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FAQs about Maroon Clownfish Reproduction
Related FAQs: Maroon Clowns 1,
Maroon Clowns 2,
Maroon Identification, Maroon
Behavior, Maroon Compatibility,
Maroon Selection, Maroon Feeding,
Maroon Systems, Maroon Disease,
Clownfishes 1, Clownfishes 3,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility,
Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems,
Clownfish Feeding, Maroon Clownfish,
Clownfish Diseases 1 & Clownfish
Diseases 2, Clownfish Diseases 3,
Brooklynellosis, Anemones &
Clownfishes, Breeding Clowns,
Related Articles: Maroon Clowns,
Clownfishes, | 
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Maroon clowns…will they pair? 6/16/08 First let me say good day
to you all. <Thanks! A splendid day to you as well!> I have two
Maroon clownfish in my 90gal tank. I introduced both of them almost two
months ago at the same time. Their current sizes are: big is probably
1.5” to 2” and the smaller one is maybe 1”. Two days of introducing them
in my tank, they swim and stay close together. After that they separate
their ways, one stayed at the right corner of the tank and one on the
other side. Sometimes I would see the big one chasing the small
clown, but no major attacked. A week ago I bought a GBTA and the
bigger Maroon took over the anemone instantly. I have noticed that once
in a while the small one will go near the GBTA and the bigger Maroon,
just to hang around. The bigger Maroon will sometimes ignore the small
Maroon or sometimes would chase. The bigger Maroon doesn’t nip any part
of the small Maroon not even when they bump with each other during
feeding time. This morning while the actinics were on, I saw the two
moving in a circle and have their cheeks touched. After a while they
break away and are on their separate locations again. So far I have
never seen the smaller Maroon do some twitching when being chased or
attacked by the bigger Maroon. With these, do you think these two
Maroons will ever pair? I know I am beginning to be impatient on what is
going to happen next, but I want to hear some confirmations from people
like you that they might have or the worst will not. <May, it sounds
like your clowns are still pretty young. Keep in mind an adult
female-morph Maroon can reach 6"- yours have a long way to go! They are
probably displaying pre-pairing behavior (Hashing out who will play the
husband and the wife!) and will likely pair if given time, space.>
Thank you and continue the great work you are doing. <Will try!>
-May <Benjamin>
Maroon Clownfish Breeding 4/29/08 Hi there guys and gals of
WWM! <Yunachin here today.> First, thank you for being always able
to answer all our questions and thanks for the great site where all
practical approach to marine/reef keeping are always ready. <You are
welcome! We do try hard around here.> Anyway, I’m in the process of
pairing a maroon clownfish (Premnas Biaculeatus) in my 90gal tank.
Currently they are the only fish in my tank (after the crashed almost a
month ago). I bought two maroons few days ago and I believe both are
still juveniles. One is bigger and the other one is smaller. <If this
is significant then the female/male roles have already been taken.>
The bigger one has a rusty maroon color and the small one is bright
maroon almost reddish. These are definitely not a tank bred. For the
past days there are only few times that the bigger one attempted to
attack the small one. Right now they are swimming on the same area and
sometimes side by side and no attacks from either one. <Sounds good
so far. The occasional attack is most likely the female establishing her
dominance and as long as this does not get out of hand, it will taper
off. > My question is, is it premature to assume that they will pair
up? Are they still too young to show the aggressions the maroon clowns
are known for? Is it possible that in the long run they are going to
pair? <If given a good tank environment, with scheduled vitamin
enriched feedings, pristine water conditions and a consistent light
pattern then there is a great chance that they will pair up. Be patient
because this can take some time. Maroons can also be the most stubborn
when trying to get to mate but being alone in the tank gives them a good
chance.> Again, thank you very much! Your response will definitely
help me with my current endeavor. <You’re welcome. Good Luck!
–Yunachin> -Rogie
Pairing Maroon Clownfish – 9/27/07 <Brenda here tonight!>
Thank you for your help in the past. <You’re welcome!> I have
another question. I have two Maroon clowns, one gold stripe and one
white stripe in separate QT tanks and I'm getting ready to move them
into my 180 display tank. The white stripe is a large size and the gold
stripe is a medium size. What are the chances the two will pair up?
<Is difficult to say. It is always best to work with juveniles that have
not yet become male or female. If two juveniles is not an option, I
recommend one being a juvenile, with a way for the juvenile to escape
the larger one. If you introduce two males, one will likely turn into
the female. If you introduce two females they will likely fight to the
death of one or both. Maroon clownfish can be very aggressive. I have
heard horror stories of other “innocent” fish getting in the way of two
Maroon clownfish fighting. Keep a very close eye on them and be prepared
to separate! Brenda>
Re: Pairing Maroon Clownfish – 9/28/07 I have the smaller Maroon
in my 20 QT, I got him first. I have the larger one in the 10 QT. <It
is good to hear you quarantine your fish.> Should I move the larger
one from the 10 to the 20 with the smaller one first to see what happens
before putting them both in the 180? Or just put them in the 180. <I
would place some PVC in with the smaller Maroon. Make sure that the PVC
is too small for the larger Maroon to go in. You can also divide the
tank with eggcrate for a few days, then remove, and just keep the PVC in
there. There is no guarantee with clownfish, and Maroons can be brutal.
Keep a very close eye on them. Placing them in a larger aquarium would
be better for introduction, but I am afraid the 180 will be impossible
to catch them if you need to separate. Brenda>
Pairing Maroon Clownfish, Premnas biaculeatus 8/14/07 Can a
white-striped maroon and a gold-striped maroon form a pair? <Yes,
they are the same species. More information here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maroonclnart.htm> I purchased what my LFS
told me was a gold-striped maroon about 8 months ago. This fish still
has white stripes so I am thinking about adding a larger gold-striped
maroon to the tank. <This is not a good idea. The clownfish you
currently have is likely female. If you purchase a larger clownfish, you
risk adding another female. Two female clownfish in one tank is asking
for trouble. It will likely result in the death of one or both
clownfish. I’ve heard horror stories were other fish were killed by
getting in the way of two fighting Maroons.> I just don't know if the
two varieties of clowns are compatible? BTW, the maroon that I have was
tank-bred. <I recommend getting a smaller Maroon Clownfish, and
keeping a very close eye on them when they are introduced. These are
territorial fish and do not always welcome a partner. There are a couple
of different techniques that can be used to introduce them, please read
through the FAQs on Maroon Clownfish for more information:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/premnasfaqs.htm
Good luck! Brenda> My maroon clowns and fry
- 05/01/07 Hello to you all. I am in need of some advice as i do
not know what to do for the best. I have a reef tank 400Lt for almost 7
years now. I have 6 perc clowns host a bubble anemone and all get along
great. My dream was to have a Maroon clown but knew i needed another
tank to do this so i got one. Thought i was doing good getting a small
Orca but soon realised it was not big enough. I came across a tank for
sale within my area and quite cheep so i bought it. At the moment i have
the tank set up to re home my Gold stripe Maroon clowns. It's 36 x 15 x
26 with around 35kl live rock, sand bed of around 4" there is a weir in
the right hand side with volcanic rock (sorry forgot the right name for
it) and bio balls the triangle shaped ones with a layer of pond filter
on the top and egg crate to hold it down. dose this sound OK? <Mmm,
am not a fan of Bio-balls, nor most volcanic rock... too sharp, not
enough surface area for bio-filtration, contributes nothing in the way
of biomineral or alkalinity...> The weir is drilled in the bottom
water is collected in a very tiny sump size of sump is 18 x10 x10 it is
too small i know. <Mmm, not really... should be fine for the rest of
the volume/the system here> There's no space to up size the sump but
i have managed to get my skimmer, heater, 3 pieces of live rock and a 2"
sand bed in. I placed 5" of Perspex to stop sand from going near my
return pump would this be OK? <Likely so> Next there is an
eternal filter which has 2 substrate's in (no sponges) 1st is like hula
hoops second is like a stone coloured course gravel with a layer of pond
filter on the top. I have never had a tank with either a weir, sump, or
external filter before. I have had this tank set up and running now for
4 weeks. Nitrate at 0.5, Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0 PH 7.8. readings have been
the same from day 3. <Okay> I was hoping to put in my clowns
soon but they decided to spawn. The eggs hatched and i had fry
everywhere. there in a small 58Lr orca cube hence why the 3ft is set up.
<I see> I had not seen eggs so was quite shocked to see the fry.
Problem is she decided to spawn again 10 days later. <Yes... right
on schedule> Now i have tiny fry and larger fry whey have not been
fed rotifer or brine. To be honest i am shocked there still alive
without a helping hand in feeding apart from i have been adding liquid
Cyclopes and there eating it. There also eating frozen baby brine and
scrupled flake food 3 different sorts mixed together with a tiny drop of
garlic. I have Joyce Wilkerson's book on order as you recommend and hope
it will be with me soon. <Good> In the mean time what do i do
with the parents? <I would move them to the new digs> Do i move
them to the new tank? <Yes> will the fry be better off away from
there parents? <Yes... otherwise will be eaten> there are no
other fish in the orca just a few bristle worms and small snails.
I understand if i move the pair they will stop breeding for around 6
months or so is this right? <Mmm, no... likely they will spawn again
in about two weeks... for a good long while... You will come to
understand this by reading... there are reproductive "checks"...>
This is not a problem as I'm sure the rest will do her good. I am
worried about the tank being so small and there being the 2 different
size fry around 14 days and 3 days old. apart from this she is cleaning
the rocks at the back of her cave again and doing general housework the
little guy is getting all protective and hates me taking a peek in the
tank. There acting the same way they did just before the second spawning
so she may just be wanting to spawn again. Any advice you can help
me with to guide me on the right track while i am waiting for my book to
arrive would be a huge help and an Honor to receive. thanks
Elaine Snowdonia, North Wales UK <Do use the water from the new tank
to make regular changes to the smaller/fry tank... keep monitoring water
quality there... Make plans of where to sell, move the young (perhaps
local stores). Bob Fenner> Re: my maroon clowns and fry
5/2/07 Thanks ever so much for your prompt reply. i plan to move
the parents into there new home in the morning so i can keep an eye on
them during the day. I do have a few more questions just to make sure i
have everything right before i transfer the fish. Would i be
better to remove the bio balls from the weir ? <... yes, posted>
and the volcanic rock ? <Ditto> if so what could i replace them
with ? <Please read on WWM re... the indices, search tool...>
would i be better to also remove the media from the external canister
and use it for water movement only ? <IMO, yes> or would i be
better off removing it from the tank all together ? <Possibly...
what would you do to "make up" the lost filtration, circulation?>
thanks again for all your help and advice it is really appreciated
Elaine <Glad to help. Bob Fenner> Baby Maroon Clowns –
Priceless! 1/17/07 Hi, <Hi Amy! Brenda here.> I am an
avid reader of your site and I’d just like to say that you guys are
great. <Thank you! We appreciate your kind words!> I have a
question. I’m hoping one of you will be able to answer. I’ve had my
reef tank set up for about 6 years and my maroon clownfish finally
decided to breed. <Very exciting!> I read a ton and
have been learning how to raise them. My question is....If I go through
all the trouble of raising the young, how much do you think my LFS would
be willing to pay for 25mm size healthy young fish? Like what price
would be a "fair" price, just an estimate would be good (Bay Area in
California). Assuming I deliver them to the LFS, and they buy from me on
a regular basis. I hate to bother you guys but couldn’t find the answer
on the site. < I suggest contacting your LFS and local Reef
Club. Keep in mind that when it comes time to sell, your LFS may not
have an immediate need for them. The experience however, will be
priceless!> Thanks, Amy <Your welcome. Brenda>
Re: Maroon Clown Maturation/Pair Question 9/15/06 Hello Mr.
Fenner/Crew <Bora> I think it's time this website is given
awards left and right. :) <Heeee! We won't disagree> Thank you
for the priceless knowledge/experience shared here. Not to bother you
more than enough, and sorry if I skipped my answer during skimming the
wet web media, here are my questions: To keep it short, after the
male's death of the original mated pair of maroons I introduced another
male. It was very young but I got him about a year now. Finally it's
developing yellow stripes. I assume that these two are paired up since
no one is dead over 8 months and they do hang out together and protect
this cave under the anemone (and literally carry food to the anemone
together). <Very likely so> Is developing yellow stripes can be
an indication of maturation and could I expect serious pair activity
from now on or this 100% a nutritional issue. <Mmm... maybe
something else entirely... could be sterile for instance> (I feed
them with Fenner's recipe added garlic guard zoo/phyto plankton and
everything kept marine as in ingredients + they get treat size Hikari
and ocean nutrition varieties on random times in a day). My active
"thank you"s Mr. Fenner, your books are sold out in my store! (I almost
bought two but it would have been too weird even for me) :) Have a
great day WWM Crew. Bora <You may need a "whipping boy" added
animal here to trigger "pair behavior"... Much we could/might discuss
re. Bob Fenner>
Death of female clown fish Hi, I just
lost my female maroon clown. Is it possible to find a mate for the male?
<Mmm, better to get a much smaller individual, have the present male
turn into a/the female> I had the clowns for 2+ years and the female
was laying eggs about every 8 weeks The clowns have a bubble tip anemone
which had split, and now the bubble tip the female preferred is on the
move it has been neglected for about 3 weeks as the female was not
caring as in the past (feeding, etc. ) I have many corals in the area
and would hate to see a battle between the anemone and corals
Thanks bhumpire <Lots we could chat re... Have you read over the
materials archived on WWM re Clownfishes? Bob Fenner> Re:
Sexing Maroon Clowns 11-25-05 Update (01-06-06 Crew-
<Craig> I hope you all had a happy New Year, I just have a few
follow up questions. I did pick up Joyce Wilkerson's book, and I am
having some success pairing my female maroon. The last two weeks, I have
had the smaller maroon isolated in the corner of the main display using
a drilled panel of Lucite. I removed the Lucite two days ago, and since
then the male has remained in the corner, even though he is no
longer confined there. The female periodically comes over to check him
out, and he exhibits the "shivering" behavior that I have read signals
the beginning of pairing behavior. Swell right? <Very swell,
correct.> However, I cleaned the glass in the corner he was in and
he moved to the other side of the aquarium. The female FREAKED, and
chased him everywhere. Minutes later, I intervened, and only after I put
him back in his corner with the Lucite did the female chill out. I
removed the Lucite a few hours later and got more shivering behavior, so
it was cool again. The thing is, as long as the Lucite is there, I do
not get any shivering or other interactions that occur with the barrier
removed. With the holidays being over, I cannot keep close tabs on them
all day. Can I leave the barrier out? The male gets the idea he needs to
stay in the corner, and there are no other fish in the aquarium with
them now to disturb them. But God help him if for whatever reason he
leaves the corner and I am not around. Remembering that the barrier
inhibits the "good vibrations" I am getting, should I keep the barrier
in the tank? <You should remove the barrier, but put some hiding
places in the corner for the male. I suggest some small pvc elbows and
tees. Make sure he can get in, but she cannot.> Sorry for another
issue, but any idea why would my BTA sometimes regurgitate partially
digested silversides? Most of the time it expels just the mucous and
slime, but occasionally there are barely digested fish in it. Would I be
correct to suspect overfeeding? I feed it 2-3X/wk when it really
stretches itself out and looks "hungry." The BTA is under 250W of
metal halide @ 14K and 32W PC @ 6500/10K. I have had it for 3-4
months and it is otherwise growing and doing great. <This one is
easy. BTAs cannot digest whole silversides. Those that feed them
regularly just are not seeing the regurgitation as it usually occurs at
night. BTAs do best with chopped or small pieces of food. I feed Mysis,
Omega enriched brine, and even Formula One cubes to my anemones. The
smaller pieces increase the surface area of the food and allows the
anemone to deal with it and digest it much easier.> Thanks as always
for your time and advice, <Anytime. Travis> Craig
GSM Pairing? 9/28/05 I have a mature female GSM. She
was about 3 years old when I got her and was the female in a
"mated" (but not spawning) pair at the time, this was about 6
months ago. I recently had the opportunity to acquire a small
juve/male GSM. I hesitantly introduced the male after hanging
him in a specimen box for some time in "her" corner. <Good move>
She all but ignored his presence while he floated in the box trying
desperately to swim lower into the aquarium. After some time of
this I let him loose. Much to my surprise and amazement she's
continued to pay significantly little attention to him. He now hosts
in her anemone about 1/2 of the time during the day, they swim
together, eat together, etc. She has shown no aggression or
dominance behavior over him (though her size speaks volumes to
him, I'm sure). <Agreed... if there were to be trouble... would
have evidenced by now> Without the dominance dance/submissive
behavior will they form a true pair? <Mmm, only "time can/will
tell"> The intro was such a non-event that I'm wondering if
they'll mate or continue to just quietly co-exist. Any insight
in what I should look forward to? What behavior I should look
for? What do you look for in a "mated pair" (shy of the eggs, of
course) of GSM? Regards, Phyllis <A bunch to state...
feel I should plug Joyce Wilkerson's work, refer you to the
Breeder's Registry (.com)... but there are a few "things" you might
do that could trigger reproduction... manipulation of photoperiod,
temperature notably... perhaps a change to higher protein diet,
addition of liquid vitamins... Would you like to chat these, other
issues (related) over? Bob Fenner> | 
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Pairing Maroon Clowns 9/12/05 Hello, I have a medium
sized y-striped maroon right now in a 30 gallon tank. I am preparing
to transfer him over into a 135 gallon reef tank, which is newly set
up and currently empty. I would very much like to mate him up with
a second y-striped maroon. Obviously when I add him to the tank I will
add his would be mate at the same time. Is there anything else I
can do to ensure that hostilities will not take place? I was told by a
friend to get a maroon that is larger, as the larger ones are
usually the females. Is this good advice? Thanks, Frank Janes
>>>Hello Frank, You were given poor advice I'm afraid. First of all,
this fish gets to be about the size of your hand, so if you indeed have
a "medium" sized maroon clown, then you already have a female in all
likelihood, and not a "he" as you describe. This means you need to get a
MUCH smaller individual which will remain a male. This is the easy
part, the hard part is introducing the little guy and not having him get
killed. I recommend placing him in a clear plastic container with holes
in it, kind of a "shark cage" idea. Leave him in this container for
several days to allow the female to get acclimated to him. Make sure he
gets fed. You can then release him, and just hope for the best! This is
how I paired my maroons. However, I also had 6 bubble tip anemones in
the tank for the little guy to move between and thus escape the females'
attentions. Even though I used the method I just described to you, she
was quite rough at first. Also, not sure what you mean by "medium",
this is a rather ambiguous term don't you think? Your female should be
3"+, then get the smallest Maroon you can find to introduce to her.
Good luck! Jim<<< Maroon Clown Pairing? Hi. I was
hoping you could help me out. Now I know you probably been ask this
question a thousand times but here goes. I purchased 2 Maroon clowns a
couple of weeks ago from a LFS that had 3 of them in a tank together.
The 2 I purchased seemed to have gotten along cause they were sharing a
BTA and were both chasing the other Maroon around. The Maroons are I
would say 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches long. I had them in QT and while in
there they stayed on opposite ends of the tank with an occasional chase
here and there but with not actual assaults. Now I have introduced them
to a 55gal reef. (They are the only fish in it) One of the Clowns seems
to be trying to host a Bubble Coral and a Frog Spawn. He's what's going
on though. When that clown that's trying to host sees the other clown A
chase breaks out and seem to lead to some Jaw locking between the 2.
There hasn't been any damage to fins or anything. Just the whole jaw
locking thing. I would like to know what you make of this behavior? And
what you suggest I should do? If anything? Thanks for your help in
Advance..<I would separate these fish, it sounds more like signs of
aggression to me, IanB> ~Don~ Gold Striped Maroon
Anemonefish Good morning this is Joann <Hi! Ryan with you
today> My question is regarding the behavior of my pair of
Goldstripe maroons. <Surely> The two have been in the same tank for
about 6-7 months now. The male was a "replacement" because the original
suddenly died. The second male and original female went through a rough
adjustment period (the male preferred swimming through the divider and
staying with the miniatus grouper and the harlequin tusk. About 2 months
ago a 30 gal reef was set up for the maroons and other "community" fish.
Their BTA wasn't looking good so about 1 month ago was taken out and is
being nursed back to health. Two days ago the male seemed to be
"sitting" on a rock the has a section of hair algae growing and is
located where the BTA use to be. Since he has been continuously
"resting" there and fanning the area. Could you give me some advice on
what's going on. <In the absence of a hosting anemone/coral, some clowns
will adopt a rock as their own. Have you considered a Sarcophyton for
him? If you have the lighting to house an anemone (4+ watts/gallon) then
a Sarcophyton may be perfect for your system. Much hardier, and doesn't
require supplemental feeding.> Could the pair have become a mated pair?
<Possibly, but maybe not. By definition, a mated pair has spawned. Are
there eggs in your tank?> Thanks for your time and advice!!
<Absolutely. Good luck! Ryan> Maroon clown harem If I
introduced 3 juvenile (~2") clownfish, will they form a harem upon
maturity? Would I need to start out with more than 3? Just
wondering, and considering. Thanks M. Maddox Not a prayer
IMO... and I hesitate to speak so absolutely, but if there are three
things you can count on in life: the sun will rise tomorrow George Bush
stutters and hesitates during press conferences because he's slow
picking up on the answers given to him through his earpiece and 2 or
more maroon clowns in the same tank will usually fight to the death I
watched a batch of tank raised juveniles beating the hell out of each
other during a freshwater bath! They were more concerned with territory
than the fact that they were suddenly in desalinated water Anthony
-GS Maroon clown Concerns- Hi guys, I found your site for
the first time today, and I have to say, I am overwhelmed by the amount
of great info you put out. <Great!> I have a few concerns I would like
help with. To give you some background on the situation, I have a 75G
tank with a 20G sump. I have a UV sterilizer, a mesh sock <Personally,
I wear cotton ones, sometimes w/ the gold toe ;) >, and a Kent Nautilus
TE protein skimmer. There is about 120lbs of live rock, and a couple of
corals I have kept for about 6 months now. First, what do you think of
the setup? <Sounds fine, although I'd only run the UV when necessary,
which should be never. It would be better used on a quarantine tank.>
Living on an island in Washington, the nearest respectable LFS is
about 3 hours away, <Ouch> depending on the ferry backup, up to 5, so
getting livestock is a gamble. Speaking of gamble, I ordered a mated
pair of Gold striped maroon clowns online last week, and upon arrival, I
found that the male was dead. You can say I learned my lesson on buying
fish without seeing them. Can I add another small clown, or will she
kill it? <That's the $20,000 question: how rotten is this female? I
suppose you won't know until you try, so make sure that you have
somewhere to relocate (likely permanently since you can't get around to
any local shops to trade him in) the new male should the female be too
aggressive.> I also found a white spot on her lower right fin, and I
don't know how concerned I should be, I really don't want her to die.
<Just keep an eye on it for now, you could do a preventative fresh water
dip if you like.> I know I made the huge mistake of not putting her in a
QT before adding her to the reef, and I know ignorance is no excuse.
<Yep> She seems healthy otherwise, she spend all her time in the
anemone, eats and breathes quite regularly. <Sounds like she's in good
shape> In the tank I have a cardinal fish, and a pair of
firefish. When I got the clown I also received a very large Bubble tip
anemone which I found lost all pigments, it only has a very light green
residue on the tip of it's tentacles, and I was wondering if there
is anything I can do to regrow the pigments on it, or is that's just not
possible. <Sounds like it bleached, and what's left are the pigments
(the zooxanthellae died off due to lack of proper lighting or other
factors).> The clown helped it acclimate quite well, and I feed it
silversides for now, because it is just too large for Krill. Please
guide me, I love everything about my reef tank, but I want my livestock
to thrive in it, and not just survive in it. Again, thank you for the
great info, and your site is just amazing, you can count on my visit on
a regular basis from now on. <Well, it seems that you've forgotten to
list what type of lighting you are running on this setup, which is very
important since you have an anemone. If it is inadequate, it's likely
the source of your BTA problem, which is serious. -Kevin>
Respectfully -Frank Buying two tank raised Gold Bar
Maroons, will they form a pair? <Hi Nathan, MacL here> I
would really like a pair of Gold Bar Maroons. <Very nice choice. Very
pretty fish. But they are known to be pretty aggressive so that will
make a difference as to the fish you can have with them.> I know that
generally speaking, established pairs are wild caught. <Not always.
Some places are offering breeders for sale. You also might consider
checking the boards and local clubs to see if someone has a pair that
they would like to sell or trade.> I would like tank bred fish. <Very
wise. I do know that ORA and some other places have been selling tank
raised for many years. I believe that while they don't sell retail they
could connect you with a place that does sell their fish.> I found on
Dr. Fosters & Smith that they have tank bred maroons! <Great>If I
purchase two will they form a pair? <If you get two young, small ones,
one will change its sex more than likely.> Any help would be greatly
appreciated. <You are doing wonderfully and very wise to check out what
you are doing in advance.> Thank you, Nathan Brown
-Pairing up maroon clowns- Ok, here is my story.. I purchased 2
maroon clown fish, both came from the mail <ah, the USPS now sells fish?
;) >and both were the same size. As expected they fought for 2 days
until one became the dominate one. The other sat in the corner, flat,
scared and not eating. I was waiting for mating <?!> but the other just
kept nipping at it for about 4 days. <That sometimes happens, you
probably should have separated them previous to this.> I decided that
the scared one needed to be removed. OK, now that the dominate one is
all alone, it now hides behind the skimmer box, barely comes out, and
shows no interest in eating. Maybe he misses the other? <No emotional
attachment here, not clear what's going on though.> Any ideas of what's
up. Before I removed the other, the dominate one was fine, eating,
swimming around? <Interesting, it may have been the stress of you
actually going in the tank to remove the other one that spooked it.
There could also be another fish in the tank bullying it.> Should I put
the other back, maybe they were about to mate and I ruined it. <Fish are
not like horny stray dogs, a pair of clowns only 'mates' (i.e. lays and
fertilized eggs) after several weeks or likely months of courtship.> I
also have a bubble tip anemone that for 1.5 weeks now, the maroon clown
has not even touched it yet? <Although E. quadricolor is the natural
host of your clownfish, there's no guarantee that the clown will
actually take to it> The clowns were tank raised. <Tank raised or not,
same chance.> One more thing. the anemone has moved to a place that is
between a feather duster and a button polyp. I found the tentacles
laying on the button polyp, is that polyp doomed. <Unlikely, I'd move
the polyps. This is also an indication that you could probably use some
more flow, since these very light tentacles were just sitting by their
previous owner.> I did move the polyp over and it looks like some of the
polyps are shrived, will they all die, will the shriveled pieces come
back to life. <The shriveled polyps are a bit burnt, but will likely
make a full recovery.> It also touched the feather duster, is that
doomed too, the tube is getting dark and flimsy looking but the feather
still comes in and out ok? <The tube is made of their excrement, so it
doesn't matter what it looks like. A good way to judge feather duster
health is to look at the crown, which I'm not sure if it can actually be
stung... I must roll that one around for a while since I'm not sure what
the crown is actually made of.> Can it get stung as well. I am rambling,
I let you answer. Thanks, Mark <I hope this helps, -Kevin>
Maroon Clown Pairing Hi Wet Web Peoples… <Hi Brett, MacL here
tonight> I have put a small – ¾ inch, hopefully male – maroon clown
with my 1 ½ inch female housed in a 75 gallon well furnished reef
tank. She’s given him(?) a hard time. On the first day, I thought she
was going to kill him, chasing and biting his fins. Day two and she’s a
lot better behaved. He’s got a few pieces missing from his tail, but is
otherwise ok. <That's typical.> She leaves him generally alone, but
stays close by with only the occasional chase and doesn’t seem to want
to kill him. He seems to be petrified of her, but still wants to stay
near to her. Does the tempering of aggression mean they are slowly
pairing? <Probably.> How long can the process take? <That's up to the
individual fish. I wish I could give you a certain time but
unfortunately it depends on the fish.> Also regarding anemones… I
have one that is a rose pink, with cream tips – sorry but I have no idea
what it is, but I guess its locally collected in South East Asia, as a
lot of corals are here. Any ideas what it could be? The female clown
has ignored it from day one. <They don't have to have an anemone to be
happy but if you want one that she will breed in its best to get what is
natural to her.> Will having a mate change that or should I take it back
to the dealer and wait until they can get a green bubble tip in – they
seem hard to come by here – but occasionally available. <One of their
natural anemones is the bubble tip so if I could I would buy one of the
natural hosts.> I heard they are a better match – is that correct? <Yes>
Yours Sincerely Brett Bangkok, Thailand Maroon clown
questions 1/2/05 Hi guys. I just found your site and it seems to
have a ton of good information. I have been reading everything about
maroon clownfish and have not found my answer yet, so I thought I'd see
if you guys could help. I recently (about 1 month ago) purchased a pair
of maroon clowns which I found for $50 Canadian! (usually they go for
about $45 each), these two were rubbing against each other in the store,
and they continued to rub each other in my tank... they appear to be a
true pair... they even look like they're in love! I am relieved that I
was able to get through the pairing process so easily and cheaply, but a
few things have happened and a few questions have come up. <Glad you
found the site and have benefited. If your clowns were not a pair, one
of them would be dead, so yup, you've got a pair!> To start with,
they immediately started rubbing against the tips of my Condy anemone
(which I have had for about 6 months, has a pinkish/brownish tinge
except for the very purple tips and the very neon green disk/mouth) and
after about an hour of increasing contact, they were both diving in
like crazy. They girl at the store assured me that this would not
happen, that I should buy the $70 BTA that I couldn't afford.... but I
guess you don't know till you try. <Most clowns will not adopt a
Condylactis anemone, but IME, Maroons are amount the most likely to do
so.> Another funny thing with these fish is that 1 (the larger,
about 2-21/2" female I suppose) has gold stripes and the other (1"/ 1
1/2" male) has white stripes. I understand that they are still the same
species, but does this say anything about where they have come from? I
am sort of assuming that they are captive bred fish as they took to the
Condy, but the girl didn't know. <The gold striped variety are
collected in Sumatra. They don't develop gold stripes until about a
year old. Your male could still be too young, or could be from a
different collection area. They could be captive bred, but their
acceptance of the anemone is not an indication one way or the other.>
Anyway, these oddities aside, the fish have been looking happy and
healthy (and still are!) they love their totally incompatible :) Condy
anemone (and rarely venture more than 6" from it except at feeding time,
which appears to be the norm). However, now the larger of the two seems
to have stopped eating. She has no visible marks, looks very vibrant,
does not appear emaciated (sp?) and otherwise looks happy, perhaps she
is staying in the anemone a little more than before ( and more than the
male). She was accepting all kinds of food, just like the male (Mysis,
flakes, "Marine Mix" and brine shrimp) but not only takes a piece of
food in, then spits it right out.... then swims to the net piece and
does it again. This all started about two days ago. I have seen that
these fish can safely go for a week without eating... but I was
wondering if this could be some type of pre-spawning behaviour. <My
female clowns are much more aggressive feeders, except immediately
before spawning. Look for a very plump belly, and a lot of rock
cleaning activity as signs of an impending spawn. More likely, she is
just having a bit of a slack appetite. Nothing to worry about unless it
goes on for more than a week.> I am fairly new to the marine hobby
(about a year and a half) but this behaviour is very reminiscent of a
brooding Mbuna cichlid. ( I realize they are not at all the same). I
have read several article about breeding these fish, but none seem to go
into any detail about the courtship and pre-spawning details for these
beautiful fish and what exactly I should be watching for. I really want
to try my hand at raising some of these little devils and don't want to
miss a spawn. I would really like any info you could give me on the
mating rituals and what not that these fish perform, and perhaps some
tips on how to find the eggs when they do come. <Courtship consists of
a lot of side by side shimmying, picking at a spot at the rocks
(cleaning to lay eggs on) and the female becoming slightly aggressive
toward the male (making sure he keeps working!). You may also notice
the females ovipositor extended. The eggs are hard to miss. They will
be bright red/orange and in a tightly clustered patch within a few
inches of the anemone. Actual spawning behaviour consists of the female
making a pass over the rock and depositing eggs, followed by a pass by
the male to fertilize them. Spawning takes anywhere from a half hour to
two hours. Raising the babies takes quite a bit of preparation,
planning and dedication. See Joyce Wilkerson's "Clownfishes" for
excellent info on the subject.> Here is my system specs. 1 50
gal tank, 1 35 gal tank, 1 20 gal sump, 1 5 gal hex tank These tanks
are all plumbed together and into the sump, making a total system size
of about 110 gal. About 75 lbs live rock, about 10-15 pounds lava
rock (which I am seeding to use as base rock for a future set-up, this
is packed into the 5 gal hex, with some LR rubble, plumbed to sump)
2-3" live sand in 2 show tanks 35, and 50 5" live sand in refugium
5" dead sand in hex, seeded with some live sand, also for future
set-up.... I'm a patient man. lighting, 50 gal- 250 watt MH
pendant, 1 actinic 3' Florescent 35 gal 1-3'actinic,1 3'powerglo
temp 76, Nitrate-0, nitrite- 0, amm-0, phosphates-0, ph 8-1/8.2
Critters and corals 50 gal- 1 black/white stripe damsel (2"), 1
"eel goby"(8"long)P. leucotaenia (I think), 1 red legged hermit crab, 1
huge Brittlestar (that I haven't seen come out from under the rock for
at least 9 months, could it be stuck?), about 20 turbo snails, several
Nassarius snails, a rapidly splitting green Ricordea (sp?)... bought 1
6-7 mo.s ago, now I have 3) some brown green mystery polyps, and a
leather coral which I don't know much about, other than that it's brown
with green little stalked food grabbers that stick out all over it
(sorry if I'm getting too technical here ;). ) and it seems to grow
quite well. There also are (were?) two mystery crabs which I haven't
seen for at least 6 mos. Also many Aiptasia (Grr.....) and some sponges
and other little worms, squirts and small branchy corals growing on my
rock. 35 gal- Scooter blenny, purple striped Basslet, banded coral
shrimp, peppermint shrimp, spider crab (this is some type of decorator
crab, but it is BIG, about 5-6" across), two supposed blue leg hermit
crabs (that are not the least bit blue and now quite large, they have
brown striped 'sticklike" legs, any idea?), a serpent star, 'Cyano
eating conch'. I think that's it. <Your serpent star is probably
not stuck. They do tend to stay out of sight. BIG crabs are
SCARY! They will kill and eat just about anything.> I am running
only a RedSea prism skimmer, and there is also a canister Eheim filter
running, other than that there is are no filters other than my rock and
sand bed. I have been thinking about more skimming but don't know it
it's really necessary. Holy cow... what an epic question... sorry
guys, but I can't seem to get any good advice.... thanks a lot!
<Your system sounds good. The real test is the health of the
animals. If the animals are healthy, don't fix what ain't broke!. Best
Regards. AdamC.> More Maroon Clown input Hi guys.
I just found your site and it seems to have a ton of good
information. I have been reading everything about maroon clownfish and
have not found my answer yet, so I thought I'd see if you guys could
help. I recently (about 1 month ago) purchased a pair of maroon clowns
which I found for $50 Canadian! (usually they go for about $45 each),
these two were rubbing against each other in the store, and they
continued to rub each other in my tank... they appear to be a true
pair... <Premnas pairs are very distinctive... the males are
relatively tiny, of very different color> they even look like
they're in love! I am relieved that I was able to get through the
pairing process so easily and cheaply, but a few things have happened
and a few questions have come up. To start
with, they immediately started rubbing against the tips of my Condy
anemone (which I have had for about 6 months, has a pinkish/brownish
tinge except for the very purple tips and the very neon green
disk/mouth) and after about an hour of increasing contact, they were
both diving in like crazy. They girl at the store assured me that this
would not happen, that I should buy the $70 BTA that I couldn't
afford.... but I guess you don't know till you try. <Clowns can/do
take to Condys... may be too vigorously, damaging them> Another
funny thing with these fish is that 1 (the larger, about 2-2 1/2" female
I suppose) has gold stripes and the other (1"/ 1 1/2" male) has white
stripes. I understand that they are still the same species, but does
this say anything about where they have come from? <Mmm, not much>
I am sort of assuming that they are captive bred fish as they took to
the Condy, but the girl didn't know. <Not likely captive bred... due
to the price you state, size of specimens... very likely wild-collected>
Anyway, these oddities aside, the fish have been looking happy and
healthy (and still are!) they love their totally incompatible :) Condy
anemone (and rarely venture more than 6" from it except at feeding time,
which appears to be the norm). However, now the larger of the two seems
to have stopped eating. She has no visible marks, looks very vibrant,
does not appear emaciated (sp?) and otherwise looks happy, perhaps she
is staying in the anemone a little more than before (and more than the
male). She was accepting all kinds of food, just like the male (Mysis,
flakes, "Marine Mix" and brine shrimp) but not only takes a piece of
food in, then spits it right out.... then swims to the net piece and
does it again. This all started about two days ago. I have seen that
these fish can safely go for a week without eating... but I was
wondering if this could be some type of pre-spawning behaviour.
<Maybe...> I am fairly new to the marine hobby (about a year and a
half) but this behaviour is very reminiscent of a brooding Mbuna
cichlid. ( I realize they are not at all the same). <Ahh,
Amphiprionines and their larger family, the Damsels, family
Pomacentridae are indeed very closely related (phylogenetically) with
the cichlids...> I have read several articles about breeding these
fish, but none seem to go into any detail about the courtship and
pre-spawning details for these beautiful fish and what exactly I should
be watching for. I really want to try my hand at raising some of these
little devils and don't want to miss a spawn. <You might
look for Joyce Wilkerson's work on the subfamily> I would really
like any info you could give me on the mating rituals and what not that
these fish perform, and perhaps some tips on how to find the eggs when
they do come. <These will be obvious... attached to the substrate,
in an area near the anemone (under its foot if it were big enough)>
here is my system specs. 1 50 gal tank 1 35 gal tank 1 20
gal sump 1 5 gal hex tank These tanks are all plumbed
together and into the sump, making a total system size of about 110
gal. About 75 lbs live rock. about 10-15 pounds lava rock (which
I am seeding to use as base rock for a future set-up, this is packed
into the 5 gal hex, with some LR rubble, plumbed to sump)
2-3" live sand in 2 show tanks 35, and 50 5" live sand in refugium
5" dead sand in hex, seeded with some live sand, also for future
set-up.... I'm a patient man. lighting, 50 gal- 250 watt MH
pendant, 1 actinic 3' Florescent 35 gal 1-3'actinic,1 3'powerglo
temp 76 Nitrate-0 nitrite- 0 amm-0 phosphates-0 ph
8-1/8.2 Critters and corals 50 gal- 1 black/white stripe damsel
(2"), 1 "eel goby"(8"long)P. leucotaenia (I think), 1 red legged hermit
crab, 1 huge Brittlestar (that I haven't seen come out from under the
rock for at least 9 months, could it be stuck?), about 20 turbo snails,
several Nassarius snails, a rapidly splitting green Ricordea (sp?)...
bought 1 6-7 mo.s ago, now I have 3) some brown green mystery polyps,
and a leather coral which I don't know much about, other than that it's
brown with green little stalked foodgrabbers that stick out all over it
(sorry if I'm getting too technical here ;). ) <Hee!> and it
seems to grow quite well. There also are (were?) two mystery crabs which
I haven't seen for at least 6 mos. Also many Aiptasia (Grr.....) and
some sponges and other little worms, squirts and small branchy corals
growing on my rock. 35 gal- Scooter blenny, purple striped Basslet,
banded coral shrimp, peppermint shrimp, spider crab (this is some type
of decorator crab, but it is BIG, about 5-6" across), two supposed blue
leg hermit crabs (that are not the least bit blue and now quite large,
they have brown striped 'sticklike" legs, any idea?), <Nope> a
serpent star, 'Cyano eating conch'. <Good luck here> I think
that's it. I am running only a Red Sea Prizm skimmer, and there is
also a canister Eheim filter running, other than that there is are no
filters other than my rock and sand bed. I have been thinking about
more skimming but don't know it it's really necessary. <With your
new tank> Holy cow... what an epic question... sorry guys, but I
can't seem to get any good advice.... thanks a lot! <Keep good
notes. You may well be writing up your experiences. Bob Fenner>
Marooned II wow, two responses... you guys don't mess around!
Thanks for your advice, I am glad to say that my lovely clown has now
eaten! It is very interesting that they ARE related to the cichlids...
I had no idea... where could I find out more about that? <And
recently both families have been moved to the same sub-order of
Perciformes as the wrasses and Parrotfishes!> I didn't think that
the eggs would be so close to the anemone, IN it? <Well, under the
pedicle/foot> wouldn't the anemone eat them? (well, I guess
not). Anyways, I'm going to go looking for that book by Joyce
Wilkerson, hopefully the local library has it.. I'm poor. <In some
respects perhaps> I am very impressed with your site and I can
say with certainty that this is my new fish resource. Thanks a lot
guys! Tom P.S. What did you mean when you said more skimming
for my new tank? Do you foresee some kind of disaster with my current
tank? <Was likely my cohort's reference to having a bigger, better
skimmer the total gallonage of your systems. Bob Fenner> Marooned
III <You might look for Joyce Wilkerson's work on the subfamily>
I checked my library for this book with no luck... but they did have
this one:
http://ipac.brantford.library.on.ca/ipac20/ipac.jsp?session=1104786JG518T.1283&profile=main--1&uri=link=3100006~!634321~!3100001~!3100002&aspect=subtab22&menu=search&ri=3&source=~!training&term=Clownfishes+and+sea+anemones+%3A+everything+about+purchase%2C+care%2C+nutrition%2C+maintenance+and+setting+up+an+aquarium+%2F&index=ALTIT
Is it any good? <Worthwhile, but I'd ask your local library to
borrow Joyce's work within their system (takes about a week)> I've
seen some pretty terrible cichlid books in my time with
mis(dis?)-information on every page, don't need to get myself confused
with a bad book. thanks. Tom <John (Tullock's) works are
well-done, but this ones a bit short on content. Bob Fenner>
Yellow stripe maroons Hey guys, I have several questions on
yellow stripe maroons. 1.) I was told that TR yellows will not show
any or very very little yellow in their stripes. Is this true? <What?
There is only ONE species of Maroon Clownfish, Premnas biaculeatus...
some are more/less yellow striped... and this varies... with nutrition,
care...> I had a TR yellow stripe for about 4 months now and I moved
him/her to another tank. I have read that if a clown is kept solo for a
while it will most likely be a female? <All eventually become females
if they live long enough> 2.) How reliable is this info? I have
been visiting a LFS several times in the last couple months and they
have had 2 yellows in the same tank. 1 of them is a approx. a 1/4 inch
bigger than the other ( fish approx. 1" to 1 1/2"). I know the
recommendation is to have one much bigger than the other to have a pair.
But these two never have shown any aggression against each other. I
would watch this fish about 10 to 15 minutes each day. The bigger one
was also darker then the other. <Ahh, a good clue that this one is or
is becoming a/the female> I know that this is not something to count
on but from my reading generally this occurs. I purchased these fish
which is why I moved my other maroon to another tank. It is day 2 now
and the darker bigger one has chased the other one all around. I noticed
today what appears to be 2 sores or nicks on the smaller one.
Recommendations: 3.) Should I take one of them out? Or should I by
bigger maroon and put him in there and see which he pairs with? <Up
to you... I do hope this tank is big enough... sixty or more gallons,
uncrowded otherwise...> 4.) If I take one out which should I remove?
I know that if a clown is a female it can not turn into a male. So my
concern is that the bigger of the two is already a female? 5.) What
about the idea of putting several maroons in a tank of assorted sizes
and seeing which ones pair up and remove the rest? Thanks, Greg
<Not necessary. Please read through our "Clown" materials and consider a
good book or two... Joyce Wilkerson's would be my pick for you. Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clownfis.htm and the links above
(in blue). Bob Fenner> - Clownfish Behavior -
Hello again, We have a maroon clownfish and in the past couple of
days he is digging around his anemone. Just curious as to were this
behavior is coming from. <It's in their genes... pretty typical, and
in truth hard to know the actual motivations of any fish.> Thanks in
advance <Cheers, J -- > Frisky Maroons Hello, I
have a question about maroon clown fish reproduction. I have two maroon
clown fish, and they have been in my tank for approximately 1 month. One
is about twice the size of the other, and much lighter. I realize that
this is very early to have my fish mate, but yesterday they were
displaying some very odd behavior. First, I noticed a large dip in the
sand where they were hanging out. The smaller darker one kept shaking
and burrowing into it. I also noticed a few tears on his left fin. Is
this normal? Are my fish just mating, or do I have something to worry
about? Thanks a lot <Please read on WWM re clownfish reproduction,
behavior, Premnas... Bob Fenner> Maroon Clown sandstorm
Hello crew! <Hi Jim> I just received a Maroon Clown from a
friend. My tank is about 1 month old. The 3 fish in the tank seem happy.
Here's my problem. I have a 4-5" DSB. The clown has found a nice little
cave, but decided there wasn't enough clearance. He's been blowing sand
all over the tank. Since the sand is very fine, I have a dust cloud
perpetually in the tank. 1) Is this normal? He's really going nuts
with the home decorating. I don't want him destabilizing the rock
structure. 2) Will he stop once he's happy with the digs? I don't
mind another day or so if he'll stop once he's done. I'm hoping he
stops soon, because the other fish are probably annoyed! Plus it's been
about 3 days since they've been introduced to the tank, and I'd like to
feed them today! <I've seen this behavior quite often. I had one
that did the same thing. Once they rearrange the furniture, he should be
fine, though occasionally he will sweep up from time to time. James
(Salty Dog)> Thanks as always! ~Jim <You're welcome>
Moving Maroon Clowns Hi <Good day to you> I have a mated
pair of maroon clowns that spawned a few days ago. <Congrats> I hope we
can keep the fry living and healthy. Anyway, my husband and I will be
moving to another town which is 5 hours drive away in a couple of
months' time and we intend to move our livestock along, although it will
be an entirely new setup. My questions are : 1) Do these maroon
clowns have to re-establish their 'relationship' in the new tank?
<Shouldn't have to. Probably best to ship them together.> 2) If so,
what is the best way to ensure minimum 'conflict'? It took us 4 months
to pair them up. 3) What precautions should we take to ensure that
we do not lose any livestocks due to this move? We have a 2.5" blue
tang, a 2" yellow wrasse, an orchid Dottyback, bicolor blenny, black
sailfin blenny and an okinawae. As for corals, we have softies like
frogspawns, cauliflower, etc... plus some Zoanthus and mushrooms. <Read
here my friend. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm James
(Salty Dog)> Thank you for your time. <You're welcome> Ai Kun
Maroon clowns Hi Bob, Anthony and Steven, I ran into your web
site the other day and found it quite interesting and informative. I
have a question that none of the local fish-people can answer (I doubt
they know a whole lot about this), so you guys are my only hope so far:
<I shall do my best> I have four maroon clowns, or at least I think
they all are. Three are small (one is less than 2 inches, two are just
over 2 inches) and one is about 3 inches long. <the largest is
already a female (clowns change sex... they are protogynous
hermaphrodites, not unlike some of the entertainers in New Orleans)>
I was hoping to pair them up if I can. <you don't have to do
anything... the dominant female will stake a site, drive all fishes
away, then drive a male into the nest, and then try to kill the other
two clowns... in that order> The trouble is, two of them are one
color/pattern, two are another. <has nothing to do with the price of
tea in China... same species> The smallest and the medium are dark
orange with wide white stripes and dark brown fins. The large one and
the second smallest are light orange all over the body with very thin
white stripes. I am wondering if the different colors are a
male/female difference or are they collected from different regions?
(The smallest one has been bought locally about 7 months ago, the others
came from fishsupply.com in California and are supposedly wild caught).
<yes...color morphs/races> My small one has been alone all these
months and the others had been placed in tanks individually at the store
(I do not know how long). Is there any chance I have 2 males and 2
females or have they all become female by now? <by size, it is not
likely that they are all females... although if they are, then you are
beat. All start unsexed then turn to male. Solitary and dominant
individuals (believed) then turn to female. In the event that the female
of a pair is killed, the male turns female and the next dominant male in
the colony steps up or an unsexed juvenile changes. But a female cannot
change back to male as I understand it> (I have heard that if a clown
is by itself for more than a few days, it will irreversibly turn into a
female). <much longer than days...weeks at minimum... genitalia take
some time to throw together properly... hehe> I just got the three
today (by FedEx) and placed them in one tank. The two small ones started
fighting immediately and the large one ignored them completely. The
smallest of the two beat the living daylights out of the larger one. The
smallest (aggressive) one was the light orange/thin striped clown, just
like the largest one. I removed the victim and now the small and the
large one are getting along just fine. <maroons are very hostile
conspecifically... more than two should never be placed together>
Could they be a potential pair and if so, <likely sexed at least>
should I try to pair up the other two when the "victim" is healed?
<same tank with a course divider (lie egg crate) will give you your best
chance for gender switching> Or should I try to pair up the lighter
ones with the darker ones? <a moot point> Also, I can not see
cheek spines on the smallest one (my first one)- is it just too young
(about 1 year old, I imagine) to have them (or are they small and hard
to see?) <I suspect just hard to see> And one last question: do
they use cyanide in catching the clowns and if so, how can I find out if
mine have been poisoned? Thank you so much in advance, Julia. <more
prevalent in Indonesia than the Philippines as it used to be, yes...
cyanide is used liberally. Symptoms include unusually stark color in
fishes, normal feeding behavior, sudden loss of appetite and then death
with gills flared and pale in color (light pink or white... not red).
Anthony Calfo> Marooned? (Forming A Maroon Clownfish Pair)
I have a 3.5" maroon clown. If I were to get a much smaller one, what
are the chances of creating a mated pair? Is this a crazy idea? Will the
larger one just tear the newer one to shreds? Thanks, Eric <Well,
Eric- there is no guarantee with Maroon Clowns (or any other clownfish,
for that matter). I am a firm believer that this "pair forming"
technique is the most viable one with Maroon Clowns. The technique
usually works, as the smaller fish, if not overly intimidated by the
larger one, will generally submit and a pair will form. Do keep an eye
on these fishes, to make sure that the little guy doesn't get
shredded...Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Pairing Off Clowns
Hello: <Hi there! Scott F. here!> Thank you guys for being the
finest source for salt water fish information on the web. I don't
know where I'd be without you. <And we would be nowhere without you!
Thanks for the "props"!> I have a 2.5 inch maroon clown that's done
well by his/her self for a year, but I'm thinking of getting a mate. I'm
guessing it's a male, because of the size and the lack of grown since I
obtained him. What would be the process of doing that? Can I just buy
another maroon and one will naturally become a female? It's a very dark
maroon color phase with pale yellow stripes, if that makes any
difference. <Not really, actually- color is not as reliable as size,
in most instances> It lives in a 65 gallon semi-reef with a couple of
wrasses (fairy, six-line), a Royal Dottyback, a Rusty Angel, and a
Scopus tang. It spars with the Dottyback occasionally, but so does
everybody else. The clown has made its home in an Atlantic Anemone.
Thank you-Ian Berger <Well, Ian, Maroons are a bit different than
most other clowns, in that they can't simply be allowed to pair off by
growing up together from juveniles. These fish will beat the *@$#%& out
of each other in most cases! A better way with these guys is to attempt
to pair a much smaller fish with your larger one; the thought being that
the smaller fish will submit to the larger one. However, you need to be
prepared to remove the smaller one if the big guy attacks him and
threatens his life. Also, provide a place of refuge within the tank for
the little guy. Your sign of a pair being formed: When the little fish
stays next to the large one, and trembles in her presence (without
freaking out and running for cover). You just need to be patient and
keep a really close eye on things. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F>
- Maroon Clown Behavior - Hello Crew, Visit your site daily.
Quick question. I have a pair of yellow striped maroon clown fish.
Female about 2X size of male. Both share a BTA. They have been in my
reef for less than 2 weeks. (tank is a 65 gal AGA with 2 corner
overflows, 5+inch DSB, 100 lbs LR, 384 watts PC 10,000k and 03 actinic,
30gal sump/refugium with "MUDD" 24/7 light on refuge, Aqua-C remora hang
on skimmer, 20+X water turnover). Multi LPS, some SPS frags, Xenia,
Ricordea and softies. 2 other fish - Purple Tang and a red headed goby.
My question is about the behavior of the female clown. Over the last
several days it has been "sweeping" the DSB from around its territory.
It has swept at least an inch of the aragonite away with its tail fin.
Does not appear to be cleaning any rock around the BTA for possible
spawning. I have been keeping SW/REEF aquariums for over 30 years.
(Built my own all glass tanks when the only available tanks were
MetaFrame). I have had clowns spawn before but never so soon after
introduction to the system and never noticed this behavior. Is this
common or is its behavior something other than pre-spawning setting up
house. <I'd go with something tied to spawning... setting up house as
you mention. Hard to imagine what else it would be, but then again fish
sometimes do things without explanation.> Thank you in advance for your
opinion. Tom <Cheers, J -- > - Maroon Clown
Behavior, Follow-up - Thanks for the quick reply. <My pleasure.>
Quick follow-up question. So far the clown has "swept" away the
aragonite down 3" in depth. Is there any major harm being done to the
DSB? <Major? No... is there some affect, yes.> Total depth of DSB is 5-6
inches. Also I noticed the deeper layers to be solidified in spots. Is
this normal? <Hmm... depends on what is hardening the sand - in my own
sump, I have a mysterious sponge-like growth that is aggregating the
sand in places... appears solid but can be broken apart. In some systems
where calcium and alkalinity are out of balance or too high the sand bed
can solidify... essentially turning into calcium-based rock. A careful
examination of your calcium/alkalinity and the nature of clumps should
reveal the source.> Thanks. Tom <Cheers, J -- >
Clownfish and anemones Hello, <Howdy!> a few questions could you
please answer I have just got a bubble tip anemone and a pair of
maroon clowns one is about 9 cm long and the other is only 2-3 cm long I
was wondering will they mate if so then when?<They probably will, I
couldn't tell you when as there are many factors that effect this from
the fish themselves to their environment.> What factors are they?
<<The size of fish, tankmates, size of tank, how long they have been
together, water quality, if they have a anemone or not...>> The
bubble tip anemone keeps moving around, is it normal what is wrong, also
how can I stop it from moving? <Do you have enough lighting? If so just
let him be and he will find a place that he likes.> I have 2 actinics
and 2 daylights is that enough and is that alright? <<What size of
tank do have, what kind of bulbs and what wattage?>> I have a 5 ft tank
and 4 ft lighting with 2 40w actinics aqua coral and 2 36w
daylight Sylvania <This is not nearly enough lighting for these guys.
You will either need to return him or invest in some more lighting.
Again you can find tons of info at our site mentioned below.> Should
the anemone be on rocks or is it ok for it to be on sand? They
usually climb up onto your rockwork. Cody> The anemone is half on a rock
and half on sand, is that ok? <<Sure. You can also find lots of info
on our website: www.wetwebmedia.com.>> Is there a problem if the
anemone doesn't stop wandering?<It is probably still wandering because
of the shortage in lighting. This guys needs to be moved into a more
suitable environment quick or his needs to be improved upon. In the
future please research all purchases before you buy them and don't just
listen to the fish stores advice as unfortunately many are just out
there to make money and don't care about the animals they handle or are
not very well educated. Cody>
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