L
x 44"H and a 96"x48" sheet of glass
"siliconed" to the inside of the "window". Finally there will be 3
evenly spaced 3" cross ties tying the front of the tank to the back. I
am struggling with determining the thickness of the glass. Is 1/2
sufficient or should I go with the 3/4? Any insight you can give would
be
greatly appreciated.
<I would spend the extra money on the
thicker glass... Look into some of the fancy laminated brands (Starbrite
for instance)... as these may be fine at 1/2", though not cheaper than
3/4" cast... Bob Fenner>
Please respond to my home email address.
Thanks, Mike
Re: Glass Weight
Steven, Good link RE glass
thickness, tank building etc.
<You are welcome.>
What is your
opinion on building plywood - glass tanks? It just seems too easy and
cheap to be true.
<I have had the same thoughts.>
If I thought I
could make it from plywood in this manner, I would construct something
in the order of 6x3x30"....... do you think they are a good idea?
<I
don't know. There are a lot of people on GARF that have built similar
tanks. You should look at their plans and experiences regarding.>
Cheers, Matt
<Good luck! Please report back with your results.
-Steven Pro>
DIY Glass Tank
Hi Steven,
Thanks for the
reply Re the maculosus angel.
<You are quite welcome!>
Quick
question..... do you know a site where to read up on DIY all glass tanks
etc, design including how to calculate the weight of glass required
etc.....
<I would look at http://www.ozreef.org/ They have a ton of
DIY plans and links to other peoples' plans.>
Cheers, Matt
<Have a
nice weekend! -Steven Pro>
Plywood Tanks
What is the
best way to clean algae off of plywood epoxy sealed tanks and also
acrylic fronts without scratching it?
<There are special acrylic safe
cleaning supplies available from any fish store. The wood is another
matter. I doubt anything in reason would scratch it. I would not use
metal razor blades for sure, but any standard aquarium scrubbing
material should be ok. -Steven Pro>
Plywood tank
Hi
guys..
<A.J.>
Thanks for putting your time and resources into
the best aquatic information website ever...So many of my questions have
been answered (some I didn't even know I had) by happily perusing the
posts on your web site. I do have a question I could not find answered
anywhere though...
<Okay>
I am planning on building a large
plywood tank and do have some experience building them, as well as glass
and acrylic tanks/sumps etc. I think I have looked at every plan
available that I could and that find that many of them are structurally
sound and tested methods. The main problem I see with building these
tanks is of course sealing the non glass portion of these tanks. There
are many methods the best I've used being several layers of epoxy or
fiberglass resin, all of these work for sealing the wood but are very
labor intensive.
<I've used a few methods with plywood constructed
tanks... like wood-glue or such jointing of corners along with good
metal screws, then pre-made rolls (usually four inches wide) resined
into the inside joints...>
I had an idea, as yet untested that I
thought I'd run by you. Basically it consists of structuring the plywood
box with a glass front, but instead of sealing the inside with epoxy,
line it with a 1/8 inch layer of acrylic or pvc. structurally this thin
layer would do nothing. It is only to seal the wood. this would have the
advantage of being easily drilled for overflow/bulkhead fittings. The
obvious problem I see is what to do the actual sealing of the front
glass to the acrylic sides and bottom. I don't think silicone will do
the trick. Do you know of any kind of sealant product that will adhere
to both glass and acrylic well enough to be used in this type of
application?
<I don't... though if you use PVC sheet instead
(cheaper, and just as strong, serviceable for what you have in mind
here), there are reasonable "welding" options for making the "shell"
within the plywood/structural box as you describe... BTW there have been
a few companies that fabricated tanks in a similar fashion (Aqua Decor
and their mainly "bubble" tanks, our old company's Nature Etc, Inc. spun
polyethylene tanks within furniture stands... They can/do work>
Please tell me if you think this is impossible so I can get it out of my
head, Thanks.
A.J. Ginther
<Look into the PVC sheeting
possibility... a few folks use this material as a stand alone structural
component (Quality Marine in Los Angeles most innovatively). Bob Fenner>
Re: Plywood tank
Thanks for the reply..
<Welcome>
Am I
understanding this correctly? Are you suggesting I do the whole inside
with pvc including the front piece, or are you saying I can adhere a
front glass panel to the inner pvc panels somehow?
<The latter. The
glass/viewing panel (acrylic if you want) can be nestled into a bead of
silicone, against the PVC sheet, with the PVC sheet in turn being
supported (all but the cut-out for the glass) by the structural frame>
I looked at clear pvc panels for the front and they are a little pricey
for my needs. I already have the glass.
<Look at the opaque
sheets... you don't need the clear... and shop around (maybe online) for
larger distributors. They're much cheaper. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again
A.J. Ginther
