Feedback: RF flatscreen interference 6/27/09
Hey, all !
<Kent>
No question, just FYI feedback.
<Ok>
I had written in a few months ago with questions & concerns dealing with heat/humidity and RF interference when mounting a flatscreen TV directly above my intended 90 gal reef tank. You thought the setup would most likely be ok.
<Yes>
Due to the very small size of my house and living room, to be able to get back into the hobby, this mounting setup was my only viable option.
It is up and running(finally!!). I have a 50"plasma, cable TV reception-pre and post converting to digital broadcast. It is in extremely close proximity to my 2 250w HQI MH and 2 54w actinic HO lighting(1'-3' distance), with the ballasts for each, just below the tank.
I have zero RF interference issues. The only precaution I took was to install those round magnets around the power cables that were supplied with my TV(can get at Radio Shack, also).
<I see>
Heat and humidity? Was taken care of by mounting a 50" long x 18" tall sheet of thin Lexan or acrylic to the wall just below the TV, and then attaching a thin piece of black plastic mounted from my canopy( canopy necessitated by being directly under TV), extending the 10" back to the Lexan, which, when you push the canopy back, contacts and makes a seal. A canopy fan inside the canopy blows the hot, moist air out the back, but must divert to the ends of the canopy and go around the TV, instead of flowing straight up into the TV.
<Reads like a very good design>
So far, zero issues with this set-up. Plus I'm able to maintain 80-81 ½ deg. water temp. with only the canopy fan(runs constant), and another fan over the sump(runs when MH are on).
Yes, the TV is considerably higher on the wall than I'd have if there was no tank. And It's taken some getting used to, but I find myself watching the tank much more than the TV, anyhow. Those fishes got more reality shows going on than any TV could come up with.
Any questions or more details, feel free to contact me at kent.warren@XXXX, thanks for listening.
Have a great weekend!
Kent Warren
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Controlling Humidity and Using Substrate from an Existing Tank – 05/09/09
I have several salt water aquariums and I moved them into my basement last year. A 90 gallon with a 35 gallon refugium, a 12 gallon, a 20 gallon, two 10 gallons and my RO/DI water has a loose fitting lid. Only one of the 10 gallons has a lid. Since then, I have had huge moisture problems with evaporation, humidity and even a mold outbreak in the summer when it is extremely humid,
<<Mmm, I see… It sounds as if you don’t have enough air-exchange/enough fresh air circulating through the basement>>
I am in Chicago and the humidity can be high during the summer.
<<I live in South Carolina…so I do understand about “humidity”>>
Currently, I run a dehumidifier almost nonstop. The dehumidifier has a bucket so I empty the bucket at least once a day.
<<Indeed… But it sounds like rather than “collecting” the moisture and keeping it in the room (to evaporate to the air yet again) until disposed, that you need a means of pulling the moist air “out” of the room…preferably “exchanged” with dried/drier air…but just exhausting the super-saturated air from the room and letting it be replaced “naturally” (e.g. – from the other rooms of the house) should provide some measure of relief>>
So summer is coming fast and I need to change things.
<<Agreed…the mold is nothing to ignore>>
I got a different container for my RO/DI water with a tight fitting lid
<<Do be sure to add some aeration/water movement to blow off CO2>>
and I got rid of one of my 10 gallons. I purchase an air conditioner dehumidifier that vents outside getting rid of its accumulated moister.
<<Ah! An excellent move>>
I am going to get rid of two more tanks the remaining 10 gallon, and either the 20 or the 12 gallon.
<<Will also help…but may prove unnecessary with better ventilation of the room>>
I want to keep the remaining 20 or 12, but I am going to move the one I keep to the main level of my home. I am leaning to the 20 gallon because it has a 65 gallon Coralife Supper Skimmer. Any other suggestions to control humidity?
<<You are on the right track (removing the excess moisture-laden air from the room). I have a 500g (en toto) reef system I built in to the wall between my living room and dinning room. One of my concerns during planning/construction was accumulated moisture in such a confined space…especially during the very long humid months here in SC. My solution was to install a “bathroom” exhaust fan in the ceiling above the tank that vents to the outside of the house. I have it on a thermostat, but even so it runs pretty much 24/7. This has proven effective for more than 5-years now>>
Also, can I use the sand from 12 gallon nano-cube with has 1 inch to a 1 ½ sand bed in my 20 gallon?
<<Sure… Be aware there will be some die-off of the in-fauna just from the movement/re-layering of the bed and monitor for any spikes in Nitrogenous compounds re>>
The 20 gallon has a shallow sand bed and so does my 90 gallon, the refugium has a sand bed over Miracle Mud. Any ideas would be great, but money is tight for the next 12 to 18 months.
<<Reuse the sand…just be aware of its pitfalls…though I think with the amount/depth you list, the risk is slight. Regards, Eric Russell>>

Mounting A Flat Screen TV Over My Saltwater Tank 2/11/09
Space is at a premium in my current house for adding a saltwater tank.
Moving my 48" flatscreen TV from a stand to a wall mount seems my best choice (space-wise), and putting a 75-110 gallon saltwater below it.
However, I've read it's recommended to mount a sheet of Lexan to the plaster behind the tank to prevent salt vapors from doing harm to the plaster.
<I've always had a tank against a wall (35+ years) with no visible damage to the plaster or drywall.
As long as no air stones are used in the tank and a glass top is fitted, damage to the wall should not be an issue.>
Which leads me to ask if these vapors would also destroy my flatscreen mounted directly above the tank (is there a minimum distance recommended?),
<First, if you have a wood canopy, you will need to put some sort of stop on the hood so it
isn't going to be resting on your flat screen when you are feeding/servicing the tank.
Secondly, if MH lighting is used, I would not mount the cooling fans on the top of the cabinet.
Exhaust from the air above the water's surface may cause some damage to your flat screen and internal components. As to the TV's height above the tank, I would shoot for 18" if you have to room and the tank isn't too tall. I'd shop for a tank with an 18" maximum height. Is better to have more length/width than height, creates more air/gas exchange per gallon of water. A tank size of 60" x 18" x 18" is available.
Other than what I have mentioned, I see no problems other than the fact the tank lights would have to be off to watch TV, would be too distracting.>
and would the lighting choice (MH?) affect the cable reception?
<If the proper cable is used, it should not affect reception. Reputable cable installers will use RG6 cable which has a very high noise rejection rate and is the cable of choice for HDTV. If your home is prewired to wall plates, I'd make sure RG6 is being used and not RG59 which was used in the past. Not only is the rejection rate lower in the RG59, but the lower bandwidth of the cable will reduce HDTV performance. The cable should be clearly marked as to it's type. If you should have noise problems, which I doubt, you would need to buy a good line conditioner/filter. There are a few good brands out there  such as Monster and Panamax.
I'm into home theater in a big way and I use line conditioners on all my equipment. Monster provides a lifetime guarantee should any component connected be damaged due to lightning strikes, power surges, and product fault itself.
I've got about 16K invested in my equipment, and the price of a conditioner is pretty cheap insurance in my opinion. They will also provide a cleaner picture to boot.>
Thanks in advance!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Kent Warren