Re: Sump Setup?  12/13/06
Good Day to you Tim.
<And to you!>
Well I am not Norwegian by birth I Have only been in the country for 5 years. I live in Horten, which is about an hour and a  half south of Oslo.
Well the main reason that I want to get a sump up and going is to work at getting rid of nitrates.
I have heard a lot about this miracle mud that people use in a sump, (more horror stories than anything else) is there any other filters, reactors, or such like that I should get? or that you can recommend?
<The miracle mud works by encouraging the growth of macro algae in the sump. You can grow macro algae in your tank for nitrate export without the use of miracle mud which, as you note, is the subject of much debate. You should also consider the use of a DSB - much info on this on the website - as a means of reducing your nitrates. Lastly, you could consider purchasing a sulphur (or other type of) denitrator to reduce your nitrate problems. An excellent denitrator is produced by Korallin, though it is by no means cheap. I would suggest you use the tank you previously suggested with a strong 24hr light, have a DSB in this sump and grow macroalgae. This is the most natural and best way of eliminating nitrate problems and, depending on the what is in your main tank, may also act as a beneficial refugium where you can grow food for tangs or copepods for fish such as the mandarin dragonet. Any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Hilsen, Tim>
Tusen Hjertlig takk for hjelpen Tim
Clinton

High Nitrate Follow Up
Hi guys, <Hello! Ryan Bowen with you>
I mailed you a while back about 40+ppm nitrate in my 72g reef.  Here's an update and a few more questions.
<Great>
* You cited overfeeding (yellow tang and percula).  I've cut back to 2" square of algae and 1/4 square of frozen brine shrimp every 3-4 days.  I can keep 20-40ppm nitrate (Aquarium Pharm kit-hard to differentiate colors at levels this high), but it seems like I'm starving them! (although they both look healthy, tang is just a little pale).
<This is a healthy amount!  You may want to offer live macro algae as a supplement for the Tang's color.  (Tang Heaven from http:// www.ipsf.com works well.  20ppm nitrate is still pretty high for a reef, so keep working at it.)
* I also went from 15W NO to 65W PC half-and-half 24/7 over the refugium.  A Caulerpa strand I bought (stem with long narrow "leaves" extending perpendicularly) grows under this light, but only so much, then the leaves basically disintegrate.  I've read algae can go into shock easily and I have some Cyano growing in the fuge and on the Caulerpa.  Is this the cause the die back? <Likely.  Time, nutrient control will help.  You may want to look for other types of macroalgae as well- many dislike Caulerpa.  See FAQs for reference.>
* Lastly, I added a 5" DSB (170lbs Southdown + 30lbs Gulf View LS) 6 weeks ago.  Reading that you needed some sifting to avoid H2S, I put a 3" sifting star in after 2 weeks, but now I'm wondering if he's depleted the LS. <Highly possible> I haven't noticed the DSB "attacking" the nitrate, or too many bubbles coming up from it. <It's early> Is the star too much for a 72? <Yes, certainly at this age> Should I pull him and add nothing, a cucumber, more hermits (have about 10 now)? OR, has it not been long enough? <Pull him, reconsider in 6 months.>
Oh yeah, I also ID'd the turkey wing bivalve from your site.  Several came on my last LR shipment.  Thanks again for all of your help by mail and online content, Jason. <Cool hitchhiker!  Have a great new year! Ryan>

Plants for nitrate reduction
Hello to whomever may be answering questions tonight! I just have a couple of simple questions. I'm trying to reduce nitrates. I've been reading the faq's on your site, and noticed that plants have the ability to lower nitrate levels. Could you please recommend a few? 
<Mmm, Halimeda, Caulerpa species grow best/fastest for the purpose in hobbyist systems>
Would these plants take over my tank or make burrowing difficult for my sting-ray? 
<Yes>
If so, I'll just put them in the sump, but I was thinking that the tangs might like to graze upon whatever plants were introduced to their home. Thanks for your help, you guys rule (: Ro
<These are actually not plants, but algae/thallophytes... you can look up true/vascular plants, use them... or both in a sump/refugium... a good step for many purposes. Bob Fenner>

Re: New Problem
<< Your nitrates are what? About 80ppm? And you have to add something to adjust pH? It sounds like your water chemistry is directly related to the Tangs stress... I would review your set-up and maintenance, and work out a plan where the nitrates are reduced to ten or less ppm, and your pH stays stable without having to add buffer...> >>
Bob, 
I guess my next question would be How?? 
I change 10-15 gallon every other week - I clean the Tide Pool, Pumps, hoses, I vacuum the bottom of the tank. I clean the skimmer cup twice a week, I did not in the past clean the rest of the skimmer because the aquarium shop here said not to, I have now done that. 
I use RO water when making new saltwater, I have a powerhead running in the reserve water and a heater. 
I don't think I overfeed the fish, I feed one cube of bloodworms, 1/2 cube of Formula One, 1/2 cube of Pygmy Angel food, a small piece of seaweed for the tangs. I have 75 gallon tank with 3 green Chromis, 1 baby Blue Tang, 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Coral Beauty, 1 Flame Angel, 2 sleeper gobies, 3 shrimps, 1 clam and 2 anemones. I also have at least 60 pounds of rock and 60 pounds of sand. 
I have noticed that the reserve water has very low PH so prior to doing a water change I always add buffer so as to not shock the fish. Could this be caused by the salt mix? 
<To a large extent yes>
I use Coralife Salt, if there is something better that you would recommend let me know because I have to order salt. 
<Yes, this is actually a poor product... inconsistent, often with varying amounts of alkalinity, calcium... I'd switch to Instant Ocean...>
Other than the anaerobic media which is on order, what else would you suggest?
<Many possibilities: macro-algae, a Caulerpa algae filter, mud-filter, reverse daylight photoperiod system in a sump... Many ideas covered in various articles here: Home Page >
One note to mention, most of the fish in tank is less than 4 inches, only the Yellow tang is larger.
You didn't say whether I should leave the algae on the back of the tank or remove it - it does appear to be green algae and the fish do graze on it.
<I definitely would leave it!>
Thanks, again, Annette
>>
<You're welcome. Bob Fenner>

Fish and invert tank
Dear Bob: I have a 90-gal. salt water tank with a 110 BioWheel hanging off back and an undergravel filter covered with crushed coral. The water falls through 3 holes in the bottom and is pumped back in by a little giant. The lighting is a 47" JBJ Formosa power compact. There's also an oldish skimmer and a power head for circulation. Livestock: 2 clown fish, 1 med yellow tang, 1 med Sailfin tang, 1 small blue tang, 1 large Naso tang, 1 blenny and 1 shrimp; 5 pieces of live rock, 1 star polyp, 1 devil's hand coral, 1 brain coral and 2 anemones. Here's the problem: Changing 20 gals of water every couple of weeks with RO water, and feeding the fish every other day, I'm still getting nitrate levels between .20 -.40 
<Probably 20 to 40 ppm, eh?>
I like having fish and invertebrates together, but its extremely high maintenance. And I'm still getting a light covering of algae on the glass unless I clean every day. Do you have any suggestions on ways to keep nitrates downs or make the system a little less maintenance intensive? Thanks. 
>>
<All sorts... the best approaches involve a multi-prong attack at growing macro-algae in the main tank or attached sump/refugium, to limit nutrient availability, produce chemical antagonists to the undesired algae forms, AND spiffing up skimming (like with a larger, more efficient (like needle-wheel technology) fractionator, AND the periodic use (monthly) of activated carbon to remove dissolved organics that aid the problem algae...
Please take the good read of the materials placed here: Home Page on these ideas. There's a bunch, and, thanks for asking.
Bob Fenner

Nitrates
bob thank you for taking my email! I just brought your book conscientious marine aquarist.
<Sure you will enjoy, benefit from it>
my problem is I have a 55 gal tank, using a emperor 400 filter using standard filter no extra carbon), a sea clone skimmer18 watt uv ster., and 2 03 power heads, 60 lbs of live rock, 60 lbs of live sand, using reef crystal mix and or water. my tank is about 6 mos. old, water changes 20% weekly. and RO top off.
I have 1 naso,1 yellow tang,1 purple tang,1 dragon goby, 2 cardinals, 2 damsels, 35 shrimp,
<thirty five? I'll assume either three or five>
2 starfish, 3 emeralds, 20 blue legged hermits and 20 snails, 3 anemones,
<What types? Could be trouble...>
1 leather, 2 corals. I feed once a day lifeline for the tangs and formula 2 for the others. I do not use phytoplankton or should I?
<I would... and be carefully observing this mix... a lot of life for a fifty five gallon tank...>
I use reef complete for my calcium levels. no matter what I do I can not get my nitrates down, there running 80+ and very consistent. no matter if I do more water changes or what , tried a nitrate sorb in my filter with no change, I added another filter which is a Rena to help with the standard carbon sponge and fiber media. with no help! my amm. 0:, nitrites 0:, ph 8.2:, calcium 400:, phosphates .1:, I'm getting good skimming from my skimmer and clean the canister once a day and the tube once a week change my filter on my emperor every 2 weeks and clean the Rena once a week. I need help!!!!!!!! should I take out the bio wheels in the emperor?
<Maybe... but I wouldn't... you need their help, steady, back-up nitrification here... There is much more you can/should do...>
I just bought a 29 gal tank I was going to make a sump out of it with no bio balls putting my skimmer down there and use some live sand bed with plants so the water can run across and then return to tank is that good think it will help?
<Of a certainty yes... this is a very good plan.>
I'm at the last line now this is my goal in life to reduce my nitrates, LOL I'm at my wits end and really don't no what to do next.
thank you , Gary Williams
Abington, Va.
<Do read over the "Nitrates FAQs" posted on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com, as well as "Algal Filtration FAQs" there... You're well on your way... and seem to have a good and growing grasp of what you might do here. Bob Fenner>

What (Fish) next?
Thank you in advance for answering my (and many others') questions...
<You're welcome>
Tank Info: 55 Gallon Fish only, 45lbs live rock, 20 lbs. live sand (1/2 inch), CPR BakPak 2R skimmer, RIO 1400 and 800 pumps for circulation, JBJ Venice JD1 lighting (combo 10,000K and Actinic).
Inhabitants: 2" Canthigaster Valentini, 1" Rhinecanthus aculeatus, 1" Premnas biaculeatus, 3" Genicanthus melanospilos and 1.5" Centropyge loricula
<Yikes... this system is going to be getting tight, psychologically and physiologically... soon if not now!>
I'm kind of in a position where I'm done adding fish (don't want to overcrowd, unless you think I can squeeze in a small Niger Trigger or Blue Throat Trigger) and want to "enhance" the tank.
<No more fish life... you already will have too much>
I was thinking along the lines of constructing a basic sump for added water volume and increased water quality. My current setup is running perfectly, with the nitrates levels rising to 10-15 ppm as it nears time for a water change. I would like to add "something" to automate the reduction of nitrates in my system.
<Hmm, this sounds good>
Will the addition of macro algae (which do you prefer) lower my nitrates?
<Decidedly yes>
If so, where should this macro algae go? Into a sump/refugium?
<And in your main system... yes, where your livestock will eat a good part of it>
I don't really mind the CPR BakPak hanging off the main tank, so a sump for the purposes of removing my protein skimmer/heater to an unseen sump is not too important for me. I was thinking I could leave the CPR where it is on the main tank, add a CPR overflow to my main tank, send water down to my refugium where the macro algae will be housed, then send up the
"nitrate-free" <let's settle on 'nitrate-lessened'> water via a RIO 800 back to the main system. What type of
lighting is required? Will this really lower my nitrate?
<A small compact fluorescent is best... Home Depot, Lowe's or pet fish sourced... and yes>
What other "stuff" do I need in my refugium? Live sand? Live rock? Mud?
<Rock is best... and not to clean out too much, too often>
Thanks again. Since I'm mostly done setting up and stocking the tank, I'm looking for new projects to keep my busy... I love this hobby.
<Me too. Be chatting. Bob Fenner, www.WetWebMedia.com>
- Eugene M. Lee

Success (reducing nitrates)
Bob, after continual trate problems in my reef (with a plenum 60ppm, and a Turboflotor skimmer), I added a refugium several weeks ago. I am very pleased that the trates have dropped to 30ppm w/out water changes. Can I expect this to lower into invertebrate safe ranges? 
<Yes>
Also, I have a 160 with way too high trates, and would like to add a refugium, however, the tank is coppered (I am trying to bring it down now). Is Caulerpa copper tolerant at all?
<To an extent will take the copper out of the water... more yes than maybe>
I am doing a 40 gal water change, Chemi pure, and a product by SeaChem that absorbs copper. I would really like to get these trates into the 20 (FOWLR). Once again, thanks a million, I have some very happy corals because of your book and web site!!
tom
<My friend, your successes thrill me. Bob Fenner>